Chapter II: Preface: To the Second Edition

One thousand copies, which constituted the First Edition of this work, having been disposed of within six months, I cannot allow another to go forth without expressing the satisfaction I feel at the liberal encouragement it has met with, and the gratitude I entertain towards my English readers for their indulgence towards it. My acknowledgments are also due to the Press, for the very favourable notices with which it has been invariably honoured by them.

The same hope which animated my labours, and induced me to present them to the public, still cheers me on, namely, that of engaging the attention and exciting the interest of the English nation in the fate and prospects of Syria, my beloved country: a land dear to every thinking mind from its sacred associations, and richly meriting the attention of the man of business and the traveller, from its undeveloped material resources, and from its picturesque beauty and healthy climate.

I can only allude to, in order to deplore, the state of war which now agitates and exhausts it; but in whatever manner the dispute may be settled, I have confidence that England and France will see justice done to an outraged country; and also, that the patriotic cause of our government will finally triumph over its enemies; for, under the generous and tolerant sway of Abdul Medjid Khan, and his enlightened ministers, far more is to be effected for the welfare of every class of his subjects, than are likely to arise from the interference of any foreign power; and I am sure that the more intelligent portion of the Orthodox Greek population are fully aware of this, and that they are, as they ought to be, loyally disposed towards the Sultan, their sovereign.

As I am now on the eve of quitting England for the East, I take this opportunity of publicly giving expression to my heartfelt sense of the uniform kindness and courtesy I have met with from all ranks in this mighty empire; also, of once more expressing the earnest hope, that when this present contest shall have ceased, British energy, philanthropy, and capital, may be induced to promote the commercial and educational development of the population and resources of my native land. She possesses many natural treasures—she is eager for improvement—she is not far distant.

If to this end the following pages shall have, even in the smallest degree contributed, I shall enjoy the high gratification of believing that neither my life nor my labour has been in vain.

Many inaccuracies, I regret to say, occurred in the First Edition; these I have done my best to correct. Should any (I trust no material ones) have still escaped me, I must crave my reader’s indulgence for them.

_London_, _Feb._ 11, 1854.

CONTENTS.

PAGE INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 1 CHAPTER I. Reminiscences of early Childhood—My Birth-place—Sheikh 5 Faris Biridi—Early Tuition—Family Customs—Position of Shuay-fât, and Pastures—Inhabitants—Author quits for Beyrout CHAPTER II. Beyrout—Piratical Attack—Flight to Mountains—Effects of 14 the Assault upon the Inhabitants CHAPTER III. Damascus—Author’s First visit to—Description of the 18 Town—The Inhabitants—The Customs and Manners—The Ladies—Their Beauty and Freedom—Court-yards and Houses—Bazaars—Environs—Soirées—Games—Specimens of Poetry and Songs—Wonderful Legend—Refreshments—Entertainment given by the British Consul—Privileges of Christians—Padre Tomaso—American and British Missions—Population—Antiquity—Ravages by Cholera CHAPTER IV. Return to Beyrout—American Mission—Original Difficulties 41 they encountered—How overcome—The Estimation of Physicians—Anecdote of Mr. Zohrab—American Doctors—Introduction to School—Reminiscences of School-days—Anecdote of Sheikh Ahmed—Lists of Missionaries—Adventure of Mr. Bird—The Pacha’s Revenge—Description of the Rise of the Settlement and trade at Beyrout—Climate, Hints with regard to CHAPTER V. Visit to Cyprus—Description of Voyage—Arrival at 57 Larnaca—Visit to Nicosia and other towns—Cyprus Wines—Languages—Departure for Tersous—Arrival at Mersine—Scenery in Cilicia—Gardens—Buildings of Tersous—Streets—Climate—Inhabitants—Signor Michael Saba—Adana—Its Shops and Streets—Inhabitants—Fanaticism—Revolts—Pacha’s Service—The Pass of Kulek Bughas—Scenery—Departure for Ayas CHAPTER VI. Ayas to Scanderoon—Scanderoon to Aleppo—Description of 71 Journey—The Aleppines—Their Style and Polish—A Wedding described—Syrian Step-mothers—Jewish and Christian quarters—Earthquake of 1822—Pastimes and Garden Parties—Population—Commerce—Departure for Antioch—Gessir il Haded—Orontes—Antioch CHAPTER VII. Antioch—Its Beauty and Fruitfulness—Visit to Suedia and 85 Lattakia—Signor Mosi Elias—Hardships endured by Consular Agents—Anecdote of English Travellers—Uses and Abuses of the Protection System—Fanaticism of Moslem Populace—Produce—Lattakia to Tripoli—Oranges—Abu Rish—Signor Catsoflis—A fair Intercessor for Justice to the Injured—Results of the Appeal—Cedars of Lebanon—Baalbec—Anecdote of English Forces—Turjaman Bashi—Strange Character of Sayid Ali—Damascus—Djouni and Sidon—Lady Hesther—General Loustannau—Description of Sidon—Bombardment of St. Jean d’Acre—Kaipha and Mount Carmel—Mistaken Ideas of Love CHAPTER VIII. First visit to England—Sail for Malta—Miseries of 122 Seasickness—Arrival at Malta—The Emir Beschir—Late Bishop of Jerusalem—Steam Frigate Gorgon—Arrival at Portsmouth—Rev. Baptist Noel—London—Souvenir of Wimbledon—A Duel prevented—Anecdote of Druse Sheikh—Return to Syria—Sir George Otway—Arrival at Beyrout—War between Druses and Maronites—Stamboul—Emir Kasim, his History—Lord Cowley—Dr. Bennett—Mr. Goodall—Return to England—Malta—Marseilles—Adventure with French Officer—M. Guizot—Suliman Pacha—M. Thiers—Delicate Mission—Arrival in England—Prince Callimaki—Mr. Zohrab—Mr. B. Phillips—King’s College, London—Medical Profession—Lectures—Frightful Accident—Long Illness—Admission as Member of King’s College—The Mir Shahamet Ali and Sir C. Wade—Visit to Manufacturing Districts—Lamartine CHAPTER IX. Visit to Paris—First Impressions—Boulevards—Champs 164 Elysées—Description of a Lodging-house—Domestic Habits of the French—English and French Friendship—Departure for Constantinople _viâ_ Vienna CHAPTER X. Reminiscences of Stamboul—Entertainments—Songs—The Tailor 170 and the Sultan—The Sultan’s Condescension—Marriage of the Daughter of Prince Vogiredis—Turkish Navy—Present Crisis—A Renegade Girl CHAPTER XI. Egypt—Abbas Pasha and his Improvements—The British 184 Consul-General—Mr. Abet—Mr. Larking—Boghas Bey—Antiquities—Climate—Library—Advantages enjoyed by European Residents—Festivities—Fulfilment of Prophecy—Late Gift of Horses presented by Nubar Bey to her Majesty—The Hon. G. Massey—Impressions made on the Grooms