Chapter VIII: Part 8

On the following morning, we breakfasted at St. Germano, and passed several rivers, with good modern bridges over them. Whenever we inquired how they came by such fine roads and bridges, the reply always attributed them to Bonaparte, so that if he had robbed their churches and monasteries, he had left them many a recompense; and they were willing to admit, that he usefully employed the poor in improving their country, and liberally patronized the arts.

Between seven and eight in the evening, we entered Turin, and in the morning directed our first attention to getting our passports properly arranged for our future journey; with this view we attended the police; and afterwards the Sardinian minister, where they demanded four francs from each of us for his signature. After this we walked about the town, where my friend expressed himself uncommonly pleased with the grandeur, beauty, and regularity of the buildings, streets, squares, and shops. The inhabitants generally addressed us in French, which gave us much the impression of a French town. After dinner we visited the queen’s villa, situated on the top of a hill, half a mile out of the town, in our way to which we crossed the Po (which has its source twenty-five miles above Turin, in the recesses of Monte Viso), over a magnificent bridge of five arches, built by the French, the approach to which was through a noble street, bearing the name of the river, with arcades on either side of it. The villa possesses a most commanding view of the city, river, and country around it, but contains nothing particularly good, except that the gardens are well laid out. After this we returned to the city, and promenaded the bank of the river, but were obliged to desist from extending our ramble by the coming on of a rainy evening. After breakfast the next day, we renewed our examination of the city, visiting the boulevards, and other parts, but were again compelled to return by the weather. On this account we took shelter in a caffé, where we observed in the papers, the first official account of the death of Napoleon, a rumour of which had reached us before we left Florence.

“If thou had’st died as honour dies,
Some new Napoleon might arise
To shame the world again—
But who would soar the solar height,
To set in such a starless night?”

It continued raining the remainder of the day, and we employed ourselves in writing letters, and making preparations for our departure on the morrow, being obliged to forego visiting the churches, palaces, theatres, and other interesting objects of the place. It is true, we looked into two or three churches, but they seemed to possess nothing out of the ordinary way. The streets of Turin, particularly the new part, being laid out at right angles, makes it easy to traverse the town; we could not but notice the thinness of population, notwithstanding we knew the city was proportionally thickly inhabited—this was no doubt to be partly accounted for, from numbers having, during the summer season, retired to their country-seats, and partly to the late political occurrences, which have created a great distrust, and suspicion of those who remained, many of whom were at this time apprehensive of arrest and imprisonment, on account of their conduct or opinions, so that they were afraid to stir from out of their houses—nay, many had actually absconded on these accounts. But I do not profess to detail the political history of the countries I visited.

On Sunday, the 15th of July, we took our leave of Turin, with six new passengers in our voiture. We passed through Rivoli, which has a royal palace, to Ambrogia, where we breakfasted; we now entered defiles of mountains, the road becoming heavy; the rain, however, which had been before incessant through the morning, began to clear off, and we had a fine afternoon, which in some respects compensated for the badness of the roads. A new road from Turin to Susa, has lately been laid out by the Sardinian government, part of which we traversed, but found it at present very uncomfortable, consisting of a mere bed of stones. We reached Susa, about seven o’clock, an ancient town, situated amidst rocky eminences, on the banks of the Dura, here a small stream, but before it reaches Turin, increased into a considerable river.

The town of Susa is more respectable than we had expected to find it, but thinly inhabited, as notwithstanding it was a fine Sunday’s evening, very few people were walking about. My friend remarked, both here and in the places we had passed through this day, that the men were of diminutive stature, and ludicrously dressed, wearing cocked-hats, very long tails, and black breeches, and frequently without either shoes or stockings.

In the morning we set out from Susa at three o’clock, with the voiture drawn by five mules, our driver reserving his horses until we had ascended Mount Cenis. Soon after leaving Susa, we travelled over an alternation of moderate acclivity and level ground, until we passed Novalese, when the road became steep, notwithstanding it was sound and good, and occasionally took a winding direction to diminish the labour of ascent. About half-way up, we passed a miserable village, named Ferrieres. At this point we rested a while, that my friend might contemplate the stupendous and sublime scenery, amidst which we had been for some time making our progress.

“⸺pleas’d at first, the towering Alps we try,
Mount o’er the vales, and seem to tread the sky,
Th’ eternal snows appear already past,
And the first clouds and mountains seem the last,
But those attain’d, we tremble to survey
The growing labours of the lengthened way,
Th’ increasing prospect tires our wand’ring eyes,
Hills peep o’er hills, and alps on alps arise.”

From hence to the summit, we observed several detached habitations at short distances from each other, intended for the residences of the people stationed here by government, to keep open the road during the winter, by clearing away the falls of snow, and rocks which might shelve down from the surrounding mountains; or to give shelter to the way-worn or benighted traveller. These men are thought to be well paid, receiving three francs a day, but they fully deserve it, for their situation is, in my opinion, most unenviable.

My friend observed a gallery cut out of the solid rock, which had formerly been used as a road, but which from apprehension of danger in that direction, had fallen into disuse.

At the top of this mountain is situated a plain termed San Nicolo, a stone terminus placed on which, by its inscription, informs the traveller that he is now quitting Italy, and entering Savoy. Then farewell Italy! we exclaimed;—but I shall leave to the reader’s imagination, the feelings with which we quitted this highly favoured country; nor shall I, for good reasons, attempt to depict the magnificent scene which is to be witnessed from this commanding elevation of six thousand feet above the level of the sea, over the beautiful plains of Piedmont in the distance, with the sublime Alpine features, which were extended around us, and beneath our feet; but in lieu of this, I shall beg leave to introduce the spirited description of Lord Byron, in his translation of Dante’s prophecy.

“Thou, Italy! so fair, that Paradise,
Revived in thee, blooms forth to man restored;
Ah! must the sons of Adam lose it twice?
Thou, Italy I whose ever-golden fields,
Plough’d by the sunbeams solely, would suffice
For the world’s granary; thou, whose sky heaven gilds
With brighter stars, and robes with deeper blue;
Thou, in whose pleasant places summer builds
Her palace, in whose cradle empire grew,
And form’d the eternal city’s ornaments
From spoils of kings whom freemen overthrew;
Birth-place of heroes, sanctuary of saints,
Where, earthly first, then heavenly glory made
Her home; thou, all which fondest fancy paints,
And finds her prior vision but pourtray’d
In feeble colours, when the eye—from the Alp
Of horrid snow, rock, and shaggy shade
Of desert-loving pine, whose emerald scalp
Nods to the storm—dilates, and dotes o’er thee.”

We found the air on Mount Cenis particularly keen, and it failed not to produce a corresponding effect upon our appetites, nor was this to be wondered at, as we had now been travelling seven hours without breakfast. Our driver was, however, quite unwilling to indulge us with a quarter of an hour for the purpose of quieting these sensations; nor did we carry the point, until we insisted upon it peremptorily. After all, we could only get a hasty repast of tea and bread and butter; whereas we were strongly tempted by some beautiful trout, which had just arrived from out of a neighbouring lake of considerable size and unfathomable depth, situated in the centre of the plain.

The plain of San Nicolo is about six miles in length, and four broad; and notwithstanding its great elevation, was at this time free from snow, and covered with flowers and verdure. It is encompassed on all sides by the Alpine ridges, the highest of which rises three thousand feet still above it, and is clothed with eternal snow. It was from the top of this plain that Hannibal is said to have pointed out the rich fields of Italy to his wearied army.

At the distance of about a mile from the inn where we had taken refreshment, we arrived at a fort, within the walls of which stands the convent of Saint Bernard. We were detained here to have our passports examined. On the plain a considerable quantity of stone was lying on the road side, which was white as snow; my companions fancied it marble; it felt, however, to me of closer texture, and both heavier and harder than any marble I had ever met with; I carried off a piece, as a specimen, which proves to be a peculiarly hard sulphate of lime.

At length we began to descend the north side of the mountain, and at the foot of it entered the town of Lanslebourg, where we had our regular breakfast. At this place our party were imposed upon by an old woman, who pretended to be a hundred and seven years of age, and which she professed to prove by a certificate of her grandmother’s baptism, which she passed off as her own; before we left, our landlady exposed the imposition, informing us, that she obtrudes this certificate upon all travellers who pass that way.

The road, this afternoon, was hilly, narrow, and rough; we made, however, only a short stage, stopping to sleep at Modane. The inn at this place was full of Sardinian troops, on which account we took the precaution to have our baggage removed into our bed-rooms, for my friend C⸺ had the cord whipped from off his trunk before he could look around him. We found a peculiar difficulty in explaining our wishes to have this arrangement effected, to the female who waited upon us; my friend, who was a very superior linguist, essayed in vain to make her comprehend our intentions, until at length we discovered that she was both deaf and dumb; she possessed, however, extraordinary acuteness, and could be made to understand almost any thing by signs; she afterwards waited upon us well at supper, and in conveying our luggage to the coach on the following morning.

We breakfasted the next day at St. Jean de Maurienne, a small town, with narrow streets, situated in the middle of the Alps. On our way from hence to Aigue Bella, where we rested for the night, we passed an unfinished fort, which his Sardinian majesty is by treaty compelled to erect at this spot.

Wednesday the 18th was a fine warm day. We breakfasted at Montmelian, famous for its wines, both white and red, and particularly the latter.

Since descending Mount Cenis, the roads have been very indifferent, but the country highly romantic; to-day we passed a number of waterfalls, and repeatedly crossed the river R⸺; at half after one we arrived at Chambery, the capital of Savoy, where we dined, and staid all night. This town is delightfully situated, and has many pleasant walks about it; the streets are, however, narrow, and the pavements bad. We were informed that it abounded with the necessaries of life, which were to be purchased at a reasonable rate. The whole of our journey from Mount Cenis had impressed us with the feeling of being in France, as we heard nothing but that language, and the patois of the country.

Our companions from Turin all quitted us at Chambery; but in the morning we took up two young gentlemen from Lyons, who were going to the baths of Aix; one of them, however, when we had proceeded five miles, found out that he had left his portmanteau behind him at Chambery, and returned to look after it.

We arrived at Aix les Baignes for breakfast, after which we took a cursory view of the town and baths, which were built by the Emperor Gratian, and with both of which we were much pleased. I attempted in vain, to ascertain the nature of the waters; they referred me to a book-seller, who shewed me a treatise in praise of their virtues, but all the information I could gain respecting the point in question, was, that they contained sulphur; which we had previously detected by the test of our noses.

After leaving Aix, we proceeded to Ramilly; about midway between these places is a waterfall on the right, but at a distance from the road, which is visited by most of the strangers who take the waters at Aix.

In the evening we reached Frangy, where, notwithstanding we had travelled by ourselves in the voiture, we were not without a supper party, for we were favoured with the company of no less than four vitturenos. They were so far pleasant company, that they treated us with respect, and amused us with their conversation respecting the number of their passengers, fares, &c.

On Friday, the 20th of July, we set off in great spirits, in the prospect of reaching Geneva for breakfast; soon after leaving Frangy, which lies in a deep galley, we began to ascend a steep mountain, the top of which, it took us four hours to arrive at; this accomplished, we descended again, and shortly afterwards entered Switzerland, that country—

“Where rougher climes a nobler race display;
Where the bleak Swiss their stormy mansion tread,
And force a churlish soil for scanty bread.”

At eleven o’clock we made our entry into the city of Geneva.

CHAP. XXVI.

GENEVA.—LAUSANNE.

On arriving at Geneva, we took up our residence at the Hotel de Corona, and discharged our vittureno, a little dark-looking Savoyard, but with a great oddity of temper, being either in the extreme of sulkiness, or good humour; he was, however, so quietly disposed, that he slept the greater part of the way, either on his horses or in the cabriolet. The manner in which he took his leave of us was singular enough; after inquiring whether we were satisfied with his attentions, and being answered in the affirmative, he proceeded to say that he did not ask for a buona-mana, as he knew such a donative was excluded by our agreement, but that he hoped we would give something, no matter whether a franc or a Napoleon, to _prove_ that we were satisfied with him.

When at Edinburgh, I had formed an acquaintance with a gentleman of this place, Dr. P⸺; one of my first objects was to find him out, and I had the pleasure of succeeding: after expressing much surprise, he kindly offered me his services during our stay at Geneva.

The short time we remained at this interesting place, made it impossible that we could enjoy all the gratifications which it was capable of affording; we determined, however, to make the most of the little time which we could afford.

Amongst the incidents which I reflect upon with the greatest pleasure, I must place the very interesting visit we paid to M. Huber, so well known in the literary world for his acute observations in Natural History, and, particularly, his patient and extraordinary investigation of the habits and economy of that valuable insect, the common honey-gathering bee. There existed a sympathy and fellow-feeling, between this amiable man and myself, of no common kind, for we had both of us long been excluded from all enjoyment of the “visual ray;” forty years before, and in the prime of life, M. Huber had the misfortune to lose his sight. Besides his superior acquaintance with natural history, M. Huber is a deep mathematician, and accomplished musician.

Before the present personal introduction, we were, however, not entirely unknown to each other, as through the medium of Dr. P⸺, when at Edinburgh, we had exchanged mutual compliments.

At this time he was residing at his country house, about a mile and a half from Geneva. We here found him walking alone in his garden, for which purpose, he has a string extended along a particular walk, which assists in guiding his steps with confidence, when engaged in deep mental research.

But, notwithstanding the public and literary character of M. Huber is so highly estimated, it is in the bosom of his family that his worth is most to be appreciated: his integrity, benevolence, and urbanity, have secured the respect and affection of all around him. He has been particularly fortunate in the companion of his domestic happiness. We had the pleasure of being introduced to Madame H⸺, the following traits of whose character cannot fail to do her the highest honour. M. H⸺ and herself had formed an attachment for each other, before his loss of sight; after this misfortune, her friends urged her to think no more of him; but neither her affection nor magnanimity would allow her to desert in adversity that being whom she had loved in prosperity; they were married, and she has had the exalted gratification of having bestowed a comfortable independence upon a worthy man, with whom she has now most happily descended far into the vale of life.

One of the sons of M. H⸺, emulating the literary character of his father, has distinguished himself by an Essay on the Economy of the Ant; a work which has been thought worthy of translation into foreign languages.

M. Huber’s reception of me was cordial and flattering; and, after too short a visit for the full gratification of my feelings, I was obliged to tear myself away, impressed with indelible sentiments of respect and veneration for this truly amiable man, and indefatigable philosopher.

The town of Geneva, which contains twenty-three thousand inhabitants, is by no means highly impressive in its appearance and buildings; it derives its interest, chiefly, from the beauty and grandeur of the surrounding scenery, and the energies of its inhabitants, having been the favoured residence of some of the most celebrated characters that have existed.

The inhabitants are, almost to an individual, possessed of superior intellectual powers; no doubt the result of the extended system of education which prevails, and which is supported by various charities, both public and private, so that the poorest native has opportunities of acquiring, what may almost be termed, a liberal education. I could not be otherwise than forcibly impressed, with the similarity of character and pursuits, between the inhabitants of this town and those of Edinburgh.

There is a celebrated academy at Geneva, which possesses twelve professors, and no less than six hundred students, and is adorned by an immense and valuable library, to which the pupils have free access.

The female part of the community also shew a superiority of intellect, of which I experienced various instances. We found the ladies whom we had the pleasure of being acquainted with, almost universally well versed in polite literature, and frequently acquainted with the English and German languages. I was much amused with the acuteness displayed by the young woman of a shop, which I entered to purchase a straw hat; and which was, at the same time, combined with great simplicity and _naiveté_. I can scarcely express the quickness and readiness of manner with which she attended to my wants, and the determination she shewed that I should be suited. She was both young and pretty, and I could not forbear venturing an inquiry, whether she was married, by asking her, if I was correct in addressing her as _Mademoiselle_, to which she frankly replied, with an air of evident satisfaction, almost amounting to exultation, “_Non Monsieur, Je ne suis pas marié encore, mais je serai dans un mois._” And I believe the favoured swain was not far distant, for my friend observed a handsome young man on the _qui vive_ about the door, with his eyes frequently directed towards her.

On Sunday, we were favoured with an invitation to breakfast with Dr. P⸺, whose father is a banker of this city; our entertainment was of a splendid kind, _à la fourchette_. Breakfast being concluded, we left the ladies, and went to hear divine service, with the manner of performing which we were highly pleased. After this we walked upon the ramparts. Geneva, however, is only partially fortified, and not capable of sustaining an energetic siege; as it was found, in the revolutionary war, to be commanded by the high grounds around it.

The town, as is well known, is situated on the banks of the Rhone, and near to the magnificent lake which now bears its name. It was formerly termed Lake Leman, or Lacus Lemanus, and is formed by the waters of the Rhone, which discharge themselves into this expanded form near Villeneuve; it is said to lie eleven or twelve hundred feet above the level of the sea, surrounded by the Alps; amongst which Mont Blanc, with its two remarkable ridges on each side, or _epaules_ as they are termed, towers conspicuously.

At length we were compelled, with much reluctance, to prosecute our journey. We had hoped to have found conveyances to Lausanne by water, along the beautiful lake, but were disappointed, as the passage is considered dangerous, in consequence of the sudden gusts of wind which come down the valleys. The only vessels which are used on the lake, are for the purposes of fishing and conveying wood, &c. I suggested the advantages of the steam-boat, which the smoothness of the water seemed particularly adapted for; but it was objected that the intercourse between the two places, was not sufficient to compensate the measure. They seemed unaware that the establishment of such a conveyance, would be the means of forming the necessary intercourse. In short the Swiss have not the principles of a maritime nation amongst them.

We engaged our places for Lausanne in the post diligence, which cost us each five francs Swiss, equal to seven francs and a half French; before, however, we entered the coach, they made an additional and heavy charge for the baggage, which, after in vain remonstrating against, we were compelled to pay. We might have travelled to Lausanne, not only without this expense, but even for a minor fare, had we looked out for one of the voitures which are constantly running between these places.

We left Geneva, in company with three ladies, one of whom was of a _certain_ age, and appeared to have the other two, who were much younger, under her protection; the elder of the young ladies spoke English fluently, and undoubtedly had had a superior education; the youngest, who was more reserved, was a languishing beauty, with a pair of such expressive and brilliant black eyes, that my friend, who unfortunately sat directly opposed to their effects, was completely dazzled and confused. I was myself unfortunately unconscious of a proximity to such attractive orbs.

Our conversation was chiefly carried on in English, which was not using the elderly lady fairly, as she was totally unacquainted with that language. Amongst other inquiries, we requested the explanation of a circumstance which had much impressed us at Geneva; namely, why the ladies are generally seen on the public walks in large groupes, without any gentleman in company with them. This we were told was to be attributed to the gentlemen, being almost universally members of some learned society or other; the intercourse with which they prefer, to the more sentimental conversation of the ladies. In revenge for this neglect, however, the ladies have also their exclusive associations, which, they maintain, afford them more pleasure and independence, than they could derive from converse with the other sex. I must confess myself sceptical as to the actual indifference of the ladies; and pity most sincerely the Genevese gentlemen, for thus rejecting the influence of the softer sex.

“Oh, woman! lovely woman! Nature made ye to temper man—
We had been brutes without you.”

The road to Lausanne lies alongside the lake, through a delightful country abounding with vineyards, which produce the esteemed vin de la Côte. We passed through the little towns of Nyons, Rouge, and Morges, taking leave of our agreeable companions at the latter, and arriving at Lausanne between two and three o’clock in the afternoon. Before entering the town, we were amused with the economical ostentation of our driver, who threw off a shabby old travelling dress, and put on a fine red coat.

We found the Lion d’Or, to which we had been recommended, quite full; when recollecting that I had an old college friend, Dr. V⸺, residing at this place, we bent our steps to his house, with a view of requesting him to recommend us an hotel; accordingly he had the kindness to send his servant, to secure apartments at the Hotel D’Angleterre; at the same time insisting upon our dining with him. After dinner, Dr. V⸺ conducted us to the Jardin d’Arc, where a society of gentlemen archers assemble in the evening for their amusement: this is the spot from whence the panoramic view of Lausanne, lately exhibited in London, was taken.

On the following day we visited the cathedral, and walked over the town; the former is an ancient building, standing upon very high ground, but which by its commanding view, I am informed, fully repays the trouble of ascent.

In the evening we entered the _circle literaire_, an establishment furnished with a good library, and where the newspapers and many other periodical publications are taken in. One of the rules of this society is, that no stranger can be admitted twice.

On Friday the 27th, we set out at an early hour, in a carriage called a _char_, resembling a sofa placed lengthways on wheels, with a curtained canopy over head, and an apron below, to protect the traveller from the weather, to visit my friend R⸺, whom I have before mentioned both at Toulouse and Montpellier, and who had since taken a wife, and fixed himself near Vevay.

The road to Vevay throughout lies by the side of the lake, and is so narrow, being bounded by a wall on each side, that it is impossible that two carriages could pass each other. The sides of the mountains that bound the road on the left, and which are so steep as to appear inaccessible, are richly clothed with vineyards, artfully formed into terraces, rising in tiers, one above the other. These terraces are formed by strong and high stone walls, which preserve the soil from shelving down, and are ascended by flights of steps. The vineyards thus formed, are exposed to frequent injuries, and often to utter destruction, by the rapid impulse of the mountain torrents descending from above, and which occasionally sweep away wall, terrace, and vines, in one indiscriminate ruin. These natural visitations are, however, borne by the Swiss peasant with resignation; and notwithstanding he may have lost the whole harvest of his hopes, he immediately applies himself, to repair the injury, burying the past in the anticipation of the future.

On arriving at Vevay, we found my friend on the look out for us, and were immediately conducted to his house two miles beyond the town, and introduced to his lady. After breakfast he took us to the famous prison of Chillon, the subject of one of Lord Byron’s eccentric poems, and which was three miles distant. Here, in the year 1530, the patriot Bonnivard was doomed, by the duke of Savoy, to a confinement of six years, in one of its most dismal dungeons.

“Lake Leman lies by Chillon’s walls;
A thousand feet in depth below,
Its massy waters meet and flow;
Thus much the fathom-line was sent
From Chillon’s snow-white battlement,
Which round about the wave enthrals.
A double dungeon, wall and wave
Half made, and like a living grave.
Below the surface of the lake
The dark vault lies⸺”

We entered this celebrated vault, and examined the seven “pillars of Gothic mould,” but which, at present, retain only four of the seven rings described by our poet, three pillars being without them; the chains, said to have been connected with these rings, have entirely disappeared.

After spending a very happy day, we were obliged, but with the greatest regret, to leave our kind friend at an early hour, as we had to prepare for our intended departure from Lausanne early on the following morning.

But we were disappointed in our latter views, owing partly to the weather, and partly to the difficulty of procuring a suitable conveyance; we secured, however, places in a voiture for the following morning, and made ourselves perfectly ready for setting out.

In the morning, at an early hour, we were prepared for our journey. We waited until six o’clock, when a man came to look at our luggage, after which, a variety of excuses were sent, which terminated in our being informed, that the voiture would not go that day, but that we might be sent in a char to Berne, for which town, we had taken our places. For a time, we insisted on the fulfilment of our agreement, but, beginning to apprehend we should otherwise be prevented from getting away to-day, we at length agreed to put up with the char. It was accordingly brought forward; on placing, however, my friend’s trunk behind it, this was found too large to be attached, without a risk of injury on both sides. In consequence, they were obliged eventually to convey us in the voiture; I am convinced, that in obtaining this point, we were indebted entirely to their fears of offending Dr. V⸺.

I cannot leave Lausanne without paying the due tribute of gratitude to this gentleman and his worthy father, for their kind attentions during our stay at that place.

CHAP. XXVII.

FROM LAUSANNE TO STRASBURG.

After leaving Lausanne, we arrived at Maudon about noon, where we dined with an English party that came in soon after ourselves. We afterwards proceeded to Payerne, where we rested for the night. At this place, a small, but short down-bed was placed loosely over the coverlet, so that one slept both under a bed, and over a bed; this is not uncommon in various parts of the continent; but however comfortable the custom may be in winter, it was by no means agreeable at midsummer.

On the following morning, after leaving Payerne, we passed through the ancient town of Avenche, and the neat one of Morat, close to a lake of the same name. We stopped to dine at the village of Gummingen, situated on the banks of the Sarine, over which, there is a covered wooden bridge, and which is distant about four leagues from Berne. From hence we ascended a steep hill, from the top of which, the town and lake of Neuchatel are visible. At half after six in the evening, we arrived at Berne, where, finding the principal inn full, we were obliged to put up with a secondary one; however we were well accommodated.

We employed the following morning in examining this interesting city: we promenaded the ramparts, and the fine public walk near to the cathedral, which is greatly admired for its commanding view. This was once the only public walk which the town possessed, but a new one said to surpass it in magnificence, has been formed along a high bank on the side of the Aar, which looks proudly upon the city and country, with the Glaciers in their vicinity.

Berne is built with much regularity and some magnificence; the houses are chiefly of white free-stone, and uniform in their height and appearance; in the principal streets, piazzas are erected on each side, over foot-paths elevated some height above the carriage road, through the centre of which, runs a small and rapid stream led off from the Aar, which gives a refreshing coolness to this part of the town, and, at the same time, promotes its cleanliness.

The public buildings are particularly fine, especially the cathedral, churches, and the arsenal.

My friend was much amused with the costume of the Bernoise females, and in particular the peasantry from the country, who came to supply the markets; their head-dress was very peculiar, and they wore curious black cloth petticoats, so short as not to reach the knee, with white stockings. The ladies and towns-women, however, have adopted the greater length of petticoat.

On Wednesday, the 1st of August, we set off in a carriage, termed a berlin, for Basle, distant eighteen leagues, paying as many francs each for our places, and in company with a French gentleman, and a Bernoise woman, in the dress of her canton. We arrived at Soleure for dinner, which is an agreeable little town on the banks of the Aar; the houses are particularly neat and clean, and at the same time built with considerable taste. We visited the catholic cathedral, which is a remarkably neat modern structure.

The country between Soleure and Basle is very hilly, and regarded as beautiful beyond description. We slept at a village five leagues from Basle, at which place we arrived about noon on the following day.

We took up our residence at the Three Kings, situated on the banks of the Rhine, over which majestic river, the windows of our apartment projected. This town, except in point of situation, is very inferior to Berne.

After dinner, we crossed the river by a wooden bridge to Little Basle, with a view of inquiring into the possibility of getting down the Rhine by boat; for we found there were no passage boats, as we had been led to expect. We were informed that a boat was loading, which would probably set off in a day or two days’ time; but, upon consideration, were induced to prefer accompanying the French gentleman with whom we had travelled from Berne, and who was proceeding by diligence on the following morning.

We remarked a custom peculiar to this place, which, however, has, I believe, been noticed by several travellers, that of keeping the clock one hour in advance of the regular time. The following explanation of the origin of this custom has been given. The magistrates having received information of a plan to make a sudden attack on the city at one o’clock on the morning, ordered the town-clock to be put forward an hour. The enemy, hearing it strike two, considered that their design had been discovered, and abandoned the attempt. In commemoration of the event, it has ever since been kept an hour in advance.

We left Basle for Strasburg, at eight o’clock in the morning of the 3rd of August, and entered France at the little town of St. Louis, where our baggage underwent the strictest examination which we had yet experienced, in consequence of the extensive illicit introduction of Swiss manufactures, and particularly cambrics, into France. A merchant, who was in our company, informed us, that when once travelling in a carriage of his own, the officers threatened to break it to pieces, unless he declared in what part the illicit goods, which they were convinced he had with him, were concealed, stating that they had information of its having been constructed for that express purpose; they were only prevented from putting their threats into execution, by his declaring, that as it contained nothing contraband, he would certainly compel them to make good the damage.

We dined at Mulhausen, famous for its fine printed cambrics, silks, and calicoes, and where we were amused, as well as benefited, by the economy of one of our French companions, who proposed, as it was an early hour for dinner, that we should take only a _petit dinér_, and which would be charged half-price: we assented to his proposal, and certainly had as good and full a dinner as we could wish, consisting of soup, entré, rôti, vegetables, a dessert, and _un demi-bottaile du vin_.

We reached Colmar about seven o’clock, where we rested three hours, after which we travelled all night, arriving at Strasburg at four o’clock in the morning, and taking up our quarters at the Maison Rouge. After dinner we walked to a bridge of pontoons over the Rhine, about a league distant from the city, which we crossed, to the gates of the small town of Kehl; on our way back, we found the bar of a bridge over one of the tributary streams to the Rhine closed; our passage was thus obstructed, but we got over it without difficulty, an offence for which we only escaped arrest by pleading, as strangers, our ignorance of the regulation. On our arrival at Strasburg, also, we were but just in time to enter before the gates were shut; had we been a little later, we must inevitably have been excluded for the night.

On the next day, Sunday, we visited the noble Gothic cathedral, which possesses the highest and finest steeple in the world, the summit being five hundred and seventy-four feet from the ground. This we ascended, and I had the temerity to mount some feet higher than my companions, which procured me a severe lecture; I had no small difficulty to convince them that the sense of touch, on which I depended, was less likely to deceive than the eye, when the dizzy height would make the

“⸺brain turn, and the deficient sight
Topple down headlong.”

This cathedral is remarkable for the numerous allegorical figures about it, intended to expose the licentious and crafty characters of the Monks of former times. We had the works of the renowned clock, once one of the wonders of Europe, laid open to us, and which describes the various revolutions of the heavenly bodies.

On our return, we found a military parade in the _place_ where our hotel stood, the band of which played a variety of fine airs.

On inquiring respecting conveyances down the Rhine, they informed us, that the Coche d’Eau, which only goes once a week, had unfortunately set out the morning of our arrival; and as the diligence goes but twice a week (on Mondays and Thursdays) we lost no time in securing our places for the morrow, as far as Spire, being led to hope that we should find water conveyance, from that place to Mayence.

We might indeed have gone down the river in a trading boat, numbers of which are frequently going from, or passing by Strasburg; but the accommodations are not to be depended upon, and there was some uncertainty in their arrival and departure.

In the evening, after securing our places, we walked into the public gardens, from whence a balloon was sent off, and which was constructed in the shape of a wine cask, with a Bacchus astride it. This was succeeded by a display of fire-works, with music and dancing.

CHAP. XXVIII.

STRASBURG TO COBLENTZ.

We left Strasburg at half after six in the morning still in company with our former French companion. In addition, we had, in our diligence, two elderly French ladies, who were very chatty and agreeable; they quitted us, however, in the afternoon, when in lieu of them, we took in a very nice young woman going to her husband at Gemmingen; and a merchant’s clerk, who had previously been occupying the cabriolet. At eight in the evening we arrived at Landau, were we slept at a most comfortable inn.

The whole of the next day was alternately fine and showery. When we had travelled two leagues from Landau, the spring of the carriage broke down, and detained us two hours. We noticed that the wife of the blacksmith, who repaired it, assisted her husband throughout the process, and appeared even the more dexterous of the two. On entering Gemmingen, however, their work gave way, and we were in consequence detained two hours longer; even this afterwards broke out again, but fortunately just as we reached the end of our journey. These delays were mortifying enough, as we did not reach Spire until three in the afternoon, instead of nine o’clock in the morning, as we had expected.

On our arrival at Spire, we might have proceeded forward immediately in the diligence to Mayence, and which our French companion availed himself of, but we preferred waiting until morning, in the hope of finding a conveyance by water. We were however disappointed, and obliged in the morning to leave Spire in a double bodied diligence, the back part of which we had to ourselves. We breakfasted at the Red Lion at Frankendal, a circumstance which I more particularly mention, because I was highly pleased with the attentive and feeling manner in which an interesting young woman waited upon me.

About two leagues beyond this place, there is a bridge over the Rhine, leading to the beautiful town of Manheim, situated on the opposite bank of the river. After this we passed through Oppenheim, Worms and Inheim, dining at the latter, and then proceeding to Mayence, where we arrived about five o’clock, and took up our quarters at the Three Crowns, an excellent inn, to which we had been recommended by our French friend, who had left us at Spire, under a promise of rejoining us here. He shortly afterwards came in and informed us, that besides arranging his own business, he had ascertained that a large boat sets out for Coblentz every morning at six o’clock, the fare in which was six francs, with an additional trifle for the luggage; this vessel, after stopping to dine at Bingen, arrives at Coblentz, a distance of eighteen leagues, between six and nine o’clock in the evening, according to the state of the wind; for sails are made use of whenever the latter is favourable. In consequence of this report, we determined to secure our passage for the morrow.

Mayence is an interesting town, and the bridge over the Rhine, fortifications, and promenades, worthy the attention of the traveller. There are a number of water-mills moored on the river, which make a singular appearance. The town was at this time garrisoned by a medley of Austrian, Prussian, and Brandenburgh troops.

The morning proved, unfortunately, both cold and showery, and of course unfavourable for our journey by water. At six o’clock we left Mayence. Notwithstanding the disadvantages of weather my friend was highly interested by the beautiful scenery displayed on the banks of this magnificent river, consisting of castles, ruins, villages, and picturesque cottages, bounded by vine-clad mountains. On the right we passed the mountain of Johansberg, celebrated for its wines.

While dining at Bingen, twenty miles below Mentz, the grand duke Nicholas of Russia passed through, on his way from the baths of Emms, to visit the duke of Nassau, whose castle is situated on the right banks of the Rhine, about four miles below Mentz.

Our dinner party consisted of a motley group of various nations, some of the individuals composing which, were pleasant, agreeable people. Amongst them were, what is in some measure unusual, two or three loquacious Germans; and also a humorous old Dutchman, from whom my friend elicited much information respecting the best route to Amsterdam. We felt inclined to have prosecuted our journey into Holland with this latter person, in order to have availed ourselves of his local information; but it is questionable whether a plan of this kind generally answers, for, on the continent, one does not always find liberality enough in fellow-travellers to put one on his guard against the impositions of their countrymen. We had a strong illustration of this about the present time. I have frequently mentioned a French gentleman with whom we had been travelling from Berne, and to whose kind attentions and gentlemanly conduct, we felt ourselves on a variety of occasions, highly indebted: one day, another Frenchman who had also been travelling with us, proposed to him to direct the landlord of the inn where we dined, to charge C⸺ and myself double the established price, so as to let them off without payment. Our friend most indignantly rejected the proposal, asserting that he was a disgrace to his country, and that it was the conduct of such scoundrels, which led to the traduction of its character.

I must name one other individual of our dinner party at Bingen,—a watchmaker, with a pack-full of watches, some of which he exhibited to us; his prices were from six francs, to twice as many Louis, each; several of our companions purchased of him at the former rate. How he could afford to sell upon such terms, it is not easy to account for, without supposing that he must have stolen his goods. He was a civil middle-aged man, and had travelled over a great part of Europe, and, in particular, followed the French army into Russia, where he sold great numbers of his watches to the soldiers in exchange, I suppose, for their plunder. After dinner we recommenced our journey, and at half past eight arrived at Coblentz.

We were recommended by some of our fellow-passengers to fix ourselves at the Pomme d’Or at this place, which proved, however, to be only a second rate inn; and we afterwards learnt that the hotel of the Three Swiss is the preferable one for travellers proceeding by the Coche d’Eau.

On the following morning, we made a party with two young Germans to visit the baths of Emms, distant about three leagues on the other side of the Rhine; for this purpose we engaged a coach, to convey us over one of the worst roads we had yet met with.

The bathing establishment at this place is perhaps the most commodious in the world. The main building contains two hundred and twenty lodging-rooms, at different rates; the prices of each being marked on the doors; it comprises, besides, several beautiful saloons for tables d’hôte, &c. We found a party of no less than three hundred dining in one of them, as well as smaller parties in other rooms. The ground floor is laid out in elegant shops and baths. In a newly attached part, there is a most noble coffee-room, with billiard and faro rooms.

The scenery around this spot is extremely beautiful, and bounded by mountains rising majestically into the clouds, clothed to their very summits with rich vineyards. These baths are the property of the duke of Nassau, whose capital is about a league distant, and half a mile from the village of Emms, through which my friend and myself passed on our return in the evening, having left our German companions behind us.

CHAP. XXIX.

COBLENTZ TO UTRECHT.

On the 11th of August, at six o’clock in the morning, we left Coblentz in the Coche d’Eau. Amongst the companions who most interested us, was a young Polish gentleman, undoubtedly a man of family, and who had been studying at one of the universities on the Rhine; we were much pleased with his merry convivial manners, and apparent liberality of sentiment; he seemed desirous of gaining general information, and was probably travelling with that intention, as he was well acquainted with the French and German languages, and spoke of visiting Italy and other parts of the continent within no distant period.

At eleven o’clock we rested an hour for dinner, and at three landed for a short time at Born, at which place we received on board, for the diversion of the party, a fiddler, who, for at least three hours, tortured our ears with a variety of the most discordant strains, both vocal and instrumental, that can be imagined. A French gentleman and lady also entered our vessel at this place, and accompanied us for a few miles, when they disembarked at an interesting part of the river; they were making a journey along the Rhine upon this principle, and an excellent mode to us of enjoying its beauties. After leaving Born, we passed a large and beautiful island, with a convent upon it. About four o’clock, the country suddenly changed from a mountainous into a rich champaign appearance. At eight in the evening we reached Cologne, and placed ourselves at the Hotel de Mayence. We here, in the newspapers, met with a first account of the Queen’s illness, and which was accompanied by a report of her death.

We had no time to visit the churches and other interesting objects at Cologne; amongst which, one of the most celebrated, is the house where Rubens was born. Nor could we examine the flying, or rather floating bridge over the Rhine, formed by two immense barges fastened together, and which are decked, and railed round to prevent accidents, and said to be sufficiently capacious to receive at least one thousand persons, besides carriages, &c. at one time; it is secured from passing down the stream, by an anchor in the middle of the river; on the tinkling of a bell, the whole is set at liberty, when the force of the current, assisted by the rudder, carries it to the other side; this is repeated every quarter of an hour.

Cologne is a dull old town, containing many narrow ill-paved streets. Every one is acquainted with its celebrity for the manufacture of the favourite perfumed spirit, the eau de Cologne. Originally there was only a single manufactory of this article, but the demand has now so greatly increased, that ten different establishments are engaged in it. We were informed that it sells here for eight francs the case, containing six bottles. We were anxious to have purchased a few for the benefit of our fair friends, but the risk of seizure deterred us from gratifying our wishes.

At this place our agreeable French companion, who had accompanied us from Berne, took leave of us; his name was M. Gerard Mignon, a Champagne wine-merchant of Rheims, and had been a captain in the French army; he intended passing by Aix la Chapelle to Brussels, at which latter place I promised myself the pleasure of again meeting with him.

We had proposed following the course of the Rhine as far as we could towards Amsterdam, to which place I had agreed to accompany my friend on his way to Russia; but on inquiry we found there was no regular water conveyance, and therefore determined to avail ourselves of a return Berlin to Cleves, for which we were to pay sixteen francs each; and as the journey would occupy two days, this was perhaps reasonable enough for this country.

At nine o’clock on Sunday morning we set out from Cologne, and travelled throughout the day over heavy sandy roads; on this account our driver shewed great consideration for his horses, as he stayed to refresh them every two hours with bread and water; with this view he had provided a number of loaves before setting out, and which at first we supposed were intended for his own use. We dined at a town named Nais, and halted for the night at Crevelt, a small but well built town, celebrated for its manufactory of silks and velvets.

Our apartments at this place were so grand, that we thought proper to inquire the price of them, which greatly hurt the landlord’s feelings, and led him into a long explanation of his honourable principles; he said he had fixed prices; and I must admit, that on leaving, we had no cause to think them unreasonable. We had, however, an additional charge made upon us, in consequence of declining to take supper. The German innkeepers are sure to be offended if you inquire their charges. It was Sunday evening, and our host politely invited us to accompany him to their weekly ball, but we preferred going to bed.