Chapter C: W. W. Wynne, Esq. M.P. Llangedwin (2)

The Cathedral is a venerable Gothic building, spacious and convenient, but, at present it may be considered, in some measure, in a dilapidated state, as the Chapter have been waiting some time for the Lord Chancellor’s decision as to the _quantum_ of Grant, which his Lordship may consider necessary to allow, in order to put the Fabric in complete repair. Its dimensions are as follows, the North and South Cross Aisles are 30 feet 6 inches, North and South, and 25 East and West, so that the whole length of the Cross Aisle, from North to South, is 86 feet the inside. From the Arch which opens to the Choir, to the East end of the Stalls, is 27 feet, from thence to the East end of the Bishop’s Throne 6 feet, and from thence to the Altar 21 feet, whole length of the Choir 54 feet, which added to the space of the cross Aisle 25 feet, the Nave 110 feet, Steeple 19 feet, makes the whole length from East to West, 208. The breadth of the Choir, from wall to wall, is 26 feet 6 inches, the breadth of the Stalls 4 feet, 6 inches, that of the Choristers seats nearly 3 feet; the height of the Choir and Nave 34 feet, of the Aisle 24 feet; thickness of the Walls which support the Arches in the North and South Aisles is 4 feet. The Chapter Room was repaired and partly rebuilt in Bishop Moore’s time, and the Nave new roofed in that of Warren. There are now belonging to this Cathedral, a Bishop, (H. W. Majendie, D.D.) a Dean, (J. Warren, B.D.) three Archdeacons, two of which were annexed to the Bishopric by Act of Parliament, A.D. 1685, a Treasurer, and two Prebendaries, endowed; a Precentor, {43} Chancellor, and three Canons, not endowed; two Vicars Choral, an Organist, four Lay Clerks, Choristers, and other officers.—About the year 975, King Edgar coming into North Wales, at Bangor confirmed the ancient privileges of the Church, and bestowed Lands upon it, and caused a new Church to be founded on the South side of the Cathedral, dedicated to the blessed Virgin, which Church or Chapel was, by Dean Kyffin, converted into a Chantry of singing Priests; this place is supposed to have been the same which afterwards became the residence of the Vicar. Anion, (or Eineon) Archdeacon of Anglesey, became Bishop about the year 1268, and is reported to have held a Synod at St. Mary’s de Garth Brannan, the ancient Parish Church of Bangor, now entirely down, since the year 1291, but which is supposed to have been about 400 yards from the Cathedral. He also christened Edward the Second, in Carnarvon Castle, April 25th, 1284, and for this and other services, had several Manors or Regalities bestowed upon him and his successors, as the Manor of Treffos, (said to have been afterwards the residence of the Bishops of Bangor for some years) and some Cantreds in the Island of Anglesey, the Ferries of Porthaethwy and Cadnant, over the Menai, the Manors of Bangor, Castellmai and Garth Gogo, (now Gogarth). In his time also the house in London was given. The offices secundum usum Bangor, were recovered by Bishop Humphreys, from a private library, and new bound, by the direction and at the expence of the late Dr. John Jones; it was compiled by Bishop Anian, (Eineon) or at least given by him. The Cathedral was destroyed in the year 1071, and was soon afterwards re-built, for we find that in 1212, King John invaded the country, forced the Bishop (Robert of Shrewsbury) from before the Altar, and obliged him to pay two hundred Hawks for his ransom. In the year 1402, it was again reduced to ruin, by the rage of Owen Glyndwr, and continued neglected for ninety years, when the Choir was restored by Bishop Dean or Deny. The present body and tower were erected by that liberal Prelate Bishop Skeffington, as appears by the following inscription, at the West end, “_Thomas Skevington_, _Episcopus Bangoriæ_, _hoc campanile et Ecclesiam fieri fecit Ann. partus_ 1532.” The height of the Tower is about sixty feet, it was to have been raised considerably higher, but the death of the Bishop prevented the execution of that design. The windows were made or glazed according to the custom of the times, by the piety of different persons, among whom may be reckoned Dean Kyffin, and some of the Griffiths of Penrhyn. Bishop Lloyd gave the Bells. On the South side of the Choir is a Mural Monument of Bishop Morgan, who died September, 1673, aged 65, also another in memory of Anne, daughter of Bishop Humphreys. The Busts of Bishops Vaughan and Rowlands, which were decapitated, and otherwise disfigured in the fanatical times of Oliver Cromwell, were removed in 1810. Bishop H. Rowlands erected the Monument in memory of Bishop Vaughan, as a token of his affection; he died Bishop of London, A.D. 1607. Bishop Edward Griffith is supposed to have been buried near this spot. Bishop Rowlands died July 1616, and is here buried, _ætatis_ 65; here also is buried Bishop Lloyd ob. 15th Feb. 1688, _ætat._ 78. About the space of two stones off lie Bishop Nich. Robinson and Bishop Robert Morgan, both in one grave; the stone is or was partly covered by the rails; Morgan died September, 1673, aged 65. Bishops Bailey and Meyrick were buried on the South of the Communion Table. One stone with a plate upon it, is this inscription: “_Gulielmus __Glynn natus in Insula Mona_, _&c._” he was Bishop of Bangor in 1555. That wise and valiant Prince, Owen Gwynedd, is supposed to have been buried beneath an Arch, with a flowery Cross cut on a flat stone; he died regretted by his countrymen and feared by his foes, in 1169. On the floor is a mutilated figure, in brass, designed for Richard Kyffin, the active Dean of the Cathedral, in the Reigns of Richard III. and Henry VII. He was a strenuous friend to the house of Lancaster, and when he was Prebendary of Llanddwyn, and resident there as Rector of the place, he concerted, in conjunction with Sir Rhys (or Rice) ap Thomas, of Dinevor, and other Welsh Chieftains, a plan for the bringing in the Duke of Richmond, then in Brittany, to whom they transmitted, by means of fishing Vessels, all the necessary intelligence. He died the 13th of August 1502. The place of his interment was till within these few years (and probably may be so still) distinguished by the name of _Bedd y Deon Du_, or the grave of the black Dean, who was so called, in all probability, from his complexion. It appears, from the Sebright MSS. that our wise and brave Prince Griffith ap Cynan, was interred on the left side of the great Altar, in the year 1137, and that an elegant shrine was erected over his grave, of which however not a vestige now remains. In the Parish Church of Llandegai, before-mentioned, is still to be seen a mural Monument, with a long Latin inscription, to the memory of the celebrated John Williams, Archbishop of York, in the time of Charles the First; he is represented in his episcopal Dress, kneeling at an Altar. This great Prelate was born at Conway; his father, _Edmund_, was sixth son of the neighbouring family of _Cochwillan_, and a branch of that of Penrhyn; his life was written by Bishop Hackett, and the late Rev. Sneyd Davies, after viewing the Monument, wrote a beautiful little Poem, which is preserved in Dodsley’s Collections. Here is also an Alabaster Monument of an armed Man and his Lady, recumbent; they probably belonged to the neighbouring House, but on the dissolution were removed from the Friery of Llanvaes in Anglesey, where the persons represented had been interred.

The Bishop’s Palace is an irregular building situate on the side of the Hill, about one hundred yards to the North of the Cathedral; it was partly re-built by Bishop Warren, and several handsome and commodious apartments added to it, and it has been in other respects greatly improved by the present worthy Prelate, Dr. Majendie. The residence of the Dean is nearly adjoining the Church-yard, at the N. W. end of the Cathedral.

Nearly on the same spot where the Bangor Free Grammar School now stands, a House of Friers Preachers was founded, according to Bishop Tanner, about the year 1276, by Tudor ap Gronow, Lord of Penmynydd and Trecastell, in Anglesey, who also enlarged or rebuilt it in 1299, and was interred here in 1311. Leland’s words are “A Priory of White Freres, by Bangor, dedicate to Jesu: there were once White Freres at Ruthin Dyffryn Clwyd.” Edward VI. made a grant of this place to Thomas Brown and William Bretton, and soon after it was converted into a Free School, by Geffry Glynn, LL.D. an Advocate in Doctor’s Commons, and brother to Bishop Glynn. By his Will, proved July 21, 1557, he left the management of it to his brother, and to Maurice Griffith, Bishop of Rochester; but the settlement not having been completed prior to their decease, they delegated the same power to Sir William Petre and others, who agreed on the Statutes for the Master and Usher, with the concurrence of the Bishop, Dean, and Chapter, and of Alexander Nowel, Dean of St. Paul’s, who is said to have composed them.—Mr. Pennant, in his Tour, informs us that over the chimney piece, in the old School House, there was a fragment of an ancient Monument, to one Gryffydd, with a long sword carved on it, and on the staircase another stone, with the words ap Tudor, probably part of the Tomb of the founder, Tudor ap Gronw ap Tudor. A new School-room, together with a spacious and convenient dwelling-house for the Master, adjoining, was erected here in the time of Bishop Warren, and some new regulations made with regard to the management of the School. Within the last few years a new house has also been built, a little to the East of the former, for the residence of the Usher. This Seminary is at present extremely well conducted, and deservedly held in great repute: From having been for many years the third in eminence, (Beaumaris and Ruthin being long considered as superior to it) this establishment is now the most flourishing place of education in this portion of the principality.

Bishop Rowlands, born at Plas Myllteyrn, in Lleyn, founded here an Hospital, or rather an Alms-house, for six poor men, and also a Free School, at Bottwnog in this County, about the year 1616. The Dispensary, a most useful and benevolent Institution was established in this City, October, 1809, being the 50th Anniversary of our late good King’s Accession, and the year of Jubilee, under the patronage of that excellent Nobleman, Lord Viscount Bulkeley, the Lord Bishop of the Diocese, the worthy Dean, and many other Noblemen and Gentlemen. It is with heart-felt satisfaction we are able to add, that its Funds continue on the increase, and every attention is paid to the numerous patients, by Dr. Mason, the Physician; Mr. Roberts, the Surgeon, and Mr. Pugh, the House Apothecary.

The following tribute, to the memory of Mr. Edwards, the celebrated blind Harper, who died at his sister’s, (Mrs. Jones, Pen yr Allt, Bangor) on Friday, the 13th January, 1815, aged 65, may not be unacceptable to the reader, the author is unknown:

Ah! quench’d is now that Minstrel’s fire,
And mute those strings, whose magic tone
Could once e’en Cambria’s Rocks inspire,
And move to life her mountain stone.

Cold is the hand, that once could sweep
The native Harp, with Bardic sway;
Could lull each passion rude to sleep,
And drive the steps of care away.

Ah come ye kindred Minstrels here,
To kiss the Harp your master sway’d,
And o’er it drop the mournful tear,
And let it in his grave be laid.

For now like him ’tis mute and dead,
Its accents all are hush’d and still;
The power is gone—the spirit fled,
And every nerve in death is chill.

But shall that spirit rise no more,
And shall its powers no more revive,
And, on this “Muse deserted shore,”
Shall no such Bard hereafter live?

Oh! Cambria, scorn the hateful dream,
And raise thy drooping downcast head;
Nor longer drop the pearly stream,
Not longer mourn thy Minstrel dead.

For yet some Heaven-taught child of thine,
In ages yet unborn may rise;
Some sapling of this Minstrel’s line,
And lift thy glory to the skies.

A new Market House, Town Hall, &c. have lately been built here, which is at once an improvement to the Town, and a convenience to farmers and others of the neighbourhood; a good Inn, on a commodious plan, adjoins it called the Waterloo Tavern. Several mean unsightly dwellings, at the East end of the Church-yard, have been taken down, and a new House erected for the residence of one of the Vicars. In short, from the speculative spirit of the inhabitants, and the increasing demand for Slates at Port Penrhyn, which, as well as the Quay at Hirael, is generally crowded not only with small craft, but with Ships of considerable burthen, Bangor seems advancing rapidly into consequence; it is also of late years become a place of fashionable resort, particularly in the Summer season. The population, according to the last _Census_, in 1811, was 2393, and it may now be stated at nearly 3000. The principal Inns, are the Castle, near the Cathedral, Crown and Anchor, and Waterloo Tavern in the Centre; the Penrhyn Arms at the East, and the Vaynol Arms at the West end of the Town.

Hugh Lupus, in his barbarous inroads into Anglesey, founded a Castle at Bangor, in order to carry on his ravages with greater security; it was situated nearly a quarter of a mile Eastward of the Town, on the ridge of hills which bound the S.E. side of the Vale, and nearly the same distance from the Port. It was on a rocky, and in many parts a precipitous hill. Three sides of the Walls are easily to be traced: on the S.E. side, they extended a hundred and twenty yards; on the S.W. sixty-six, ending at a precipice; the N.E. may be traced forty yards, and ends in the same manner. On the fourth side, the natural strength of the place rendered a farther defence useless; Mounds of Earth, tending to a semicircular form, with rocks and precipices, connect the N.E. and S.W. walls. The precise time of its demolition is not known, but probably as soon as the Earl had effected his design it was suffered to fall to ruin.

In this Parish, about a mile and a half to the South of the Town, was discovered about the year 1806, at a place called Ty Coch, belonging to Captain Taylor, a Stone, with the following inscription;

NVMNC
IMP CAESAR M
AVRELANTONINVS
PIVS TI IX AVG ARAB
IX

It is probable, that after the traveller has examined the City of Bangor and its environs, he may be tempted to cross over to the Island of Anglesey; and if he be a pedestrian, he would find the passage over _Garth_, (formerly called Cadnant) Ferry the shortest and pleasantest way to Beaumaris; but if the party have a horse or carriage, the road to Porth Aethwy, (otherwise called Bangor Ferry) where the new Iron Bridge is now erecting, must be pursued. And here it may be proper, before we proceed any further, to inform the stranger that there are six ferries across the Menai, which I shall mention here in regular order, beginning with Beaumaris, over the Lavan Sands, to Aber; 2. Garth, near Bangor, which is confined solely to foot passengers; 3. Porth Aethwy, {53} before-mentioned, the best, safest, and most convenient; 4. Moel y Donn, a very safe good ferry, and sober careful boatmen; 5. Tal y Foel, opposite Carnarvon; 6. Abermenai, at the extreme Westerly end of the Straits, about three miles below Carnarvon.—The best rout for any person who may be inclined to make a tour of the Island, would be to proceed from Bangor Ferry to Beaumaris, along the delightful new terrace road, made at the sole expence of that munificent Nobleman, who is an honour to his Country, Lord Viscount Bulkeley, which may justly be pronounced one of the most grand and picturesque rides in the kingdom, commanding a full view of Beaumaris bay, with its winding Shores, projecting Capes and Promontories, together with the vast and magnificent chain of Carnarvonshire Hills and Mountains, towering in succession, in majestic eminence and grandeur, and in variety of shapes, until their summits are lost in the clouds. After visiting the Castle and other Antiquities in and about this beautiful Town, the traveller is recommended to proceed from Beaumaris to Red Wharf, and along the Sea-coast to Amlwch, famous for its extensive and lucrative Copper Mines, and which are well worthy the stranger’s attention, and from thence to the town of Holyhead, where Government has erected, at an immense expence, one of the finest Piers in Great Britain; at the extremity is a very handsome Light-House, which, together with the Lamps along the Pier, being lighted up with Gas, renders the Scene, at night, brilliant and imposing. He may then return into Carnarvonshire either along the Post Road to Llangefni, and thence to Moel y Donn ferry, or if he be curious enough to explore the whole of the Island, along the Western Coast to Aberfraw and Newborough, and re-cross either at Abermenai, Tal y Foel, or Moel y Donn.

As the Tourist may probably be desirous to know the names of the gentlemen’s seats, which appear so conspicuous on the Anglesey shore, from this side the water, and which seem to claim his attention, as he proceeds along, I shall here for his satisfaction describe them as they occur, beginning with the most Easterly, viz. Friers, the seat of Sir Robert Williams, Baronet, M.P. for the County of Carnarvon; which is situated a mile beyond Beaumaris, near the Sea coast, not far from the site of a Religious House of the Franciscan order,—next is Baron Hill, the seat of Lord Viscount Bulkeley, embosomed in woods, and commanding a most extensive and enchanting view, having the Town, Castle, and Bay of Beaumaris in front,—near it is Red Hill, the residence of Colonel Sparrow,—next in order is Lady Bulkeley’s neat Cottage, on the Beaumaris new road, and just below it Craig y Donn, the delightful Summer habitation of Owen Williams, Esq. M.P. for Great Marlow, who is fond of sailing, and has an elegant Cutter at anchor near his house,—next is Cadnant, the seat of J. Price, Esq. in a small recess on the side of a narrow dingle;—these are the principal seats to the East of the great Irish road. But, before we proceed any further, the stranger cannot avoid noticing the singular situation of a small Church, on a barren rock, forming a little Peninsula, about a quarter of a mile to the West of Bangor-Ferry, called Llandissilio. {55} We then proceed to another small Church, called Llanfair (or St. Mary’s) Pwll Gwyn Gell,—and near it, the Vicarage House; and just below that Llanfair Hall, the seat of Colonel Peacock. And here I must not omit noticing a very elegant Column, situated on a high rock, behind Llanfair Church, erected by subscription of £1 each person, (and which was soon filled, so eager were the gentlemen of the neighbourhood to contribute), and intended to commemorate the brave, skilful, and intrepid conduct of that gallant Nobleman, the Marquess of Anglesey, at the Battle of Waterloo. Not far from hence is that rocky or obstructed part of the Straits or Channel of the Menai, called by the Welsh Pwll Ceris, {56} and by the English the Swelly; the fury of the tide, during ebb and flow, is almost inconceivable, except by the navigator: here are great over-falls and violent whirl-pools, but at high water all is still. This is a great obstacle to the navigation of large vessels, which must consult the critical season, and provide a good Pilot; and as the Merchants of Carnarvon, and others, were very apprehensive that the erection of a Bridge at Bangor Ferry, would materially injure the Trade, Government has proposed to defray the expence of blasting the Rocks, and to render every other practicable facility to the improvement of the navigation in this part of the Channel.

After this short digression, we now proceed to Plas Newydd, the magnificent Seat of the Marquess of Anglesey, situated on a beautiful curve of the Menai, and protected on three sides by venerable Oak Trees, which reminds us of the Groves, in which the Druids are represented by Tacitus to have concealed themselves from the Roman Army, and also recalls to our remembrance the ancient name of Anglesey, _Ynys Dywyll_, the Dark Island, on account of the deep shade of its groves:

— These woods
Were tenanted by Bards, who nightly thence,
Rob’d in their flowing vests of innocent white,
Issu’d with Harps, that glitter to the moon,
Hymning immortal strains.

MASON’S CARACTACUS.

It lies within 80 or 100 yards of the Menai, with a fine lawn in front, sloping to the edge of the water; it commands a fine view both towards Carnarvon and Bangor, which is rendered doubly interesting when the tide is in, and the river covered with Ships of various sizes, together with his Lordship’s Cutter, and those of T. A. Smith, Esq. of Vaynol, and Owen Williams, Esq. of Craig y Don, sailing up and down, and contending with each other, thus rendering the scene more animating. On the contrary, in boisterous weather, here you behold from your fire side, (if you please,) the mariner exerting his strength to guide his ship, and contending with the storm; sweet retreat! delightful abode!

Suave mari magno, turbantibus æquora ventis,
E terra magnum alterius spectare laborem.

“Pleasing from danger free, to hear on shore,
The tempests whistle and the billows roar.”

Behind the House are to be seen two vast _Cromlechs_, the upper stone of one is twelve feet seven inches long, twelve broad, and four thick, supported by five tell ones; the other is but barely separated from the first, is almost a square of five feet and a half, and supported by four stones. The number of supporters to _Cromlechs_ are supposed to be merely accidental, and to depend on the size and form of the incumbent stone. Dr. Borlase, in his History of _Cornwall_, has shewn the improbability of these stones ever being designed or used as Altars; the figure proves the impossibility of making fires, or performing sacrifices on their sloping summits, and almost all which I have seen (observes Mr. Pennant) have an inclination. It is reasonable to suppose them to have been sepulchral monuments, (probably of their Arch Druids) and that the body might be lodged in the space beneath, and near the monument divine honours might be paid, or sacrifices performed to the manes of the dead.—This species of monument is to be found in most parts of Europe, in Scandinavia, in Holland and in France; in the last, the _Pierre Levee_, near Poitiers, is a stupendous specimen; they extend even farther South, for Mr. Armstrong gives a drawing of one of this nature in Minorca. They vary in form, in many the space between the supporters is closed up with stones of greater or lesser size, and thus formed a sufficient security to the remains of the deceased therein deposited. Probably all or most of those which we see in our Island, might originally have been thus closed up, and the stones since taken away, and applied to other uses; others are again quite bedded in the _Carnedd_, as is the case with that at Llanfaelog, in this Island. Not far from the _Cromlech_ is a large _Carnedd_, part of which has been removed; within was discovered a Cell, about seven feet long and three wide, covered at the top with two flat stones, and lined on the sides with others. On the top of the stones were two semicircular holes, of size sufficient to take in the human neck; it is conjectured that above might have been another, so that both together might perform the office of a stocks.—It is indeed conjecture, yet not an improbable one, that in this place were confined, the wretches destined for sacrifice, as it is well known that they performed those execrable rites, and often upon captives who had suffered long imprisonment, perhaps in Cells similar to this, and the common Welsh proverb “_Bwrw caeth i Gythraul_,” to offer a captive to the Devil, seems to confirm this opinion. After the tourist has examined the interior of Plasnewydd, which he may easily do if he be so disposed, he is recommended to pay a visit to Mr. Saunderson’s beautiful Cottage, the _Lodge_, about a quarter of a mile to the East of this Princely mansion, where his curiosity will no doubt be amply gratified, as that gentleman has displayed peculiar taste and judgment in the embellishment and decoration of that singularly elegant and much admired residence. Half a mile to the West, and within the Park, are the Farm and Parish Church, _Llan Edwen_, and very near these, in the same direction, is Plas Coch, a venerable old Mansion, built in the time of Queen Elizabeth, and lately repaired and improved by the present Proprietor, Sir W. Bulkeley Hughes, Knight. Next is Porthamel, {60} late the seat of Mrs. Goodman, now of W. Massey, Esq.; beyond which are Llanidan Church and Hall, the latter the admired residence of the Hon. Mr. Ireby, eldest son of Lord Boston, and nearly opposite Carnarvon, Tref-Arthen, Mr. Bogue’s, and Maes y Porth, W. P. Lloyd, Esq.

We shall now return to Bangor, and conduct the stranger by Bangor Ferry, (which, although about a mile further is by far the most interesting road) to Carnarvon, and as he proceeds he will find the views constantly changing, and he will frequently be at a loss which most to admire,—the Sea, the Mountains, or the landscape, up and down the Menai. Gorphwysfa, {61a} a modern handsome Villa, between the Inn and the intended new Bridge, built by Lord Lucan, and now the property and residence of O. A. Poole, Esq. is the first place likely to attract his attention; this charming spot is much admired—the grounds are laid out with great taste and judgment. But before we proceed, the reader is to be informed that £24,000. have been awarded by a jury, and allowed by Government, as an indemnification to the Proprietor for the loss of the profits of the Ferry, in consequence of the erection of the Bridge. On his right, after he has passed the ferry, and as he ascends the Hill, is Treborth, the seat of G. Barlow, Esq. and about a mile further, on the same side of the road, surrounded by fine woods, and thriving plantations, is Vaynol, {61b} the occasional residence, at particular times of the year, of T. A. Smith, Esq. during a month or two in summer, to enjoy the pleasure of sailing in his Cutter, and a few weeks in winter, for the amusement of sporting. His usual abode is at Tedworth, near Andover Hants. This gentleman is Proprietor of several excellent Slate Quarries, some of which are considered the most productive of any in this part of the Principality, next to those of G. H. D. Pennant, Esq.; but the proper time for visiting these will be during an excursion from Carnarvon to Llanberris. Vaenol was at one period the residence of a branch of the Penrhyn Family, who were descended from Ednyfed Fychan. They obtained a Baronetage June 15, 1622. Sir William Williams, the last of the line, disposed of his property to Sir Boucher Wrey, with the remainder to King William in fee, who made a grant of it to an ancestor of the present proprietor. A curious Seal was discovered near this place, about two or three years ago, supposed to be that of some Convent or Monastery, with the image of the Virgin and child, and bearing the following inscription: S. BEATÆ MARIÆ DE SI. . . . NE BEC . . .

The next place which deserves to be noticed, in our progress towards Carnarvon, is Bryn Tirion; the habitation of Thomas Jones, Esq.; this house, which is nearly opposite Plas Newydd, stands on a beautiful eminence, and commands an extensive view of the Straits, as far as Abermenai.—In this neighbourhood, as well as on the opposite shore, are considerable Lime-stone rocks; and indications of Iron Ore have also been observed here, and, we understand, in one instance, a late trial has been attended with success. It is the general opinion, when these two are found in considerable quantities, that Coal is not far distant, and some attempts have been made, at different times, to discover the vein, but hitherto without effecting that object. Near this place is Aber y pwll, a Harbour belonging to Mr. Smith, where his Slate are shipped off, and to which a good new road has, within these few years, been made from his Quarry. Half a mile farther is Moel y Don, a safe and commodious horse Ferry, where no accident has happened in the memory of any person now living. In the life of Gryffydd, ap Cynan, (one of our Welsh Princes) it is said that a Castle was built here, by Aeloedd, King of Dublin, his grandfather by the mother’s side, and there are still some remains of a fortification, on a small eminence, close upon the Menai, about three hundred yards below the Ferry. This place was also rendered memorable on account of a Bridge of Boats, erected here by King Edward the First, A.D. 1282, {63} in repassing which, a detachment of his Army, together with a number of _Gascon_ and Spanish troops, commanded by LUKE DE TANY, were intercepted by the Welsh, who rush’d on them with hideous shouts, slew numbers, and forced the remainder into the sea. On this occasion perished the General himself, together with Roger Clifford the younger, thirteen Knights, seventeen young gentlemen, and two hundred soldiers. William Latimer alone escaped by the goodness of his horse, which swam with him to the Bridge. Even if we suppose that a panic had seized the English forces at this time, yet a considerable degree of praise is still due to the intrepidity of my countrymen, as, when compared with the troops of other countries, they fought nearly unarmed; in order to be convinced of which, a person need only read a description of their weapons and accoutrements, when they accompanied our valiant Prince Richard Cœur de Lion into France, as given by William Brito, in Camden’s Remains.

When we have proceeded half a mile, we enter the beautiful woods of Llanfair, the delightful seat of John Griffith, Esq. a gentleman, who according the example of his ancestors, and the custom of “those good old times,” resides constantly in the country, and gives employment to a number of poor persons, who would otherwise, in all probability, be chargeable to some Parish; he does not dismiss from his service the super-anuated domestic—relieves the _wants_ of the indigent, and promotes the comfort of the Cottager, by numerous acts of charity, and is an indulgent and generous Landlord. The neatness of the fences, the thriving state of the plantations, the rich appearance of the land, and the judicious management of the Home-stall, together with the improved method of farming, must attract the attention of every passenger. Nearer Carnarvon, on the banks of the Menai, is the small but neat Parish Church of Llanfair Isgaer, partly re-built at the above gentleman’s expence, and from which his mansion takes its name. Not far from hence is Crûg, a house once the property of Sir W. Williams Wynne, but which was purchased by J. Griffith, Esq. of Llanfair; it deserves notice as being the place where Meredith ap Jevan ap Robert of Cesail Gyfarch, ancestor of Sir John Wynne, of _Gwydir_, was nursed, and from whence he removed to the Castle of Dolydd Helen.—This Meredith (as Sir John Wynne informs us, in the History of the Gwydir Family) married a daughter-in-law of one _Spicer_, of Carnarvon, who had an office in the Exchequer in that Town, and was a person of £50. per annum, and his son, John Spicer, was a Justice of the Peace, in the first Commissions after the new Ordinance of Wales, as we learn from the same authority. Within a mile of Carnarvon, and near the road, is a handsome modern-built house, _Ty Coch_, the residence of the Rev. H. Jones.—Near this place once stood an old Mansion, called Plas Bretwn, belonging to the Breretons, a family who probably came to this country with Edward the First, or soon after; and nearly in this direction, a new Ferry was established within these few years, and we lament to state that on the 5th of August, 1820, owing to the very culpable negligence of the Ferrymen, in over-loading the boat, and carrying too much sail, (it being a very windy day) it was upset, and out of 26 persons, one man only was saved.—A similar accident happened about 37 years ago at Tal y Foel, (the Ferry opposite Carnarvon) with this difference, that in the former instance the boat sunk in the day time, and the passengers instantly went down, to rise no more, and in the latter, it struck on a Sand Bank, in the middle of the Channel, during the ebb of the tide, where these unfortunate people remained for many hours, calling for that assistance, which, owing to the darkness of the night; and the violence of the storm, it was impossible to afford them. {66} Proceeding along the road, the traveller cannot but admire the singularly beautiful entrance to

CARNARVON,

which is rendered more striking by the summits of the Castle Towers, Coedhelen Summer-house, as well as the extensive Bay and foaming Bar, being distinctly seen in the rear of the Town.—Caernarvon is situated at the month of the Seiont, on a small Peninsula, formed by that river and the brook Cadnant, on the verge of the Straits of the Menai, which separate this County from the Island of Anglesey; this Town is justly the boast of North Wales, for beauty of situation—goodness of buildings—regularity of plan, and above all for the grandeur and magnificence of its Castle. Here an admirer of nature may forget his cares, in contemplating the greatness of her works, or rather the stupendous operations of His hand, whose Almighty _fiat_, and creative energy, formed this terrestrial Globe, and called into existence the “_everlasting mountains_.” This place, from its proximity to these wonderful and impregnable barriers, and its central and salubrious situation, will be found to be a most eligible station, from which the stranger may make various and pleasant excursions, some of which will be pointed out at the end of this article. The town is a square, inclosed with embattled stone walls on three sides; the Castle defending it on the South. In the West wall are two round Towers, and two others protecting the Gate at that point, called by the Welsh _Porth-yr-aur_, where there it a battery of 7 guns; three on the North, one on the N.E.; two supporting the Eastern entrance, or _Porth-mawr_, and two to the S.E. making in the whole twelve Towers.

The town is well built, the streets being at right angles, with the principal one, (the High Street). Near the Cross formerly stood the old Town Hall, which continued many years in ruins, but it has lately been re-built in a more specious and handsome manner, and is converted into a commodious Market House, containing Butchers’ Shambles, Fish Stand, and Corn Market; over these is a large room, which is made use of for the boys of the National School, until the building now erecting shall be completed; another containing at present a _Depot_ of Arms, and a smaller one, where the gentlemen of the Savings Bank Committee, together with their Clerk and Treasurer, sit from twelve till two o’clock every Saturday, to receive the weekly deposits; this is a most excellent institution, and ought to be universally known and encouraged.

The Castle is founded on a rock, and is almost entire; the enter walls are of dark grey hewn stone, (a species of lime stone) with an edging of red ones at the corners and about the windows, as also in several _fascias_, which gives it a handsome appearance. Edward I. built this Castle in a singular and elegant style, (and probably the Town likewise, on the site, and out of the ruins of one more ancient, and bearing the same name {69}) with the revenue of the See of York, then vacant; a deep narrow foss or ditch, which has been filled up some years, once defended it on the North side, or in front, over which there was a drawbridge, leading to the King’s or principal Gate, which had four Portcullises, and was a grand and elegant entrance; above it stood the figure of the Royal Founder, in the act either of drawing or sheathing his sword, probably the latter, in allusion to the Welsh war being ended,—under his feet is a defaced shield: this Gate leads into an oblong Court, originally divided into two parts, the lower, or that end containing the Regal apartments, seem to have been again protected by another Wall and Gateway, now demolished. At the West end of this area is a Polygon Tower, with three hexagon Turrets issuing from its top, on whose battlements were eagles, one of which only now remains, (which is shamefully mutilated and disfigured) whence it was called the Eagle Tower;—we have the authority of Mr. Pennant for saying that the Eagle upon the top of this Tower is with good reason supposed to be Roman, and that Edward found it at old Segontium.—In a small room, within this Tower, eleven feet by seven, Edward the Second is supposed to have been born, April 25th, 1284; a passage separates it from a similar apartment, called the _nursery_.—The correctness of this statement is however doubted by many, for if we may be allowed to judge, from the small dimensions, and present gloomy and uninviting appearance of this apartment, it does not seem probable, that the Queen of England would select it for the place of her _accouchement_, when other parts of the Castle afforded much superior accommodations; on the other hand it may be objected, that she might have fixed upon it as the place of greatest security and seclusion,—this however is certain, that tradition, which is often correct, is in favor of the small room.

From the top of the Eagle Tower, which most strangers ascend, the traveller will be able to command a grand, varied and extensive view, comprehending a great part of the Island of Anglesey, the Straits of the Menai, Carnarvon Bay, St. George’s Channel, with the whole range of Carnarvonshire Hills, from the Peaks of the Rivals, on the S.W. to the huge Pen-maen-mawr, on the N.E. being about 36 miles in extent. On the South side, next the River Seiont, are three Hexagon and three Octagon Towers, and others on the North. On the East is a magnificent entrance, called the Queen’s Gate, and through which she is supposed to have entered, with a lofty round Arch and small Postern; leading to which also, there was, no doubt, originally a draw-bridge, over the Moat, which formed the communication between the Seiont and the brook Cadnant, or present mill stream. These Towers communicate all round, by noble galleries, and several of them are surrounded by smaller Towers, peculiar to this and Conway Castle, which seem to have been the Architect’s two _Chef d’œuvre_. In the North East Tower is a deep well, half filled up, and this, or some other is said to have contained a dungeon, where it is pretended a man being once let down to bring up a dog, found a hammer, and that he saw a wooden door which he was afraid to open; the common people have a tradition, that there was a subterraneous passage either from this place or some other part of the Castle, to Coed Helen wood, on the other side of the river. Some statements assert that this immense Fortress was completed in one year; others, with more probability, assure us that it was twelve years in building. Henry Ellerton, or de Elreton, was appointed master mason, and perhaps was the Architect, and under him must have been numbers of other skilful workmen. The Welsh peasants were employed, no doubt, in waiting upon them, and supplying them with materials, great part of which was brought from the ruins of Segontium, and tradition says that much of the limestone, with which it is built, was conveyed from Twr Kelyn, near Plas Newydd, in Anglesey, and of the grit stone from Vaenol.—The Menai greatly facilitated the carriage from both places. The exterior walls are in general about three yards in thickness; and from its situation and strength, it seems to have been well adapted to overawe the newly acquired subjects of its founder.

This noble and venerable pile, from whatever point it is contemplated, or at whatever distance it is viewed, forms a most interesting object, particularly when it is considered that it was once the residence of Royalty, and gave birth to the first Prince of Wales, of the English line,—what wonder and astonishment must it not have excited in the minds of the poor peasants, dwelling at the foot of Snowdon, and unused to see any other habitations than their own humble dwellings, when beholding this vast and magnificent Castle, advancing by slow degrees, to its present height and magnitude. When it is considered that it has withstood the shocks of more than five hundred winters, it seems wonderful that it should still appear so perfect and entire; for what is there that does not at last fade and decay, and yield by degrees to the war of elements, and the siege of time:

— The Tower, that long hath stood
The crash of Thunder, and the warring Winds,
Shook by the slow but sure destroyer—Time
Now hangs in doubtful ruins o’er its base;
And flinty pyramids, and walls of brass
Descend; the Babylonian Spires are sunk;
Achaia, Rome, and Egypt moulder down.
This huge rotundity, we tread grows old;
And all those Worlds that roll about the Sun,
The Sun himself shall die and ancient night,
Again involve the desolate Abyss.

After this Monarch had subdued the Welsh, he began to secure his conquests, by erecting several strong holds, in different parts of Wales, and it appearing that Carnarvonshire, on account of its Mountains and Morasses, was a County very likely to encourage insurrections, he determined to guard as much as possible against such an event, by erecting this and Conway Castle, two of the completest and strongest Fortresses in the Principality, and perhaps not inferior to any in the Kingdom.

The reason generally assigned for the King’s conduct, in bringing his beloved Queen, Eleanor, to such a distance, and at such an inclement season of the year, (for it was in the winter) to lie in, is the following: viz. that perceiving the Welsh remembered but too keenly the oppressions of the English Officers, who in former reigns had been placed over them, they peremptorily informed the King, that they were determined not to yield obedience to any Prince, except one of their own nation; he found it necessary to make use of an innocent artifice, and a pardonable piece of policy: he therefore concealed his intentions for a time, and secretly dispatched trusty messengers to the English Court, in order to conduct the Queen into Wales; and it is related, that soon after the birth of the young Prince, he summoned together the Welsh Nobles, and persons of the greatest rank and influence in the Principality, and asked them whether they would submit to be governed by a young man born in Wales, and one who could not speak of word of English, and that when they answered him in the affirmative, he presented to them his own son, saying to them at the same time (as well as he could pronounce the words) _Eich Dyn_, {74} _i.e._ this is your man—corrupted afterwards into ICH DIEN. It ought however to have been previously mentioned, that the King was at Rhuddlan Castle, during the Queen’s confinement, and we are informed by Leland, that when Griffith Lloyd, of Tregarnedd in Anglesey, brought him the joyful intelligence of the birth of a son, he was immediately Knighted, and rewarded with one of the Manors of the Welsh Princes, called Llys yn Dinorweg, in the Parish of Llanddeiniolen, now the property of T. A. Smith, of Vaenol, Esq.—The first Governor of this Castle, appointed by Edward, was John de Havering, with a salary of 200 Marks; with which he was obliged to maintain constantly, besides his own family, fourscore men, of which fifteen were to be cross-bowmen, one Chaplain, one Surgeon, and one Smith; the rest were to do the duty of keepers of the Gates, Centinels, and other necessary Officers. In 1289, Adam de Wetenhall was appointed to the same important office. The establishment for Town and Castle was as follows: The Constable of the Castle had sometimes £60. at others only £40. The Captain of the Town had £12. 3s. 4d. for his annual fee; but this office was sometimes annexed to the former, and then Sixty was the Salary for both. The Constable and the Captain had Twenty-four Soldiers allowed them for the defence of the place, at the wages of fourpence per day each. This was considered as the amount of the establishment during peace. The Porter of the Gates of the Town had for his annual fee, £3. 10s. The following are the only instances known, of this place having suffered by the calamities of war, viz. in the great insurrection of the Welsh, under Madoc, in 1294, when they surprised the Town, during the time of a Fair, and put many English to the sword, got possession of this as well as Conway Castle, and made themselves masters of all Anglesey. During the rebellion of Owen Glyndwr, about the year 1404, Ieuan (Evan) ap Meredith, of Eifionydd, and Meredith ap Hwlkyn Llwyd, of Glynn Llifon, had the charge of the Town of Carnarvon, (as Sir John Wynne informs us), and an English Captain defended the Castle; when the said Owen Glyndwr and his party, in revenge at not being able to gain possession, burned Ievan ap Meredith’s two houses, Cefn y Fann, and Kesail gyfarch. Captain Swanly, a Parliamentarian Officer, took the Town, in 1644, made 400 prisoners, and got a great quantity of arms, ammunition, and pillage. The Royalists afterwards repossessed themselves of the place,—Lord Byron was appointed Governor,—was besieged by General Mytton, in 1646, and yielded the place on the most honorable terms. In 1648, the General himself, and Colonel Mason, were besieged in it, by Sir J. Owen, who, hearing that Colonel Carter and Colonel Twisselton were on the march to relieve the place, drew a part of his forces from the siege, in order to attack them on the way; the parties met at Dalar Hir, near Llandegai, Sir John was defeated, and made prisoner; after which, all North Wales submitted to the Parliament.

After this concise History of the Castle, we shall now endeavour to give a short description of the Town, within the walls, and then proceed to the suburbs; the former consists principally of seven streets, viz. The High Street, 2. King Street, or Castle Street, 3. Market Street, 4. Red Lion, or Plas-mawr Street, 5. Black Boy Street, 6. Newgate Street, and 7. Church Street; to which may be added, 8. _Pen y Deits_, or the head, or end of the Ditch or Moat; 9. Hole in the Wall Street, and, 10. Pepper Alley.

The High Street, which is the handsomest, consists principally of Shops and Lodging-houses, and has in its centre, (or rather at the entrance into Market Street) the old Town Hall, and, present Market House, already noticed; and at the upper or East end, over the Gateway called Porth mawr, is the present Guild-Hall, formerly an Exchequer Office, it was re-built in the year 1767, at the joint expence of Sir William Wynn, and Sir John Wynn, Baronet, as appears by an inscription in front of it; in the interior are handsome Portraits of each, as also of the late Earl of Uxbridge, father of the present Marquis of Anglesey. Here the Member for the Borough is elected; their present Representative is the Hon. Captain Paget. This place is also used as an Assembly Room, where the Michaelmas and other Balls, such as those given by the High Sheriff, during the Assizes, and by Members at elections, are held; and in order to light it up in a handsome manner, the late Lord Uxbridge presented the Corporation with a beautiful glass lustre.

The Corporation consists of a Mayor, who is as such Constable of the Castle; (the appointment is by the King, and continues during pleasure;—the Office is at present held by the Marquis of Anglesey), Deputy-Mayor, appointed by the Mayor; Two Bailiffs and a Recorder, elected annually by the Burgesses; Two Town-Stewards, Two Serjeants at Mace, One Beadle, Four Sidesmen, and Four Constables, elected annually by the Mayor and Bailiffs. These go in procession to St. Mary’s Chanel, 29th September, being Michaelmas-day, and after service return to the Guild-Hall, to elect new Officers for the ensuing year, and admit new Burgesses. There are Borough Courts held here every fortnight, to transact business, and to hear and redress grievances; at the second Court after Michaelmas-day, twelve of the Town Burgesses are sworn as a Jury, whose business it is to perambulate the liberties of the Town, to present nuisances and encroachments, as well as to see what repairs are wanted, and to make a Report of the same. At one of these, the present entrance to the Castle was presented for consideration, whether it would not be adviseable to place it in repair, but from the opinion of an eminent Barrister; who has been consulted on the occasion, it appears that the Corporation have no authority so to do, the property being vested in the King, as are also the Town Walls.