Chapter IV: Part 4

_Alcalde-mayor in Çubu_. The governors of these islands have always appointed an alcalde-mayor, at a salary of three hundred pesos taken from the fines forfeited to the royal treasury; and the royal treasury not being sufficient, the alcalde-mayor has not, as yet, appointed any deputy. There are six regidors, who, up to the present time, have been elected annually. The past governors appointed also an alguazil-mayor, whom they can remove and replace at their pleasure. There is no remuneration for this last office; and it is therefore given to an encomendero, who is generally one of the leading citizens. There are also two alcaldes-in-ordinary, and one notary for the cabildo and the public. If all these officials were not also encomenderos, they would be unable to support themselves; for the town possesses no commerce which comes within their reach. The town has the best port of these islands, and it was for this reason that Miguel Lopez de Legazpi founded a settlement there. It was he who founded the above-mentioned town, in the year of sixty-four. Perhaps the traffic with Maluco may prove of advantage to the town, for there is no other place in its vicinity with which any commerce could be carried on. Its neighborhood is poor, and all the vast district round about lacks gold mines or gold-placers, except in the island of Mindanao--and that but little--as will be described later. The island of Çubu produces a small quantity of rice, borona, and millet and little or no cotton; for the cloth which the natives use for their garments is made from a kind of banana. From this they make a sort of cloth resembling colored calico, which the natives call _medriñaque_. In these islands great value is set upon the land which can produce rice and cotton, because cotton and cloth find a good market in Nueva España. The condition of the people will be described when I shall speak of all the Pintados in general, for they all are very similar. All are provided with fowls, swine, a few goats, beans, and a kind of root resembling the potatoes of Sancto Domingo, called by the natives _camotes_. After rice, fish is the main article of maintenance in this and other islands, for it abounds in all of them, and is of excellent quality in this island of Çubu. Although deer have been found in all the islands discovered hereabout, there are none here; and if any should be brought hither from elsewhere they would immediately die.

_Island of Matan_. To the south of the settlement of Çubu, about two arquebus-shots from it, lies the island of Matan where Magallanes was killed; it forms the port of Çubu. The island is about four leagues in circumference, and half a league wide; it has a population of about three hundred Indians, scattered through four or five small villages, all of which are under the jurisdiction of the town of Çubu.

_Island of Vohol_. On the other side of the island of Matan, and farther south, about eight leagues from the settlement of Çubu, lies the island of Vohol, which is an encomienda with two thousand Indians. The natives of this island are closely related to the people of Cebu and are almost one and the same people. Those inhabiting the coast regions are mainly fishermen. They are excellent oarsmen; and, before the arrival of the Spaniards, they were accustomed to cruise about in their vessels on marauding expeditions. They are also traders. There was once a large town in this island [Bohol], which, shortly before the Spaniards came hither, was plundered by the people of Maluco, and the majority of its inhabitants were dispersed throughout the other islands, where they now dwell. The settlements inland among the mountains are small and poor, and are not yet wholly under subjection. In this island, as well as in the many nearby uninhabited islets--these latter abounding also in fish--there is great abundance of game, both deer and boars. The island is about forty leagues in circumference, and eight or ten leagues wide.

_Island of Negros_. West of the island of Çubu lies another island, called by the Spaniards Negros, because its mountain districts are inhabited by some blacks. The Indians have given it various names, such as Nayon, Mamaylan, and others, all taken from the names of villages in different parts of the island. It contains some six or seven thousand Indians; but the number of blacks has not been ascertained, because of their hostility. The side of the island facing Çubu is sparsely populated; for it has only one settlement worthy the name, which is situated on the river Tanay, and half of the Indians on that river are natives of Bohol. The southern side, facing the island of Panay and the town of Arevalo, is thickly settled; for it contains the rivers Ylo, Ynabagan, Bago, Carobcop, and Tecgaguan--all fertile districts, rich in foods, such as rice, swine, and fowls; and abounding in medriñaque, although there is no cotton. The coast facing Çubu lies about two and one-half leagues from that island, and on the side facing the island of Panay and the town of Arevalo there is a like distance; so that two straits are made with these islands of Zubu and Panay respectively. The side toward Çubu has three encomenderos; and that toward Panay and the town of Arevalo has eight. All other encomenderos hold encomiendas in other parts of the island. This island is about ninety leagues in circumference, and about twelve or thirteen leagues wide. None of its villages belong to his Majesty.

_Island of Fuegos_. Near the straits formed by Negros Island and that of Çubu, there is an island which we call the island of Fuegos. It has a circuit of ten leagues, and a population of nearly two hundred Indians, and is a part of an encomienda. This island produces a great quantity of wax.

_Island of Camotes_. East of the island of Çubu are two small islets, each about five leagues in circumference. They are called the islets of Camotes. The two are inhabited by about three hundred Indians, and are under the jurisdiction of the city of Çubu. The people are poor, although they possess some wax and a great quantity of fish. The villages are small, consisting of only seven or eight houses each. These islets are about three leagues from the island of Çubu, and seven from the city of that name.

_Island of Baybay_. About three leagues farther east lies the island of Baybay, or Leyte, as it is also called. It is a large and well-provisioned island, although the people dress in medriñaque. Leyte is thickly settled; it may have a population of fourteen or fifteen thousand Indians, ten thousand of whom pay tribute because that has been a people hard to conquer. There are twelve encomenderos; but his Majesty owns none of the Indians. This island is about eighty leagues in circumference, and fifteen or sixteen wide. Its principal settlements and rivers are Vaybay, Yodmuc, Leyte, Cavigava, Barugo, Maraguincay, Palos, Abuyo, Dulaque, Longos, Bito, Cabalian, Calamocan and Tugud. This island possesses neither mines nor gold-placers; the only cloth it produces is medriñaque, which, as I have said before, resembles calico, and is made from a kind of wild banana.

_Island of Panaon_. Between this island and that of Mindanao, which lies north and south, is the island of Panaon. It is about eight leagues in circumference, and three leagues wide. The population is poor, and numbers only about one hundred men, who belong to one encomendero.

_Island of Siargao_. Twelve leagues from the island of Panaon, and next to the island of Mindanao, is the island of Siargao, which is about fifteen leagues in circumference and six leagues wide. It may have about four hundred inhabitants, and its villages are built around rough and dangerous estuaries. There is only one encomendero. The people are poor because of their indolence; for although there are numerous small islets near this island, which contain many gold-placers, they do not work them. They give as a reason that, if the corsairs should discover that they were working these mines, they would come hither to take them captive; but even now, when no one can molest them, they do not work the mines, and hence we may infer that their poverty is mainly due to sloth.

_Island of Maçagua_. West of the island of Baybay is a small island called Maçagua, about which father Fray Andres de Urbaneta related so many wonders. It is four leagues in circumference and one league wide; it has about sixty inhabitants, as well as an encomendero. The people are poor and wretched, possessing nothing but salt and fish.

_Island of Maripipe_. At the other side, northeast from the island of Baybay, lies the island called Maripipe. It is a very mountainous island, and by reason of its great roughness it is barren. It is about seven leagues in circumference and two and one-half leagues wide. It has a population of about one hundred Indians.

_Island of Limancaguayan_. Nearer the strait and cape of Espiritu Santo, and about three leagues from Maripipe, is another island, called Limancaguayan. Like Maripipe it has a circumference of about seven leagues, and a population of one hundred. This island produces rice and medriñaque. These two islands belong to one encomendero, together with the island of Fuegos, which we mentioned above.

_Island of Masbate_. Farther to the north-northeast of this island of Leyte lies the island of Masbate, which is about thirty leagues in circumference, and six leagues wide. It has about five hundred Indians, who belong to one encomendero. It has also gold mines from which much gold was dug, for the natives of Camarines went thither to work them; but they have left the place on account of the Spaniards, and therefore the mines are not worked. The island of Leyte is considered the centre of all the islands mentioned above, because they all lie in its neighborhood.

_Island of Bantayan_. About two leagues north of the island of Çubu lies the island of Bantayan. It is about eight leagues in circumference and two leagues wide, and has a population of about one thousand Indians; this and the above-mentioned island of Vohol are under the charge of one encomendero. Its inhabitants are well-disposed. They have large fisheries, for there are many shoals near the island. There is also a pearl-fishery, although a very small one. The land produces millet and borona, but no rice, for all the island has poor soil notwithstanding that it is level. Some of the natives of this island cultivate land on the island of Çubu, which, as I have said, is two leagues away. The island abounds in excellent palm-trees--a growth common to all the Pintados islands, for all of them abound in palms.

_Island of Capul_. Capul is the name of the island forming a strait with the island of Luçon. Through this strait pass all the ships which come from España. Capul is about twelve leagues in circumference and four leagues wide. It has about five hundred Indians, and belongs to one encomendero. Its inhabitants are poor and have rice and medriñaque.

_Island of Viri_. Still nearer the cape of Espiritu Santo, and in the strait itself, lies the island of Viri. It is about five leagues in circumference and two leagues wide. It has a population of about one hundred. This island and that of Maçagua are under one encomendero.

_Island of Ybabao_. Southeast of the island of Baybay, lies the island of Ybabao, or as it is also called, the island of Candaya [also Tandaya]. It is about one hundred and ten leagues in circumference. No one has yet gone through the land, and therefore its width is not known. They say that its population is as large as that of the island of Baybay, and that it is a fertile and well-provisioned island. The people seen by the Spaniards will number about five thousand Indians, who are scattered through the following villages:

The village of Daguisan.
The river of Ylaga.
The river of Yba.
The river of Basey.
The villages of Hubun.
The villages of Balingigua.
The villages of Guiguan.
The river of Sicavalo.
The river of Bolongan.
The river of Sibato.
The village of Tinagun.
The River of Calviga.
The estuaries of Ulaya.
The river of Paguntan.
The river of Napundan.
The river of Bolo.
The river of Pono.
The river of Gamay.
The villages of Panpan.
The river of Catubi.
The river of Volonto.
The river of Yuatan.
The river of Pagaguahan.
The village of Baranas.
The village of Arasan.

_Islands of Bantac_. Close to the island of Ybabao, on its eastern side and in the gulf of Nueva España [_i.e._, Pacific Ocean], are to be found two islands, called Bantac. They are thinly populated, and according to what the Indians say, no one has yet set foot on them.

_Verde Island_. On this same side, opposite the town of Guiguan on the gulf side, lies Verde Island. It is about eight leagues in circumference, and four leagues wide. It contains about one hundred and fifty Indians.

_Island of Canaguan_. On the western side, opposite the river of Tinahon, lies the island of Canaguan, which is about four leagues in circumference and one league wide. It contains about one hundred men.

_Island of Caguayan_. The island of Caguayan lies very close to the western side of the island of Ybabao, and is three leaguo in circumference and one league wide. Its population numbers two hundred men.

_Island of Batac_. The island of Batac, which is near this place, contains one hundred men. All these islands which have been mentioned are under the charge of the encomenderos of Çubu, and under the jurisdiction of the city by the same name; so that, counting each island by itself, and that part of the island of Mindanao which has been explored, the jurisdiction of the city of Çubu extends over a circuit of six hundred and sixty-seven leagues.

_Island of Mindanao_. Of all the islands discovered up to the present time, Mindanao is supposed to be the largest, although but few of its inhabitants are friendly--almost none, in fact--and those dwell along the coast. The Spaniards have explored only about one hundred and fifty leagues of this island, namely, from the river of Catel to the principal river, which is called Mindanao. From the city of Çubu one has to sail southeast to reach the nearest point of Mindanao, which is called Dapitan. Dapitan has a port, and lies in the middle of the discovered section of the island. Once this section was thickly populated, but now there are only a few inhabitants left. It produces rice and gold, for there are gold-placers and mines all over the island; but the gold is found in so small a quantity that it can hardly be detected. From Dapitan to the point of Cinnamon there are more than thirty rivers whose banks are settled.

_Observations on the Island of Mindanao._ But those who live along the shore are very few, and are called Lutaos--a name applied to a tribe of people in this land, whose only means of sustenance is derived from fishing; and who take their wives, dogs, cats, and all their possessions in their boats. The fish that they catch they trade with the people of the mountains.

_Tree-dwellings of the mountaineers of Mindanao._ The mountaineers of this island build their houses in certain trees, so large that in each one a house is built which can contain forty or fifty married men and their families; the tree serves as a fortress against the enemy. As far as seen this region abounds in wax. The land is very rough and mountainous, and the inhabitants dress in mediñaque cloth.

Forty leagues from Dapitan, on the side facing Maluco, is Cavite Point, where there is abundance of cinnamon; this is the district which extends toward Maluco.

_Island of Taguima._ Not far from this Cinnamon Point, lies the island of Taguima, which is about fourteen leagues in circumference, and four leagues wide. It has a population of about five hundred Indians, with two encomenderos. In all parts of Mindanao are found a great many civet-cats. The Portuguese ships, on their way from Malaca to Maluco for cloves, pass by this island, and formerly did much harm to the natives, often committing acts of treachery while making that passage. Civet-cats are found in all parts of the island of Mindanao; but the people are poorly supplied with food and clothing.

_Island of Soloc_. Twenty leagues from this Cinnamon Point lies the island of Soloc. Its inhabitants are Moros from Burney. It was discovered at the same time as was the river of Burney. The island is about twenty-four leagues in circumference, and is said to have somewhat more than one thousand inhabitants. It is said to have elephants and a fine pearl-fishery. It belongs to one of the encomenderos of Çubu, and is within the jurisdiction of that city.

_Island of Mindanao, continued_. All the region northeast of Dapitan, as far as the river of Butuan, is under one encomendero, except the villages of Gonpot and Cagayan. These two villages, on account of their production of cinnamon, are under his Majesty, although their population is small, not exceeding two hundred men. The same encomendero has charge also of the district between Dapitan and almost to the Cinnamon Point, so that his encomienda in this island of Mindanao is of nearly sixty leagues' extent; he is also encomendero of the above-mentioned island of Soloc, and holds another encomienda in the island of Çubu. With all this, he is poor [and dying of hunger: _crossed out in original MS_.], and cannot help laying hands on all the discovered land of Mindanao

_Rivers: Paniguian, Ydac, Matanda, Ytanda, Tago, Ono, Beslin--all of which have about three thousand men, for the most part hostile_. Around the river Butuan, which belongs to Guido de la Veçaris, dwell about six hundred Indians who are in this island. Farther on are to be found the rivers Surigao, Parasao and others, all poor regions notwithstanding their gold-placers. The same may be said of the rivers Paniguian, Ydac, Matanda, Ytanda, Tago, Ono, and Beslin--all of which have a population of about three thousand, mostly hostile.

Two attempts have been made to explore the chief river of Mindanao--the most important of the island, and from which the island of Mindanao derives its name--but with little result, for our people have been able to discover only six or seven villages. Of these villages the principal one is where the petty king lives; others are Tanpacan, Boayen, and Valet, with others, which, according to what has been seen, have a population of a little more than three thousand, although it is reported that there are many more than that number.

_Island of Camaniguin_. Opposite Butuan River, in the direction of Çubu, and between Vohol and the island of Mindanao, lies the island of Camaniguin. It is about ten leagues in circumference, and has a population of about one hundred Indians. This island is two leagues from Mindanao. It is a craggy and mountainous island. It produces some wax, and la gente della por la mayor parte anda sienpre muy city of Çubu.

Chapter Second

_Of the island of Panay and of the district under its jurisdiction_

_Island of Panay_. Twelve leagues from the nearest point of Çubu, and two and one-half leagues from Negros Island, lies the island of Panay, the most fertile and well-provisioned of all the islands discovered, except the island of Luçon; for it is exceedingly fertile, and abounds in rice, swine, fowls, wax, and honey; it produces also a great quantity of cotton and medriñaque. Its villages stand very close together, and the people are peaceful and open to conversion. The land is healthful and well-provisioned, so that the Spaniards who are stricken with sickness in other islands go thither to recover their health. The natives are healthy and clean; and although the island of Çubu is also healthful and has a good climate, most of its inhabitants are always afflicted with the itch and buboes. In the island of Panay the natives declare that no one of them had ever been afflicted with buboes until the people from Bohol--who, as we said above, abandoned Bohol on account of the people of Maluco--came to settle in Panay, and gave the disease to some of the natives. For these reasons the governor, Don Gonçalo Ronquillo, founded the town of Arevalo, on the south side of this island; for the island runs almost north and south, and on that side live the majority of the people, and the villages are near this town, and the land here is more fertile. In this town dwell fifteen encomenderos, who have among them about twenty thousand Indians, all pacified and paying tribute. Since the town is situated on the side nearest Negros Island, its nearest neighbor, the above-mentioned governor placed under its jurisdiction the rivers Ylo, Ynabagan, Bago, Carobcop and Tecgaguan--which, as has been said before, constitute the best district of Negros Island. For all these reasons, people flocked thither to build their houses; and the place has become the best-provisioned district in all the islands. This island of Panay provides the city of Manila and other places with a large quantity of rice and meat.

_Alcalde-mayor of Arevalo, with a salary of 300 pesos_. The city of this island has one alcalde-mayor, four regidors, one alguazil-mayor, two alcaldes-in-ordinary, and one notary for the public and for the cabildo. The regidors are elected for life, and the alguazil-mayor remains in office as long as does the alcalde-mayor. Being a new town, there are few lawsuits; and the notary can depend on no other compensation than that which he derives from lawsuits among the Indians (for he accompanies the alcalde-mayor on his official visits), and from the cases which are brought before the law for settlement. This city holds jurisdiction over a circuit of three leagues, but it possesses no territory of its own.

The following are the principal communities in this island:

The village of Oton, next to the town.
The village of Ticbaguan.
The river Jaro.
The river Yvahay.
The river Ajuy.
The river Harahut.
The river Panay.
The river Aclan.
The village of Antique.
The village of Bugason.

and others of less importance. The alcalde-mayor receives a salary of three hundred pesos, paid from the fines forfeited to the royal treasury; and if those do not suffice, he will be empowered by the governor and other royal officials to collect the tribute which his Majesty receives in that island--from somewhat more than two thousand men, who dwell in the vicinity of the rivers Haraut, Ajuy, and Panay--the fifths of the gold which is dug in that region, almost nothing in amount. This town is about fifty leagues from that of Santisimo Nombre de Jesus in the island of Çubu. As this island contains great abundance of timber and provisions, it has almost continuously had a shipyard on it, as is the case now at the location of the town of Arevalo, for galleys and fragatas. Here the ship "Visaya" was launched. This island is about one hundred leagues in circumference.

_Island of Ymaraes_. About two arquebus-shots from the island of Panay lies the island of Ymaraes. It is about twelve leagues in circumference, and has a population of about five hundred Indians, all of whom are in charge of one of the encomenderos of the island of Panay. It abounds in rice, cotton, honey, wax, and much game, as is usual in all the islands. It has much timber, which serves for the shipyards, and for house-building in the neighboring islands. Although of such extent, Ymaraes comes under the jurisdiction of the town of Arevalo.

_Island of Cuyo_. Opposite Antique, which is located in the island of Panay, and about sixteen leagues farther in the same westerly direction, lies the island of Cuyo. This island is also in charge of one of the encomenderos of the island of Panay, and has a population of about eight hundred. It abounds in rice which bears a reddish kernel, because the soil is of that color. A great many goats are being raised, for the region is favorable for that. There are large fisheries, and some pearls are gathered. A large quantity of cotton cloth is woven there, although the cotton is not produced on the island. Formerly many ships from Burney were wont to come to barter for _bruscays_, which are a kind of sea-shell which in Sian is used as money, as cocoa-beans are used in Nueva España. It is under the jurisdiction of Arevalo, although the authority of that town has never been exercised therein. This island is twelve leagues in circumference.

_Islets of Lutaya_. Not far from this island are five [seven] very small islets called Lutaya, Dehet, Bisucay, Cadnuyan, Tacaguayan, Lubit, and Tinotoan. The people are very poor, and are kept in slavery by the chiefs of the island of Cuyo. These islets, all together, contain somewhat more than one hundred men. The chief occupation in all these islets is making salt and mats--the latter from rushes, for they are a wretched people. These they pay as their tribute. This island is six leagues in circumference.

_Island of Osigan_. Northeast of the island of Panay and three leagues from its extreme point, lies the island of Osigan, which we call the island of Tablas. It is about eighteen leagues in circumference, and is quite mountainous. Wax is collected there. It has a population of about two hundred and fifty Indians, living in small villages.

_Island of Çibuyan._ Six leagues from Osigan lies the island of Çibuyan. It is about twelve leagues in circumference, and six leagues wide. It has about three hundred Indians, of whom two hundred are under one of the Panay encomenderos. In this island are to be found very good gold mines, but they are not properly worked, for the Indians are all Pintados, and are very slothful. They belong to the jurisdiction of Arevalo.

_Island of Buracay._ About two arquebus-shots from the north point of the island of Panay, lies the island of Buracay. It is about three leagues in circumference, and one-half league wide. It is inhabited by about one hundred Indians, who cultivate rice there, and in addition derive profit from some goats.

_Island of Anbil._ One half league from this island is another island, called Anbil. It is about three leagues in circumference, and one wide. Its fifty Indians are mostly ship-builders.

_Island of Simara._ About two leagues from the island of Tablas--or, as it is also called, Osigan--lies the island of Simara. It is about four leagues in circumference, and two leagues wide. It has a population of one hundred and fifty. These people are traders, and raise goats, and therefore the island is called Cabras ["Goats"] Island. It is about twelve leagues from the island of Panay.

_Island of Sivaay._ Four leagues west of the north point of Panay, is the island of Sivaay. It is five leagues in circumference, and one and one-half leagues wide, and has a population of seventy Indians.

_Island of Similara._ About three leagues farther, toward the island of Mindoro, is found the island of Similara, with a population of ninety Indians. It is four leagues in circumference, and one league wide. All the people of these islets gather a very scanty harvest; they make salt, and are traders.

_Island of Batbatan._ South of the north point of Panay, and about one and one-half leagues from that island, lies the island of Bacbatan, with a population of eighty Indians. The island is about three leagues in circumference, and one league wide. The inhabitants raise their wheat and produce their wax on the island of Panay. All these islands--Buracay, Anbil, Simara, Sivaay, Similara, and Bacbatan--are under one of the encomenderos of Panay.

_Island of Banton._ The island of Banton lies about one and one-half leagues from the island of Simara, or Cabras. It is about eight leagues in circumference and three leagues wide, and has two hundred Indians. The island is very craggy; it abounds in palm-trees, potatoes, yams, and wax. The people are traders.

_Island of Donblon._ The island of Donblon lies between Çibuyan and the island of Tablas. It is seven leagues in circumference and three leagues wide. Donblon is inhabited by nearly two hundred and fifty Indians, and abounds in wax. This island and that of Banton come under one of the Panay encomenderos, and under the jurisdiction of the town of Arevalo. The jurisdiction of this town extends also over the islands of Ymaras, Cuyo, Bacbatan, Sivahi, Similara, Buracay, Anbil, Simara, Osaygan, Banton, Donblon, Cibuyan, and over the larger populated section of Negros Island--namely, from the cape of Sitaravaan to Siparay, an extent of more than twenty leagues. Banton, which is the last island of this jurisdiction, lies about fifty-five or fifty-six leagues from the town of Arevalo.

_Island of Cagaian._ Sailing south-southeast from the town of Arevalo, one comes to the open sea; for there are no other islands in that direction except the ones called Cagayan--two low islets about fifteen leagues from the island of Panay. They are surrounded by many low reefs; and unless their narrow entry is well known, the ships which go there encounter great dangers. These islands have about four hundred inhabitants, all of whom are very skilful ship-builders. It is said that a few years ago the natives peopled these islands in order to fortify themselves by the reefs, for fear of the pirates. Then they undertook to return to the island of Panay in order to dwell there; but very many of their women died there. Seeing this, as they are soothsayers they returned to the islands of Cagayan, whence they set out every year, and scatter themselves over all the islands to build ships. These Indians of Cagayan have made his Majesty's ships in these islands, as well as the galleys, galliots, and fragatas. They also help in repairing and righting ships. Being therefore the most important people in these islands, the adelantado Miguel Lopez de Legazpi allotted the islands of Cagayan to the encomenderos of Negros Island. Afterwards it seemed best to put them under his Majesty's control. Thus the town of Arevalo holds jurisdiction over an extent of about two hundred and fifty leagues.

Chapter Third

_Of the Island of Luçon_

_Island of Luçon_. The island of Luçon is the most important island of the whole group which has been discovered. It is thickly populated and well-provided with rice and gold-mines. These mines have yielded much gold, especially in the province of Ylocos. This island is divided into three provinces, the chief of which is that wherein was founded the city of Manilla, the capital of this kingdom and the seat of the governor. Hither flock more Spaniards than are found in all the other islands. One league and a half from this city is the port of Cavite, where the ships from Nueva España anchor. The ships from Çhina enter also through the river of this city, for they usually come in great numbers to carry on their trading. His Majesty has a fortress here, with its governor, three royal officers, one major, and one royal standard-bearer--all appointed by his Majesty. There are also two alguaçils-mayor--one of court and one of the city, one government secretary, one notary for the cabildo, and four notaries-public. Manila is also the seat of the bishop of all the islands; in this city he resides and has his cathedral church. There are also seven regidors in this city; three of them are proprietary magistrates, and are appointed by his Majesty--namely, Captain Juan de Moron, Don Luis Enrriquez, and Pedro de Herrera. The other four are appointed by the governor--namely, Captain Graviel de Ribera, Captain Joan Maldonado, Captain Bergara, and Captain Rodrigo Alvarez. There is also a convent of Augustinian monks, one of descalced friars, and one house of the Company [of Jesus].

The city is situated midway on the shore of a large bay, about twenty leagues in circumference. The region all about this bay is fertile, and well-provisioned. The inhabitants are Moros, instructed in that faith by those of Burney. The river has a fresh-water lake, about five leagues above this city; it is more than twenty leagues in circumference. The district abounds in rice and cotton. The people possess much gold in the way of trinkets, but there are no mines in this region. This same race of Moros have made settlements as far as the villages of the Batangas; their number will be told later. They have also peopled the island of Mindoro and that of Luban, but they are to be found in no other region of these islands. The inhabitants of the province of Camarines at the eastern end of this island, through whose strait arrive the ships from Nueva España, resemble the Pintados; and even those at the other and southeastern [_sc._ northern] end of this island, toward the Japanese, also closely resemble the Pintados--although they do not tattoo _[pintan]_ themselves as the latter do, and bore their ears differently; for in these two provinces there is but little tattooing. The Pintados tattoo the whole body very gorgeously; but the Moros do not tattoo themselves at all, nor do they bore their ears. Unlike the men of Visaya, the Moros wear their hair short, although their women bore their ears, but in a very ugly manner. The Moros inhabit only this district of the bay of Manilla. with a fifteen-league coast, the most fertile land of this island. The following encomiendas are to be found in the neighborhood of this city:

The encomienda of Vatan, eight hundred men.

The encomienda of Vitis, with about seven thousand men.

The encomienda of Macabebe, with two thousand six hundred men.

The encomienda of Calonpite, with about three thousand men.

The encomienda of Candava, with two thousand men.

Near this encomienda is a village which, on account of its antiquity, is called Little Castilla. It belongs to his Majesty, and has a population of seventy.

The encomienda of Pale, with three hundred men.

The encomienda of Binto, with four hundred men.

The encomienda of Malolos, eight hundred men.

The encomienda of Guiguinto, four hundred men.

The encomienda of Catangalan, with eight hundred men.

The encomienda of Caluya belongs to his Majesty, and has six hundred men.

Formerly all the above-mentioned encomiendas had one alcalde-mayor, but since Don Gonzalo came he has appointed the following officials:

_Corregidor of Batan_. In Batan, a corregidor, with a salary of one hundred and fifty pesos.

_Alcalde-mayor of Lubao_. In Lubao, another, with a salary of three hundred pesos.

_Alcalde-mayor of Calompite_. In Calompite and Macaveve, another, with a salary of three hundred pesos.

_Alcalde-mayor of Candava_. In Candava and two other encomiendas, another, with a salary of two hundred pesos.

_Alcalde-mayor of Bulacan._ In Bulacan and its vicinity, another, with a salary of two hundred pesos.

One language is spoken in all these encomiendas. Quite near the city, and along the coast from Tondo, which is situated on the other side of the river of this city, another language is spoken. This village of Tondo belongs to his Majesty, and possesses a population of one thousand three hundred and fifty Indians.

The village of Quiapo also belongs to his Majesty.

The village of Pandacan, which is held by an encomendero, has one hundred and fifty men.

The village of Santa Maria is under an encomendero, and has a population of [_blank space in MS_.].

The village of Capaques has two hundred men, and belongs to his Majesty.

The encomienda of Pasic has one encomendero, and contains two thousand men.

The encomienda of Tagui is under one encomendero, and has six hundred and sixty men.

The encomienda of Taytay is inhabited by five hundred Indians. All these encomiendas are situated along the river of Manilla, from Tondo to the lake, and are under the jurisdiction of one alcalde-mayor, who appoints a deputy for Tondo. The alcalde-mayor has a salary of two hundred pesos; and his deputy, one hundred.

Around the lake the following settlements are under the jurisdiction of another alcalde-mayor:

The encomienda of Maribago, three hundred men.

The encomienda of Tabuc, with [_blank space in MS._].

The encomienda of Vahi, with two thousand five hundred men.

The encomienda of Pila, with one thousand six hundred men.

The encomienda of Mayay, with four hundred men.

The encomienda of Lumban, with one thousand five hundred men.

The encomienda of Maracta belongs to his Majesty, and has six hundred men.

The encomienda of Balian, with six hundred men.

The encomienda of Sinoloan, with seven hundred men.

The encomienda of Moron, with one thousand one hundred men.

The last two encomiendas have a much larger population; but they are hostile, and live in the mountains. All the above-mentioned encomiendas are found around the lake. Turning toward the coast of Manilla, on the other side of Tondo, we find the following villages:

On the coast near Manila are Laguo, Malahat, Longalo, Palañac, Vacol, Minacaya, and Cavite. All these villages are in the neighborhood of Cavite, and belong to his Majesty, to whom they pay tribute. On entering the bay opposite the other point, which is called Batan, is:

_Alcalde-mayor for the coast_. The encomienda of Maragondon, with four hundred and fifty men. This encomienda of Maragondon, together with all the above-mentioned coast villages which belong to his Majesty, is under the jurisdiction of one alcalde-mayor, who receives a salary of three hundred pesos.

Outside of the bay of Manilla, on the east, are the villages of the lowlands of Tuley, which belong to his Majesty and pay him tribute.

_Corregidor of Balayan_. The encomienda of Balayan has six hundred men, with one encomendero; one corregidor is appointed here, who receives a salary of one hundred and fifty pesos.

_Alcalde-mayor of Vonvon_. The district around the lake of Bombon has a population of about three thousand four hundred. Then come the villages of the Batangas district, with one thousand men and one encomendero. These two encomiendas are under the jurisdiction of another alcalde-mayor. All the land between Tuley and Batangas is inhabited by Moros, who, as we have said above, have abundance of cotton, and possess much gold handed down to them by their ancestors.

Proceeding about three leagues from the settlement of Batangas, which we mentioned above, along the coast toward Camarines, we come to the river of Lobo, on which are about a hundred Indians. Two leagues from Lobo is Maribago, where there are gold mines; here dwell about one hundred Indians. Farther on is the village of Biga, with a population of about one hundred and fifty Indians. Next is Galvan, with about another hundred and fifty Indians. All these villages have one encomendero. Farther along the coast is the river Dayun, with about six hundred Indians; and next, the river Tubi, on which, in the tingues [hills], are about five hundred Indians.

Next are the river Carilaya and other small settlements, with a total population of about five hundred Indians.

Still farther is the river Caguayan, with about two hundred Indians. All this territory has three encomenderos, and is all under the jurisdiction of the alcalde-mayor of Mindoro. Here begins the province of Camarines, although a few settlements of little importance may be found between the two regions.

Chapter Fourth

_Which treats of the Camarines Provinces_

_Provinces of Camarines and Vicor_. Farther along the coast near the Pasacao River begin the provinces of Vicor and Camarines, which, as we have said above, are situated on the east side as you enter the Philipinas islands. Disembarking at the Pasacao River, which is seventy leagues from the city of Manilla by sea, and journeying three leagues by land, one comes to the Vicor River flowing north; its source is in the opposite coasts of the island. [11]

_Alcalde-mayor of Camarines_. Here lies the town of Caçeres, the seat of an alcalde-mayor who receives a salary of three hundred pesos. There are also two alcaldes-in-ordinary, and six regidors, whom the governor appoints for as long a period as he chooses. This town of Caçeres is situated in the middle of the entire province, on the banks of the river Vicor. This river district is allotted to eight encomenderos, seven of whom have in charge about seven hundred Indians each, and the other about two thousand. Along the same river, his Majesty possesses the villages of Minalagua and Nagua, with two thousand Indians. Following this river, one comes to a lake called the lake of Libon, which is but scantily populated. The district round about is one encomienda, with one thousand five hundred Indians living in the village of Libon and its environs. This lake of Libon, lying in a mountainous region, has many creeks, by which one can easily go to Yguas, Albay, Camarines, Bicagua, and other places. The town of Caçeres has in all twenty-four encomenderos. Fourteen of them, including the seven above mentioned, have seven hundred Indians each; one has two thousand; another, that of lake Libon, has one thousand five hundred; and the rest have about three hundred Indians each. The inhabitants of the Vicor River district pay their tribute in gold and rice, for they possess these articles in great abundance--for in this province are the excellent mines of Paracale, sixteen leagues from the town; they work also the mines of Catanduanes, thirty leagues from the town. The town has no dependencies, nor does it hold any jurisdiction over other communities. The whole district is under the jurisdiction of the alcalde-mayor of the province of Laguna. This province has a population of about one thousand five hundred, and is allotted to three encomenderos.

Albay and Baquian are inhabited by about eight hundred Indians, who are allotted to two encomenderos. Camarines, with about five hundred men, is under one encomendero.

Libon is under one encomendero, and has one thousand five hundred men.

The province of Paracale and its coast, as far as Mahuban, is inhabited by about two thousand men, and is allotted to three encomenderos. The king owns a share of this province.

The district around the bay of Yvalon has a population of about one thousand five hundred, being divided between two encomenderos.

_Island of Catanduanes_. The island of Catanduanes has a population of about four thousand, and is allotted to four encomenderos. The alcalde-mayor receives a salary of three hundred pesos, which is paid from the fines forfeited to the royal treasury, or from the royal treasury itself. He appoints no lieutenant, except one for the town when he is absent. The governor appointed a notary for this town, who, having little to do, attends also to the affairs of the alcalde-mayor, and accompanies him on his tours of inspection. Thus his various occupations yield him an annual income of nearly four hundred pesos.

There is also a treasurer in this town, appointed by the governor, at a salary of two hundred pesos. His duty is to collect the tribute due to his Majesty, and to go every year to Manila to give an account of his work.

The country is fertile and healthy. It abounds in rice and palm-trees, from which wine and a great quantity of brandy are made.

As already said, the natives of this province closely resemble the Pintados--although the former are more slothful; for they spend nearly all their time in drinking, while their wives cultivate the land. Like the Pintados, they are a sociable people, and observe the same customs.

They all worship the ugly wooden idol, and talk to the demon. They have also many wizards. Not having lived in this province, I am not acquainted with their manner of sacrifice, nor have I found one who could tell me of it.

_Mines_. As I have said, there are mines in Paracale, in the bay of Caporaguay, and in the island of Catanduanes. All these districts are in the neighborhood of the town of Caçeres.

_Distances_. From Pasacao, one has to follow the coast of the island eastward twenty leagues to Bucaygan, and sixty leagues more to the northwest, before he reaches Vicor River. All this may be shortened to the three leagues [by land] between Pasacao and the Vicor River. The distance between Vicor River and the cape of Babuyanes--situated at the other end of the island, toward Japan, as above stated--is one hundred and twenty leagues. The coast between Vicor and Babuyanes is rugged, and extends northwest and southeast. Not all this land is inhabited, but only three districts of it, namely: the province of Valete, with about eight hundred Indians; ten leagues farther, that of Casiguran, with about five hundred Indians (a district resembling Ylocos, which lies on the opposite coast, although the two provinces have no communication, because of the ruggedness of the country); and, farther on, the province of Alanao River. This last is well peopled, and produces gold and cotton; its native Indians resemble those of Valete and Casiguran. Besides these three districts, no other settlement on this coast is encountered until the cape of Babuyanes is reached. From the cape the coast runs east and west until the river of Cagayan is reached. This is a very large river. It is twelve leagues from the cape to the mouth of this river.

_River Cagayan_. Cagayan is a river of great volume, although its bar forms shallows. At high tide the bar has two brazas of water, and at low tide one. On its banks are large settlements with a population of more than thirty thousand. The people gather a great quantity of rice, and keep many swine. They have also some gold, although there are no gold mines. Their trade is carried on with the men of Ylocos. This region is unwholesome, especially when the north wind prevails.

_Islands of Mandato and Buyon_. On the opposite coast, near the island of Luçon, are two inhabited islets, called Mandato and Buyon respectively, each one about five leagues in circumference, settled by Moros, on account of their lying so near the island of Luçon opposite the bay of Manila. [_Marginal note:_ "The island of Luçon curves from the city of Manilla, where the change in direction begins, to the river of Cagayan."]

_Island of Marinduque_. Between the island of Banton and that of Luçon, four leagues from the former and five from the latter, lies the island of Marinduque. It is about twenty-six leagues in circumference, and eight leagues wide, and contains about one thousand men. Capul and this island are under the charge of one encomendero. The Indians are Pintados, although under the jurisdiction of neither Çubu, Arevalo, nor Camarines.

Chapter Fifth

_Which treats of the province of Ylocos_

_Island of Luzon, continued_. Going out of the bay of Manilla, and sailing north toward the province of Ylocos, first comes the province of the Çambales. This province has about one thousand men, who are like the Chichimecos of Nueva España. Their customs are much like those of the Moros; they differ from the latter in their dress. These people wear short trousers, and short-sleeved jackets shaped to fit [the neck: _crossed out in MS_.], which resemble the _saltambarca_. [12] On the middle of the breast, and on the shoulders, they wear a badge resembling a cross, fashioned in different colors. Some of them cut only half of their hair--namely, from the brow to the crown of the head. The villages of this province which are known are Marayomo, Pinahuyu, Mahaban, Buanguin, Tuguy, Polo, Bongalon, Dalayap, Cabatogan, and Bacol. It is the custom among this people to punish murderers by boring a hole through the crown of the head and taking out the brains.

_Province of Bulinao_. Next comes Bulinao, also inhabited by Çambales; but the province belongs to his Majesty. It has a population of about four hundred peaceful Indians, besides many more who live among the mountains. The latter are a warlike people, whose only delight and satisfaction is in waging war and in cutting off one another's heads, which they hang up in their houses. The man who can display the most heads in his house is he who is most respected and feared by all. They cultivate the land although only in small tracts. They are like the Chichimecos of Nueva España, who cannot be subdued--except that the villages of Bulinao, as I have said, contain about four hundred Indians who are pacified. These people recognize a God in heaven; but in times of trouble and sickness they invoke their dead and their ancestors, like the people of Visaya.

_Bay of Pangasinan_. About five leagues farther is the province of Pangasinan. Its bay is about six leagues around. Three large rivers, which flow from the mining district of the mountains, fall into this bay. This province has a peaceful population of four thousand. The land is allotted to six encomenderos; but the best portion of it, which has one thousand men, belongs to his Majesty. The people resemble the Cambales above mentioned, in both dress and language; but they are more intelligent, for they are traders and traffic with the Chinese, Japanese, Borneans, and the natives of other islands. This province abounds in food supplies, such as rice, goats, and swine; and many buffaloes are hunted. The main occupation of this people is commerce; but they are also good farmers, and sell their articles of food and clothing to the miners; the gold that they obtain in return for these they barter with the Spaniards. The men are very jealous of their wives, whom they kill immediately if caught in adultery; nor do the relatives of the latter resent the deed. These people, like the Pintados, kill their children if they have many, in order that they may not live in poverty.

_Alcalde-mayor of Pangassinan_. For two years this district has had one alcalde-mayor, who receives a salary of one hundred pesos. From this province one can go by land to Manilla, over a very smooth and good road, having to travel only fourteen or fifteen leagues to arrive at the Capanpanga River.

_Port of Japon_. Four leagues farther is a port which is called the port of Japon. There is a settlement of [Spaniard: _crossed out in MS_.] Indians, of the same race as those of Pangasinan.

_Alinguey and Baratao_. Six leagues farther are the villages of Alinguey and Baratao, with a population of about two thousand. Once they were allotted to one encomendero, but now they belong to the royal crown. The people are of the same race as those who inhabit Pangasinan.

_Purao_. Four leagues farther are the villages of Purao, with a population of two thousand. These towns are under the encomendero of Bitis and Lubao. The people differ from the above in language, but resemble them in their behavior and customs. They till the land; and possess much gold, on account of being near the mines. These people do not kill their children, as do the people of Pangasinan.

_Villages of Lumaquaque_. Three leagues farther is the valley of Lumaquaque, where live about one thousand five hundred natives. Half of this district is under one encomendero, the other half belongs to his Majesty. The people resemble those of Purao.

_Villages of Candon_. Two leagues farther are the villages of Candon, with a population of about one thousand eight hundred. They are under two encomenderos. The people resemble those of Purao.

_Province of Maluacan_. Three leagues farther is the province of Maluacan, with a population of about one thousand eight hundred. It is under the encomendero of Bonbon.

_Valley of Landan_. Two leagues farther is the valley of Landan, with a population of about one thousand Indians, who belong to the hospital of the city of Manilla.

_Village of Vigan_. Opposite this valley is the village of Vigan, with about eight hundred inhabitants. It belongs to his Majesty. Not far from Vigan is settled the town of Fernandina, which Guido de la Vezaris founded in the year seventy-five. He appointed there six regidors, two alcaldes, and one chief justice for all the provinces of the Ylocos.

_Alcalde-mayor of Ylocos_. At the coming of Limahon, Fernandina was plundered, and there only remains now one alcalde-mayor, with twenty or thirty Spaniards, who usually dwell there as if in banishment. The alcalde-mayor receives a salary of three hundred pesos, and appoints notaries at his pleasure.

_Valley of Bantay_. One league from this town is the valley of Bantay, with a population of about one thousand six hundred, and one encomendero.

_Valley of Sinay_. Three leagues farther is the valley of Sinay, which is under the same encomendero of Bantay, and has a population of about one thousand six hundred.

_The valley of Vavo_. Two leagues from Sinay is the valley of Vavo. It is under one encomendero, and has a population of about one thousand Indians.

_Province of Cacaguayan_. Still farther is the province of Cacaguayan, with a population of about four thousand. Two thousand of them are under two encomenderos--each with one thousand; and two thousand belong to his Majesty.

_Province of Ylagua._ Two leagues farther is the province of Ylagua, which belongs to his Majesty. It has a population of about five thousand, but they are not all peaceful.

_Valley of Dynglas._ Three leagues inland from this province is a valley called Dinglas. It has a population of about two thousand Indians, and one encomendero.