Chapter XIV: Book IV (1)
AN ACCOUNT OF COUNTRIES, NATIONS, SEAS, TOWNS, HAVENS, MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, DISTANCES, AND PEOPLES WHO NOW EXIST OR FORMERLY EXISTED.
CHAP. 1. (1.)—EPIRUS.
The third great Gulf of Europe begins at the mountains of Acroceraunia[2083], and ends at the Hellespont, embracing an extent of 2500 miles, exclusive of the sea-line of nineteen smaller gulfs. Upon it are Epirus, Acarnania, Ætolia, Phocis, Locris, Achaia, Messenia, Laconia, Argolis, Megaris, Attica, Bœotia; and again, upon the other sea[2084], the same Phocis and Locris, Doris, Phthiotis, Thessalia, Magnesia, Macedonia and Thracia. All the fabulous lore of Greece, as well as the effulgence of her literature, first shone forth upon the banks of this Gulf. We shall therefore dwell a little the longer upon it.
Epirus[2085], generally so called, begins at the mountains of Acroceraunia. The first people that we meet are the Chaones, from whom Chaonia[2086] receives its name, then the Thesproti[2087], and then the Antigonenses[2088]. We then come to the place where Aornos[2089] stood, with its exhalations so deadly to the feathered race, the Cestrini[2090], the Perrhæbi[2091], in whose country Mount Pindus is situate, the Cassiopæi[2092], the Dryopes[2093], the Sellæ[2094], the Hellopes[2095], the Molossi, in whose territory is the temple of the Dodonæan Jupiter, so famous for its oracle; and Mount Tomarus[2096], so highly praised by Theopompus, with its hundred springs gushing from its foot.
(2.) Epirus, properly so called, advances towards Magnesia and Macedonia, having at its back the Dassaretæ, previously[2097] mentioned, a free nation, and after them the Dardani, a savage race. On the left hand, before the Dardani are extended the Triballi and the nations of Mœsia, while in front of them the Medi and the Denselatæ join, and next to them the Thracians, who stretch away as far as the Euxine: in such a manner is a rampart raised around the lofty heights of Rhodope, and then of Hæmus.
On the coast of Epirus is the fortress of Chimæra[2098], situate upon the Acroceraunian range, and below it the spring known as the Royal Waters[2099]; then the towns of Mæandria, and Cestria[2100], the Thyamis[2101], a river of Thesprotia, the colony of Buthrotum[2102], and the Ambracian Gulf[2103], so famed in history; which, with an inlet only half a mile in width, receives a vast body of water from the sea, being thirty-seven miles in length, and fifteen in width. The river Acheron, which runs through Acherusia, a lake of Thesprotia, flows into it[2104] after a course of thirty-six miles; it is considered wonderful for its bridge, 1000 feet in length, by a people who look upon everything as wonderful that belongs to themselves. Upon this Gulf is also situate the town of Ambracia. There are also the Aphas and the Arachthus[2105], rivers of the Molossi; the city of Anactoria[2106], and the place where Pandosia[2107] stood.
CHAP. 2.—ACARNANIA.
The towns of Acarnania[2108], the ancient name of which was Curetis, are Heraclia[2109], Echinus[2110], and, on the coast, Actium, a colony founded by Augustus, with its famous temple of Apollo and the free city of Nicopolis[2111]. Passing out of the Ambracian Gulf into the Ionian Sea, we come to the coast of Leucadia, with the Promontory of Leucate[2112], and then the Gulf and the peninsula of Leucadia[2113], which last was formerly called Neritis[2114]. By the exertions of the inhabitants it was once cut off from the mainland, but was again joined to it by the vast bodies of sand accumulated through the action of the winds. This spot is called Dioryctos[2115], and is three stadia in length: on the peninsula is the town of Leucas, formerly called Neritus[2116]. We next come to Alyzia[2117], Stratos[2118], and Argos[2119], surnamed Amphilochian, cities of the Acarnanians: the river Acheloüs[2120] flows from the heights of Pindus, and, after separating Acarnania from Ætolia, is fast adding the island of Artemita[2121] to the mainland by the continual deposits of earth which it brings down its stream.
CHAP. 3. (2.)—ÆTOLIA.
The peoples of Ætolia are the Athamanes[2122], the Tymphæi[2123], the Ephyri[2124], the Ænienses, the Perrhæbi[2125], the Dolopes[2126], the Maraces, and the Atraces[2127], in whose territory rises the river Atrax, which flows into the Ionian Sea. Calydon[2128] is a city of Ætolia, situate at a distance of seven miles from the sea, and near the banks of the river Evenus[2129]. We then come to Macynia[2130], and Molycria, behind which lie Mounts Chalcis[2131] and Taphiassus. On the coast again, there is the promontory of Antirrhium[2132], off which is the mouth of the Corinthian Gulf, which flows in and separates Ætolia from the Peloponnesus, being less[2133] than one mile in width. The promontory which faces it on the opposite side is called Rhion[2134]. The towns of Ætolia, however, on the Corinthian Gulf are Naupactus[2135] and Pylene[2136]; and, more inland, Pleuron and Halicyrna[2137]. The most famous mountains are Tomarus, in the district of Dodona, Crania[2138] in Ambracia, Aracynthus[2139] in Acarnania, and Acanthon[2140], Panætolium[2141], and Macynium[2142], in Ætolia.
CHAP. 4. (3.)—LOCRIS AND PHOCIS.
Next to Ætolia are the Locri[2143], surnamed Ozolæ; a people exempt from tribute. Here is the town of Œanthe[2144], the port[2145] of Apollo Phæstius, and the Gulf of Crissa[2146]. In the interior are the towns of Argyna, Eupalia[2147], Phæstum, and Calamisus. Beyond are the Cirrhæan plains of Phocis, the town of Cirrha[2148], and the port of Chalæon[2149], seven miles from which, in the interior, is situate the free town of Delphi[2150], at the foot of Mount Parnassus[2151], and having the most celebrated oracle of Apollo throughout the whole world. There is the Fountain too of Castalia[2152], and the river Cephisus[2153] which flows past Delphi, rising in the former city of Lilæa[2154]. Besides these, there is the town of Crissa[2155] and that of Anticyra[2156], with the Bulenses[2157]; as also Naulochum[2158], Pyrrha, Amphissa[2159], exempt from all tribute, Tithrone, Tritea[2160], Ambrysus[2161], and Drymæa[2162], which district has also the name of Daulis. The extremity of the gulf washes one corner of Bœotia, with its towns of Siphæ[2163] and Thebes[2164], surnamed the Corsian, in the vicinity of Helicon[2165]. The third town of Bœotia on this sea is that of Pagæ[2166], from which point the Isthmus of the Peloponnesus projects in the form of a neck.
CHAP. 5. (4.)—THE PELOPONNESUS.
The Peloponnesus, which was formerly called Apia[2167] and Pelasgia, is a peninsula, inferior in fame to no land upon the face of the earth. Situate between the two seas, the Ægean and the Ionian, it is in shape like the leaf of a plane-tree, in consequence of the angular indentations made in its shores. According to Isidorus, it is 563 miles in circumference; and nearly as much again, allowing for the sea-line on the margin of its gulfs. The narrow pass at which it commences is known by the name of the Isthmus. At this spot the two seas, which we have previously mentioned, running from the north and the east, invade the land from opposite sides[2168], and swallow up its entire breadth, the result being that through these inroads in opposite directions of such vast bodies of water, the sides of the land are eaten away to such an extent, that Hellas[2169] only holds on to the Peloponnesus by the narrow neck, five miles in width, which intervenes. The Gulfs thus formed, the one on this side, the other on that, are known as the Corinthian[2170] and the Saronic Gulfs. The ports of Lecheæ[2171], on the one side, and of Cenchreæ on the other, form the frontiers of this narrow passage, which thus compels to a tedious and perilous circumnavigation such vessels as from their magnitude cannot be carried across by land on vehicles. For this reason it is that both King Demetrius[2172], Cæsar the Dictator, the prince Caius[2173], and Domitius Nero[2174], have at different times made the attempt to cut through this neck by forming a navigable canal; a profane design, as may be clearly seen by the result[2175] in every one of these instances.
Upon the middle of this intervening neck which we have called the Isthmus, stands the colony of Corinth, formerly known by the name of Ephyre[2176], situate upon the brow of a hill, at a distance of sixty stadia from the shore of either sea. From the heights of its citadel, which is called Acrocorinthos, or the “Heights of Corinth,” and in which is the Fountain of Pirene, it looks down upon the two seas which lie in the opposite directions. From Leucas to Patræ upon the Corinthian gulf is a distance of eighty-eight miles. The colony of Patræ[2177] is founded upon the most extensive promontory of the Peloponnesus, facing Ætolia and the river Evenus, the Corinthian Gulf being, as we have previously[2178] stated, less than a mile in width at the entrance there, though extending in length as far as the isthmus, a distance of eighty-five miles.
CHAP. 6. (5.)—ACHAIA.
The province called Achaia[2179] begins at the Isthmus; from the circumstance of its cities being ranged in regular succession on its coast, it formerly had the name of Ægialos[2180]. The first place there is Lecheæ, already mentioned, a port of the Corinthians; next to which is Olyros[2181], a fortress of the people of Pellene[2182]; then the former towns of Helice and Bura[2183], and the places in which their inhabitants took refuge after their towns had been swallowed up by the sea, Sicyon[2184] namely, Ægira[2185], Ægium, and Erineos[2186]. In the interior are Cleonæ and Hysiæ[2187]; then come the port of Panormus[2188], and Rhium already mentioned; from which promontory, Patræ, of which we have previously spoken, is distant five miles; and then the place where Pheræ[2189] stood. Of the nine mountains of Achaia, Scioessa is the most famous; there is also the Fountain of Cymothoë. Beyond Patræ we find the town of Olenum[2190], the colony of Dyme[2191], the places where Buprasium[2192] and Hyrmine once stood, the Promontory of Araxus[2193], the Bay of Cyllene, and the Promontory of Chelonates, at five miles’ distance from Cyllene[2194]. There is also the fortress of Phlius[2195]; the district around which was called by Homer Aræthyrea[2196], and, after his time, Asopis.
The territory of the Eleans then begins, who were formerly called Epei, with the city of Elis[2197] in the interior, and, at a distance of twelve miles from Phlius, being also in the interior, the temple of Olympian Jupiter, which by the universal celebrity of its games, gives to Greece its mode of reckoning[2198]. Here too once stood the town of Pisa[2199], the river Alpheus flowing past it. On the coast there is the Promontory of Ichthys[2200]. The river Alpheus is navigable six miles, nearly as far as the towns of Aulon[2201] and Leprion. We next come to the Promontory of Platanodes[2202]. All these localities lie to the west.
CHAP. 7.—MESSENIA.
Further south is the Gulf of Cyparissus, with the city of Cyparissa[2203] on its shores, the line of which is seventy-two miles in length. Then, the towns of Pylos[2204] and Methone[2205], the place where Helos stood, the Promontory of Acritas[2206], the Asinæan Gulf, which takes its name from the town of Asine[2207], and the Coronean, so called from Corone; which gulfs terminate at the Promontory of Tænarum[2208]. These are all in the country of Messenia, which has eighteen mountains, and the river Pamisus[2209] also. In the interior are Messene[2210], Ithome, Œchalia, Arene[2211], Pteleon, Thryon, Dorion[2212], and Zancle[2213], all of them known to fame at different periods. The margin of this gulf measures eighty miles, the distance across being thirty.
CHAP. 8.—LACONIA.
At Tænarum begins the territory of Laconia, inhabited by a free nation, and situate on a gulf 106 miles in circuit, and 38 across. The towns are, Tænarum[2214], Amyclæ[2215], Pheræ[2216], and Leuctra[2217]; and, in the interior, Sparta[2218], Theramne[2219], and the spots where Cardamyle[2220], Pitane[2221], and Anthea formerly stood; the former site of Thyrea[2222], and Gerania[2223]. Here is also Mount Taygetus[2224], the river Eurotas, the Gulf of Ægilodes[2225], the town of Psamathus, the Gulf of Gytheum[2226], so called from the town of that name, from which place the passage is the safest across to the island of Crete. All these places are bounded by the Promontory of Malea[2227].
CHAP. 9.—ARGOLIS.
The next gulf, which extends as far as Scyllæum[2228], is called the Argolic Gulf, being fifty miles across, and 162 in circuit. The towns upon it are, Bœa[2229], Epidaurus[2230], surnamed Limera, Zarax[2231], and the port of Cyphanta[2232]. The rivers are the Inachus[2233] and the Erasinus, between which lies Argos, surnamed Hippium[2234], situate beyond the place called Lerna[2235], and at a distance of two miles from the sea. Nine miles farther is Mycenæ[2236], and the place where, it is said, Tiryns[2237] stood; the site, too, of Mantinea[2238]. The mountains are, Artemius, Apesantus[2239], Asterion[2240], Parparus, and some others, eleven in number. The fountains are those of Niobe[2241], Amymone, and Psamathe.
From Scyllæum to the Isthmus of Corinth is a distance of 177 miles. We find here the towns of Hermione[2242], Trœzen[2243], Coryphasium[2244], and Argos, sometimes called “Inachian,” sometimes “Dipsian”[2245] Argos. Then comes the port of Schœnites[2246], and the Saronic Gulf, which was formerly encircled with a grove of oaks[2247], from which it derives its present name, oaks in ancient Greece having been so called. Upon this gulf is the town of Epidaurus, famous for its temple of Æsculapius[2248], the Promontory of Spiræum[2249], the port of Anthedus[2250], Bucephalus[2251], and then Cenchreæ, previously mentioned, on this side of the Isthmus, with its temple of Neptune[2252], famous for the games celebrated there every five years. So many are the gulfs which penetrate the shores of the Peloponnesus, so many the seas which howl around it. Invaded by the Ionian on the north, it is beaten by the Sicilian on the west, buffeted by the Cretan on the south, by the Ægean on the S.E., and by the Myrtoan on the N.E.; which last sea begins at the Gulf of Megara, and washes all the coast of Attica.
CHAP. 10. (6.)—ARCADIA.
Its interior is occupied for the greater part by Arcadia, which, remote from the sea on every side, was originally called Drymodes[2253], and at a later period Pelasgis. The cities of Arcadia are, Psophis[2254], Mantinea[2255], Stymphalus[2256], Tegea[2257], Antigonea[2258], Orchomenus[2259], Pheneum[2260], Palantium[2261] (from which the Palatium[2262] at Rome derives its name), Megalopolis[2263], Gortyna[2264], Bucolium, Carnion, Parrhasia[2265], Thelpusa[2266], Melænæ[2267], Heræa[2268], Pylæ[2269], Pallene, Agræ, Epium, Cynæthæ[2270], Lepreon of Arcadia[2271], Parthenium[2272], Alea, Methydrium[2273], Enispe, Macistum, Lampia, Clitorium[2274], and Cleonæ[2275]; between which two last towns is the district of Nemea, commonly known as Bembinadia[2276].
The mountains of Arcadia are, Pholoë[2277], with a town of the same name, Cyllene[2278], Lycæus[2279], upon which is the temple of Lycæan Jupiter; Mænalus[2280], Artemisius[2281], Parthenius[2282], Lampeus[2283], and Nonacris[2284], besides eight others of no note. The rivers are the Ladon[2285], which rises in the marshes of Pheneus[2286], and the Erymanthus[2287], which springs from a mountain of the same name, and flows into the Alpheus.
The other cities of Achaia worthy of mention are those of the Aliphiræi[2288], the Abeatæ[2289], the Pyrgenses[2290], the Paroreatæ[2291], the Paragenitæ, the Tortuni, the Typanei[2292], the Thriasii[2293], and the Tritienses[2294]. Domitius Nero [the emperor] granted liberty to the whole of Achaia[2295]. The Peloponnesus, from the Promontory of Malea to the town of Ægium[2296] on the Corinthian Gulf, is 190 miles in length, and 125 miles across from Elis to Epidaurus; the distance being, from Olympia to Argos, through Arcadia, sixty-eight miles. The distance from Olympia to Phlius has been already mentioned[2297]. Throughout the whole of this region, as though nature had been desirous to compensate for the inroads of the sea, seventy-six mountains raise their lofty heads.
CHAP. 11. (7.)—ATTICA.
At the narrow neck of the Isthmus, Hellas begins, by our people known as Græcia. The first state that presents itself is Attica, anciently called Acte[2298]. It touches the Isthmus in that part of it which is called Megaris, from the colony of Megara[2299], lying on the opposite side to Pagæ[2300].
These two towns are situate at the spot where the Peloponnesus projects to the greatest distance; being placed, one on each side, upon the very shoulders of Hellas as it were. The Pagæans, as well as the people of Ægosthena[2301], belong to the jurisdiction of Megara. On the coast there is the port of Schœnos[2302], the towns of Sidus[2303] and Cremmyon[2304], the Scironian Rocks[2305], six miles in length, Geranea, Megara, and Eleusis[2306]. Œnoë[2307] and Probalinthos also formerly existed here; the ports of Piræus and Phalerum[2308] are distant from the Isthmus fifty-five miles, being united to Athens, which lies in the interior, by a wall[2309] five miles in length. Athens is a free city, and needs[2310] not a word more from us in its commendation; of fame it enjoys even more than enough. In Attica there are the Fountains of Cephisia[2311], Larine, Callirrhoë Enneacrunos[2312], and the mountains of Brilessus[2313], Ægialeus, Icarius, Hymettus[2314], Lycabettus[2315], and the place where Ilissus[2316] stood. At the distance of forty-five miles from the Piræus is the Promontory of Sunium[2317]. There is also the Promontory of Thoricos[2318]; Potamos[2319], Steria[2320], and Brauron[2321], once towns, the borough of Rhamnus[2322], the place where Marathon[2323] stood, the Thriasian[2324] plain, the town of Melite[2325], and Oropus[2326] upon the confines of Bœotia.
CHAP. 12.—BŒOTIA.
In this country are Anthedon[2327], Onchestus[2328], the free town of Thespiæ[2329], Lebadea[2330], and then Thebes[2331], surnamed Bœotian[2332], which does not yield the palm to Athens even in celebrity; the native land, according to the common notion, of the two Divinities Liber and Hercules. The birth-place of the Muses too is pointed out in the grove of Helicon. To this same Thebes also belong the forest of Cithæron[2333], and the river Ismenus. Besides these, there are in Bœotia the Fountains of Œdipodia, Psamathe, Dirce, Epicrane, Arethusa, Hippocrene[2334], Aganippe, and Gargaphie; and, besides the mountains already mentioned, Mycalesos, Hadylius, and Acontius. The remaining towns between Megara and Thebes are Eleutheræ[2335], Haliartus[2336], Platææ[2337], Pheræ, Aspledon[2338], Hyle[2339], Thisbe[2340], Erythræ[2341], Glissas[2342], and Copæ[2343]; near the river Cephisus, Larymna and Anchoa[2344]; as also Medeon, Phlygone, Acræphia[2345], Coronea[2346], and Chæronea[2347]. Again, on the coast and below Thebes, are Ocalea[2348], Heleon, Scolos, Schœnos[2349], Peteon[2350], Hyriæ[2351], Mycalesos[2352], Iresion, Pteleon, Olyros, and Tanagra[2353], the people of which are free; and, situate upon the very mouth of the Euripus[2354], a strait formed by the opposite island of Eubœa, Aulis[2355], so famous for its capacious harbour. The Bœotians formerly had the name of Hyantes.
After them come the Locrians, surnamed Epicnemidii[2356], formerly called Leleges, through whose country the river Cephisus passes, in its course to the sea. Their towns are Opus[2357]; from which the Opuntian Gulf[2358] takes its name, and Cynos. Daphnus[2359] is the only town of Phocis situate on the coast. In the interior of Locris is Elatea[2360], and on the banks of the Cephisus, as we have previously stated[2361], Lilæa, and, facing Delphi, Cnemisæ[2362] and Hyampolisæ[2363]. Again, upon the coast of the Locrians, are Larymna[2364], and Thronium[2365], near which last the river Boagrius enters the sea. Also, the towns of Narycion, Alope[2366], and Scarphia[2367]; and then the gulf which receives the name of the Maliac[2368] from the people who dwell there, and upon which are the towns of Halcyone, Econia, and Phalara[2369].
CHAP. 13.—DORIS.
Doris comes next, in which are Sperchios[2370], Erineon[2371], Boion[2372], Pindus, and Cytinum[2373]. Behind Doris lies Mount Œta.
CHAP. 14.—PHTHIOTIS.
Hæmonia follows, a country which has often changed its name, having been successively called Pelasgic Argos, Hellas, Thessaly, and Dryopis, always taking its surname from its kings. In this country was born the king whose name was Græcus; and from whom Græcia was so called; and here too was born Hellen[2374], from whom the Hellenes derive their name. The same people Homer has called by three different names, Myrmidones, Hellenes, and Achæi.
That portion of these people which inhabit the country adjacent to Doris are called Phthiotæ. Their towns are Echinus[2375], at the mouth of the river Sperchius, and, at four miles from the narrow pass of Thermopylæ[2376], Heraclea, which from it takes its surname of Trachin[2377]. Here too is Mount Callidromus[2378], and the celebrated towns of Hellas[2379], Halos[2380], Lamia[2381], Phthia[2382], and Arne[2383].
CHAP. 15. (8.)—THESSALY PROPER.
In Thessaly is Orchomenus, formerly called the Minyan[2384], and the towns of Almon, by some called Salmon, Atrax[2385], and Pelinna; the Fountain of Hyperia; the towns also of Pheræ[2386], at the back of which is Pieria[2387], extending to Macedonia, Larisa[2388], Gomphi[2389], Thebes[2390] of Thessaly, the grove of Pteleon, the Gulf of Pagasa, the town of Pagasa[2391], which was afterwards called Demetrias[2392], the Plains of Pharsalia, with a free city of similar name[2393], Crannon[2394], and Iletia. The mountains of Phthiotis are Nymphæus, once so beautiful for its garden scenery, the work of nature; Busygæus, Donacesa, Bermius[2395], Daphusa, Chimerion, Athamas, and Stephane. In Thessaly there are thirty-four, of which the most famous are Cercetii, Olympus[2396], Pierus, and Ossa, opposite to which last are Pindus and Othrys, the abodes of the Lapithæ. These mountains look towards the west, Pelion[2397] towards the east, all of them forming a curve like an amphitheatre, in the interior of which, lying before them, are no less than seventy-five cities. The rivers of Thessaly are the Apidanus[2398], the Phœnix[2399], the Enipeus[2400], the Onochonus[2401], and the Pamisus. There is also the Fountain of Messeis, and the lake Bœbeis[2402]. The river Peneus[2403] too, superior to all others in celebrity, takes its rise near Gomphi, and flows down a well-wooded valley between Ossa and Olympus, a distance of five hundred stadia, being navigable half that distance. The vale, for a distance of five miles through which this river runs, is called by the name of Tempe; being a jugerum[2404] and a half nearly in breadth, while on the right and left, the mountain chain slopes away with a gentle elevation, beyond the range of human vision, the foliage imparting its colour to the light within. Along this vale glides the Peneus, reflecting the green tints as it rolls along its pebbly bed, its banks covered with tufts of verdant herbage, and enlivened by the melodious warblings of the birds. The Peneus receives the river Orcus, or rather, I should say, does not receive it, but merely carries its waters, which swim on its surface like oil, as Homer says[2405]; and then, after a short time, rejects them, refusing to allow the waters of a river devoted to penal sufferings and engendered for the Furies to mingle with his silvery streams.
CHAP. 16. (9.)—MAGNESIA.
To Thessaly Magnesia joins, in which is the fountain of Libethra[2406]. Its towns are Iolcos[2407], Hormenium, Pyrrha[2408], Methone[2409], and Olizon[2410]. The Promontory of Sepias[2411] is here situate. We then come to the towns of Casthanea[2412] and Spalathra[2413], the Promontory of Æantium[2414], the towns of Melibœa[2415], Rhizus, and Erymnæ[2416]; the mouth of the Peneus, the towns of Homolium[2417], Orthe, Thespiæ, Phalanna[2418], Thaumacie[2419], Gyrton[2420], Crannon[2421], Acharne[2422], Dotion[2423], Melitæa, Phylace[2424], and Potniæ[2425]. The length of Epirus, Achaia, Attica, and Thessaly is said altogether to amount to 490 miles, the breadth to 287.
CHAP. 17. (10.)—MACEDONIA.
Macedonia comes next, including 150 nations, and renowned for its two kings[2426] and its former empire over the world; it was formerly known by the name of Emathia[2427]. Stretching away towards the nations of Epirus on the west it lies at the back of Magnesia and Thessaly, being itself exposed to the attacks of the Dardani[2428]. Pæonia and Pelagonia protect its northern parts from the Triballi[2429]. Its towns are Ægiæ[2430], at which place its kings were usually buried, Beræa[2431], and, in the country called Pieria from the grove of that name, Æginium[2432]. Upon the coast are Heraclea[2433], the river Apilas[2434], the towns of Pydna[2435] and Aloros[2436], and the river Haliacmon[2437]. In the interior are the Aloritæ[2438], the Vallæi[2439], the Phylacæi, the Cyrrhestæ[2440], the Tyrissæi, the colony of Pella[2441], and Stobi[2442], a town with the rights of Roman citizens. Next comes Antigonea[2443], Europus[2444] upon the river Axius, and another place of the same name by which the Rhœdias flows, Scydra, Eordæa, Mieza, and Gordyniæ. Then, upon the coast, Ichnæ[2445], and the river Axius; along this frontier the Dardani, the Treres[2446], and the Pieres, border on Macedonia. Leaving this river, there are the nations of Pæonia[2447], the Paroræi[2448], the Eordenses[2449], the Almopii[2450], the Pelagones, and the Mygdones[2451].
Next come the mountains of Rhodope, Scopius, and Orbelus; and, lying along the extent of country in front of these mountains, the Arethusii[2452], the Antiochienses[2453], the Idomenenses[2454], the Doberi[2455], the Æstræenses, the Allantenses, the Audaristenses, the Morylli, the Garesci[2456], the Lyncestæ[2457], the Othryonei[2458], and the Amantini[2459] and Orestæ[2460], both of them free peoples; the colonies of Bullis[2461] and Dium[2462], the Xylopolitæ, the Scotussæi, a free people, Heraclea Sintica[2463], the Tymphæi[2464], and the Toronæi.
Upon the coast of the Macedonian Gulf there are the town of Chalastra[2465], and, more inland, Piloros; also Lete, and at the extreme bend of the Gulf, Thessalonica[2466], a free city; (from this place to Dyrrhachium it is 245 miles[2467],) and then Thermæ[2468]. Upon the Gulf[2469] of Thermæ are the towns of Dicæa, Pydna[2470], Derra, Scione[2471], the Promontory of Canastræum[2472], and the towns of Pallene[2473] and Phlegra. In this region also are the mountains Hypsizorus, Epitus, Halcyone, and Leoomne; the towns of Nyssos[2474], Phryxelon, Mendæ, and what was formerly Potidæa[2475] on the isthmus of Pallene, but now the Colony of Cassandria; Anthemus[2476], Olophyxus[2477], and the Gulf of Mecyberna[2478]; the towns of Miscella, Ampelos[2479], Torone[2480], Singos[2481], and the canal, a mile and a half in length, by means of which Xerxes, king of the Persians, cut off Mount Athos[2482] from the main land. This mountain projects from the level plain of the adjacent country into the sea, a distance of seventy-five[2483] miles; its circumference at its base being 150 miles in extent. There was formerly upon its summit the town of Acroathon[2484]: the present towns are Uranopolis[2485], Palæorium, Thyssus, Cleonæ[2486], and Apollonia, the inhabitants of which have the surname of Macrobii[2487]. The town also of Cassera, and then the other side of the Isthmus, after which come Acanthus[2488], Stagira[2489], Sithone[2490], Heraclea[2491], and the country of Mygdonia that lies below, in which are situate, at some distance from the sea, Apollonia[2492] and Arethusa. Again, upon the coast we have Posidium[2493], and the bay with the town of Cermorus, Amphipolis[2494], a free town, and the nation of the Bisaltæ. We then come to the river Strymon[2495] which takes its rise in Mount Hæmus[2496] and forms the boundary of Macedonia: it is worthy of remark that it first discharges itself into seven lakes before it proceeds onward in its course.
Such is Macedonia, which was once the mistress of the world, which once extended[2497] her career over Asia, Armenia, Iberia, Albania, Cappadocia, Syria, Egypt, Taurus, and Caucasus, which reduced the whole of the East under her power, and triumphed over the Bactri, the Medes, and the Persians. She too it was who proved the conqueror of India, thus treading in the footsteps of Father Liber[2498] and of Hercules; and this is that same Macedonia, of which our own general Paulus Æmilius sold to pillage seventy-two[2499] cities in one day. So great the difference in her lot resulting from the actions of two[2500] individuals!
CHAP. 18. (11.)—THRACE; THE ÆGEAN SEA.
Thrace now follows, divided into fifty strategies[2501], and to be reckoned among the most powerful nations of Europe. Among its peoples whom we ought not to omit to name are the Denseletæ and the Medi, dwelling upon the right bank of the Strymon, and joining up to the Bisaltæ above[2502] mentioned; on the left there are the Digerri and a number of tribes of the Bessi[2503], with various names, as far as the river Mestus[2504], which winds around the foot of Mount Pangæum[2505], passing among the Elethi, the Diobessi[2506], the Carbilesi; and then the Brysæ, the Sapæi, and the Odomanti. The territory of the Odrysæ[2507] gives birth to the Hebrus[2508], its banks being inhabited by the Cabyleti, the Pyrogeri, the Drugeri, the Cænici, the Hypsalti, the Beni, the Corpili, the Bottiæi, and the Edoni[2509]. In the same district are also the Selletæ, the Priantæ, the Doloncæ, the Thyni, and the Greater Cœletæ, below Mount Hæmus, the Lesser at the foot of Rhodope. Between these tribes runs the river Hebrus. We then come to a town at the foot of Rhodope, first called Poneropolis[2510], afterwards Philippopolis[2511] from the name of its founder, and now, from the peculiarity of its situation, Trimontium[2512]. To reach the summit of Hæmus you have to travel six[2513] miles. The sides of it that look in the opposite direction and slope towards the Ister are inhabited by the Mœsi[2514], the Getæ, the Aorsi, the Gaudæ, and the Clariæ; below them, are the Arræi Sarmatæ[2515], also called Arreatæ, the Scythians, and, about the shores of the Euxine, the Moriseni and the Sithonii, the forefathers of the poet Orpheus[2516], dwell.
Thus is Thrace bounded by the Ister on the north, by the Euxine, and the Propontis[2517] on the east, and by the Ægean Sea on the south; on the coast of which, after leaving the Strymon, we come in turn to Apollonia[2518], Œsyma[2519], Neapolis[2520] and Datos. In the interior is the colony of Philippi[2521], distant from Dyrrhachium 325 miles; also Scotussa[2522], the city of Topiris, the mouth of the river Mestus[2523], Mount Pangæus, Heraclea[2524], Olynthos[2525], Abdera[2526], a free city, the people of the Bistones[2527] and their Lake. Here was formerly the city of Tirida, which struck such terror with its stables of the horses[2528] of Diomedes. At the present day we find here Dicæa[2529], Ismaron[2530], the place where Parthenion stood, Phalesina, and Maronea[2531], formerly called Orthagorea. We then come to Mount Serrium[2532] and Zone[2533], and then the place called Doriscus[2534], capable of containing ten thousand men, for it was in bodies of ten thousand that Xerxes here numbered his army. We then come to the mouth of the Hebrus[2535], the Port of Stentor, and the free town of Ænos[2536], with the tomb there of Polydorus[2537], the region formerly of the Cicones.
From Doriscus there is a winding coast as far as Macron Tichos[2538], or the “Long Wall,” a distance of 122 miles; round Doriscus flows the river Melas, from which the Gulf of Melas[2539] receives its name. The towns are, Cypsela[2540], Bisanthe[2541], and Macron Tichos, already mentioned, so called because a wall extends from that spot between the two seas,—that is to say, from the Propontis to the Gulf of Melas, thus excluding the Chersonesus[2542], which projects beyond it.
The other side of Thrace now begins, on the coast[2543] of the Euxine, where the river Ister discharges itself; and it is in this quarter perhaps that Thrace possesses the finest cities, Histropolis[2544], namely, founded by the Milesians, Tomi[2545], and Callatis[2546], formerly called Acervetis. It also had the cities of Heraclea and Bizone, which latter was swallowed up by an earthquake; it now has Dionysopolis[2547], formerly called Cruni, which is washed by the river Zyras. All this country was formerly possessed by the Scythians, surnamed Aroteres; their towns were, Aphrodisias, Libistos, Zygere, Rocobe, Eumenia, Parthenopolis, and Gerania[2548], where a nation of Pigmies is said to have dwelt; the barbarians used to call them Cattuzi, and entertain a belief that they were put to flight by cranes. Upon the coast, proceeding from Dionysopolis, is Odessus[2549], a city of the Milesians, the river Panysus[2550], and the town of Tetranaulochus. Mount Hæmus, which, with its vast chain, overhangs the Euxine, had in former times upon its summit the town of Aristæum[2551]. At the present day there are upon the coast Mesembria[2552], and Anchialum[2553], where Messa formerly stood. The region of Astice formerly had a town called Anthium; at the present day Apollonia[2554] occupies its site. The rivers here are the Panisos, the Riras, the Tearus, and the Orosines; there are also the towns of Thynias[2555], Halmydessos[2556], Develton[2557], with its lake, now known as Deultum, a colony of veterans, and Phinopolis, near which last is the Bosporus[2558]. From the mouth of the Ister to the entrance of the Euxine, some writers have made to be a distance of 555 miles; Agrippa, however, increases the length by sixty miles. The distance thence to Macron Tichos, or the Long Wall, previously mentioned, is 150 miles; and, from it to the extremity of the Chersonesus, 126.
On leaving the Bosporus we come to the Gulf of Casthenes[2559], and two harbours, the one called the Old Men’s Haven, and the other the Women’s Haven. Next comes the promontory of Chrysoceras[2560], upon which is the town of Byzantium[2561], a free state, formerly called Lygos, distant from Dyrrhachium 711 miles,—so great being the space of land that intervenes between the Adriatic Sea and the Propontis. We next come to the rivers Bathynias and Pydaras[2562], or Athyras, and the towns of Selymbria[2563] and Perinthus[2564], which join the mainland by a neck only 200 feet in width. In the interior are Bizya[2565], a citadel of the kings of Thrace, and hated by the swallows, in consequence of the sacrilegious crime of Tereus[2566]; the district called Cænica[2567], and the colony of Flaviopolis, where formerly stood a town called Cæla. Then, at a distance of fifty miles from Bizya, we come to the colony of Apros, distant from Philippi 180 miles. Upon the coast is the river Erginus[2568]; here formerly stood the town of Ganos[2569]; and Lysimachia[2570] in the Chersonesus is being now gradually deserted.
At this spot there is another isthmus[2571], similar in name to the other[2572], and of about equal width; and, in a manner by no means dissimilar, two cities formerly stood on the shore, one on either side, Pactye on the side of the Propontis, and Cardia[2573] on that of the Gulf of Melas, the latter deriving its name from the shape[2574] which the land assumes. These, however, were afterwards united with Lysimachia[2575], which stands at a distance of five miles from Macron Tichos. The Chersonesus formerly had, on the side of the Propontis, the towns of Tiristasis, Crithotes, and Cissa[2576], on the banks of the river Ægos[2577]; it now has, at a distance of twenty-two[2578] miles from the colony of Apros, Resistos, which stands opposite to the colony of Parium. The Hellespont also, which separates, as we have already[2579] stated, Europe from Asia, by a channel seven stadia in width, has four cities facing each other, Callipolis[2580] and Sestos[2581] in Europe, and Lampsacus[2582] and Abydos[2583] in Asia. On the Chersonesus, there is the promontory of Mastusia[2584], lying opposite to Sigeum[2585]; upon one side of it stands the Cynossema[2586] (for so the tomb of Hecuba is called), the naval station[2587] of the Achæans, and a tower; and near it the shrine[2588] of Protesilaüs. On the extreme front of the Chersonesus, which is called Æolium, there is the city of Elæus. Advancing thence towards the Gulf of Melas, we have the port of Cœlos[2589], Panormus, and then Cardia, previously mentioned.
In this manner is the third great Gulf of Europe bounded. The mountains of Thrace, besides those already mentioned, are Edonus, Gigemoros, Meritus, and Melamphyllos; the rivers are the Bargus and the Syrmus, which fall into the Hebrus. The length of Macedonia, Thrace, and the Hellespont has been already[2590] mentioned; some writers, however, make it 720 miles, the breadth being 384.
What may be called a rock rather than an island, lying between Tenos and Chios, has given its name to the Ægean Sea; it has the name of Æx[2591] from its strong resemblance to a goat, which is so called in Greek, and shoots precipitately from out of the middle of the sea. Those who are sailing towards the isle of Andros from Achaia, see this rock on the left, boding no good, and warning them of its dangers. Part of the Ægean Sea bears the name of Myrtoan[2592], being so called from the small island [of Myrtos] which is seen as you sail towards Macedonia from Geræstus, not far from Carystus[2593] in Eubœa. The Romans include all these seas under two names,—the Macedonian, in those parts where it touches the coasts of Macedonia or Thrace, and the Grecian where it washes the shores of Greece. The Greeks, however, divide the Ionian Sea into the Sicilian and the Cretan Seas, after the name of those islands; and they give the name of Icarian to that part which lies between Samos and Myconos. The gulfs which we have already mentioned, have given to these seas the rest of their names. Such, then, are the seas and the various nations which are comprehended in the third great Gulf of Europe.
CHAP. 19. (12.)—THE ISLANDS WHICH LIE BEFORE THE LANDS ALREADY MENTIONED.
Lying opposite to Thesprotia, at a distance of twelve miles from Buthrotus, and of fifty from Acroceraunia, is the island of Corcyra[2594], with a city of the same name, the citizens of which are free; also a town called Cassiope[2595], and a temple dedicated to Jupiter Cassius. This island is ninety-seven miles in length, and in Homer has the names of Scheria and Phæacia; while Callimachus calls it Drepane. There are some other islands around it, such as Thoronos[2596], lying in the direction of Italy, and the two islands of Paxos[2597] in that of Leucadia, both of them five miles distant from Corcyra. Not far[2598] from these, and in front of Corcyra, are Ericusa, Marathe, Elaphusa, Malthace, Trachie, Pythionia, Ptychia, Tarachie, and, off Phalacrum[2599], a promontory of Corcyra, the rock into which (according to the story, which arises no doubt from the similarity of appearance) the ship of Ulysses was changed.
Before Leucimna[2600] we find the islands of Sybota, and between Leucadia and Achaia a great number of islands, among which are those called Teleboïdes[2601], as also Taphiæ; by the natives, those which lie before Leucadia are called by the names of Taphias, Oxiæ, and Prinoessa[2602]; while those that are in front of Ætolia are the Echinades[2603], consisting of Ægialia, Cotonis, Thyatira, Geoaris, Dionysia, Cyrnus, Chalcis, Pinara, and Mystus.
In front of these, and lying out at sea, are Cephallenia[2604] and Zacynthus[2605], both of them free, Ithaca[2606], Dulichium[2607], Same[2608], and Crocyle[2609]. Cephallenia, formerly known as Melæna[2610], lies at a distance of eleven miles from Paxos, and is ninety-three miles in circumference: its city of Same has been levelled to the ground by the Romans; but it still possesses three others[2611]. Between this island and Achaia lies the island of Zacynthus, remarkable for its city of the same name, and for its singular fertility. It formerly had the name of Hyrie, and lies to the south of Cephallenia, at a distance of twenty-five miles; in it there is the famous mountain of Elatus[2612]. This island is thirty-six miles in circumference. At a distance of fifteen miles from Zacynthus is Ithaca, in which is Mount Neritus[2613]; its circumference in all is twenty-five miles. Twelve miles distant from this island is Araxus[2614], a promontory of the Peloponnesus. Before Ithaca, lying out in the main sea, are Asteris[2615] and Prote; and before Zacynthus, at a distance of thirty-five miles in the direction of the south-east wind, are the two Strophades[2616], by some known as the Plotæ. Before Cephallenia lies Letoia[2617], before Pylos the three Sphagiæ[2618], and before Messene the Œnussæ[2619], as many in number.
In the Asinæan Gulf there are the three Thyrides[2620], and in that of Laconia Theganusa[2621], Cothon, and Cythera[2622], with the town of that name, the former name of which island was Porphyris. It is situate five miles from the promontory of Malea[2623], thus forming a strait very dangerous to navigation. In the Gulf of Argolis are Pityusa[2624], Irine, and Ephyre; opposite the territory of Hermione[2625], Tiparenus, Aperopia[2626], Colonis[2627], and Aristera; and, opposite that of Trœzen, Calauria[2628], at a distance of half a mile, Plateis[2629], Belbina, Lasia, and Baucidias. Opposite Epidaurus is Cecryphalos[2630], and Pityonesos[2631], six miles distant from the mainland; and, at a distance of fifteen miles from this last, Ægina[2632], a free island, the length of which, as you sail past it, is eighteen miles. This island is twenty miles distant from Piræus, the port of Athens: it used formerly to be called Œnone. Opposite the promontory of Spiræum[2633], lie Eleusa[2634], Adendros[2635], the two islands called Craugiæ, the two Cæciæ, Selachusa, Cenchreis, and Aspis; as also, in the Gulf of Megara, the four Methurides. Ægila[2636] lies at a distance of fifteen miles from Cythera, and of twenty-five from Phalasarna, a city of Crete.
CHAP. 20.—CRETE.
Crete itself lies from east to west, the one side facing the south, the other the north, and is known to fame by the renown of its hundred cities. Dosiades says, that it took its name from the nymph Crete, the daughter of Hesperides[2637]; Anaximander, from a king of the Curetes, Philistides of Mallus * * * * *; while Crates says that it was at first called Aëria, and after that Curetis; and some have been of opinion that it had the name of Macaron[2638] from the serenity of its climate. In breadth it nowhere exceeds fifty miles, being widest about the middle. In length, however, it is full 270 miles, and 589 in circumference, forming a bend towards the Cretan Sea, which takes its name from it. At its eastern extremity is the Promontory of Sammonium[2639], facing Rhodes, while towards the west it throws out that of Criumetopon[2640], in the direction of Cyrene.
The more remarkable cities of Crete are, Phalasarna, Etæa[2641], Cisamon[2642], Pergamum, Cydonia[2643], Minoium[2644], Apteron[2645], Pantomatrium, Amphimalla[2646], Rhithymna, Panormus, Cytæum, Apollonia, Matium[2647], Heraclea, Miletos, Ampelos, Hierapytna[2648], Lebena[2649], and Hierapolis; and, in the interior, Gortyna[2650], Phæstum, Cnossus[2651], Polyrrenium, Myrina, Lycastus, Rhamnus, Lyctus, Dium[2652], Asus, Pyloros, Rhytion, Elatos, Pharæ, Holopyxos, Lasos, Eleuthernæ[2653], Therapnæ, Marathusa, and Tylisos; besides some sixty others, of which the memory only exists. The mountains are those of Cadistus[2654], Ida, Dictynnæus, and Corycus[2655]. This island is distant, at its promontory of Criumetopon, according to Agrippa, from Phycus[2656], the promontory of Cyrene, 125 miles; and at Cadistus, from Malea in the Peloponnesus, eighty. From the island of Carpathos[2657], at its promontory of Sammonium it lies in a westerly direction, at a distance of sixty miles; this last-named island is situate between it and Rhodes.
The other islands in its vicinity, and lying in front of the Peloponnesus, are the two isles known as Corycæ, and the two called Mylæ[2658]. On the north side, having Crete on the right, and opposite to Cydonia, is Leuce[2659], and the two islands known as Budroæ[2660]. Opposite to Matium lies Dia[2661]; opposite to the promontory of Itanum[2662], Onisia and Leuce; and over against Hierapytna, Chrysa and Gaudos[2663]. In the same neighbourhood, also, are Ophiussa, Butoa, and Aradus; and, after doubling Criumetopon, we come to the three islands known as Musagorus. Before the promontory of Sammonium lie the islands of Phocœ, the Platiæ, the Sirnides, Naulochos, Armedon, and Zephyre.
Belonging to Hellas, but still in the Ægean Sea, we have the Lichades[2664], consisting of Scarphia, Coresa, Phocaria, and many others which face Attica, but have no towns upon them, and are consequently of little note. Opposite Eleusis, however, is the far-famed Salamis[2665]; before it, Psyttalia[2666]; and, at a distance of five miles from Sunium, the island of Helene[2667]. At the same distance from this last is Ceos[2668], which some of our countrymen have called Cea, and the Greeks Hydrussa, an island which has been torn away from Eubœa. It was formerly 500 stadia in length; but more recently four-fifths of it, in the direction of Bœotia, have been swallowed up by the sea. The only towns it now has left are Iulis and Carthæa[2669]; Coresus[2670] and Pœëessa[2671] have perished. Varro informs us, that from this place there used to come a cloth of very fine texture, used for women’s dresses.
CHAP. 21.—EUBŒA.
Eubœa[2672] itself has also been rent away from Bœotia; the channel of the Euripus, which flows between them, being so narrow as to admit of the opposite shores being united by a bridge[2673]. At the south, this island is remarkable for its two promontories, that of Geræstus[2674], which looks towards Attica, and that of Caphareus[2675], which faces the Hellespont; on the north it has that of Cenæum[2676]. In no part does this island extend to a greater breadth than forty miles, while it never contracts to less than two. In length it runs along the whole coast of Bœotia, extending from Attica as far as Thessaly, a distance of 150 miles[2677]. In circumference it measures 365, and is distant from the Hellespont, on the side of Caphareus, 225 miles. The cities for which it was formerly famous were, Pyrrha, Porthmos, Nesos, Cerinthos[2678], Oreum, Dium, Ædepsos[2679], Ocha, and Œchalia; at present it is ennobled by those of Chalcis[2680] (opposite which, on the mainland, is Aulis), Geræstus[2681], Eretria[2682], Carystus[2683], Oritanum, and Artemisium[2684]. Here are also the Fountain of Arethusa[2685], the river Lelantus, and the warm springs known as Ellopiæ; it is still better known, however, for the marble of Carystus. This island used formerly to be called Chalcodontis and Macris[2686], as we learn from Dionysius and Ephorus; according to Aristides, Macra; also, as Callidemus says, Chalcis, because copper was first discovered here. Menæchmus says that it was called Abantias[2687], and the poets generally give it the name of Asopis.
CHAP. 22.—THE CYCLADES.
Beyond Eubœa, and out in the Myrtoan[2688] Sea, are numerous other islands; but those more especially famous are, Glauconnesos and the Ægila[2689]. Off the promontory, too, of Geræstus are the Cyclades, lying in a circle around Delos, from which circumstance[2690] they derive their name. The first of them is the one called Andros[2691] with a city of the same name, distant from Geræstus ten miles, and from Ceos thirty-nine. Myrsilus tells us that this island was at first called Cauros, and after that Antandros; Callimachus calls it Lasia, and others again Nonagria, Hydrussa, and Epagris. It is ninety-three miles in circumference. At a distance of one mile from Andros and of fifteen from Delos, is Tenos[2692], with a city of the same name; this island is fifteen miles in length. Aristotle says that it was formerly called Hydrussa, from the abundance of water found here, while some writers call it Ophiussa[2693]. The other islands are, Myconos[2694], with the mountain of Dimastus[2695], distant from Delos fifteen[2696] miles; Siphnus[2697], formerly called Meropia and Acis, twenty-eight miles in circumference; Seriphus[2698], twelve miles in circuit; Prepesinthus[2699]; Cythnos[2700]; and then, by far the most famous among the Cyclades, and lying in the very middle of them, Delos[2701] itself, so famous for its temple of Apollo, and its extensive commerce. This island long floated on the waves, and, as tradition says, was the only one that had never experienced an earthquake, down to the time of M. Varro[2702]; Mucianus however has informed us, that it has been twice so visited. Aristotle states that this island received its name from the fact of its having so suddenly made its appearance[2703] on emerging from the sea; Aglaosthenes, however, gives it the name of Cynthia, and others of Ortygia[2704], Asteria, Lagia, Chlamydia, Cynthus, and, from the circumstance of fire having been first discovered here, Pyrpile. Its circumference is five miles only; Mount Cynthus[2705] here raises his head.
Next to this island is Rhene[2706], which Anticlides calls by the name of Celadussa, and Callidemus, Artemite; Scyros[2707], which the old writers have stated to be twenty miles in circumference, but Mucianus 160; Oliaros[2708]; and Paros[2709], with a city of the same name, distant from Delos thirty-eight miles, and famous for its marble[2710]; it was first called Platea, and after that, Minois. At a distance of seven miles from this last island is Naxos[2711], with a town of the same name; it is eighteen miles distant from Delos. This island was formerly called Strongyle[2712], then Dia, and then Dionysias[2713], in consequence of the fruitfulness of its vineyards; others again have called it the Lesser Sicily, or Callipolis[2714]. It is seventy-five[2715] miles in circumference—half as large again as Paros.
CHAP. 23.—THE SPORADES.
The islands thus far are considered as belonging to the Cyclades; the rest that follow are the Sporades[2716]. These are, Helene[2717], Phacussa, Nicasia, Schinussa, Pholegandros, and, at a distance of thirty-eight miles from Naxos, Icaros[2718], which has given its name to the surrounding sea, and is the same number of miles in length[2719], with two cities, and a third now no longer in existence: this island used formerly to be called Doliche, Macris, and Ichthyoëssa[2720]. It is situate fifty miles to the north-east of Delos, and thirty-five from the island of Samos. Between Eubœa and Andros, there is an arm of the sea ten miles in width, and from Icaros to Geræstus is a distance of 112-1/2 miles.
After we pass these, no regular order can be well observed; the rest must therefore be mentioned indiscriminately. There is the island of Scyros[2721], and that of Ios[2722], eighteen miles distant from Naxos, and deserving of all veneration for the tomb there of Homer; it is twenty-five miles in length, and was formerly known by the name of Phœnice; also Odia, Oletandros, and Gyara[2723], with a city of the same name, the island being twelve miles in circumference, and distant from Andros sixty-two. At a distance of eighty miles from Gyara is Syrnos, then Cynæthus, Telos[2724], noted for its unguents, and by Callimachus called Agathussa, Donusa[2725], Patmos[2726], thirty miles in circumference, the Corassiæ[2727], Lebinthus[2728], Leros[2729], Cinara[2730]; Sicinus[2731], formerly called Œnoë[2732]; Hieracia, also called Onus; Casos[2733], likewise called Astrabe; Cimolus[2734], or Echinussa; and Melos[2735], with a city of that name, which island Aristides calls Memblis, Aristotle Zephyria, Callimachus Mimallis, Heraclides Siphis and Acytos. This last is the most circular[2736] in form of all these islands. After this comes Machia, then Hypere, formerly Patage, or, as others have it, Platage, but now called Amorgos[2737], Polyægos[2738], Phyle, and Thera[2739], known as Calliste when it first sprang from the waves. From this, at a later period, the island of Therasia[2740] was torn away, and between the two afterwards arose Automate, also called Hiera, and Thia, which in our own times came into existence in the vicinity of these islands. Ios is distant from Thera twenty-five miles.
Next to these follow Lea, Ascania[2741], Anaphe[2742], Hippuris, and Astypalæa[2743], a free state. This island is eighty-eight miles in circumference, and 125 miles distant from Cadistus, in Crete. From Astypalæa, Platea is distant sixty miles, and Caminia thirty-eight from this last. We then come to the islands of Azibintha, Lanise, Tragæa, Pharmacussa, Techedia, Chalcia[2744], Calymna[2745], in which is the town of Coös, Calymna, at a distance of twenty-five miles from which is Carpathum[2746], which has given its name to the Carpathian Sea. The distance thence to Rhodes[2747], in the direction of the south-west wind, is fifty miles. From Carpathum to Casus is seven miles, and from Casus to Sammonium, the promontory of Crete, thirty[2748]. In the Euripus of Eubœa, almost at the very mouth of it, are the four islands called Petaliæ[2749]; and, at its outlet, Atalante[2750]. The Cyclades and the Sporades are bounded on the east by the Asiatic shores of the Icarian Sea, on the west by the Attic shores of the Myrtoan Sea, on the north by the Ægean, and on the south by the Cretan and Carpathian seas, extending 700 miles in length, and 200 in breadth.
The Gulf of Pagasa[2751] has in front of it Euthia[2752], Cicynethus[2753], Scyros, previously mentioned[2754], and the very furthermost of the Cyclades and Sporades, Gerontia and Scandila[2755]; the Gulf of Thermæ[2756], Iræsia, Solimnia, Eudemia, and Nea, which last is sacred to Minerva. Athos has before it four islands; Peparethus[2757], formerly called Evœnus, with a city of that name, at a distance from Athos of nine miles; Sciathus[2758], at a distance of fifteen, and Imbros[2759], with a city of the same name, at a distance of eighty-eight miles. This last island is distant from Mastusia, in the Chersonesus, twenty-five miles; it is sixty-two[2760] miles in circumference, and is washed by the river Ilisus. At a distance of twenty-two miles from it is Lemnos[2761], being distant from Mount Athos eighty-seven; it is 112 miles in circumference, and has the cities of Hephæstia and Myrina[2762]; into the market-place of which last city Athos throws its shadow at the summer solstice. The island of Thasos[2763], constituting a free state, is six miles distant from Lemnos; it formerly had the name of Aëria, or Æthria. Abdera[2764], on the mainland, is distant from Thasos twenty-two miles, Athos sixty-two[2765]. The island of Samothrace[2766], a free state, facing the river Hebrus, is the same distance from Thasos, being also thirty-two[2767] miles from Imbros, twenty-two from Lemnos, and thirty-eight[2768] from the coast of Thrace; it is thirty-two miles in circumference, and in it rises Mount Saoce[2769], ten miles in height. This island is the most inaccessible of them all. Callimachus mentions it by its ancient name of Dardania.
Between the Chersonesus and Samothrace, at a distance of about fifteen miles from them both, is the island of Halonnesos[2770], and beyond it Gethone, Lamponia, and Alopeconnesus[2771], not far from Cœlos, a port[2772] of the Chersonesus, besides some others of no importance. The following names may be also mentioned, as those of uninhabited islands in this gulf, of which we have been enabled to discover the names:—Desticos, Sarnos, Cyssiros, Charbrusa, Calathusa, Scylla, Draconon, Arconnesus, Diethusa, Scapos, Capheris, Mesate, Æantion, Pateronnesos, Pateria, Calate, Neriphus, and Polendos[2773].
CHAP. 24.—THE HELLESPONT.—THE LAKE MÆOTIS.
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The Natural History of Pliny, Volume 1 (of 6)Chapter XIV: Book IV (1)
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