Chapter VII: Book I (5)

We lay here five days, which time was employed in wooding and watering (which is easily got), and overhauling the rigging. We found the country very pleasant; the soil a black, rich, though thin one; the sides of the hills covered with large trees, and very thick, growing to a great height before they branch off. They are, all of them, of the Evergreen kind, different from any I ever saw; the wood is very brittle and easily split; there is very little variety of sorts, having seen but two. The leaves of one are long and narrow; and the seed (of which I got a few) is in the shape of a button, and has a very agreeable smell. The leaves of the other are like the bay, and it has a seed like the white thorn, with an agreeable spicy taste and smell. Out of the trees we cut down for fire-wood, there issued some gum, which the surgeon called gumlac. The trees are mostly burnt, or scorched near the ground, occasioned by the natives setting fire to the under-wood in the most frequented places; and by these means they have rendered it easy walking. The land birds we saw, are a bird like a raven; some of the crow kind, black, with the tips of the feathers of the tail and wings white, their bill long and very sharp; some paroquets; and several kinds of small birds. The sea-fowl are ducks, teal, and the sheldrake. I forgot to mention a large white bird, that one of the gentlemen shot, about the size of a large kite of the eagle kind. As for beasts, we saw but one, which was an _opossum_; but we observed the dung of some, which we judged to be of the deer kind. The fish in the bay are scarce; those we caught were mostly sharks, dog fish, and a fish called by the seamen nurses, like the dog fish, only full of small white spots; and some small fish not unlike sprats. The lagoons (which are brackish) abound with trout, and several other sorts of fish, of which we caught a few with lines, but being much encumbered with stumps of trees, we could not haul the seine.

While we lay here, we saw several smokes and large fires, about eight or ten miles in shore to the northward, but did not see any of the natives; though they frequently come into this bay, as there were several wigwams or huts, where we found some bags and nets made of grass, in which I imagine they carry their provisions and other necessaries. In one of them there was the stone they strike fire with, and tinder made of bark, but of what tree could not be distinguished. We found in one of their huts, one of their spears, which was made sharp at one end, I suppose, with a shell or stone. Those things we brought away, leaving in the room of them, medals, gun-flints, a few nails, and an old empty barrel with the iron hoops on it. They seem to be quite ignorant of every sort of metal. The boughs, of which their huts are made, are either broken or split, and tied together with grass in a circular form, the largest end stuck in the ground, and the smaller parts meeting in a point at the top, and covered with fern and bark; so poorly done that they will hardly keep out a shower of rain. In the middle is the fire-place, surrounded with heaps of muscle, pearl scallop, and cray-fish shells; which I believe to be their chief food, though we could not find any of them. They lie on the ground, on dried grass, round the fire; and, I believe, they have no settled place of habitation (as their houses seemed built only for a few days), but wander about in small parties from place to place in search of food, and are actuated by no other motive. We never found more than three or four huts in a place, capable of containing three or four persons each only; and what is remarkable, we never saw the least marks either of canoe or boat, and it is generally thought they have none; being altogether, from what we could judge, a very ignorant and wretched set of people, though natives of a country capable of producing every necessary of life, and a climate the finest in the world. We found not the least signs of any minerals or metals.

Having completed our wood and water, we sailed from Adventure Bay, intending to coast it up along shore, till we should fall in with the land seen by Captain Cook, and discover whether Van Diemen’s Land joins with New Holland. On the 16th we passed Maria’s Islands, so named by Tasman; they appear to be the same as the main land. On the 17th, having passed Schouten’s Islands, we hauled in for the main land, and stood along shore at the distance of two or three leagues off. The country here appears to be very thickly inhabited, as there was a continual fire along shore as we sailed. The land hereabouts is much pleasanter, low and even; but no signs of a harbour or bay, where a ship might anchor with safety. The weather being bad, and blowing hard at S. S. E., we could not send a boat on shore to have any intercourse with the inhabitants. In the latitude of 40° 50ʹ south, the land trenches away to the westward, which I believe forms a deep bay, as we saw from the deck several smokes arising a-back of the islands that lay before it, when we could not see the least signs of land from the mast head.

From the latitude of 40° 50ʹ south, to the latitude of 39° 50ʹ south, is nothing but islands and shoals; the land high, rocky, and barren. On the 19th, in the latitude of 40° 30ʹ south, observing breakers about half a mile within shore of us, we sounded, and finding but eight fathoms, immediately hauled off, deepened our water to fifteen fathoms, then bore away, and kept along shore again. From the latitude of 39° 50ʹ to 39° S. we saw no land, but had regular soundings from fifteen to thirty fathoms. As we stood on to the northward, we made land again in about 39°; after which we discontinued our northerly course, as we found the ground very uneven, and shoal water some distance off. I think it a very dangerous shore to fall in with.

The coast, from Adventure Bay to the place where we stood away for New Zealand, lies in the direction S. 1/2 W. and N. 1/2 E. about seventy-five leagues; and it is my opinion that there is no straits between New Holland and Van Diemen’s Land, but a very deep bay. I should have stood farther to the northward, but the wind blowing strong at S. S. E., and looking likely to haul round to the eastward, which would have blown right on the land, I therefore thought it more proper to leave the coast, and steer for New Zealand.

After we left Van Diemen’s Land, we had very uncertain weather, with rain and very heavy gusts of wind. On the 24th, we were surprised with a very severe squall, that reduced us from top-gallant sails to reefed courses, in the space of an hour. The sea rising equally quick, we shipped many waves, one of which stove the large cutter, and drove the small one from her lashing into the waist; and with much difficulty we saved her from being washed over-board. This gale lasted twelve hours, after which we had more moderate weather, intermixed with calms. We frequently hoisted out the boats to try the currents, and in general found a small drift to the W. S. W. We shot many birds; and had upon the whole good weather; but as we got near to the land, it came on thick and dirty for several days, till we made the coast of New Zealand in 40° 30ʹ S. having made twenty-four degrees of longitude, from Adventure Bay, after a passage of fifteen days.

We had the winds much southerly in this passage, and I was under some apprehensions of not being able to fetch the Straits, which would have obliged us to steer away for George’s Island; I would therefore advise any who sail to this part, to keep to the southward; particularly in the fall of the year, when the S. and S. E. winds prevail.

The land, when we first made it, appeared high, and formed a confused jumble of hills and mountains. We steered along shore to the northward, but were much retarded in our course by reason of the swell from the N. E. At noon on the 3d of April, Cape Farewell, which is the south point of the entrance of the west side of the Straits, bore E. by N. 1/2 N. by the compass, three or four leagues distant. About eight o’clock we entered the Straits, and steered N. E. till midnight; then brought to till day-light, and had soundings from forty-five to fifty-eight fathoms, sand and broken shells. At day-light, made sail and steered S. E. by E.; had light airs; Mount Egmont N. N. E. eleven or twelve leagues, and Point Stephens S. E. 1/2 E. seven leagues. At noon, Mount Egmont N. by E. twelve leagues; Stephens’ Island S. E. five leagues. In the afternoon we put the dredge over-board in sixty-five fathoms; but caught nothing except a few small scallops, two or three oysters, and broken shells.

Standing to the eastward for Charlotte’s Sound, with a light breeze at N. W. in the morning on the 5th, Stephens’ Island bearing S. W. by W. four leagues, we were taken a-back with a strong easterly gale, which obliged us to haul our wind to the S. E. and work to windward up under Point Jackson. The course from Stephens’ Island to Point Jackson is nearly S. E. by the compass, eleven leagues distant, depth of water from forty to thirty-two fathoms, sandy ground. As we stood off and on, we fired several guns, but saw no signs of any inhabitants. In the afternoon, at half past two o’clock, finding the tide set the ship to the westward, we anchored with the coasting anchor in thirty-nine fathoms’ water, muddy ground; Point Jackson S. E. 1/2 E. three leagues; the east point of an inlet (about four leagues to the westward of Point Jackson, and which appears to be a good harbour) S. W. by W. 1/2 W. At eight P. M. the tide slackening, we weighed and made sail (having while at anchor caught several fish with hook and line), and found the tide to run to the westward at the rate of two and a half knots per hour. Standing to the east, we found no ground at seventy fathoms, off Point Jackson N. N. W. two leagues. At eight the next morning, had the sound open, but the wind being down it, obliged us to work up under the western shore, as the tide sets up strong there, when it runs down in mid channel. At ten, the tide being done, was obliged to come to with the best bower in thirty-eight fathoms, close to some white rocks, Point Jackson bearing N. W. 1/2 N. the northermost of the Brothers E. by S. and the middle of Entry Island, (which lies on the north side of the Straits,) N. E. We made 15° 30ʹ E. variation in the Straits. As we sailed up the sound, we saw the tops of high mountains covered with snow, which remains all the year. When the tide slackened, we weighed and sailed up the sound; and about five o’clock on the 7th, anchored in Ship Cove, in ten fathoms’ water, muddy ground, and moored the best bower to the N. N. E. and small to S. S. W. In the night, we heard the howling of dogs, and people hallooing on the east shore.

The two following days were employed in clearing a place on Motuara Island for erecting our tents for the sick (having then several on board much afflicted with the scurvy), the sailmakers and coopers. On the top of the island was a post, erected by the Endeavour’s people, with her name and time of departure on it.

On the 9th, we were visited by three canoes with about sixteen of the natives: and to induce them to bring us fish and other provisions, we gave them several things, with which they seemed highly pleased. One of our young gentlemen seeing something wrapt up in a better manner than common, had the curiosity to examine what it was; and to his great surprise found it to be the head of a man lately killed. They were very apprehensive of its being forced from them; and particularly the man who seemed most interested in it, whose very flesh crept on his bones, for fear of being punished by us, as Captain Cook had expressed his great abhorrence of this unnatural act. They used every method to conceal the head, by shifting it from one to another; and by signs endeavouring to convince us, that there was no such thing amongst them, though we had seen it but a few minutes before. They then took their leave of us, and went on shore.

They frequently mentioned Tupia, which was the name of the native of George’s Island (or Otaheite,) brought here by the Endeavour, and who died at Batavia; and when we told them he was dead, some of them seemed to be very much concerned, and as well as we could understand them, wanted to know whether we killed him, or if he died a natural death. By these questions, they are the same tribe Captain Cook saw. In the afternoon, they returned again with fish and fern roots, which they sold for nails and other trifles; though the nails are what they set the most value on. The man and woman who had the head, did not come off again. Having a catalogue of words in their language, we called several things by name, which surprised them greatly. They wanted it much, and offered a great quantity of fish for it.

Next morning they returned again, to the number of fifty or sixty, with their chief at their head, as we supposed, in five double canoes. They gave us their implements of war, stone hatchets, and clothes, &c. for nails and old bottles, which they put a great value on. A number of the head men came on board us, and it was with some difficulty we got them out of the ship by fair means; but on the appearance of a musket with a fixed bayonet, they all went into their canoes very quickly. We were daily visited by more or less, who brought us fish in great plenty for nails, beads, and other trifles, and behaved very peaceably.

We settled the astronomer with his instruments, and a sufficient guard, on a small island, that is joined to Motuara at low water, called the Hippa, where there was an old fortified town that the natives had forsaken. Their houses served our people to live in; and by sinking them about a foot inside, we made them very comfortable. Having done this, we struck our tents on the Motuara, and having removed the ship farther into the cove, on the west shore, moored her for the winter. We then erected our tents near the river or watering place, and sent ashore all the spars and lumber off the decks, that they might be calked; and gave her a winter coat to preserve the hull and rigging. On the 11th of May, we felt two severe shocks of an earthquake, but received no kind of damage. On the 17th we were surprised by the people firing guns on the Hippa, and having sent the boat, as soon as she opened the sound, had the pleasure of seeing the Resolution off the mouth of it. We immediately sent out the boats to her assistance to tow her in, it being calm. In the evening she anchored about a mile without us; and next morning weighed and warped within us. Both ships felt an uncommon joy at our meeting, after an absence of fourteen weeks.

CHAP. VIII.

TRANSACTIONS IN QUEEN CHARLOTTE’S SOUND, WITH SOME REMARKS ON THE
INHABITANTS.

Knowing that scurvy-grass, celery, and other vegetables were to be found in this sound, I went myself the morning after my arrival, at day-break, to look for some, and returned on board at breakfast with a boat load. Being now satisfied, that enough was to be got for the crews of both ships, I gave orders that they should be boiled, with wheat and portable broth, every morning for breakfast; and with pease and broth for dinner; knowing from experience, that these vegetables, thus dressed, are extremely beneficial in removing all manner of scorbutic complaints.

I have already mentioned a desire I had of visiting Van Diemen’s Land, in order to inform myself if it made a part of New Holland; and I certainly should have done this, had the winds proved favourable. But as Captain Furneaux had now, in a great measure, cleared up that point, I could have no business there: and therefore came to a resolution to continue our researches to the east between the latitudes of 41° and 46°. I acquainted Captain Furneaux therewith, and ordered him to get his ship in readiness to put to sea as soon as possible.

In the morning of the 20th, I sent ashore to the watering-place, near the Adventure’s tent, the only ewe and ram remaining of those which I brought from the Cape of Good Hope, with an intent to leave in this country. Soon after I visited the several gardens Captain Furneaux had caused to be made and planted with various articles; all of which were in a flourishing state, and, if attended to by the natives, may prove of great utility to them. The next day I set some men to work to make a garden on Long Island, which I planted with garden seeds, roots, &c.

On the 23d in the morning, the ewe and ram I had with so much care and trouble brought to this place, were both found dead; occasioned, as was supposed, by eating some poisonous plant. Thus my hopes of stocking this country with a breed of sheep were blasted in a moment. About noon, we were visited, for the first time since I arrived, by some of the natives, who dined with us; and it was not a little they devoured. In the evening, they were dismissed with presents.

Early in the morning of the 24th, I sent Mr. Gilbert the master to sound about the rock we had discovered in the entrance of the sound. Myself, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forster, went in a boat to the west bay on a shooting-party. In our way, we met a large canoe, in which were fourteen or fifteen people. One of the first questions they asked was for Tupia, the person I brought from Otaheite on my former voyage; and they seemed to express some concern, when we told them he was dead. These people made the same enquiry of Captain Furneaux when he first arrived; and, on my return to the ship in the evening, I was told that a canoe had been along-side, the people in which seemed to be strangers, and who also enquired for Tupia. Late in the evening Mr. Gilbert returned, having sounded all round the rock, which he found to be very small and steep.

Nothing worthy of notice happened till the 29th, when several of the natives made us a visit, and brought with them a quantity of fish, which they exchanged for nails, &c. One of these people I took over to Motuara, and showed him some potatoes planted there by Mr. Fannen, master of the Adventure. There seemed to be no doubt of their succeeding; and the man was so well pleased with them, that he, of his own accord, began to hoe the earth up about the plants. We next took him to the other gardens, and showed him the turnips, carrots, and parsnips; roots which, together with the potatoes, will be of more real use to them than all the other articles we had planted. It was easy to give them an idea of these roots, by comparing them with such as they knew.

Two or three families of these people now took up their abode near us, employing themselves daily in fishing, and supplying us with the fruits of their labour; the good effects of which we soon felt. For we were by no means such expert fishers as they are; nor were any of our methods of fishing equal to theirs.

On the 2d of June, the ships being nearly ready to put to sea, I sent on shore, on the east side of the sound, two goats, male and female. The former was something more than a year old; but the latter was much older. She had two fine kids, some time before we arrived in Dusky Bay, which were killed by cold, as hath been already mentioned. Captain Furneaux also put on shore, in Cannibal Cove, a boar and two breeding sows; so that we have reason to hope this country will, in time, be stocked with these animals, if they are not destroyed by the natives before they become wild; for, afterwards, they will be in no danger. But as the natives knew nothing of their being left behind, it may be some time before they are discovered.

In our excursion to the east, we met with the largest seal I had ever seen. It was swimming on the surface of the water, and suffered us to come near enough to fire at it, but without effect; for, after a chase of near an hour, we were obliged to leave it. By the size of this animal, it probably was a sea lioness. It certainly bore much resemblance to the drawing in Lord Anson’s voyage; our seeing a sea lion when we entered this sound, in my former voyage, increaseth the probability; and I am of opinion, they have their abode on some of the rocks, which lie in the strait, or off Admiralty Bay.

On the 3d, I sent a boat with the carpenter over to the east side of the sound, to cut down some spars, which we were in want of. As she was returning, she was chased by a large double canoe full of people; but with what intent, is not known. Early the next morning some of our friends brought us a large supply of fish. One of them agreed to go away with us; but, afterwards, that is when it came to the point, he changed his mind; as did some others who had promised to go with the Adventure.

It was even said, that some of them offered their children to sale. I however found that this was a mistake. The report first took its rise on board the Adventure, where they were utter strangers to their language and customs. It was very common for these people to bring their children with them, and present them to us, in expectation that we would make them presents; this happened to me the preceding morning. A man brought his son, a boy about nine or ten years of age, and presented him to me. As the report of selling their children was then current, I thought at first that he wanted me to buy the boy. But at last I found that he wanted me to give him a white shirt, which I accordingly did. The boy was so fond of his new dress that he went all over the ship presenting himself before every one that came in his way. This freedom used by him, offended Old Will, the ram goat, who gave him a butt with his horns, and knocked him backward on the deck. Will would have repeated his blow, had not some of the people come to the boy’s assistance. The misfortune, however, seemed to him irreparable. The shirt was dirtied, and he was afraid to appear in the cabin before his father, until brought in by Mr. Forster; when he told a very lamentable story against Goury, the great dog, (for so they call all the quadrupeds we had aboard), nor could he be reconciled, till his shirt was washed and dried. This story, though extremely trifling in itself, will show how liable we are to mistake these people’s meaning, and to ascribe to them customs which they never knew even in thought.

About nine o’clock, a large double canoe, in which were twenty or thirty people, appeared in sight. Our friends on board seemed much alarmed, telling us that these were their enemies: two of them, the one with a spear, and the other with a stone hatchet in his hand, mounted the arm-chests on the poop, and there, in a kind of bravado, bid those enemies defiance; while the others, who were on board, took to their canoe and went ashore, probably to secure the women and children.

All I could do, could not prevail on the two that remained to call these strangers along-side; on the contrary, they were displeased at my doing it, and wanted me to fire upon them. The people in the canoe seemed to pay very little regard to those on board, but kept advancing slowly towards the ship; and, after performing the usual ceremonies, put along-side: after this the chief was easily prevailed upon to come on board, followed by many others, and peace was immediately established on all sides; indeed, it did not appear to me that these people had any intention to make war upon their brethren; at least, if they had, they were sensible enough to know that this was neither the time nor place for them to commit hostilities.

One of the first questions these strangers asked, was for Tupia; and when I told them he was dead, one or two expressed their sorrow by a kind of lamentation, which to me appeared more formal than real. A trade soon commenced between our people and them. It was not possible to hinder the former from selling the clothes from off their backs for the merest trifles, things that were neither useful nor curious. This caused me to dismiss the strangers sooner than I would have done. When they departed, they went over to Motuara, where, by the help of our glasses, we discovered four or five canoes, and several people on the shore: this induced me to go over in my boat, accompanied by Mr. Forster and one of the officers. We were well received by the chief and the whole tribe, which consisted of between ninety and a hundred persons, men, women, and children, having with them six canoes, and all their utensils; which made it probable that they were come to reside in this sound; but this is only conjecture; for it is very common for them, when they even go but a little way, to carry their whole property with them; every place being alike, if it affords them the necessary subsistence; so that it can hardly be said they are ever from home. Thus we may easily account for the emigration of those few families we found in Dusky Bay.

Living thus dispersed in small parties, knowing no head but the chief of the family or tribe, whose authority may be very little, they feel many inconveniences, to which well regulated societies, united under one head or any other form of government, are not subject. These form laws and regulations for their general good; they are not alarmed at the appearance of every stranger; and if attacked or invaded by a public enemy, have strong holds to retire to, where they can, with advantage, defend themselves, their property, and their country. This seems to be the state of most of the inhabitants of Eahei-nomauwe; whereas, those of Tavai-poenammoo, by living a wandering life in small parties, are destitute of most of these advantages, which subjects them to perpetual alarms. We generally found them upon their guard, travelling and working, as it were, with their arms in their hands. Even the women are not exempted from bearing arms, as appeared by the first interview I had with the family in Dusky Bay; where each of the two women was armed with a spear not less than eighteen feet in length.

I was led into these reflections, by not being able to recollect the face of any one person I had seen here three years ago; nor did it once appear, that any one of them had the least knowledge of me, or of any person with me that was here at that time; it is, therefore, highly probable, that the greatest part of the people which inhabited this sound in the beginning of the year 1770, have been since driven out of it, or have, of their own accord, removed somewhere else: certain it is, that not one-third of the inhabitants were here now, that were then. Their strong hold on the point of Motuara hath been long deserted; and we found many forsaken habitations in all parts of the sound; we are not, however, wholly to infer from this, that this place hath been once very populous; for each family may, for their own convenience, when they move from place to place, have more huts than one or two.

It may be asked, if these people had never seen the Endeavour, nor any of her crew, how could they become acquainted with the name of Tupia, or have in their possession (which many of them had) such articles, as they could only have got from that ship? To this it may be answered, that the name of Tupia was so popular among them when the Endeavour was here, that it would be no wonder if, at this time, it was known over great part of New Zealand, and as familiar to those who never saw him, as to those who did. Had ships of any other nation whatever arrived here, they would have equally enquired of them for Tupia. By the same way of reasoning, many of the articles left here by the Endeavour, may be now in possession of those who never saw her. I got from one of the people, now present, an ear-ornament, made of glass, very well formed and polished; the glass they must have got from the Endeavour.

After passing about an hour on Motuara with these people, and having distributed among them some presents, and showed to the chief the gardens we had made, I returned on board, and spent the remainder of our royal master’s birth-day in festivity; having the company of Captain Furneaux and all his officers. Double allowance enabled the seamen to share in the general joy.

Both ships being now ready for sea, I gave Captain Furneaux an account in writing of the route I intended to take; which was to proceed to the east, between the latitudes of 41° and 46° south, until I arrived in the longitude of 140° or 135° west; then, provided no land was discovered, to proceed to Otaheite; from thence back to this place by the shortest route; and after taking in wood and water, to proceed to the south, and explore all the unknown parts of the sea between the meridian of New Zealand and Cape Horn; therefore, in case of separation before we reached Otaheite, I appointed that island for the place of rendezvous, where he was to wait till the 20th of August: if not joined by me before that time, he was then to make the best of his way back to Queen Charlotte’s Sound, where he was to wait until the 20th of November; after which (if not joined by me) he was to put to sea, and carry into execution their lordships’ instructions.

Some may think it an extraordinary step in me to proceed on discoveries as far south as 46 degrees of latitude, in the very depth of winter. But though it must be owned, that winter is by no means favourable for discoveries, it nevertheless appeared to me necessary that something should be done in it, in order to lessen the work I was upon, lest I should not be able to finish the discovery of the southern part of the South Pacific Ocean the ensuing summer. Besides, if I should discover any land in my route to the east, I should be ready to begin, with the summer, to explore it. Setting aside all these considerations, I had little to fear; having two good ships well provided, and healthy crews. Where then could I spend my time better? If I did nothing more, I was at least in hopes of being able to point out to posterity, that these seas may be navigated, and that it is practicable to go on discoveries, even in the very depth of winter.

During our stay in the sound, I had observed that this second visit made to this country, had not mended the morals of the natives of either sex. I had always looked upon the females of New Zealand to be more chaste than the generality of Indian women. Whatever favours a few of them might have granted to the people in the Endeavour, it was generally done in a private manner, and the men did not seem to interest themselves much in it; but now I was told they were the chief promoters of a shameful traffic, and that, for a spike nail, or any other thing they value, they would oblige the women to prostitute themselves, whether they would or no; and even without any regard to that privacy which decency required.

During our stay here Mr. Wales lost no opportunity to observe equal altitudes of the sun, for obtaining the rates of the watches. The result of his labours proved that Mr. Kendal’s was gaining 9ʺ, 5 per day, and Mr. Arnold’s losing 94ʺ, 158 per day, on mean time.

CHAP. IX.

ROUTE FROM NEW ZEALAND TO OTAHEITE, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF SOME LOW ISLANDS,
SUPPOSED TO BE THE SAME THAT WERE SEEN BY M. DE BOUGAINVILLE.

On the 7th of June, at four in the morning, the wind being more favourable, we unmoored, and at seven weighed and put to sea, with the Adventure in company. We had no sooner got out of the sound, than we found the wind at south; so that we had to ply through the Straits. About noon the tide of ebb setting out in our favour, made our boards advantageous; so that, at five o’clock in the evening, Cape Palliser, on the Island of Eahei-nomauwe, bore S. S. E. 1/2 S. and Cape Koamaroo, or the S. E. point of the sound, N. by W. 3/4 W. presently after it fell calm, and the tide of flood now making against us, carried us, at a great rate, back to the north. A little before high-water, the calm was succeeded by a breeze from the north, which soon increased to a brisk gale. This, together with the ebb, carried us, by eight o’clock the next morning, quite through the Strait. Cape Palliser, at this time, bore E. N. E. and at noon N. by W. distant seven leagues.

This day at noon, when we attended the winding up of the watches, the fusee of Mr. Arnold’s would not turn round; so that, after several unsuccessful trials, we were obliged to let it go down.

After getting clear of the Straits, I directed my course S. E. by E. having a gentle gale, but variable, between the north and west. The late S. E. winds having caused a swell from the same quarter, which did not go down for some days, we had little hopes of meeting with land in that direction. We, however, continued to steer to the S. E. and on the 11th, crossed the meridian of 180°, and got into the west longitude, according to my way of reckoning.

On the 16th, at seven in the morning, the wind having veered round to S. E. we tacked and stretched to N. E. being, at this time, in the latitude of 47° 7ʹ longitude 173° west. In this situation we had a great swell from N. E.

The wind continued at S. E., and S. S. E. blew fresh at intervals; and was attended with sometimes fair, and at other times rainy weather, till the 20th; on which day, being in the latitude of 44° 30ʹ, longitude 165° 45ʹ west, the wind shifted to the west, blew a gentle gale, and was attended with fair weather. With this we steered E. by N., E. by S., and E. till the 23d at noon, when, being in the latitude of 44° 38ʹ south, longitude 161° 27ʹ west, we had a few hours’ calm. The calm was succeeded by a wind at east, with which we stood to the north. The wind increased and blew in squalls, attended with rain, which at last brought us under our courses; and at two o’clock in the afternoon of the next day, we were obliged to lie to, under the foresail; having a very hard gale from E. N. E. and a great sea from the same direction.

At seven o’clock in the morning of the 25th, the gale being more moderate, we made sail under the courses, and in the afternoon set the top-sails close-reefed. At midnight, the wind having veered more to the north, we tacked and stretched to the S. E., being at this time in the latitude of 42° 53ʹ south, longitude 163° 20ʹ west.

We continued to stretch to the S. E. with a fresh gale and fair weather, till four o’clock in the afternoon the next day, when we stood again to the N. E. till midnight between the 27th and 28th. Then we had a few hours’ calm; which was succeeded by faint breezes from the west. At this time we were in the latitude of 42° 32ʹ, longitude 161° 15ʹ west. The wind remained not long at west, before it veered back to the east by the north, and kept between the S. E. and N. E. but never blew strong.

On July 2d, being in the latitude of 43° 3ʹ, longitude 156° 17ʹ west, we had again a calm, which brought the wind back to the west; but it was of no longer continuance than before, for the next day it returned to the E. and S. E., blew fresh at times, and by squalls, with rain.

On the 7th, being in the latitude of 41° 22ʹ, longitude 150° 12ʹ west, we had two hours’ calm; in which time Mr. Wales went on board the Adventure to compare the watches; and they were found to agree, allowing for the difference of their rates of going; a probable, if not a certain proof, that they had gone well since we had been in this sea.

The calm was succeeded by a wind from the south, between which point and the N. W. it continued for the six succeeding days, but never blew strong; it was, however, attended with a great hollow swell from S. W. and W., a sure indication that no large land was near in those directions. We now steered east, inclining to the south, and on the 10th, in the latitude of 43° 39ʹ, longitude 144° 43ʹ west, the variation was found, by several azimuths, to be no more than 3° east; but the next morning, it was found to be 4° 5ʹ 30ʺ, and in the afternoon, 5° 56ʹ east. The same day, at noon, we were in the latitude of 43° 44ʹ, longitude 141° 56ʹ west.

At nine o’clock in the morning of the 12th, the longitude was observed as follows, viz.

Self 1st set 139° 47ʹ 15ʺ Ditto 2d set 140 7 30 Mr. Wales 1st set 141 22 15 Ditto 2d set 140 10 0 Mr. Clerke 140 56 45 Mr. Gilbert 140 2 0 ----------- Mean 140 24 17-1/2 west.

This differed from my reckoning only 2-1/2°. The next morning, in the latitude of 43° 3ʹ, longitude 139° 20ʹ west, we had several lunar observations, which were consonant to those made the day before, allowing for the ship’s run in the time. In the afternoon, we had, for a few hours, variable light airs next to a calm; after which we got a wind from the N. E. blowing fresh and in squalls, attended with dark gloomy weather, and some rain.

We stretched to the S. E. till five o’clock in the afternoon on the 14th; at which time, being in the latitude of 43° 15ʹ, longitude 137° 39ʹ west, we tacked and stood to the north under our courses, having a very hard gale with heavy squalls, attended with rain, till near noon the next day, when it ended in a calm. At this time we were in the latitude of 42° 39ʹ, longitude 137° 58ʹ west. In the evening, the calm was succeeded by a breeze from S. W., which soon after increased to a fresh gale; and fixing at S. S. W., with it we steered N. E. 1/2 E. In the latitude of 41° 25ʹ, longitude 135° 58ʹ west, we saw floating in the sea a billet of wood, which seemed to be covered with barnacles, so that there was no judging, how long it might have been there, or from whence or how far it had come.

We continued to steer N. E. 1/2 E. before a very strong gale, which blew in squalls, attended with showers of rain and hail, and a very high sea from the same quarter, till noon, on the 17th. Being then in the latitude of 39° 44ʹ, longitude 133° 32ʹ west, which was a degree and a half farther east than I had intended to run; nearly in the middle between my track to the north in 1769, and the return to the south in the same year, (as will appear by the chart) and seeing no signs of land, I steered north-easterly, with a view of exploring that part of the sea lying between the two tracts just mentioned, down as low as the latitude of 27°, a space that had not been visited by any preceding navigator that I knew of.

On the 19th, being in the latitude of 36° 34ʹ, longitude 133° 7ʹ west, we steered N. 1/2 west, having still the advantage of a hard gale at south, which the next day veered to S. E. and E. blew hard and by squalls, attended with rain and thick hazy weather; this continued till the evening of the 21st, when the gale abated, the weather cleared up, and the wind backed to the S. and S. E.

We were now in the latitude of 32° 30ʹ, longitude 133° 40ʹ west; from this situation we steered N. N. W. till noon the next day, when we steered a point more to the west; being at this time in the latitude of 31° 6ʹ, longitude 134° 12ʹ west. The weather was now so warm, that it was necessary to put on lighter clothes: the mercury in the thermometer at noon rose to 63; it had never been lower than 46, and seldom higher than 54, at the same time of the day, since we left New Zealand.

This day was remarkable by our not seeing a single bird; not one had passed since we left the land without seeing some of the following birds, viz. albatrosses, sheer-waters, pintadoes, blue peterels, and Port Egmont hens; but these frequent every part of the Southern Ocean in the higher latitudes; not a bird, nor any other thing was seen, that could induce us to think that we had ever been in the neighbourhood of any land.

The wind kept veering round from the south by the west to N. N. W., with which we stretched north till noon the next day, when, being in the latitude of 29° 22ʹ, we tacked and stretched to the westward. The wind soon increased to a very hard gale, attended with rain, and blew in such heavy squalls, as to split the most of our sails. This weather continued till the morning of the 25th, when the wind became more moderate, and veered to N. W. and W. N. W., with which we steered and stretched to N. E., being, at that time, in the latitude of 29° 51ʹ, longitude 136° 28ʹ west. In the afternoon, the sky cleared up, and the weather became fair and settled. We now met the first tropic bird we had seen in this sea.

On the 26th, in the afternoon, being in the latitude of 28° 44ʹ, we had several observations of the sun and moon, which gave the longitude 135° 30ʹ west. My reckoning at the same time was 135° 27ʹ, and I had no occasion to correct it since I left the land. We continued to stretch to the north, with light breezes from the westward, till noon the next day, when we were stopped by a calm; our latitude at this time being 27° 53ʹ, longitude 135° 17ʹ west. In the evening, the calm was succeeded by a breeze from the N. and N. W., with which we plied to the north.

On the 29th, I sent on board the Adventure to enquire into the state of her crew, having heard that they were sickly, and this I now found was but too true; her cook was dead, and about twenty of her best men were down in the scurvy and flux. At this time, _we_ had only three men on the sick list, and only one of them attacked with the scurvy; several more, however, began to show symptoms of it, and were accordingly put upon the wort, marmalade of carrots, rob of lemons and oranges.

I know not how to account for the scurvy raging more in the one ship than the other, unless it was owing to the crew of the Adventure being more scorbutic when they arrived in New Zealand than we were, and to their eating few or no vegetables while they lay in Queen Charlotte’s Sound, partly for want of knowing the right sorts, and partly because it was a new diet, which alone was sufficient for seamen to reject it. To introduce any new article of food among seamen, let it be ever so much for their good, requires both the example and authority of a commander; without both of which, it will be dropped before the people are sensible of the benefits resulting from it: were it necessary, I could name fifty instances in support of this remark. Many of my people, officers as well as seamen, at first disliked celery, scurvy-grass, &c., being boiled in the peas and wheat; and some refused to eat it; but as this had no effect on my conduct, this obstinate kind of prejudice, by little and little, wore off; they began to like it as well as the others, and now, I believe, there was hardly a man in the ship that did not attribute our being so free from the scurvy, to the beer and vegetables we made use of at New Zealand; after this, I seldom found it necessary to order any of my people to gather vegetables, whenever we came where any were to be got, and if scarce, happy was he who could lay hold on them first. I appointed one of my seamen to be cook of the Adventure, and wrote to Captain Furneaux, desiring him to make use of every method in his power to stop the spreading of the disease amongst his people, and proposing such as I thought might tend towards it; but I afterwards found all this unnecessary, as every method had been used they could think of.

The wind continued in the N. W. quarter, and blew fresh, at times, attended with rain; with which we stood to the N. E. On the 1st of August, at noon, we were in the latitude of 25° 1ʹ, longitude 134° 6ʹ west, and had a great hollow swell from N. W. The situation we were now in, was nearly the same that Captain Cartaret assigns for Pitcairn’s Island, discovered by him in 1767. We therefore looked well out for it; but saw nothing. According to the longitude in which he has placed it, we must have passed about fifteen leagues to the west of it. But as this was uncertain, I did not think it prudent, considering the situation of the Adventure’s people, to lose any time in looking for it. A sight of it would, however, have been of use in verifying or correcting, not only the longitude of this isle, but of the others that Captain Cartaret discovered in this neighbourhood; his longitude not being confirmed, I think, by astronomical observations, and therefore liable to errors, which he could have no method to correct.

As we had now got to the northward of Captain Cartaret’s tracks, all hopes of discovering a continent vanished. Islands were all we were to expect to find, until we returned again to the south. I had now, that is on this and my former voyage, crossed this ocean in the latitude of 40° and upwards, without meeting any thing that did, in the least, induce me to think I should find what I was in search after. On the contrary, every thing conspired to make me believe there is no southern continent, between the meridian of America and New Zealand; at least, this passage did not produce any indubitable signs of any, as will appear by the following remarks. After leaving the coasts of New Zealand, we daily saw, floating in the sea, rock-weed, for the space of 18° of longitude. In my passage to New Zealand in 1769, we also saw of this weed, for the space of 12° or 14° of longitude, before we made the land. The weed is, undoubtedly, the produce of New Zealand; because, the nearer the coast, the greater quantity you see. At the greatest distance from the coast, we saw it only in small pieces, generally more rotten, and covered with barnacles; an indubitable sign that it had been long at sea. Were it not for this, one might be led to conjecture that some other large land lay in the neighbourhood; for it cannot be a small extent of coast to produce such a quantity of weed, as to cover so large a space of sea. It hath been already mentioned, that we were no sooner clear of the Straits, than we met with a large hollow swell from the S. E. which continued till we arrived in the longitude of 177° west, and latitude 46°. There we had large billows from the north and N. E. for five days successively, and until we got 5° of longitude more to the east, although the wind, great part of the time, blew from different directions. This was a strong indication that there was no land between us and my track to the west in 1769. After this, we had, as is usual in all great oceans, large billows from every direction in which the wind blew a fresh gale, but more especially from the S. W. These billows never ceased with the cause that first put them in motion; a sure indication, that we were not near any large land, and that there is no continent to the south, unless in a very high latitude. But this was too important a point to be left to opinions and conjectures. Facts were to determine it; and these could only be obtained by visiting the southern parts, which was to be the work of the ensuing summer, agreeably to the plan I had laid down.