Chapter VIII: Book I (6)

As the winds continued to blow from the N. W. and west, we had no other choice but to stand to the north, inclining more or less every day to the east. In the latitude of 21°, we saw flying fish, gannets and egg-birds. On the sixth, I hoisted a boat out and sent for Captain Furneaux to dinner; from whom I learnt that his people were much better, the flux having left them; and the scurvy was at a stand. Some cyder which he happened to have, and which he gave to the scorbutic people, contributed not a little to this happy change. The weather to-day was cloudy, and the wind very unsettled. This seemed to announce the approach of the so much-wished-for trade wind; which, at eight o’clock in the evening, after two hours’ calm and some heavy showers of rain, we actually got at S. E. We were, at this time, in the latitude of 19° 36ʹ south, longitude 131° 32ʹ west. The not meeting with the S. E. trade-wind sooner, is no new thing in this sea. As we had now got it, I directed my course to the W. N. W. as well to keep in the strength of it, as to get to the north of the islands discovered in my former voyage; that, if any other islands lay in the way, I might have a chance to discover them. During the day-time we made all the sail we could; but in the night, either run an easy sail, or lay to. We daily saw flying fish, albacores, dolphins, &c. but neither by striking, nor with hook and line, could we catch any of them. This required some art which none of my people were masters of.

On the 11th at day-break, land was seen to the south. This, upon a nearer approach, we found to be an island of about two leagues in extent, in the direction of N. W. and S. E. and cloathed with wood, above which the cocoa-nut trees showed their lofty heads. I judged it to be one of those isles discovered by Mr. Bougainville. It lies in the latitude of 17° 24ʹ, longitude 141° 39ʹ west; and I called it after the name of the ship, Resolution Island. The sickly state of the Adventure’s crew made it necessary for me to make the best of my way to Otaheite, where I was sure of finding refreshments. Consequently, I did not wait to examine this island, which appeared too small to supply our wants, but continued our course to the west; and at six o’clock in the evening, land was seen from the mast-head, bearing west by south. Probably this was another of Bougainville’s discoveries. I named it Doubtful Island; and it lies in the latitude of 17° 20ʹ, longitude 141° 38ʹ W. I was sorry I could not spare time to haul to the north of Mr. Bougainville’s track; but the getting to a place where we could procure refreshments was more an object at this time than discovery.

During the night we steered W. by N. in order to pass the north of the island above-mentioned. At day-break the next morning, we discovered land right ahead, distant about two miles; so that day-light advised us of our danger but just in time. This proved another of these low or half-drowned islands, or rather a large coral shoal of about twenty-leagues in circuit. A very small part of it was land, which consisted of little islets ranged along the north-side, and connected by sand-banks and breakers. These islets were clothed with wood, among which the cocoa-nut trees were only distinguishable. We ranged the south side of this isle or shoal at the distance of one or two miles from the coral bank, against which the sea broke in a dreadful surf. In the middle is a large lake or inland sea, in which was a canoe under sail.

This island, which I named after Captain Furneaux, lies in the latitude 17° 5ʹ, longitude 143° 16ʹ west. The situation is nearly the same that is assigned for one of those discovered by Bougainville. I must here observe, that amongst these low and half-drowned isles (which are numerous in this part of the ocean) Mr. Bougainville’s discoveries cannot be known to that degree of accuracy which is necessary to distinguish them from others. We were obliged to have recourse to his chart for the latitudes and longitudes of the isles he discovered, as neither the one nor the other is mentioned in his narrative. Without waiting to examine this island, we continued to steer to the west, all sails set, till six o’clock in the evening, when we shortened sail to three topsails, and at nine brought to.

The next morning at four A. M. we made sail, and at day-break saw another of these low islands, situated in the latitude of 17° 4ʹ, longitude 144° 30ʹ west, which obtained the name of Adventure Island. M. de Bougainville very properly calls this cluster of low overflowed isles the Dangerous Archipelago. The smoothness of the sea sufficiently convinced us that we were surrounded by them, and how necessary it was to proceed with the utmost caution, especially in the night.

At five o’clock P. M. we again saw land, bearing S. W. by S. which we afterwards found to be Chain Island, discovered in my former voyage. But as I was not sure of it at this time, and being desirous of avoiding the delay which lying by in the night occasioned, I hoisted out the cutter and manned her with an officer and seven men with orders to keep as far a-head of the ships, with a light at her mast-head, as a signal could be distinguished, which she was to make in case she met with any danger. In this manner we continued to run all night; and at six o’clock the next morning, I called her on board and hoisted her in. For it did not appear she would be wanted again for this purpose, as we had now a large swell from the south, a sure sign that we were clear of the low islands; therefore I steered for Otaheite without being apprehensive of meeting with any danger.

CHAP. X.

THE ARRIVAL OF THE SHIPS AT OTAHEITE, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE CRITICAL
SITUATION THEY WERE IN, AND OF SEVERAL INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED WHILE
THEY LAY IN OAITI-PIHA BAY.

On the 15th, at five o’clock in the morning, we saw Osnaburg Island or Maitea, discovered by Captain Wallis, bearing S. by W. 1/2 W. Soon after I brought to, and waited for the Adventure to come up with us, to acquaint Captain Furneaux, that it was my intention to put into Oaiti-piha Bay, near the S. E. end of Otaheite, in order to get what refreshments we could from that part of the island, before we went down to Matavai. This done, we made sail, and at six in the evening saw the island bearing west. We continued to stand on till midnight, when we brought to, till four o’clock in the morning; and then made sail in for the land with a fine breeze at east.

At day-break we found ourselves not more than half a league from the reef. The breeze now began to fail us, and at last fell to a calm. This made it necessary to hoist out our boats to tow the ships off; but all their efforts were not sufficient to keep them from being carried near the reef. A number of the inhabitants came off in canoes from different parts, bringing with them a little fish, a few cocoa-nuts, and other fruits, which they exchanged for nails, beads, etc. The most of them knew me again; and many enquired for Mr. Banks and others who were with me before; but not one asked for Tupia. As the calm continued, our situation became still more dangerous. We were, however, not without hopes of getting round the western point of the reef and into the bay, till about two o’clock in the afternoon, when we came before an opening or break in the reef, through which I hoped to get with the ships. But on sending to examine it, I found there was not a sufficient depth of water; though it caused such an indraught of the tide of flood through it, as was very near proving fatal to the Resolution; for as soon as the ships got into this stream, they were carried with great impetuosity towards the reef. The moment I perceived this, I ordered one of the warping machines, which we had in readiness, to be carried out with about four hundred fathoms of rope; but it had not the least effect. The horrors of shipwreck now stared us in the face. We were not more than two cables’ length from the breakers; and yet we could find no bottom to anchor, the only probable means we had left to save the ships. We however dropt an anchor; but, before it took hold, and brought us up, the ship was in less than three fathoms water, and struck at every fall of the sea, which broke close under our stern in a dreadful surf, and threatened us every moment with shipwreck. The Adventure, very luckily, brought up close upon our bow without striking.

We presently carried out two kedge anchors, with hawsers to each. These found ground a little without the bower, but in what depth we never knew. By heaving upon them, and cutting away the bower anchor, we got the ship a-float, where we lay some time in the greatest anxiety, expecting every minute that either the kedges would come home, or the hawsers be cut in two by the rocks. At length the tide ceased to act in the same direction. I ordered all the boats to try to tow off the Resolution; and when I saw this was practicable, we hove up the two kedges. At that moment, a light air came off from the land, which so much assisted the boats, that we soon got clear of all danger. Then I ordered all the boats to assist the Adventure; but before they reached her, she was under sail with the land breeze, and soon after joined us, leaving behind her three anchors, her coasting cable, and two hawsers, which were never recovered. Thus we were once more safe at sea, after narrowly escaping being wrecked on the very island we, but a few days before, so ardently wished to be at. The calm, after bringing us into this dangerous situation, very fortunately continued; for had the sea breeze, as is usual, set in, the Resolution must inevitably have been lost, and probably the Adventure too.

During the time we were in this critical situation, a number of the natives were on board and about the ships; they seemed to be insensible of our danger, showing not the least surprise, joy, or fear, when we were striking, and left us little before sun-set, quite unconcerned.

We spent the night, which proved squally and rainy, making short boards; and the next morning, being the 17th, we anchored in Oaiti-piha Bay in twelve fathoms’ water, about two cables’ length from the shore; both ships being by this time crowded with a great number of the natives, who brought with them cocoa-nuts, plantains, bananas, apples, yams, and other roots, which they exchanged for nails and beads. To several who called themselves chiefs, I made presents of shirts, axes, and several other articles; and in return, they promised to bring me hogs and fowls; a promise they never did, nor ever intended to perform.

In the afternoon I landed, in company with Captain Furneaux, in order to view the watering-place, and to sound the disposition of the natives. I also sent a boat to get some water for present use, having scarcely any left on board. We found this article as convenient as could be expected, and the natives to behave with great civility.

Early in the morning I sent the two launches, and the Resolution’s cutter, under the command of Mr. Gilbert, to endeavour to recover the anchors we had left behind us. They returned about noon with the Resolution’s bower anchor; but could not recover any of the Adventure’s. The natives came off again with fruit, as the day before, but in no great quantity. I also had a party on shore, trading under the protection of a guard; nothing, however, was brought to market but fruit and roots, though many hogs were seen (I was told) about the houses of the natives. The cry was that they belonged to Waheatoua the _Earee de hi_, or king; and him we had not yet seen, nor, I believe, any other chief of note; many, however, who called themselves _Earees_, came on board, partly with a view of getting presents, and partly to pilfer whatever came in their way.

One of this sort of _Earees_ I had, most of the day, in the cabin, and made presents to him and all his friends, which were not a few. At length he was caught taking things which did not belong to him, and handing them out of the quarter-gallery. Many complaints of the like nature were made to me against those on deck; which occasioned my turning them all out of the ship. My cabin guest made good haste to be gone. I was so much exasperated at his behaviour, that after he had got some distance from the ship, I fired two muskets over his head, which made him quit the canoe, and take to the water. I then sent a boat to take up the canoe; but as she came near the shore, the people from thence began to pelt her with stones. Being in some pain for her safety, as she was unarmed, I went myself in another boat to protect her, and ordered a great gun, loaded with ball, to be fired along the coast, which made them all retire from the shore, and I was suffered to bring away two canoes without the least show of opposition. In one of the canoes was a little boy, who was much frightened; but I soon dissipated his fears, by giving him beads, and putting him on shore. A few hours after we were all good friends again; and the canoes were returned to the first person who came for them.

It was not till the evening of this day that any one enquired after Tupia, and then but two or three. As soon as they learnt the cause of his death, they were quite satisfied; indeed, it did not appear to me, that it would have caused a moment’s uneasiness in the breast of any one, had his death been occasioned by any other means than by sickness. As little enquiry was made after Aotourou, the man who went away with M. de Bougainville; but they were continually asking for Mr. Banks, and several others who were with me in my former voyage.

These people informed us, that Toutaha, the regent of the greater peninsula of Otaheite, had been killed in a battle, which was fought between the two kingdoms about five months before; and that _Otoo_ was the reigning prince. Tubourai Tamaide, and several more of our principal friends about Matavai, fell in this battle, as also a great number of common people; but at present, a peace subsisted between the two kingdoms.

On the 19th we had gentle breezes easterly, with some smart showers of rain. Early in the morning, the boats were again sent to recover the Adventure’s anchors, but returned with the same ill success as the day before; so that we ceased to look for them any longer, thinking ourselves very happy in having come off so well, considering the situation we had been in. In an excursion which Captain Furneaux and I made along the coast, we met with a chief who entertained us with excellent fish, fruit, &c. In return for his hospitality, I made him a present of an axe and other things; and he afterwards accompanied us back to the ships, where he made but a short stay.

Nothing worthy of note happened on the 20th, till the dusk of the evening, when one of the natives made off with a musket belonging to the guard on shore. I was present when this happened, and sent some of our people after him, which would have been to little purpose, had not some of the natives, of their own accord, pursued the thief: they knocked him down, took from him the musket, and brought it to us. Fear, on this occasion, certainly operated more with them than principle: they, however, deserve to be applauded for this act of justice; for, if they had not given their immediate assistance, it would hardly have been in my power to have recovered the musket by any gentle means whatever; and by making use of any other, I was sure to lose more than ten times its value.

The 21st, the wind was at north a fresh breeze. This morning a chief made me a visit, and presented me with a quantity of fruit, among which were a number of cocoa-nuts we had drawn the water from, and afterwards thrown over board. These he had picked up, and tied in bundles so artfully, that we did not at first perceive the cheat. When he was told of it, without betraying the least emotion, and as if he knew nothing of the matter, he opened two or three of them himself, signified to us that he was satisfied that it was so, and then went on shore and sent off a quantity of plantains and bananas. Having got on board a supply of water, fruit, and roots, I determined to sail in the morning to Matavai, as I found it was not likely that I should get an interview with Waheatoua; without which it was very improbable we should get any hogs. Two of the natives who knew my intention, slept on board, with a view of going with us to Matavai; but in the morning the wind blew fresh at N. W., and as we could not sail, I sent the trading party on shore as usual.

In the evening I was informed that Waheatoua was come into the neighbourhood and wanted to see me. In consequence of this information, I determined to wait one day longer in order to have an interview with this prince. Accordingly, early the next morning, I set out in company with Captain Furneaux, Mr. Forster, and several of the natives. We met the chief about a mile from the landing-place, towards which he was advancing to meet us; but as soon as he saw us he stopt, with his numerous train in the open air. I found him seated upon a stool, with a circle of people round him, and knew him at first sight and he me; having seen each other several times in 1769. At that time he was but a boy, and went by the name of Tearee, but upon the death of his father Waheatoua, he took upon him that name.

After the first salutation was over, having seated me on the same stool with himself, and the other gentlemen on the ground by us, he began to enquire after several by name who were with me on my former voyage. He next inquired how long I would stay; and when I told him no longer than next day, he seemed sorry, asked me to stay some months, and at last came down to five days; promising that, in that time, I should have hogs in plenty. But as I had been here already a week, without so much as getting one, I could not put any faith in this promise. And yet, I believe, if I had stayed, we should have fared much better than at Matavai. The present I made him consisted of a shirt, a sheet, a broad axe, spike nails, knives, looking-glasses, medals, beads, &c. In return, he ordered a pretty good hog to be carried to our boat. We stayed with him all the morning, during which time he never suffered me to go from his side, where he was seated. I was also seated on the same stool, which was carried from place to place by one of his attendants, whom we called stool-bearer. At length we took leave, in order to return on board to dinner; after which we visited him again, and made him more presents; and he in return gave Captain Furneaux and me each of us an hog. Some others were got by exchanges at the trading places: so that we got, in the whole to-day, as much fresh pork as gave the crews of both ships a meal; and this in consequence of our having this interview with the chief.

The 24th, early in the morning, we put to sea with a light land-breeze. Soon after we were out, we got the wind at west, which blew in squalls, attended with heavy showers of rain. Many canoes accompanied us out to sea with cocoa-nuts, and other fruits; and did not leave us till they had disposed of their cargoes.

The fruits we got here greatly contributed towards the recovery of the Adventure’s sick people. Many of them who had been so ill as not to be able to move without assistance, were, in this short time, so far recovered, that they could walk about of themselves. When we put in here, the Resolution had but one scorbutic man on board, and a marine, who had been long sick, and who died, the second day after our arrival, of a complication of disorders without the least mixture of the scurvy. I left Lieutenant Pickersgill with the cutter behind in the bay, to purchase hogs; as several had promised to bring some down to-day, and I was not willing to lose them.

On the 25th, about noon, Mr. Pickersgill returned with eight pigs, which he got at Oaitipiha. He spent the night at Ohedea, and was well entertained by Ereti, the chief of that district. It was remarkable that this chief never once asked after Aotourou; nor did he take the least notice, when Mr. Pickersgill mentioned his name. And yet Mr. de Bougainville tells us, this is the very chief who presented Aotourou to him; which makes it the more extraordinary that he should neither inquire after him now, nor when he was with us at Matavai; especially as they believed that we and Mr. Bougainville came from the same country; that is, from _Pretane_, for so they called our country. They had not the least knowledge of any other European nation; nor probably will they, unless some of those men should return who had lately gone from the isle; of which mention shall be made bye-and-by. We told several of them, that M. de Bougainville came from _France_, a name they could by no means pronounce, nor could they pronounce that of _Paris_ much better; so that it is not likely that they will remember either the one or the other long. Whereas _Pretane_ is in every child’s mouth, and will hardly ever be forgotten. It was not till the evening of this day that we arrived in Matavai bay.

CHAP. XI.

AN ACCOUNT OF SEVERAL VISITS TO AND FROM OTOO; OF GOATS BEING LEFT ON THE ISLAND; AND MANY OTHER PARTICULARS WHICH HAPPENED WHILE THE SHIPS LAY IN MATAVAI BAY.

Before we got to an anchor, our decks were crowded with the natives; many of whom I knew, and almost all of them knew me. A great crowd were gotten together upon the shore; amongst whom was Otoo their king. I was just going to pay him a visit, when I was told he was _mataow’d_, and gone to Oparree. I could not conceive the reason of his going off in a fright, as every one seemed pleased to see me. A chief whose name was Maritata, was at this time on board, and advised me to put off my visit till the next morning, when he would accompany me; which I accordingly did.

After having given directions to pitch tents for the reception of the sick, coopers, sail-makers, and the guard, I set out on the 26th for Oparree; accompanied by Captain Furneaux, Mr. Forster, and others, Maritata and his wife. As soon as we landed, we were conducted to Otoo, whom we found seated on the ground, under the shade of a tree, with an immense crowd round him. After the first compliments were over, I presented him with such articles as I guessed were most valuable in his eyes; well knowing that it was my interest to gain the friendship of this man. I also made presents to several of his attendants; and, in return, they offered me cloth, which I refused to accept; telling them that what I had given was for _tiyo_ (friendship). The king inquired for Tupia, and all the gentlemen that were with me in my former voyage, by name; although I do not remember that he was personally acquainted with any of us. He promised that I should have some hogs the next day; but I had much ado to obtain a promise from him to visit on board. He said he was _mataou no to poupoue_, that is, afraid of the guns. Indeed, all his actions showed him to be a timorous prince. He was about thirty years of age, six feet high, and a fine, personable, well made man as one can see. All his subjects appeared uncovered before him, his father not excepted. What is meant by uncovering, is the making bare the head and shoulders, or wearing no sort of cloathing above the breast.

When I returned from Oparree, I found the tents, and the astronomer’s observatories, set up, on the same spot where we observed the transit of Venus in 1769. In the afternoon I had the sick landed; twenty from the Adventure all ill of the scurvy; and one from the Resolution. I also landed some marines for a guard, and left the command to Lieutenant Edgcumbe of the marines.

On the 27th, early in the morning, Otoo, attended by a numerous train, paid me a visit. He first sent into the ship a large quantity of cloth, fruits, a hog, and two large fish; and, after some persuasion, came aboard himself, with his sister, a younger brother, and several more of his attendants. To all of them I made presents; and, after breakfast, took the king, his sister, and as many more as I had room for, into my boat, and carried them home to Oparree. I had no sooner landed than I was met by a venerable old lady, the mother of the late Toutaha. She seized me by both hands, and burst into a flood of tears, saying, _Toutaha Tiyo no Toutee matty Toutaha_—(Toutaha, your friend, or the friend of Cook, is dead). I was so much affected with her behaviour, that it would have been impossible for me to have refrained mingling my tears with hers, had not Otoo come and taken me from her. I, with some difficulty, prevailed on him to let me see her again, when I gave her an axe and some other things. Captain Furneaux, who was with me, presented the king with two fine goats, male and female, which, if taken care of, or rather if no care at all is taken of them, will no doubt multiply. After a short stay we took leave and returned on board.

Very early in the morning on the 28th, I sent Mr. Pickersgill, with the cutter, as far as Ottahourou, to endeavour to procure hogs. A little after sun-rise, I had another visit from Otoo, who brought me more cloth, a pig, and some fruit. His sister, who was with him, and some of his attendants, came on board; but he and others went to the Adventure, with the like present to Captain Furneaux. It was not long before he returned with Captain Furneaux on board the Resolution, when I made him a handsome return for the present he had brought me, and dressed his sister out in the best manner I could. She, the king’s brother, and one or two more, were covered before him to-day. When Otoo came into the cabin, Ereti and some of his friends were sitting there. The moment they saw the king enter, they stripped themselves in great haste, being covered before. Seeing I took notice of it, they said _Earee, Earee_; giving me to understand that it was on account of Otoo being present. This was all the respect they paid him; for they never rose from their seats, nor made him any other obeisance. When the king thought proper to depart, I carried him again to Oparree in my boat; where I entertained him, and his people, with the bag-pipes (of which music they are very fond), and dancing by the seamen. He, in return, ordered some of his people to dance also, which consisted chiefly of contortions. There were, however, some who could imitate the seamen tolerably well, both in country-dances and hornpipes. While we were here, I had a present of cloth from the late Toutaha’s mother. This good old lady could not look upon me without shedding tears; however, she was far more composed than before. When we took leave, the king promised to visit me again the next day; but said that I must first come to him. In the evening Mr. Pickersgill came back empty; but with a promise of having some hogs, if he would return in a few days.

Next morning, after breakfast, I took a trip to Oparree, to visit Otoo, as he had requested, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and some of the officers. We made him up a present of such things as he had not seen before. One article was a broad sword; at the very sight of which he was so intimidated, that I had much ado to persuade him to accept of it, and to have it buckled upon him; where it remained but a short time, before he desired leave to take it off and send it out of his sight.

Soon after we were conducted to the theatre; where we were entertained with a dramatic _heava_, or _play_, in which were both dancing and comedy. The performers were five men, and one woman, who was no less a person than the king’s sister. The music consisted of three drums only; it lasted about an hour and an half, or two hours; and, upon the whole, was well conducted. It was not possible for us to find out the meaning of the play. Some part seemed adapted to the present time, as my name was frequently mentioned. Other parts were certainly wholly unconnected with us. It apparently differed in nothing, that is in the manner of acting it, from those we saw at Ulietea in my former voyage. The dancing-dress of the lady was more elegant than any I saw there, by being decorated with long tassels, made of feathers, hanging from the waist downward. As soon as all was over, the king himself desired me to depart; and sent into the boat different kinds of fruit and fish, ready dressed. With this we returned on board; and the next morning he sent me more fruit, and several small parcels of fish.

Nothing farther remarkable happened till ten o’clock in the evening, when we were alarmed with the cry of murder, and a great noise, on shore, near the bottom of the bay, at some distance from our encampment. I suspected that it was occasioned by some of our own people; and immediately armed a boat, and sent on shore, to know the occasion of this disturbance, and to bring off such of our people as should be found there. I also sent to the Adventure, and to the post on shore, to know who were missing; for none were absent from the Resolution, but those who were upon duty. The boat soon returned with three marines, and a seaman. Some others, belonging to the Adventure, were also taken, and being all put under confinement, the next morning I ordered them to be punished according to their deserts. I did not find that any mischief was done, and our people would confess nothing. I believe this disturbance was occasioned by their making too free with the women. Be this as it will, the natives were so much alarmed, that they fled from their habitations in the dead of the night, and the alarm spread many miles along the coast. For when I went to visit Otoo, in the morning, by appointment, I found him removed, or rather fled, many miles from the place of his abode. Even there I was obliged to wait some hours, before I could see him at all; and when I did, he complained of the last night’s riot.

As this was intended to be my last visit, I had taken with me a present suitable to the occasion. Among other things were three Cape sheep, which he had seen before and asked for; for these people never lose a thing by not asking for it. He was much pleased with them; though he could be but little benefited, as they were all weathers; a thing he was made acquainted with. The presents he got at this interview entirely removed his fears, and opened his heart so much, that he sent for three hogs; one for me, one for Captain Furneaux, and one for Mr. Forster. This last was small, of which we complained, calling it _ete, ete_. Presently after a man came into the circle, and spoke to the king with some warmth, and in a very peremptory manner; saying something or other about hogs. We, at first, thought he was angry with the king for giving us so many, especially as he took the little pig away with him. The contrary, however, appeared to be the true cause of his displeasure; for, presently after he was gone, a hog, larger than either of the other two, was brought us in lieu of the little one. When we took leave, I acquainted him that I should sail from the island the next day; at which he seemed much moved, and embraced me several times. We embarked to return on board, and he, with his numerous train, directed their march back to Oparree.

The sick being all pretty well recovered, our water-casks repaired, and water completed, as well as the necessary repairs of the ships, I determined to put to sea without farther delay. Accordingly on the 1st of September, I ordered every thing to be got off from the shore, and the ships to be unmoored. On this work we were employed the most of the day. In the afternoon Mr. Pickersgill returned from Attahourou; to which place I had sent him, two days before, for the hogs he had been promised. My old friend Pottatou, the chief of that district, his wife, or mistress (I know not which), and some more of his friends, came along with Mr. Pickersgill, in order to visit me. They brought me a present of two hogs, and some fish; and Mr. Pickersgill got two more hogs, by exchange, from Oamo: for he went in the boat as far as Paparra, where he saw old Oberea. She seemed much altered for the worse, poor, and of little consequence. The first words she said to Mr. Pickersgill were, _Earee mataou ina boa_, Earee is frightened, you can have no hogs. By this it appeared that she had little or no property, and was herself subject to the Earee; which I believe was not the case when I was here before. The wind, which had blown westerly all day, having shifted at once to the east, we put to sea; and I was obliged to dismiss my friends sooner than they wished to go; but well satisfied with the reception they had met with.

Some hours before we got under sail, a young man, whose name was Poreo, came and desired I would take him with me. I consented, thinking he might be of service to us on some occasion. Many more offered themselves, but I refused to take them. This youth asked me for an axe and a spike nail for his father, who was then on board. He had them accordingly, and they parted just as we were getting under sail, more like two strangers than father and son. This raised a doubt in me whether it was so; which was farther confirmed by a canoe, conducted by two men, coming along-side, as we were standing out of the bay, and demanding the young man in the name of Otoo. I now saw that the whole was a trick to get something from me; well knowing that Otoo was not in the neighbourhood, and could know nothing of the matter. Poreo seemed, however, at first undetermined whether he should go or stay; but he soon inclined to the former. I told them to return me the axe and nails, and then he should go (and so he really should), but they said they were ashore, and so departed. Though the youth seemed pretty well satisfied, he could not refrain from weeping, when he viewed the land astern.

CHAP. XII.

AN ACCOUNT OF THE RECEPTION WE MET WITH AT HUAHEINE, WITH THE INCIDENTS
THAT HAPPENED WHILE THE SHIPS LAY THERE, AND OF OMAI, ONE OF THE
NATIVES, COMING AWAY IN THE ADVENTURE.

As soon as we were clear of the bay, and our boats in, I directed my course for the Island of Huaheine, where I intended to touch. We made it the next day, and spent the night, making short boards under the north end of the island. At day-light in the morning of the 3d, we made sail for the harbour of Owharre; in which the Resolution anchored, about nine o’clock, in twenty-four fathoms’ water. As the wind blew out of the harbour, I chose to turn in by the southern channel, it being the widest. The Resolution turned in very well, but the Adventure, missing stays, got ashore on the north side of the channel. I had the Resolution’s launch in the water ready, in case of an accident of this kind, and sent her immediately to the Adventure. By this timely assistance, she was got off again, without receiving any damage. Several of the natives, by this time, had come off to us, bringing with them some of the productions of the island; and, as soon as the ships were both in safety, I landed with Captain Furneaux, and was received by the natives with the utmost cordiality. I distributed some presents among them; and presently after, they brought down hogs, fowls, dogs, and fruits, which they willingly exchanged for hatchets, nails, beads, &c. The like trade was soon opened on board the ships; so that we had a fair prospect of being plentifully supplied with fresh pork and fowls; and, to people in our situation, this was no unwelcome thing. I learnt that my old friend Oree, chief of the isle, was still living, and that he was hastening to this part to see me.

Early next morning, Lieutenant Pickersgill sailed with the cutter, on a trading party, toward the south end of the isle. I also sent another trading party on shore near the ships, with which I went myself, to see that it was properly conducted at the first setting out, a very necessary point to be attended to. Every thing being settled to my mind, I went, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forster, to pay my first visit to Oree, who, I was told, was waiting for me. We were conducted to the place by one of the natives; but were not permitted to go out of our boat, till we had gone through some part of the following ceremony, usually performed at this isle, on such like occasions. The boat, in which we were desired to remain, being landed before the chief’s house, that stood close to the shore, five young plantain trees, which are their emblems of peace, were brought on board separately, and with some ceremony. Three young pigs, with their ears ornamented with cocoa-nut fibres, accompanied the first three; and a dog, the fourth. Each had its particular name and purpose, rather too mysterious for us to understand. Lastly, the chief sent to me the inscription engraved on a small piece of pewter, which I left with him in July, 1769. It was in the same bag I had made for it, together with a piece of counterfeit English coin, and a few beads, put in at the same time; which shows how well he had taken care of the whole. When they had made an end of putting into the boat the things just mentioned, our guide, who still remained with us, desired us to decorate three young plantain trees with looking-glasses, nails, medals, beads, &c. &c. This being accordingly done, we landed with these in our hands, and were conducted towards the chief, through the multitude; they making a lane, as it were, for us to pass through. We were made to sit down a few paces short of the chief, and our plaintains were then taken from us, and, one by one, laid before him, as the others had been laid before us. One was for _Eatoua_ (or God), the second for the _Earee_ (or king), and the third for _Tiyo_ (or friendship). This being done, I wanted to go to the king, but was told that he would come to me, which he accordingly did, fell upon my neck and embraced me. This was by no means ceremonious; the tears, which trickled plentifully down his venerable old cheeks, sufficiently bespoke the language of his heart. The whole ceremony being over, all his friends were introduced to us, to whom we made presents. Mine to the chief consisted of the most valuable articles I had; for I had regarded this man as a father. In return he gave me a hog and a quantity of cloth, promising that all our wants should be supplied; and it will soon appear how well he kept his word. At length we took leave, and returned on board; and some time after Mr. Pickersgill returned also with fourteen hogs. Many more were got by exchanges on shore, and along-side the ships, besides fowls and fruit in abundance.

This good old chief made me a visit early in the morning on the 5th, together with some of his friends, bringing me a hog and some fruit, for which I made him a suitable return. He carried his kindness so far, as not to fail to send me every day, for my table, the very best of ready-dressed fruit, and roots, and in great plenty. Lieutenant Pickersgill being again sent with the two boats, in search of hogs, returned in the evening with twenty-eight; and about four times that number were purchased on shore, and along-side the ships.

Next morning the trading party, consisting of only two or three people, were sent on shore as usual; and after breakfast, I went to the place myself, when I learnt that one of the inhabitants had been very troublesome and insolent. This man, being pointed out to me, completely equipped in the war habit with a club in each hand, as he seemed bent on mischief, I took these from him, broke them before his eyes, and, with some difficulty forced him to retire from the place. As they told me that he was a chief, this made me the more suspicious of him, and occasioned me to send for a guard, which till now I had thought unnecessary. About this time, Mr. Sparrman, having imprudently gone out alone, botanizing, was set upon by two men, who stripped him of every thing he had about him, except his trowsers, struck him several times with his own hanger, but happily did him no harm. As soon as they had accomplished their end, they made off; after which another of the natives brought a piece of cloth to cover him, and conducted him to the trading place, where were a great number of the inhabitants. The very instant Mr. Sparrman appeared in the condition I have just mentioned, they fled to a man with the utmost precipitation. My first conjectures were, that they had stolen something; but we were soon undeceived, when we saw Mr. Sparrman, and the affair was related to us. As soon as I could recall a few of the natives, and had made them sensible that I should take no step to injure those who were innocent, I went to Oree to complain of this outrage, taking with us the man who came back with Mr. Sparrman, to confirm the complaint. As soon as the chief heard the whole affair related, he wept aloud, as did many others. After the first transports of his grief were over, he began to expostulate with his people, telling them, (as far we could understand) how well I had treated them, both in this and my former voyage, and how base it was in them to commit such actions. He then took a very minute account of the things Mr. Sparrman had been robbed of, promised to do all in his power to recover them, and rising up, desired me to follow him to my boat. When the people saw this, being, as I supposed, apprehensive of his safety, they used every argument to dissuade him from what they, no doubt, thought a rash step. He hastened into the boat, notwithstanding all they could do or say. As soon as they saw their beloved chief wholly in my power, they set up a great outcry. The grief they showed was inexpressible; every face was bedewed with tears; they prayed, entreated, nay, attempted to pull him out of the boat. I even joined my entreaties to theirs, for I could not bear to see them in such distress. All that could be said or done, availed nothing; he insisted on my coming into the boat, which was no sooner done than he ordered it to be put off. His sister, with a spirit equal to that of her royal brother, was the only person who did not oppose his going. As his intention in coming into our boat was to go with us in search of the robbers, we proceeded accordingly as far as it was convenient by water, then landed, entered the country, and travelled some miles inland, the chief leading the way, enquiring of every one he saw. At length he stepped into a house by the road side, ordered some cocoa-nuts for us, and after we were a little refreshed, wanted to proceed still farther; but this I opposed, thinking that we might be carried to the very farthest end of the island, after things, the most of which, before they came into our hands again, might not be worth the bringing home. The chief used many arguments to persuade me to proceed, telling me that I might send my boat round to meet us, or that he would get a canoe to bring us home, if I thought it too far to travel. But I was resolved to return, and he was obliged to comply and return with me, when he saw I would follow him no farther. I only desired he would send somebody for the things; for I found that the thieves had got so much start of us that we might follow them to the remotest parts of the isle, without so much as seeing them; besides, as I intended to sail the next morning, this occasioned a great loss to us, by putting a stop to all manner of trade; for the natives were so much alarmed, that none came near us, but those that were about the chief; it, therefore, became the more necessary for me to return, to restore things to their former state. When we got back to our boat, we there found Oree’s sister, and several more persons, who had travelled by land to the place. We immediately stept into the boat in order to return on board, without so much as asking the chief to accompany us. He, however, insisted on going also; and followed us into the boat in spite of the opposition and entreaties of those about him; his sister followed his example, and the tears and prayers of her daughter, who was about sixteen or eighteen years of age, had no weight with her on this occasion. The chief sat at table with us, and made a hearty dinner; his sister, according to custom, ate nothing. After dinner, I sufficiently rewarded them for the confidence they had put in me, and soon after carried them both on shore, where some hundreds of people waited to receive them, many of whom embraced their chief with tears of joy. All was now joy and peace: the people crowded in from every part, with hogs, fowls, and fruit, so that we presently filled two boats; Oree himself presented me with a large hog and a quantity of fruit. The hanger (the only thing of value Mr. Sparrman had lost) with part of his coat, were brought us; and we were told, we should have the others the next day. Some of the officers, who were out on a shooting party, had some things stolen from them, which were returned in like manner.

Thus ended the troublesome transactions of this day, which I have been the more particular in relating, because it shows what great confidence this brave old chief put in us; it also, in some degree, shows that friendship is sacred with them. Oree and I were professed friends in all the forms customary among them; and he seemed to think that this could not be broken by the act of any other persons. Indeed this seemed to be the great argument he made use of to his people, when they opposed his going into my boat. His words were to this effect:—“Oree (meaning me, for so I was always called) and I are friends; I have done nothing to forfeit his friendship; why, then, should I not go with him?” We, however, may never find another chief who will act in the same manner under similar circumstances. It may be asked, What had he to fear? to which I answer, Nothing; for it was not my intention to hurt a hair of his head, or to detain him a moment longer than he desired. But how was he or the people to know this? They were not ignorant, that, if he was once in my power, the whole force of the island could not take him from me, and that, let my demands for his ransom have been ever so high, they must have complied with them. Thus far their fears, both for his and their own safety, were founded in reason.

On the 7th, early in the morning, while the ships were unmooring, I went to pay my farewell visit to Oree, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forster. We took with us, for a present, such things as were not only valuable but useful. I also left with him the inscription-plate he had before in keeping, and another small copper-plate, on which were engraved these words, “Anchored here, his Britannic Majesty’s ships Resolution and Adventure, September, 1773,” together with some medals, all put up in a bag; of which the chief promised to take care, and to produce, to the first ship or ships that should arrive at the island. He then gave me a hog; and, after trading for six or eight more, and loading the boat with fruit, we took leave, when the good old chief embraced me with tears in his eyes. At this interview, nothing was said about the remainder of Mr. Sparrman’s clothes. I judged they were not brought in; and, for that reason, did not mention them, lest I should give the chief pain about things I did not give him time to recover; for this was early in the morning.

When we returned to the ships, we found them crowded round with canoes full of hogs, fowls, and fruit, as at our first arrival. I had not been long on board, before Oree himself came, to inform me, as we understood, that the robbers were taken, and to desire us to go on shore, either to punish, or to see them punished; but this could not be done, as the Resolution was just under sail, and the Adventure already out of the harbour. The chief stayed on board till we were a full half league out at sea, then took a most affectionate leave of me, and went away in a canoe, conducted by one man and himself, all the others having gone long before. I was sorry that it was not convenient for me to go on shore with him, to see in what manner these people would have been punished; for I am satisfied, this was what brought him on board.