Chapter XVIII: Part IV: The Supporting Stations of the Wall (2)

Some very fine sculptured stones, found in the station, are preserved on the spot. Amongst them is one which is figured on the adjoining page. A youth stands in a niche, a mural crown is on his head, a cornucopia in his left hand, and a patera, from which he pours out a libation on an altar, in his right; it is one of the finest carvings that is to be met with on the line of the Wall. From the grooves which are cut in the lower part of the stone, we may naturally conclude, that the figure has been formerly set in masonry, perhaps to adorn the approach to some temple. Gordon supposes the figure to be intended for Hadrian; Lysons thinks that it was meant for the ‘Genius of the Wall of Severus’—let us combine the two ideas, and suppose, that the figure is that of Hadrian, representing, as he had the best right to do, ‘the Genius of the Barrier.’

Reference will afterwards be made to the figures of the _Deæ Matres_ which have been found here.

[Sidenote: BLATUM BULGIUM.]

Netherby is supposed to be the CASTRA EXPLORATORUM of the second Antonine ‘Iter,’ which was garrisoned by a _numerus exploratorum_. Its situation is very suitable for an exploratory garrison; and its distance from Carlisle on the one hand, and Middleby on the other, nearly corresponds with the distance at which it is set down in the Itinerary both from LUGUVALLIUM and BLATUM BULGIUM.

[Sidenote: CAMP NEAR MIDDLEBY.]

_MIDDLEBY._—To the south of Middleby Kirk, in the county of Dumfries, is a camp which is called in the district Burns, or Birrens. It occupies a low and sheltered situation, but possesses, notwithstanding, considerable natural capabilities of defence. The water of Mein washes the earthy scar which forms its southern margin, and the Middleby burn, which joins the Mein at the south-east angle of the camp, runs parallel to its eastern rampart. It appears, from the plan given in Roy’s Military Antiquities, to have been protected, in addition to its stone walls, on three sides by four earthen ramparts, with intervening ditches; and on the north, which was at once by nature the weakest, and the quarter most exposed to the attack of the enemy, by not fewer than six. The northern ramparts remain in nearly their original completeness, but the overflowings of the Mein on the south, the construction of a road on the east, and the operations of agriculture on the west, have destroyed the ramparts on these sides. A _procestrium_, or out-work, protected by its own ramparts, appears to have been appended to the west side of the original camp; or, perhaps, to speak more correctly, the suburban buildings, which were situated in this quarter were embraced by an additional fortification. In so exposed a situation, such a precaution would be highly proper. The field in which the _procestrium_ was, has been brought into cultivation, and a great number of carved stones, which were found in it, taken to Hoddam Castle. The corners of the camp are, as is usually the case, rounded; the four gateways are clearly discernible. The interior area of the station measures three acres and three-quarters. On the south side of the station a large vault, arched with stone, was laid open more than a century ago. Popular credulity has magnified it into an underground passage, which extended all the way to Burnswark; the people in the neighbourhood aver that they have known persons go a considerable way along it.

The altars and sculptures found at this place are engraved and described, apparently with great accuracy, in Stuart’s Caledonia Romana. Amongst them is a stone tablet, bearing the words—

IMP. CAESARI TRAIAN. LEG. SECVND. AVG.

A piece of another, with the inscription—

LEG. XX. VICT.

The lamented author of this work says—

With the exception of a brass coin of Germanicus, and the inscription
containing the name of Hadrian, the greater part, if not all the
antiquities found at Birrens, may be ascribed perhaps to the third or
fourth century. The striking similarity of style and execution which
exists between them and the bulk of those discovered in the north of
England, of which the dates can be ascertained, is sufficient to stamp
them as the productions of a period subsequent to the reign of
Septimius Severus.—_Caledonia Romana_, 130.

It did not belong to the author’s subject; to inquire, how the fact of so few of the memorials of the mural line being of the age of Severus, comported with the popular idea that he built the Wall!

[Sidenote: BURNSWARK HILL.]

_BURNSWARK_, or Birrenswork.—A solitary hill, nearly three miles to the north-west of Middleby, rises to the height of nearly seven hundred and forty feet above the level of the sea. 'On its top lies an unequal plain, about nine hundred feet long, by four hundred and fifty of mean width—almost inaccessible on two of its sides, and by no means of easy attainment on any.'[132] From this elevated summit, the mountain ridges which are scattered over not fewer than six of the Scottish counties can be descried; looking eastward, the Nine-nicks of Thirlwall are in sight; southward, the familiar forms of Skiddaw, Saddleback, and Cross-fell rise into view; to the south-west, the craggy peaks of the Isle of Man arrest the attention in favourable states of the atmosphere; and, not unfrequently a long, black streak, on the distant verge of the ocean, indicates the position of Ireland. According to the former political divisions of the British empire, four kingdoms were thus to be seen from Burnswark-hill.

So commanding a position was not neglected by the ancient Britons. 'Around the area of the summit may still be traced the remains of a wall, composed of earth and stones, which seems to have been raised at every spot where the precipitous rock did not of itself afford sufficient protection.' Unhappily most of the stones have been hurled into the valley below, to form a long boundary fence. The enclosure is divided into two compartments of nearly equal size; one of them contains a circular range of stones, the remains apparently of an ancient cairn or watch-tower.

[Sidenote: CAMPS ON THE HILL.]

On two of the sides of Burnswark are the vestiges of Roman military works. The largest, which is on the southern slope, encloses an area of twelve acres. It has been originally encompassed by two ramparts, separated, as usual, by a deep trench; it had three gates on the upper, and apparently the same number on the under side, with a single one at each end. These gateways have been protected by circular mounds, thrown up before them, and fortified on the top. The pretorium, or general’s quarters, defended by an entrenchment of its own, was placed on the north-west angle of the camp. This circumstance would seem to warrant us in supposing, that, even in the stationary camps of the Wall, the pretorium was not uniformly placed in the upper part of the central area, where, according to the usual theory, we should expect to find it. All the entrenchments are of earth, and on the north side they are peculiarly bold.

The camp on the northern face of the hill has been constructed upon the same principle, but is in a less perfect condition. It is of the same length, but has only half its breadth. A covered way conducts from the one to the other. It is probable that both these camps have been the summer quarters, _castra æstiva_, of the garrison at Middleby. So important a position would not, however, at any period of the year be abandoned to the enemy; 'when not filled with the tents of its summer inhabitants, it is probable that a small garrison was maintained on its summit.'[133]

[Sidenote: CAMP AT PLUMPTON.]

_PLUMPTON._—Several camps south of the line, and at nearly equal distances from the Wall and from one another, added security to the fortification in the western district. Plumpton, or Old Penrith, called in the locality by the common name of Castlesteads, is a large station about thirteen miles south of Carlisle. The conjecture of Horsley ascribed to it, the name of BREMETENRACUM. The turnpike-road goes close past it, as did the ancient Roman way which led from LUGUVALLIUM to the south of Britain. The station presents the usual characteristics of a Roman camp. Though not much elevated, it is sufficiently raised to enjoy a most extensive view of the surrounding country. The western side is the strongest, being protected by the deep but narrow valley in which the river Peterel flows. Its ramparts are boldly marked, and the interior of the station is filled up to their level by a mass of prostrate habitations. The largest heap of ruins is on the north-east quarter; it may be the remains of the pretorium. The fosse is well defined on the north, south, and west sides. Enough of the eastern gate remains to shew that it has been a double portal. One stone of the threshold yet retains its position; it is worn by the feet of the ancient tenants of the city, and is circularly chafed by the action of the door in opening and shutting. Several very large stones, which have been used in the construction of the south gateway, lie near their original site—some of them yet exhibit the holes in which the pivots of the doors turned. The line of the street, which went from the eastern to the western gateway (_via principalis_), is discernible. On the outside of the south-east corner of the station, an arched chamber, or passage, was discovered a few years ago; but it is now filled up with rubbish.

[Sidenote: OLD PENRITH.]

Extensive remains of ancient foundations have been removed from the field on the east of the station; here, according to tradition, Old Penrith stood. There are also indications of suburban buildings to the west of the station. In the neighbourhood of the camp, and even at some distance from it, we meet, in the houses and stone fences, with such a number of the small neat stones which were usually employed in the construction of Roman dwellings, as to impress us with the idea, that the suburban buildings were very extensive in every direction.

In recently lowering a part of the turnpike-road, about a quarter of a mile south of the station, a well, cased with Roman masonry, was exposed. It is square, and is set diagonally to the road; it now copiously supplies the neighbouring farm-houses, which formerly were, in dry seasons, much inconvenienced by the scarcity of water.

Several sculptured, and inscribed stones, as well as coins, have been found here; but none of them are of a nature sufficiently interesting to detain us longer at Plumpton.

[Sidenote: OLD CARLISLE.]

_OLD CARLISLE_ is nearly two miles south of Wigton. The station is a large one; the ruins of its ramparts and interior buildings are boldly marked. A double ditch, with intervening vallum, seems to have surrounded the fort. The rivulet Wiza runs in a deep ravine immediately below the station, on its west side, and at a remoter distance, on its south also, thereby lending to it additional strength. The remains of suburban buildings may still be seen outside the walls, on the south, east, and west. Within the fort, a street may be distinctly traced from the north to the south gate, and another from the east towards the west. Near the centre of the station is a moist spot of ground where we may conceive a well to have been. Up to a recent period, the Roman roads leading from this station on the one hand, to Carlisle, and on the other to Maryport, were distinctly visible. Of the many important inscribed stones dug out of this station, that which is represented above is probably the most interesting. It was found in the year 1775, about two hundred yards east of the camp, and is now in the collection at Netherby.

I[OVI] O[PTIMO] M[AXIMO]
PRO SALVT[E]
IMP[ERATORIS] L. SEPTIM[II]
SEVERI AVG[VSTI] N[OSTRI]
EQVITES ALAE
AVG[VSTÆ] CVRANTE
EGNATIO VERE-
CVNDO PRA-
EF[ECTVS] POSVERVNT

To Jupiter, best and greatest.
For the safety
of the emperor Lucius Septimius
Severus, our Augustus;
The cavalry of the wing _styled_
the Augustan, under the direction of
Egnatius Vere-
cundus pre-
fect, placed _this_.

[Sidenote: CAMP NEAR MARYPORT.]

_MARYPORT._—On the cliffs overhanging the modern town of Maryport, are the manifest remains of a large Roman station. Its position gives it a commanding view of the Solway Firth and Irish Channel. The camp is a very large one, and the lines of its ramparts are very boldly developed. The eastern side, which is the only one that is not defended by a natural defile, or valley, was protected by a double ditch. There are some traces of masonry also near the gateway on this side, which render it probable that this entrance had been guarded by additional outworks. Some portions of this gateway remain; the sill of it is strongly marked by the action of chariot wheels. The ruts are about five inches deep, and five feet ten inches apart. Within the station is a well, encased with circular masonry. The interior of the station was excavated in 1766. The following account of the appearances which were then observed, is given in Lysons’ Cumberland:—

The workmen found the arch of the gate beat violently down and broken;
and on entering the great street, discovered evident marks of the
houses having been more than once burnt to the ground and rebuilt; an
event not unlikely to have happened on so exposed a frontier. The
streets had been paved with broad flag-stones, much worn by use,
particularly the steps into a vaulted room, supposed to have been a
temple. The houses had been roofed by Scotch slates, which, with the
pegs which fastened them, lay confusedly in the streets. Glass
vessels, and even mirrors were found; and coals had evidently been
used in the fire places. Foundations of buildings were round the fort
on all sides.

[Sidenote: HOSPITAL CAMP.]

In the grounds of Nether Hall, the seat of J. Pocklington Senhouse, esq., is a small entrenchment containing an area of about an acre and a half; it is in a low and sheltered position, and has probably been a retreat for invalids. Ancient roads have diverged from this station, leading to Bowness, Wigton, and Papcastle. On draining, lately, the fields on the line of road leading towards Old Carlisle, its pavement was met with, and to a great extent removed. The body of the road was composed of large granite boulders, some of them a quarter of a ton in weight; the interstices being filled up with smaller stones. On the south side of this way several slabs of stone were found, lying flat on the ground. They probably covered the ashes of the dead; fragments of red pottery and glass were found beneath them.

[Sidenote: ANTIQUITIES AT NETHER HALL.]

Very numerous and very important are the remains of antiquity which this station has yielded. With the exception of one fine altar, they are all carefully preserved in the house and grounds at Nether Hall. Many of the sculptured stones which have been found here, are more highly carved and more tastefully designed than is usual in the mural region. An altar to the genius of the place, which has been removed to Whitehaven Castle, and will be described in the last Part of this work, is characterized by Camden as ‘_ara pulcherrima affabrè artificio antiquo exculpta_,’ and a more graceful altar than that which is shewn in this cut, we have not met with in our mural peregrination. It is important, also, as proving the residence here of the '_prima cohors Hispanorum_.' In consequence, probably, of some service done to Hadrian this cohort seems, subsequently to the dedication of this altar, to have obtained the title of Ælia and the rank of _milliaria equitata_. The inscription may be read.—

I[OVI] O[PTIMO] M[AXIMO]
COH[ORS] I HIS[PANORVM]
CVI PRAE[EST]
MA[RCVS] MAENI-
VS AGRIP[PA]
TRIBV[NVS]
POS[VIT]

To Jupiter, the best and greatest.
This first cohort of the Spaniards,
Commanded by
Marcus Mæni-
us Agrippa
The Tribune,
Erected _this_.

A plain, square, but now partially fractured, pillar, inscribed, ROMAE AETERNAE ET FORTVNAE REDVCI, is reserved to form the concluding cut on the last page of this volume. It is a striking memorial at once of the aspiring pretensions and blighted prospects of the imperial city. A boar, the symbol of the twentieth legion, exhibiting more than the usual spirit, forms the vignette at the close of this Part; and the slab which bears testimony to the labours which the second, and twentieth, legion underwent in constructing the works of this station, is introduced at the close of the Part devoted to the discussion of the question ‘Who built the Wall?’ There is preserved in the piazza at Nether Hall, a carving in relief of a warrior on horseback trampling on a fallen enemy; the drawing is not strictly correct, but is very spirited, and the foreshortening of the horse’s head remarkably good. Besides these, there are several large and instructive altars and funereal slabs, as well as a tablet having a Greek inscription to this effect—Aulus Egnatius Pastor set up this to Æsculapius.

The minor antiquities consist of fragments of tiles, one of which bears the stamp of the first cohort of the Spaniards, a bronze pot bearing a marked resemblance to some which are in modern use, several earthenware vessels of large size, and quite perfect, implements of iron, and weapons of war. Amongst the coins which have been found in the station, are a great many forged denarii of Trajan and Hadrian. They are chiefly formed of lead, and are badly made; in some instances the metal has not reached the centre of the mould, and in scarcely any have the edges of the casting been properly dressed. Genuine coin must have been exceedingly scarce among the soldiery of the camp, and their credulity very great, to allow of the circulation of such base imitations.

[Sidenote: ANCIENT BARROW.]

A large artificial mound or barrow is to the left of the station. The inhabitants had an old tradition respecting it; they conceived it to be the sepulchre of a king. It was opened in 1763; near its centre ‘the pole and shank bones of an ox’ were found, but neither urns, burnt bones, nor coins, were discovered.

There is great uncertainty about the ancient name of this fort. Camden pronounced it to be OLENACUM, chiefly influenced by the resemblance in sound between it and the name of the neighbouring village of Ellenborough (Maryport is but of recent origin). This supposition gathers force from the fact that in ancient documents the river Ellen, which gives name to the place, is written ‘Alne’ and ‘Olne.’

_PAPCASTLE_ is about six miles south-east of Maryport. Numerous relics of antiquity have been found here, but little now remains to mark it out as the site of a Roman station except its extraordinary fertility. The town of Cockermouth, a mile to the south of the fort, is supposed to have risen from its ruins.

The forts which we have already examined may be thought sufficient to support the line of the Wall. The peculiar circumstances of its western extremity will perhaps justify us in reckoning Moresby, notwithstanding its distance from the Wall, among the out-stations of the Barrier. Not only does the Scottish coast, by projecting considerably beyond the western termination of the Wall, facilitate the invasion of the intra-mural portion of the island—but Ireland, the native land of the Scoto-Celts, is nigh at hand. It was necessary to prevent, not only the inhabitants of Caledonia landing on the coast of Cumberland, but the ‘Scots,’ also, who at that time ‘poured out of Ireland.’ Another sea-port station, south of Maryport, was therefore requisite.

[Sidenote: CAMP AT MORESBY.]

_MORESBY_, within a short distance of Whitehaven, still exhibits the remains of a Roman camp. It occupies a commanding position, enjoying especially an extensive marine prospect. Its western and southern ramparts are still good. The parish church and church-yard border upon its eastern wall. A sculptured stone, evidently chiselled by Roman hands, lies upon the spot, under the ruined chancel-arch of the old church. The important slab, of which the wood-cut gives a representation, was found in digging for the foundations of the present parish church. It is another of the interesting testimonies which we have of the energy and influence of the emperor Hadrian in those parts. Like the Milking-gap inscription, it gives the name of the emperor in the genitive case.

[Sidenote: FORT AT MALBRAY.]

A military way ran along the coast from this station, by way of Maryport, to the extremity of the Wall, at Bowness. By this means, the defence of the coast could be more effectually secured. As the distance between Maryport and Bowness is considerable, a small camp was planted at Malbray, which is about midway between the two places. The site of it is now a ploughed field.

We have now taken a hasty review of the stations on both sides of the Wall, which have supported that structure. Never, assuredly, was a dangerous frontier more securely guarded. So long as the stations were supplied with vigilant and well-disciplined troops, no foe, however well armed, could successfully attempt the passage of the Barrier of the Lower Isthmus.

[Sidenote: MURAL SCENES.]

Even the cursory view that we have taken of the subject, entitles us to say, that the boldness of the design was worthy of Rome in the zenith of her glory; and that the manner in which the project was carried out was becoming a nation with whom to conceive was to execute.

If we turn our attention for a moment from the work, to the object for which it was intended, regret, that man should use his ingenuity for the purposes of aggression and bloodshed, will take the place of admiration. Milton aptly describes the scenes which this region would often witness:—

He look’d, and saw wide territory spread
Before him, towns, and rural works between,
Cities of men with lofty gates and towers,
Concourse in arms, _fierce faces_ threatening war,
Giants of mighty bone, and bold emprise;
Part wield their arms ...
... now scattered lies
With carcases and arms th' ensanguined field
Deserted....
... Others from THE WALL defend
With dart and javelin....
On each hand slaughter and gigantic deeds.
Adam was all in tears.
_Paradise Lost_, xi. 638-674.

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Footnote 128:

An earthen encampment is cut in two by the Newcastle and Berwick
railway, in the second field south of the Netherton station. In the
space of three fields, lying east of this camp, three others may be
distinctly discerned, varying in size from forty to seventy yards
square. At Dove-cote, which is less than a mile west of Netherton
station, is a large field covered with the ruins of stone buildings.
Excavations in one portion at least of the ground yield large
quantities of glazed pottery. The remains are apparently mediæval, but
it is remarkable that no record of ruins so extensive is known to
exist.

Footnote 129:

Hutchinson says (A.D. 1778), the altar to Hercules is in the
possession of the duke of Northumberland; it is not now among those
preserved at Alnwick-castle. The altar to Astarte is in the collection
at Netherby.

Footnote 130:

The last time I was in the crypt, I was impressed with the idea that
some portions of it were actually of Roman workmanship; if so, St.
Wilfrid has adapted to his own uses the vaults which he found on the
spot. The crypt at Ripon, to which this bears a marked resemblance, is
now understood to be Roman.

Footnote 131:

Horsley, near the close of his work, was less opposed to this view
than at the beginning. In a note (_p._ 481), he says—‘I see no reason
to change my sentiments concerning any one of these stations; except
that I am more inclined to yield to the common opinion, that
BREMETENRACUM is at Brampton, and to think that OLENACUM and VIROSIDUM
are transposed; so that OLENACUM may be Ellenborough, on the river
Ellen, and VIROSIDUM, Old Carlisle, on the Wiza. And if the
military-way near the Wall, which goes by Watchcross, has led to
Brampton, as the country people suppose, this might still make it more
probable, that Brampton is BREMETENRACUM.’

Footnote 132:

Caledonia Romana, 131.

Footnote 133:

Caledonia Romana, 134.

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~The Roman Barrier of the
Lower Isthmus.~