Chapter XXI: Section XXII: the Author begs leave to refer to it). Mr. Horneman, (1)

who names this place _Yerma_, places it to the _west_ of the capital: however, M. D’Anville has placed it under the name of _Gherma_, to the SE, with _Tessoua_ (or _Tosaûa_) between the two; and this is Mr. Beaufoy’s arrangement of it. It should be noticed that M. D’Anville places these towns out of all proportion too far to the south-east of Mourzouk; being unconscious that _Gherma_, or _Garama_, was situated within Fezzan, although he recognises it as the capital of the _Garamantes_.

Kattron is placed SE from the capital, by Mr. Beaufoy, distant 60 road miles. This is the _Gatron_ of Mr. Horneman, placed by him directly south. D’Anville names it _Catron_, and places it about SSW, distant 75 G. miles. In another place, where Mr. Horneman describes a march of troops from Fezzan to Burgu, he reckons Gatron S 54 miles from Mourzouk, in the way to Teghery; which being, by every account, to the west of south, from Mourzouk, it may be inferred that Katron lies to the southward, rather than to the south-eastward. The report of the distance differs but little between Mr. Horneman and Mr. Beaufoy. M. D’Anville probably was not so well informed as either of these gentlemen, in respect of the distance.

Mendra is said, by Mr. Beaufoy, to be 60 miles nearly south, from the capital. But this is the position of Katron, according to Horneman, and which, as we have seen, appears probable: and Mendra being a _province_, as well as a town, must be in some other situation. Possibly, it ought to change places with Katron, in Mr. Beaufoy’s description.

Teghery is given by Mr. Beaufoy, as the most westerly, or rather south-westerly town of Fezzan; and he places it SW 80 road miles from the capital. The same place appears in a route (mentioned before) from Mourzouk to Burgu, by Mr. Horneman, who places it SSW 33 such miles, from Katron; whence the position of Teghery would be about S ¾ W, 85 miles. But D’Anville places it at SSW ½ W 116 G. miles from Mourzouk; and although the distance in this case, as in that of Katron, is excessive, yet some regard ought to be had to the bearing. Accordingly, a mean of the three gives S 26 W; and the mean distance of Beaufoy and Horneman 68 G. miles, reduced to a direct line.

A place named Tai-garee appears in a route from Tunis to Kashna, communicated by Mr. Magrah, at fifteen journies from Gadamis.[44] It appears highly probable that this is the same place with Teghery in Fezzan: but the distance arising on the fifteen journies falls very short of the position of Teghery, placed as above. Could this point be ascertained, it would operate as a check on the position of Mourzouk; and I cannot but suspect, that this capital is somewhat more to the west, or north-west, than it now stands in the Map.

These facts are particularly noticed here, that future geographers may inquire, whether the route of the Tunis caravan, to Soudan, passes through Teghery in the western skirt of the country of Fezzan; as I conceive it doth: and also that there is some error in the combination of the geographical context, between Tunis, and the eastern positions, which prevents the closing of the lines, to the aforesaid town of Teghery.

One cannot dismiss the subject of Fezzan, without remarking, that the observations of Mr. Horneman have added another proof of its being the country intended by the ancient authors, for that of the Garamantes. For he has shewn us, that the black rocky Desert, the continuation of the _black Harutsch_, passes between Fezzan and Tripoly, and extends yet farther west, towards Gadamis; and as Pliny places the _Mons Ater_ in this position, with a desert and the cities of the _Garamantes_ beyond them, these cities cannot well be any others than those of Fezzan. (See above, page 151). I shall also mention, in its place, another circumstance brought to light by Mr. Horneman, concerning the _Troglodytæ_ mentioned by Herodotus, in the neighbourhood of the Garamantes; and which induces a very strong belief that the people bordering on the south-east of Fezzan, are meant.

_Compiled by_ J. Rennell, _1798_.

_Corrected in 1802_.

_Published according to Act of Parliament by James Rennell May 25th. 1798._

_J. Walker Sculp._]

=CHAPTER III.=

* * * * *

_Improvements in the general Geography of North Africa.—Remote Sources of the Nile, and Termination of the Niger.—Lake of Fittré, or Kauga._

This division of the present subject respects the improvements of the general geography of the eastern quarter of North Africa. Since the construction of the General Map, in 1798,[45] much new matter has appeared in the Travels of Mr. Browne: and to these are now to be added, the observations and inquiries of Mr. Horneman. These important notices will be found mutually to explain and confirm each other, as far as they go, over the same ground; and which is to a very considerable extent.

Mr. Browne has the advantage in point of materials proper for mathematical geography; whilst Mr. Horneman’s range of inquiry, though equally extended, consists more of general notices, in the nature of sketches. Both possess very great merit; both appear indefatigable in collecting the most useful matter that either presented itself, or could be procured: and how much soever a person at his ease, and in a state of perfect security, may blame the want of a clear and connected series of notices, respecting the geography and present state of the countries treated of; yet it should be considered, under what disadvantages, and at what hazard, a European traveller in the interior of Africa, collects his information: and which, the histories of these gentlemen’s proceedings, now before the Public, as well as those of their old acquaintance Mr. Park, abundantly shew.

Mr. Browne’s materials consist of a line of 16 degrees of latitude, from Cairo to the capital of Darfoor; corrected by observations of latitude and longitude: together with an extension of this line southward, six degrees farther, by enquiries amongst the natives, and other travellers, on the spot. His inquiries reached to about the parallel of 8 degrees north; in which position there were pointed out to him, the heads of the _Bahr Abiad_, or _White River_, taken for the most remote, and long sought for, head of the EGYPTIAN NILE. And besides this line, his inquiries were pointed _eastward_ and _south-east_, to the borders of Abyssinia; _westward_ and _south-west_, to Bornu; also to other countries, not before heard of in Europe; the whole forming an extent of more than 15 degrees of longitude.

The line from Cairo to the head of the White River, is in length upwards of 1360 G. miles: or more than 1440, from the mouth of the Nile; taken in _direct_ distance. In its bearing, it varies so little from the meridian, that the head of the river bears only about a point and a half to the west of south, from the place of its discharge into the Mediterranean.

This route departing from the Nile at _Siout_, first passes through, and fixes the position of the _Greater Oasis_; then successively, through the positions of Sheb, Selimé, Leghea, and Bir-el-Malha, in the way to Darfoor.

From the known caution and accuracy of Mr. Browne, this line becomes an important acquisition: and in respect of the place of the head of the White River, his information is corroborated generally, by that collected by Ledyard and Maillet, at Cairo. In other parts of his geography, he is corroborated by the recent information of Mr. Horneman; by the notices in Edrisi; by Maillet; and even by Bruce himself.

It is unnecessary to enter into any details, respecting this geography, which is already before the public, in his excellent book of Travels, which furnishes an important part of the subject now before the reader; particularly what respects the head of the White River, (that is, the Nile;) and, by implication, what concerns the termination of the Niger also.

In the selection of materials from the map made by Mr. Browne, from his own observations and inquiries, I have scrupulously adhered to the map itself, (except in the single instance of the position of the capital of Bornou;) on a supposition that he had well compared and weighed the authorities for the different reports of bearings and distances; and thence formed a better result than could be done by any other person. But I have added from his Appendix, some intermediate routes, and positions, which he judged proper to omit in his map.

He informs us, that he determined by inquiries, that proved satisfactory, the distance of the Nile from Selimé; whence it appears, that although the position of the great cataract, as well as those of Moscho, and of Dongola, taken on the authority of Mr. Bruce, ought to come _somewhat_ more to the south or south-west; yet that, in a general point of view, the agreement is closer than could have been expected. The same may be said of Sennaar, in respect of Darfoor; Mr. Browne being satisfied, that the interval of distance between them, agreed to the observations; the one being determined by Mr. Bruce, the other by himself. Mr. D’Anville had placed Sennaar nearly four degrees of longitude too far to the west, in his map of Africa, 1749.[46]

It may be observed, that between Egypt and Darfoor, no waters whatsoever communicate with the Nile, from the west: and that Mr. Browne was assured, that the same state of things existed to the south, between Darfoor and the head of the White River. So far indeed, from any water running to the east in that quarter, he was told (and the fact is corroborated in part by others,) that the waters to the west and south-west of Darfoor, all ran to the _west_ or _north-west_.

Mr. Browne relates, from the information of the people at Darfoor, that the head of the White River consists of a number of streams, issuing from certain lofty mountains named _Kumri_, or _Komri_, situated in a country named _Donga_, distant a month’s journey from Shilluk; which is itself 3¼ days short of Sennaar: so that the _remotest_ spring of the White River may be 45 journies from Sennaar. Now, some of the slaves brought in the Darfoorian caravan to Cairo, told Mr. Ledyard that they came from a place 55 journies _westward_ from Sennaar; and Mr. Browne informs us, that the people of Bergoo (adjacent to Darfoor) make a practice of going a _slave hunting_ into the quarter of Donga. (Travels, p. 473.) Another person amongst those questioned by Mr. Ledyard (implied to come from the same place,) said, that the head of the Nile was situated in his country.[47] If it be supposed that, in stating the distance of Sennaar from the head of the Nile, they meant that the road lay _through_ Darfoor, (which is not improbable) the distance of 55 days would be fully made up. It is reckoned 23 days from Darfoor to Sennaar, and somewhat more from Darfoor to the copper mines of Fertit; which are yet very far short of the head of the White River.

In the map of Africa, 1798, I had placed the head of the White River, about 130 miles to the SE of the place now assigned by Mr. Browne.

Mr. Horneman having again set afloat the idea of the junction of the Niger with the Nile, it becomes necessary to examine, minutely, the geographical materials furnished by Mr. Browne and Mr. Horneman, as well as the notices found in Edrisi; in order to shew the improbability of such a fact. Mr. Horneman was informed by persons who had travelled to Darfoor, that the Niger (_Joliba_) passed by the south of Darfoor, into the White River. It is certain that Herodotus[48] collected much the same kind of information in Egypt: but it is equally certain that the people whom Mr. Browne consulted at Darfoor, were silent, respecting any such junction: on the contrary, they report, not only that the White River is formed of sources, springing from the mountains on the south, but also that the waters between Darfoor and those mountains, run to the westward. It is proper to add, that the mountains in question, named Kumri, or _Komri_, are, as the name imports, the _Mountains_ of the _Moon_; in which Ptolemy, and the Arabian geographers, place the remote head of the Nile.[49]

In chapter vi. of the Geographical Illustrations, 1798, I have set forth several facts, with a view to shew the probability of the termination of the Niger, by _evaporation_, in the country of Wangara, &c. To that, I shall beg leave to refer: but as many additional facts, tending to strengthen my former ideas, have been furnished by recent travellers, I shall have occasion to repeat some of the former statements and arguments, in the course of the discussion.

Towards the west and SW, to the extent of several hundred miles from the capital of Darfoor, Mr. Browne learnt, that the country was intersected by a number of streams, whose courses pointed to the west and north-west. He appears to speak, however, with less confidence of the courses of all the other waters, save the _Misselâd_, and the small river _Batta_, its adjunct. These, he unequivocally conducts from SE to NW. (See pages 449—464, and his map at page 180). But of the others, he merely says, “the course of the rivers, if rightly given, is, for the most part, from E to W.” But he also says, p. 449, “the country they flow through, is said to be, great part of the year, wet and marshy; the heat is excessive, and the people remark that there is no winter.” The principal, as well as the most remote of these rivers, is the _Bahr Kulla_, denominated from a country of the same name, described (p. 308), to _abound_ with _water_; and this Bahr Kulla is considerable enough to require boats to cross it, of which some are made of single trees, large enough to hold ten persons.[50]

It would seem, therefore, (if Mr. Browne was correctly informed, and I can see no reason to doubt, because he speaks with caution), as if these rivers descended from the high country on the south of Darfoor, into a comparatively low, and hollow tract to the west, in which also two large lakes are marked in Mr. Browne’s map: and this tract falls, in our geography, nearly midway between the head of the White River, and the country of _Wangara_, placed according to the notices found in Edrisi; and which are corroborated, generally, by Mr. Horneman, who was told that Wangara lay to the westward of the empire of Bornu.[51] Through this country of Wangara, the great river of interior Africa (our _Niger_) runs, and beyond Wangara, eastward, we are unable to _trace_ it. (It may be necessary to remark here, that Edrisi conceived that the Niger ran to the west, from a source, common to that, and to the Egyptian Nile.)

In fact, one ought not to be surprised to find, considering how very loosely and inaccurately such kind of information must necessarily be given, at so great a distance from the seat of inquiry, (that is, many hundred miles from Mr. Browne’s station in Darfoor), if the lakes and rivers in question should turn out to be those of Wangara itself! It may be observed, that the distances from the capital of Darfoor agree nearly as well to the lakes of Wangara, as to those of _Hermad_ and _Dwi_; and the bearing does not differ two points of the compass.[52] There is nothing to check the bearings from Darfoor, on that side; and it would not be at all extraordinary, if two descriptions, such as those of Edrisi, and of the people of Darfoor, should be even more at variance, than the difference between the positions of the _two sets_ of lakes and rivers, on the map.

But how ambiguous soever the subject of the _western_ streams, between the head of the White River and Wangara, may be, the waters that flow from the southern and western borders of Darfoor, are clearly known to run to the north-west, and to form a large lake; proving a hollow space to exist, in the quarter, north-west of Darfoor; and little more than 160 miles eastward of Wangara.[53] Whether this hollow be a continuation of that which receives the waters of the Niger, and forms a part of them into lakes, in Wangara, remains to be discovered. It is, however, in proof, that Edrisi believed the fact, by his describing a water communication the whole way. I now proceed to describe the course of these waters, that flow from the quarter of Darfoor, towards the north-west.

Mr. Browne was informed, (page 449,) that on the south of Darfoor, and between that country and the source of the White River, the waters formed a considerable river, named _Misselâd_. This he traces on his map at page 180, and in the routes given in his Appendix, p. 449, 464, 468, towards the NNW and NW, to a point above the parallel of 15 degrees north (_i. e._ through near 400 G. miles of course); but he is silent, otherwise than by implication, respecting its future course. But of a second river (the _Batta_) whose course lies _between_ the Misselâd and Darfoor, and very near to the former, he says, that it flows from the _south_, and then, deviating to the _west_, it falls into the _Bahr-el-Fittré_. (P. 464). It remains to be added, that, following the western road from Wara to Bagherme (in his Appendix, p. 464, 465), we come to the Bahr Fittré itself: but without any notices respecting the crossing of the Misselâd river, by the way. This matter, however, will be made clearer, presently, by the aid of Horneman and Edrisi.

Mr. Browne continues to say, (p. 465,) that “the people on the banks of the Bahr Fittré use little boats, for the purpose of passing from one place to another, on _the river_.” The word _Bahr_ indicating equally a lake or a river, is here understood for the _latter_, by Mr. Browne; but we learn from Mr. Horneman, that the dominions of the sultan of _Fiddri_, (as he writes it,) are situated round a large fresh-water lake, which bears the same name: and that, into this lake flows _a river which comes from Darfoor_; and whose banks are very rich in sugar-canes. (See above, p. 115.)

This account of the lake is strengthened by several circumstances. Horneman says, that the district of Fiddri, although so named by its own inhabitants, is called _Cougu_, or _Cugu_, by the people who dwell eastward; (the Arabs;) _Luffe_, by those on the west. Now, _Couga_, or _Kauga_, is noted by Edrisi, as a country and city near a large lake of fresh water, situated at 30 journies westward, or south-westward, from Dongola; 36 eastward from Gana: and here we have the very position. Moreover, Mr. Browne describes, in the before-mentioned western route, at 3½ journies short of the Bahr Fittré, _Dar Cooka_,[54] doubtless the country of _Couga_ or _Cugu_ in question.

The circumstance of boats plying on the Bahr Fittré (Browne’s Travels, p. 465,) also accords with the idea of a lake. Nor can there be a doubt that the Misselâd of Browne, is the river from the quarter of Darfoor, intended by Horneman: and that _it_, as well as the river of Batta, falls into the lake of Fittré.[55]

It may be remarked, that what Edrisi describes as the upper part of the course of the _Niger_, (_Nilus Nigrorum_) is evidently intended for this river: but he describes it as originating from the same source as the _Egyptian Nile_, and flowing westward. There also appears in Ptolemy, the same river springing from about the 10th degree of north latitude; as the Misselâd does.

It appears certain then, that the ground declines, from the quarter of Darfoor, towards the interior of Africa, to the north-west and west: and the descriptions of Edrisi, (page 13,) go equally to prove that the ground also declines from the NE to SW, towards the lake of Fittré; because he describes the river of _Kuku_ to run southward.[56]

The same must be understood of the river of the Antelopes, or _Wad-el-Gazel_, which is marked by Mr. Browne, (p. 465,) at two journies to the NW of the lake Fittré; and by Mr. Beaufoy at the distance of one journey from the capital of Bournu. Mr. Horneman indeed was told, that the Wad-el-Gazel was not a river, but a fruitful and well inhabited valley. It is probably both: that is, a fertile valley, with a river running through it. Hence we must suppose the Wad-el-Gazel to be another river that falls into the lake Fittré, from the north; and consequently, the lake itself, to be the receptacle of the eastern waters of the interior of North Africa.

Edrisi places Semegonda at ten journies to the westward or SW of _Kauga_, (our _Fittré_,) and within the country of Wangara, which is entirely surrounded by the branches of the Niger, and periodically inundated by its waters: and it is clear that he believed, that there was a water communication between Wangara and Kauga; because he says, (p. 7.) that salt was conveyed all along the Niger, eastward to that point. It may be remarked, that Horneman says, that the people of Fittré (Kauga) have no salt, but what they obtain from vegetable substances.[57]

If there be, as Edrisi says, (page 7,) a water communication between Kauga and Wangara, (no matter which way the water runs), the fact of a common level, would, of course, be proved; and then it must be admitted to be highly improbable, that any part of the course of the White River, southward of Darfoor, should be on a lower level, than the lake of Fittré. But, perhaps, some may doubt the authority of Edrisi, in this point; and possibly, the more so, since he says, that the Niger runs to the west.

But placing this circumstance out of the question, and leaving the facts set forth by Mr. Browne and Mr. Horneman, to speak for themselves, it may be asked,

1. Whether it is probable that the Niger, after running about 2250 British miles in direct distance from its source, should not have arrived at a lower level, than that of the countries adjacent to the heads of the Nile?[58]

2. Whether the course of the Misselâd river, from the south of Darfoor, is not almost directly contrary to that which the Niger should take from Wangara, in order to join the White River?

3. Whether the course of the waters, to the west of Darfoor, and of the head of the White River, are not also reported to run _towards_ the quarter that contains the Niger, instead of _coming from it_? and are they not said to run through a wet marshy country; whilst that to the east, in the line between Fittré and the White River, is high and mountainous?[59]

4. Has not the country of Wangara, &c. like that of Fittré, the character of an alluvial tract, inundated by the periodical floods of the Niger, to the extent of more than 350 British miles in length, by more than 170 in breadth: and has not both that and Gana, large fresh water lakes in the dry season?[60] May not so great an extent of surface, suffice for the evaporation of the waters of the Niger; as we have already an instance of the kind in Persia, in which the _Heermend_, a river of more than 400 miles length of course, is evaporated in less than ¹⁄₂₀ part of the surface of the inundation formed in Wangara?[61] I now return to the general geography.

Mr. Horneman, in describing the position of the southern states, speaks of _Wadey_, bordering on the west of Darfoor; then _Metko_, west, (or rather NW) of Wadey; both of which are watered by the river which flows from Darfoor to the lake Fittré, (_i. e._ the _Misselâd_); and, finally, Fittré itself, to the NW of Metko. Continuing the description—_Begarmé_[62] is said to lie N of Wadey; Bournu, N of Fittré. _Bergoo_ seems not to have been known to Horneman; or, perhaps, he may have confounded it with the Burgu towards Augila (the _Berdoa_ of Delisle and D’Anville). Bergoo, according to Mr. Browne, is an independent country: Metko and Wadey, the same: so that the empire of Bournu ends with Fittré (or _Cooka_) Margi, and Wangara, southward.[63]

Of these countries, Mr. Browne had not heard of Wangara, under that name;[64] nor of Wadey, or Metko; although he describes the tract which contains them, in his map. Nor does _Dar Cooka_ appear to have been known to him, as the Kauga of Edrisi, or as the Fittré of Horneman.

At the capital of Bournu, the interesting inquiries of Mr. Browne end, northward: but as those of Mr. Horneman extend to the borders of Darfoor, they of course _overlap_ each other; so as to give much greater authority to the report of the course of the waters from Darfoor to the lake Fittré.

With respect to the line of distance, between Fezzan and Darfoor; Darfoor and Sennaar; these are the details: (that from Gana to Dongola, has been already given, page 188.)

Mr. Beaufoy allows between Temissa (in Fezzan) and the capital of _Bournu_, 43 days of caravan travelling, in a south-easterly direction. Mr. Browne places the same capital, deduced from inquiries made at Darfoor, in lat. 19° 45′, lon. 21° 33′; so as to leave an interval of distance equal to 562 G. miles, between Temissa and Bournu; giving a rate of only 13 miles and a small fraction, _per_ day. This rate falls far short of caravan travelling; and it is possible that the halting days may have been included in the aggregate number 43; as is often done, when the inquiries are not sufficiently pointed. In the Proceed. Afr. Assoc. 1798, it is stated, that Bornou falls at 534 G. miles from Dongola on the Nile; and Mr. Browne’s result gives about 600. It should, however, be noted, that Mr. Browne’s Tables (page 467), give a bearing of N ¼ W between Begarmé and Bournu, which I have followed in preference to his map, where it is N 13 W; and thus place Bournu at 562 from Dongola. A mean between the position in the former map, and that given by Mr. Browne, would be 567. But through the want of a cross line of distance, that can be depended on, the position of this important point in geography, remains in uncertainty. Mr. Horneman was told that Bournu was 15 days journey from Kashna: and at 25, in a W by S direction, short of Fittré. This is, no doubt, meant of the _boundary_ of the empire of Bournu, towards Kashna, and not of the capital; and this report appears very probable, as the Bournuan dominions are said to terminate on that side, with the country of Wangara.

=CHAPTER IV.=

* * * * *

_Concerning the Tribes that occupy the habitable Parts of the Great Desert.—Tibbo and Tuarick.—Empires of Bournu, Asben, and Houssa.—General Observations._

The inquiries of Mr. Horneman throw some new light on the distribution of the habitable tracts, inclosed by, or adjoining to, that part of the Sahara which lies to the east of Tombuctoo; as well as of the tract that stands in the same relation to the Eastern, or _Libyan_ Desert.

The empires of Houssa and Bournou, consisting of various lesser states, appear to divide the space along the Niger, from the quarter of Tombuctoo, to that of Darfoor, eastward; and to extend a considerable way to the north, beyond the general line of the river.

Two considerable nations, also, the TIBBO and TUARICK, appear to divide the remainder of the space, northward, _within_ the Deserts; embracing Fezzan on every side but the north; and closing on the maritime states along the Mediterranean, from the Desert which shuts up Egypt on the west, to Mount Atlas. Mr. Horneman appears to be the first person who has given these general ideas of the Tibbo and Tuarick; and they merit attention.

The Tibbo, or Tibboo, possess the eastern, and the Tuarick the western, and most extensive part of this vast tract. Fezzan separates them on the north: and its meridian forms nearly their common boundary, until they close southward on Kashna and Bournu.[65]

According to Mr. Horneman, the settlements of the Tibbo, begin at the south and south-east of Fezzan, and extend from thence eastward, along the south of the Harutsch and of the Augilan Desert, to the wide sandy Desert of the Lebetæ[66] (_Libya_), which shuts up Egypt, on the west. This Desert forms the eastern boundary of the Tibbo. On the south, wandering Arabs possess the tract between them and the empire of Bournu; and on the west, are the Tuarick of Asben (Agades), Tagazee, &c.

The Tibbo are said to be divided into the following tribes: 1. Rshade, or _Rock_ Tibbo. 2. Febabo. 3. Burgu, or Birgu. 4. Arna. 5. Bilma. 6. Nomadic Tibbo.

1. _The Rshade._ This tribe possesses the country adjoining to the south and south-east of Fezzan; and is besides intermixed with the Fezzaners, in those quarters of Fezzan, (as the Tuarick are in the western quarters, and the Arabs in the north.) The towns of the Rock Tibbo, are Abo and Tibesty; which I am enabled to place generally, by means of a route given by Mr. Horneman.[67]

The Tibbo _Rshade_, or _Rock_ Tibbo, are so denominated from their building their habitations under rocks, or living in _caves_; before which they build huts of rushes, for their summer’s residence.

Some idea of the tract inhabited by this tribe, may be collected from Mr. Beaufoy’s account of the country between Fezzan and Bournu, ch. vi.; and from Mr. Horneman’s description of the white Harutsch. The road to Bournu leads out of the country of Fezzan, from Temissa; from which town, seven journies bring us to the plain of _Tibesty_, said to be inhabited by Mahomedans; which is indeed the religion of the Rock Tibbo. The last four days lead across what is termed “a hilly desert of sand.” So far Mr. Beaufoy’s informant.

The white Harutsch, crossed by Mr. Horneman, is in this vicinity, and extends southward, from the line of his route across it, from Augila to Mourzouk: so that it is not improbable that the “hilly desert” just mentioned, is a continuation of the white Harutsch. What renders it more probable is, that Mr. Horneman was told, that certain _black_ mountains, which he suspected to be a part of the black Harutsch, are crossed in the way from Fezzan to Bournu. And it has been shewn, that the black Harutsch adjoins to the white Harutsch on the east; and this arrangement may continue, southward: in which direction Mr. Horneman was informed the black Harutsch stretched, beyond the line of his route.

This gentleman describes the hilly part of the white Harutsch to consist of “_loose friable limestone_, in which the petrifactions are _imbedded so loosely_, that they may be taken out with ease.” No rocks therefore are more likely to contain natural caves, or are more easily excavated, when wanted. This tract, therefore, seems, as well from description, as position, to be that inhabited by the Rock Tibbo.

A circumstance in Herodotus (Melpom. 183), leads one to conclude, that these are the _Ethiopian Troglodytæ, hunted by the Garamantes_. The Garamantes, I trust, I have made to appear, are the Fezzaners; and here are a tribe of Troglodytæ, on their very borders. They are said, in the same place, to be very swift of foot. Mr. Horneman says, that the walk of the Tibbos is light and swift: as if remarkably so: but then he speaks of the Tibbo, collectively; and not of any particular tribe. But, on the other hand, it appears that he saw more of the Rock Tibbo, than any other: for he says, “they go in multitudes to Fezzan;” and it may be that his opinion of the nation at large was, in a great measure, formed by what he saw of this tribe.[68]

A strange particular is related of the Troglodytæ, by Herodotus. He says, that their language bears some resemblance to the screaming of bats.[69] Melpom. 183.

2. _The Febabo._ This tribe is found at 10 journies SSW from Augila; between which territories, on the side of Augila, is a desert of 6 journies, void of water. And notwithstanding this circumstance, and the distance from the sea coast of Bengasi (20 days, at least), they are annually exposed to the depredations of the people of Bengasi, who, joined with those of Augila, go to _steal_ men and dates. See above, on Gegabib, page 148.

3. _Burgu, or Birgu._ (This must not be mistaken for Bergoo, a state situated in the quarter of Darfoor.) It appears in D’Anville and Delisle, as well as in Leo, under the name of _Berdoa_; but the name is too often repeated by Mr. Horneman to be a mistake of his. This tribe resides to the south of Febabo, at the distance of _some_ days; and at eighteen, eastward from Tibesty. Hence the Burgu tribe may be placed S a little W from Augila, and about the parallel of the south of Fezzan.

Their territory is said to be fertile, but they bear the character of robbers. A caravan of Fezzanners, from Begarmé and Bournu, about the time of Mr. Horneman’s visit, was plundered by them. The Sultan of Fezzan sent a force to punish them; the smallness of which, seems to prove that the Burgu are either not numerous, or are very much dispersed. (See above, page 107). The route of the Sultan’s army helps to fix the positions both of Burgu, and of the Rock Tibbo.[70]

Mr. Beaufoy relates (ch. iv. 1790,) that on another occasion, the Tibbo of Tibesty plundered a caravan of Fezzan, which robbery was also punished: but on the last occasion, the Tibestians (who are the Rock Tibbo), aided the Sultan. It appears by the geography, that the caravans from the SE are much exposed to the Burgu and Tibesty, in their route to Fezzan.[71]

4. _Arna._ This tribe is said to live five or six journies to the eastward of the Burgu; and must therefore border on the sandy Desert of the _Lebetæ_. Mr. Horneman appears to have known them only by name.

5. _Bilma._ This is the principal tribe of the Tibbo. They occupy the middle space, between Fezzan and Bournu, adjacent to the great Desert of Bilma. Their capital of _Dyrke_ is said to be one journey from Bilma; which may be the Balmala of Edrisi. They carry on a commerce between Bournu and Fezzan. (See above, p. 106.) The _Billa_ of Ptolemy may possibly be meant for Bilma; but is too far to the eastward.

Mr. Beaufoy states the distance to be 45 days of the salt caravans from Agadez to the lake of Dumboo; which is situated within the Desert of Bilma. These, at 13 G. miles per day,[72] give a total of 585 miles. The interval on the construction is about 60 less. Either then, Agadez is more to the west, or Dumboo more to the east. Two circumstances render it probable that Agadez should be more to the west: Mr. Magrah was told that it lay S 30° W from Fezzan: and that it lay N from Kashna. That part of the General Map of 1798, has not been altered.

6. _Nomadic Tibbo._ These are the most southerly of the tribes; and are seated in the _Bahr-el-Gazel_, which, Mr. Horneman was told, was a long and fruitful valley, 7 journies north of Begarmé. Of the _Bahr_ (or _Wad_)-el-Gazel, I have already spoken, in page 168. The distance of 7 journies N of Begarmé would place the Nomadic Tibbo within the empire of Bournu. Perhaps, in Bournu, as in Persia, both ancient and modern, Nomadic tribes find plenty of room:[73] but whether so far southward, may be a doubt, for a river of the name of Wad-el-Gazel, is said to flow even into the Desert of Bilma. Antelopes are found in the neighbourhood of Dumboo; and there may be a river denominated from them, in that quarter, as well as in that of Begarmé.

_Of the_ TUARICK.[74]

These, whom Mr. Horneman styles a _mighty_ people, appear to occupy the habitable parts of the Great Sahara, situated to the west of the meridian of Fezzan. They must necessarily be widely dispersed; and they are also divided into many tribes. Mr. Horneman very properly confines himself to what he _knew_, concerning them: and this knowledge related to little more than to the tribes of _Kolluvi_ and _Hagara_, who live the nearest to Fezzan; and carry on a commerce between that place, Soudan, and Gadamis.

The Kolluvi possess (from recent conquest, it would seem,) the country of Agadez; which, with other provinces adjacent, forms a state named collectively, _Asben_. It adjoins to Kashna (a part of the empire of Houssa,) on the south; Bournu on the east. Its capital is the city of Agadez, said, by Mr. Magrah’s informant, to be in size equal to the suburbs of Tunis; which, Mr. Magrah observes, compose the largest proportion of that city.

But it would appear by the _Soudan_ route, transmitted by that gentleman, that the establishments of the Tuarick in other places, as Gazer, Tagazee, Jenet, &c. consisted only of small villages, scattered through an immensity of space: indeed, like most of the other tribes situated within this singular region. Zanfara and Guber, which are said to lie adjacent, pay a tribute to Asben.

The Hagara are the most easterly of the Tuarick, and are near Fezzan. These I am not able to place on the Map: possibly, they either occupy Ganat, on the south of Fezzan; or, as the Tuarick possess Jenet and Sockna, on the NW of it, the town of Agaree, in the same quarter, may be the Hagara meant. It appears in the routes collected by Mr. Magrah, at Tunis.

Mr. Horneman also mentions, but without any notice of situation, the _Matkara_ tribe: also that of _Tagama_, situated towards Tombuctoo and Soudan.[75] He forms an ingenious conjecture respecting this tribe. They are said to be whiter than the rest of the Africans of the interior (or rather, perhaps, less black); and are _not_ Mahometans. Now, as the term _Nazary_, or Christian, is applied generally to those whom the Mahometans call unbelievers, Mr. Horneman infers that this circumstance has given rise to the report of there being a tribe of _white Christians_ near Tombuctoo.[76]

The eastern Tuarick live chiefly a Nomadic life.

One curious particular relating to the Tuarick is, that they have formed colonies in _Siwah_, _Augila_, and _Sockna_; all of which are commercial places, forming a chain along the northern border of the Libyan Desert, towards the maritime states along the Mediterranean. To these, the _Lesser Oasis_ is to be added, in course; as speaking the same language as Siwah; and this is corroborated by Mr. Browne, who says (page 132), that the Lesser Oasis forms a kind of capital settlement of the Muggrebine Arabs. Gadamis also may possibly be found to be a colony of the same people; whose establishments of this kind, may extend along the northern border of the whole Sahara; since they have colonies in a quarter so remote from their own nation.[77]

The Tuarick are said, by Mr. Horneman, to be a very interesting people; the most so, of any of the tribes of the Sahara: but he gives the palm of intelligence, benevolence, and mildness, to the people of Houssa; who are, however, Negroes.

This Houssa, (or _Haussa_, as Mr. Horneman calls it), whose position has so long evaded geographical research, is, according to this gentleman, an _empire_, consisting of a number of lesser states, in the very centre of North Africa. Kashna, or Kasna, which has so long figured on the Map as an independent empire, must, according to his description, (and which is very consistent), give way to Houssa, of which Kasna is no more than a province. He includes in Houssa, on the authority of a Maraboot, the countries situated generally between Tombuctoo, Asben, and Bournu.[78]

He says that three names are applied to this empire (as to Fittré:) Haussa, the name among the people themselves; Soudan,[79] (meaning the country of the _Blacks_, or Negroes) by the Arabs; and Asna, by the people of Bournu. But this last, he says, in strictness, applies only to the countries of Kasna, Kano, (Gana,) and such parts of Houssa, as lie to the eastward of _these_: in effect, those parts of Houssa which border on, or are nearest to, the Bournuans: a practice that has prevailed, more or less, in every country.

Concerning the existence of _a city_ of Houssa, Mr. Horneman is silent: but he learnt that Tombuctoo (between which, however, and Fezzan, there is very little intercourse,) is certainly the principal city, and most worthy of notice, in the interior of Africa.

It must be admitted that the information collected by Mr. Magrah, at Tunis, respecting Houssa, agrees with the report of Mr. Horneman; but still there may also be a _city_ of the name of Houssa, in the quarter towards Tombuctoo, and within the limits of the empire now denominated Houssa; and which city, at an earlier period, may have been the capital of the empire.

Mr. Magrah says, (Beaufoy’s MSS.) “All my late informants persist in representing Houssa as a considerable empire, comprehending many principalities. Kasna, (says Sidi Cossem,) is the _great city_, Houssa, the _country_ of the Negroes. The course from Tunis to Gadamis is due south; and the same from thence to Houssa.” (The same authority gave the bearing from Fezzan to Agades, at S 30° W.; and thence to Kasna, due south.)[80]

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

It is an unquestionable fact, that Geography has gained very considerably by Mr. Horneman’s travels; though not quite so much as if he had transmitted the general bearings of the different portions of his routes; as well as the latitudes of some important geographical points; together with an account of the time employed between Fezzan and Tripoly. However, very great allowances must be made, for the critical situation in which he was placed; from the difficulty of supporting the character he had assumed, whilst he was forwarding the purposes of the Association.

It may be justly remarked, that the course of a few years, has solved many of the questions respecting the geography and natural history of Africa, that appeared the most important and curious, during a series of ages: and it may be added, that the physical geography of Africa, turns out to be more remarkable than was even supposed.

Of the questions either wholly, or in part, solved, may be reckoned the following:

_First._ The general direction of the stream of the _Niger_, now proved by Mr. Park, to be from west to east; although the _place_ and _mode_ of its termination, are not _exactly known_.

_Secondly._ The place of the remote head of the Nile; in all ages a _desideratum_: and which, although it has not been actually visited, may fairly be believed, on the authority of Mr. Browne’s information: more especially, as it agrees so nearly with the report of the Darfoor people, to Ledyard, at Cairo; with the reports of the Arabian geographers; and with the information collected by M. Maillet, in Egypt.

_Thirdly._ The place of the Oasis, and remains of the temple of Jupiter Ammon; discovered by Mr. Browne, and corroborated by Mr. Horneman: as also, the exact position and extent of the Greater Oasis, by Mr. Browne; and the approximated position of the Lesser Oasis, by the joint inquiries of the same gentlemen.

_Fourthly._ The position of the nation called _Garamantes_ by the ancients; derived from information collected by the African Association.

_Fifthly._ The truth of the question respecting the _Lotus_; which, considered fairly, and stripped of the poetical ideas annexed to it, is really what the ancients described it to be. The merit of this discovery, or at least, the distinct proof of it, rests, in a great measure, with Mr. Park.

_Sixthly._ The proof of certain facts stated by the ancients; as,

1. The Dates of the distant inland tracts, being gathered by the people of the sea coast.

2. The _Mons Ater_ of Pliny, recognised in the _Black Harutsch_.

3. The site of Memphis, before involved in doubt and obscurity.

4. The singular conformation of the Mound of _Bubastis_, in Lower Egypt, proved by the French _Sçavans_.[81]

Although a part, only, of these discoveries, have been made by persons employed by the Association, yet it is probable that the gentleman to whom we owe some of the most brilliant of them, was in part determined to the pursuit, by the discussions set on foot by the Association; which had been established some years before Mr. Browne’s travels commenced.

POSTSCRIPT.

When the above Memoir was printed, I was ignorant that the following passage occurred, in Mr. Horneman’s Letter of the 6th April, from Mourzouk.

“I spoke to a man who had seen Mr. Browne in Darfoor: he gave me some information respecting the countries he travelled through, and told me, that the communication of the Niger with the Nile, was not to be doubted, but that this communication before the rainy season, was very little; in those parts, the Niger being at the dry period _reposing_, or _non fluens_.”

If the authority is to be depended on, it proves two facts: first, that the _Niger_ and _Nile_, (that is the _western_ branch, or _White_ River), are by no means one and the same river; but, on the contrary, that their fountains are perfectly distinct: for, it is agreed on all hands, that the White River is a very large stream, at all seasons; whereas, we are here told that the Niger discharges into the Nile, during the dry season, only a very small portion of its waters: consequently, the waters of the Nile must come from some other quarter than the Niger.

The other fact is, that during the dry season, the waters of the Niger are generally evaporated in the inland country: a fact disbelieved by many, from their not being well informed respecting the powers of evaporation.

The communication above alluded to, may probably turn out to be that, between the lakes of Wangara and Fittré; which is described by Edrisi as a part of the track of the salt trade along the Niger. It may be proper to repeat, that the _Misselâd_ of the map, answers to the upper part of Edrisi’s _Niger_.

ERRATA IN THE GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR.

Page 130 line the last, for _whole_, read _given_.

— 148 — last but one, for _and_, read _to_.

— 171, 172 for _Metho_, read _Metko_.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 14: The Reader is referred to the Map of Mr. Horneman’s Route, page 29, and to the General Map of Africa, opposite Chapter III.]

[Footnote 15: Mr. Horneman had the misfortune to lose his papers at Schiacha, three days beyond Siwah; so that he must have written down the time, previous to that accident, from recollection only. Between Cairo and Siwah, his time is given, as follows:

Hours.

Cairo to Wady-el-Latron, or the Natron Valley, _about_ 19

To a sand hill, (supposed to be the ridge between the
Natron Valley and the bed of the Bahr-bela-ma) 4

To Muhabag 13

Mogara 4½

Biljoradeck 16

To a station on the hills of Ummesogeir: said to be 40
hours, _or more_, say 41½

To Ummesogeir 5

Siwah 20
---
Total 123
---
]

[Footnote 16: The ordinary caravan day of 8 hours, appears to be about 20 _British_ miles, _by the road_; and in _direct_ distance across deserts, about 16¼ or 16½ _Geographic_ miles.]

[Footnote 17:

Siwah to the Valley of _Schiacha_ 23 hours.

To Torfaue 6½

Across the Desert to a watering-place on the border
of Augila 49

To Augila 9
---
Total 87½
---
]

[Footnote 18: Abulfeda and Ptolemy describe it to be so; and Ledyard was told the same at Cairo.]

[Footnote 19: This is the computation:

Hours.

From Augila to the Mountains of _Moraije_ 26

To the Plain of Sultin 18

Across the Plain or Desert of Sultin, &c. to a woody tract,
3 journies; but no account in hours, say 34

To the entrance of the black Harutsch, about 1 day, say 10

To a watering-place in the Harutsch 4

To the end of the black Harutsch, 3½ days; say 40

Through the white Harutsch, 1½ day; say 15

To a watering-place on the borders of Fezzan 4

To Temissa 9

Zuila 6¾

Hamarra 7

Tragan 10¾

Sidi Bisher 8

Mourzouk 3
----
195½

The road distance, at 2¼ British miles per hour, gives 488¾, which, at ¹⁄₂₀ part for windings, as before, would give 463½; or in G. miles about 409. I have deducted 14 for the extraordinary windings and roughness of the paths, in the black Harutsch.

Remains G. miles 395, for the direct distance between Augila and Mourzouk.]

[Footnote 20: Herodotus has a line of distance from Thebes, westward, in intervals of 10 days each, but very inaccurate.]

[Footnote 21: The former statement of the distance, (in the Geog. Herod. p. 167.) is 861. The difference is occasioned by the different modes of projection of the maps; that in Herodotus, being on a spherical projection, the present one being rectilinear.]

[Footnote 22: See Proceed. Afr. Assoc. for 1790, chap. iv.]

[Footnote 23: The road by Sockna, seems to be the _short_ road to _Phazania_, mentioned by Pliny, lib. v. c. 5.]

[Footnote 24: There are several places of the name of _Wadan_, in this Geography; the name designing the conflux of two water-courses, or torrents. Another Wadan is found in the road from Mesurata to Fezzan; and a third, between Fezzan and Bournu.]

[Footnote 25: Mr. Horneman came, on the day before he entered the black Harutsch, to a small wood of _green_ trees. This situation accords with that of Zala, being just midway between Augila and Zuila. No town is known to exist there, at present.]

[Footnote 26: M. D’Anville reckons the distance between Tripoly and Mourzouk 240 G. miles, only: M. Delisle about 280, or less: and Sanuto, who wrote on the African Geography, (A. D. 1588,) 255. Thus, the 289 allowed above, from Mesurata, go beyond the highest calculation hitherto made, from Tripoly, which is yet farther from Mourzouk, than Mesurata is.]

[Footnote 27: Mr. Browne, who did _not_ see the Bahr-bela-ma, was _told_ that it lay a day’s journey to the west of the Natron Lakes; but unless it takes a turn to the west, beyond the point where General A. saw it, he must have been misinformed. See an account of the Bahr-bela-ma in the province of Faiume, in the Geog. Herod. p. 503.

The description of these valleys is to be found in the _Mémoires sur l’Egypte_, p. 212.]

[Footnote 28: This (I am given to understand) is the idea conveyed in the original Journal.]

[Footnote 29: The hills over the valley of Mogara, answer to the hills of _Le Magra_, (perhaps corrupted from _El Mogara_,) of Mr. Beaufoy; Afr. Assoc. 1790, ch. x. and also to the M. _Ogdamus_ of Ptolemy, Afr. Tab. III.]

[Footnote 30: See above, p. 8.]

[Footnote 31: In the Geogr. of Herod. p. 504.]

[Footnote 32: _Ibid._]

[Footnote 33: This is explained in the observations on the alluvions of rivers, in the same book, Section xviii.]

[Footnote 34: My friend, Mr. Morton Pitt, M. P. has proved, by the enumeration of the inhabitants of a country parish in Dorsetshire, that the men of an age _capable_ of bearing arms are _one-fourth_ of the whole community. Mr. Horneman, if I understand him rightly, states the number of _actual_ warriors to be 1500; so that we ought, perhaps, to multiply that number by 5, to get nearer to the total amount of the population.]

[Footnote 35: Edrisi places it at seven journies from Cairo; probably through Faiume.]

[Footnote 36: Geography of Herodot. p. 560, 561.]

[Footnote 37: Most of the modern authors, who have mentioned this Oasis, speak of _ruins_ existing in it. In particular Mr. Browne, p. 133.]

[Footnote 38: (See Proceed. Afr. Assoc. 1790, ch. x.) The sea coast is truly about eight journies from Gegabib: but I know of no place of the name of _Duna_. Derna is twice that distance.]

[Footnote 39: See above, page 108.]

[Footnote 40: Abulfeda speaks both of its dates and its fountains: and Ben Ali informed Mr. Beaufoy, that it was famous for the “_abundance_ and _flavour_” of its dates. Proceed. Afr. Assoc. ch. x.]

[Footnote 41: Mr. Horneman speaks of three towns in Augila, and Ben Ali adds a fourth town, or village, _Guizara_, situated at one journey to the east of the capital. Hence it agrees with the watering-place to which Mr. Horneman came at nine hours short of Augila. It seems to be also the _Saragma_ of Ptolemy. (Tab. III. Africæ.)]

[Footnote 42: Mr. Horneman saw some remains, which ought to be referred to the time of Mahomedanism.]

[Footnote 43: There are considerable remains of structures, at this day. See Proceed. Afr. Assoc. 1790, chap. iv.]