Chapter II: Part 2

I now soon found myself happily situated in the house of Colonel du B⸺, with whom I proposed to remain, until the approach of spring might invite me to pursue my tour, and under the expectation, in the interim, of improving my health, and acquiring a knowledge of the French language. The former point was admirably promoted by the kind attentions, and domestic arrangements, of Madame du B⸺; the latter would not fail to result from so extended a residence in a family wholly unacquainted with English, and where necessity, and the force of habit, must concur in instructing me. I cannot, however, but acknowledge the patient assistance which I received from the whole family; and my views were also promoted by a pretty regular attendance on the lectures delivered at the royal college of this place.

Our domestic circle consisted of M. and Madame du B⸺, their two sons and daughters, with the father and a sister of Madame B⸺. Madame B⸺ was what, in England, we should call a notable woman, who superintended personally the arrangements of housekeeping. The colonel possessed a mechanical taste, which with reading constituted his leading pursuit; he was a hearty feeder, with, however, a supposed indifferent appetite; for instance, he would breakfast, about noon, upon an immense quantity of bread and cold meat, hard dried sausages, or rich _fromage de cochon_, with a large bottle of wine, and afterward complain of a disinclination for his dinner.

But perhaps the more interesting feature of the family group, was Mademoiselle la Sœur. This lady, somewhat advanced beyond the noontide of life, was a diminutive woman, with one eye, and largely attached to the charms of _tabac_, which contributed to give her voice a strong nasal tone; but in addition to this _penchant_ for snuff, she enjoyed also the pleasures of the table; was fond of high-seasoned dishes, onions, garlic, and wine; her converse was of the merry kind; she was fond of whispering into one’s private ear; and with these talents, seemed also wonderfully adapted for sociality, as she cultivated a large circle of acquaintance in the town, and made it a rule to return with a whole budget full of news for our amusement.

Toulouse, in point of extent, is considered the third town in France, but in proportion to that extent, far less populous than many other of its cities: it possesses some good public buildings, as well as modern private houses, but the general appearance is very antiquated; the streets are narrow and dirty, and what is a great annoyance in walking along them, when it rains you are almost sure to be spouted upon from the tops of the houses, in consequence of pipes sticking out to conduct the water towards the middle of the streets.

There are in this city some good squares, particularly the Place Royal, in which are situated the town-house and theatre; the Place St. George; the Place St. Stephen, containing the cathedral; and also the Place de Bourbon, which with its neighbourhood is the more eligible point for the residence of a stranger.

Some of the walks around the town are very fine, but the access to them unpleasant, in consequence of the offensive smells proceeding from the narrow streets in their vicinity; this is particularly the case as you approach the fine bridge over the Garonne.

Lodgings, such as they are, are reasonable, and the necessaries of life, of all kinds, abundant, good, and cheap. The town is supplied with water from the river; this indispensable article being carted about in casks through the streets at all hours. The stranger will also notice a number of asses, which are driven about the town, to supply invalids with their milk.

I declined participating much in the society of the place, but both the French and English residents are sociably inclined. It is not, however, the fashion among the former, to make morning visits, or give dinner parties, but their houses are open for their friends every evening, and on appointed nights they visit in large parties, and amuse themselves with conversation, singing, cards, or dancing.

A theatre was open during a part of the winter, and we had two or three public concerts, as well as a variety of private ones by amateur performers, particularly during the season of the carnival, which finished on the 14th of February, and exhibited all its usual variety of masks, grotesque characters, and buffoonery; these concerts were only given on the Sunday afternoon.

There are a few customs, and points of etiquette, which it may be interesting to notice.

When a stranger arrives at Toulouse, and wishes to enter into society, he leaves his card with the prefect, who, after returning his call, sends him invitations to the public parties, which he gives once or twice in the week, when he has the opportunity of seeing the best company of the place.

On new-years-day, it is the custom (although I believe the same is common to most parts of the continent) to call on all friends, and present the ladies with fruits, toys, trinkets, or _bon-bons_, under some ingenious deceptions, and which it is generally expected, will be accompanied by a salute; therefore if you have an extensive acquaintance, it is indispensable to set out, at an early hour, loaded with smiles, compliments, and presents.

I scarcely feel competent to speak of the various ceremonies of the Gallican church here, but when an Englishman dies, it is customary to send the following notice, to the various residents from his country, requesting their attendance at the funeral.

“M⸺

_Vous êtes prié par M⸺ et M⸺ de leur faire l’honneur d’assister
à l’inhumation de M⸺ qui aura lieu le ⸺ à ⸺ heure du ⸺. Le
convoi sortira de sa maison d’habitation._

_Pax illi ⸺”_

There is only one burial ground for Protestants, at Toulouse, situated at some distance from the city.

Early in February, the news arrived of the death of our late venerable and beloved king; the intelligence was received by the English in this place, with every possible mark of respect, and a public mourning immediately took place.

Soon afterward, the city of Toulouse was thrown into a high state of consternation, in consequence of the assassination of the Duc de Berri; the imaginations of the inhabitants recurred to the sanguinary scenes of the French revolution, in which this town had no small share, and anticipated a return of its horrors. After this event, the following invitation was addressed to the various English residents:

_“Eglise reformée de Toulouse.
Nos tres chers frères en Jesus Christ._

_Vous avez tous gémis sur l’horrible attentat commis sur la
personne de S. A. R. Monseigneur Le Duc de Berri, attentat
qui a privé la France et l’auguste famille des Bourbons,
de leur espoir le plus précieux; nous vous invitons à vous
rendre vendredi 24 de ce mois, à onze heure du matin, dans le
temple, pour exprimer, devant Dieu, la vive douleur que nous en
èprouvons._

_Les Membres du Consistoire.
CHABRAND, President, &c. &c. &c.”_

_Toulouse, le 22 Mars, 1820._

This city abounds with beggars, many of them objects of real charity; as it is impossible that persons with limited incomes, can afford a sous for each, it is not unusual to give them one, and take change out of it.

The winter proved unusually severe; from the middle of November to the end of December, it continued wet; from this time to the latter part of February, it was excessively cold; and at the end of January, the ground was covered with snow for a fortnight together. For an uninterrupted week, during some part of the twenty-four hours, Fahrenheit’s thermometer stood at from 9° to 11° below Zero. The Garonne for the first time for thirty years, was frozen over, the ice being found to the thickness of nine inches. The end of March, and beginning of April, however, became so fine and warm in the middle of the day, as to make walking irksome.

I now began to contemplate breaking up my winter quarters, in order to proceed to Montpellier. On inquiry, I found two modes of conveyance to this place, one by the Grand Canal de Languedoc, the other by diligence; and having made my arrangements for being conveyed by the latter, I prepared, on the 13th of April, to bid adieu to Toulouse.

I must not, however, leave this city, without paying a due tribute of respect to the worthy family with whom I have been resident, whose innumerable acts of kindness, and attention to a whimsical invalid, will ever claim his gratitude.

But let me not exclude my English friends from this expression of feeling. Mrs. W⸺ and Miss S⸺ are, in particular, entitled to my sincerest acknowledgments; and who were not only the first to receive me at Toulouse, but the last to take leave of me. They will ever retain a place in the recollections of a grateful heart.

CHAP. VI.

MONTPELLIER.

We left Toulouse in the afternoon, and travelling during the whole night, reached Narbonne on the following day for dinner; at nine o’clock in the evening we halted for a short time at Beziers, where we were left, under cover from a heavy rain, in a kind of stable-yard, while our conducteur transacted some business in the town. After this we again proceeded throughout the night, and at day-break arrived in sight of the Mediterranean Sea, afterward reaching Montpellier about ten o’clock.

On leaving the coach, I accompanied a gentleman with whom I had been acquainted at Toulouse, and who had been a fellow-traveller on the present occasion, to his lodgings in this town; but on his arrival, he met with the following disappointment. During his absence, on legal business, he had permitted some friends to occupy his rooms, one of whom happened to die in his best chamber. Now it is customary in France, on such an occasion, to burn the bedding and other furniture, and in case of this happening in lodgings, the friends of the deceased are expected to pay for them; the charge, in the present instance, was eight hundred francs, and the furniture had not been replaced; my friend, therefore, was induced to provide himself with fresh rooms: formerly this was not the only tax upon the property of a foreigner who died in France, for by the _droit d’Aubaine_, which has only been abolished since the return of Louis XVIII., his whole property became confiscated to the King, under the erroneous idea that it must have been acquired in his dominions.

For the first three days, I lived with this gentleman at his lodgings, having however my sleeping-room at the Hotel de Midi; after which time, I had the good fortune to place myself in the family of Madame the Countess de M⸺, who occupied a noble mansion, agreeably situated near the town, replete with every convenience, and comprising beautiful gardens, embellished with terrace walks, fountains, and a _bosquet_, where, to my surprise, the nightingale sang all day long. For some reason or other, Madame found it convenient to dispose of a part of her house; one portion was occupied by two French officers with their families, and another by a Russian officer. The suites of apartments were, however, perfectly distinct, and there was little intercourse between the above and her own family, which inhabited the better part of the house, and consisted of herself, two daughters, and a relative, M. de C⸺.

I was exceedingly happy in this family, and with the friend who accompanied me from Toulouse, made various excursions into the surrounding neighbourhood; we particularly enjoyed the walks on the banks of the river and lake, where the air was much cooler and more agreeable, than on the road, at this time becoming dusty and troublesome. The scenery, about two or three miles from the city, is said to be romantically beautiful. On our return, we used, occasionally, to take a warm bath, which was peculiarly refreshing, and with respect to which, I noticed a luxury, which I had never before remarked,—namely, a clean sheet thrown over the surface of the bath, which you descend into, and are enveloped in.

There are also some delightful public walks about the town, as the Perût, whence is a view of the Mediterranean, and Cevennes mountains; the esplanade; and the botanic gardens. The city is also surrounded by boulevards, of which I was able to make the tour in forty minutes. The markets at Montpellier are well supplied with meats and fish of all kinds; with poultry, vegetables, and fruits in abundance. The _vin ordinaire_ of the country, is termed vin de St. George, which is good, and full bodied, and sold from the cask as low as five or six sous the full quart bottle, although, after bottling and refining, the wine merchant charges twenty sous for a small wine quart. There is, however, another sort, termed vin de Lednon, which is lighter, but highly flavoured, and consequently more estimated, selling at thirty sous the bottle. A variety of other wines may also be procured.

Montpellier has a theatre, to which it is singular that the officers in the garrison here, are obliged to subscribe, whether they attend it or not; besides the above, there are a great variety of other amusements.

Madame de M⸺, and her eldest daughter, went one evening to a ball given by general B⸺, where the young lady had the fortune to make a conquest of an officer, with whom she danced; on the following day he paid her a visit, and shortly after made his proposals in form, which were accepted; after this, according to the custom of that part of the country, he was considered as one of the family, which was an additional pleasure to me, as he was a sensible gentleman-like companion. The marriage, however, did not take place until after my departure from Montpellier.

This love affair leads me to relate an affecting, romantic, and even tragical incident, which occurred in the family of Madame M⸺, during my residence with her.

Her youngest daughter, Clementine, was a lovely girl, about seventeen years of age; but, alas! it is impossible that I can do justice to charms which it was forbidden me to behold! A young gentleman one day walking accidently near the house, observed this interesting girl leading a goat, tied with a string, over a rising ground, near the bosquet; struck with her beauty and simplicity, his imagination took fire, and a passion the most ardent possessed his soul; his constant delight was to wander near the spot which contained the object of his affections, and amply was he repaid, when he could thus steal a glimpse of her beloved form. But he was soon compelled to tear himself away to prosecute his studies in Paris; her image pursued him, and dwelt incessantly within his mind; and he returned to Montpellier with unabated affection. The diffidence so characteristic of pure and ingenuous love, prevented him, for a time, from declaring his passion; at length, however, he summoned sufficient resolution to demand an interview with the countess, but as he refused to send up his name and object, she declined seeing him; in a while he repeated the call, declaring that he had something particular to communicate, but still refusing to give his name; the countess consequently again refused to see him, but sent Clementine to inquire the nature of his business.

Those who know how to love, may imagine his sensations, on finding the object of his ardent passion, thus unexpectedly placed before him; his perturbation amounted to a stupid confusion; he was incapable of utterance; and the unconscious maid left him without receiving the least explanation. His only consolation was now to repeat his wanderings around her habitation. One night I was myself alarmed by the sound of footsteps under my window, and for some time laboured under the impression, that an attempt was making upon the house. It was the unfortunate lover; who frequently spent whole nights around the spot, where he first saw his adored mistress.

On the morning of the 24th of June, I was disturbed from my sleep, by the sound of many persons talking in the house and garden, in a manner which convinced me that something dreadful had occurred; I immediately hurried on my clothes, and hastened to ascertain the cause, when, on opening the door of my room, which led into the hall, Mademoiselle de M⸺ instantly advanced towards me in tears, exclaiming, in the most pitiful tone, that a gentleman had killed himself in the garden, and then proceeding with the following relation: That her mother having risen early for the purpose of bathing, while the bath was in preparation, had walked into the garden in company with M. de C⸺, who was just returned from a party in the town, with whom he had been passing the preceding night; that, at this juncture, they saw through some bushes, a gentleman sitting on the grass, and whom she was on the point of approaching to accost, when he rose up, took out a large knife, and plunged it into his breast. M. de C⸺ immediately sprang across the path, exclaiming, “Mon Dieu! Mon ami, why have you done this!” The only reply from the unfortunate man was, “Clementine! Clementine!” The countess ran to procure assistance, and the whole house was soon in confusion. The most sympathizing inquiries were made into the motives for committing so rash a deed, when, exhausted with loss of blood, he exclaimed, “Ah! Clementine! for you I die! I feel you can never be mine, nor can I live without you!” He was now conveyed to a neighbouring house; a surgeon and the police officers soon arrived; the former reported, that the knife had been turned aside by a rib, but that he was in imminent danger. The police officer then proceeded in his duty, emptying his pockets, and conveying their contents to the Bureau. A letter was found, directed to Madame de M⸺, with another enclosed for Clementine, and I was informed they were both written with very great propriety, and expressive of his unhappy passion.

I quitted Montpellier a week after this event, at which time, the unfortunate lover continued in a hopeless state.

Both as sources of amusement and instruction, I frequently attended the lectures on chemistry, mineralogy, and botany, at the college, and had reason to feel gratified by the general attention paid me, both by the professors and students. Montpellier appears a most desirable situation for prosecuting a course of study, as it abounds with excellent public lectures, literary societies, and good libraries. In short, it must be an agreeable winter’s residence under any circumstances,—to those who wish to be gay, it offers a continual routine of balls, plays, and other amusements, public as well as private; and the valetudinarian will find as pure air, and agreeable walks and rides, as he can desire.

The time I had allotted for my residence at this delightful place, was now drawing to a close, and having provided a fresh supply of Herries and Farquhar’s notes, from my punctual and obliging bankers in London, I prepared to proceed to Aix in Provence, where I proposed to bathe for the remainder of the summer, staying a few days only at Nismes, on my way.

I shall avail myself of this opportunity of recommending to travellers the superior advantages of Herries and Farquhar’s notes, in preference to letters of credit, and which I cannot do better than state in their own words.

“The object of this plan is to supply travellers with money, whenever they may require it, without there being any necessity of determining the route beforehand. For this purpose, a correspondence is established with all the principal places of Europe. The traveller is furnished with a general letter or order, addressed to the different agents of the house, which letter, while it serves to identify him, gives a claim to any attention or good offices he may stand in need of.”

A variety of clear and explicit arrangements are made, to facilitate the immediate supplies of the traveller, whenever he may need them; and excellent precautions adopted, to prevent forgeries, impositions, and the extravagant expenses, commissions, and discounts, which attend the negotiation of bills on merchants’ houses.

CHAP. VII.

NISMES.

A short time before my departure from Montpellier, I had the misfortune to sprain my ancle, which abridged materially my usual pleasure of walking, but did not prevent me pursuing my original intention of proceeding to Aix.

M. de C⸺ was kind enough to accompany me to the coach, and, with the best possible motives, recommended me to the care of the passengers and conducteur, but which I must admit I would rather have declined, as it disarmed me of that independence I wished to feel; I fancied it was placing me in the light of a school-boy; or perhaps of a package of “_Glass.—Keep this side uppermost._” I would prefer being treated with the little ceremony of a woolpack, which by its accommodating elasticity, not only avoids injury from slighter contact, but under more decided and ruder pressure, becomes so solid, so confirmed, so compact, as effectually to oppose additional restraint, and probably at length by its innate powers, to throw off the superincumbent weight, and immediately regain its original state; in short, I find less difficulty, and inconvenience, in travelling amongst strangers, than people imagine, and prefer being left to my own resources; habit has given me the power of acquiring, by a kind of undefinable tact, as correct ideas of objects as the most accurate descriptions would give; and unbiassed by the opinions of others, I feel more facility in forming my estimates of human nature.

After an unpleasant journey, owing to the heat of the weather and fulness of the coach, and passing through the neat town of Lunelle, famous for its wines, we arrived about noon at Nismes, where I took up my residence at a traiteur’s, in a particularly airy situation near the esplanade; this situation I felt of importance, as from its position on an extensive plain, this city suffers intolerably from the heats of summer.

On the following day, being Sunday, I attended divine service at one of the Protestant churches, in company with Mrs. and Miss L⸺, with whom I had previously been acquainted at Toulouse and Montpellier; we were shewn into the corporation seat, and I am afraid gave much trouble to its proper occupiers, who, with great politeness, incommoded themselves to accommodate us. We were much pleased with the discourse of the preacher, as well as the indications of devotion on the part of the congregation.

Nismes abounds with Protestants, who indeed constitute a large proportion of its more industrious and opulent population; a circumstance to which the sanguinary political scenes, of which it has so frequently been the theatre, are to be attributed. The Roman religion has undoubtedly a tendency to check the energetic industry of its professors, by the encouragement which its numerous fêtes give to habits of amusement, idleness, and dissipation; and, alas! it is too correspondent with the dispositions of fallen human nature, for rapine and fraud to spring out of such vitiated soil, and avail themselves of the advantages attained by honest industry.

But far be it from me, to decry the importance of religious observances, and rational relaxation from the toils of suffering humanity; or to throw the least censure on that admirable and divine institution, which, according to our admired Spectator, rubs off the rust of the preceding week, and leads the poor man to a close acquaintance with his best friend. The institutions of catholicism, or rather papalism, are in this respect essentially contradictory to the divine command, which has solemnly declared, amidst the awful denunciations of Mount Sinai,—“Six days shalt thou labour; but the seventh day is the sabbath of the Lord thy God;” for who of its more strict professors does not pay as much religious observance to the fifth day, as to the one indicated by the merciful Creator.

While at Nismes, my ancle proved extremely painful, and I felt otherwise indisposed, so as to be incapable for a time of taking my usual walks; I was, in consequence, induced to consult a French apothecary, who had talked me into a favourable opinion of his skill, by expatiating, in what I considered a philosophical way, upon the virtues of his medicines. I was, consequently, placed upon a course of _ptisan refraichissant_, without which French practice would be at a loss, but which, begging the pardon of this French Æsculapius, although it might do very well in mild cases, I should be loath to intrust my safety to in a desperate one, where nature might possibly want urging forward, or severe correction, rather than treating with such a complaisance; so much for my smattering of physic: but, notwithstanding, I must do my _apoticaire_ the justice to admit, that with the aid of his ptisan, and other means, I was in a few days sufficiently improved to be able to resume, in some measure, my customary walks.

Nismes, originally the Nemausum of the Romans, is a city of considerable antiquity, of which sufficient remains are still to be found, to attest its former grandeur.

I visited some of these august remains, particularly the celebrated amphitheatre, built in the Tuscan order, of such size as to have been capable of containing twenty thousand spectators. It is considered one of the finest monuments of antiquity, and has survived the ravages of nearly twenty centuries. I had also that exquisite piece of Corinthian architecture described to me, now termed the _Maison Quarrée_, which exhibits some of the most beautiful specimens of architecture still existing, and which had been supposed by many to have been built by the Emperor Hadrian, a great benefactor to this city, but by an inscription, discoverable to that effect, is now proved to have been erected by the good people of Nismes in honour of the two young princes, Caius and Lucius Cæsar, grandsons of Augustus, by his daughter Julia, the wife of Agrippa.

A number of peculiar large square basins, which the common people use to bathe in, are to be seen at Nismes, near the public walk named the _Coursè_; they are placed at equal distances from each other, and formed by enlargements of a canal that runs through them, the water supplying which, issues from under the rock on which the castle stands; after passing through these reservoirs, the stream is conducted, by pipes and smaller canals, throughout the town, and converted to different purposes of economy and manufacture.

Anxious for the benefit I expected to derive from the waters of Aix, I hastened my departure from Nismes on the 11th of July. I had only a single companion in the diligence, an interesting young student of seventeen or eighteen years of age, on his way from college to meet some friends at Beaucaire, and as highly delighted with his emancipation from scholastic trammels, as a young midshipman at going on shore after a long cruise. At one place we took a glass of liqueur together, and on my offering to pay for it, he laughed at me, and said I was joking. At eight o’clock we reached Beaucaire, where he left me. At this place great preparations were making for the annual fair, which lasts about three weeks, and is of much importance, as merchants attend it from all parts of Europe.

We here crossed the Rhone on a bridge of boats, and proceeded through Tarrascon. At midnight we stopped for supper, when a cold chicken being produced, the conducteur contrived to dispose, with great celerity, of the larger part of it, leaving only a leg and wing for my share; after this, a most exorbitant demand was made upon me, being charged with the whole fowl, and the bottle of wine, although I had only shared a couple of glasses of the latter; but following the example of my young friend the student, I joked them into reason, and offering half the money, they thought proper to be contented with it. I am convinced, from experience, that this is a better mode, than arguing a point of charge passionately with a French innkeeper; hear with patience his torrent of explanation, and then putting on your gloves coolly, reply with a smile, “I dare say you are right, my good friend, but I make it a rule never to pay so much, and cannot do it now.” Above all, take care that you do not, like Smollet, give a louis to change, and then ask them what you have to pay; first, get your change, and then only part with your gold. But the best way of all to prevent disputes, is to make a bargain beforehand.

About seven in the evening I arrived at Aix, and had the pleasure of meeting my friend Mr. W⸺, with a brother of his, lately arrived from England, and also some of my fair countrywomen, with whom I had been acquainted at Toulouse, and who had passed me at Montpellier.

CHAP. VIII.

AIX—MARSEILLES.

Mr. W⸺ pressed me to take up my residence at Aix with himself and his brother, but I was still too anxious to pursue my studies of the French language, and character, amongst the natives, to accept of his offer; notwithstanding, it was impossible that I could have been placed more satisfactorily to my feelings; his general information and good sense, highly qualified him to impart knowledge, and his uncommon urbanity of manners, made it particularly delightful to receive it from him.

“How much in every state man owes
To what kind courtesy bestows,
To that benign engaging art,
Which decorates the human heart;
To every act it gives a grace,
And adds a smile to every face;
E’en goodness ’self we better see,
When drest by gentle courtesy.”

I availed myself, however, of my friend’s kindness, until I succeeded in procuring accommodations in a French family, accustomed to receive students in the law _en pension_. These gentlemen, however, only made their appearance at meal-times, nor did the resident family associate with us according to my expectation; I felt disappointed, and after staying ten days determined to change my quarters.

It was not easy to find a family like that of the Countess de M⸺, at Montpellier, particularly at this season, when every one who could afford to support the smallest establishment in the country, was, on account of the excessive heat, gone out of town. At length I fixed myself with Madame R⸺, the widow of an officer of dragoons, with three children, the eldest a girl of fourteen. A rich old gentleman, her cousin, M. B⸺, also resided with her, and they kept, in conjunction, two carriages and three horses, and occupied three different country houses.

I had the pleasure, one day, of accompanying Madame R⸺ on horseback, to visit one of her country seats, and was not a little surprised to find that she rode after the manner of gentlemen, with a horse-cloth doubled under her, instead of a saddle. It is, however, seldom that ladies in France ride on horseback, and they were not a little astonished, after the peace, to see our fair countrywomen riding in their usual manner with side-saddles, an accommodation they were not familiar with. I must acknowledge, I should not have liked exhibiting in the same way in Hyde Park; we did not, however, pass through the town in this manner, for our horses were led out of it before we mounted, and on our return, we dismounted before re-entering it.

A few days after my arrival, I commenced using the mineral baths of Aix, which I persevered in during my residence, and I think with much advantage, although I could not bear drinking the waters, which I fancied to be of a chalybeate nature; I endeavoured, but in vain, to get a correct analysis of them; the resident physician, appointed by government, either could not, or would not inform me; he referred me to a large octavo volume, sold at the baths, but I found it contain nothing except eulogies on their virtues, in almost every disease to which the human body is incidental. The temperature of the water is about 97° Fahrenheit.

The baths are situated in the Fauxbourg, or higher part of the town; the best situation for the invalid who wishes to take advantage of them, is near the Hotel de Prince, on the Coursé, which is the pleasantest part of the town.

The Coursé, is a double walk, with rows of lime-trees on both sides, and a carriage road between them; these walks form the fashionable promenade of the place on a summer’s evening. There are also good boulevards; Aix upon the whole, however, is defective in public walks, and the streets are narrow and very dirty. It is far from being an agreeable residence in summer, as the town is empty and dull; and in winter it is cold, in consequence of its situation on an extensive plain, exposed to the _vents de bise_ from the neighbouring mountains.

There is a line cathedral at Aix, one of the doors of which is considered an exquisite piece of workmanship; in consequence, it is preserved in a case, and a particular application required to get admitted to a sight of it. I attended the service of the cathedral one fête day, and heard some very fine vocal and instrumental music.

The college here is as famous for law, as that of Montpellier for physic; and there is a public library which contains some English books, presented by one of our countrymen. The town also possesses a museum of natural history, and some good private collections of paintings.

My intercourse was chiefly confined to the family with which I resided, and a few English friends; I am, therefore, unable to say much respecting the social habits of the place, but understood that it was by no means defective in these respects; although there are no public amusements during the summer, the winter brings with it theatrical, and other entertainments.

Provisions are abundant and cheap, and the bread is so excellent as to be sent in large quantities to other places.

I was anxious to visit the celebrated city of Marseilles, distant only fifteen miles, and proceeded with Mr. H. W⸺, and another gentleman, to put this design in execution; on our arrival we placed ourselves at the Hotel des Ambassador, in the Rue Beauveau, near the Place Moliere, where the theatre stands.

The commerce of this great mercantile city was at this time much depressed, owing to the heavy duties imposed upon goods imported by American vessels; which however they managed to evade, in some degree, by unshipping their cargoes at Nice, or Genoa, into French coasters.

We visited the coral manufactory; the corals used in which, are said to be very fine, and brought by the fishermen direct from the coast of Barbary; I should have been glad to have purchased some, but was apprehensive of imposition, and, moreover, found that I could not take them into Italy, and elsewhere, without paying very heavy duties, or incurring great risk of seizure.

It is customary at Marseilles, for the inhabitants in great numbers, to go to the outsides of the harbour early in the morning to bathe, for which purpose the females take the left hand, and the men the right. We were induced to follow this good example, and found the bathing delightful; we were carried by boats into about five feet water, with a fine sandy bottom, and steps were then thrown out to enable us conveniently to get into the water, and out again; but I preferred throwing myself from off the gunwale and diving for some yards, after which, I swam out to sea, to the astonishment of my friends and the surrounding strangers, who were rendered sensible of my loss of sight, by my occasionally calling out to ascertain the direction of the boat.

On the eve of our return to Aix, Mr. H. W⸺, a spirited young naval officer, determined to repeat his bathing in the close of the evening, and notwithstanding our solicitations to the contrary, insisted upon going alone, although quite unacquainted with the French language. His impetuosity led him into an adventure, which might have terminated in fatal results, and, at all events, compelled us to hasten our departure, under circumstances in some degree equivocal. On quitting his boat, he offered the man who belonged to it, the same remuneration he had on former occasions paid, which however was refused; my friend walked off, and the man followed him, talking loudly in an unintelligible manner; at length he laid hold of him by the skirt of his coat, when W⸺, turning round, knocked him down; a mob soon collected, who taking the boatman’s part, proceeded to beat our young friend most unmercifully, and probably would have murdered him, had not some gentlemen interfered and extricated him; one of these had the kindness to accompany him home, and requested we would not venture into the streets, until the affair had been arranged with the police, to whom he offered to accompany us on the following morning. We acknowledged his kindness, but concealed our intention of quitting Marseilles at five o’clock in the morning; in short, we thought it better to avail ourselves of this chance of getting rid of the affair, not however, without some apprehension of being pursued.

In fact, in two or three days after our return to Aix, it was announced, that a person from Marseilles was enquiring for two gentlemen who had lately been at the Hotel des Ambassador, in that place; we immediately pictured to our imaginations, a police officer, with a warrant in his hand, but it proved to be one of the waiters, who had called to apprise us of a mistake of six francs, against us, in making out our bill, which we paid with much satisfaction, as flattering ourselves that we had now fully outwitted the police.

The month of September having considerably advanced, and the weather becoming sensibly colder, I began to think of suspending the use of the hot baths, and removing to a milder climate. I had the pleasure, however, of thinking my health materially improved, my eyes in particular felt lighter, and I fancied that I could occasionally discern a flash of light from the under part of the left one. I selected Nice for my winter’s residence, and on the 14th of September left Aix in the diligence, for Antibes, taking leave of the last town in France, where I proposed making any extended residence.

It is not easy to describe my emotions in quitting a people, with whose language and habits I was now becoming well acquainted, and to whom I felt a degree of attachment, grounded, if not upon congeniality of sentiment, at least upon a grateful sense of repeated acts of kindness, and attention, which I had experienced from them.

It is true, that I was fully alive to all the anticipated enjoyments of a land of promise; the favoured Italy, highly gifted by nature and art; the cradle of genius; the birth-place of poets, orators, and warriors; and once the sole arbitress of the fate of the world.

I sought consolation in reflections of this nature, and in repeating the lines of a favourite poet.

“Hope must brighten days to come
While memory gilds the past.”

CHAP. IX.

JOURNEY TO NICE.

On leaving Aix, our coach, besides myself, contained two gentlemen, sons of General M⸺, who had been residing for eight years at a college near Toulouse. We breakfasted at Luc, where we took up two or three more passengers; from hence we passed on to Frejus, and thence over the Estralès, formerly noted for numerous banditti. At Cannes General M⸺ came out with his daughter, in his carriage, to meet his sons, whom we here parted from. The remaining passengers also quitted us about this time, so that before we entered Antibes I had the whole carriage to myself.

At Antibes I got my passport signed, to enable me to enter his Sardinian majesty’s dominions; but this gave little trouble, as a person negotiated the affair for the remuneration of one franc.

I remained at the inn where the diligence put up, in consequence of finding that the one for Nice set off from it on the following morning. I got my supper at the table d’hôte, in company with two or three officers; the fare was very indifferent, and the charge exorbitant, in consequence of not having made my bargain beforehand.

After supper I retired early to bed, in hopes of compensating for my loss of sleep on the preceding night in the coach; but, alas! I reckoned without my host, for it proved a night of misery; a multitude of mosquitoes tormented me without intermission, and with joy did I welcome the arrival of the moment, which announced that the diligence was preparing to depart.

At four o’clock we left the inn, but the town-gates were yet closed, and some time elapsed before they were opened to us; at length an officer came and accomplished this with military ceremony; but we were still unable to proceed, for a whole drove of asses and mules, laden with fruits, vegetables, &c. had stationed themselves in the pass on the other side, and began to enter amidst the smacking of whips, and hallooing of muleteers; this occupied at least ten minutes.

Shortly afterward we took up a man who had fought in the battle of Trafalgar, but was now a _traiteur_ at Nice, and had been into the country to purchase grapes, in order to manufacture his own wine: he seemed pleased on discovering that I had served in the British navy, of which he spoke very highly.

We now arrived on the banks of the Var, which separates the kingdoms of France and Sardinia, and, with little interruption from the custom-house officers, immediately crossed the frontiers.

We here received the addition to our party, of two very genteel ladies and a gentleman, who proved for the remainder of the journey, most agreeable companions; I was so much interested in their conversation, that, almost without being sensible of the progress, we arrived at the Hotel des Etranger, at Nice.

I am unwilling, finally, to take my leave of France, without expressing an opinion of the character of a people, with whom I had been so long resident; the unfavourable circumstances, however, under which only I could contemplate them, make me diffident in advancing my opinion, as I am fully conscious of an inability to give the picture that energy and justice of colouring which it requires. I shall, therefore, confine myself to a few general remarks.

There is something highly fascinating in the exterior, manners, and converse of a Frenchman; courteous in his behaviour, he evinces a strong desire to please and be pleased; but although he manifests the speciousness of ardent friendship, his heart is not the soil, in which this quality is capable of taking a firm and unshaken root; as soon as the source, from which it has emanated, and been supported, ceases to be present, the previous impressions disappear, and a void is offered for the reception of new ones, equally vivid, but equally superficial.

This mixture of susceptibility and indifference makes the Frenchman a gay and pleasing, but, at the same time, an uncertain companion; he does not, like the Englishman, dwell on the enjoyments of the past, and entangle his mind with useless and prolonged regrets, but is ever ready to enliven new scenes of social intercourse; in short, he can ill sustain a state of _tristesse_, which he considers all his reflecting moments, and whether thrown into contact with his countrymen, or strangers, is a sensualist in his social feelings, and must seek for pleasure and amusement, for in this “he lives and has his being,” and that man is his dearest friend, who most contributes to his gratification.

With respect to the fair sex, they are generally lively and fascinating, and possessed of susceptible feelings, capable of being converted into strong attachments. These are some of the essential requisites for forming an amiable, and virtuous character; but, alas! the good is perverted by the influence of an injudicious and trifling system of education, extended at most to superficial literary acquisitions, which barely serve for the dictation of an ungrammatical _billetdoux_, or the copying of a song. The most devoted attention is given to the art of pleasing, and the study of dress, which, with the auxiliaries of music and embroidery, form the leading occupations of young French females.

In conversation they are acute, playful, and frequently sensible, but it cannot be wondered at, when the defects of education are taken into account, that there should be little which sinks deep into the heart, and leaves an impression, or promise, of future matron-like virtue.

Many ladies, however, are educated in convents, where they acquire a temporary spirit of bigotry, which wears off after they return into the world, and frequently leaves behind it a proportionate want of religious feeling.

They, generally, marry young enough to enable a judicious husband to form a character if defective, or to correct it if deformed; but here they are truly to be pitied; for they soon experience a culpable neglect from those men who ought to be their inseparable protectors and advisers, and who, preferring the society of others, leave them incautiously to their own pursuits and feelings. Is it to be wondered at that they should cease to cultivate the domestic virtues?

To conclude; the French female contains within her those principles, which, under proper cultivation, would produce excellent wives, and estimable women; and it is a serious reflection upon the national character, that such principles should be sacrificed by the indifference, and neglect of those whose duty, as well as interest it is, to elicit and establish her virtues.

CHAP. X.

ST. ROSALIE.

My first object, on arriving at Nice, was to ascertain whether Mr. L⸺, lately one of my acquaintance at Aix, was yet at Nice, where he had been for a time residing, and of which I was doubtful, as I knew that he was about this time intending to proceed farther into Italy. I had been apprised that I should hear of him at the house of Madame M⸺ at St. Rosalie, about a mile and a half distant from the town; and, as I was aware that he had paved the way to an introduction for me to this lady, I procured a valet-de-place to conduct me thither. I had the happiness to find him still in the neighbourhood, residing at a very short distance from Madame M⸺, although on the point of proceeding on his proposed tour.

Through his recommendation, I was immediately received as an inmate in the family of Madame M⸺, consisting of herself, two daughters, and a young English lady, Miss T⸺.

The mansion of this lady was an attachment to the adjoining church of St. Rosalie, now fallen into disuse, except as a family storeroom; the bells, and other ecclesiastical articles, had been presented by Madame, to the neighbouring church of Cimea, formerly a Roman settlement, with still some interesting remains of an amphitheatre, baths, aqueduct, and a temple of Apollo; and amongst which, ancient coins are still occasionally discovered.

The domain of St. Rosalie is delightfully situated, and furnished with shady walks, which offer a cool retreat amidst the severest heats of summer: there was one formed of trellis-work, over-shadowed with the vine, which was peculiarly grateful; here we frequently walked during the heats of the day, or amused ourselves with the pleasures of reading; to gratify my inclination for which my amiable companion Miss T⸺ would kindly devote many hours of the day to the perusal of such authors as most interested me; indeed I can never express sufficient gratitude for the many sacrifices she made for my accommodation and amusement.

We here proposed to continue, until the nearer approach of winter, would make a town-residence more agreeable. Our time passed away in the most happy manner; Madame was busily occupied by the vintage, and in laying up a stock of fruits, preserves, &c. in which the young ladies occasionally assisted; nor could I remain an idle personage, and I proved myself far more dexterous in cutting down the bunches of grapes, than my companions were willing to have given me credit for. It was necessary that as little time as possible, should be lost in this operation, as exposure to wet, during the gathering of the grapes, injures the flavour of the wine: we succeeded in completing our task in two days.

The process of making the wine is as follows:—The grapes being selected and picked, are put into a large vat, where they are well trodden down by the naked feet; after which, the liquor is drawn off from below; the bruised grapes are then put into a press, and the remaining liquor extracted. The whole of the juice is now transferred into casks with their bungs open, and allowed to ferment, and discharge its impurities for twelve, fifteen, or twenty days, according to the strength of the grape; the waste occasioned by the discharge being constantly supplied with fresh liquor. The casks are then carefully closed, and in about a month the wine is considered fit for drinking.

When the grapes are of a bad, meagre kind, the wine-dealers mix the juice with quicklime, in order to give it a spirit which nature has denied, or, possibly, to take off acidity.

About this time, Dr. Skirving, an English physician, whom I had the pleasure of knowing in Edinburgh, and an intimate acquaintance of Madame M⸺, arrived with a view of establishing himself in practice at Nice. He had originally become known at this place, in consequence of having been detained in it by the illness of a friend, who in an intended voyage from Civita Vecchia to Marseilles, ruptured a blood-vessel on his lungs, by the exertions of sea-sickness, and was compelled to make this port, where, after lingering some months, he died. Pleased with the situation, and at the solicitations of his friends, he determined to make Nice his permanent residence, and having arranged his affairs in England, was now arrived to carry the plan into execution.

With a cultivated and liberal mind, Dr. S⸺ is possessed of superior professional abilities; I had the pleasure of witnessing an interesting recovery, under his care, in the person of a lady who had an abscess on her lungs. At one time she was considered so near dissolution, that some of her friends were importunate to have the last consolations of religion administered to her; but my friend, aware of the danger of agitating her mind at this critical moment, entreated that the measure might be deferred, and she was afterward restored to comparative good health. If any apology is necessary for this digression, it must be placed to the score of the warmest friendship; indeed, I should feel myself ungrateful, did I neglect to acknowledge this gentleman’s undeviating kindness to myself.

The 15th of October now arrived, which, being St. Therese’s day, was the fête of Madame M⸺, as well as the anniversary of my birth. The former circumstance it may be necessary to explain. It is customary in this country to name children after some favourite saint, to whose especial protection they may thus be supposed to be committed; and hence, when the annual fête of their patron arrives, it is made a day of congratulation to themselves.

When it happens to be the fête of the father, or mother of a family, their children prepare a nosegay, and bring it to them the first thing in the morning, presenting it with some pretty and appropriate address; after which, the day is spent in innocent pastime and amusement. But the above tokens of respect are not confined to the children; the friends, and dependants, also participate in offering them. In the present instance, I prepared my nosegay, and offered it to my fair hostess with undefinable sensations of pleasure, and of course did not allow so favourable an opportunity to pass, without adding that well-merited compliment, which politeness, and gratitude for her attentions prompted. Now Madame was a pretty little sensible woman, who knew how to receive a compliment from a gentleman, in a graceful and agreeable manner; and, I really cannot wonder that the priests should appoint so many fêtes, if they are to be attended with such agreeable circumstances to them, as I experienced on this occasion.

Soon after this, the peasantry employed on Madame M⸺’s estate, came with their nosegays, accompanied by presents of fruit, and were regaled with breakfast; the day unfortunately proved rainy, or we should have enjoyed a dance on the green. We had afterward a party to dinner; and the evening concluded with singing, and other amusements. On Madame M⸺’s brother being requested to sing he favoured us with the following, first drawing his chair close to that of Miss T⸺, to whom he appeared to address the sentiment.

J’avais juré que de l’amour
Je ne porterais plus la chaine,
Redoutant les maux qu’il entraî
Je voulais le fuir sans retour
Mais de sa puissance divine,
Tout mortel se rit vainement.
Lorsque je faisais ce serment
Je n’avais pas vu ma voisine.