Chapter XII: Part I: Paris to Marseilles (10)

By the road round the island are the remains of chapels of the 7th cent., or even earlier. Going from west to east there is, against the wall of the convent, a little to the west of the castle, the Chapel of St. Porcaire (restored), where, it is said, the saint was buried. At the western extremity of the island, within an old fort, is the Chapel of St. Sauveur. To the west of the landing-place, near the large gateway, are little better than the foundations of the Chapel of St. Pierre. Farther east, beside the Orphanage, is St. Justine, now a stable. The Orphanage contains about 25 boys. They are taught different trades. The franc charged for showing the castle goes to their support. On the eastern point of the island, beside a fort, is the most interesting chapel of all, the Chapel of the *Trinity, 35 ft. long by about 25 wide, placed from east to west. The great corner-stones of this small temple, by their size and solidity, are the main supports of the building, illustrating thereby the reason why in Scripture so much importance and honour are attached to them in edifices. The roof of the nave is semicircular, strengthened by three arches, the centre one springing from two round columns. The roofs of the three apsidal chapels are semispherical.

Cannes to Grasse, 12½ m. N. by rail, pop. 12,100. _Hotels:_ the G. H. International, 9 to 12 frs., a first-class house on the road to Le Bar. In the town, H. Muraour and the Poste, 8 to 10 frs. Their omnibuses await passengers. Those who wish to walk commence by the stair to the right of the station, and then the steep road on the other side of the highway. Grasse, a town of charming views, delicious water, and the best of air, makes an excellent and beneficial change from Cannes. The town, with its terraces and labyrinth of narrow, crooked, steep streets, is situated 1090 ft. above the sea, on the southern slope of Mt. Rocavignon, which rises almost perpendicularly 695 ft. above the town. To the N.E. of Rocavignon is the Marbrière, 2920 ft. above the sea. The short but stony road to the top of Rocavignon commences opposite the fountain used by the washerwomen. On the summit is a stony plateau, commanding extensive and exquisite views. Plain of Napoleon. A little way inland is a grassy plot, called the Plain of Napoleon, because here, on 2d March 1815, he breakfasted at the foot of the three tall cypresses, and then went on to St. Vallier. In the face of the large calcareous cliff a few yards beyond the trees is a cavern or “foux,” whence, after heavy rains, a large body of water issues in the form of a roaring cascade. The path which leads down into the beautiful valley below commences about 500 yards farther inland. It joins that very pretty road among olive trees, seen from the plateau, which, after passing the large white house, a hospice for the aged, enters Grasse by the powder-house, formerly the chapel of St. Sauveur, a little circular building with flat shallow buttresses, built in the early part of the 10th cent. On entering Grasse by this way, and just at the commencement of the promenade called the Cours, is the hospital. The large door gives access to the chapel, 161

in which are hung, at the west end, three pictures attributed to Rubens—the Crown of Thorns, the Elevation of the Cross, and the Crucifixion. The concierge uncovers them. Immediately below, and opposite the entrance into the public gardens, is the house of M. Malvillan, containing paintings by a native of Grasse, Jean Fragonard. Jean Horace Fragonard, who died at Paris in 1806. The best of them are five pictures, which were painted for Madame Dubarry, representing frolicsome scenes, young people playing games. At the foot of the Rue des Dominicains, in a large house with bulging iron grating, are some decorative paintings attributed to Flemish artists. These pictures are shown by courtesy. In the centre of the old town is the parish church, built in the 11th cent., but altered and repaired in the 17th. It contains several pictures, but the only good one is an Ascension of Mary, by Subleyras, behind the high altar. From the terrace at the east end of the church is one of the many beautiful views. Adjoining is the Hôtel de Ville, and attached to it is a great square tower of the 11th cent.

A stair at the head of the main street leads down to the principal square and market-place, with a fountain at one end and one of the sides arcaded. The best promenades are the Cours, the terrace of the Palais de Justice above it, and the Jardin des Plantes below it.

Perfumery.

PERFUMERY.

The standard industries of Grasse are the distilling of perfumes and the preserving of fruits. The flowers are cultivated on terraces resembling great nursery-beds. Of the perfumes, the most precious are the Otto of Roses and the Néroly. It requires 45 lbs. avoirdupois of rose leaves (petals) to make 1 gramme, or 15½ grains troy of the Otto of Roses, which costs from 2½ to 3 frs. the gramme; and 2¾ lbs. troy of the petals of orange flowers to make 1 gramme of Néroly, which costs 8 to 10 sous the gramme. The best Néroly, the Néroly Bigarrade, is made from the flowers of the bitter orange tree. It is used principally in the manufacture of Eau de Cologne, of which it constitutes the base. In colour it resembles sherry, and the odour is that of Eau de Cologne. The water that comes off in distilling Néroly forms the orange-water of the cafés. The Otto of Roses of Grasse is superior to that of Turkey. Extracts for scenting pocket-handkerchiefs are made from freshly-gathered flowers laid between two sheets of glass, held by their frames 4 inches apart, and piled one above the other, without pressing the flowers. On each side of the glass is a layer of lard ⅓ of an inch thick, which, in 12 to 24 hours, absorbs completely the odoriferous oil. When the flowers are abundant they are renewed every 12 hours, sometimes even every 6. The operation is repeated several times on the same lard with fresh flowers. Jonquilles are changed 30 times, the cassia and violet 60, the tuberose (a kind of hyacinth) and the jasmine, both 80 times. The lard is then melted in a large iron vessel, and mixed with spirits made from grain, which, combining with the volatile oil, rises to the top. The fluid is then filtered. 162

This is called the cold method. Orange and rose petals require the hot methods, either by the still or by the “bain-marie.” The distilling of the fragrant oil from the petals requires the most vigilant attention, and the maintenance of the same degree of heat. Rose and orange pomade are made by the bain-marie method by submerging a large iron pot full of lard in boiling water. When the lard is melted the petals are added, and after having remained there for 12 or 24 hours the mass is filtered to remove the now inodorous petals. The operation is repeated from 30 to 60 times, according to the required strength of the perfume. The red Turkey rose is the only rose used.

At the very foot of the Rue des Cordeliers is the confectionery of *Negre. He has showrooms and priced catalogues of his preserved fruits, which are made up in the candied (cristallisé) state, in the glazed-sugar (glacé) state, whole and in syrup (compotes), or as jams and jellies (confitures). At No. 22 Rue des Cordeliers is the perfumery of Bruno-Court, where purchases of the best material may be made from a franc upwards. Below the church is the perfumery of Warwick and Co., and in the B. Fragonard that of Pilar Frères, both of whom supply Atkinson of London with the raw material.

St. Cesaire. Cannes Canal. Callian.

_Grasse to St. Cesaire._—9 m. W. by a beautiful road. Carriage there and back, 20 frs. Diligence, 1½ fr. Time, 2 hours. This little village, pop. 350, is situated on an eminence above the Siagne, 1560 feet above the sea, or 470 feet higher than Grasse. In front of a large elm in the “Place” is a plain but clean inn, the Hôtel de la Siagne (pension from 6 to 8 frs.), where those who desire to fish in the river or ramble in the environs can live comfortably. From the end of the street, right from the inn, is a terrace, left hand, whence there is a view of the valley of the Siagne, with the Cannes canal on its eastern side. The path to the cave “Grotto de la Foux” goes by the upper side of this canal, and requires 1½ hour’s easy walking. The commencement of the Cannes Canal is about a half-hour’s walk farther up. No guide is necessary, unless it be desired to inspect the cave with lights. Guide, 5 frs. Like the more famous caves of Cahors and of Vaucluse (p. 64), this cavern or “foux,” at the base of a calcareous cliff, contains a great basin of limpid water, but no stalactites. The Cannes Canal is a narrow uncovered conduit 31 m. long, exposed to animal and vegetable impurities throughout nearly its entire course. Of greater interest is the commencement of the Roman aqueduct, which conveyed water from the Siagnole to Frejus (p. 146, and map, p. 129) by a channel covered with bricks, and stones of the size of bricks, through the Roquotaillado tunnel, 164 ft. long, 27 wide, and 82 high, in all probability originally a cave, but adapted by the Roman engineers to their requirements. It is most easily visited from Montauroux, on the hill opposite, 3 m. distant by a bridle-path, _Inn:_ Bourgarenne, where pass the night. From this village the tunnel is about 9 m. distant by an excellent carriage-road. 1½ m. from Montauroux is the village Callian, _Inn:_ Castel, 1200 ft., supplied with water by the Roman aqueduct.

opp. 163 THE DURANCE, THE VAR, the col di tenda, san remo _For continuation northwards see map, page 327._ _For continuation eastwards see map, page 211._

see caption _For continuation westwards see map, page 66._ _For continuation southwards see map, page 123._

Nearly 2 hours’ walk from the Cannes Canal up the Siagne, and 163

situated at a considerable elevation, is the stalactite cave of Mons. Those who have already seen such caves will find in this one nothing new nor striking. To visit it not only is a guide necessary, but the keeper of the cave at Mons must be advised beforehand, that he may be at the mouth of the cave with the key. It is much the better plan to return from the commencement of the Cannes Canal to St. Cesaire, and drive back to Grasse. The olives of St. Cesaire are considered among the best flavoured of the Riviera.

Grasse by Coach to Cagnes Station.

Grasse to the railway station of Cagnes by the Pont du Loup and Vence, 21 m. By omnibus, 3 frs. By private carriage, 30 frs. This drive is generally taken in two parts—Grasse to the Pont du Loup; then from the Pont du Loup to Vence or Cagnes.

Pont du Loup. Tourette.

_Grasse to the Pont du Loup by Le Bar_, 7½ m. N.E. Carriage with two horses there and back, 15 frs. Omnibus to Le Bar 3 times daily, 1 fr. Distance, 5½ m. N.E.; whence it is a pleasant walk of 2 m. up the valley of the Loup to the inn and Pont du Loup, at the mouth of the Gorge du Loup. From the Pont 2½ hours of fatiguing walking up the ravine of the Loup brings the traveller to the falls of the Loup, which requires a good deal of rain to make them imposing. The whole way from Grasse to Vence is by a beautiful Corniche road, nearly on the same level (1090 ft.) throughout its entire course, disclosing at every turn exquisite views towards the sea. The Pont du Loup, with its little cluster of houses and orange-gardens, is at the top of a long narrow valley, just at the point where the Loup rushes forth from a rocky gorge. On the top of a plateau, about 500 ft. over the Pont du Loup, is the village of Gourdon. From the terrace adjoining the church of Le Bar there is an excellent view of Gourdon, the valley of the Loup, and of the carriage-road on both sides of it. Those who visit the Pont du Loup generally content themselves with a ramble in the gorge, and then, after having taken some refreshments, either return to Grasse or go on to the railway station of Vence-Cagnes (see p. 169), 13½ m. farther, or 21 m. from Grasse. The drive from Grasse to Vence-Cagnes station in a private carriage costs 30 frs. The very same road is traversed by the omnibus from Grasse to Vence, 15 m. eastward. Fare, 2 frs. Time, 4 hours. A seat should be taken in the “Imperial.” Next day, at one, start from Vence to Cagnes railway station by another omnibus. Fare, 1 fr. Time, 1 hour. Distance, 6 m. The road from the Pont to Vence continues to follow the course of the Loup till within a few miles of the village of Tourette, pop. 980, at the foot of Le Puy de Tourette, 4158 ft. above the sea, where the omnibus halts.

Vence.

Vence, 1100 ft. above the sea, pop. 2800. _Inn:_ Lion d’Or, pension 9 frs. Picturesquely situated on a hill in the midst of mountains clothed with olive trees and studded with houses standing singly and in clusters. This, the ancient Vintium, has still large portions of its 164

old walls and ramparts, with massive square towers (11th cent.) next the gates. At the northern entrance is the ancient palace of the Lords of Vence, with a beautiful tower, built in the 15th cent., in the style of the palaces of Florence, only without a court, for which there was no space. In front is a fine old ash tree, sadly mutilated.

The bishopric of Vence, founded in 374, was afterwards united to that of Frejus. In the centre of the town is the cathedral, 110 ft. long, 68 ft. wide, and about 70 high, inside measure. Two aisles with massive piers and semicircular arches (slightly stilted) are on each side of the nave. Above is a triforium 15 ft. wide. Roof waggon-vaulted. The choir, containing 50 stalls in dark carved oak, is in a gallery opposite the altar, in the position usually occupied by the organ. At the N.E. corner of the church is an ancient and beautiful baptismal font, of which, unfortunately, a large piece of the pedestal is sunk into the ground. The chancel was formerly a Roman temple. The column now in the square behind the church, and the other over a well at the west end, stood formerly at the entrance into the temple. On the table of the second altar right is part of a sculptured stone which formerly adorned this temple. In the next chapel is the tomb of St. Lambert, many years Bishop of Vence, with Latin inscription on table of altar. Under the chancel is the vault in which the bishops were buried, while the vault of the Lords of Vence was under the nave. The present “Place” behind the chancel was the public cemetery. Several stones with inscriptions are on the walls. One slab bears an eagle in relief, and under it is a still larger stone sculptured in a diaper pattern, with a stork and crowing cocks worked into the design. The style resembles that of the old carved door in the first chapel right of altar, all probably of the 14th or 15th cent.

Roche-Blanche. Rocher-Noir.

To the N. of Vence is a row of four calcareous mountain cliffs, extending eastward to the Var, and each about 2000 ft. above the sea. The most prominent is the mighty cliff above Vence called the Roche-Blanche, commanding a superb view. On the summit are the remains of a walled village and castle, and less than half-way up the ruins of a castle of the Knight-Templars. The road up to the summit is by the first narrow path beyond the castle, ascending through beds of wild thyme and bushes of the prickly broom. The next hill is the Rocher-Noir, having on its eastern side, right above the bed of the Cagnes, a “foux,” an immense cave called the Riou, containing a large basin of water, whence flows a copious stream. It is 3½ m. from Vence. The next cliff rises over St. Jeannet, and bears its name. The most easterly is La Gaude, with vineyards producing one of the better wines of Provence, drank as vin ordinaire during the first year, when still sweet and unripe, but of good body and agreeable in the fifth and sixth years, when it costs 1½ to 2 frs. the litre bottle. Vence is famous for double violets. They are cultivated in hollows between furrows, and are sold to the makers of perfumes at the rate of 3s. 8d. the pound. A woman will gather 4 kilogrammes (8 lbs. 13 oz.) in a day, for which she is paid at the rate of 2½d. the kilo.

165

Cagnes.

The road from Vence to the Cagnes railway station descends the whole way, passing at some distance the village of St. Paul, pop. 700, with part of its old walls, and below it the village of La Colle, pop. 1500. The coach drives through the low or modern town of Cagnes. _Inn:_ Savournin, not comfortable during the mosquito season. The real town occupies, as usual, a hill, on the summit of which is a castle built by the Grimaldi, a polygonal tower bought by the present owner at an auction; who has restored the painting by Carloni on the ceiling of the Salle Dorée, representing the Flight of Phaeton, and has also added a small picture gallery. A little way down from the castle are the ruins of the small abbey church of St. Veran, 6th cent. The chancel is still in good preservation. From Cagnes the views are not equal to those from Vence. (For the Vence-Cagnes station, see p. 169.)

St. Vallier.

ST. VALLIER.

Grasse to Digne, 63 m. north.—By the courrier 16 frs., changing coach at Castellane. Fare to St. Vallier, 2½ frs., Escragnolles 4 frs., Castellane 8½ frs., Barrème 11½ frs., and Digne 16 frs. By private coach from Grasse, with two horses, 100 frs. Dining first day at Escragnolles, and passing the night at Castellane. Next day breakfasting at Barrème, and then driving down to Digne (see map, p. 165).

The road between Grasse and Digne is broad, well constructed, and rises at an angle from 5 to 7 in the 100. From Grasse to St. Vallier (2350 ft. above the sea, or 1260 ft. above Grasse, and 6½ m. distant, population 536) the ascent is continuous, disclosing all the way grand views of Cannes, the sea, and the Estérel and the Tanneron mountains. The courrier and private carriages halt generally a few minutes in the “Place,” near the column with a marble bust of Napoleon I., indicating the spot where he reposed “2 Mars 1815.” The Hôtel du Nord is about 100 yards from this. The house is pretty comfortable, and charges per day from 8 to 9 frs. A carriage from this hotel, towards the Ponte-à-Dieu, as far as it can go, 3½ m., costs 5 frs. The remainder can be walked in about half an hour. A carriage from Grasse to St. Vallier, and towards the Pont-à-Dieu and back, 20 frs. The Pont-à-Dieu is a calcareous rock which spans the Siagne in the form of a bridge, like the “Pont” across the Ardèche.

From St. Vallier the road makes very circuitous windings on the steep sides of the mountains, ascending nearly all the way to Escragnolles, a hamlet, pop. 320, consisting of a few houses and a small roadside inn, with clean but hard beds, and plain and scanty fare, situated 3282 ft. above the sea, or 2192 ft. above and 18 m. north from Grasse. A little before arriving at Escragnolles is seen, in a deep valley, one of the principal sources of the river Siagne. The views from Escragnolles and Castellane exhibit lofty, wild, and partially-wooded mountains, with fields of wheat on laboriously-terraced ground.

Castellane. Taulanne. Barrème.

19 m. N.W. from Escragnolles, or 37¼ from Grasse, is Castellane, 2370 ft. above the sea. Pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Levant; Commerce. A village of crooked streets on the Verdon, crossed by a bridge of one 166

arch. A narrow path leads to the top of the lofty cliff on which is the chapel of Notre Dame, rebuilt in 1703, commanding a most extensive prospect. Napoleon I. descended into Italy by the road on the left bank of the river. Those in private carriages generally spend the night here. A small coach runs between Castellane and Digne, which, although not very comfortable, is much better than the courrier in bad weather. 18 m. W. from Castellane by a mountain-road is Moustiers Sainte Marie (see p. 167). From Castellane the road by a series of zigzags reaches the top of the Col St. Pierre, 3600 ft., and then descends to Taulanne, 7 m. N.W. from Castellane. From Taulanne the road descends 5 m. S., chiefly through a picturesque ravine, to Senez, pop. 620, among wild barren mountains, at the foot of Mont La Combe, on the river Asse. The hamlet has a poor inn, and a cathedral built during 1130 to 1242.

44¼ m. N.W. from Grasse, and 18¾ m. S. from Digne, is Barrème, pop. 1100, on the confluence of the Clumane with the Asse. Breakfast is taken here, and the diligence changes horses. Cloth-mills and trade in dried fruits, especially prunes. In the neighbourhood is a saline spring. The road from Barrème to Digne descends by a ridge between the valleys of the Asse and the Clumane.

Digne.

Digne, pop. 8000, 2000 ft. above the sea, 14 m. E. by loop-line from the station St. Auban on the main line. St. Auban is 80½ m. N. from Marseilles, 62¼ m. N. from Aix, and 20½ m. N. from Manosque. It is 109½ m. S. from Grenoble; 45½ m. S. from Aspres, the terminus of the road from Die; 41 m. S. from Veynes, whence commences the loop-line to Gap; and 31¾ m. S. from Serre, the terminus of the road from Nyons (see map of Rhône and Savoy). _Hotels:_ Boyer; Remusat, both in the Boulevard Gassendi, near the statue of Pierre Gassendi (1592-1655), one of the most eminent philosophers of France. This, the ancient Dinia, the capital of the Avantici, is situated chiefly on hilly ground rising from the Bléonne and the Eaux-Chaudes. On the highest part is the cathedral, and on the plain up the river, near the seminary, the much more interesting church of Notre Dame, 12th cent., numbered among the historic monuments of France. 1¼ m. up the Eaux-Chaudes, at the foot of Mt. St. Pancras, are sulphurous springs, temp. 115° Fahr., efficacious in the cure of wounds and rheumatism. Bath, 2 frs. From Digne Napoleon issued his proclamation of March 1815. Digne makes a good resting-place and good headquarters. Both of the hotels are comfortable and moderate, 8 to 10 frs. per day, and both supply carriages at so much per day (see map, p. 165).

Riez. Barjols.

Among the many diligences that start from Digne, the most important is to Riez, 26 m. S.W., fare 4 frs., time 4½ hrs., a great diligence centre. Riez, pop. 3000, on the Colostre, at the foot of Mont St. Maxime. _Inn:_ H. des Alpes, whence start coaches daily for Manosque, 22 m. W., by Allemagne, 5 m.; St. Martin, 8 m.; and to Gréoulx (see p. 167), 12½ m. S.W. from Riez, and 9½ m. E. from Manosque, fare 4 frs. For Moustiers Sainte Marie (see p. 167), 9 m. E., 167

by Roumoulles, fare 2 frs. For Montmelian, 18 m. S., by Quinson. Travellers on their way to Draguignan spend the night at Montmelian, H. Sicard, and proceed next morning to Aups, 9½ m. E., _Inn:_ H. du Cours, and thence to Draguignan. From Montmelian a coach runs to Barjols, _Inn:_ H. Pont d’Or, 9½ m. S., whence other coaches run to Brignoles (see p. 142). For Valensole, 7½ m. W., whence to Volx railway station, other 7 m. W. From Volx coach to Digne, 25 m. N., by Puymoisson, 3¾ m. N.; Le Begude, 8 m.; Estoublon, 11¾ m.; Mezèl on the Asse, _Inn:_ H. du Cours, 15¾ m.; and Châteauredon, 7½ m. S. from Digne. All these roads traverse sometimes deep valleys and at other times extend across wide elevated tablelands. Down in the valleys are olive trees, in the higher regions quinces, plums, walnuts, and cherries (see map, p. 165).

Riez, the Colonia Julia-Augusta of the Romans, is still partly surrounded by its old fortifications, of which the highest of the towers has been converted into a belfry. Up the main street, through either of the gateways, are houses with sculptured doors and transomed windows which tell of better days. Near the two inns, but on the other side of the river, is La Rotonde, a temple, square externally, enclosing a peristyle of 8 monolith granite Corinthian columns, bearing an elongated octagonal dome. The diameter of the circle is about 23 ft. Near it are the remains of a colonnade consisting of 4 composite monolith granite columns. On the top of Mont St. Maxime is the chapel St. Maxime, 10th cent., restored and altered in 1857. It is 17 yds. long and 10 wide, outside measure. On each side of the chancel are three Corinthian columns similar to those in the round chapel. At the S.W. corner is a short square tower with a spire. From the brow of the eminence, where there is a statue of Mary, there is an excellent view of the dingy town and of the pleasing valley of the Colostre.

Moustiers Ste. Marie.

A very pleasant drive of 9½ m. E., fare 2 frs., is to the curious village of Moustiers Ste. Marie by the courrier, starting at 2 and returning at 4. _Inn:_ H. du Mouton Couronné. The village consists of poor dingy houses, partly in a narrow gully and partly on the slopes, at the base of vertical calcareous sandstone cliffs, rising to the height of from 500 to 1000 ft. Between two opposite points of these precipices is a chain 745 ft. long, from which was suspended a gilt iron star which fell in 1878. Up the cliffs, by the stair of the “Via Crucis,” is the chapel of Notre Dame, almost immediately below the chain. Several caves are in the neighbourhood. Lower down is the parish church of the 10th and 13th cents. From the S. side rises a square belfry in three diminishing stages. Between Moustiers and Riez is Roumoulles, with the ruins of a castle. 18 m. E. from Moustiers is Castellane, but no public coach runs between them.

Gréoulx. Baths.

12½ m. W. from Riez, and 9½ m. E. from Manosque, is Gréoulx, pop. 1400, a dirty village on a hill rising from the Verdon. On the top are the gaunt ruins of a castle built by the Knight-Templars. Less than ½ m. from the village is the hotel and the bathing establishment. The rooms cost from 2 to 5 frs. Coffee in the morning, 60 cents. 168

Breakfast and dinner, 7 frs. Service, ½ fr. Or the lowest price per day, 10 frs., which is dear considering the quality of the house and furniture. Bath, 2 frs. Cure lasts 25 days. The establishment is 1150 ft. above the sea. The mineral water, of which there is a most abundant supply, is limpid and unctuous, and tastes like slightly salt new milk. Temp. 95° to 100° Fahr. The principal ingredient is the chloride of soda, and, in less quantities, the chloride of magnesia, the carbonate of lime, and the sulphate of lime and soda. The water is also rich in organic substances, such as baregine and glairine along with other sulphurous compounds, which develop themselves rapidly when the water is exposed to the action of the air. This organic matter is used in the mud-baths for the cure of sores and tumours. The baths are partially sunk into the floor, and are easily entered. The flow of water into and out of them is constant. Coaches daily from Gréoulx to Manosque, Mirabeau, and Riez (map, p. 165).

Manosque.

Manosque, pop. 6200, on the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble, 22 m. north from Pertuis, 41½ m. from Aix, 48½ m. from Gardanne, and 59½ m. from Marseilles. 4½ m. south from Volx, 20½ m. from St. Auban, 31 m. from Sisteron, 61½ m. from Veynes, 66 m. from Aspres, and 130½ m. from Grenoble (see map of Rhône and Savoy).

_Hotels:_ Pascal; Eymon, commanding an extensive view of the surrounding mountains; near it the G. H. de Versailles; and the Poste. Manosque is situated on an eminence rising from the plain of the Durance, nearly surrounded by hills covered with vineyards and olive trees. Portions of the town walls and towers still remain, and the eastern and western gateways have been repaired and restored. Entering the town by the gate close to the hotels, we ascend the narrow and badly-paved principal street to the church of St. Sauveur, easily recognised by the square belfry attached to the S.E. end. Within the main entrance are two large caryatides. The windows of the façade are circular, the others small and round-headed with modern glass. On each side of the nave are semicircular arches of a great span; the chancel is extremely shallow, the roof 4 partite, and the floor considerably lower than the street. The narrow lane opposite the corner of the façade leads to the principal “Place,” where there is a fountain, and whence there is a good view. Higher up the principal street is Notre Dame, in exactly the same style as St. Sauveur. The table or altar in the chapel to the left of the high altar is formed of a marble sarcophagus, 5th cent., with figures, in bold relief, of the apostles, and in the centre a crucifixion. Above is a black image of Mary and child, supposed to date from the 6th cent. In the Hôtel de Ville is a silver bust by Puget of Gérard Jung, the founder of the order of the Hospitallers, a religious community whose office was to relieve the stranger, the poor, and the sick. In the neighbourhood are deposits of gypsum and lignite. Coach daily to Riez, 5 hrs., 22 m. E.; to the baths of Gréoulx, in the same direction; to Apt (see index), 26 m. W., by Reillane 15½ m., and Céreste 20½ m. W. Volx station is the intended terminus of the rail from Apt.

169

Vallauris. Antibes.

MARSEILLES MENTON 124 31 GOLF JOUAN or VALLAURIS. A few yards straight up from the station is a short column, which marks the spot where Napoleon bivouacked after his arrival from Elba on March 1, 1815. A very pleasant road, lined with villas, connects this small port with Cannes. Opposite station are pottery showrooms.

MARSEILLES MENTON 127 28 ANTIBES, pop. 6000. _Hotels:_ Escouffier, Aigles d’Or. A fortified port founded by the Greeks, but, with the exception of two old towers, without any mark of antiquity. The streets are lined with tolerable houses. In the square the inhabitants have erected a monument to their valour. Those wishing a bird’s-eye view of the town should ascend the tower beside the church. The bellman’s house is close by. The wine of Antibes is of superior quality (see p. 154). From Antibes station omnibus to Biot, pop. 1400.

MARSEILLES MENTON 132 23 VENCE-CAGNES. At this station coaches await passengers for Cagnes, pop. 3000, about 1 mile distant. It is built on the slope of a hill, and contains the old mansion of the Grimaldi. Six miles northwards by the same road is Vence, pop. 3000, with an old cathedral and several interesting antiquities. It is famous for figs, and flowers for perfumery. One mile distant is St. Martin, with a splendid view from the terrace, and most picturesque environs. Between Vence-Cagnes and Nice runs a diligence (see p. 165).

MARSEILLES MENTON 136 19 VAR. This station is on the left or Nice side of the river Var, at the eastern end of the viaduct over the mouth of the river. ¾ m. N.W. from the station by the road to St. Martin are the Nice nurseries or pépinières, extensive, but not well kept. About 2 m. N.E. from the station, up on the hill, is the Caucade cemetery, in three stages. The first is used by the French, the next by the English, and the highest by the Russians. The last two contain many beautiful marble monuments.

At the mouth of the Var is the racecourse. The races take place in January.

Nice.

opp. 171 plan of Nice

NICE

is 140 m. N.E. from Marseilles, 95½ m. N.E. from Toulon, 95¼ m. N.E. from Hyères, 39 m. N.E. from St. Raphael, and 19¼ m. N.E. from Cannes. It is 9½ m. W. from Monaco, 15 m. S.W. from Menton, 23½ m. S.W. from Bordighera, and 30 m. S.W. from San Remo (see railway map, fly-leaf). Situated on the Bay des Anges and on the embouchure of the Paillon, mostly covered over, pop. 66,300.

170

Nice: Hotels and Pensions.

Hotels and Pensions on the Promenade des Anglais, taking them in the order of east to west. The Hôtel des Anglais, with one side to the “Jardin Public.” Next it is the Cercle (club) de la Méditerranée; and opposite it, projecting into the sea, a casino. On the other side of the cercle is the H. Luxembourg. Then follow the Pension Rivoir, 13 to 18 frs.; the H. Méditerranée, H. Westminster, and the H. West End, all first-class houses charging from 15 to 25 frs. per day.

The following are at the western end of the Promenade, and, as they have considerable gardens in front, the inmates do not hear the noise of the sea so much. The H. de l’Elysée, No. 59; the Pension *Anglaise, 8 to 11 frs., No. 77; the H. Continental, 10 to 15 frs. On the Boulevard du Midi, the eastern prolongation of the Promenade des Anglais, are the Beau Rivage; the H. des Princes, 12 to 15 frs.; and on the Quai des Pouchettes, the *H. et P. Suisse, 8½ to 12 frs.

Around the “Jardin Public” are the first-class houses, the Angleterre and the Bretagne. On the Quai Massena the H. de France; while in the Place Massena are the best cafés and restaurants, large cab-stands, and the terminus of the trams. Over the river near the Place Massena is the Casino Municipal, fronting the Quai St. Jean Baptiste, on which are the hotels Cosmopolitain; the Paix; and the Grand Hotel, fronting the garden in the Square Massena. These hotels are first-class, and charge from 10 to 20 frs. Higher up is a second-class house, frequented chiefly by French, the H. Ferrand, 8 to 10 frs.

On and near the Avenue de la Gare are some excellent hotels and pensions. Taking them in the order of the Place Massena towards the railway station we have, under the arches, the hotels Meublés, Deux Mondes, and opposite the Univers. Then follow the hotels Ambassadeurs with garden, Iles Britanniques, Prince of Wales, all the three from 10 to 20 frs. Opposite, at No. 42, is the H. and R. Duval, 9 to 12 frs. At the top of the R. de la Gare, the H. National, 9 to 12 frs., and the Hotel des Alpes.

In the streets at right angles to the R. de la Gare near the H. Iles Britanniques are the Russian, German, English, and Scotch churches, and some comfortable hotels and pensions, mostly with gardens. The best of the hotels are the *Paradis and the *Louvre, in the Boul. Longchamp, near the Scotch Church. At the western end of the Boul. Longchamp, the H. et P. des Palmiers, and the H. Splendide, all from 10 to 20 frs. Near the Splendide is the P. Java, 9 to 11 frs.

Behind the Scotch Church are the P. Internationale and the H. et 171

P. de Genève. Next the Russian Church is the P. Helvétique. Near it the H. Royal; the H. et P. Mignon and the P. *Millet, entered from R. St. Etienne, 8 to 12 frs.

At W. end of the R. de la Paix the H. Raissan, 10 to 12 frs.; near it the Russie and the Beau Site, both quiet houses with gardens.

Opposite the station the H. et P. du Midi, 9 to 11 frs. Farther down the H. et P. Interlaken, 8 to 11 frs. with wine.

From the E. side of the Avenue de la Gare parallel streets extend to the Boulevard Carabacel. In the first of these, the Rue Carnieri, is the Theatre Français. In the Rue Pastorelli the Pension St. Etienne and the H. Négociants, 8 to 12 frs. In the broad B. Dubouchage are the first-class houses—the H. Littoral; *Empereurs; *Albion. Behind the Albion, in the Rue Alberti, the H. et P. d’Orient. The large building in the B. Dubouchage is the Bourse. Near it is the American Episcopal Church. In the Avenue Beaulieu are the H. Central and the G. H. *Rubion.

The hotels, pensions, and villas at the end of the B. Dubouchage, and about the B. Carabacel, are frequented by delicate people, who sun themselves in the gardens and boulevards of this quarter. At the Carabacel end of the B. Dubouchage are the first-class houses—the H. Hollande; H. *Windsor; and opposite, the H. *Julien. On an eminence in a garden off the B. Carabacel is the H. *Nice. Then follow, on the B. Carabacel, the H. Bristol, P. Londres, H. de Paris, and houses with furnished apartments. In this quarter is the Carabacel Episcopal Church, and near it the Hôtel Carabacel.

On the way up to Cimiès, the G. H. Windsor. On Cimiès Hill, near the Convent of St. Barthélemy, is the H. et P. *Barthélemy, on the road to the Val Obscur, and near many pleasant rambles. On the Cimiès Hill, on opposite sides of the Amphitheatre, are the H. et P. Cimiès, and the Pension Anglaise, in the three houses from 9 to 12 frs. They are about 2 m. from Nice, and 430 ft. above it. The tram from the Place Massena has its terminus near the P. Barthélemy. The H. Cimiès has its own omnibus. The town omnibus runs within a short distance of the P. Anglaise.

In the street behind the Promenade des Anglais, the R. de France, and its continuation the R. Massena, are hotels and pensions, with moderate prices. Commencing at west end and going eastward—at No. 100, in garden, the P. Torelli. On the hill behind the H. de Rome, 12 frs. At No. 121 is the H. de l’Elysée, with front to the Promenade des Anglais. At No. 46 the P. *Metropole, 8 to 10 frs.; 172

and opposite, the H. du Pavillon, with front to the Promenade des Anglais. At No. 34 the P. Lampiano, 9 to 11 frs. At No. 30 R. Massena the H. St. André, 8 frs. In the Place Massena the H. et R. Helder, 18 frs. For commercial gentlemen the best is the H. des Étrangers, R. Pont Neuf, 9 to 10 frs.

Those requiring to study economy will, by a little search through the private pensions, find very comfortable and moderately-priced lodgings. In the meantime they may alight at any of the following houses, where they can arrange at the prices given:—H. du Midi, opp. station, 8 to 11 frs., 3 meals, wine extra. At the head of the Avenue de la Gare the H. des Alpes and the H. National, 9 to 12 frs. At 17 B. Carabacel H. et P. de Londres, 8 to 10 frs. with wine. In the Rue de France the P. *Metropole, 8 to 10 frs. At the west end of the Promenade des Anglais the Pension Anglaise, 8 to 10 frs. In the Rue Massena the H. St. André, 8 frs., including everything. In the R. Gioffredo the H. and R. Montesquieu, 8 to 9 frs.

Nice: Cafés. Banks.

_Cafés._—The best in the Place Massena. _Restaurants._—The *London House, Pl. du Jardin Public. Restaurant *Française, 3 Av. de la Gare, and at No. 11 Rest. d’Europe. _Clubs or Cercles._—The Cercle de la Méditerranée in the Prom. des Anglais. Cercle Massena, Quai St. Jean.

_Banks._—The Banque de France, 6 Quai du Midi. The best for all kinds of banking business and money changing is the “Credit Lyonnais,” 15 Avenue de la Gare. Other banks—the Banque de Nice, 6 P. Massena; Lacroix et Roissard, 2 P. Massena; Viterbo, 13 Avenue de la Gare.

_House Agents._—John Arthur and Co., 1 Place Jardin Public; C. Jougla, 55 R. Gioffredo; Salvi and Co., 2 R. du Temple.

_Post Office_, 20 Rue St. François de Paul, behind the Quai du Midi. Most of the clocks have two minute-hands, one for railway or Paris time, the other for Nice time. The railway time is 20 minutes behind the Nice time. In the same street is the excellent public library, with 45,000 volumes. Open from 10 to 3 and 7 to 10 p.m. It contains a few antiquities, some Roman milestones, a collection of medals, and a bust of Caterina Segurana. The Museum of Natural History is in No. 6 Place Garibaldi. Observatory on the top of Mont Gros, 1201 ft. above the sea.

_Booksellers._—Galignani, 15 Quai Massena, with well-supplied reading-room; Barbery, Place du Jardin Public; Visconti, 2 Rue du Cours. Cook’s office adjoins Galignani’s. Gaze’s is at No. 13, and Caygill’s No. 15 Avenue de la Gare.

_Druggists._—Of these there are excellent English establishments in the principal streets.

173

_Confectioneries and Perfumeries._—Of the confections the _specialité_ of Nice is candied Parma violets, sold in little round boxes weighing 100 grammes, or 3½ oz., for 5 frs. the box. The most expensive of the glazed fruits are pine-apple, 10 frs. the kilogramme (2 lbs. 3¼ oz.), strawberries, 10 frs., and apricots, without the stones, 8 frs. All the others cost either 5 or 6 frs. the kilo. The best shops are— *Caëtan Féa, 4 Avenue de la Gare; Guitton and Rudel, 23 same street; and *Escoffier, in the Place Massena. Rimmel’s garden and perfume distillery are near the slaughter-house, on the left bank of the Paillon.

Nice: Churches. Conveyances.

_Churches._—Temple Évangélique or Vaudois in the Rue Gioffredo; Russian Memorial Chapel, N.W. from the station; Russian Church, Rue Longchamp; German Church, Rue Adelaide; American Church, Rue Carabacel. Trinity Church, Rue de France; St. Michael’s, Rue St. Michel; Carabacel Episcopal Church, at the east end of the Rue Notre Dame. Scotch Church, in the Rues St. Etienne and Adelaide.

Steamers to Marseilles, Genoa, Leghorn, and Corsica once weekly.

_Coach hire._—A carriage with coachman and 2 horses, 750 frs. per month. Per day, 30 frs. There are many excellent livery stables, where carriages and riding horses can be had per day or per month.

_Cabs._—Drivers have to produce their tariffs. Cab with 1 horse and seat for 2, the course 75 c.; seats for 4, 1 fr. The hour, seat for 2, 2½ frs.; seats for 4, 3 frs. Cabs with 2 horses, the course 1½ fr.; the hour, 3½ frs.

To or from the station. Cab with seat for 2, 1 fr.; with seats for 4, 1½ fr. Cab with 2 horses, 1 fr. 15 sous. Each article on top of cab 25 c., and 25 c. for each stoppage. It is better, if not sure of a hotel, to engage the cab by the hour.

All the _tram cars_ start from the Place Massena.

_Diligences._—From the office, No. 34 Boulevard du Pont Neuf, start daily:—Coach to St. Martin Lantosque, 3117 ft. above the sea, and 37 m. N. from Nice. Fare 6 frs., time 10 hrs. (see p. 180). Coach to Puget-Théniers, 1476 ft. above the sea, and 42 m. N.W. from Nice. Fare 2½ frs., time 9 hrs. (see p. 182). To St. Sauveur, 40½ m. N. (p. 182). Omnibus twice daily during the winter season to Monte Carlo, by the low Corniche road. From the office, Place St. François, start:—Coach to Cuneo, 80 m. N., by Tenda and the Col di Tenda tunnel. Fare 16 frs., time 18 hrs. Coach to Tenda alone, 2680 ft. above the sea, and 51 m. N. from Nice. Fare 9 frs., time 11 hrs. (see p. 182). From Hôtel Chapeau Rouge, Quai St. Jean Baptiste, coach to Levens, 1916 ft. above the sea, and 15 m. N. from Nice. Fare 3 frs., time 4 hrs. From the Cloche d’Or, Rue de l’Aqueduct, 174

coach to Contes, fare 1½ fr., time 2 hrs., 10½ m. N. up the valley of the Paillon, passing the pretty village of Trinité—Victor, 5½ m. N., pop. 1300; Drap, on both sides of the Paillon; and then on a hill to the left, 2½ hrs. distant by a path, the ruins of the village Châteauneuf, abandoned on account of the want of water. Contes. Contes, pop. 1700, has good country inns, gardens full of orange trees, and vineyards producing good wine. Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats to Trinité-Victor and back, 5 frs.; ½ hour’s rest allowed.

Nice: Climate.

_Climate._—If I should be asked to draw a comparison between Nice and Cannes with respect to climate, I should be inclined to call Nice a trifle colder in winter, especially if there be much snow on the mountains. M. Teysseire has preserved and published records of twenty years’ meteorological observations taken at Nice with instruments placed outside his window, on a fourth floor facing the north-north-east. His mean results for the twenty years are as follow; to which, for the sake of comparison, I append the means of my six winter seasons at Cannes:—

Mean Temperature. Nice. Cannes. November 53.8 52.6 December 48.5 46.3 January 47.1 48 February 46.2 48.8 March 51.8 51 April 58.1 55.5

The mistral is as well known at Nice as it is at Cannes.—_Health Resorts_, by M. Marcet, M.D.

Vallons.

Nice occupies a plain bounded by the limestone summits of the Maritime Alps, whence descend fertile wooded ridges composed of a reddish conglomerate and a gray-blue clay of the Pleiocene period. Between these ridges are deep vallons, gullies, or furrows, with precipitous sides, scooped out to a great depth by the intermittent action of torrents, the breadth and depth of the valleys depending on the volume of water in the stream and the degree of consistence of the conglomerate. The great vallons have tributary vallons. The pleasant Vallon de Magnan exemplifies both kinds. From the Pont de Magnan (near which a tram stops) the first tributary is nearly a mile up the stream, opening from the right or west side. This vallon is short, the walls nearly perpendicular, and in some parts scarcely 2 ft. apart. Higher up the Magnan, and opening from the left or east side, next a church, is the more beautiful and more extensive tributary vallon, the Madeleine, which high up becomes so narrow and so choked with troublesome brambles as to be almost impassable. The banks are covered with vegetation, and the more level parts with maritime pines and olive trees. At the entrance are beds of clay of immense thickness, of which 175

fire-bricks are made. The Mantéga Vallon, entered from the Chemin de Mantéga (see plan), has great walls of clay and conglomerate. The softer conglomerate is quarried and broken up for its sandy dolomitic material, which, mixed with lime, makes excellent mortar.

The city of Nice consists of three distinct parts:—1st, the new or fashionable quarter, stretching westwards from the Paillon, containing avenues and gardens, and broad and well-paved streets bordered with large and elegant buildings, of which a large proportion are hotels and “pensions;” 2d, the Old Town, a perfect labyrinth of narrow, dirty, steep streets, radiating from the Cathedral as a sort of centre, and running up the sides of the Château hill, which separates it from, 3d, the Port, with its seafaring population, and about 16 acres of harbour.

During the season, from November to April, Nice is a luxurious city, with the attractions and resources of the great northern capitals. In winter the population may be estimated at 90,000, whereas in summer it is only about 54,000, a diminution in numbers apparent only in the largest and most elegant part of the city. The non-fluctuating population inhabit the crowded tenements in the narrow streets huddled together between the Paillon and the Château hill.

Nice: Promenade. Castle. Cemetery.

The glory of Nice is the Promenade des Anglais, commenced by the English in 1822 to employ the poor during a season of scarcity. This beautiful terraced walk, 85 ft. broad, extends 2 m. along the beach of the Baie des Anges, from the Quai Lunel of the Port to the mouth of the Magnan, whence it will be continued other 3 m. west to the mouth of the river Var, near the Racecourse.

Over the Port rises the Castlehill, 315 ft., commanding from the platform, in every direction, the most charming views. To the E. are the peninsula of St. Jean and Cape Boron, and rising from it, Fort Montalban, Mt. Vinaigrier, and the Observatory residence and buildings. To the N. is Mt. Chauve; to the E. the roofs of Nice; and in the distance the Roche-Blanche (p. 164), the peninsula of Antibes, and the Estérels. This fortress, founded by the early Phœnician colonists, and destroyed and rebuilt at various periods afterwards, was finally razed to the ground in 1706, by order of Louis XIV., by Maréchal Berwick. Now it has become the great park of Nice. A round tower that still remains, over the Hôtel des Princes, called the Tour Bellanda, was probably added to the Castle by Emmanuel Philibert in 1560. On the W. side of the hill (see plan) is the cemetery in five stages. At the entrance is the monument to the “Victimes de l’Incendie du Theatre, 23d March 1881.” Towards the E. end, at the wall, is the grave of 176

Rosa Garibaldi, d. 19th March 1852. The tombstone was placed by her son, General Garibaldi. In the highest terrace is the grave containing Gambetta and his mother. In a terrace by itself in the eastern end is the Protestant cemetery.

Caterina Segurana.

Near the harbour, and above the Quai Lunel, is the statue of King Charles Felix. In the Rue du Murier, leading down from the Rue Segurane to the Port, is the mulberry tree where Caterina Segurana had her tent. On the 15th of August 1543 she, at the head of a devoted band, attacked the allied French and Turkish forces commanded by François de Bourbon and the Turk Barbarossa, struck down with her own hand the standard-bearer, and put the enemy to flight. Giuseppe Garibaldi was born, 19th July 1807, in a house which stood at the head of the Port before its enlargement. In a small street, ramifying from the Rue Segurane, is the church of St. Augustin, in which Luther preached in 1510. At the east end of the R. de la Préfecture, last street left, No. 15 R. Droite, is the Palais des Lascaris, with ceilings painted in fresco by Carlone. It is now the “École Professionnelle.” This is also the street of the jewellers patronised by the peasantry. Paganini died (1840) in the house No. 14 R. de la Préfecture. The jambs and lintels of the doorway are slightly decorated. The Cathedral and the other churches in the old town are in the Italian style, ornamented with gilding and variously-coloured marbles. The new church, Notre Dame, in the Avenue de la Gare, is Gothic in style. The first non-Romanist church erected in Nice was the Episcopal chapel of the Trinity in 1822. As it became too small, the present church was built on the same site in 1856 at a cost of £6000. To the N.W. of the railway station, by the Chemin St. Etienne, in an orange grove, is the Nice: Memorial Chapel. Russian Memorial Chapel, a series of ascending domes, built over the spot on which stood the villa in which the Prince Imperial of Russia died, April 24, 1865. The interior is covered with designs in gold leaf, varied here and there by a light-blue ground. Round the base runs a white marble panelling, enclosing frescoes of saints in niches.

The principal thoroughfares in Nice are the Place Massena and the handsome broad street the “Avenue de la Gare,” extending in a straight line northward from the “Place” to the station. Next in importance are the Quais Massena and St. Jean Baptiste. In the above are all the best shops. The Rue Massena, and its continuation the Rue de France, behind the Promenade des Anglais, contain shops principally of the provision kind, British stores, grocers, wine merchants, confectioners, 177