Chapter III: Part 3

Depuis long temps ce Dieu malin
Piqué de mon indifference,
Preparait tout bas sa vengeance:
Voyez combien l’amour est fin.
Sous les traits d’Aglae, et d’Aline,
Ne pouvant effleurer mon cœur,
Pour réussir le seducteur,
Prend ceux de ma belle voisine.

Si j’avais le talent heureux
De Zeuxis, ou de Praxitele,
Je peindrais la vertu si belle,
Qu’elle plairait à tous les yeux.
Elle aurait les traits de Cyprine,
De Junon l’air majestueux,
D’Hebé le souris gracieux;
Mais non! je piendrais ma voisine.

Qu’un soldat aime les lauriers,
Qu’on cueille au champ de la victoire;
Qu’un savant sur son vieux grimoire,
Se confonde des jours entiers,
Qu’un buveur, que rien ne chagrine,
A boire mette son plaisir.
Moi je ne forme qu’un desir,
C’est d’être aimé de ma voisine.

The air becoming sensibly cooler, it was determined to remove to our winter-quarters in Nice, leaving St. Rosalie to its peasantry, now about to commence getting in the olives, and express the oil, which is the richest part of their harvest. The best olives are those which grow wild, but the quantity of these is inconsiderable; they begin to collect them in the early part of November, and this is repeated at intervals until March or April; the fruit is beaten off the trees with long canes as it ripens, which is known by its turning from a light green to a very dark colour. The oil must be expressed immediately, and before the olives fade or grow wrinkled, otherwise it will not be good. The whole are, in the first instance, ground into paste by a millstone, set edgeways in a circular stone trough, and turned by a mule or the power of water; this paste is then put into cases, made of the same kind of grass which is so much used in the Mediterranean for the manufacture of ropes and cables; six or eight of which are piled one over the other, and then subjected to a powerful press for a few minutes, by which the oil is forced out, and received into a stone reservoir placed beneath it. While the oil is passing from the press, hot water is frequently dashed over it, to make it flow the better. The whole fluid is now transferred into a wooden vat, half filled with water, in which the dregs fall to the bottom, while the supernatant oil is skimmed off, and stored up in small oblong casks.

The remnant is now thrown into a large stone cistern containing water, and allowed to continue there twelve or fourteen days, frequently stirring it during that time; a coarser oil is then taken from its surface, which serves for the purpose of burning in lamps, or in manufactories. After these processes, they separate an oil still more coarse and fetid, and occasionally grind the paste down with hot water, which extracts a yet greater quantity of oily matter, but which in this case soon grows rancid.

The dregs which remain after these operations, when dried, are used as a fuel; particularly for warming, by means of _brasieres_, apartments without chimneys.

There is, however, a very peculiarly fine preparation, called virgin oil, and which is a great delicacy, eating like the sweetest butter; this is made from green olives, and sold at a high price, as a great quantity of the fruit yields but little oil.

The summer fruits, as grapes, figs, peaches, &c. were now over, but we had great stores preserved for the winter’s use. There were, however, neither oranges nor lemons this season, the unusually severe frost of the preceding winter having killed all the trees: throughout France, and about Genoa, most of the olive-trees also perished; but at Nice they were more fortunate.

It may be interesting, to advert to the mode of life of the peasantry of this district, and the nature of the tenure by which they hold their land, as well as the manner of cultivating it.

The Nicean peasant is frugal and industrious, he takes no regular meal, not even a breakfast, until after the conclusion of the labours of the day, contenting himself with an occasional refreshment of bread, wine, and fruit; at night he makes amends for this abstinence, but even now rarely partakes of animal food, his favourite and indispensable fare being soup, prepared with macaroni and vegetables, and mixed up with a large quantity of oil.

The land around the city is divided into small parcels or farms, seldom consisting of more than twelve or fourteen acres each, and which are principally covered with vines, olives, and fruit-trees, the intermediate spaces being filled up with abundance of vegetables, and small quantities of grain, the chief supply of this important article being derived from different parts of the Mediterranean.

The proprietor retains the actual possession of the farm, but the _fermier_ cultivates it, collects its produce, and carries it to market; he is bound also to plant, every year, a stipulated number of vines, from three to six hundred, according to the size of the farm; and at his sole expense to repair the walls and fences. The proprietor provides him a house, pays the contribution _foncier_, and incurs half the expense of manure, and of the animals necessary for carrying on the various operations of the concern. The proprietor and fermier then share the produce in equal proportions, except as relates to the olives, of which the former takes three-fifths.

The ground is entirely cultivated by a kind of hoe, termed _piochê_; the valuable instrument, the plough, being unknown in the whole country; nor do they here seem acquainted with the use of carts, as even the manure is conveyed in baskets, or barrels, on the backs of mules.

We now took leave of St. Rosalie; nor could I, without the highest regret, tear myself away from its rural charms, not least amongst which was the vine covered alley, “impervious to the noontide ray,” which had so often offered us delightful shade, and refreshment, during the most intense atmospheric heats; and where so many happy moments had glided away in interesting conversation, and the rational amusement of reading, frequently enlivened by the vocal powers of Madame M⸺ and her youngest daughter.

I thought I could have reposed for ever in this semblance of an earthly paradise; and yet there was something which, in my situation, I felt still wanting to make me completely blest.

“Rapt in the soft retreat, my anxious breast
Pants still for something unpossessed;
Whence springs this sudden hope, this warm desire?
To what enjoyment would my soul aspire?
’Tis love! extends my wishes and my care,
Eden was tasteless ’till an Eve was there.
Almighty Love! I own thy powerful sway,
Resign my soul, and willingly obey.”—CHURCH.

CHAP. XI.

NICE.

We took up our residence at Nice, on the 17th of October in the house of M. Audoli, situated in the suburb called St. John the Baptist: opposite to us, a plank lay across the Paglion, which, when the water was low afforded a ready access to the town; the bridge leading into it, being situated at a considerable distance higher up.

Nice is far from being a large city, as I was able to make the tour of its ramparts in twenty minutes; nor is it an interesting one; the streets are narrow, and mostly on a level, with the exception of one or two which lead to a part of the town situated in a hollow, and which have a step every two or three yards to break the declivity.

In many streets you are annoyed by the thumping of machinery, employed in the manufacture of macaroni, and which is required to force it into its tubular form. The following is the process for manufacturing the ordinary kind of macaroni or vermicelli: Equal parts of fine and coarse flour are mixed together, and made into a paste with water, to which a small quantity of saffron has been added to give it a yellow tinge. The whole is then kneaded into a stiff paste, by means of a beam of wood, which is worked by two or three men on the principle of the lever; after which it is put into a strong cylinder of copper, with perforations in its bottom, of such size as may be necessary to give the form of macaroni or vermicelli, which ever may be intended. It is then forced through these apertures into its tubular shape by a powerful screw, and cut of proper lengths as it comes out, after which it is hung up in the air to harden.

One street, termed Rue de Juif, is exclusively appropriated to the Jews, who are not allowed to reside in any other part of the town.

The _places_, St. Dominico and Victoire, are respectable squares: the York hotel is situated in the former, which affords visitors superior, and at the same time equally reasonable, accommodation, with the Hotel des Etranger.

The most general residence for strangers, however, is beyond the suburb of St. John the Baptist, at a part termed the Croix de Marbre, where a number of houses, superior, in point of comfort, to the residence of the natives, are kept for the purpose of accommodating them: houses may, however, also be procured on the Cimea Hill, near the Port, in the _Places_, and by the Terrace, as well as in other parts of the town. The prices are variable, according to the season, situations, and demand for them; and what you pay will be materially influenced by your skill in bargaining: the prudent plan is to offer only half what they ask, and from thence ascend, as they descend, until both agree, or you are satisfied that you have proposed a fair price; and then if you stick to your point, they will most probably accede to it. This is a better way of arranging the business, than through the medium of your banker, who will probably offer his services as an agent.

Nice has excellent markets, well supplied with provisions of all kinds, at reasonable prices: viz. beef, five sous per pound; mutton, six sous; veal and lamb, seven sous; but the pound consists only of twelve ounces, and not, as in France, of from sixteen to twenty-two. The price of butchers’ meat is fixed by the magistracy, and therefore invariable, whereas that of poultry and butter fluctuates, these articles being brought from the plains of Piedmont over the Col de Tende, at times impassable; which circumstance of course enhances the value. Game is scarce, and nearly as dear as in England; six francs being given for a brace of woodcocks: hares, however, are more moderate in proportion. Fish is plentiful, when the weather is favourable, and sells from six to sixteen sous per pound. Vegetables and fruits are grown abundantly in the environs.

Nice produces very fair wines, both red and white; but the most valuable kind is that named _Billit_.

The accommodations for bathing are indifferent; the beach is rough and stony, and there are no machines. On summer evenings, after it is dark, the females take possession of the beach, on one side of the entrance of the harbour, and there bathe, while the men go to a distant point.

There are, however, two sets of warm baths in the town, the one constructed of marble, the other with copper; the former, situated near the Place St. Dominico, are long, narrow, and shallow; when in them, you only want a cover to make a good coffin—the latter, on the contrary, situated on the ramparts between the bridge and the Place Victoire, are so short and deep, that although you cannot lie down in them, you may sit, and have the water up to your chin; in fact they form excellent boilers, which would serve to stew you down, if required.

Among the many beautiful walks about Nice, the Terrace ranks foremost; it is crowded on a summer’s evening, but during the winter is delightful throughout the whole day, particularly on a Sunday afternoon, when a military band occasionally attends for an hour or two. The walks to the Port, and around the ramparts, are also very agreeable.

In the environs of the town, a great deal of beautiful scenery will be found, embellished with aqueducts, temples, and other Roman remains, particularly in the direction of the Cimea road; and that leading to Genoa, from which there is a most commanding view of the sea, Nice, and its neighbourhood, with the Paglion flowing in the valley beneath, the Turin road lying by the side of it, over which, on the opposite side of the river, stands the Cimea Hill.

Only three good carriage roads will be found at Nice, one leading to the Var, another to Turin, and the third to Genoa; there is also one to Villa Franca, but so steep, that many do not like to venture up it; the preferable way of visiting this latter place, is to row there in a boat or felucca, and return on foot.

Villa Franca is a small, but strongly fortified town, distant about two miles from Nice, built at the extremity of a fine harbour, in a situation admirably adapted for the site of a more important place. It consists of very indifferent buildings, and its streets are narrow, and wretchedly paved.

Nice and its environs do not offer a very extensive field to the naturalist. The surrounding mountains are, however, covered with a great variety of plants during the whole year; and, of course, the botanist will find ample amusement. The mineralogy of the neighbourhood is but limited, the whole of the hills around the city consisting chiefly of limestone, with some few beds of gypsum. In the beds of the mountain torrents, portions are occasionally found of granite, gneiss, clay-slate, flinty-slate, serpentine and feltspar; but these specimens so small and so much weathered, that it is often difficult to distinguish them.

The geology of Nice is more interesting; the calcareous rocks afford many specimens of what the French call the _breche osseuse_, in which small fragments of bones are cemented together by argillaceous matter, which has acquired a reddish colour from the presence of iron. Near Villa Franca some of the limestone contains a great number of shells, the species of many of which still exist in the Mediterranean. The rising grounds near the Var are wholly formed of a coarse breccia, the cement of which is argillaceous, impregnated with iron; extensive excavations have here been made to procure clay for the manufacture of tiles, in which great numbers of shells are found imbedded, with occasional vegetable remains.

I believe the sea-shore produces a number of shells which would be interesting to the conchologist.

I shall now make some remarks respecting the state of society at Nice. There were English residents enough to form sufficiently large circles amongst themselves, besides numerous others who visited the place, _en passant_, to and from Italy. A few German, and Russian, families were also spending their winter here, who associated largely with the English. These visited each other, and gave dinner, and evening parties, and balls occasionally. The natives, however, were not excluded from this society, although the incomes of few would permit their returning the invitation in equal stile. The hospitality, however, of the governor, made amends for the deficiency. This officer, only gave dinner parties to the gentlemen; but had balls for the ladies once a week during the Carnival; and evening parties, in the same way, throughout the remainder of the winter, paying both by himself, and his aid-de-camps, the greatest possible attention to his visitors. He had, however, no regular government-house, and the one which he occupied was scarcely large enough for the accommodation of his numerous guests. The only ceremony necessary to enable a stranger to receive his attentions, was to leave his card, which the governor always acknowledged in person.

The nobility of Nice, never think of visiting their countrymen who have not titles, notwithstanding many of them are people of great respectability, as professional men, merchants, &c.; at the same time, they have no objection to meet them at the houses of strangers. It might have been conceived that the experience of the French revolution would have taught them differently; besides, it is a matter of no difficulty to procure a title, for I am informed that it only costs sixty louis to purchase that of a count, and twenty-five to become a baron. But let me not be mistaken for a leveller of distinctions, no one has a greater respect for the Patrician order than myself, when its dignities have been the meed of talent or of virtue.

“Order is Heaven’s first law, and this confest,
Some are, and must be, greater than the rest.”

It is, contemptible, however, to witness the pride of upstart gentility, with nothing but the mere garnish of wealth to adorn it.

But possibly I may have been led by the force of circumstances to contemplate the present subject in too strong a light; for alas! I have long been incapable of being deceived by the outward appearance of things, and habituated to estimate men by their manners, and conversation, rather than their external and visible signs.

Now peace to the nobles: may they wisdom acquire,
Should their titles have come from their fathers or sire.

I was much surprised one day by a visit from a particular friend, Mrs. R⸺, lately arrived from Paris, whom I had not seen for the last seven years, and supposed to be in the West Indies. This lady did me the favour to introduce me to Mr. and Mrs. K⸺, the friends whom she had accompanied from Paris. Soon after I had the pleasure of becoming acquainted with General B⸺, Mrs. A⸺, and a number of other English residents, whose names it would be tiresome to the reader to enumerate, from whom I afterwards received a series of kind and friendly attentions, for which I feel greatly indebted to them. I cannot, however, avoid particularizing Mr. and Mrs. S⸺, whose permission to make use of their valuable collection of books, proved a source of the highest satisfaction to me.

A very pretty, but small theatre, has been erected at Nice, which was not opened for dramatic representations during my residence there. It was, however, made use of for two grand balls, given by a select party of the nobles and gentlemen of Nice, to the stranger residents; we were also entertained with a public concert in it; we had, besides this, several private amateur concerts, in a large room appropriated for such occasions, and supported by subscription, each subscriber being allowed to introduce a certain number of persons.

Before giving a dance at a private house, it is necessary, unless you intend to break up by ten o’clock, to ask permission of the police, who charge six francs for their licence, and then a soldier is placed at the door of the house.

I accompanied a party of ladies, one Sunday, to the cathedral, to hear an eminent French preacher, which is an unusual occurrence here, for they generally preach either in Italian, or the patois of the country, which is the most harsh and barbarous dialect I ever heard, worse than the patois of Provence, which is bad enough, although somewhat similar. It is however, the common language of the natives when conversing together, notwithstanding most of the respectable inhabitants speak both French and Italian.

I shall now notice various natural and meteorological occurrences which took place during my residence in this city.

On the 3rd of January, the waters of the Paglion came down with so much force, as to carry away the embankment, raised for the protection of the workmen employed at the foundation of a new bridge, just commenced over the river, and which was expected to require two years to complete.

On the evening of the 6th of February, the shock of an earthquake was sensibly perceived in some parts of the town, more particularly on the side of the Turin gate; and on the 8th, the wind suddenly rose to a violent gale, which lasted three or four hours; at the commencement of which, Reaumur’s thermometer suddenly rose from 3° to 10°. An American vessel which had left the port the day before, for Marseilles, was upset during this gale, off Cannes, but the crew were fortunately saved.

The coldest day experienced during the season, was on the 20th of February, but even then, the lowest point at which Reaumur’s thermometer was noticed, was 1° above freezing point, or equal to 34¼° of Fahrenheit.

The following is a register of the temperature of the atmosphere, noted by Dr. S⸺, three times each day, during the first week of January.

+--------++-----------------++-----------------++-----------------+
|January,|| 8 a.m. || 2 p.m. || 8 p.m. |
| 1820. ++--------+--------++--------+--------++--------+--------+
| || Reaum. | Fahrt. || Reaum. | Fahrt. || Reaum. | Fahrt. |
+--------++--------+--------++--------+--------++--------+--------+
| 1st || 3° | 38¾° || 7° | 47¾° || 2° | 36½° |
+--------++--------+--------++--------+--------++--------+--------+
| 2nd || 2° | 36½° || 6½° | 46⅝° || 5° | 43½° |
+--------++--------+--------++--------+--------++--------+--------+
| 3rd || 5½° | 44¾° || 7° | 47¾° || 9° | 52½° |
+--------++--------+--------++--------+--------++--------+--------+
| 4th || 7° | 47¾° || 9° | 52½° || 7½° | 48⅞° |
+--------++--------+--------++--------+--------++--------+--------+
| 5th || 7° | 47¾° || 8½° | 51⅛° || 9° | 52½° |
+--------++--------+--------++--------+--------++--------+--------+
| 6th || 8° | 50° || 1½° | 35¾° || 6° | 45½° |
+--------++--------+--------++--------+--------++--------+--------+
| 7th || 5° | 43½° || 9° | 52½° || 7½° | 48⅞° |
+--------++--------+--------++--------+--------++--------+--------+

With respect to the climate of Nice, if I might be allowed, after five months’ residence, to hazard an opinion, I conceive it the most delightful one in Europe, and, indeed, preferable to any I have yet experienced, unless the Bermuda islands are excepted. Some object to the heat during summer, but it is possible to avoid the inconvenience, by retiring for this season, amongst the mountains. At a small town, named Rochabiliare, twenty-five miles inland, are mineral springs, containing nitre and sulphur, and of different temperatures, the highest being 100° Fahrenheit. I endeavoured, but in vain, to procure a correct analysis of these waters.

My friends at Nice, with the exception of Dr. S⸺, thought me insane, when, on the approach of spring, I declared my intention of proceeding southward, to make the tour of Italy, as the whole of the country was in an agitated state, in consequence of the advance of the Austrians upon Naples, hostilities having actually commenced on the frontiers. In addition, the Milanese and Piedmont were supposed to be highly discontented, and an insurrection was anticipated throughout the whole of Italy; but when my resolution is fixed, I do not allow myself to be deterred by the anticipation, or dread of difficulties; in the event of the fears of my friends being realized, I was disposed to think I should have an equal, or better chance of getting safely away from Florence, than from Nice; for instance, I could, in a few hours reach Leghorn, at which place there would be every probability of my being able to embark on board an English vessel, or of getting to the neighbouring island where Lord Byron desires Bonaparte to hasten, concluding his verse with a just compliment to his own country.

“Then haste thee to thy sullen isle,
And gaze upon the sea;
That element may meet thy smile,
It ne’er was ruled by thee.”

On the contrary, in the event of a revolution at Nice, there would be little chance of getting away, by sea or land. My ideas, in this respect, were in some degree realized; a revolution did take place there, and for three days the greatest consternation prevailed, as there was an embargo laid upon all horses at Nice, in order to facilitate the movements of the king and his government; and at the same time not an English vessel off the port.

On arriving at Florence, it was my intention to regulate my future movements according to circumstances, and the alternatives of these it was not difficult to foresee. In the event of the Austrians being successful in the first instance, the war was certain to be of short duration; whereas, on the other hand, if the Neapolitans proved able to support the onset, there was little doubt but that the whole of Italy would be in arms, to assert its independence, and to compel a free constitution from its rulers.

Influenced by these considerations, I determined to proceed, nor have I found any reason to regret the decision.

CHAP. XII.

VOYAGE TO GENOA.

On the 26th of February, 1821, I left Nice in the Divine Providence felucca, of eleven tons, bound to Genoa, with a freight of passengers only, not having been able to procure a cargo.

Some time elapsed, after getting on board, before I felt able to inquire into the persons, or characters of my fellow-passengers; my mind was too deeply absorbed in the painful emotions, occasioned by taking leave of a family with whom I had so long and happily resided, and for whom I must ever entertain an affectionate regard. In time, however, I found that, besides myself, our vessel contained three English gentlemen, who, indeed, had taken their passage at my suggestion, instead of pursuing their journey to Genoa, over land, with mules, as they had intended. It was, however, their third attempt to get farther into Italy by sea. They had first endeavoured to reach Leghorn in an American vessel, which, on some account or other, put back to Villa Franca: after this they sailed for Civita Vecchia, but a contrary wind, and roughish sea arising, after they had left port a few hours, the master of the vessel became frightened, and notwithstanding, every argument to induce him to persevere, returned to port. In order to make progress, it is preferable to coast it in small vessels, rather than trust to the open sea in larger traders, for they never keep out in bad weather, if it is possible to reach a port.

Besides these gentlemen, our party consisted of three Frenchmen, and two ladies, one French, and the other an Italian.

After leaving the harbour, the wind was light and variable, and the water smooth, so that by dint of rowing and sailing, we proceeded at the rate of three miles an hour. On arriving off the town, and principality of Monaco, we stood towards the shore, and took on board three sailors, belonging to a Sardinian frigate, lying at Genoa, who had been visiting their friends at Monaco, and agreed to work their passage back to the former place.

At sunset, the captain provided each of us with a straw mattress for our repose; my companions, accordingly, laid themselves down for the night on the floor of the cabin, but I placed mine in preference, on the bench upon which I had been sitting.

We glided on smoothly until midnight, when the wind changed to the eastward, accompanied by small rain. The master expecting bad weather, now bore up for a small port called Cerf, where we anchored about three o’clock in the morning; at seven, we landed at the town of Cerf, situated on the side of so steep a hill, that the streets consist of continued flights of steps. We were conducted to a small auberge, the best however in the place, where we got some hot water, and refreshed ourselves, after our miserable night, with tea, cold meat, &c. of which we had been cautious to lay in good stores before leaving Nice. The care of my friends had supplied myself with no less than a couple of large tongues, a dozen loaves, smoked herrings, coffee, sugar, wines, &c. I name these particulars, because their kind consideration, in the sequel, proved important to me.

After breakfast, the whole of our party, except the Italian lady and myself, set off on mules for Genoa, we having determined to remain in hopes of the wind shortly becoming favourable, in which case, we doubted not, by pursuing our original plan, still to reach Genoa before them, and avoid a difficult and expensive journey by land.

To amuse myself in the interim, I visited the church, and also a miserable auberge, where our captain took me. We here found a number of low-lived fellows, some playing at cards, and others smoking, drinking, and quarrelling. On my return to the auberge, I found the Italian lady solitary, and out of spirits, in consequence of our detention. At five o’clock, we were asked to take refreshment, and informed, that they could give us soup and macaroni, but, on tasting the former, it was composed chiefly of water, with some onions and vermicelli, and a large quantity of oil floating upon the surface; this fare I could not relish, and determined to wait until we returned on board, as we intended to do shortly, in order to take advantage of any favourable change in the weather, and when I could avail myself of my own stores.

After returning to the vessel, and making a hearty meal, we lay down upon our mattresses as on the preceding night, myself on the bench, the lady on the floor, and the captain and crew in the forepart of the vessel.

The wind, which throughout the night had continued fresh, in the morning became more moderate and favourable; soon after day-light we weighed anchor, stood out of the harbour, and beat up along shore during the day, making what sailors call a long leg and a short one, or perhaps what will be more intelligible, a long tack and a short one, the wind being three points on the right side of our noses; about evening it freshened, and was fed by small rain. A Swedish brig passed us at two p.m. which was running out of the gulf of Genoa, with a fine fair wind. About eight in the evening, the wind had increased in such a degree, that the captain thought it necessary to seek shelter for the night, but it was become so dark, that in running for a place he had been accustomed to, the vessel took ground, under the lee of some small uninhabited island. The whole crew, including himself, now made such a hue-and-cry, that one would have thought, nothing less than immediate destruction was to be the result of this mistake; however, we made shift to secure the vessel to the rocks, with an anchor, and it was fortunate that we succeeded in effecting this, for the wind soon increased to a tremendous gale, with heavy rain, which continued through the present night, and the following day and night also.

I had now plenty of occupation in calming the fears of my companion, who, as may be imagined, became dreadfully alarmed; partly with this intention, and partly from necessity, I changed my mattress from the bench to the floor; for the former station was too much exposed to the cold wind and rain, to make it longer tenable. Our cabin was not a close room, but covered over with a tilted roof like a waggon, and had temporary canvas screens, at each end, to secure us from the weather.

At length I had the pleasure of succeeding in my attempts to restore the lady’s confidence, and she afterward amply compensated me by her cheerful manners, and agreeable conversation. Sterne may dilate upon the delicacy of his situation by land, when shut up for eight hours in a room, half as large as our whole ship, and a third person in an adjoining closet, with a widow lady of thirty, who could coolly draw up articles to regulate their conduct; but what was his case compared with mine, enclosed, as I was, for two nights and a day in the cabin of a vessel, and scarcely within hearing of a living soul, with a young married female of five-and-twenty, and whom my imagination might lead me to suppose beautiful as an _Houri_. The whole of this time passed away like a night to me; for as it was cold, we shut ourselves up close, to keep out the wind and rain; like our sailors on the northern expedition, during this state of confinement, it made no difference, whether we dined in the night or day, for it was just as easy for me to serve out our provisions in the former, as in the latter; and with respect to sleep, I think I had the best of it in the day-time, as the lady’s fears were less on the _qui vive_, for whenever the sea at night struck us a little harder than usual, she would cry out in terror, “_Monsieur! Monsieur! nous sommes contre les rochers_,” and I must have had indeed a heart of rock, had I not poured in all possible consolation: I had the pleasure indeed of thinking that the assurances of my _animated tongue_, were not less serviceable to her, than the enjoyment of my _lingua mortua_, which no doubt contributed very efficaciously to support her strength and spirits, for I soon found by the lightness of the basket, that her own stores were insufficient for so prolonged a voyage, or as sailors would express it, that she was in danger of experiencing a southerly wind in the bread-bag.

It was true that this was Friday, but my fair companion was not in a situation to think of _maigre_ day, even had it been _Vendrédi saint_ itself. I believe the influence of the French Revolution, has contributed materially to lessen the superstitions of the Catholic countries, which have been exposed to its action. I have heard a French officer remark, that for his part he had met with a sufficient number of maigre days during the war, and could now afford no more, but must live _gras_ to make up for what he had lost. The priests still contrive to make many women, children, and servants, observe their ordinances, but the men have ventured, pretty generally, to throw off their restraint.

On Saturday, soon after day-break, the lady, peeping out of a hole in the canvas screen, found that the vessel was moving along, by observing the masts pass by the trees on shore; and immediately called out aloud for the captain. We at first attributed her exclamations to her fears; but soon perceived that the ship was actually drifting from the shore, and taking the anchor with her. All hands were called, and the anchor got in, when we fortunately found that the wind, although far from fair, had become moderate enough, to allow us to make sail, and as the day advanced, it became still more propitious. About four in the afternoon, we got round cape Noli, being obliged however to make a few tacks to accomplish it; at this point I heard the sea beating against the rocks, and roaring in the hollow caverns, and could perceive, by the motion of the vessel, that we were near breakers; but so long as our sailors expressed no fears, I felt no apprehension, as I was satisfied, that while they could use their eyes they would run no risk. The character of the Italian, differs widely from that of the British sailor; the former loses his presence of mind by his fears, and makes confusion more confused; the latter, so long as his ship continues unbroken, retains his undaunted spirit, and only contemplates how to apply his energies with most effect.

“⸺E’en should danger round his fenceless head,
Her threatening weight of mountain surges spread,
He, like a whale, amid the tempest’s roar,
Smiles at the storm, nor deigns to wish it o’er.”

After weathering cape Noli, the wind became more favourable, and allowed us to shape our course for Genoa, and had we pursued it properly, I am persuaded that we might have made the lighthouse of that place in four hours, but our captain, in reply to my urgency in this respect, stated, what was certainly not unreasonable, that as his provision was exhausted, if by any chance we should be blown off the coast, the vessel might be lost, or the crew perish from hunger. He therefore determined to put into Noli, off which place we anchored at nine o’clock, when, with a part of his crew, he immediately went on shore to procure provisions, and amuse himself.

Noli was formerly a place of some repute, constituting a republic of fishermen: it is now a mere fishing-town. The castle still remains.

The captain returned between ten and eleven o’clock, and, according to my request, brought with him some bread and wine to increase my little store. The bread had a peculiar sweet taste, which, I was informed, was in consequence of chesnuts being mixed with the wheaten flour. The wine was good, and made us merry before lying down for the night, and we felt happy in the prospect of reaching our destined port on the following day. In the early part of the next morning, on passing Savona, the captain went on shore, to order some new sails, which he stated were to be procured cheaper there than at Genoa, and returned at twelve o’clock; when a contrary breeze having sprung up, he declared his intention of running into that port, as he was confident that we were going to have bad weather, and should be obliged to put back to it at last. Thus we had the mortification of being again detained at the distance of thirty miles from Genoa, and only ten from the port we had left in the morning, after having already occupied six days in a voyage, which, with a fair passage, ought to have been completed in forty-eight hours, and has sometimes been effected in sixteen.

We anchored at Savona about one o’clock, and experienced a delightful afternoon. The port at this place is by nature very fine, and was formerly capable of receiving vessels of war, but has been obstructed materially at its entrance, by the jealousy of the Genoese, under the specious pretence of preventing its harbouring hostile shipping.

As there was no prospect of continuing our voyage to-day, my companion and myself went on shore, after dinner, and amused ourselves with a walk in the country; after an hour’s march, we reached a small town, named Albisola, remarkable for its porcelain manufactory; my companion saw, however, nothing but black plates: on our way, we fell in with a genteel young man, a native of Albisola, who gave us much local information; after which, we passed a lady and gentleman, who, we were informed, were the mayor of the place and his lady, on their way to a concert at Savona. We found Savona a small neat town, pleasantly situated, and entering some of the shops, made a few trifling purchases, and were remarkably struck with the politeness of the Italian shop-keepers. On inquiring the time of day, we were answered, “twenty-three hours and a half;” this appeared a very extraordinary manner of noting the time: the fact is, however, that, in Italy, their calculation always commences at sun-set, which is their twenty-fourth hour, and consequently, must vary according to the varying seasons of the year, which makes their mode of computation exceedingly difficult for a stranger to comprehend. In addition to the above, I had another indication of being in Italy, from the universal use of that language; in short, my companion conversed with every one in Italian, and then translated it for me into French; and I was much pleased with the specimen I here received both of the manners and language of the country.

In the evening we returned to our vessel to sleep, in order to be prepared for any favourable change in the wind, but determined, in case of its not shifting, to disembark with our baggage in the morning, and proceed to Genoa by land. We were cheerful and happy in the prospect of our difficulties being soon terminated, and after regaling the crew with wine, retired to rest.

We rose with day-break, and finding the wind still adverse, after settling with the captain, went on shore, and taking places in the voiture to Genoa, determined no longer to be the sport of the winds. There were but two vacancies in the coach, and finding our anxiety to proceed with it, the conducteur would fain have taken advantage of it, but the lady managed the affair well, for offering what she knew to be the usual sum, viz. five francs for each of us; on their refusal to accept it, under the plea that there was no other coach that day, we walked off, and pretended to be indifferent about it: this manœuvre brought them to, and before we had proceeded the length of a street, the conducteur came running after us, to say that he was willing to take us; after this, however, we had some trouble to get our luggage to the carriage, and were obliged to walk part of the way out of town, in doing which we were followed by the most importunate host of beggars I had ever witnessed in my life; my companion was so confused that she could with difficulty count out her money to pay the porters, &c. At length our supplicants dropped off, one by one, until we literally out-walked them all.

I ought not to take leave of Savona, without mentioning, that at this point the maritime Alps terminate, and the Apennines commence.

About four o’clock, we passed through a village, stated to be the birth-place of Columbus: this information excited much interest in my mind: I was led to reflect upon the manner in which his extraordinary genius had surmounted the various obstacles opposed to his discovery of a new world, and to regret the supineness of my own country, which might otherwise have had the honour of participating in so important an event; but the enlivening conversation of our party, would not admit of my indulging freely in such speculations, and ere long we made our entry through the gates of Genoa.

CHAP. XIII.

GENOA.—VOYAGE TO LEGHORN, AND JOURNEY TO FLORENCE.

The narrowness of the streets prevented our coach from setting me down at the hotel to which I had been recommended; this is not, however, to be regarded as any evidence of its want of respectability, for the same objection lies against almost every other hotel in Genoa: for there are but three streets in the whole city which will admit of carriages passing each other, and which are, the Strada balba, the Strada nuova, and the Strada novissima, consisting entirely of ranges of palaces. I was disappointed in not finding accommodation at the hotel in question, and therefore, on the solicitations of a man who had followed me all the way from the coach, went to the Piccolo Paregé, a large house near the port, with a tower on the top of it, from whence there is a fine view of the harbour and shipping. After enjoying the luxury of what was formerly directed by some of the ancients as a religious ceremony, ablution, I retired to a comfortable bed, for the first time since I left Nice.

In the morning, after calling at the post-office and at the British consul’s to ascertain the state of the Neapolitan war, I proceeded to explore the town; the weather was, however, wet, cold, and uncomfortable, and I was sensible of a very different climate from that of Nice; indeed, I was informed that, during some of our finest days at the latter place, it rained or snowed at Genoa.

The succeeding day was the last of the Carnival, and a great number of people were parading the streets masked, and in all the fantastic garb of the season; the business, however, appeared to be kept up with more spirit than at Toulouse on the preceding winter. In the course of the evening a person with whom I was walking addressed a female mask, who said she was cook in a gentleman’s family, and that she must hasten home to wash the dishes; on parting, we induced her to shake hands with us; and if I am a judge of the affair, I pronounce that _her_ hand had never been in dish-water, for a prettier formed, or more delicate one, I never touched in my life. In the evening, the festival concluded with masked-balls at the theatres, and other amusements.

On the following day (Wednesday), the weather was still unfavourable. Several gentlemen, to whom I had forwarded letters from their friends at Nice, called upon me, two of whom conducted me to various parts of the city, and described its beauties. It is surrounded by two walls; an inner one, taking in a circumference of six or seven miles, and an outer one, making a boundary of not less than thirteen miles, and enclosing various rising grounds which command the city: there are two fine bridges over small rivers, one in the eastern, the other in the western part of the town.

Independent of the three streets which I have already named, Genoa consists of little better than lanes, so numerous and intricate, that a stranger is constantly losing his way; and even those who have been some time resident are not unfrequently at a loss. The cathedral, churches, Doge’s palace, and various other public as well as private buildings, are very fine, and well worth the attention of the traveller.

There is an Italian proverb relative to Genoa, which says, that it has “sea without fish; land without trees; and men without faith.” The first of these accusations I am satisfied is without foundation: for I was given to understand that fish, as well as all other provisions, were plentiful, and even cheaper than at Nice. The wine of the country is not considered good, but excellent Italian and French wines may be purchased at a reasonable rate; the best and cheapest way of procuring them is to go on board some vessel in the port, taste the different qualities, and select what pleases the palate; any quantity may then be ordered, but it is advisable to be provided with a porter or two to carry it away immediately, and to take care not to lose sight of it, until it reaches home in safety, or it will run great risk of being changed.

After spending two or three days longer at Genoa, I engaged for my passage in a felucca to Leghorn, and what is singular, it had the same name, the Divine Providence, as the one I had so lately sailed in from Nice. A great number of vessels of this kind are continually passing from hence to Leghorn, and the felucca men, if they have an idea of any one being about to undertake the voyage, are extremely troublesome in pestering him, as he passes along the streets, to sail with them, and will even fish the servants at his hotel, to gain intelligence of his intended proceedings. In arranging the point of fare with them, it is necessary to be very cautious, as they will ask four times the usual rate.

I agreed for twelve francs, the sum which the master of the felucca had found out, that I had paid for my passage from Nice; it cost me, however, half as much more in gratuities, and other expenses, and I had afterward the mortification to find, that other passengers had secured the same accommodations, for only five francs each.

About six o’clock on the evening of Saturday, March the 11th, the captain came to apprize me that the vessel was waiting. On getting on board there was very little wind, so that throughout the night, we were obliged to make use of our oars as well as sails; at day-break a breeze sprang up from the eastward, which obliged us to turn back for fifteen miles, towards Porto Fino, where we anchored at ten o’clock, and went on shore to a miserable auberge.

Among our passengers were two French gentlemen who were friends, but of very opposite characters; the one was volatile, and thoughtless, and talked of proceeding to Naples, and offering his services to the patriot army, the other who, we understood, had been a merchant, was sedate and thoughtful, so that, I dare say, pounds, shillings, and pence might have been read in his face. The lively one amused us, not a little, with his eccentricity; he spoke of having a mistress at Genoa, whom he had engaged to marry that very morning, but he stated that the present was not the first time of his having proved faithless to her, and seemed to exult in her disappointment; it, however, appeared in the sequel that he could not reconcile himself to give her up, for after we entered Porto Fino, he began to repent, and earnestly solicit his friend to return to Genoa with him, offering to pay all expenses; at length, the other acceded to his wishes, and they left us, which was to myself a source of considerable regret as I lost, at least, one amusing companion, whose language I could understand, and had no one left with whom I could converse. In order to get back to Genoa, these gentlemen had to pull five or six miles, in the midst of a heavy rain, and in an open boat, in a _contrary_ direction, until they reached the new road making between Genoa and Spezzia.

This road when completed, will be an incalculable advantage to the communications with the southern parts of Italy; the old road to Florence, over the mountains, being a very indirect one; although an expensive undertaking, there is little doubt but that this will be compensated, as many thousands, who in order to reach southern Italy, now go by sea to Lerici and Leghorn, will then prefer the journey by land; and in the event of an equally good communication being formed between Genoa and Nice, a strong inducement will be offered to the traveller, to enter this country by that route, particularly in the winter season. This has been partially effected under the auspices of Bonaparte; the present Sardinian government, however, are not disposed to carry it forward, as they are naturally jealous of affording their neighbours, the French, so easy an access into the heart of their country.

Throughout the remainder of this, and part of the next day, the weather continued unfavourable, and we made no attempt to leave Porto Fino; however, in the afternoon of the latter we sailed, but in the evening it fell calm, and we took to our oars throughout the night; about noon, on the following day, a light and favourable air sprang up, which soon increased to a moderate breeze; about three o’clock we arrived at the entrance of the Gulf of Spezzia, where to my great concern, notwithstanding I said every thing to induce him to push on as the wind was fair, the captain persisted in coming to an anchor, when every one went on shore, excepting two seamen and myself;—had we continued our course, we should probably have reached Leghorn before daylight on the following morning; whereas, from the neglect, our voyage was rendered a most tedious one. The fact was, that the captain and many of his crew, were at this place, in the midst of their friends.

In the middle of the Gulf of Spezzia there is a constant spring of fresh water, which is a matter of astonishment to most people, but the phenomenon is not difficult to account for; as the ancients who were well acquainted with this gulf, by them termed Porta Luna, do not name it, it is probably of subsequent occurrence and volcanic origin, and perhaps supplied from reservoirs contained within the adjacent Apennine mountains.

I was informed by the sailors, that a new light-house is nearly completed at the entrance of this gulf, which must be a most important security to vessels passing that way.

The town of Carrara, so celebrated for its quarries of beautiful marble, used for the purposes of sculpture, is situated in this neighbourhood.

We were tacking about all the following day, and at times assisted with the weather oars, at which I occasionally took my place, by way of exercise; in the forenoon we passed the mouth of one river, and in the evening arrived at the entrance of another, the Sier, distant about eight miles from the Arno, and twenty from Leghorn.

We entered the mouth of this river, and secured our vessel under a fort, with the object of procuring provisions, for our Genoa stores were now nearly exhausted. We had an additional view, to seek for protection and security, for the weather had become very cloudy, and the captain felt assured that the night would prove stormy, which in fact it did, a severe gale, with heavy rain, coming on at ten o’clock.