Chapter II: The Waves of the Ocean

Waves and the Mode of their Formation.--Height and Velocity of
Storm-Waves, on the High Seas, according to the Calculations of
Scoresby, Arago, Sir James Ross, and Wilkes.--Their Height and Power
on Coasts.--Their Destructive Effects along the British Shore.--
Dunwich.--Reculver.--Shakspeare's Cliff. 24