Chapter XII

Visit to Devonshire, Bath, and Cheltenham—Visit to Lady 197 Rolle—Description of Bicton—Travelling by an Express Train—A Coachman’s Remarks—The Park—Arrival and Reception—Description of my Life—My Portrait taken—Amusements—Conversation with Mrs. P--- of Exeter about the Greek Church—English Young Ladies—Cottage Visiting—Buildings erected by Lady Rolle at Bicton—Amusing Anecdote of an Eastern Princess—Drive to Exeter—Equipage—Cathedral—Frescoes—Gaol—Child in Prison there—Female Department—Villagers’ Opinions of me—Bath—Beauties of Country reminded me of Syria—Springs—Arrival—Sir Claude Wade—Tour of the City—Society—Diversity of Religious Opinions—Service—Soirée—Agreeable Rencontre—Second Visit to Bath—Bachelor’s Ball—Lady Mayoress’s Ball at the Guildhall—Recognition as a Free-mason—Invitation to “The Lodge of Honour” to meet the Mayor—Meeting with Dr. Thompson—Lecture—Quoted from the Paper—Visit to Cheltenham—Rev. J. Brown—Rev. C. H. Bromley—Meeting—My Address—Appeal to send over for, and educate young Syrians at the Normal College at Cheltenham—Case of a young Syrian Lad—Lord Northwick—His Collection of Paintings—Conclusion—Reasons for appearing before the Public as an Author CHAPTER XIII. Impressions of England—Letters to a Friend in the 216 East—Voyage to England—Landing—Custom-house—Crowded Thoroughfares—English Activity—Hotel—Servants—Drive—Motley Groups—Squares—Park—Houris—Heart-aches—Dinner—English Splendour, but Syrian Ease and a Chibuk preferred—English Acquaintances—Society—Young Ladies—Their Freedom—Matrons—Their Acquirements—Etiquette—Dress—Widows—Gentlemen—English Sabbath—Public Schools and Colleges—The Queen—Missionary and Charitable Institutions—Great Wealth of the English—The Merchants—The Fashionable World—The Opera—Expensive Pleasure—Insatiable Craving for Riches—Desire for an English Home—Marriages—Children—Schooling—Absence of Reverence for Beards—Devotion of the Young Fair Sex to Uniforms—Kindness to Strangers—Interest in the Holy Land—Hospitality—Private Worth and Public Scheming CHAPTER XIV. Life, Manners, and Customs of Syria—Ceremonies at 233 Births—Christian Names—Remedies for Infantile Diseases—Early Instruction and Training—Syrian Manners—Reverential Treatment of Priests—Personal Cleanliness—Education—Betrothal—Marriage—Polygamy of Mahommedans—Education of Girls—Household Maxims—Domestic Snakes—Mourning for the Dead—A Lover’s Lament CHAPTER XV. Syria and her Inhabitants—Description of the Southern 259 parts of Palestine—The Misery of its Inhabitants—Their Disposition and Labours—Sea-coast Population—Their Habits—Scriptural Analogy—Sidon, Lebanon, Tripoli, Lattakia and Antioch—The Children of those Parts—Appeal to the British on behalf of Syria—Real State of the Turkish Empire—Safety of English Investments—The Turkish Dominions—How to purchase Property—English Emigrants would be welcomed in Syria—Mr. John Barker—Colonel Churchill—Lady Hester Stanhope—Fruits—Cultivation of the Soil—Advantages for the English Emigrant and Amelioration for Syria—Major Macdonald—His Discovery of Turquoises and Presentation of some to the Queen—Advice to Emigrants—All Particulars and Expenses of Voyage explained, Outlay, Working, Expenditure and Profits derivable—Climate recommended for Health CHAPTER XVI. Syria, her Inhabitants and their Religion—Religious 279 Teaching in Syria—American Missionaries—Their Zeal—Greek or Orthodox Eastern Church—Interview and Conversation with the Patriarch and Bishops at Constantinople—Letter from Syria—The Conversion of the Son of a Mufti to Christianity—Lord Shaftesbury and the Protestant College at Malta—Mahommedan Power and the Christian Churches in Syria—Claims of the Orthodox Eastern Church and its Affinity to the Protestant Churches of England—The Four Patriarchs—Education of the Syrian Priesthood—The Service of the Orthodox Eastern Church—Dissenters from it—Account of Karolus their Patriarch—Dispute about the Head-dress and reference to Constantinople—Decision—Jealousies of the Christian Sects—Political Animosities CHAPTER XVII. The Maronites—Their Political Position—Anecdote connected 299 with the Year 1821—Their Customs, Manners, and Religion—The Number of Roman Catholics in Syria—The Copts—The Nestorians CHAPTER XVIII. The Population of Syria continued—The Metoulis or 317 Heterodox Followers of Mahommed—The Druses—The Nosairiyeh—The Yezidees CHAPTER XIX. Appearance and Costume of the People—The Aleppine 338 Greeks—The Dyers—The Armenians—The Yahoodee or Israelites—The Turkish Effendi—The Bedouins—The Fellaheen CHAPTER XX. The Occupations of the People—Lebanon in April—The 352 Mulberry Plantations—Anecdote—The Silkworms—The Wheat Harvest—Borghol—The Vintage—The Olive Winter—The Resources of Syria—The Small Capitalists in Syria CHAPTER XXI. The Comparative Influences of the Roman Catholic and 370 Protestant Faiths in Syria—The Roman Catholics—Their Convents—Greek and Armenian Monasteries—The Knowledge and Practice of Medicine—The Influence of the Hakeem—Anecdote—Conversions—The Sisters of Charity