Chapter XIV: Part I: Paris to Marseilles (12)

Menton is situated round a large bay, bounded on the west by Cape St. Martin, and on the east by Mortola Point. This bay is divided into two smaller bays by the hill, 130 ft. high, on which the old town is built. The platform of the parish church, St. Michel, is reached by 95 steps in 8 divisions. All the streets about it are narrow, dirty, steep, and even slippery. The new town stretches out a great way along the beach. The public promenade (about 40 ft. wide) bends round the west bay from the town to Cape St. Martin. A kind of gloom pervades Menton. The strip of ground on which it stands is narrow, and so are the streets. Immediately behind rise great mountains with dark gray limestone cliffs, intermingled with deep green olive trees and stiff straggling pines. The valleys are narrow and sombre. The roads up the mountains are steep, badly paved, and are generally traversed on unwilling donkeys.

The pleasantest walks and drives are those along the coast, extending from Cape St. Martin to the Italian frontier, to which there are two roads, an upper and a lower. The former, the main road, crosses the bridge of St. Louis, while the latter skirts the beach to the famous bone-caverns. The _débris_ found in these caves, like the shell-banks in the north of Scotland, consisted of the waste accumulation from the food of the early inhabitants, together with the stone implements they had employed. Four of the caves are above the railway, a little beyond the viaduct under the Italian custom-house, and two are just below the line close to the beach.

Cape St. Martin. Gorbio. St. Agnès.

Cape St. Martin, 2 m. W. Tram from Garavan to St. Martin, 50 c. The tram stops at the N.E. corner of the cape. On the road northward from the cape leading to Roquebrune is, right hand, a Roman sepulchre, consisting of a centre arch with a smaller arch on each side, all that remains of the Roman settlement Lumone, mentioned by Antoninus. From this a straight road leads directly S. through a grove of large olive trees to the signal-tower in the centre of the peninsula. Beside it are the ruins of a nunnery, which was connected with the monastery of St. Honorat (p. 158). Afterwards the road leading westward joins the carriage-way, which sweeps round the peninsula. A stony path on the W. side, parallel to the road, extends along the coast by the rocks and cliffs (see map, p. 185).

Gorbio, 2½ hrs. or 5 m. N. up the valley of the Gorbio, and 1427 ft. above the sea. Take the road E. from the Pont de l’Union, passing by the entrance into the Villa (Palais) Carnolès, and, traversing groves of lemon and olive trees. When about 1 hr. from the village the road 196

becomes steep, and pines take the place of lemon trees. Gorbio, pop. 500, occupies the summit of a hill rising from a valley formed by the stream Gorbio and by one of its affluents. The streets are narrow, steep, and roughly paved; the houses poor but substantial; and the little church, built in 1683, is dedicated “Soli Deo.” At the upper end of the village is a beautiful tulip tree. The path northward from the tree leads to Mt. Gorbio, 2707 ft., and to Mt. Baudon, 7144 ft. The rough stony road leading to the right or eastward from the tree ascends, in less than 2 hrs., to St. Agnès. It is easily followed, and unfolds lovely views. St. Agnès, pop. 580, is situated 2180 ft. above the sea, or 330 ft. below the mountain peak, crowned with the ruins of the castle built in the 10th cent. by Haroun, a bold Saracen chief. A narrow path leads up to the top in 45 minutes, whence there is an extensive prospect.

From the village descend to Menton by the path on the W. side of the village, which, after innumerable windings, reaches the road by the side of the Gorbio. On the way down it is difficult, among the network of execrable paths, to follow the right one, which in descending is not of much consequence, but in ascending adds immensely to the fatigue. If the traveller should stray into the Vallon Castagnec or Primevères, the bed of the stream should be followed as much as possible. One excursion should be made of Gorbio and St. Agnès, commencing with Gorbio.

Annonciade. Castellar.

Convent and Chapel of the Annonciade, 722 ft. above the sea, on the ridge between the Carrei and the Borrigo. Walk up the right or west bank of the Carrei to beyond the railway bridge, the length of the Hôtel Beau-Séjour, whence the path commences. Opposite, on the other side of the river, is seen the Hôtel des Iles Britanniques. The object of this easy excursion is the charming view from the terrace in front of the convent. The walls of the church are covered with votive offerings.

Castellar, 1280 ft. above the sea, 4 m. north, pop. 770. The road commences from the narrow street, R. de la Caserne, a few yards W. from the Place du Marché. Having passed a church, it enters on the broad highway which skirts the flanks of the steep mountains, covered with lemon and olive trees, rising from the left or east side of the stream Menton. With a few interruptions the road is excellent all the way. Castellar, on the plateau of St. Sebastian, surrounded by olive trees, is a poor village, consisting of three narrow dirty parallel streets lined with ugly dingy houses, and terminating 197

at the N. end with the parish church, rebuilt in 1867. Near the church are the crumbling ruins of a castle of the Lascaris, descendants of the Byzantine Emperors. From the terrace, where there are some beautiful elm trees, is a charming view. Here also the village feast-day is held on the 20th of January. From Castellar 2 to 3 hrs. are required for the ascent of the Berceau, 3640 ft. above the sea, commanding a magnificent prospect. Guide advisable.

Bennet’s Garden.

Pont St. Louis, Bennet’s Garden, Hamlets of Grimaldi and Ciotti.—At the east end of the Garavan is the boundary between France and Italy, a narrow ravine with cliffs 215 ft. high, spanned by a bridge of one arch 72 ft. wide. From this, on the first projecting point, are an Italian custom-house station and the two entrances into the Bennet Garden. The lower entrance is just before reaching the top of the point, the other is by the path ascending from the point to Grimaldi. The upper entrance is by the side of the square tower converted into a villa. The garden on terraces is an oasis among cliffs, rocks, and stones, and is chiefly remarkable for the number of English garden flowers in full bloom in the middle of winter. The views from the walks are charming.

The continuation of the path, or rather stair, up the steep rocky hill leads to Grimaldi, a few straggling cottages among olive and lemon trees. After Grimaldi the path crosses the top of the ridge, and having passed up by the E. or left side of the Vallon St. Louis, ascends the hill, on the top of which is the hamlet of Ciotti (1090 ft.), consisting of some 20 houses compactly grouped together. N.E. from Ciotti is Mt. Belinda, 1837 ft.

La Mortola. Hanbury Grounds.

La Mortola, about 2 m. E. from Garavan. The Menton and Ventimiglia omnibus passes through Mortola by the gate (200 ft. above the sea) of the Hanbury Grounds, consisting of 99 acres, sloping down to the beach by terraces. Large olive trees occupy the larger portion, while in the more sheltered nooks are palms, orange and lemon trees. On a level with the house, the Palazzo Orengo, 150 ft. below the entrance, is the Pergola, a charming walk covered with trelliswork supported by massive pillars, up which climb above 100 different species of creeping plants. Queen Victoria visited the grounds on the 25th March 1882. An excellent view of the house and grounds, as well as of Ventimiglia and Bordighera, is had from the stone seat a little below the Mortola cross, on the highest part of the road, a little to the W. of Mortola. For time and conditions of admission into the Hanbury Grounds apply to the Palmaro Bank, 17 R. St. Michel. The 198

generous founder and father of the present owner died a few years ago. Just beyond is the Piano di Latte, one of the most favoured little valleys in the Riviera. Mortola is nearly an hour’s drive from Bordighera.

Les Moulins. Monti. Hermit’s Grotto.

The most important drive towards the interior is to Sospel, 14 m. N., on the road between Nice and Cuneo by the Col di Tenda (see p. 182). Excellent carriage-road all the way, ascending by the western or railway station side of the Carrei. In the lower part of the valley are large plantations of lemon trees. To the left of the road near the octroi are Les Moulins olive-oil mills, with four stages of water-wheels. 4 m. farther up the valley of the Carrei, on a eminence considerably above the stream, are the church and straggling village of Monti. The bridle-road that descends here to the Carrei crosses over to Castellar, well seen on the opposite side. About a mile beyond Monti, opposite the part of the road where it makes a sudden bend to the left, is seen a small stone bridge on the other side of the Carrei. This bridge crosses the stream that forms the cascade called the Gourg-d’Ora.

About a hundred yards to the west of the bridge, on the face of an almost vertical rock, and at a considerable height, is a kind of window or cavity called the Hermit’s Grotto. Over the entrance is an illegible inscription in red hieroglyphics. By the side is another inscription giving the name of a hermit who once lived in this cave:—

CHRISTO LA FECE. BERNARDO L’ABITO. 1528. (Christ made it. Bernard inhabits it.)

The inside of the grotto is composed of two rooms; the first, 6 yds. by 4½, is continued by steep staircases up into the mountain for about 27 yds. At this extremity a large cavity leads into a second room, 3 yds. long, with a floor sloping in the opposite direction to the opening. Into this cave the crusader Robert de Ferques is said to have retired from grief.

At the time when King Philip Augustus had summoned all his nobility to take part in the third crusade, a lord, named Robert de Ferques, hastened to join the banner of the Count of Boulogne, his sovereign. This Robert de Ferques had been recently married, and his young bride, Jehanne de Leulinghem, unable to bear the thought of separation, resolved to follow her lord and share his toils. She succeeded by concealing her sex under a man’s dress, and set out with joy in the capacity of esquire. Unhappily, during the journey she fell from her horse, and was forced to stop at an inn. Robert de 199

Ferques was obliged, with broken heart, to follow the army, and abandon his young wife to the care of a faithful servant. But in a few days the old esquire came with tears in his eyes to announce to his master the death of the courageous Jehanne. The poor knight was so overwhelmed with grief that, with the consent of the Count of Boulogne, he resolved to give up the world, and consecrate to God, in the most austere solitude, a life which he had already almost sacrificed to Him in war with the infidels. In 1528 he seems to have been succeeded by the anchoret Bernard.

Castellon. Climate.

The Sospel road now begins to ascend the Col de Guardia, pierced near the top by a tunnel 260 ft. long, and shortly after it reaches the walled town of Castellon or Castiglione, on an eminence 2926 ft above the sea, commanding an extensive view, 8¼ m. from Menton, pop. 320. 5¾ m. farther is Sospel, pop. 3500 (p. 182).

_Climate._—Menton being protected by an amphitheatre of high hills from the northerly blasts, the winters here are generally milder.

“A cool but sunny atmosphere, so dry that a fog is never seen at any period of the winter, whatever the weather, either on sea or on land, must be bracing, invigorating, stimulating. Such, indeed, are the leading characteristics of the climate of this region—the Undercliff of western Europe. Such a climate is perfection for all who want bracing, renovating—for the very young, the invalid middle-aged, and the very old, in whom vitality, defective or flagging, requires rousing and stimulating. The cool but pleasant temperature, the stimulating influence of the sunshine, the general absence of rain or of continued rain, the dryness of the air, render daily exercise out of doors both possible and agreeable. I selected Menton as my winter residence six years ago, because I was suffering from advanced pulmonary consumption, and after six winters passed at Menton I am now surrounded by a little tribe of cured or arrested consumption cases. This curative result has only been attained, in every instance, by rousing and improving the organic powers, and principally those of nutrition. If a consumption patient can be improved in health, and thus brought to eat and sleep well, thoroughly digesting and assimilating food, the battle is half won; and helping the physician to attain this end is the principal benefit of the winter climate of the Riviera.” —Bennet’s _Winter Climates_.

“With all its vaunted security from biting winds, and its mountain shelter from the northern blasts, Menton lies most invitingly open to the south, south-east, and south-west, and winter winds from these directions can be chilly enough at times. What tells so keenly upon the weak and susceptible is the land breeze, which regularly at sundown steals from the mountains towards the sea. The mean temperature of November is 54°, December 40°, February 49°, March 53°. When the air is still, a summer heat often prevails during the day, though in the shade and within doors the mercury seldom rises above 60°.” —_Wintering at Menton_, by A. M. Brown.

For the Excursions, see maps pp. 163 and 185.

opp. 199 ITALIAN RIVIERA, &c.

see caption

200

THE ITALIAN RIVIERA, or

Menton to Genoa.

By Ventimiglia, Bordighera, San Remo, and Savona.

Distance 100½ miles. See accompanying Map.

GENOA 100½ MENTON. The road from Menton to Genoa crosses the frontier at the bridge of St. Louis, spanning a ravine 215 ft. deep.

6½ m. E. from Menton by the carriage-road, passing the village of Mortola, and traversing the Piano di Latte, is

MENTON GENOA 6¾ 93¾ VENTIMIGLIA, pop. 8500, on a hill at the mouth of the Roja. _Inns:_ near station, the Hôtel Suisse; in the low town, the Hôtel Tornaghi. All the trains halt here ¾ of an hour, and luggage entering France or Italy is examined. The new station is commodious. At one end of the luggage-room is a clock with Paris time, and at the other one with the time of Rome, 47 minutes in advance of Paris. The waiting-rooms, “Sale d’Aspetto,” cloak-rooms, “Camerini di Toeletta,” and the refreshment rooms are all at the French end, as well as the way out to the train. The town is well seen from the station. The church occupies a prominent position; and close to it, in the Via Lascaris, are the post office, theatre, and the best café. The walk up this same Via to the town-gate shows the best part of the town, while the avenues in continuation beyond it lead up to the best sites for views. Not far from the station, on the right bank of the Nervia, on a large sandbank, are the remains of a theatre and of a cemetery, which probably mark the site of the ancient Albintemelium. What remains of the theatre is composed of large blocks of greenstone from the quarries of Mortola. The excavations have been carried on under the direction of the inspector of historic monuments in the province. Omnibus between Ventimiglia and Bordighera. Diligence once daily between Ventimiglia and Tenda, p. 183.

Bordighera.

MENTON GENOA 10 90½ BORDIGHERA, pop. 2800. The old town, the Bordighera di sopra, is compactly built on the summit of the eminence rising from the cape S. Ampeglio, whose sides are covered with olives and palms. Down below, on almost a level with the sea, is the low or new town, where most of the invalids reside, though it is doubtful if the site is well chosen. _Hotels:_ the best is the ¹*H. Angleterre, a first-class house in a garden, near the station. Similarly situated is the 201

¹H. Bordighera. Both charge from 10 to 20 frs. Behind the Angleterre is the Episcopal chapel. West from the Angleterre is ²*Beau Rivage, 6 to 10 frs. Immediately opposite station are ²H. and P. Continental, 9 to 11 frs.; the ²H. and P. Sapia, 8 to 9 frs., and the Bordighera bank, where money can be changed. Eastward are the hotels ²Victoria and ²Windsor. Admirably situated on an eminence overlooking the Moreno palm-garden is the ¹*H. and P. Belvédère, 8 to 12 frs. Near it is the ²*Pension Anglaise, 6 to 9 frs. At the commencement of the Vallecrosia valley is a Home with industrial school for orphans of poor Italian Protestants, founded by an English lady. Omnibus between Bordighera and San Remo, passing through Ospedaletti, a beautiful drive. Also omnibus every half-hour between Bordighera and Ventimiglia. It passes through the low town of Ventimiglia and stops at the commencement of the ascent to the high town.

The great feature of Bordighera are its plantations of palms, whose tufted tops wave above the more lowly lemon trees laden with pale yellow fruit, while the whole of the background is crowded with vigorous olive trees. Some of the palms are 800 years old. The lemon, after the olive, is the most profitable tree.

To the _Tower of Mostaccini_, 1½ hr. there and back, by the Strada Romana, till near Pozzoforte, where ascend by path right hand. This tower, of Roman origin, and still in excellent preservation, served as an “avisium” or watch-tower in the Middle Ages. From it is obtained a delightful view of part of the coast.

Isola Buona.

2½ m. west from Bordighera is the commencement of the valley of the Nervia, 16 m. long from north to south, with a varying breadth of 1½ to 2½ m. A good carriage-road extends all the way up to Pigna, 11 m. from Bordighera. On this road, 1½ m. up the Nervia, or nearly 4 m. from Bordighera, is Campo-Rosso, on the Nervia, at its junction with the Cantarena, pop. about 250. It possesses two churches, both 12th cent. St. Pierre has frescoes, 15th cent., on principal entrance and on the sacristy, also some pictures attributed to Brea of Nice. The confessionals are in the gallery. From Campo-Rosso a bridle-path leads up to the top of the hill, on which is the chapel of Santa Croce, commanding an extensive view. About 2 m. farther up the valley is Dolce-Acqua, on both sides of the Nervia, crossed here by a stone bridge with a span of 108 ft. Over the village, consisting of houses crowded together and piled above each other, rises the imposing feudal castle of the Dorias, reduced to its present dilapidated condition by the Genoese in 1672. 2¼ m. from Dolce-Acqua, or 8½ m. from Bordighera, is Isola Buona, pop. 1200, with paper and olive mills, heath pipe manufactories, and cold sulphurous springs. From Isola, a little way up the Merdanio or Merdunzo, is Apricale, pop. 1000. South from Apricale is Perinaldo, the birthplace, 8th June 1625, of Giovanni Domenico Cassini, the most famous of a family distinguished as astronomers, who succeeded one another as directors of the observatory at Paris for four generations.

Pigna.

A little more than 11 m. from Bordighera is Pigna, on the Nervia, 202

at the foot of Mont Torragio, 3610 ft. above the sea, a village where the principal occupation is the cutting and sawing of the timber from the surrounding forests. The church, built in 1450, has on the rose window a representation of the descent of the Holy Ghost on the apostles. The frescoes on the choir are nearly of the same date as the church, and are attributed to Jean Ranavasio. In the wild and picturesque ravine of the Nervia, above Pigna, is a copious sulphurous spring, temp. 79° Fahr., utilised by a bathing establishment. Near Pigna, on a hill covered with chestnut trees, is the village of Castel-Vittorio or Franco. From Pigna a bridle-path leads, 4 m. N., to Les Beuze, the last village in the valley of the Nervia.

The most pleasant of the drives is to San Remo, 6¾ m. N.E., by Ospedaletti. About a mile from the E. side of Cape S. Ampeglio is the hamlet of Ruota, with a small chapel containing a group in alabaster representing the Annunciation. A short way farther a path descends from the road to a house on the beach in a luxuriant garden of palm and lemon trees. At the inner end of this orchard, near the railway, is an excellent sulphurous spring, temp. 70° F. After this the Corniche road bends round to Ospedaletti (see below). On the hills behind Ospedaletti, about 2 m. N., is La Colla, 1000 ft. above the sea. In the Town Hall is a valuable collection of 120 paintings, mostly by great Italian masters, such as Frà Bartolomeo, I. Bassano, F. Barocci, A. Carracci, Caravaggio, Cortona, C. Dolci, Domenichino, Sasso Ferrati, Reni, Salvator Rosa, Andrea del Sarto, and Spagnoletti. In another room is the library. The pictures and books were collected by the Abbé Paolo Rambaldi during his long stay at Florence, who at his death (1864) bequeathed them to this his native city. In the sacristy of the parish church is a beautifully-carved ivory crucifix, bequeathed, along with some other articles, by the Prelate Stefano Rossi, also a native of this quarter. A coach with 2 horses from Bordighera to La Colla and back costs 20 frs.

La Colla is the native town of the sea-captain Bresca, who, contrary to the orders of Pope Sixtus V., broke the silence by calling aloud to “wet the ropes” when the obelisk was being raised in front of St. Peter’s. 2 m. E. from La Colla is San Remo, which is 3 m. from Ospedaletti.

The climate of Bordighera is similar to that of San Remo; but as a residence it is more rural and has fewer resources. The mistral at Bordighera, instead of being a north-westerly wind, deviates by the configuration of the coast into a west wind.

Bordighera supplies Rome with palm-leaves for the Easter ceremonies, as also the Israelites in Germany and Holland for the feast of Tabernacles.

Ospedaletti.

MENTON GENOA 13½ 87 OSPEDALETTI, pop. 1000, a small village with nearly a mile of frontage towards the sea, from which it is separated by the railway. In the village is the ²H. and P. Ospedaletti, room 40 frs. the month. 203

Upon an eminence with garden is the ¹H. de la Reine, 12 to 20 frs. Adjoining is a handsome Casino, in which there is dancing even during the day. The gambling is private, and on a small scale.

San Remo. Hotels.

MENTON GENOA 16½ 84 SAN REMO, 16¼ m. E. from Menton by the coach-road, pop. in winter 18,000. As Italy is entered it will be observed that the women, the maidens and their mothers, are the hewers of wood and drawers of water, and that to their lot falls the menial work of the most laborious trades.

_Hotels._—Those with the figure ¹ are first-class houses, with ² second-class. The asterisk signifies that they are especially good of their class. Commencing at the railway station and going eastward by the principal street, the Via Vittorio Emanuele, we have the ¹G. H. de la Paix, close to the station and fronting the public garden. Then follow the ²H. and P. Nationale, 7 to 8 frs.; the ¹*H. San Remo; the ²P. Suisse; the Rubino Bank; the Squire-Pharmacy; the Asquasciate Bank; the Vicario Store; the ²P. Molinari, and the ²H. Bretagne, frequented principally by commercial travellers. Behind Squire’s is the Episcopal Chapel, and a little farther west, left hand, the Post Office.

On the Corso Garibaldi, the eastern continuation of Via Vittorio Emanuele, are the ¹H. Nice and the ¹*H. Angleterre. Near the Angleterre are the Pensions ²*Allemagne; ²Rossi; and ²Lindenhof; and the Home for invalid ladies of limited means. Twenty-five shillings the week; which, as at the similar institution at Menton, includes doctors’ fees, comfortable living, wine or beer, and everything except washing and fire in bedroom. For particulars apply to Messrs. Barnetts & Co., bankers, 62 Lombard Street, London.

At the end of the corso are two large houses in gardens, with one front to the sea and the other to the road—the ¹H. Méditerranée and the ¹*H. Victoria. Near the harbour, behind the Via V. Emanuele, are the ²*Beau-Séjour with garden, and the H. Bains.

At the west end of San Remo are some good houses, mostly on eminences in gardens. Taking them in the order from E. to W. we have the ²P. Anglo-Americaine; the Presbyterian Chapel; the ²P. Tatlock (German); ¹*Hôtel Royal; ¹*Belle-Vue; ¹Paradis; ¹*Londres; ¹Pavillon (moderate); ¹Anglais; ¹Palmieri; and the ¹*West-End, the most important hotel on this side of San Remo, and situated at the commencement of the pleasant walk by the Strada Berigo. In the first-class hotels the pension is from 9 to 18 frs., in the “pensions” from 7 to 11 frs.

Omnibuses run between the two ends of the town; also between San Remo and Bordighera; San Remo and Taggia by Bussana; San Remo and Dolce-Acqua; and San Remo and Ceriana, 6½ m. N. (see map, p. 165).

_Cab Fares._—The course, 1 horse, 1 fr. during the day, and 1½ 204

fr. night. Per hour, 2 frs.; at night, 3 frs. The course, 2 horses, 1½ fr. during the day, and 2½ frs. at night. The hour, 3 frs.; at night, 4 frs.

San Remo: Climate.

Old San Remo is built on two hills, and the modern town at the foot of these hills, on the Nice and Genoa road, called at this part the Via Vittorio Emanuele, where are now all the best hotels, restaurants, booksellers, confectioners, and dealers in inlaid woods. “The mean temperature is 49°.1 Fahr. (Sigmund), nearly as high as Dr. Bennet’s estimate of that of Menton; while it would appear, from a comparison of the thermometrical tables kept by Dr. Daubeny with those of Dr. Bennet for the same winter, that the range of temperature at Menton is nearly 3° more than at San Remo. The climate is warm and dry, but from the protecting ranges not rising precipitously as at Menton, the shelter from the northerly winds is less complete. At the same time the vast olive groves screen the locality from cold blasts and temper them into healthful breezes, imparting a pleasing freshness to the atmosphere, and removing sensations of lassitude often experienced in too well-protected spots. The size of the sheltered area gives patients a considerable choice of residences, which can be found either close to or at varying distances from the sea, according to the requirements of the case; while the numerous wooded valleys, abounding in exquisite wild flowers, provide plenty of donkey and foot excursions.” —Williams’ _Winter Stations_.

San Remo has many pleasant walks, in valleys full of lemon trees, as at Menton, or up mountains covered with olive trees, generally on terraces built up with low stone walls without plaster.

San Remo: Drives. Poggio. Madonna Della Guardia.

The best of the drives is to the Madonna della Guardia, on Cape San Martino, by the village of Poggio, and back by the coast-road. From the Hôtel Victoria the Corniche is continued till arriving at a part where the road divides into two; one descends, the other ascends; take the latter, which an inscription on a marble slab indicates to be the “Strada Consortile de San Remo à Ceriana.” This road ascends through olive trees to Poggio. Just before entering Poggio, the carriage-road to the Madonna strikes off to the right by the east side of the promontory, while a stony bridle-path goes right over the centre. The town seen on the opposite side of the valley is Bussana. Poggio, one of the many wretchedly poor villages, has two churches. The road, which has ascended all the way from San Remo to Poggio, still continues to ascend by the Ceriana valley to Ceriana. _Inn:_ H. Etoile d’Italie, 6½ m. from San Remo, commanding ever-extending views, which, together with the profusion of wild flowers, form the principal 205

attraction of the excursion. Cab with 1 horse to Ceriana and back, 14 frs.; 2 horses, 20 frs., with ½ hr. rest. The Madonna road from Poggio is nearly level. The chapel, with a few tall cypresses, stands at the extremity of Cape San Martino. The prospect is extensive. To the east are, on the coast, Arma, Riva, San Stefano, and in the distance San Lorenzo. On the hills behind them are Bussana, Pompeiana, and Lingueglietta. Behind is Poggio. To the west are San Remo, La Colla, and Bordighera. Cab with 1 horse to the chapel and back, 7 frs.; 2 horses, 10 frs., with ½ hr. rest (see maps, pp. 163 and 199).

A good carriage-road, commencing near Cape Nero, leads up to La Colla, on one of the spurs of the Piano del Carparo, 1000 ft. above the sea, and 2 m. from San Remo, by the bridle-path. Cab with 1 horse, 8 frs.; 2 horses, 12 frs., with ½ hr. repose. See page 199.

San Romolo.

St. Romolo to Monte Bignone.

One of the most frequented excursions is to San Romolo, 1700 ft. above the sea, and 4 m. northwards, either from the Place St. Etienne, or the Place St. Sir. Donkey, there and back, 5 frs. San Romolo consists of some villas, an old convent, and a chapel, built over the cell which was inhabited by the hermit St. Romolo. It commands splendid views, and from it the ascent is made of the Piano del Ré, a ridge 3500 ft. above the sea, between Mounts Caggio or Cuggio and Bignone. To reach the ridge, descend a short way the Romolo road, then take the path to the left, and make for the corner next Monte Bignone, whence the bridle-path ascends to the summit, 4235 ft. above the sea, 5 hrs. from San Remo, or about half that time from San Romolo. “In making the ascent of Monte Bignone, it is always safest to be accompanied by a guide. For those who are strong the ascent on foot is the pleasantest, but the road is quite practicable for sure-footed donkeys, although in places it is somewhat trying for those whose nerves are not strong. The whole route is exceedingly beautiful, glorious prospects meeting the eye at almost every turn; the path sometimes traverses forests of fir trees, with amongst them innumerable bushes of the bright-leaved holly, at others it runs along the edges of steep ravines and precipices: many curious and rare wild flowers attracting the eye on the way; till at length, after an ascent of about two hours from San Romolo and four from San Remo, the broad sloping and grassy summit of the mountain is reached. Continue the ascent until its highest point, marked by a stone obelisk, is gained, and from which one of the most magnificent prospects imaginable 206

lies stretched out on all sides, embracing an area in some directions of more than a hundred and fifty miles, astonishing and enchanting the beholder. To the south, the glorious expanse of the Mediterranean, and in the far distance the island of Corsica, with the snowy peaks of Monte Rotondo; on the right Monte Caggio, and the mountains forming the western half of the San Remo amphitheatre, terminating at Capo Nero surmounted by Colla, and the valleys of San Remo and Bordighera; farther away, the mountains of the Mentonean amphitheatre, and along the coast successively the various capes and promontories as far as Cap d’Antibes and even the Esterels; on the left the Ceriana and Taggia Valleys, with on the farther side of the latter Castellaro and the Madonna di Lampeduza, and Pompeiana and Riva on the seashore; while far away to the east are the mountains of the Eastern Riviera or of the Riviera di Levante, with the Apennines in the distance; lastly, to the north is a broad and deep valley, having on the other side a range of mountains still loftier than the one on which we are standing, and above these again, the snow-capped Alps stretching away in the one direction towards the Esterels, and in the other to Turin. Looking now more closely into the valley below, on a narrow ridge on the near side of the valley, is seen the town of Perinaldo, and on a hill on the opposite side, Apricale; both of a singularly deep red hue, from the fact that the tiled roofs only of the houses are seen from this great altitude. There is a pathway leading down to Bajardo, and thence to Pigna, where accommodation at a small but clean inn may be had for the night; whence the return home can then be made by the Nervia valley and Bordighera, altogether a most beautiful and varied excursion. (For the valley of the Nervia, see p. 201, and map, p. 165.)

View from Monte Bignone.

“It is impossible to convey in words anything like a correct idea of the splendour of the prospect on a clear day from Monte Bignone; it must be seen to be appreciated; it has been described as one of the finest in Europe. The excursion is one which may be safely undertaken with ordinary precautions, and is within the compass of any person of fair health and strength. An additional charm consists in the number of rare and beautiful wild flowers, which are different from those found at a lower elevation. Amongst the most noticeable of these is the blue Hepatica, Anemone, Hepatica L., a pink variety of which is sometimes met with, the pink cyclamen-like flower, Erythronium Dens Canis L. with its trefoil-like and spotted leaves; in shady places the Primrose, Primula acaulis All.; everywhere over the summit 207

of the mountain the Cowslip, Primula veris; two species of Gentian, Gentiana verna and G. acaulis L.; Ophrys fusca Link, also a species of Asphodel, Asphodelus albus Willd.; Saxifraga cuneifolia; Sempervivum arachnoideum L.; and lastly, in shady dells, Daphne laureola L. With two or three exceptions, these flowers were found in blossom at the end of April, but they had been so for some weeks previously. On my way up the San Romolo valley I noticed many plants of Helleborus fœtidus L., as also for the first time in flower the large and handsome pink Cistus, C. albidus L.; this is the species so commonly found above the region of the olive trees.” —_San Remo and the Western Riviera_, by Dr. Hassall.

San Remo to Taggia, there and back, cab, 1 horse, 8 frs.; 2 horses, 12 frs., with ½ hr. rest; by coach, 2 horses, for the day, 20 frs. Or from San Remo by rail to Arma, whence omnibus to Taggia, 10 sous. Donkey from Taggia to Lampedusa, 2 frs. The best place for refreshments in Taggia is the Albergo d’Italia, formerly the palace of the Marquis Spinola. The stream Taggia or Argentina is crossed by a long curved bridge of unequal arches. From the east end of this bridge a steep road leads up to the town of Castellar, whence a well-kept path ascends to the chapel of the Madonna di Lampedusa. From both places there are charming views. The Taggia road ascends the valley the length of Triora, by the village of Badalucco.

Taggia.

MENTON GENOA 21½ 79 TAGGIA, pop. 5000, on the Giabonte, 3 m. from the station. An omnibus awaits passengers (½ fr.) In Taggia it halts at the Locanda d’Italia, at the termination of the Via Curlo; whence commences the road to Castellar, situated upon a hill on the opposite side of the river, and about ½ hour’s walk from Taggia. Castellar is visited on account of the gaudy sanctuary and the view from the hill. Taggia, though a poor dirty town, with steep, narrow, and slippery streets, has two very fair churches. At No. 1 Via Soleri—the principal street in the town—is the habitation of Giovanni Ruffini (Dr. Antonio). To reach it, on entering the town, after having passed through the archway, take the street to the left, the Via Ruffini, then, first left, the Salita Eleonora. On the beach, near the Taggia station, is the little port of Arma, with the ruins of a fort built in the 15th cent. 2 m. farther east by rail is San Stefano, pop. 600, at the foot of Mont Colma, with a climate like that of San Remo.

Porto Maurizio. Oneglia.

MENTON GENOA 31 69½ PORTO MAURIZIO, pop. 8000. _Hotels:_ France; Commerce.

Porto Oneglia, pop. 8000, H. Victoria, on the opposite sides of a small bay. The most important part of San Maurizio is the high town, 208

containing the principal church, of which the porch consists of a double row of Corinthian columns flanked by two square towers. The interior represents the Roman-Greek style met with in all the churches on this coast, only here the details are more elaborate and more highly finished. The roof, instead of being plain barrel-vaulted, is divided into arches, domes, and semi-domes, resting on massive piers with attached Corinthian pillars. The soffits of the arches and domes are covered with diaper mouldings, with rich friezes and dentils along the edges. The form of the pulpit is graceful, and the staircase nearly hidden. Many of the old houses have handsome cornices over their windows and doorways. A good and much-frequented road, or rather promenade, connects Porto Maurizio with Oneglia, about a mile distant, beautifully situated at the mouth of the Impero. This is the birthplace of Admiral Andrea Doria, 1466. After passing through a long tunnel we reach the Port of Diano Marina. The broad valley inland up the Piètro is covered with fine olive trees. Farther east is Cervo, on an eminence overlooking the station and the sea. Then Laigueglia, with gardens full of orange trees. From Laigueglia a fine smooth beach extends all the way to

Alassio.

Alassio, pop. 5000, a new winter station, 44½ m. east from Menton, and 56 m. west from Genoa, built along the beach, and nearly surrounded by a high wall, with at both ends a suburb beyond the walls. _Hotels:_ H. et P. Suisse, opposite station, 6 to 9 frs. On the beach at the E. end, the *G. H. Alassio, 8 to 9 frs. On the beach at the W. end, the H. Méditerranée, 6 to 8 frs. Near the station, the Episcopal chapel.

Alassio and its neighbour Laigueglia are partially protected from some of the cold winds by low but compact mountains belonging to the chain of the Ligurian Alps. Pleasant walks and well-paved causeways extend up the hills, while along the coast are pretty drives to Loano and Ceriale, or up the valley westwards from Albenga. Around both towns are many large carouba and orange trees. Palms are less abundant. Between Alassio and the next station, Albenga, is the small island of Gallinaria, with a castle on the summit of the hill.

Albenga.

Albenga is 4 m. N. from Alassio, on the Caprianna, and at a little distance from the coast. _Hotels:_ Hotel d’Albenga; Italia; Vittoria. Their omnibuses await passengers. This, the ancient Albium Ingaunum, the birthplace of the Emperor Proculus, is situated on low ground, in a broad valley watered by the Caprianna. Around Albenga are many deciduous trees, and here and there in the sheltered spots orange and lemon trees trained as espaliers. A good carriage-road 209

extends up the valley of the Nerva and across the Col di S. Bernardo, then by the town of Garessio and the valley of the Tanaro to Ceva, 4 hours by rail from Turin.

After Albenga follow Loano, pop. 3800, pleasantly situated on the beach at the foot of a gentle sloping hill, and Pietraligure, on the Isola, pop. 1000, a sheltered town, with abundance of palms, orange, and lemon trees, principally at the eastern end, round the cape.

Finalmarina. Noli.

MENTON GENOA 59½ 41 FINALMARINA, pop. 3500. _Hotel:_ Garibaldi. The church of St. John the Baptist, after the design of Bernini, is richly ornamented with marbles of various hues, mingled with rich gilding and bright frescoes, presenting a grand combination of gorgeous colour. In Final Borgo is the church S. Biaggio, resplendent also with colour, but more subdued. The pulpit and altar display most delicate workmanship. There is a great deal of fine scenery in the neighbourhood, and pleasant walks in the valleys, and up the heights to the numerous dismantled forts (15th cent.), and to the Castello Gavone, a picturesque ruin. Five miles N. from Finalmarina is Noli, pop. 1000, _Inn:_ Albergo del Sole, at the commencement of the arcade, fronting the beach. This curious town, formerly a republic under the protection of Genoa, is still partially surrounded by walls garnished with rectangular towers. It is pierced from E. to W. by narrow parallel streets, the best being the Via Emanuele II., which commences at the beach on E. side by the clock-tower, near the inn, and traverses the town to the W. side by the new church. The continuation, outside the town, the Via Monasterio, leads up to the mountains covered with vines, olives, and maritime pines. On the top of the hill are the ruins of Noli castle, with walls garnished with circular towers. The old church, 11th cent., is near the station. Fishing is the chief industry. A beautiful road, 2 m. N. by the coast, leads to Spotorno.

opp. 211 GENOA and SAVONA to SESTRI-LEVANTE

see caption

Savona.

MENTON GENOA 74 26½ SAVONA, pop. 17,000. _Hotels:_ Suisse, a large house in the Piazza di Teatro; *Roma, under the Arcades; and the Italia, opposite the Suisse. In the ancient seaport of Savona, Mago the Carthaginian deposited his spoils after the capture of Genoa. The greater part of the town is now modern, consisting of handsome gardens, boulevards, and well-paved broad streets lined with massive arcades, and substantial houses built in enormous square blocks of from four to five stories high. The rock, the Rupe di S. Giorgio, on which the acropolis formerly stood, is occupied by the castle, and pierced by an elliptical tunnel. At both ends are small harbours with shallow water. The 210

Cathedral, built in 1604, is, in the interior, entirely covered with ornamental designs in different shades of brown and orange, relieved here and there by stripes of gilding. The two large frescoes in the choir, and the other at the western end, are by V. Garrazino. In the last chapel, N. side nearest the altar, is a triptych by Brea, 1495. Near the Cathedral, in the Sistina chapel, is the tomb of the parents of Pope Sixtus IV., the uncle of Julius II. In the church of San Domenico there is in the first chapel, left on entering, a “Nativity” by A. Semini. The figure of the Virgin appears rather large, but the contour and expression of the others are admirable. In another chapel on the same side of the church is an “Adoration of the Magi” by Albert Durer, in the form of a triptych. In a small church, called the Capella di Christo, over the altar within a niche, is a wooden figure of our Lord, said to be 800 years old. In the sacristy are two reliefs in black marble from 400 to 500 years old. The Emperor Pertinax, and the Popes Gregory VII., Sixtus IV., and Julius II., were born in or in the neighbourhood of Savona. 4 m. from Savona by coach and rail is the sanctuary of Nostra Signora di Misericordia. The church, built in the 16th cent., is covered with precious marbles, and ornamented with paintings by Castello, the intimate friend of Tasso. At Savona junction with line to Turin, 91 m. northwards (see p. 183).

Albissóla.

MENTON GENOA 77 23½ ALBISSÓLA, pop. 2000, on the Sansobbia. This town is about a mile from the Port or Marina. 4½ m. farther eastwards by rail is Varazze, pop. 10,000, a pleasant town at the head of a large bay. A little shipbuilding is carried on here. Beautiful palm, lemon, and orange groves. This is the birthplace of Jacopo di Voragine, the author of the _Golden Legend_, the reading of which was the principal means of transforming Ignacio Loyola from an intrepid soldier into a zealous missionary. Between Varazze, 64 m. N.E. from San Remo, and Arenzano, 6¼ m. N.E. from Varazze, is another favoured part of the Riviera, sheltered by a ridge of most picturesque hills, of which Monte Grosso (1319 ft.) is the culminating point. The road here passes through firs, umbrella pines, carouba trees, cypresses, evergreen oaks, arbutus trees, and some fine shrubs of _Phillyrea angustifolia_, with here and there just enough olive trees to afford evidence of the comparative mildness of the climate. About half-way between Varazze and Cogoleto is the village of Inoria.

Cogoleto. Columbus.

MENTON GENOA 85 15½ COGOLETO, pop. 1000. From the station walk down to the town; and on reaching the main street, the Via Cristoforo Colombo, 211

turn to the left. In the second division, right hand, at No. 22, is the house of Columbus, with the following inscription:—

Hospes, siste gradum. Fuit hic lux prima Columbo; Orbe viro majori heu nimis arcta domus! Unus erat mundus. Duo sunt, ait iste. Fuere.

It consists of three stories, with one side fronting the sea, and the other the main street. The rooms are small, and with arched roofs. That in which Columbus was born (1435) is on the first story. Fronting the adjoining room is a large balcony overlooking the Mediterranean, where it is possible the boy Columbus learned to conceive the idea of a continent beyond the Atlantic by having been accustomed to gaze on this sea at his feet, with the knowledge that beyond it there lay the vast continent of Africa. Although his parents were in humble circumstances, they were descended from a family belonging to the most illustrious nobility of Piacenza, who had lost their estates during the wars of Lombardy. Boatbuilding and fishing are the principal industries of Cogoleto. Map, p. 199.

Arenzano. Pegli.

MENTON GENOA 87¼ 13¼ ARENZANO, pop. 5000. *H. Arenzano, 7 to 8 frs., near station. One of the cleanest towns on the Riviera, pleasantly situated in a picturesque country and commanding extensive views of the coast. The road between Arenzano and Cogoleto passes by Monte Grosso.

MENTON GENOA 91¾ 8¾ VOLTRI, and the next town, Pra, may be called one. Paper-making and shipbuilding are the principal industries. Map, p. 199.

MENTON GENOA 95 5½ PEGLI, pop. 1000. _A winter station._ The largest hotel is the *H. Pegli et de la Méditerranée, with one side to the sea and the other to the public garden and English chapel. Pension in winter, 9½ to 15 frs. On the beach the H. Gargini, second class. Pegli is a quiet little village, prettily situated on the sea, and among hills. It has constant communication by tram and rail with Genoa, and is visited on account of the grounds around the Villa Pallavicini, ornamented with statues of Roman divinities, temples, triumphal arches, huts, and an obelisk. But the remarkable object is the artificial cave, covered with large stalactites, in the midst of a lake 5 feet deep, surrounded by evergreen shrubs and trees so arranged as to produce wonderfully pretty vistas. At one part the edge of the lake seems to join the sea, although many miles distant. All this has been created on the formerly sterile side of a hill, where almost nothing would grow from the want of water and of soil. Water was brought from a great distance, and caused to tumble down the mountain in cascades 212

into the lake, which had to be lined with porcelain to retain it. The cave was then built of brick, and covered with consummate art with stalactites, as in nature. The visitor is rowed in a boat about this most curious piece of land and water. In other parts there are a multitude of surprises, in unexpected jets of water, and in beautiful peeps of scenery no larger than a picture. Attendant, 1 fr.; for party, 2 frs.

Sestri-Ponente. Cornigliano.

1¾ m. E. from Pegli and 3¾ W. from Genoa is Sestri-Ponente, pop. 10,800. _Hotel:_ *G. H. Sestri, 8 to 12 frs., with commodious bathing establishment at the foot of the garden. The beach, composed of small pebbles, has a rapid slope. Good sea water can be brought to bedroom every morning. The station is near the hotel, and the trams pass by the gate. The interior of the parish church is superbly gilt and covered with frescoes. Just under the wide spanned roof are painted statues of the patriarchs and prophets. Sestri makes a better winter station than the next town, Cornigliano, *H. Rachel, 9 to 12 frs., with sheltered garden, 2½ m. W. from Genoa. Both of these towns are considered from 4° to 5° colder than Menton. The tram passes the garden gate of both hotels. After Cornigliano the tram and train traverse the populous suburb of Sampierdarena and arrive at Genoa. The principal railway station is at the W. end of Genoa. The Piazza Annunziata is the terminus of the Pegli, Sestri, and Cornigliano trams.

Genoa.

opp. 214 plan of Genoa

MENTON 100½ GENOA, pop. 145,000. The hotels most conveniently situated for visitors are the G. H. de Gènes, 9 to 15 frs., in the Piazza de Ferrari, opposite the theatre and the post office; the *G. H. Isotta, 10 to 15 frs., No. 7 Via di Roma, parallel to the glass arcade, and also near the post; the *Londres, 9 to 10 frs., near the station; the Victoria, in the Piazza Annunziata, and the H. Étrangers, No. 1 Via Nuovissima. The above are in a line with the palaces, and cost 8 to 10 frs. Down in the port in the Via Carlo Alberto, and most conveniently situated for those who have to embark, are—taking them in the order from W. to E.—the Croix de Malte, the H. de la Ville, the H. Smith, the *H. Trombetta, and the *France. They charge from 8 to 14 frs. By the side of the last two hotels is the Bourse, and in the neighbourhood of the Bourse are the best money-changers.

For Genoa to Turin, see p. 279.

Anglican church in the Via Goito, a small street leading northwards from the Acqua Sola Promenade. In the same neighbourhood is the broad street Via Assarotti, with at No. 37 the Valdensian and Presbyterian churches. Shops for filigree work in gold and silver in the Via degli Orefici by the side of the Bourse, and at the foot of the Sestiere 213

della Maddalena, which descends from the Piazza delle Fontane Morose. At No. 17 of that Piazza is a good shop for coral ornaments.

Genoa: Cafés. Cabs. Steamers.

_Cafés._— *Café Roma, by the Teatro Carlo Felice; *Stabilimento delle Nazioni, Via Roma; *Concordia, Via Garibaldi. The principal sights are the church of the Annunziata, p. 212; the Cemetery approached by the Staglieno omnibus from the Piazza de Ferrari; the Palaces between the railway station and the Piazza Nuova. The church of Santa Maria in Carignano, approached by the Carignano omnibus from the Piazza de Ferrari, passing through the Acqua Sola Gardens, 138 ft. above the sea (p. 218). North from the Acqua Sola is the Villa Negro, containing the Museum of Natural History. The best of the drives is along the Via di Circonvallazione.

Florio-Rubattino have steamers to Bastia (Corsica), Cagliari, Civita-Vecchia, Leghorn, and Porto Torres, in the north of Sicily. Peirano, Danovaro, and Co. have steamers to Ancona, Brindisi, Catania, Gallipoli, Leghorn, Messina, Naples, and Triest. For the English steamers between Liverpool, London, and the ports of the Mediterranean, apply to Lertora Fratelli, No. 2 Via S. Lorenzo.

1-horse cabs—the course, 1 fr.; the hour, 1½ fr.; every successive ½ hour, 80 c. 2-horse cabs—the course, 1½ fr.; the hour, 2 frs.; every successive ½ hour, 1 fr. Boats to and from the steamers, 1 fr. each. Rail from Genoa to Turin, 104 m. N.W. (p. 279).

Post Office in the Galleria Mazzini. Telegraph Office in the Palazzo Ducale. Best money-changers near and around the Bourse.