Chapter XX: Section VI

The river that was seen by Mr. Park on his journey to Tombuctoo, flows southward from Haussa. It waters Nyffé and Cabi, where it is called Julbi; and runs eastward into the district of Burnu, where it takes the name of Zad, which means the great water; in some parts of Haussa, it is called Gaora, or the great water.

All the Burnuans and Haussans whom I questioned about the distant regions of this river, agreed in telling me, “that it ran through the land of Majies, (_i. e._ Heathens;) by Sennaar: others affirmed that it passes Darfoor, in its course eastward, and flows to Cairo, being one stream with the Egyptian Nile.”

A native of Egypt from Osuit, who had travelled several times to Darfoor, and southward from that place to collect slaves, and lately returned through Wadey, Fiddri, and Begarmé, to Fezzan, informed me, that the river called _Bah-el-Abiad_, is this river. I could get no intelligence about a great inland lake, although I made every possible inquiry.

Besides these two great rivers here described, there are seven small streams in Haussa, which fall into the Julbi near Berva. Northward from Burnu, there is a river which disappears among the mountains, and is said to rush into the earth. All these rivers are very low in the dry season, and swell amazingly during the rainy season. The breadth of the Zad was given me for one mile, (others said two); but in the rainy season, the breadth is said to be a day’s journey, (_i. e._ eight hours). The Budumas always keep themselves in the middle of this stream; they are a very savage, heathenish nation.

These few informations are the best that I have been able to collect, on the interior of Africa. In this relation, I pass over men with tails, without necks, and without hair, without land, and living only on the great sea. It would be an easy matter for me to write you many letters on the interior state of Africa; but I might thereby convey information inaccurate or untrue. Besides, am I not returning to England? and if I do return, should I not reserve something new and interesting to plead my excuse for returning?

If I do not perish in my undertaking, I hope in five years, I shall be able to make the Society better acquainted with the people, of whom I have given this short description.

(Signed) FREDERICK HORNEMAN.

1798.

_Extracts from a Letter accompanying the above Informations, dated
Tripoly, 19th of August, 1799._

“After a journey of eleven days from Siwah, four of which we travelled eighteen hours each day, through a desert, we arrived at Augila, a small miserable town belonging to Tripoly; and after a journey of sixteen days more, we reached Temissa, the first village of Fezzan. Seven of these sixteen days, I was passing a black rocky desert, certainly the worst of all routes in the world; and which has doubtless been formed by some volcanic revolution. It is called Harutsch, and extend very far to the south-west.

“From Temissa, I came by way of Zuila, Tuila, and Tragan, to Mourzouk, (which is also called Fezzan, and by the people of Burnu, _Zela_). Mourzouk is situated in 25° 54′ 15″ north latitude.

“With regard to the interior of Africa, I have made all the inquiries possible, and will send you the result of them by the first opportunities. Accept for the present the following notices on that subject.

“The river you call Niger—in Soudan, _Gulbi_, or _Gaora_; in Burnu, _Zad_; is a very large river, into which fall more than twelve other rivers. It comes from Tombuctoo, as I am told, runs to the south of Haussa (or Soudan), in the empire of Burnu; here it takes a more southern direction, and falls (at least I could not find a single man who said to the contrary), south of Darfoor into the Nile. There is another river coming from Darfoor, which passes by Wadey and Metko, and terminates in a large lake called _Fiddri_, in a kingdom called by the inhabitants Fiddri; by the people to the east of them, _Cougu_; and by those on the west, _Lussi_. The lake of Fiddri is four days in circumference, but in the time of the rains much more extensive, inundating the surrounding country, which, after the waters are withdrawn, is sown and cultivated.

“Near to _Mesna_, the capital of Bergamé, is another large river; but it is considerable only in the rainy season. Bahr of Gazelles, or _Wad-el-Gazelles_, is not a river, but a long and fertile valley, inhabited by Nomadian Tibbo, whose houses are made of skins.

“_Burnu_ is the most powerful kingdom in the interior of Africa. The next to it is the sultan of _Asben_, who resides at Agades. The kings of the countries of which Haussa consists, all pay tribute to Burnu; these are _Kashna_, _Daura_, _Keeno_, _Sofau_, _Noro_, _Nyffé_, _Gaauri_, _Cabi_, _Guber_, (Zanfara belongs to Guber.) Kashna pays every year 100 slaves, &c. Some of them pay to Burnu and Asben. The king of Asben with the greatest part of his nation are Tuaricks of the tribe _Kolluvi_. Many of the Tuaricks near to Tombuctoo, are white; and another tribe near to Burnu, are also white, like the Arabs of the northern coast of Africa.

“Begarmé pays tribute to Burnu; _Ungura_, (doubtless _Wangara_, Leo. Afr.) and _Cougu_, are governed by officers of that sultan.

“There is a general opinion of all Burnu and Fezzan people, that Burnu and Fezzan, according to our manner of speaking, lie under the same meridian. Burnu is distant from Kashna 15 days, by travelling very slow 20 fisturnees, or about 330 English miles. Fiddri from Burnu E by N 25 days. The people of Fiddri have no salt in their country, but what they prepare from straw ashes.

“A great part of the people of _Wadey_, together with their king, are Arabs.

“In the direction of south by west from Augila, distant ten days, or about 200 miles, are the _Febabo_, and some days more to the south the _Birgu_, nations of the Tibbo, whose country is very fine and fertile: they are said to be Pagans. It is singular, that the people of Augila, in speaking of these tribes, make much the same comparison which Herodotus (Melpom. c. 183.) does, when speaking of the Ethiopian _Troglodytæ_, hunted by the Garamantes, ‘that their language is like the whistling of birds.’

“The most interesting nation of Africa, is the _Tuarick_. (Leo Afr. calls them _Terga_, طرجي.) They are in possession of all the country between Fezzan, Gadames, the empire of Morocco, Tombuctoo, Soudan, Burnu, and the country of the Tibbo. They are divided into several nations, of which the _Kolluvi_ in Asben, and the _Hagara_ near to Fezzan, are the chief.

“Christians and tailed men, I suppose, never will be found in the interior of Africa. The Mahometans call _Nazari_ (which is properly the name for Christians) not the Christians only, but also every other people who are not of their religion. Of tailed men I heard no accounts, except from one person, (but not a _testis fide dignissimus_,) who placed them ten days south of Kano; he called them _Yem Yem_, and said that they were cannibals. In ten months I shall be near to that direction.

“I shall now, Sir, conclude this letter, which I hope will find you in good health. I am, &c. &c.

“FREDERICK HORNEMAN.”

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 13: I have given further particulars on this subject in the account of my journey, from Cairo to Fezzan.]

* * * * *

GEOGRAPHICAL ILLUSTRATIONS
OF
MR. HORNEMAN’S ROUTE;
AND
ADDITIONS TO THE GENERAL GEOGRAPHY
OF AFRICA.
BY
MAJOR RENNELL.

* * * * *

CONSTRUCTION
OF THE
GEOGRAPHY OF MR. HORNEMAN’S EXPEDITION
IN AFRICA.

* * * * *

=CHAPTER I.=

* * * * *

In the discussion of the construction of this Geography, I shall confine myself, as much as possible, to general statements; reserving more particular details to a future time, when more materials may arrive: for it is to be observed that although Mr. Horneman has transmitted much valuable matter, yet that it is not altogether of the kind required for the construction of mathematical geography. Fortunately, however, the observations of Mr. Browne and others, enable me to derive more advantage from those of Mr. Horneman, than could have been obtained from them, alone.

The geographical positions of Cairo, Alexandria, and Fezzan, have undergone some small change in the present maps,[14] in consequence of recent, and it may be supposed, more accurate information. Cairo is placed 2 min. and Alexandria 13, more to the west, in consequence of the French observations: and Mourzouk, the capital of Fezzan, 39 G. miles more to the south-east, on a general result of the authorities; amongst which Mr. Horneman’s is allowed its due weight. Some other trifling changes have been made, in the positions of Siwah, and of El Bareton, or _Parætonium_: but none of them are more than shades of difference, in respect of the geography at large.

The chief alteration is that of Mourzouk, which, by the former accounts, was said to lie _directly south_ from Mesurata: and this alteration is grounded on the line of distance of Mr. Horneman, which does not allow of so great an interval between Egypt and Fezzan, as that position requires, by nearly 25 G. miles; which after all, is no great proportion, in more than 800. It is conceived that Mr. Horneman’s _time_, although kept in a coarse way, ought still to be preferred to the mere report of the bearing from Mesurata, on a distance of seventeen or eighteen journies.

I shall begin by tracing in detail the route of Mr. Horneman from Egypt to Fezzan, dividing it into four parts: 1. From Cairo to Siwah: 2. Siwah to Augila: 3. Augila to Fezzan: and 4. Remarks on the position of Mourzouk.

I. _Cairo to Siwah._

Mr. Horneman’s time may be taken at _about_ 123 hours,[15] which at 2,05 G. miles, the ordinary caravan rate, reduced to direct distance, is equal to 252 G. miles. If taken at 2½ B. miles per hour, which is the ordinary road distance, with an allowance of ¹⁄₂₀ for inflexions, (the Desert routes are remarkably straight,) we have 255. Now, Mr. Browne’s route, along the sea coast from Alexandria, and thence inland from the neighbourhood of _Parætonium_, gives about 259½, or 6½ more than the lowest of these calculations; 4½ more than the highest. Mr. Browne’s rout lay first along the coast, 75½ hours; from whence he made a course of about S 19 W (true) 62¼ hours, to Siwah, in the parallel of 29° 12′ by observation. Considering the sinuosities of the coast, which he kept to, almost the whole way, perhaps no more than 144, or 145 G. miles, ought to be allowed in direct distance.

His station on the coast, at about 20 miles east of Parætonium, should be in lat. 31° 7′, according to M. D’Anville; so that the bearing of S 19 W cuts the parallel of Siwah, in longitude 26° 24′: and my former position of it, in the Geography of Herodotus, p. 574, is 26° 21′ 30″. And as Mr. Horneman does not profess to be perfectly accurate in his account of the time, (doubtless because he had lost his papers) I shall adopt the position given by Mr. Browne; but which differs, as has been shewn, only 4½ miles from the other.

It is proper to be remarked, that the people of Siwah, report the distance of Cairo, from that place, to be twelve journies only: but it becomes necessary to inquire what kind of journies these are, in order to turn this, and other reports of the same kind to use. These journies then, are meant for those of light travellers, going few in number together; and not of caravans, where, amongst a number of camels, there must of course be some of slow pace, (to which the whole caravan must, of necessity, conform,) not to mention the increased number of delays by accidents. The people of Siwah reported the length of the following journies, which are in point:

Siwah to Charje, in the Greater Oasis 12 days.
Derna 14
Faiume (through the Lesser Oasis) 12
Cairo 12

A mean of these, gives about 20,6 per day; the journies to Charje and Faiume giving 19⅔, the others 21½.[16] As Siwah lies directly between Derna and the Greater Oasis, we have one line of 26 days, pretty satisfactorily determined in point of distance, and here the result is 20,6 also. Twelve such days would give only 247, of course, for the distance between Cairo and Siwah: so that a rate of 21½ is required. Pliny, lib. v. c. 9, reports twelve journies between Memphis and Ammon, requiring a rate of 21 per day.

There is yet another statement of the distance, and that is, fifteen ordinary _caravan_ journies, taken at 16¼ or 16½. The result is 247½; about equal to the 12 days of light travelling.

Possibly, I have taken the distance rather too high, at 259½; but I know not how to do away Mr. Browne’s line from the neighbourhood of Parætonium, considering that Mr. Horneman must have given _his_ time from recollection. At all events, Siwah cannot be many miles out, in its longitude; but whilst the longitudes of the places on the sea coast remain in a state of uncertainty, one is not likely to get nearer the truth.

Mr. Browne appears to have been 17 days from his station in lat. 28° 40′, and not far to the SW of Siwah, to Alexandria. A rate of 15⅓ miles is the result; but Mr. Browne being exceedingly ill, the whole way, it is most probable that his attendants relaxed in their speed.

II. _Siwah to Augila._

Mr. Horneman’s time from Siwah to Augila is 87½ hours,[17] which, at 2,05 G. miles, give 179,35: but taken on the road distance at 2½ B. miles, as before, 181½. Taken on Horneman’s 11 _mean_ days, at 16½, it is also 181½. The Arabian geographers reckon it 10 days, implied of 19 G. miles each, equal to 190. Herodotus also allows 10 days between Ammon and Augila.

It is certain, that Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS. allow 13 days by the route of Gegabib (the Valley of Dates), which, by Mr. Browne’s information, lies to the NW of Siwah, whilst the ordinary route, by Schiacha, leads by the west; but we can hardly suppose that the northern road is two days farther about than the other. Mr. Horneman, it is true, lost his papers at Schiacha, and may not have recollected the exact account of time during the three first days, to that place. I have accordingly allowed 186, as a mean between Mr. Horneman and Edrisi.

Mr. Horneman could not obtain a satisfactory account of the distance between Augila and Bengasi, on the sea coast. Edrisi allows 10 days from Barca; but these, reckoned at 19 each, meet the line from Siwah, in 30° 7′, which gives a bearing of W 18° N from the latter; whereas it seems to be the universal opinion, that they lie nearly in the same parallel.[18]

Delisle and D’Anville go much beyond Edrisi’s distance. The latter allows 215 from Barca, which is very probable: and he may perhaps have allowed it from the relations of modern travellers. I have accordingly adopted it; and it meets the line of 186 from Siwah, in lat. 29° 30′, lon. 22° 50′. In this position it bears about W ½ N from Siwah.

Ptolemy allows 3° 16′ diff. lat. between Derna (_Darnis_) and Augila, which would place the latter, on our Map, in 29½°. He also makes the line of bearing between Ammon and Augila to be nearly parallel to the sea coast, between Parætonium and Derna; and it is certain, although Ptolemy thought otherwise, that the coast lies much to the north of west.

It may be that the longitudes of the places on the coast of Barca, are too far to the west, in M. D’Anville’s Maps. Lucas appears to reckon Augila 11 days only, from Bengasi.

III. _Augila to Fezzan._

From Augila to Fezzan, Mr. Horneman’s time is not kept regularly in hours, the whole way; owing, perhaps, to the excessive fatigues he underwent in the _Harutsch_ or _Black Desert_, in which _whole days_ only, are given; but these were exceedingly long, being usually from morning till night.

All that could be done, was, to reduce these particular days to hours, and add them to the _enumerated_ hours in the Journal; whence there results a total of 195 to 196 hours, at the highest calculation: and these, with proper deductions for the badness of the paths, in the Harutsch, may be taken at 395 G. miles in direct distance.[19]

M. Delisle states the distance at about 405, or 10 more than the above result. He probably collected it from the Journals of modern travellers, as the Arabian geographers allow no less than twenty of their journies between Augila and Zuila, which place is about 60 G. miles short of Mourzouk.

I shall here set forth the reports of divers persons, respecting the distance between Cairo and Fezzan; which has been taken above, chiefly on the report of Mr. Horneman: and, when reduced to a straight line comes out 829 G. miles.

Messrs. Browne and Ledyard state the distance to be fifty caravan days; which at 16½, give 825 G. miles.

Edrisi allows forty journies, between Cairo and _Tamest_ (Temissa). These, at 19 each, are equal to 760 G. miles: to which, if 73 are added, as Horneman allows, from Temissa to Mourzouk, the total is 833. This route leads through Bahnasa, in the Lesser Oasis; and, by circumstances, near Siwah also; as a river occurs at eight days from Bahnasa. Thence it goes to the south of Augila, and by _Seluban_, which may be intended for the Plain of Sultin.[20]

It is obvious, that if Augila should lie yet more to the south, or nearer in a line between Cairo and Fezzan, this would lengthen the given line of distance; and that by 10 or 12 miles.

The comparison of the different authorities, then, is as follows:

By Horneman, 829 }
} mean 827
By Browne and Ledyard, 825 }

By Edrisi, (direct) 833

By Edrisi and Abulfeda, reckoned from Siwah
only, and thence through Augila and Zala 877

By the bearing and distance from Mesurata 854[21]

Thus Horneman’s account falls short of the interval between Cairo and Mourzouk, when the latter is placed in reference to Mesurata, by 25 miles only; and the reported caravan distance falls only four short of Horneman’s. The reports of the Arabian geographers ought not to be put in competition with either.

IV. _Respecting the Position of Mourzouk, Capital of Fezzan._

Mr. Horneman in his Journal transmitted from Tripoly, states the latitude of Mourzouk, by observation, to be 25° 54′ 15″; a parallel so different from the result of the other authorities, that it becomes necessary to examine those authorities, minutely. The reported observation, differs nearly two degrees from the parallel assigned it in the Proceedings of the Association printed in 1798. Without attempting to account for so great an (apparent) error, I shall proceed to adduce the authorities for its parallel, as assumed in the present map.

1. Mr. Beaufoy, from the information of certain Tripoline merchants, has given 17½ journies of the caravan, in a direct south bearing, from Mesurata on the sea coast.[22] These journies are given at 8 hours, or 20 British miles per day: and I allowed for them 15 geographical miles, in direct distance; but I shall now, finding by experience that the paths in the Desert are generally very straight, allow 16½; whence the 17½ days will be found to produce 288¾, or say 289 G. miles. If these miles were entirely difference of latitude, Mourzouk would not be lower than 27° 22′ 2″, as Mesurata is said to lie in 32° 10′.

2. Another authority adduced by the same gentleman, allows 23 days from Tripoly, by the way of Gwarian and Sockna, which turns out much the same as the former result. The distance from Tripoly to Fezzan, through Mesurata, is 24½ days; consequently that by Sockna, is the shortest, although now generally disused, on account of its being unsafe.[23]

The intersection of the two lines of distance from Augila and Mesurata; that is, 395 G. miles from the former, and 289 from the latter, place Mourzouk in latitude 27° 23′; and at 30 G. miles east of the meridian of Mesurata. Consequently, the bearing will be about S. ½ E, instead of south, as reported.

3. Edrisi says, that the distance from _Sort_ to Zuila, is nine journies, which, on his scale of 19 per day, are equal to 171 G. miles: and Abulfeda says that they lie N. and S. from each other. Zuila is a point in Horneman’s route, about 60 G. miles to the E by N or ENE of Mourzouk: and Sort, according to M. D’Anville, lies in about 30° 28′. Consequently, Zuila, if in the same meridian, should be in latitude 27° 37′, or 14 min. to the N. of Mourzouk. By the construction, Zuila bears about S 7° W from Sort, which, in respect of the difference of latitude, is much the same thing: and hence, Mourzouk ought not to be to the south of 27° 23′, or thereabouts.

4. Ledyard was told, that Augila lay _west_ from Siwah; and Wadan, (or Zala,) in the way to Fezzan, WSW from Augila. Horneman gives much the same idea; saying that they went W by S from Augila, at setting out. Unfortunately, Mr. Horneman omits to state the distance between Fezzan and Tripoly, although he travelled it.

5. _Zala_, (called also _Wadan_,[24]) is said by Edrisi, page 40, to be nine days SE from Sort; and midway between Augila and Zuila; that is ten days from both.[25] A glance at the map will shew how utterly improbable it is, that Mourzouk should be below the parallel of 26°, considering its relative situation to Wadan and Zuila.

Lastly, if it be admitted that Fezzan is the country of the _Garamantes_, (and I know not where else to look for it, according to the ancient descriptions,) then, its distance from the sea coast, as stated by Strabo, p. 835, at nine or ten days journey, agrees exactly, if reckoned to _Garama_, the ancient capital. Pliny confirms it strongly, by placing the Garamantes beyond the _Mons Ater_, (of which more, under the article _Harutsch_,) which will be proved clearly to mean the rocky Desert of _Souda_, between Fezzan and Mesurata.

It should be remarked, that this alteration in the position of Mourzouk, which is about 39 miles to the SE of its position in the map of 1798, does not, in any material degree, affect the interval of space between it and Tombuctoo.[26]

=CHAPTER II.=

* * * * *

_General Remarks on the Countries, in the Line of Mr. Horneman’s
Route._

I shall next proceed to offer some geographical, and other, remarks, on certain of the subjects that present themselves in and about the line of Mr. Horneman’s route; as, 1. The _Bahr-bela-ma_, and _Valley of Mogara_. 2. _Siwah_. 3. The _Lesser Oasis_. 4. The _Valleys_ of _Schiacha_ and _Gegabib_. 5. _Augila_. 6. The _Harutsch_. 7. _Fezzan_ and _Gadamis_.

I. _The Bahr-bela-ma, and Valley of Mogara._

The term _Bahr_ is well known to signify (in Arabic) an expanse of water, whether _sea_, _lake_, or _river_: and _Bahr-bela-ma_, a hollow space that is supposed to have contained them: in other words, the sea, lake, or river, _without water_. In its application to the present subject, it has been understood by some great authorities, to be the ancient bed of a river; and that river, the Nile of Egypt; which they suppose to have quitted its present course, at Benjusef, and, passing through the province of Faiume, and the lake Kairun, entered the sea at the Gulf of the Arabs. Having already given an opinion on this subject, I shall say no more concerning it in this place, than that it is by no means weakened by any thing that has appeared since: that opinion was, “that in _ancient times_ the bed of the Nile lay lower than the province of Faiume:” and it is certain, that the gap, or outlet at Sakkara, is _still_ above the level of the Nile.

Mr. Horneman’s observations, added to those of General Andreossy, and of Mr. Browne, throw some further light on the course of the _hollow_ bed, or channel in question.

It appears that the General, as well as Mr. Browne,[27] came to the Natron Valley at about 32 G. miles to the westward of Terané: and that the General also found, adjacent to it, on the west, separated only by a narrow ridge, a second and larger valley, which the Arabs name _Bahr-bela-ma_; and also _Bahr-el-farigh_, which signifies the _empty_ river. These he found to run parallel to each other, in a direction of about NNW ½ W and SSE ½ E, for about 30 miles; and without any appearance of termination, either way. The Natron Valley, he reckons 2½ French leagues, or about 6½ G. miles, in breadth; the other, 3 leagues, or 7¾ such miles; or, both together, from one extreme to the other, more than 14¼. See the _Mémoires_, p. 239, 240, and also the map.

Mr. Horneman, in his way westward from Cairo, passed the Natron Valley, at the distance of about 40 G. miles from Cairo; and, by circumstances, not more than 9 or 10 from the extreme southern part seen by General Andreossy. At the distance of about 8 miles from the Natron Valley he _descended_, and came to what he calls the foot of a _sand hill_; but it being _dark_, he could not form any idea of the place itself, or of the adjacent country: he however observes, that it will be proper for future travellers to look in this place, for the _course_ of the _Bahr-bela-ma_: doubtless, because he found a deep and capacious hollow; but concerning which, he gives no farther intimation. Adverting, therefore, to the description of General Andreossy, I regard the _sand hill_ rather as the _ridge_ that separates the two valleys or hollows, than as the thing Mr. Horneman took it for. He says, that they _descended_ the sand hill, in _indescribable_ disorder;[28] which seems to imply a _long_, as well as a _steep_ descent: and, leaving the place, before it was light enough to form a judgment of the nature of it, he only directs the attention of others to it: surely, because it was a hollow tract.

It may be allowed, therefore, that the Bahr-bela-ma and Natron Valleys extend 40 or more G. miles, pointing northward to the Lake Mareotis, or to the Gulf of the Arabs; and on the other hand, towards the quarter of the lake of Kairun; from whence they seem to be less than 30 miles distant.

The four hours of travelling, between the station at the Natron Valley, and the foot of the sand hill, does not ill agree with the ground. The breadth of the Natron Valley, 6½ G. miles, is, reckoning the ascent on the west, equal to 3¼ hours travelling; and General Andreossy says, that he was 40 minutes in descending the slope, to the bottom of the Bahr-bela-ma. (Mem. p. 240.) Here then we have made out nearly the four hours: besides, it is not certain that the hollows may not have been crossed obliquely, by Mr. Horneman.

It appears that M. D’Anville believed the existence of, and has expressed on his map of Egypt, a hollow or valley, extending the whole way from the lake Kairun, to the neighbourhood of the Gulf of the Arabs. The French, it seems, have never had an opportunity of determining the questions; which appears extraordinary. I shall now proceed to the description of another valley, which may possibly be a branch of the Bahr-bela-ma.

_Valley of Mogara._

Mr. Horneman states, that the morning on which he left the _foot of the sand hill_, he entered the Desert which may be considered as “the natural limit of Egypt.” This Desert extends more than 150 G. miles from east to west: its extent southward, is not known, but it probably borders on the Lesser Oasis. Whether it be a part of that great sandy desert of twelve journies across, between the Greater Oasis and Siwah, Mr. Horneman had no opportunity of knowing; as he remained in uncertainty respecting the course of the _Ummesogeir_ hills, southward.

This Desert, perfectly flat, and covered with shifting sand, is bounded northward by a chain of bare calcareous hills, running nearly east and west, in the line of our traveller’s route. On the side towards the Desert, they are steep, and are bordered by a remarkable valley or hollow, known to extend from the _neighbourhood_ of the Bahr-bela-ma, to the length of a journey of seven days westward. Its breadth is from one mile, to six; it had much standing water in it, at certain seasons; but when Mr. Horneman saw it (in September 1798,) it had only some small lakes or ponds, at intervals; and in several places, tracts of marshy or swampy land, extending for several miles together. The water of the pools was bitter; but sweet water was found close to them, on digging to the depth of four to six feet. (See above, p. 10.) The caravans in this route, keep along the edge of the valley, availing themselves of its resources of water, every two or three days; but preferring the sandy path, as being best adapted to the feet of the camels.

How far the valley extends westwards, is not known to us: whether it terminates at the place where Mr. Horneman ascended the hills of Ummesogeir, (which form a continuation of the range of calcareous hills before-mentioned;) or whether it communicates with those valleys, which contain the Greater or Lesser Oasis. Be it as it will, it seems to partake of the nature of those valleys; being situated at the foot of steep calcareous hills, and below the level of the flat Desert beneath them. It is remarked, that the steep sides of all these ranges face the south or west.[29] In one particular, however, this valley of Mogara, differs very widely from those which contain the Oasis, (although it seems very much akin to that of _Schiacha_; of which more in the sequel,) in that no water springs up to the surface; to which cause we may probably attribute the absence of such tracts of land, as are denominated _Oases_. The springs indeed, appear to me, to be a characteristic feature of the Oases.

We learn a curious particular from General Andreossy, whilst speaking of the Bahr-bela-ma. He says, (Mém. sur l’Egypte, p. 246,) that the people of Terané on the Nile, transport from a valley situated three days journey beyond the Bahr-bela-ma, a species of _rushes_, which are manufactured into mats at Menouf, in the Delta. The General supposes the place in question to be a continuation of the Bahr-bela-ma, into the interior of Africa; and indeed it may well be, that the valley of Mogara is a branch of the former: separating from it, at, or near, the place where Mr. Horneman crossed it. The place alluded to by the General, may be about _Biljoradek_, and in one of the swampy tracts spoken of above: or if the three journies are meant from _Terané_, as is not impossible, that it will be about _Mogara_. At all events, we must regard this valley as the place intended by General Andreossy.

This gentleman’s description of the Bahr-bela-ma is well worthy of attention, but is too long to be inserted here. He found in it, petrified wood, of the same kind with that seen by Horneman, in the adjacent sandy Desert:[30] but both of them remark, that the wood has not any mark of a tool on it, as some have fancifully imagined, and have thence regarded the valley as an ancient bed of the Nile, deserted about the date of the foundation of Memphis.

No doubt the hollow in question very much resembles a water-course, both as to form, and from its having pebbles in it; but where is the body of fresh water that could have scooped it out, or have filled it? General Andreossy reckons it nearly nine British miles in breadth, and exceedingly deep; and the Nile does not at any time carry a body of water, equal to one mile in breadth! What the state of things was, at an earlier period of the world, we know not, but within the reach of history, the Nile appears to have been much of the same bulk, as at present.

But this is not the only difficulty. The province of Faiume, through which the supposed issue of the Nile must have been, is separated from the valley of the Nile, by a continuation of the ridge of hills that forms the western wall of Egypt; and through which, (if I understand the matter right,) the passage to the lake of Kairun, by _Illahon_ and _Hawara_, has been made by art. At all events, this canal or passage cannot be regarded as the continuation of the ancient bed of the Nile from _Upper Egypt_ into the _Bahr-bela-ma_, because of its confined dimensions: and of course, all idea of the Nile having detached a _western branch_, or thrown itself into the bed of the lake of Kairun and Bahr-bela-ma, is done away; for even admitting the continuity of these, the hollow that contains the lake, and also constitutes the province of Faiume, must be regarded as a kind of _cul de sac_ to the Bahr-bela-ma, whilst the hills by Illahon existed. And hence I took occasion to remark, elsewhere,[31] that it is possible, that the famous work of the lake Moeris, which now forms a kind of enigma amongst the learned, might have been formed by the very act of cutting through a low part of the western wall of Egypt, and letting the water into the hollow space which now contains the lake of Kairun. But had the Nile ever formed its alluvions adjacent to the Gulf of the Arabs, there would surely be some traces of them remaining, either along the shore, or in the sea itself.

It may be remarked, that there are other valleys or hollows along the course of the Nile, almost equally extensive with that of Faiume, but to whose level the Nile is not _yet_ risen. And here it may not be out of the way to repeat what has been said in another place,[32] that although the Nile in these times, when swoln, flows into the lake Kairun, yet there must have been a time, when its bed was too low to reach it: for it cannot be doubted, that its bed has been gradually rising, by deposition; a necessary effect of the protrusion of the lands of the Delta into the sea: and, of course, that it _will continue_ to rise.[33]

The progress of the moving sands of Lybia, eastward, into the Bahr-bela-ma, &c. is treated of by General Andreossy, Mem. page 247, and is also well worthy of attention. This movement appears to take place, very generally; and Mr. Horneman remarks, that in their line of course, every obstruction gives rise to a sand hill; but he more particularly remarks a smaller kind of sand hill, formed by the obstruction of the trunks of palm trees; and so high as to leave to the view, nothing more than the topmost branches.

II. _Siwah._

The geographical position of this remarkable place, considered generally, cannot now be questioned; since we possess, in addition to the information communicated by Mr. Browne, that of Mr. Horneman; both in respect of the time employed on his way thither, and of the reports of the natives, concerning its relative position to Cairo, the Oases, Faiume, and Derna: and when it is considered that these new authorities differ from the former ones, by a few minutes of longitude only.

The report of Mr. Horneman is no less favourable to the former idea, of its being the OASIS OF AMMON; and the remains of the Egyptian structure within it, those of the famed Temple of Jupiter Ammon: the honour of which original discovery is due to Mr. Browne. For, in addition to what may be deemed the _inner_ temple, Mr. Horneman has viewed the foundations indicated by Mr. Browne, in circumference some hundred paces; and even some remains of the walls themselves, of what may be supposed to have been the _including_ temple; the materials of which are probably existing in the construction of the stone houses of a town, estimated to contain a population of six to seven thousand[34] persons. We need no longer to entertain a doubt, founded on the disappearance of the materials of the temple and palace described by the ancients. Besides, on a review of the subject, so many particulars accord with the ancient descriptions; such as the dimensions, and accordance of geographical situation; the fruits, the copious fountains, fertility of soil; and finally, although a negative proof, perhaps one of the strongest circumstances of all, the declaration of the inhabitants, that “no other fertile spot exists in the vicinity; or nearer than the Lesser Oasis.”

A proof of the populousness and affluence of the ancient state of Ammon, exists in the numerous catacombs pointed out to, or visited by, Browne and Horneman: and by the probability that the rocky hill on which the modern town stands, is also full of catacombs. Such are indeed known to exist within the habitations of the people of the neighbouring village of Ummesogeir; which may thence be supposed, notwithstanding its present miserable state, to have been a flourishing appendage to ancient Ammon: and might probably have been the _Siropum_ of Ptolemy.

One particular requires discussion. Mr. Horneman differs very widely from Mr. Browne, in his estimation of the extent of the territory of Siwah. Mr. Browne reckons it six miles by four: but Mr. Horneman a _circumference_ of 50 miles. His words are, “a well-watered valley of 50 miles in circuit, surrounded by naked steep rocks.” (Abulfeda also says, that the territory is environed by hills.) Very probably, Mr. Horneman’s idea goes to the whole space inclosed by the hills; Mr. Browne’s to the fertile part of it only; and it must be acknowledged, that the dimensions given by the latter, accord with those of the ancients.

Mr. Horneman says, that _all_ the waters of the springs, are consumed in the irrigation of the gardens and fields; so that no stream flows _beyond_ the district. It is certain, that Edrisi describes a _river_ named _Costara_, at eight journies from Bahnasa, in the Lesser Oasis, towards Fezzan; agreeing almost exactly with the distance to Siwah from Cairo, fifteen days; which, at 19 G. miles, are equal to 285; and the construction has 275. According to Mr. Horneman’s description of the copious and numerous springs in Siwah, one of which alone, he says, forms a considerable rivulet, and another, several rivulets, it might be expected that some of the waters flowed to a considerable distance before they were entirely absorbed in the sands. The Costara river, may, however, flow from a distinct fountain in the Desert: but the coincidence of position is remarkable.

The description of the lands of Siwah, by Mr. Horneman, and of the Greater Oasis, by Mr. Browne, appear to be of the same nature; each possessing copious fountains and verdant fields, fitted either for pasture or cultivation. The lands of the Lesser Oasis are said to be much the same, though rather inferior: whence it would seem, that the Valley of Mogara, which has good water at the depth of four feet, only wants that it should spring up to the surface, in order to form it into an Oasis, like the others!

III. _The Lesser Oasis._

Mr. Horneman was told that at the distance of seven journies from Siwah, five from Faiume, and at only a _few_ from Biljoradek, there existed a country, similar to Siwah, and whose inhabitants, who are less numerous, spoke the _same language_. He with reason, concluded it to be a part of the Lesser Oasis of the ancients; and, from its position, it ought to be the northern extremity.

If by a few days journey, when five and seven have been mentioned before, we may understand three, or thereabouts, the place in question, should lie in the parallel of 28° 50′; at about midway between Cairo and Siwah;[35] and 89 G. miles to the westward of Bahnasa, at the canal of Joseph. Hence it falls very near to Bahnasa, in the Oasis, which has been already placed,[36] at 83 from the forementioned place.

Ptolemy places the Lesser Oasis in lat 28° 45′: and at 75 G. miles to the west of _Oxyrinchus_, taken for the last mentioned Bahnasa. He no doubt meant to express some particular point in the Oasis; and that point, probably, the principal town, which may have been on the site of Bahnasa in the Oasis. So that there is a general agreement between the ancient and the modern accounts of it.[37]

But Mr. Browne, when at Charje in the Greater Oasis, was told, that the southern part of the Lesser Oasis, named by the inhabitants _Al-wah-el-Gherbi_, was only forty miles distant to the northward. This being the case, the Lesser Oasis should have an extent of more than 100 miles from north to south: that is, more than the other tract, of the same name, denominated the _Greater_; but which may, nevertheless, be true, as the term greater or lesser, may refer to other qualities than dimensions. Mr. Browne describes the Greater Oasis (which he had traversed throughout) to consist of large detached spots or islands, like Siwah, extending in a chain from N to S, and separated by intervals of desert from two to fourteen hours of travelling. The Lesser Oasis, most probably, is much of the same nature; but is, by general report, inferior to the other, and vastly inferior to Siwah. See an account of the Oases in the Geog. of Herodotus, Sections xx. and xxi.

Mr. Browne adds, that the Lesser Oasis is a kind of capital settlement of the Muggrebine (or western) Arabs, who pass from it, to the western extremity of the lake Kairun; whose shore, on that side, is also in their possession. (Pages 132, 170.)

Thus, our modern travellers have fixed, pretty satisfactorily, in the view of general geography, the positions of all the three Oases: but it would be more satisfactory to have correctly the latitude of the northern extremity of the Lesser one, as well as some account of the number and position of the _islands_ contained in it.

IV. _Valleys of Schiacha, and Gegabib._

At the distance of about three days journey to the westward of Siwah, Mr. Horneman came to _Schiacha_, a _fruitful_ valley on the right; and, as appears from a circumstance that occurred during the unpleasant visit of the Siwahans, there were many little _bogs_, in the neighbourhood of their camp, in that valley. Again, at six hours farther, was _Torfaue_, where they also obtained fresh water. Moreover, in the way from Siwah to Schiacha, at the distance of 6 or 7 miles from the former, he saw at the foot of the hills, a lake, implied to be of fresh water, (see Journal, page 57,) of several miles in extent.

Combining with this, the remark of Mr. Horneman, that they had travelled by a chain of hills from Siwah; that these hills were a continuation of those which they had always seen to the _northward_ of their route through the Desert; and that they “rose immediately from the level ground of the Desert, without any declivity, and without any arenacious, or other cover, only the bare rock being seen;” one may conclude, that the valley described, at the foot of these hills, is much of the same nature, with that of _Mogara_. Moreover, it appears, that he considered the whole extent of the hills, from the Bahr-bela-ma _to_ Schiacha, at least, as one continued ridge; and which has an abrupt declivity to the south. The _continuity_, however, remains to be proved.

The remarkable valley of _Gegabib_, famous for its dates, cannot be far from the neighbourhood of _Schiacha_ and _Torfaue_; since Mr. Browne says, page 26, that when he had advanced two journies to the north-westward of Siwah, he was _not far_ from Gegabib. Mr. Beaufoy calls it, from the description of Ben Ali, “a narrow plain, sandy, and uninhabited, but fertile in dates;” which, he adds, are gathered by the people of _Duna_ on the sea coast, eight journies distant.[38] As Mr. Horneman remarked no date trees on his way from Siwah to Augila, his route must have been wide of this valley or plain, and no doubt to the _south_ of it. This seems proved by Ben Ali’s description of the route from Augila to Siwah, which lay “_across the extensive mountains of Gerdoba_,” to this valley; since Mr. Horneman left the mountains to the northward of him, the whole way.

As the dates of Gegabib are now gathered by the people of the sea coast; and those of Augila in ancient times, by the _Nasamones_ of the coast of the _Syrtis_; so the people of the _same_ coast, aided by the modern _Augilans_, undertake expeditions ten days journey inland from _Augila_, to _steal_ men and dates, at present![39] So that this system of inroad, from the quarter towards the coast, inland, seems to have been practised at all times; and I shall have occasion to remark it again, hereafter. Augila was an inhabited place in the time of Herodotus, and yet the dates were carried off by strangers: and it seems the present Augilans retaliate on others, the injuries sustained by their ancestors.

V. _Augila._

This small, but celebrated territory, is situated nearly midway between Egypt and Fezzan; and somewhat less than 170 miles from the nearest coast of the Mediterranean. It seems to possess much of the character of an Oasis, being flat, well watered, fertile, and surrounded by arid deserts, either sandy or rocky; in particular, that to the west is so destitute of herbage, that the camels of Mr. Horneman’s caravan, carried their provender with them. Its extent from east to west, seems to be little more than a long day’s journey. The agriculture of the Augilans is confined more to gardening, than to raising of corn: but Mr. Horneman is silent respecting the culture of dates, for which it has been so celebrated both in ancient and modern times.[40]

It appears that the Augilans are the merchants who carry on the commerce between Egypt and Fezzan; for which, their middle situation, and ready communication with the port of Bengasi, qualify them. The people of one of their most populous towns,[41] _Mojabra_, are solely occupied with this commerce: and Mr. Horneman contrasts, in a most unfavourable light, the character of these traders, with the people of the other towns, whose employment is agriculture. In a few short remarks, we are shewn, in the most pointed manner, the natural, and almost necessary effect, of the occupations of mankind on their moral habits. Notwithstanding the possession of this commerce, Augila is still a very poor place indeed.

It may be remarked, that _Augila_ is one of the few places in Africa that has preserved its ancient name entire.

VI. _The Harutsch, White and Black._

These remarkable tracts (of which see the description above, page 48 _et seq._) had been noticed by Ben Ali, to Mr. Beaufoy, who has recorded them (in chap. x. of the Proceed. Afr. Assoc. for 1790;) the one under the description of the rocky Desert of _black_ and _naked rock_, of four days extant; the other, of _soft_ and _sandy_ stone, of three days extent: but they are described in a very obscure manner, and their respective positions are transposed.

Mr. Horneman appears to have employed nearly fifty hours in crossing the _black_ Harutsch; fourteen more in the _white_ Harutsch; or altogether sixty-four hours, equal to eight ordinary caravan days; which does not differ very widely from the report of Ben Ali, who allowed _seven_.

The white Harutsch forms the extreme boundary of Fezzan, and extends southward, into the district of the _Tibbo Rshade_; of which more in the sequel. The black Harutsch appears to be much more extensive. Horneman was told, that it was in breadth five journies from east to west; (he crossed it in WSW direction;) and in length seven, from north to south. However, Mr. Horneman justly observes, that it must be more extensive, since he crossed a tract of the same nature, in his way from Fezzan to Tripoly; and even from that point it was said to extend a considerable distance to the west. He adds, that he learnt at Mourzouk, that there were black mountains also in the road from that place to Bornou: that is, to the south-east.

Mr. Beaufoy was also informed, (See chap. iv. Afr. Proceed. 1790,) that a desert named _Souda_, (that is, _black_,) is crossed in the way from Mesurata to Fezzan; agreeing with Mr. Horneman’s report. The breadth, in a north and south direction, is given at four days, or somewhat narrower than in Mr. Horneman’s line of route from Augila.

Mr. Horneman describes the black Harutsch to consist of matter, that, in his idea, was volcanic, or had undergone the action of fire: and its conformation appears very singular indeed. There exists in Pliny, an evident proof that it was known to the Romans; for they had crossed it, in their expeditions to Fezzan, and towards the Niger, &c.; and had even explored and remarked the shortest route across the same mountains.

Pliny says, that “from _Cydamus_ (i. e. _Gadamis_, which, by the bye, he says lies opposite to _Sabrata_, on the sea coast) there extends a mountain a long way to the east, called by the Romans, MONS ATER; and which appears as if it were burnt or scorched by the rays of the sun.” (Lib. v. c. 5.) And he adds, that beyond those mountains, are deserts, and the towns of the Garamantes, which were conquered by the Romans under Balbus. In this description, we clearly recognise the SOUDA, or BLACK DESERT, to the north of Fezzan; and which Mr. Horneman _saw_, both there, and to the east, of the same country; and also _learnt_, that it _continued_ far westward, beyond the line of the road from Fezzan to Mesurata: in other words, towards Gadamis.

Sockna, which is a town of some consideration, lies midway between this road and Gadamis: and it is known that the Desert of _Souda_ passes to the south of it. So that there is little doubt but that Pliny is right, in extending the _Mons Ater_ westward to _Cydamus_, (_i. e._ Gadamis) and to a long extent eastward of it.

VII. _Fezzan._

It has been said, that there is no material difference between the position of the capital of this country (Mourzouk), as given by Mr. Horneman, and the former assumed position in the maps, drawn for the African Association, in 1790 and 1798; considered in the view of general geography. It is for this reason, that I have not altered it in the general Map, but have accommodated the positions eastward to it; instead of altering the entire Map. But in the Map of Mr. Horneman’s Route, all the positions affected by his observations, are given according to those observations.

Neither do the boundaries and extent, as given by Mr. Horneman, differ materially from those given by Mr. Beaufoy; which is remarkable, considering under what disadvantage he collected his materials, compared with the mode of collecting them on the spot. But in arranging the boundaries, a distinction is to be made between the _proper_ country of Fezzan, and its _dependencies_.

Mr. Horneman says, that the _cultivated_ part of Fezzan has an extent of 300 British miles from north to south; by 200 from east to west: which dimensions have a general agreement with Mr. Beaufoy’s, in respect of the _area_ of _the whole_; but Mr. Beaufoy makes it a circle, whilst Mr. Horneman makes it an oval. It would appear, also, that Mr. Horneman reckons the whole extent thus given by himself and Mr. Beaufoy as cultivated land; and we know too little of the actual geography to attempt any detail. Mr. Horneman came to the eastern border of Fezzan at 44 to 45 hours, equal to about 110 B. miles by the road, from Mourzouk. In order to justify Mr. Horneman’s calculation, Mourzouk ought to stand nearly in the centre, between the eastern and western limits; but Mr. Beaufoy says, that the territory does not extend far to the west of the capital.

Again, Mr. Beaufoy allows five days from the northern boundary, at the edge of the black Desert, to Mourzouk: that is, about 100 B. miles by the road. And from Mourzouk southward to the mountains of _Eyre_, the southern boundary, fourteen days; equal to 280 such miles: total 380: or perhaps, in direct distance, 350 such miles. But there lies in the midway, a desert of five journies in breadth; and it is uncertain to what point Mr. Horneman reckons.

The dependencies are very extensive. The regions of the Harutsch, together with Wadan, Houn, (or Hun), and Sockna, all of which lie _beyond_ the Harutsch, Mr. Horneman classes as belonging to Fezzan. Sockna should be a place of note, as its merchants are in possession of the chief part of the commerce, between Fezzan and Tripoly.

Mr. Horneman was informed that there are 101 inhabited _places_ in Fezzan; and it is remarkable that this is precisely the number stated in M. Delisle’s Map of Africa, drawn in 1707; and Mr. Beaufoy’s informant said, little less than 100. But amongst these, there are few places of note, and still fewer whose positions are given; and in the report of these, Mr. Beaufoy’s informant differs in some respect, from Mr. Horneman.

Of the position of the capital, Mourzouk, I have already spoken, very fully.

Zuila, or Zawila, (probably the _Cillaba_ of Pliny, lib. v. c. 5.) is placed, by Mr. Horneman’s route, at 59 G. miles to the _eastward_ of Mourzouk. Mr. Beaufoy was told that it was 7 days journey distant, and the bearing, in his reports, varies from _east_ to _ENE_. I have allowed E by N. This was the capital in the time of Edrisi:[42] and probably, from this circumstance, some of the neighbouring nations still call the country of Fezzan, _Seela_, as we are told by Mr. Horneman.

Temissa, another principal town, is placed by Mr. Horneman about 7 hours travelling, to the eastward of Zuila. This appears to be the _Tamest_ of Edrisi, situated at 40 journies (of his scale) from Cairo.

Germa, or Jermah, is placed, by Mr. Beaufoy, _southward_ from Zuila, and at nearly the same distance from Mourzouk. This is unquestionably the _Garama_ of the Romans,[43] the capital of Fezzan, or _Phazania_, at the time of the Roman conquest; and which appears to have given the name of _Garamantes_ to the whole nation. (As the discussion of this subject is already before the Public, in the Geography of Herodotus,