Chapter VII: Front Matter (7)
Take a rosted Kidney of Veal, cold and minced small, put to it grated bread, Nutmeg, Currans, Sugar and Salt, with some Almonds blanched and beaten with Rosewater, mingle all these together with beaten Eggs and a little Cream, then cut thin slices of white Bread, and lay this Compound between two of them, and so fry them, and strew Sugar on them, and serve them in.
239. _To make good Pancakes._
Take twenty Eggs with half the Whites, and beat them well and mix them with fine flower and beaten Spice, a little Salt, Sack, Ale, and a little Yeste, do not make your Batter too thin, then beat it well, and let it stand a little while to rise, then fry them with sweet Lard or with Butter, and serve them in with the Juice of Orange and Sugar.
240. _To fry Veal._
Cut part of a Leg of Veal into thin slices, and hack them with the back of a Knife, then season them with beaten Spice and Salt, and lard them well with Hogs Lard, then chop some sweet herbs, and beat some Eggs and mix together and dip them therein, and fry them in Butter, then stew them with a little white Wine and some Anchovies a little while, then put in some Butter, and shake them well, and serve them in with sliced Limon over them.
241. _To make good Paste._
Take to a peck of fine flower three pound of butter, and three Eggs, and a little cold Cream, and work it well together, but do not break your Butter too small, and it will be very fine Crust, either to bake meat in, or fruit, or what else you please.
It is also a very fine Dumplin, if you make it into good big Rolls, and boil them and butter them, or roul some of it out thin, and put a great Apple therein, and boil and butter them, with Rosewater, Butter and Sugar.
242. _To make good Paste to raise._
Take to a Peck of Flower two pounds of Butter and a little tried Suet, let them boil with a little Water or Milk, then put two Eggs into your Flower, and mix them well together, then make a hole in the middle of your Flower, and put in the top of your boiling Liquor, and so much of the rest as will make it in to a stiff Paste, then lay it into a warm Cloth to rise.
243. _Paste for cold Baked meats._
Take to every Peck of Flower one pound of Butter or a little more, with hot Liquor as the other, and put a little dissolved Isinglass in it, because such things require strength; you may not forget Salt in all your Pastes, and work these Pastes made with hot Liquor much more than the other.
244. _To make a Veal Pie in Summer._
Take thin slices of a Fillet of Veal, then having your Pie ready and Butter in it, lay in your Veal seasoned with a little Nutmeg and Salt so cover it with Butter, and close it and bake it, then against it be drawn, scald some Goosberries or Grapes in Sugar and water as to preserve, and when you open your Pie, put in pieces of Marrow boiled in white Wine with a little blade of Mace:
Then put these Grapes or Goosberries over all, or else some hard Lettuce or Spinage boiled and buttered.
245. _To make a Pie of Shrimps, or of Prawns._
Pick them clean from their Shells, and have in readiness your Pie with Butter in the bottom, then lay in your Fish with some large Mace and Nutmeg, and then Butter again, and so bake it:
Then cut it up and put in some White Wine and an Anchovy or two, and some Butter, and so serve them in hot; thus you may do with Lobsters or Crabs, or with Crafish.
246. _To make a Pie of Larks, or of Sparrows._
Pluck your Birds and draw them, then fill the Bellies of them with this mixture following, grated bread, sweet herbs minced small, Beef Suet or Marrow minced, Almonds blanched and beated with Rosewater, a little Cream; beaten Spice, and a little Salt, some Eggs and some Currans, mix these together, and do as I have said, then having your Pie ready raised or laid in your baking-pan, put in Butter, and then fill it with Birds.
Then put in Nutmeg, Pepper and Salt, and put in the yolks of hard Eggs, and some sweet herbs minced, then lay in pieces of Marrow, and cover it with Butter, and so close it and bake it; then cut it open and wring in the Juice of an Orange and some Butter, and serve it.
247. _To make a Lettuce Pie._
Take your Cabbage Lettuce and cut them in halves, wash them and boil them in water and salt very green, then drain them from the water, so having your Pie in readiness, put in Butter; then put in your boiled Lettuce, with some Marrow, Raisins of the Sun stoned, Dates stoned and sliced thin, with some large Mace, and Nutmeg sliced, then put in more Butter, close it and bake it; then cut it open, and put in Verjuice, Butter and Sugar, and so serve it.
[Transcriber's note: no number in original] _To stew a Neck of Mutton._
Put your Neck of Mutton cut in Steaks into so much Wine and Water as will cover it, with some whole Spice, let it stew till it be enough, then put in two Anchovies, and a handful of Capers, with a piece of sweet Butter shake it very well, and serve it upon Sippets.
248. _To make a Pie of a rosted Kidney of Veal._
Mince the Kidney with the Fat, and put to it some sweet herbs minced very small, a quarter of a pound of Dates stoned, and sliced thin and minced, season it with beaten Spice, Sugar and Salt, put in half a pound of Currans, and some grated bread, mingle all these together very well with Verjuice and Eggs, and make them into Balls, so put some Butter into your Pie, and then these Balls, then more Butter, so close it and bake it;
Then cut it open, and put in Verjuice, Butter and Sugar made green with the Juice of some Spinage, add to it the yolks of Eggs.
249. _To make a Potato Pie._
Having your Pie ready, lay in Butter, and then your Potatoes boiled very tender, then some whole Spice and Marrow, Dates and the yolks of hard Eggs blanched Almonds, and Pistacho Nuts, the Candied Pills of Citron, Orange and Limon, put in more Butter close it and bake it, then cut it open, and put in Wine, Sugar, the yolks of Eggs and Butter.
250. _To make a Pig Pie._
Spit a whole Pigg and rost it till it will flay, then take it off the Spit, and take off the Skin, and lard it with Hogs Lard; season it with Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg and Sage, then lay it into your Pie upon some Butter, then lay on some large Mace, and some more Butter, and close it and bake it: It is either good hot or cold.
251. _To make a Carp Pie._
Take a large Carp and scale him, gut and wash him clean, and dry him well, then lay Butter into your Pie, and fill your Carps belly with this Pudding; grated bread, sweet herbs, and a little Bacon minced small, the yolks of hard Eggs and an Anchovie minced, also a little Marrow, Nutmeg, and then put in a little Salt, but a very little, and make some of this up in Balls, then Lard the Carp, sew up his Belly, and lay him into your Pie, then lay in the Balls of Pudding, with some Oysters, Shrimps and Capers, and the yolks of hard Eggs and a little Slices of Bacon, then put in large Mace and Butter, so close it and bake it, then cut off the Lid, and stick it full of pretty Conceits made in Paste, and serve it in hot.
252. _To make an Almond Tart._
Take a Quart of Cream, and when it boils, put in half a pound of sweet Almonds blanched and beaten with Rosewater, boil them together till it be thick, always stirring it for fear it burn, then when it is cold, put in a little raw Cream, the yolks of twelve Eggs, and some beaten Spice, some Candied Citron Pill and Eringo Roots sliced, with as much fine Sugar as will sweeten it, then fill your Tart and bake it, and stick it with Almonds blanched, and some Citron Pill, and strew on some small French Comfits of several colours, and garnish your Dish with Almonds blanched, and preserved Barberries.
253. _To make a dainty White-Pot._
Take a Manchet cut like Lozenges, and scald it in some Cream, then put to it beaten Spice, Eggs, Sugar and a little Salt, then put in Raisins, and Dates stoned, and some Marrow; do not bake it too much for fear it Whey, then strew on some fine Sugar and serve it in.
254. _To make a Red Deer Pie._
Bone your Venison, and if it be a Side, then skin it, and beat it with an Iron Pestle but not too small, then lay it in Claret wine, and Vinegar, in some close thing two days and nights if it be Winter, else half so long, then drain it and dry it very well, and if lean, lard it with fat Bacon as big as your finger, season it very high with all manner of Spices and Salt, make your Pie with Rye Flower, round and very high, then lay store of Butter in the bottom and Bay Leaves, then lay in your Venison with more Bay leaves and Butter; so close it, and make a Tunnel in the middle, and bake it as long as you do great Loaves, when it is baked, fill it up with melted Butter, and so keep it two or three months, serve it in with the Lid off, and Bay Leaves about the Dish; eat it with mustard and sugar.
255. _To make a Pie of a Leg of Pork._
Take a Leg of Pork well powdred and stuffed with all manner of good Herbs, and Pepper, and boil it very tender, then take off the Skin, and stick it with Cloves and Sage Leaves, then put it into your Pie with Butter top and bottom, close it and bake it, and eat it cold with Mustard and Sugar.
256. _To make a Lamprey Pie._
Take your Lamprey and gut him, and take away the black string in the back, wash him very well, and dry him, and season him with Nutmeg, Pepper and Salt, then lay him into your Pie in pieces with Butter in the bottom, and some Shelots and Bay Leaves and more Butter, so close it and bake it, and fill it up with melted Butter, and keep it cold, and serve it in with some Mustard and Sugar.
257. _To make a Salmon Pie._
Take a Joll of Salmon raw, and scale it and lay it into your Pie upon Butter and Bay leaves, then season it with whole spice and a little Salt, then lay on some Shrimps and Oysters with some Anchovies, then more Spice and Butter, so close the lid and bake it, but first put in some White Wine, serve it hot, then if it wants, put in more Wine and Butter.
258. _To make a Pudding of French Barley._
Take French Barley tenderly boiled, then take to one Pint of Barley half a Manchet grated, and four Ounces of sweet Almonds blanched and beeten with Rosewater, half a Pint of Cream, and eight Eggs with half the Whites, season it with Nutmeg, Mace, Sugar and Salt, then put in some Fruit, both Raisins and Currans, and some Marrow, mingle these well together, and fill Hogs Guts with it.
259. _To make a hasty Pudding in a Bag or Cloth._
Boil a Quart of thick Cream with six spoonfuls of fine Flower, then season it with Nutmeg and Salt, then wet a Cloth, and flower it and butter it, then boil it, and butter it, and serve it in.
260. _To make a Shaking Pudding._
Take a Quart of Cream and boil it, then put in some Almonds blanched and beaten, when it is boiled and almost cold, put in eight Eggs, and half the Whites, with a little grated Bread, Spice and Sugar, and a very little Salt;
Then wet Flower and Butter, and put it in a Cloth and boil it, but not too much, serve it in with Rosewater, Butter and Sugar, and strew it with small French Comfits.
261. _To make a Haggus Pudding._
Take a Calves Chaldron well scowred, boiled, and the Kernels taken out, mince it small, then take four or five Eggs, and half the Whites, some thick Cream, grated bread, Rosewater and Sugar, and a little Salt, Currans and Spice, and some sweet herbs chopped small, then put in some Marrow or Suet finely shred, so fill the Guts, and boil them.
262. _To make an Oatmeal Pudding._
Take the biggest Oatmeal and steep it in warm Cream one night, then put in some sweet herbs minced small, the yolks of Eggs, Sugar, Spice, Rosewater and a little Salt, with some Marrow, then Butter a Cloth, and boil it well, and serve it in with Rosewater, Butter and Sugar.
263. _To make Puddings of Wine._
Slice two Manchets into a Pint of White Wine, and let your Wine be first mulled with Spice, and with Limon Pill, then put to it ten Eggs well beaten with Rosewater, some Sugar and a little Salt, with some Marrow and Dates, so bake it a very little, strew Sugar on it, and serve it; instead of Manchet you may use Naples Bisket, which is better.
264. _To make Puddings with Hogs Lights._
Parboil them very well, and mince them small with Suet of a Hog, then mix it with bread grated, and some Cream and Eggs, Nutmeg, Rosewater, Sugar and a little Salt, with some Currans, mingle them well together, and fill the Guts and boil them.
265. _To make Stone Cream._
Boil a quart of Cream with whole spice then pour it out into a Dish, but let it be one quarter consumed in the boiling, then stir it till it be almost cold, then put some Runnet into it as for a Cheese, and stir it well together, and colour it with a little Saffron, serve it in with Sack and Sugar.
266. _To make a Posset Pie with Apples._
Take the Pulp of rosted Apples and beat it well with Sugar and Rosewater to make it very sweet, then mix it with sweet Cream, and the yolks of raw Eggs, some Spice and Sack, then having your Paste ready in your Bake-pan, put in this stuff and bake it a little, then stick it with Candied Pills, and so serve it in cold.
267. _To dry Pippins about_ Christmas _or before._
When your Houshold Bread is drawn, then set in a Dish full of Pippins, and about six hours after take them out and lay them in several Dishes one by one, and flat them with your hands a little, so do twice a day, and still set them into a warm Oven every time till they are dry enough; then lay them into Boxes with Papers between every Lay.
268. _To make Snow Cream._
Take a Quart of Cream, and 4 Ounces of blanched Almonds, beaten and strained, with half a Pint of White Wine, a piece of Orange Pill and a Nutmeg sliced, and three Sprigs of Rosemary, mix these things together, and let them stand three hours, then strain it, and put the thick part into a deep Dish, and sweeten it with Sugar, then beat some Cream with the Whites of Eggs till it be a thick Froth, and cast the Froth over it to a good thickness.
269. _To boil Whitings or Flounders._
Boil some White Wine, Water, and Salt, with some sweet Herbs and whole Spice; when it boils put in a little Vinegar, for that will make Fish crisp, then let it boil apace and put in your Fish, and boil them till they swim, then take them out and drain them, and make Sauce for them with some of the Liquor and an Anchovie or two, some Butter and some Capers, heat them over the Fire, and beat it up thick and pour it over them; garnish your Dish with Capers and Parsley, Oranges and Limons and let it be very hot when you serve it in.
270. _To make a Pie of a Gammon of Bacon._
Take a _Westphalia_ Gammon, and boil it tender with hay in the Kettle, then take off the Skin and stick it with Cloves and strew it with Pepper, then make your Pie ready, and put it therein with Butter at the bottom, then cover your Bacon with Oysters, parboiled in Wine and their own Liquor, and put in Balls made of Sausage meat, then put in the Liquor of the parboiled Oysters, some whole Spice and Bay Leaves, with some Butter, so close it, and bake it and eat it cold, you may put into it the yolks of hard Eggs if you please, serve it with Mustard Sugar and Bay Leaves.
271. _To bake a Bulloks Cheek to be eaten hot._
Take your Cheek and stuff it very well with Parsley and sweet herbs chopped, then put it into a Pot with some Claret wine and a little strong Beer, and some whole Spice, and so season it well with Salt to your taste, and cover your Pot and bake it, then take it out, and pull out the Bones, and serve it upon tosted bread with some of the Liquor.
272. _To bake a Bullocks Cheek to eat cold, as Venison._
Take a Bullocks Cheek, or rather two fair fat Cheeks, and lay them in water one night, then take out every bone, and stuff it very well with all manner of Spice and Salt, then put it into a Pot, one Cheek clapped close together upon the other, then lay it over with Bay Leaves, and put in a Quart of Claret Wine, so cover the Pot and bake it with Houshold Bread, when you draw it, pour all the Liquor out, and take only the fat of it and some melted Butter, and pour in again, serve it cold with Mustard and Sugar, and dress it with Bay Leaves, it will eat like Venison.
273. _To make a Bacon Froize._
Take eight Eggs well beaten, and a little Cream, and a little Flower, and beat them well together to be like other Batter, then fry very thin slices of Bacon, and pour some of this over, then fry it, and turn the other side, and pour more upon that, so fry it and serve it to the Table.
274. _To make fryed Nuts._
Take Eggs, Flower, Spice and Cream, and make it into a Paste, then make it into round Balls and fry them, they must be as big as Walnuts, be sure to shake them well in the Pan and fry them brown, then roul some out thin, and cut them into several shapes, and fry them, so mix them together, and serve them in with Spice beaten and Sugar.
275. _To make a_ Sussex _Pancake._
Take only some very good Pie Paste made with hot Liquor, and roul it thin, and fry it with Butter, and serve it in with beaten spice and sugar as hot as you can.
276. _To make a Venison Pasty._
Take a Peck of fine Flower, and three Pounds of fresh Butter, break your Butter into your Flower, and put in one Egg, and make it into a Past with so much cold cream as you think fit, but do not mould it too much, then roul it pretty thin and broad, almost square, then lay some Butter on the bottom, then season your Venison on the fleshy side with Pepper grosly beaten, and Salt mixed, then lay your Venison upon your butter with the seasoned side downward, and then cut the Venison over with your Knife quite cross the Pasty to let the Gravie come out the better in baking, then rub some seasoning in those Cuts, and do not lay any else because it will make it look ill-favoured and black, then put some paste rouled thin about the Meat to keep it in compass, and lay Butter on the top, then close it up and bake it very well, but you must trim it up with several Fancies made in the same Paste, and make also a Tunnel or Vent, and just when you are going to set it into the Oven, put in half a Pint of Clarret Wine, that will season your Venison finely, and make it shall not look or taste greasie, thus you may bake Mutton if you please.
277. _To make a brave Tart of several Sweet Meats._
Take some Puff-paste, and roule it very thin, and lay it in the bottom of your baking-pan, then lay in a Lay of preserved Rasberries, then some more Paste very thin to cover them, then some Currans preserved, and then a Sheet of Paste to cover them, then Cherries, and another Sheet to cover them, then any white Sweet-Meat, as Pippins, white Plumbs or Grapes, so lid it with Puff-paste, cut in some pretty Fancy to shew the Fruit, then bake it, and stick it full of Candied Pills, and serve it in cold.
278. _To make Ice and Snow._
Take new Milk and some Cream and mix it together, and put it into a Dish, and set it together with Runnet as for a Cheese, and stir it together, when it is come, pour over it some Sack and Sugar, then take a Pint of Cream and a little Rosewater, and the Whites of three Eggs, and whip it to a froth with a Birchen Rod, then as the Froth arises, cast it upon your Cream which hath the Runnet in it, till it lies deep, then lay on Bunches of preserved Barberries here and there carelesly, and cast more Snow upon them, which will look exceeding well; then garnish your Dish being broad brim'd with all kind of Jellies in pretty-fancies, and several Colours.
279. _To make a Mutton Pie._
Cut a Loin or Neck of Mutton in steaks, and season it with Pepper and Salt, and Nutmeg, then lay it in your Pie upon Butter; then fill up your Pie with Apples sliced thin, and a few great Onions sliced thin, then put in more Butter, and close it and bake it, and serve it in hot.
280. _To poach Eggs the best way._
Boil Vinegar and Water together with a few Cloves and Mace, when it boiles break in your Eggs, and turn them about gently with a Tin slice till the White be hard, then take them up, and pare away what is not handsom, and lay them on Sippets, and strew them over with plumped Currans, then take Verjuice, Butter and Sugar heat together, and pour over, and serve them in hot.
281. _A good Sallad in Winter._
Take a good hard Cabbage, and with a sharp Knife shave it so thin as you may not discern what it is, then serve it with Oil and Vinegar.
282. _Another Sallad in Winter._
Take Corn Sallad clean picked and also well washed, and clear from the water, put it into a Dish in some handsom form with some Horse Radish scraped, and some Oil and Vinegar.
283. _To make Sorrel Sopps for Green Geese or Chickens, or for a Sick Body to eat alone._
Take a good quantity of French Sorrel clean picked, and stamp it in a Mortar, then strain it into a Dish, and set it over a Chafing dish of Coals, and put a little Vinegar to it, then when it is thick by wasting, wring in the Juice of a Limon and sweeten it with Sugar, and put in a little grated bread and Nutmeg, then warm another Dish with thin slices of white bread, and put some butter to your Sorrel Liquor, and pour over them, serve them in with Slices of Limon and fine Sugar.
284. _To make Green Sauce for a powdred Leg of Pork, or for a Spring._
Take a great quantity of French Sorrel, and pick out the Strings and wash it well, and drain it clean from the water, then stamp it in a Mortar till it be extream fine, then put in grated bread and beat it again, then a few Currans and the yolks of hard Eggs, and when it is beaten to a kind of Pap, put in a little Vinegar and Sugar into it; so serve it in upon a Plate with your Meat.
285. _To make_ Vin de Molosso, _or Treacle Wine._
Take fair Water and make it so strong with Molossoes, otherwise called Treacle, as that it will bear an Egg, then boil it with a Bag of all kinds of Spices, and a Branch or two of Rosemary, boil it and scum it, and put in some sweet herbs or flowers, according to the time of the year, boil it till a good part be consumed, and that it be very clear, then set it to cool in several things, and when it is almost cold, work it with yest, as you do Beer, the next day put it into the Vessel, and so soon as it hath done working stop it up close, and when it hath stood a fortnight, bottle it, this is a very wholesom Drink against any Infection, or for any that are troubled with the Ptisick.
286. _For a Consumption, an excellent Medicine._
Take Shell Snails, and cast Salt upon them, and when you think they are cleansed well from their slime, wash them, and crack their Shells and take them off, then wash them in the distilled Water of Hysop, then put them into a Bag made of Canvas, with some white Sugar Candy beaten, and hang up the Bag, and let it drop as long as it will, which if you bruise the Snails before you hang them up, it is the better; this Liquor taken morning and evening a Spoonful at a time is very rare.
287. _A Suitable Dish for Lent._
Take a large Dish with broad Brims, and in the middle put blanched Almonds round about them, Raisins of the Sun, and round them Figs, and beyond them all coloured Jellies, and on the Brims Fig-Cheese.
288. _To make a Rock in Sweet-Meats._
First take a flat broad voiding Basket, then have in readiness a good thick Plum Cake, then cut your Cake fit to the bottom of the Basket, and cut a hole in the middle of it, that the foot of your Glass may go in, which must be a Fountain-Glass, let it be as high a one as you can get; put the foot of it in the hole of the Cake edgling that it may stand the faster, then tie the Cake fast with a Tape to the Basket, first cross one way and then another, then tie the foot of the Glass in that manner too, that it may stand steady, then cut some odd holes in your Cake carelesly, then take some Gum Dragon steeped in Rosewater, and mix it with some fine Sugar, not too thick, and with that you must fasten all your Rock together, in these holes which you cut in your Cake you must fasten some sort of Biskets, as Naples Biskets, and other common Bisket made long, and some ragged, and some coloured, that they may look like great ill-favoured, Stones, and some handsome, some long, some short, some bigger, and some lesser, as you know Nature doth afford, and some of one colour and some of another, let some stand upright and some aslannt, and some quite along, and fasten them all with your Gum, then put in some better Sweet-meats, as Mackeroons and Marchpanes, carelesly made as to the shape, and not put on the Rock in a set form, also some rough Almond Cakes made with the long slices of Almonds (as I have directed before;) so build it up in this manner, and fasten it with the Gum and Sugar, till it be very high, then in some places you must put whole Quinces Candied, both red and white, whole Orange Pills and Limon Pills Candied; dried Apricocks, Pears and Pippins Candied, whole Peaches Candied, then set up here and there great lumps of brown and white Sugar-candy upon the stick, which much resembles some clusters of fine Stones growing on a Rock; for Sand which lies sometimes among the little Stones, strew some brown Sugar; for Moss, take herbs of a Rock Candy; then you must make the likeness of Snakes and Snails and Worms, and of any venomous Creature you can think of; make them in Sugar Plate and colour them to their likeness, and put them in the holes that they may seem to lurk, and some Snails creeping one way and some other; then take all manner of Comfits, both rough and smooth, both great and small, and colour many of them, some of one colour and some of another, let some be white and some speckled, then when you have coloured them, and that they are dry, mix them together and throw them into the Clefts, but not too many in one place, for that will hide the shape of your work, then throw in some Chips of all sorts of Fruit Candied, as Orange, Limon, Citron, Quince, Pear, and Apples, for of all these you may make Chips; then all manner of dryed Plumbs, and Cherries, Cornelions dryed, Rasps and Currans; and in some places throw a few Prunelles, Pistacho Nuts, blanched Almonds, Pine Kernels, or any such like, and a pound of the great round perfumed Comfits; then take the lid off the top of the Glass and fill it with preserved Grapes, and fill another with some Harts-horn Jelly, place these two far from one another, and if you set some kind of Fowl, made in Marchpanes, as a Peacock, or such like, and some right Feathers gummed on with Gum Arabick, let this Fowl stand as though it did go to drink at the Glass of Harts-horn Jelly, and then they will know who see it, that those two liquid Glasses serve for resemblance of several Waters in the Rock.
Then make good store of Oyster shells and Cockle shells of Sugar Plate, let some be pure white as though the Sea water had washed them, some brown on the outside, and some green, some as it were dirty, and others worn away in some Places, some of them broke, and some whole, so set them here and there about the Rock, some edgling, and some flat, some the hollow side upward, and some the other, then stick the Moss, some upon the shells, and some upon the stones, and also little branches of Candied Fruits, as Barberries, Plums, and the like, then when all is done, sprinkle it over with Rosewater, with a Grain or two of Musk or Ambergreece in it; your Glass must be made with a reasonable proportion of bigness to hold the Wine, and from that, in the middle of it, there must be a Conveyance to fall into a Glass below it, which must have Spouts for the Wine to play upward or downward, then from thence in another Glass below, with Spouts also, and from thence it hath a Conveyance into a Glass below that, somewhat in form like a Sillibub Pot, where the Wine may be drunk out at the Spout; you may put some Eringo Roots, and being coloured, they will shew very well among the other Sweet-Meats, tie your Basket about with several sorts of small Ribbons: Do not take this for a simple Fancy, for I assure you, it is the very same that I taught to a young Gentlewoman to give for a Present to a Person of Quality.
TO THE READER.
_Courteous Reader,
I Think it not amiss, since I have given you, as I think, a very full Direction for all kinds of Food both for Nourishment and Pleasure, that I do shew also how to eat them in good order; for there is a Time and Season for all things: Besides, there is not anything well done which hath not a Rule, I shall therefore give you several Bills of Service for Meals according to the Season of the Year, so that you may with ease form up a Dinner in your Mind quickly; afterwards I shall speak of ordering of Banquets; but these things first, because Banquets are most proper after Meals.
All you who are knowing already and Vers'd in such things, I beseech you to take it only as a_ Memorandum; _and to those who are yet unlearned, I presume they will reap some Benefit by these Directions; which is truly wished and desired by_
Hanna Woolley _alias_ Chaloner.
* * * * *
_A Bill of Service for extraordinary Feasts in the Summer._
1. A Grand Sallad.
2. A boiled Capon or Chickens.
3. A boiled Pike or Bream.
4. A Florentine in Puff Paste.
5. A Haunch of Venison rosted.
6. A Lomber Pie.
7. A Dish of Green Geese.
8. A Fat Pig with a Pudding in the belly.
9. A Venison Pasty.
10. A Chicken Pie.
11. A Dish of young Turkeys.
12. A Potato Pie.
13. A couple of Caponets.
14. A Set Custard.
_The Second Course_
1. A Dish of Chickens rosted.
2. Souced Conger or Trouts.
3. An Artichoke Pie.
4. A Cold Baked Meat.
5. A Souced Pig.
6. A Dish of Partridges.
7. An Oringado Pie.
8. A Dish of Quails.
9. Another cold Baked Meat.
10. Fresh Salmon.
11. A Dish of Tarts.
12. A Joll of Sturgeon.
_The Third Course._
1. Dish of fried Perches.
2. A Dish of Green Pease.
3. A Dish of Artichokes.
4. A Dish of Lobsters.
5. A Dish of Prawns or Shrimps.
6. A Dish of Anchovies.
7. A Dish of pickled Oysters.
8. Two or three dried Tongues.
* * * * *
_Another Bill of Fare for Winter Season._
1. A Collar of Brawn.
2. A Capon and White Broth.
3. A boiled Gurnet.
4. A Dish of boiled Ducks or Rabbits.
5. A rosted Tongue and Udder.
6. A made Dish in Puff-Paste.
7. A Shoulder of Mutton with Oysters.
8. A Chine of Beef.
9. A Dish of Scotch Collops of Veal.
10. Two Geese in a Dish.
11. An Olive Pie.
12. A Pig.
13. A Loin of Veal.
14. A Lark Pie.
15. A Venison Pasty.
16. A Dish of Capons, two in a Dish or three.
17. A Dish of Set Custards.
_The Second Course._
1. Young Lamb cut in Joints, three Joints in a Dish Larded.
2. A couple of Fat Rabbets.
3. A Kickshaw fried or baked.
4. A Dish of rofted Mallards.
5. A Leash of Partridges.
6. A Pigeon Pie.
7. Four Woodcocks in a Dish.
8. A Dish of Teal, four or six.
9. A cold baked Meat.
10. A good Dish of Plover.
11. Twelve Snites in a Dish.
12. Two Dozen of Larks in a Dish.
13. Another cold baked Meat.
_The Third Course._
1. An Oister Pie hot.
2. A Dish of fried Puffs.
3. Three or four dried Neats Tongues.
4. A Joll of Sturgeon.
5. Laid Tarts in Puff-paste.
6. Pickled Oisters.
7. A Dish of Anchovies and Caveare.
8. A Warden Pie or Quince Pie.
_Note_, That when your last Course is ended, you must serve in your Meat-Jellies, your Cheeses of several sorts, and your Sweet-meats.
* * * * *
_A Bill of Fare for lesser Feasts._
1. An Almond Pudding boiled or baked.
2. A Dish of boiled Pigeons with Bacon.
3. A Leg of Mutton, boiled with good Sauce, or a leg of Pork.
4. A Dish of rosted Olives of Veal.
5. A Dish of Collops and Eggs.
6.A piece of rosted Beef.
7. A Dish of Scotch Collops.
8. A Loin of Veal.
9. A fat Pig rosted.
10. Two Turkies in a Dish.
11. A Venison Pasty.
12. A Dish of Pheasants or Partridges.
13. A Dish of Custards in little China Pots.
_The Second Course._
1. Three or four Joints of Lamb rosted asunder, though never so small.
2. A Couple of Rabbits.
3. A Dish of Mallard, Teal or Widgeon.
4. A Leash of Partridges or Woodcocks.
5. A Pigeon Pie.
6. A Dish of Plovers or Snites.
7. A Dish of fat Chickens rosted.
8. A Warden or Quince Pie.
9. A Sowced Pig.
10. A Dish of Tarts of several sorts.
11. A Dish of Lobsters, or Sturgeon.
12. A Dish of pickled Oysters.
* * * * *
_A Bill of Fare for Fish Days and Fasting Days in Ember week, or in Lent._
1. A Dish of Butter newly Churned.
2. A Dish of Rice Milk or Furmity.
3. A Dish of Buttered Eggs.
4. A Dish of stewed Oysters.
5. A Dish of Gurnets boiled.
6. A boiled Sallad.
7. A boiled Pike or two Carps stewed.
8. A Dish of Buttered Loaves.
9. A Pasty of Ling.
10. A Dish of Buttered Salt Fish.
11. A Dish of Smelts.
12. A Dish of White Herrings broiled.
13. A Potato Pie or Skirret Pie.
14. A Dish of Flounders fryed.
15. An Eel Pie or Carp Pie.
16. A Dish of fryed Whitings.
17. A Dish of Salt Salmon.
18. A Dish of Custards.
19. A Joll of Sturgeon.
20. A Dish of Pancakes or Fritters.
_The Second Course._
1. A Dish of Eels spichcockt.
2. A Fricasie of Eels.
3. A Dish of fryed Puffs.
4. A Dish of Potatoes stewed.
5. A Dish of fryed Oysters.
6. A Dish of blanched Manchet.
7. An Oyster Pie with Parsneps.
8. A Pippin Pie Buttered.
9. A Dish of Buttered Shrimps.
10. Two Lobsters rosted.
11. A Dish of Tarts of Herbs.
12. A Dish of souced Fish.
13. A Dish of pickled Oysters.
14. A Dish of Anchovies and Caveare.
* * * * *
_A Bill of Fare without feasting; only such a number of Dishes as are used in Great and Noble Houses for their own Family, and for familiar Friends with them._
_The First Course in Summer Season._
1. A Fine Pudding boiled or baked.
2. A Dish of boiled Chickens.
3. Two Carps stewed or a boiled Pike.
4. A Florentine in Puff-Paste.
5. A Calves head, the one half hashed, and the other broiled.
6. A Haunch of Venison rosted.
7. A Venison Pasty.
8. A Couple of fat Capons, or a Pig, or both.
_The Second Course._
1. A Dish of Partridges.
2. An Artichoke Pie.
3. A Dish of Quails.
4. A cold Pigeon Pie.
5. A Souced Pig.
6. A Joll of fresh Salmon.
7. A Dish of Tarts of several sorts.
8. A Westphalia Gammon and dried Tongues about it.
* * * * *
_A Bill of Fare in Winter in Great Houses._
1. A Collar of Brawn.
2. A Capon and White Broth, or two boiled Rabbits.
3. Two rosted Neats Tongues and an Udder between them.
4. A Chine of Beef rosted.
5. A made Dish in Puffpaste.
6. A Shoulder of Mutton stuffed with Oysters.
7. A fine Sallad of divers sorts of Herbs and Pickles.
8. An Eel Pie or some other Pie.
9. Three young Turkies in a Dish.
10. A Dish of souced Fish, what is most in season.
_The Second Course in Winter in great Houses._
1. A Quarter of Lamb rosted, the Joints Larded with several things, and rosted asunder.
2. A Couple of Rabbits.
3. A Kickshaw fried.
4. A Dish of Mallard or Teals.
5. A Cold Venison Pasty, or other cold Baked meat.
6. A Dish of Snites.
7. A Quince or Warden Pie.
8. A Dish of Tarts.
9. A Joll of Sturgeon.
10. A Dish of pickled Oysters.
* * * * *
_A Bill of Fare for Fish Days in Great Houses and at familiar Times._
1. A Dish of Milk, as Furmity, or the like.
2. A Dish of stewed Oysters or buttered Eggs.
3. A boiled Gurnet, or such like.
4. A Dish of Barrel Cod buttered.
5. A Dish of Buttered Loaves or fryed Toasts.
6. A Pasty made of a Joll of Ling.
7. A Potato Pie, or Skirret Pie.
8. A Dish of Plaice or Flounders.
9. A Piece of salt Salmon.
10. A Carp Pie cold, or Lamprey Pie.
_The Second Course to the Same._
1. A Dish of Eels spitchcockt.
2. A Chine of Salmon broiled.
3. A Dish of Oysters fryed.
4. An Apple pie buttered.
5. A Dish of fryed Smelts.
6. A Dish of buttered Shrimps.
7. A Dish of Skirrets fryed.
8. Two lobsters in a Dish.
9. A Dish of pickled Oysters.
10. A Dish of Anchovies.
When all these are taken away, then serve in your Cheeses of all sorts, and also your Creams and Jellies, and Sweet-meats after them, if they be required.
Thus I have done with the Bills of Fare in Great Houses, although it be impossible to name half which are in season for one Meal; but this will serve you for the number of Dishes, and any Person who is ingenious, may leave out some, and put in other at pleasure.
* * * * *
_A Bill of Fare for Gentlemens Houses of Lesser Quality, by which you may also know how to order any Family beneath another, which is very requisite._
_The First Course in Summer season._
1. A Boiled Pike or Carp stewed.
2. A very fine Pudding boiled.
3. A Chine of Veal, and another of Mutton.
4. A Calves head Pie.
5. A Leg of Mutton rosted whole.
6. A couple of Capons, or a Pig, or a piece of rost Beef, or boiled Beef.
7. A Sallad, the best in season.
_The Second Course to the same._
1. A Dish of fat Chickens rosted.
2. A cold Venison Pasty.
3. A Dish of fryed Pasties.
4. A Joll of fresh Salmon.
5. A couple of Lobsters.
6. A Dish of Tarts.
7. A Gammon of Bacon or dried Tongues.
After these are taken away, then serve in your Cheese and Fruit.
_Note_, That this Bill of Fare is for Familiar times.
* * * * *
_A Bill of Fare for Gentlemens Houses at Familiar Times Winter Season._
_The First Course._
1. A Collar of Brawn.
2. A rosted Tongue and Udder.
3. A Leg of Pork boiled.
4. A piece of rost Beef.
5. A Venison Pasty or other Pie.
6. A Marrow Pudding.
7. A Goose, or Turkie, or Pig.
8. A Sallad of What's in season.
_The Second Course to the same._
1. Two Joints of Lamb rosted.
2. A Couple of Rabbits.
3. A Dish of wild Fowl or Larks.
4. A Goose or Turkie Pie cold.
5. A fryed Dish.
6. Sliced Venison cold.
7. A Dish of Tarts or Custards.
8. A Gammon of Bacon, or dried Tongues, or both in one Dish.
When these are taken away, serve in your Cheese and Fruit as before I have told you.
* * * * *
_A Bill of Fare for Gentlemens Houses upon Fish Days, and at Familiar Times._
1. A Dish of Buttered Eggs.
2. An Almond Pudding Buttered.
3. A Dish of Barrel Cod Buttered.
4. A Sallad of what's in season.
5. A Dish of Fresh Fish boiled.
6. A Dish of Eels Spitchcockt.
7. An Oyster Pie or Herring Pie.
8. A Fricasie of Eels and Oysters.
9. A Carp Pie cold, or Lamprey Pie.
_. The Second Course to the same._
1. An Apple Pie buttered, or some Pancakes or Fritters.
2. A Dish of fryed Smelts.
3. A Dish of broiled Fish.
4. A Dish of buttered Crabs.
5. A Dish of Lobsters and Prawns.
6. A Joll of Sturgeon or Fresh Salmon.
7. A Dish of Tarts or Custards.
8. A Dish of Anchovies or Pickled Herring.
When these are taken away, serve in your Cheese and Fruit as before I have told you.
* * * * *
Now because I would have every one Compleat who have a Desire to serve in Noble or Great Houses, I shall here shew them what their Office requires; And,
First, _For the Kitchin, because without that we shall look lean, and grow faint quickly._
The Cook, whether Man or Woman, ought to be very well skilled in all manner of things both Fish and Flesh, also good at Pastry business, seasoning of all things, and knowing all kinds of Sauces, and pickling all manner of Pickles, in making all manner of Meat Jellies; also very frugal of their Lords or of their Masters, Ladies or Mistresses Purse, very saving, cleanly and careful, obliging to all persons, kind to those under them, and willing to inform them, quiet in their Office, not swearing nor cursing, nor wrangling, but silently and ingeniously to do their Business, and neat and quick about it; they ought also to have a very good Fancy: such an one, whether Man or Woman, deserves the title of a fit Cook.
* * * * *
_For a Maid under such a Cook._
She ought to be of a quick and nimble Apprehension, neat and cleanly in her own habit, and then we need not doubt of it in her Office; not to dress her self, specially her head, in the Kitchin, for that is abominable sluttish, but in her Chamber before she comes down, and that to be at a fit hour, that the fire may be made, and all things prepared for the Cook, against he or she comes in; she must not have a sharp Tongue, but humble, pleasing, and willing to learn; for ill words may provoke Blows from a Cook, their heads being always filled with the contrivance of their business, which may cause them to be peevish and froward, if provoked to it; this Maid ought also to have a good Memory, and not to forget from one day to another what should be done, nor to leave any manner of thing foul at night, neither in the Kitchin, nor Larders, to keep her Iron things and others clean scowred, and the Floors clean as well as places above them, not to sit up junketing and gigling with Fellows, when she should be in bed, such an one is a Consumer of her Masters Goods, and no better than a Thief; and besides, such Behaviour favoureth much of Levity. But such an one that will take the Counsel I have seriously given, will not only make her Superiours happy in a good Servant, but she will make her self happy also; for by her Industry she may come one day to be Mistress over others.
* * * * *
_Now to the Butler._
He ought to be Gentile and Neat in his Habit, and in his Behaviour, courteous to all people, yet very saving of his Masters Goods, and to order himself in his Office as a faithful Steward, charge and do all things for the honour of his Master or Lady, not suffering their Wine or Strong Drink to be devoured by ill Companions, nor the small to be drawn out in waste, nor Pieces of good Bread to lie to mould and spoil, he must keep his Vessels close stopped, and his Bottles sweet, his Cellars clean washed, and his Buttery clean, and his Bread-Bins wholsom and sweet, his Knives whetted, his Glasses clean washed that there be no dimness upon them, when they come to be used, all his Plate clean and bright, his Table, Basket and Linnen very neat, he must be sure to have all things of Sauce ready which is for him to bring forth, that it may not be to be fetched when it is called for, as Oil, Vinegar, Sugar, Salt, Mustard, Oranges and Limons, and also some Pepper; he must also be very neat and handy in laying the Clothes for the Chief Table, and also the Side-boards, in laying his Napkins in several Fashions, and pleiting them, to set his Glasses, Plate, and Trencher-Plates in order upon the Side-boards, his Water-Glasses, Oranges or Limons; that he be careful to set the Salts on the Table, and to lay a Knife, Spoon and Fork at every Plate, that his Bread be chipped before he brings it in; that he set drink to warm in due time if the season require; that he observe a fit time to set Chairs or Stools, that he have his Cistern ready to set his Drink in; that none be spilt about the Room, to wash the Glasses when any one hath drunk, and to wait diligently on them at the Table, not filling the Glasses too full; such an one may call himself a Butler.
* * * * *
_To the Carver._
If any Gentleman who attends the Table, be employed or commanded to cut up any Fowl or Pig, or any thing else whatsoever, it is requisite that he have a clean Napkin upon his Arm, and a Knife and Fork for his use, that he take that dish he should carve from the Table till he hath made it ready for his Superiours to eat, and neatly and handsomly to carve it, not touching of it so near as he can with his Fingers, but if he chance unawares to do so, not to lick his Fingers, but wipe them upon a Cloth, or his Napkin, which he hath for that purpose; for otherwise it is unhandsom and unmannerly; the neatest Carvers never touch any Meat but with the Knife and Fork; he must be very nimble lest the Meat cool too much, and when he hath done, return it to the Table again, putting away his Carving Napkin, and take a clean one to wait withal; he must be very Gentile and Gallant in his Habit, lest he be deemed unfit to attend such Persons.
* * * * *
_To all other Men-Servants or Maid-Servants who commonly attend such Tables._
They must all be neat and cleanly in their Habit, and keep their Heads clean kembed, always ready at the least Call and very attentive to hear any one at the Table, to set Chairs or Stools, and not to give any a foul Napkin, but see that every one whom their Lord or Master is pleased to admit to their Table, have every thing which is fit for them, and that they change their Plates when need shall be; also that they observe the eyes of a Stranger what they want, and not force them still to want because they are silent, because it is not very modest for an Inferiour to speak aloud before their Betters; and it is more unfit they should want, since they have leave to eat and drink: they must wait diligently, and at a distance from the Table, not daring to lean on the Chaires for soiling them, or shewing Rudeness; for to lean on a Chair when they wait, is a particular favour shewn to any superiour Servant, as the Chief Gentleman, or the Waiting Woman when she rises from the Table; they must not hold the Plates before their mouths to be defiled with their Breath, nor touch them on the right side; when the Lord, Master, Lady or Mistress shew that favour to drink to any Inferiour, and do command them to fill for them to pledge them, it is not modesty for them to deny Strangers that favour, as commonly they do, but to fulfill their Commands, or else they dishonour the Favour.
When any Dish is taken off the Table, they must not set it down for Dogs to eat, nor eat it themselves by the way, but haste into the Kitchin with it to the Cook, that he may see what is to be set away, and what to be kept hot for Servants; when all is taken away, and Thanks given, they must help the Butler out with those things which belong to him, that he may not lose his Dinner.
They must be careful also to lay the Cloth for themselves, and see that nothing be wanting at the Table, and to call the rest of the Servants to Meals, whose Office was not to wait at the Table, then to sit down in a handsom manner, and to be courteous to every Stranger, especially the Servants of those Persons whom their Lord or Master hath a kindness for.
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The Queen-like Closet or Rich CabinetChapter VII: Front Matter (7)
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