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Chapter XXV: Part II: Modane to Turin (6)

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To go to the Vallée d’Enfer return to the open glade and take the Enfer path which leads to the valley by the Vallée Lacour, ¾ m. long, near the top of which, at the Rocher de Courlande, 5325 ft., is the opening where those on foot climb over to the Vallée d’Enfer; those on horseback have to pass round by Burens. The Vallée d’Enfer is an arid narrow gorge between naked volcanic cliffs traversed by vertical dykes. From the valley continue southwards to the Pic de Sancy, or return to Mont-Dore, 4¾ m. N.

383

Bourboule. Hotels.

BOURBOULE.

8 m. from Laqueuille, surrounded by wooded mountains, in the valley of the Dordogne, is Bourboule, pop. 1600, 2796 ft. above the sea, or 606 ft. lower than Mont-Dore. The rapid increase of Bourboule is due to the excellence of its mineral waters, of the same nature as those of Mont-Dore, but richer in the chief ingredient to which they owe their especial virtue—the arseniate of soda. The climate too is a little milder, and the valley of the Dordogne wider and more open than it is at Mont-Dore.

_Hotels._—Around the principal establishment, called the Etablissement des Thermes, are the ¹Grand Hotel; H. ¹Bellon; ¹Univers; Bains; Europe; Globe; Étrangers; H. de ¹l’Etablissement; ¹Paris; ¹Sources. On the other side of the Dordogne, by the side of the Parc de Fenestre, are the Angleterre; France; ¹Parc; Beausejour; and also the Casino, Theatre, and Gambling-rooms.

At the east end of the town, on the road to Mont-Dore, are the ¹Poste; Bourboule; Helder; ¹Louvre; Nice; ¹Ambassadeurs; ¹Continental.

Abundance of furnished lodgings (Maisons Meublées) and villas to let.

The figure (¹) indicates that the hotel is first-class, with first-class prices, which vary according to the month and the story in which the room is situated. From the 25th of June to the 10th of August the charge is from 11 to 15 frs. the day, which includes room and two meals with wine. Coffee or tea in the morning, 1 fr. extra. Service, ½ to 1 fr. per day. Candles, 3 frs. at end of season. From the 25th of May to the 25th of June, and from the 10th of August to the 30th of September, the charges are less. Intending visitors should bear this in mind in their correspondence with the hotel-keepers.

The other hotels should charge less; but unless the price be agreed upon beforehand it will be much the same.

Bourboule: Baths. Charges.

The bath charges are rather complicated. There are three bathing-houses, of which the most important is the Etablissement des Thermes, a very large, well-arranged, and handsome building by the side of the Dordogne, opposite the park, near the springs Fenestre and Plage. Behind it, and more hidden among houses, are the Etablissement Chaussy and the Etablissement Mabru, both under the same roof. A part of the latter establishment is portioned off for the indigent.

In the Etablissement des Thermes a bath with linen, from 16th June to 31st August, 3 frs.; from 25th May to 15th June, and from the 1st to the 30th September, 2½ frs.

In the Etablissement Choussy the charges are ½ fr. less than in the Thermes. In the Mabru they are ½ fr. less than in the Choussy.

The pump-rooms of the Thermes and Choussy cost the season 10 frs., and in the indigent department of Mabru 5 frs.

The duration of a bath, with or without a douche, and of an inhalation or pulverisation sitting bath, must never exceed one hour, 384

including the time for dressing and undressing; whoever exceeds that time pays double. Chairmen to the baths and back, 1½ fr.

Bourboule: Springs.

The Springs.

Bourboule possesses seven mineral springs, of which five are on the right bank of the Dordogne, and two, the Sources Fenestre on the left, in the Park. The three most important, the Perrière, the Choussy, and Sédaiges, are within a few feet of each other, near the Mabru bathhouse. They rise from the place where the trachytic rocks overlap the granite, and were obtained by boring to the depth of from 82 to 92 ft. The water pumped up by steam-engines has, above ground, a temperature of 140° F.

These three springs produce the strongest arsenical water as yet discovered. Near them, but still on the same side of the river, are the springs of the Puits de la Plage, 81°, and of the Puits Central, 104°, mineralised more feebly, but in the same proportions. The two springs Fenestre, on the opposite side of the river, are cold (64° F.), and as they contain more free carbonic acid gas than the others, are drunk with wine at dinner.

Their Constituents and Effects.

Of the springs, Perrière, Choussy, and Sédaiges, each litre (11/50 of a gallon) contains 82 grains of mineral substances, of which nearly one half is the bicarbonate of soda, and the other half the chloride of sodium; and every 28 ounces contains the third of a grain of the arseniate of soda (see p. 379). Besides the special uses of these waters arising from the arsenic, their composition, resembling that of the serum of the blood, makes them applicable to cases of arrested development, defective nutrition, cases of slow convalescence, and other forms of general debility. In all scrofulous affections, such as enlarged glands, scrofulous discharges from mucous membranes, diseases of the bones, etc., these waters produce great benefit. But it is more especially in the chronic forms of skin disease that La Bourboule claims to effect the most remarkable cures, and chiefly when they arise in connection with a rheumatic or scrofulous constitution, or as the result of simple debility. The scrofulous form of pulmonary consumption, nasal and pharyngeal catarrhs, asthma, and chronic bronchitis, are all alleviated by the use of the Bourboule waters.

Bourboule: Excursions.

Bourboule Excursions.

On the wall of the Etablissement des Thermes a notice indicates that it is 2¼ m. from the Cascade de la Vernière, 2½ m. from the Cascade du Plat-a-Barbe, 3-1/10 m. from Murat-le-Quaire, 5½ m. from Mont-Dore-les-Bains, 4⅓ m. from the Cascade du Queureuilh, 4½ m. from the Cascade de Rossignolet, 4¾ m. from the summit of the Puy Gros, 2½ m. from the petrifying spring, 3½ m. from the village of St. Sauves, and 10⅘ m. from Latour. The most of these places are between Mont-Dore and Bourboule.

385

The only promenade of interest which may be said to belong especially to Bourboule is to the top of the Roche-Vendeix, with splendid specimens of basaltic columns, 2¼ m. S. by a path following the right or east bank of the stream Vendeix. About ¼ m. beyond, the Vendeix path joins the high road between Latour and Mont-Dore, which traverses the forest of La Reine and the forest of Bozat. Near the point of junction, in a glade of the forest, are a large sawmill and Mont Bozat. About 1¼ m. E. from the junction the high road crosses the Clergue, where a path descends northwards by the stream passing the Cascade Plat-a-Barbe, about 4½ m. from Bourboule by this roundabout way, but only 2½ m. by the direct path. The falls, 60 ft. high, tumble into a cavity bearing some resemblance to a barber’s shaving basin. A little way farther down through the woods the Clergue makes the cascade of La Vernière, consisting of a sheet of water 26 ft. high, 2¼ m. from Bourboule.

On the way between Bourboule and Mont-Dore, 1½ m. from Bourboule and 4 m. from Mont-Dore, a road extends 2½ m. N. to the summit of the Puy Gros, 5003 ft. above the sea.

Saint-Nectaire.

Mont-Dore to Issoire,

31¾ m. E., by Saint Nectaire 15½ m. E., and Champeix other 8¾ m. Diligence from St. Nectaire to Coudes railway station, 12½ m. E. The Mont-Dore coach, after having passed by the cascades of the Saut-du-Loup and of the Barbier, the village of Diane, the castle of Murols, and traversed the village of Sachapt and its narrow gorge, arrives at Saint-Nectaire-le-Bas, with a large bathing establishment. _Hotels:_ Paris; Madeuf; Mandon, etc.

N. from St. Nectaire-le-Bas is Saint-Nectaire-le-Haut, also with a large bathing establishment, supplied with similar mineral waters. _Hotels:_ Mont Cornadore; France. The waters are alkaline, ferruginous, and stimulant, temperature between 75° F. and 110° F., and are recommended for renal and hepatic diseases, amenorrhœa, leucorrhœa, and gout. The specialité may be said to be baths and douches of carbonic acid gas. In Mont Cornadore are large caves.

The parish church, built on a rock, 11th cent., is a curious specimen of Auvergnian architecture. In the neighbourhood, at Pernay, is a dolmen, of which the horizontal surface is 13 ft. by 6½ ft.; and 2½ m. distant the cascade of the Granges. 8¾ m. beyond, towards Issoire, is Champeix, pop. 2100, most picturesquely situated in the valley of the Couze. From Champeix the plateau of Pardines, 1620 ft., may be ascended; whence continue to the Tour de Maurifolet, and descend by the stair in the cliff to Perrier, pop. 600, among rocks pierced with caves, 3 m. from Issoire (p. 372).

386

Continuation of Route—Clermont to Brive.

14 m. S.W. from Laqueuille by rail, 54 m. S.W. from Clermont, and 68 m. N.E. from Brive, is Eyguirande, pop. 1150. Junction here with loop-line to Largnac, 30 m. S. Coach daily to Murat 41 m. S., passing Mauriac 12 m. S. (see Black’s _South France_, West Half).

31 m. S.W. from Eyguirande station is Meymac, pop. 3200, on the Lozege. Romanesque church, tower 15th cent.; remains of fortifications. Junction here with loop-line to Puy-Imbert, 9½ m. N., and close to Limoges. (See _South France_, West Half.)

Tulle. Brive-la-Gaillarde.

16¼ m. N.E. from Brive, and 105¾ m. S.W. from Clermont, is Tulle, pop. 15,500, on the Corrèze. _Hotels:_ Notre Dame; Lyon; Charles. Firearms and coarse woollens are made here, but not an inch of the fabric called tulle.

122 m. S.W. from Clermont, 311 m. S. from Paris, 156 m. N. from Toulouse, and 45 m. E. from Perigueux, is Brive-la-Gaillarde, pop. 12,000, on the Corrèze. _Hotels:_ Bordeaux; Toulouse (see Black’s _South France_, West Half).

387

INDEX.

When an Index entry is mentioned on more than one page, the primary reference is listed first. As in the rest of the text, links are visually coded; since everything in the Index is a hyperlink, color has been omitted. Visual details may be overridden by your browser settings, but the links will still work.

Most Index entries have direct anchors; the rest are linked to the top of the page. Page numbers in _b_ and _c_ indicate columns in the printed book; the location of the page number—left or right margin—depends on columns in the e-text.

A–Ap Ar–Av B–Be Bi–Br C–Ce Ch–Cl Co–Cr D E F–Flavigny Florence A-N Florence O-V Fo–Fr G–Ge Gi–Gu H I J La Le–Lu Lyons Ma Me–Mons Mont–Mu N–Ne Nice Nicholas–Ny O P–Pi Po–Pu Q R S–St. N St. P–San Saou-Su T–Turbie Turin U V–Ve Vi–Vo W

A–Ap Abries 344 Acqui 184 Agay 147 Aiguebelle 289 Aigueperse 368 Aigues-Mortes 73 Aiguilles 344 Aime 321 Aix-en-Provence 78, 338

olive oil 79

Aix-les-Bains 283 —— to Geneva by Annecy 286 Alacoque, M. M. 27 Alais 375 Alan 49 Alassio 208 Albenga 208 Albertville 320 —— to Annecy 320 Albissóla 210 Alesia 19

Alessandria 280

Alise-St. Reine 19 Allègre 89 Allevard-les-Bains 336 Allos 339 Alvernia 279 Alzon 105 Amberieux 281 Ambert 91 Amplepuis 348 Ampuis 81

wine 81

Amyot, Jacques 3 Ancy-le-Franc 18 Annecy 286 Annonay 81 Antibes 169, 154 Antraigues 94 Apricale 201 Aps 97 Apt 66

preserves 66

Ar–Av Aramon 99 Arenzano 211 Ardèche sketch of 45 —— coaches to 45 —— map of 46

387b

Ardes 373 Arezzo 279 Arfeuilles 346 Arlanc 90

Arles 68, 376

to Fontvieille 71

to Port Bouc 72

to Port St. Louis 72

to St. Gilles 72

Arma 207 Arsac 86 Artemart 282 Arvant 373 Aspres 48, 345 Astet 89 Asti 280 Aubagne 122 Aubenas 93 Aups 145, 167 Auribeau 156

Autun 24 Auxerre 14 Avallon 16 Avenza 222

Avignon 58

Benezet’s bridge 63

—— tomb 62

Hotels 58

Hôtel de Ville 61

J. S. Mill’s tomb 63

Laura’s tomb 62

Musée Calvet 61

Museum of Natural History 62

Notre Dame des Doms 60

Popes’ palace 58

Rocher des Doms 60

St. Agricol 61

St. Didier 62

St. Joseph 62

St. Nicolas 63

St. Pierre 62

to Manosque by Cavaillon 66

to Nîmes 64

to Vaucluse 64

to Villeneuve 63

B–Be

387c

Bagnoles-les-Bains 375 Bagnoles-sur-Ceze 99 Bains 91 Balaruc 76 Bandols 123 Banges 285 Bar 163

Barcelonnette 341

to Cuneo 341

to St. Paul 341

Bardonnecchia 291 Barjols 143, 167 Barrème 166

Baths—Acqui 184 —— Aix-les-Bains 283 —— Aix-en-Provence 78 —— Allevard 336 —— Bagnols 375 —— Balaruc 76 —— Bourboule 383 —— Bourbon-Lancy 358 —— Bourbon l’Archambault 357 —— Challes 284, 288 —— Châteauneuf 369 —— Châtelguyon 369 —— Chateldon 367 —— Cusset 365 —— Foncaude 75 —— Gréoulx 168 —— La Motte 327 —— Lucca 230 —— Marlioz 284 —— Mont-Dore 378 —— Neyrac 94 —— Pougues-les-Eaux 352 —— Royat 376 —— Sail 348

—— St. Alban 348 —— St. Galmier 348 —— St. Giuliano 227 —— St. Honoré 354 —— St. Mart 377 —— St. Nectaire 385 —— Uriage 336 —— Valdieri 181, 182 —— Vals 103 —— Vichy 359 —— Vinadio 183

388

Beage, Le 84 Beaucaire 67 Beauchastel 82 Beaufort 46 Beaujolais 29 Beaulieu 184 Beaune 23 Beaurières 48 Beausset 123

Bec-de-l’Homme 331 Becket, Thomas à 11, 15, 17 Bedoin 56 Belgentier 129 Bellentre 321 Belleville 29 Belvedère 181 Berarde 330 Berlingots 56 Bernadette Soubirous 353 Berre 77 Bersezio 342 Bessée 344 —— to Mt. Pelvoux 344 Besse-en-Chandesse 381 Beza, T. 15

Bi–Br Billom 350 Blaizy-Bas 20 Bobbio 306 Bogliasco 219 Boileau 2 Bollène 50

Bologna 315

Accademia 315

Ai Servi (church) 318

Annunziata 320

Biblioteca Communale 318

Bolognese school 315

Cabs 315

Certosa 320

Galvani 316

Guido’s grave 319

Madonna di S. Luca 320

Mezzofanti 316

Pal. Mercanzia 318

Pal. Zampieri 318

Picture gallery 315

S. Bartolommeo 318

S. Domenico 319

S. G. Maggiore 316

S. Petronio 317

S. Pietro 319

S. Stefano 318

S. Vitale 319

Torre Asinelli 317

Torre Garisenda 317

University 316

Bondonneau 49

388b

Bordighera 200 Bormes 142 Borne 89 Bossuet, J. B. 22 Bouillabaisse 113 Boulerie 147 Bourbon-Lancy baths 358 Bourbon-l’Archambault baths 357

Bourboule 383 Bourdeaux 47 Bourg-Argental 81 Bourg-d’Oisans 329 —— to Lac Blanc 329 —— to the Ecrin group 329 Bourgoin 322 Bourg-St. Andeol 97 Bourg-St. Maurice 321 Breuil, Le 373 Briançon 332 —— to Mt. Pelvoux 333, 345 —— to Oulx 333 Briare 352 Brignoles 142, 167 Brillane 339 Brioude 374 Brive 386 Brogny 287 Brunoy 2 Buffon, Comte de 18 Burgundy wines 22, 23, 24 Busalla 279 Bussoleno 291

C–Ce Cagnes 165 Callian 162 Camaldoli 278 Camargue 70, 72 Campo-Rosso 201 Cannes 149

Agents 149

Adalbert 151, 159

Antibes 154

Auribeau 156

Banks 151

Brougham, Lord 151, 155

Cabs 151

Californie 152

Canal 162, 152

Cannet 154

Castelaras 156

Cemetery 152

Churches 151

Clausonne 154

Climate 151

Corniche 152

Croisette, La 154

388c

Croix des Gardes 155

Drives 152

Estérels 155

Hesperide 154

Hotels and Pensions 149

Iron Mask 157

Lerins Islands 156

Mont Vinaigre 156

Mouans-Sartoux 156

Mougins 156

Cannes—

Napoule 154

N. D. d’Esperance 151

Observatories 151, 152

Pegomas 156

Pottery 153

St. Anne 151

St. Cassien 155

St. Honorat 158

St. Marguerite 157

Théoule 155

Vallauris 153

Carnoules 142 Carpentras 54

Carqueyranne 141

Mont Negre 141

Mont Paradis 141

Carrara 222 Casset, Le 332 Cassini, G. D. 201 Castellane 165 Castellaro 206 Cavaillon 66 Cayres 88 Celles-les-Bains 83 Cercy-la-Tour 25, 354 Certosa 184 Cervo 208 Cesanne 333 Cette 75 —— to Balaruc 76

Ch–Cl Chablis 14 Chabons 323 Chagny 24, 355 Chaise-Dieu 89 Challes 284, 288 Chalon-sur-Saône 26 Chambertin 23 Chambery 287 Chambon 380 Champeix 385 Charenton 2 Charmes 82 Charmettes, Les 288 Châteauneuf (Riom) 369 Châteauroux 343 Châtelard, Le 285 Chateldon 367 Châtelguyon 369 Châtillon 47

389

Châtillon (Lake Bourget) 282 Châtillon-sur-Loing 351 Châtillon-sur-Loire 352 Chavanay 81 Cheilard 83 Chenal 341

Chiavari 220 Chiomonte 291 Chorges 342 Cirque-d’Annibal 321 Citeaux abbey 23 Claix 328, 345 Clamecy 354, 15 Clelles 345

Clermont-Ferrand 369

Academie 371

Botanic gardens 371

Cathedral 370

Coaches 370

Hotels 369

Notre Dame 371

Pascal’s house 370

Peter the Hermit 371

Preserved fruits 370

Puy de Dome 372

Romagnat 372

to Brive by Mont-Dore-les-Bains and Bourboule 376

to Lyons by St. Etienne 349

Cluny 27

Co–Cr Cogoleto 210 Cogolin 145

Col Abriés 307 —— Braus 183 —— Brouis 183 —— Cabres 48 —— Cerise 181 —— Chavade 89 —— Croix 306 —— Finestra 181 —— Fremamorta 181 —— Lautaret 331 —— Longet 341 —— Maddalena 342 —— Maure 339 —— Moulières 181 —— Muselle 330 —— Mulo 342 —— Ribeyret 51 —— Sestrières 307 —— Tenda 183 —— Traversette 308, 344

Colla, La 202 Colmars 339 Collobrières 130 Columbus 211 Condamine-Châtelard 342 Condamine, La 189

389b

Condrieu 81

wine 81 Cornigliano 212 Corps 334 Correggio 313 Corsena 230 Cosne 352 Cote d’Or 22 Coupe-d’Aizac 94 Courmayeur 322 Courpière 91 Courty 350 Craponne 89 Cravant 14, 355 Crest 46 —— to Aspres 47 Crissolo 308, 344 Croisière, La 50 Croix Blanche 105 Cruseilles 287 Cruzy-le-Chatel 18 Cuers 130, 142 Culinary terms xxiii Culoz 282 Cuneo 182, 279, 308 —— to Barcelonnette 341 —— to Nice 182 Cusset 365

D Darcey 19 Darsac 89 —— to Chaise-Dieu 89 Dauphin, Le 331 Decize 25 Demonte 342 Dent de Nivolet 288 Dent-du-Chat 282 Diano Marina 208 Die 47 Dieulefit 47 Digne 166

Digoin 358 Dijon 20 Doctors’ fees 110 Dolce-Acqua 201 Domène 336 Dompierre-sur-Bebre 357 Donzère 50 Doussard 287 Draguignan 145 Duingt 287 Duke of Berwick 356 Duranus 180 Durtol 377

E Eaux Chaudes 166 Embrun 343 Enchastraye 330 Entraque 181 Epinac 24 Escragnolles 165

389c

Espaly 89

Estaque, L’ 80 Estérels 156, 146 Etang 25 Eugene Sué 286 Eyguirande 386 Eze 186

F Fayence 145 Fenestrelle 307 Feurs 346 Fiesole 276

Finalmarina 209 Fix-St. Geneys 91 Flavigny 19

Florence (A-N) Florence 233

Academy of Fine Arts 271

Alkermes 268

Alvernia 279

Amerigo Vespucci 275

Arcetri 248

Arezzo 279

Badia, La 263

Baptistery 256

Bargello 261

Bello Sguardo 250

Bibbiena 279

Bibliotheca Laurentiana 266

—— Nazionale 236

Bigallo, Il 257

Boboli Gardens 246

Brancacci chapel 252

Brunelleschi’s crucifix 268

Cab tariff 234

Camaldoli 278

Campanile 255

Cascine 276

Cathedral 252

Certosa 250

Dante 258

David, by Michael Angelo 272

Donatello’s crucifix 260

Duomo 252

Florence—

Galileo 247, 260

Galleria Uffizi 237

Gallery of mosaics 273

Guide books 234

Hawkwood, John 255

Hospital St. Giovanni 275

Hotels and apartments 233

House of Amerigo Vespucci 275

—— of Dante 274

—— of Galileo 248

390

—— of Macchiavelli 247

—— of Michael Angelo 263

Ketterick, John 259

Loggia Orcagna 235

Luca della Robbia ware 263

Masaccio 252

Money-changers 234

Monte Oliveto 251

Mortuary chapel 255

Mosaic manufacture 273

Museum of Etruscan Antiquities 267

—— Nat. Hist. 247

National Museum 261

Niobe 242

Florence (O-V) Florence—

Ognissanti 275

Or St. Michele 257

Palaces 273

Palazzo Corsini 275

—— Riccardi 275

—— Strozzi 275

—— Torrigiani 276

—— Vecchio 274

Park 276

Pazzi chapel 260

Perazzi chapel 259

Piazza S. Annunziata 269

—— S. Croce 258

—— Signoria 235

Piazzale Michelangiolo 249

Picture gallery of S. Marco 270

Pitti gallery 243

—— palace 246

Pontassieve 278

Porta Romana 248

Post office 236

Prefettura della Provincia 275

Protestant churches 234

Raphael 239

Refectory of S. Croce 261

Restaurants 234

Rucellai chapel 268

Florence—

Sagrestia Nuova 265

S. Annunziata 268

S. Croce 258

S. Giovannino 264

S. Lorenzo 264

S. Marco 270

S. Maria del Carmine 252 390b

S. Maria del Fiore 252

—— Novella 267

S. Michele 257

S. Miniato 249

S. Spirito 251

Sarto, Andrea del 269

Savonarola 270

Sights 234

Spezeria 268

Straw-plaiting 277

Torre del Gallo 248

Tribuna 238

—— di Galileo 247

Uffizi gallery 237

Vallombrosa 278

Venus de Medici 238

Views 250

Fo–Fr Foncaude baths 75 Fontainebleau 3 Fontana 183 Fontenay abbey 19 Forcalqueiret 129 Fos 76 Fourchambault 353

Freaux, Les 331 Frejus 146 Freney, Le 331 Frontignan 75

salt 75

wine 75

G–Ge Gallinaria 208 Gannat 368 Gap 340 —— to Barcelonnette 340 —— to Grenoble 342 Garabit, Pont de 374 Gardanne 142, 80, 338 —— to Carnoules 142 Genoa 212, 279

Accademia 216

Acquasola 216

Albergo dei Poveri 218

Cabs 213

Cafés 213

Campo-Santo 218

Cathedral 217

Corsos 213

English church 212

Hotels 212

Money-changers 213

Palazzo Adorno 216

—— Balbi 215

—— Doria 214

—— —— (Giorgio) 216

Genoa—

Palazzo Ducal 217

390c

—— Durazzo 215

—— Municipicio 216

—— Rosso 216

—— Serra 216

—— Spinola 216

Post office 216

Royal Palace 214

S. Ambrogio 217

S. Annunziata 215

S. Maria in Carignano 218

S. Matteo 217

S. Siro 215

Shops 212

Steamers 213

Telegraph office 213

Valdensian church 212

Via Circonvallazione 213

Via Milano 214 Gerbier-de-Joncs 84 Gevrey 23

Gi–Gu Giandola 183 Gien 351 Giens 140

La Madrague 141

Le Chateau 141

Salt works 141

Semaphore 141

Gières 336 Gilly 358 Givors-Canal 81, 349 Gleyzin glacier 337 Golf Jouan 169 Goncelin 336 Gonfaron 131 Gourdon 163 Grand Som 324 Grande-Chartreuse 323 Grande Combe 375 Grasse 160 Grave, La 331

Grenoble 324

Bastile 325

Bayard 325

Coaches 325, 327

Gloves 327

Hotels 324

Library 326

Picture gallery 326

St. André 325

St. Laurent 327

to Barcelonnette 341

to Briançon 328

to Corps 333

to Gap 342

391

to La Motte-les-Bains 327

to Sassenage 327

Gréoulx 167 Grignan 49 Grimaud 144 Guerigny 354 Guillestre 344

H Hautecombe Abbey 284 Hermitage wine 43 Hospice of Little St. Bernard 321

Hyères 133

Banks 133

Butterflies 139

Cabs 134

Caterpillars 139

Charles of Anjou 136

Château, Le 136

Climate 140

Clubs 134

Cork trees 139

Costebelle 136

Drives 134

English Pharmacy 133

Episcopal Chapel 133

Fenouillet, Mont 137

Game 138

Hermitage 136

Hotels 133

Hyères—

Jardin d’Acclimatation 136

La Plage 140

Map 129

Massillon 135

Napoleon I. 136

Oiseaux Monts 138

Olive trees 138

Palm sticks 108

Palms 136

Paradis Mont 141

Pauline, La 142

Pipes 139

Potence 139

Productions 139

St. Louis 136

St. Paul 135

Stage coaches 134

Temple Protestant 133

Town water 139

Trou des Fées 138

View from Le Château 137

I Iles de Lerins 157 Iles d’Or 131 Il Serraglio 230

391b

Issoire 372

coach to St. Nectaire 385

Isola Buona 201 Istres 76 Italian railway terms and time-tables 291, 200

J Jaujac 95 Jausiers 342 Javie 339 Jean-Sans-Peur 10, 20, 22

Joigny 14 Jouques 79 Joyeuse 96

La La Balme 282 La Barben 79 La Bastide 375 La Begude 93 La Bollene 181 La Chalp 306 La Chambre 289 La Charité 352 La Ciotat 122 La Crau 130 La Garde 128, 130 La Garde Fraiseinet 144 La Madrague 141 La Monta 344 La Mothe 94 La Palisse 346, 368 La Pauline 142 La Roche 14 La Salle 334 La Salette 334 La Sauvetat 88 La Seyne 123 La Valette 128 La Voulte 82

Lachamp-Raphael 84 Laffrey 333

Lagnieu 282 Laigueglia 208 Lake Allos 339 —— Annecy 286 —— Bourget 282 —— Paladru 323 —— Pavin 381 —— Thau 76 Lamartine 27 Lambesc 80 Langeac 375, 91 Langogne 375, 95 —— to Le Puy 88 Lans-le-Bourg 290 Lantosque 180 Laqueuille 377 —— to Mont-Dore, 377 —— to Bourboule, 377 Larche 342

391c

Largentière 96 —— to Les Laumes 14 Larzac 106 Laudun 99 Laurent-du-Pont 323 Lauzet 331 Lauzet, Le 341 Lavandou 143

Le–Lu Le Barroux 57 Le Beage 84 Le Bouchet 88 Le Buis 57 Le Creusot 25 Le Monastier 85 Le Pal 96 Le Peage de Roussillon 43 Le Pouzin 92 Le Puy 86 Le Teil 93 Le Trayas 149

Leghorn 226 Lemons 191, 194, 201 Lerici 221 Les Arcs 145 Les Baux 67 Les Etables 85 Les Etages 330 Les Laumes 19 Les Marches 289, 338 Les Piles 51 Les Saintes Maries 72 Les Salins 141 Leschaux 287

Levant, Ile du 132 Levens 180 Limone 183 L’Isle 64 Livet 329 Livron 46 Loano 209 Lorgues 145 Lord Clarendon 356 Lovagny 286 Luc 144 Lucca 227

Cabs 227

Cathedral 228

Hotels 227

Picture gallery 228

S. Frediano 229

S. Michele 229

Luc-en-Diois 48 Lunel 72

wine 73 Lurs 339 Luserna 305 Luzy 25

Lyons

392

Lyons 29

Antiquaille Hospital 33

Aqueduct 34

Boats, Penny 31

Bourse 38

Cabs 30

Cathedral 34

Cheese 42

Condition des Soies 37

Distances 29

First sewing-machine 38

Flourvière 32

History 41

Hospice 39

Hôtel de Ville 37

—— Dieu 39

Hotels 29

Ile Barbe 42

Jacquard’s loom 38

Libraries 37, 38

Minerals 37

Mont Ceindre 41

—— d’Or 42

Musée Archéologique 36

—— Guimet 40

—— Lapidaire 35

—— of Silk 38

Notre Dame 33

Lyons—

Observatoire Gay 33

Palais de Justice 35

—— des Beaux Arts 35

Park 40

Picture gallery 36

Place des Terreaux 37

Post office 30

Préfecture 37

Railway station 30

St. Bruno 37

St. Irénée 34

St. Martin d’Ainay 39

St. Nizier 35

St. Paul 33

St. Pierre 35

St. Polycarpe 37

Sights 32

Silk museum 38

Squares (Places) 32

Steamers 31

Tête d’Or 40

Theatres 31

to Nîmes 81

Trams 31

Weavers 40

Workhouse (Hospice) 39

Ma Macon 26

wines 24

392b

Maisons-Alfort 2 Malaucene 57 Manosque 168, 66, 166, 339 Marcols 84 Marlioz 284

Marseilles 111, 80

Anglican chapel 112

Arc de Triomphe 116

Biblothèque 117

Bishop Belsunce 116

Boats 112

Bonneveine 113

Bouillabaisse 113

Bourse 116

Cabs 111

Canal 77

Cathedral 115

Charities 119

Château Borely 113

Commerce 120

Consigne 115

Corniche 113

Custom-house 112

École des Beaux Arts 117

History 120

Hôtel de Ville 115

Hotels 111

If, island of 118

Industries 119

Marseilles—

Joliette 115

Lazarus’s grave 119

Lycée 117

Marseillaise, the 120

Martigues 118

Money-changers 112

Musée d’Archéologie 113

Notre Dame 117

Observatory 115

Palais de Justice 116

—— Longchamp 114

Port 115

Préfecture 116

Reservoir 115

St. Victor 117

Sights 112

Steamboats 112

Temple 112

to Grenoble 338

to Menton 112

Trams 113

Zoological garden 115

Martinet 341 Mary Magdalene 124, 145 Massa 223 Maurin 341 Mayres 94, 89

Me–Mons Meana 291 Meije 331 Melun 2 Menthon 287

392c

Menton 193

Annunciata 196

Banks 194

Bennet garden 197

Berceau 196

Cabs 194

Cape St. Martin 195

Castellar 196

Castellon 199

Caves 195

Churches 194

Ciotti 197

Climate 199

Gorvio 197

Gourg-d’Ora 197

Grimaldi 197

Hanbury grounds 197

Hotels 193

Mont Baudon 196

Monti 198

Mortola 197

St. Agnese 196

—— (village) 197

St. Louis 196

to Genoa 199

Meounes 129 Meursault 24 Meymac 386 Meyrargues 80 Meze 76 Mezillac 84 Mirabeau 338 Mirabouc 306 Miramas 76 —— to Port Bouc 76 Modane 290 —— by road to Susa 290

Modena 313

Campanile 314

Cathedral 314

Library 314

Museo Lapidario 315

Picture gallery 314

Moirans 324 Monaco 187 Monastier, Le 85 Mondoví 184, 304 Monestier de Clermont 345 Monètier de Briançon 332 Monge, Gaspard 23 Monistrol-d’Allier 91 Mons cave 163

Mont–Mu Mont Agel 192 —— Aulas 105 —— Auxois 19 —— Belledonne 336 —— Cenis 290 —— —— Hospice 290 —— Chenavari 93 —— Coudon 128, 125 —— Faron 127

393

—— Ferrand 331 —— Genèvre 333 —— Gergovia 372 —— Grand Sambiu 79 —— Gravenne 96 —— Meidassa 305, 344 —— Mezenc 85 —— Pelvoux 345, 333, 344 —— Pilat 348 —— Pirchiriano 291 —— Protomagno 278 —— Sancy 381 —— Semnoz 287 —— Taillefer 329 —— Ventoux 57, 56 —— Vestide 96 —— Viso 344, 305 Montagnac 88 Montallieu 281 Montargis 351 Montauroux 162

Montbard 18 Montbrison 349 Montchanin 25 Mont-Dore-les-Bains 378 —— to Issoire 385 —— to St. Nectaire 385 Mont Dauphin 343, 306, 307 —— to Saluzzo 344 Monte Carlo 189, 192 Monte Grosso 210 Montélimart 48 Montereau 10 Montgeron 2 Mont-Majour 71 Montmélian 167, 289, 338

Montpellier 73

École de Médecine 74

Musée Fabre 74

to Palavas 75

wine 75 Montpezat 96 Montrieux 129 Moret 10 Mornas 46 Moulins 355 ——, Les 190 Moustiers Ste. Marie 167 Moutiers on Doron 320 Mure, La 334, 342 Murols 382

N–Ne Napoleon I. 64 Napoule 156 Narce 89, 94 Nervi 219

Neussargues 374 Nevers 353 Neyrac 94

Nice Nice 169

Banks 172

Booksellers 172

Cabs 173

Cafés 172

Carabacél 177

Caterina Segurana 176

Cathedral 176

Château, Le 175

Churches 173

Cimiés 177

Climate 174

Clubs 172

Column 177

Confectioneries 173

Contes 174

Crois-de-Marbre 177

Diligences 173

Drives 178

Falicon 180

Garibaldi 176

Hotels and Pensions 170

House agents 172

Jardin Public 178

Nice—

Luther 176

Massena 177

Memorial chapel 176

393b

Money-changers 172

Mont Chauve 179

Monte Carlo 178

Museum 178

Observatory 180

Paganini 176

Palais de Lascaris 176

Pharmacies 172

Post office 172

Promenade 175

Protestant churches 173

Public library 172

St. André 179

St. Augustin 176

St. Jean 178

St. Pons 179

Val Obscur 178

Vallon des Fleurs 179

Vallons 174

Villa Clery 179

Villefranche 184, 178

Nicholas–Ny Nicholas V. 221 Nieigles 95 Nîmes 101, 376 —— to Vigan 105 Nolay 24 Noli 209

Novi 279 Nuits 23 Nuits-sous-Ravieres 18 Nyons 50 —— to Serres 51

O 393c

Olbon 83 Olliergues 91 Ollioules 123 Olive tree 138 Orange 51 —— Prince of 52

Orcival 380 Orgon 66 Ortolans 56 Ospedaletti 202, 201 Oulx 291, 333 Ours-Mons 88

P–Pi Palavas 75 Paradisino 278 Paray-le-Monial 27 Paris to Lyons by St. Etienne 346 —— to Marseilles 1 —— Directions 1 —— to Marseilles by Clermont and Nîmes 351 —— to Marseilles by Lyons 1 —— to Turin by Aix-les-Bains 281 —— to Turin by Grenoble 322 Parma 310 Parmesan cheese 313 Pas-des-Lanciers 376, 80, 88

Pegli 211 Pelago 278 Pelussin 81 Perinaldo 201 Perosa 307 —— to Cesanne 307 —— to Mont-Dauphin 307 Pertuis 338, 77 Petite Afrique 186 Petrarch 65

Peyerbelle 95, 89 Peyraud 81 Peyrolles 79 Piacenza 309 Pian Fiorenza 308 —— del Ré 308 Pierre-Chatel 334 Pierrefeu 130 Pietrasanta 223 Pigna 201 Pinerolo 306

Pisa 223

Baptistery 225

Cabs 224

Campo Santo 225

Cathedral 224

Hotels 223

Leaning Tower 225

394

Post office 224

Santa Maria 226

University 226

Pistoja 231

Po–Pu Polignac 89 Pomaretto 307 Pomponiana 143 Pontaix 47 Pontassieve 277

Pont Avignon 99 —— d’Arc 97 —— de-la-Beaune 95 —— du-Gard 104 —— Ecofier 329 —— Gibaud 377 —— St. Esprit 98

Pontcharra 337 Pontigny 16 Pontius Pilate 43 Porquerolles 131

Port Bouc 76 —— —— to Arles 76 —— Cros 132 —— Grau du Roi 73 —— Man 132 —— St. Louis 72

Porto Maurizio 207 —— Oneglia 208 —— Venere 220 Portofino 220 Pougues-les-Eaux 352 Pouilly-sur-Loire 352 Pourcheyrolles 95 Pouzin 92 Pra 211 Pradelles 89, 95 Prades (Ardèche) 95 Prato 232 Praz 289 Pré-St Didier 321 Prices 109 Privas 92 Puget, Pierre 80 Puget-Theniers 182 Puligny 24 Puy-de-Dome 372

Q Queyras 344

Quincy abbey 18

R Randan 366, 368 Rapallo 220 Reggio Emilia 313 Remoulins 99 Resin baths 57, 48 Rians 79 Riez 166, 168 Riom 369 Riouperoux 329 Rioutort 96

394b

Ris 367 Rives 323

Riviera, the 107

Climate 108

Cost of living 109

road to 1

Vegetation 108

Roanne 346, 348 Robilante 183 Rocavignon 160

Roche Cevins 320 Rochemaure 92 Rocher Blanc 164 —— Noir 165 Rognac 77, 376 —— to Aix-en-Provence 77 —— to Roquefavour 77 Romaneche 28 Roquebillère 181 Roquebrune 192 Roquefavour aqueduct 77 Roquemaure 99 Roquotaillado tunnel 162 Rosans 51 Roumoulles 168 Rousseau, J. J. 288, 287 Rouvray 16 Royat 376 Ruoms 96 Ruota 201

S–St. N Saillans 47 Sail-les-Bains 348 Saincaize 355 St. Agnan 358 St. Agnes 131 St. Alban 348 St. Ambroix 96 St. André-le-Gaz 322 —— to Chambery 322 St. Auban 339, 166 St. Baume (Agay) 147 —— (Bouches du Rhône) 144 St. Bernard 27, 287 St. Cannat 79 St. Cesaire 162 St. Chamas 76, 376 St. Christophe 330 St. Cyre 123 St. Didier 57 St. Edmund 17 St. Etienne 346, 349

manufactories of muskets, pistols, swords, and ribbons 346, 347 St. Eulalie 96 St. Florentin 16 —— to Chablis 16

St. Galmier 346, 348

394c

St. Georges-d’Aurac 91, 374 St. Germain 321 St. Germain-au-Mont d’Or 29 St. Germain-des-Fossés 358 St. Gilles 72 St. Honorat 158 St. Honoré baths 354 St. Honoré-les-Bains 25, 354 St. Jean 185 St. Jean du Bruel 106 St. Julien-du-Sault 13 St. Louis (king) 73 St. Marcel caves 98 St. Marcellin 324 —— to Pont-en-Royan, 324 St. Marguerite 157 St. Mart 377 St. Martin 98 St. Martin-Lantosque 181 St. Maurice 2, 50 St. Maximin 143 St. May 51 St. Menet 122 St. Michael (Mont Cenis) 289 St. Nazaire 123 St. Nectaire 385

St. P–San St. Pardoux 357 St. Paul-Trois-Château 50 St. Péray 82

wine 82 St. Pêre 15 St. Pierre-d’Albigny 289 —— to Annecy 289 —— to Courmayeur 320 St. Pierre-d’Argenson 48 St. Pierreville 83 St. Pilon 144 St. Pons 341 St. Priest 322 St. Privat 91 St. Rambert-d’Albon 43

St. Raphael 147 St. Remi-en-Rollat 368 St. Remy 67 St. Sauveur 83 St. Seine 19 St. Thomé 97 St. Tropez 145 St. Vallier 165, 43 St. Yorre 366

Salon 66 Saluzzo 307, 344 —— to Cuneo 307 —— to Mont Dauphin 308 —— to Paesana 308 —— to Sampeyre 308, 344

395

Sampierdarena 212 San Ambrogio (Mt. Cenis) 291 San Chiaffredo 308 San Dalmazzo 308 San Giuliano 227

San Remo 203

Cabs 203

Ceriana 204

Climate 204

Hotels 203

Madonna 205

Monte Bignone 205

Poggio 204

St. Romolo 205

—— to Taggia 207

San Stefano 207 San Terenzo 221 Sancerre 352

Santa Margherita 220

Saou–Su Saou 46 Sarzana 221 Sassenage 327 Sauclières 105 Saugues 91 Saulieu 16 Saut-du-Loup 373 Savigny 24 Savines 343 Savona 209 Sea bathing 110 Séchilienne 329 Seez 321 Seine, source of 19 Semur 16 Senez 166 Sens 10 Sept Laux 337 Sermizelles 15 Serres 340, 51 Serrières 81

Sestri Levante 220 —— Ponente 212 Settignano 277 Seyne-les-Alpes 339

Shelley 221, 223 Sisteron 339 Six-Fours 123 Solliès-Pont 142, 129 Solliès-Ville 129, 142 Sorgues 54 Sospello 182 Source of the Loire 84 Souvigny 356 Spezia 220 Steam trams 304 Sue du Pal 96 Susa 291 Suze-le-Rousse 50

T–Turbie

395b

Taggia 207, 206 Tain 43 Talloires 286 Tanlay 17 Tarascon 66, 376

Martha’s grave 67 Taulignan 49 Tavernettes, Les 290 Teil 93 Tenay 282 Tenda 183 Termignon 290

Theoule 155 Thezièrs 99 Thiers 367, 350 Thomery 10 Thueyts 94 Thuile 321 Tonnerre 17 Torre-Péllice 305 —— to Mont Dauphin 306

Toulon 124

Arsenal 125

Bagne 125

Balaguier 127

Belle-Poule 124

Cap Brun 128

Cathedral 126

Dardenne 128

Toulon—

Diligences 129

Hotels 124

Le Pradet 128

Le Tamaris 127

Mont Faron 127

Omnibuses 128, 124

Port, the 124

Puget’s house 126

Rue Lafayette 126

St. François de Paule 126

St. Mandrier 127

St. Marguerite 128

Smith, Sir Sydney 126

Temple Protestant 124

Town Hall 126

Tour-du-Pin 322 Tournon 82 Tournus 26 Trayas, Le 148 Trets 144 Trévoux 29 Trinité-Victor 182 Troy weight 13 Troyes 11 Truffles 55 Tulle 386 Turbie, La 192, 191

Turin

395c

Turin 292

Accademia Albertina 300

Armoury 297

Biblioteca del Ré 297

Booksellers 293

Cabs 292

Cafés 293

Castello, the 299

Cathedral 298

Cavour house 294

—— monument 301

Cemetery 302

Gran Madre di Dio 300

Gressini 303

Hotels 292

King’s palace 298

La Consolata 301

Medagliere del Ré 297

Money-changers 293

Monuments 301, 293

Museo Civico 299

Museum of antiquities and picture gallery 294

Museum of zoology and mineralogy 297

Turin—

Palazzo Carignano 297

—— dell’ Accademia delle Scienze 294

—— di Citta 301

Piazza Carlo Felice 293

—— dello Statuto 293

—— San Carlo 293

—— Vitt. Emanuele 300

Post and telegraph offices 293

Railway stations 293

Superga, La 302

Teatro Regio 298

Theatres 293

to Cuneo 153

to Florence 309

to Genoa 279

to Savona 183

Trams 292

University 300

Via di Po 300

Wines 303

U Ubaye 341 Uriage baths 336

Usclades 96 Uzès 99

V–Ve Vaison 53 Val Louise 333, 345 Valbonne 98

396

Valdieri 181, 182 Valence 44 —— coaches from 45 Vallauris 154 Valleraugue 105 Vallombrosa 278 Vallon 97 Valréas 49 Vals 93 Var 169 Varazze 210 Varennes 26 Varzy 354

Vassivières 381 Vaucluse 64 Vaugris 43 Velars 20 Venanson 181 Vence 163 Vence-Cagnes 169 Vencigliato 277 Venosc 330 Ventimiglia 200 Vernet 91 —— (Digne) 339

396b

Verrey 19 Vesseaux 93 Veynes 340 Vezelay 15

Vi–Vo Viareggio 223 Vichy 359 Vienne 42 Vif 345 Vigan 105 —— to Millau 105 Villa Pallavicini 211 Villard-d’Arène 331 Villefort 375 —— to Bagnol-les-Bains 375 Villefranche 184 Villefranche-sur-Saône 29 Villeperdrix 51 Ville-la-Vieille 344 Villeneuve-les-Avignon 63

Hospital 63

Marchioness de Ganges 63 Villeneuve-St. George 2

396c

Villeneuve-sur-Yonne 13

Vinadio 183, 342 Virieu 322 Virieu-le-Grand 282 Viviers 97 Vizille 345, 328, 333 Voghera 309 Voiron 323

coach to the Grande Chartreuse 323 Voltri 211 Volvic 377, 369 Volx 339 Voreppe 324

coach to the Grande Chartreuse 324 Vougeot 23 Voulte, La 82 Voute-Chilhac 91

W Waldenses, or Vaudois 305 Waldensian valleys 304

Warrens, Mme. 286, 288 Wellington 2

THE END.

_Printed by R. & R. Clark, Edinburgh._

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The South of France—East HalfChapter XXV: Part II: Modane to Turin (6)

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