Chapter C: W. W. Wynne, Esq. M.P. Llangedwin (3)

High Street is terminated on the West by Porth yr aur, on the outside of which is a very pleasant terrace walk, on the shore of the Menai, of which it commends a full view; this and the Bangor road are considered the two fashionable promenades, of the inhabitants. Edmund Griffith, of Penrhyn, lived at Porth-yr-aur. Sir Rowland Brittayne, Constable of Carnarvon Castle, married Agnes, sister to the above Edmund Griffith; Rowland Griffith, of Carnarvon and Tref Arthen, was son of Sir William Griffith.—This last attended Henry VIII. to France, as Lewis Môn, the Welsh Bard, informs us in one of his Poems. So late as Fifty or Sixty years ago, and for a long time prior to that period, several of the principal families of this and the neighbouring County, had a Town House at Carnarvon, where they generally used to spend the winter, and others resided here constantly; most of these were persons possessed of good incomes, and many of them kept their own carriages, had always a goad table, and lived in the good old hospitable style of their ancestors, so that when a gentleman happened to come into the town, if he had any acquaintance with some of these families, he generally went to his friend’s house, and not to an Inn. Carnarvon was not at that time become such a commercial place as it is at present. These houses, and indeed every gentleman’s residence, was then, and is still distinguished by the name of _Plas_. The above short introduction was thought necessary in order to notice some of these old Mansions, which have either been taken down, deserted, or converted to other uses: Plas Issa, at one time the property of the Coed Helen Family, and Porth yr aur, belonging to the late Evan Lloyd, of Maes y Porth, Esq. were two old houses of this description, at the lower end of this street, the one taken down, and the other in ruins; Plas Bowman, between Church Street and Market Street, was another, and in King’s Head Street, there is one still left, _Plas Llanwnda_, where the proprietor, R. Garnons, Esq. resided for several months in the winter; and with true gentlemanly politeness supports the ancient credit of the House, for munificence and hospitality, and kind attention to the wants of the poor. Quirt is another house in this street, at one time belonging to the Williams’s of Quirt, in Anglesey, and of Glan yr afon, in this County, which was made use of several years as an Inn. In this Street also, at the back part of a public house, called Glan yr afon, is an old building; supposed to have been at one time either a Chapel belonging to the garrison, or to some private family. Plas Spicer, in Church Street, is an old house which claims our attention next, once belonging to a family of that name, but which has long since been extinct. Plas Mawr, belonging to William Griffith, Esq. a branch of the Vaenol and Penrhyn families, then resident at Trefarthen, in Anglesey, and Plas Pilston, the present Red Lion, are the two last we shall mention. There is a handsome Monument to the memory of the former at Llanbeblig, which we shall notice when we come to describe that Church, over the door are the following initials, W.G. M.G.—in another part, J. G. M. G. date, 1590. With respect to the latter, it is remarkable only on account of its antiquity, and the fate of its original Proprietor, Sir Roger de Puleston, a distinguished favourite of Edward I. He had been appointed Sheriff, and Keeper of the County of Anglesey, in 1284: what office he held here is uncertain; but being directed in 1294, to levy the subsidy for the French war, a Tax the Welsh had never been accustomed to, they took up Arms, and hanged De Pulesdon, and several of his people. This was a signal for a general Insurrection,—Madoc, a Relation of the late Prince Llywelyn, headed the people of this County. Edward marched against them in person, and with great difficulty reduced the country to submit again to his yoke.

In Newgate Street, is the County Gaol, built about 18 or 20 years ago, by Mr. Penson of Wrexham; it was then considered by much too large, but we lament to say that at present it is frequently crowded; adjoining, but fronting Ditch Street, is the County Hall, at the West end of which is the Grand Jury Room, both spacious and commodious. In the former, over the Bench, is the likeness of J. Garnons, Esq. at one time Prothonotary on this Circuit; in the latter, that of Hugh Leycester, Esq. our highly respected Chief Justice: a gentleman, who by his upright conduct, inflexible integrity, just and impartial decisions, and deep legal knowledge, has deservedly acquired a very high reputation in his profession; and who by his politeness of manners, and affability of demeanour, has justly endeared himself to the Inhabitants of this part of the Principality, and particularly to the Gentlemen of this County, who wishing to retain among them the resemblance of the person whom they so highly esteem and respect, and with whom they have been in the habit of friendly intercourse for many years, have requested him to sit for his picture, the expence of which was defrayed by voluntary Contributions; from the eagerness to come forward on the occasion, the Subscription was completed in a very short time, besides leaving a handsome surplus in the hands of the Committee, who gave £20 of it to the Widows and Orphans of those who perished in the Brig Elizabeth, which was upset and lost early last year, near Carnarvon Bar; the remainder is placed in the Bank, to be appropriated to the first charitable purpose that offers. Adjoining the Grand Jury Room are the Offices of the Prothonotary and Clerk of the Peace, and near to these, outside of the walls, at the extremity of the Quay or Pier, is the Custom-House, a substantial and convenient modern Building.

St. Mary’s Chapel, is situated on the North West, of the Town, adjoining one of the Towers of the Wall: it is represented by most authors, as having originally been built for the use of the Garrison, and to have afterwards been claimed by the Corporation. Some years ago, either the Curate, or the Clerk by his direction, used to go about the town at Easter, to collect Donations and Subscriptions, for performing English Service, in this Chapel. It is now generally called the Town Church, and is served by the Vicar of Llanbeblig. It was rebuilt in the year 1812, (with the exception of the old arches) partly by Subscription, assisted by the Corporation, who annually let a number of Pews as their property. The Marquis of Anglesey presented them with an excellent Organ, which is considered a very fine toned Instrument.

The Suburbs, or Town without the Walls, consists of the following Streets: viz. Porth-mawr Street; the Bank or Dock Quay, where there are several good brick houses; Y Pendist, or Turf Square; Crown Street; Bangor Street; Old Boot Street: North Pen yr allt, or Toot-Hill Street; South Pen yr allt, formerly called, Stryd y Priciau Saethu; Pont Bridd, or Bridge Street; Stryt y Llyn, or Pool Street; Treffynon, or Holywell; Tre’r Gof, or Smithfield; Skinners Lane; Y Maes Glas, or Green; and the Green Gate Street.

Carnarvon is greatly improved, and considerably enlarged within these last thirty years;—at the entrance from Bangor, the Uxbridge Arms Hotel, a large, handsome, and commodious Inn, was built by the late Lord Uxbridge, which is kept by Mr. George Bettiss, and where the Traveller will meet with every attention and civility, and will find the accommodations excellent, and the charges reasonable.—Within the same period was erected that handsome row of houses called the Green, terminated on the East side by the Goat Inn, built by Thomas Jones, Esq., of Bryntirion, who is the proprietor thereof; here also the Stranger will meet with every attention, and where the accommodations are good, and the charges moderate. In front of these houses there was a high bank, some years ago, which, besides intercepting the view, was very inconvenient to ascend and descend, particularly at the time of fairs, which are held here; this was removed about four years ago, partly by Subscription, but chiefly at the expence of the Parish and Corporation, who employed the Poor during those dear Times, in removing the earth, and wheeling it down to the Quay, which also was erected about eighteen years ago, and has lately been extended, and rendered more spacious and convenient, so that it now affords every facility and accommodation to Vessels loading and unloading. The Slate Quarries, (as has before been observed) are the chief sources of the Wealth and Commerce of this County; and in these, thousands of the Inhabitants, are constantly employed; and scores, if not hundreds of Waggons and Carts are engaged in bringing down the productions of the Quarries to this Town, where they are shipped to various parts of the World. The average annual Amount of Exports from Port of Carnarvon, is at present, about £50,000, but there is every reason to suppose, that, were Rail-roads formed from the several Slate Quarries in the neighbourhood, the Export Trade would be very much increased; as then a supply of Sates might always be secured on the Quays; whereas now, from the uncertainty of such supply, and the consequent delay, proprietors and masters of Vessels are unwilling to expose themselves to the risque of incurring a heavy expence, in waiting their turn to load; this operates more particularly on large Vessels, their expences being heavy, in proportion to their size; and it is certain, that many Americans and other foreigners, are deterred by these circumstances from coming to this Port for Slate.

The long desired Light on Bardsey Island, the establishment of which is now decided on, and which it is intended by the Corporation of Trinity House, shall be exhibited in the ensuing Autumn, is likely to prove of incalculable benefit; not only to the Coasting Trade of this and the neighbouring Ports, but to Trade in general.

Steam Packets might be established between Carnarvon and Dublin. At times when the tide might not answer for landing at the Town, on account of the difficulty of passing the Bar, they would always find a safe and commodious landing place at Llanddwyn Point, about seven miles distant from Carnarvon; with the capability of a good Carriage Road to the Town being made, at a small expence. The late improvements at Llanddwyn, have rendered it particularly eligible for the above purpose, the Trustees of Carnarvon Harbour having erected a Breakwater, and Beacon, for the safety and comfort of Navigators. The distance from Carnarvon to Capel Curig, through the beautiful and romantic Pass of Llanberis, is eighteen miles; from Holyhead, by Bangor Ferry forty-two miles: The traveller would therefore save twenty-four miles, by adopting the former line.

This Town is capable of much improvement, as a place of resort for strangers, particularly in the Summer season; at which period, it is even now visited by many, but from the want of sufficient comfortable accommodation, and other conveniences to induce them to remain, a weekly, nay almost a daily change is observable, in a continued succession of visitors. Were comfortable Lodging Houses erected, with Baths attached, (which might be done with much ease) and the shore cleared, at certain convenient points, with public Machines, and Attendants, there is little doubt of this delightfully situated Town, becoming in a short time a favourite Watering Place, and consequently, improving rapidly.

Edward I. bestowed on Carnarvon its first Royal Charter, and made it a free Borough: among other privileges, none of the Burgesses could be convicted of any crime committed between the Rivers Conway and Dyfi, unless by a Jury of their own Townsmen. The representative of the place is elected by its Burgesses, and those of Conway, Pwllheli, and Crickaeth; the right of voting is in every one, resident, or non-resident, admitted to their Freedom. Bondsmen in former times, living in the Town a year and a day, and paying scot and lot, gained their liberty, and in those days Jews were not permitted to reside here. The first member was John Puleston; and the second time it sent representatives, (which was the 1st Edward VI) it chose Robert Puleston, and the County elected John, as if both Town and County determined to make reparation to the family, for the cruelty practised on their ancestor. It gives the title of Marquis to James Brydges, Lord Chandos; and that of Earl, to Henry Herbert, Baron Porchester, who was created a Baron Oct. 17, 1780, and advanced to the Earldom June 29, 1793. Leland, who travelled through this County, in the time of Henry VIII. makes the following observation, with regard to the situation of Carnarvon, in his Itinerary, “Cadnant brook, rising three miles off, cometh through the Town Bridge of Caernarvon, and goeth by itself into the Menai area, so that Caernarvon standeth betwixt two Rivers, both coming into the said straits of the Menai.”

In this Parish there are 700 Houses assessed for Poor’s Rate, 517 of which are in the Town; adding to these the number of families excused from poverty, and those who receive parochial Relief, it may reasonably be inferred, that the Population of Carnarvon is about 6000, exclusive of Mariners. There needs no other observation on the salubrity of the air, than the following extract from the Report of the Select Vestry of Carnarvon, in 1819:—“Among those who receive Parochial Relief, are 19, aged from 80 to 90 years; 28, from 70 to 80; 42, from 60 to 70; and 39, from 50 to 60.”

In the Town are the following Dissenting Chapels, a Presbyterian Chapel in Bangor Street,—the Calvinist’s at Pen yr allt,—the Wesleyans’ in Smithfield, or Tre’r gof, and the Baptists’ at Treffynon. There are five Fairs held annually at Carnarvon, viz. March 12th, May 16th, August 12th, September 20, and December 5.

The following beautiful Stanzas, appeared in the North Wales Gazette, November 27, 1812, signed JUNIUS, which may not be thought out of place here; they were written by Mr. B. Brocas, at that time residing in this Town:

Does thy Harp, O Cambria, Slumber?
Are thy sainted Bards no more?
Once it breath’d a sweeter number
Than e’er sigh’d round Scylla’s shore.

Where are now those magic wonders,
Which its touch could once inspire?
Where thy Minstrels’ martial thunders,
Glanc’d from hands and lips of fire.

Are thy glories sunk for ever,
Are they set to rise no more?
Must we henceforth hail them never,
On this muse-deserted shore?

Yes! prophetic Science hear’s me,
Thus bewail her ancient seat,
Lifts her spoil crown’d head, and cheers me,
Echoing thus the cry of fate:—

“Thy bless’d shade, O Taliesin!
Waft on soft Elysian gales,
To impart thy heav’n-taught lesson,
To some favour’d child of Wales.

“Let Thy Spirit hover o’er him,
Strike him with thy hallow’d fire:
Prostrate nations shall adore him,
Deck’d with Thy immortal lyre.

“Thus shall Cambria once more flourish,
High, as e’er in times of yore;
And her sacred soil, still nourish
Heav’n born bards for evermore.”

We cannot quit this place without informing the stranger, (if he be not already aware of the circumstance) that a Society has been lately established here, as well as in the other Divisions of the Principality, which has been denominated the “_Cymmrodorion Society in Gwynedd_;” and whose object is the preservation of Ancient British Literature,—Poetical, Historical, Antiquarian, Sacred, and Moral, and the encouragement of National Music. The term Cymmrodorion has been adopted, (as specified by the Members of the Committee in Powys) more particularly out of respect to an ancient Society of that name, established in London, 1751, under the Patronage of his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales. An Eisteddfod, or Congress of Bards, was held at Carmarthen, July 8, 1819, under the sanction of Lord Dynevor, and the Bishop of St. David’s; and another at Wrexham, September 13, 1820, under the Patronage of Sir W. W. Wynne. A similar Meeting is to take place at Carnarvon, sometime in the course of the ensuing Autumn, when our greatly esteemed and highly respected Lord Lieutenant, Viscount Warren Bulkeley, it is hoped will preside. Several Meetings have already been held, a Committee formed, and regulations made in order to promote its success, and ensure a full attendance.

Old Segontium occupies the summit of a hill, about a quarter of a mile to the South East of the present Town, and is intersected by the road leading to Bethgelert; its ancient British name was Caer Sallawg: {91} it is about 150 yards in length, and 100 wide; some remains of the Roman Walls are still visible, (now covered with Ivy) particularly near the South East corner. Some years back there appeared the remnant of a building, made with tiles, and plaistered with very hard and smooth mortar; this is supposed to have been part of a _Hypocaust_. The mortar in all other parts is very hard, and mixed with much gravel, and sand. This ancient Station forms an oblong of very considerable extent, seemingly from four to six Acres. Camden suspects that this might have been the _Setantiorum_, Porlus of Ptolemy being willing to read it _Segontiorum_, but the situation of the former is certainly at the mouth of the Ribble. He is most probably right, in supposing it to have been, in after times, named Caer Cwstenin, or the Castle of Constantine; and that _Hugh Lupus_, who certainly invaded Anglesey, in 1098, had here a temporary post. Mathew of Westminster asserts, (but upon what authority is not mentioned) that Constantius, father of Constantine, was interred here, and that Edward caused the body to be taken up, and honourably reburied in the Church, (probably of St. Publicius). Mr. Rowlands in his history of Anglesey says, that Helen, the supposed mother of this reputed Saint had a Chapel {92} here, which, he tells us, was in being in his days. Near the steep Bank of the Seiont, about one hundred yards from the end of Pool Street, and divided by the road leading to Clynnog and Pwllheli, are the ruins of a Roman Fort, connected, no doubt, with Old Segontium, and intended, as it is conjectured, to protect the landing from the river.—On two sides the walls are pretty entire, one is seventy-four yards long, the other sixty-four; height ten feet eight inches, thickness six feet. A great part of the facing is taken away, which discovers the peculiarity of the Roman masonry; it consists of regular courses, the others have the stones disposed in zigzag fashion. Along the walls are three parallel lines of round holes, not three inches in diameter (nicely plaistered within) which pass through the whole thickness. There are other similar holes, which are discovered in the end of the Wall, and some to run through it lengthways. There are various conjectures respecting the use for which these were intended, the most probable is, that they were for the purpose of holding the scaffolding, which were supported, it is likely, by cylindrical iron bars, and when taken out, the air was admitted to harden the mortar, which was poured into the work in a liquid state. Near one corner, some years ago, the foundation of a round Tower was discovered; it was paved, and in it were found the horn of a deer, and skeletons of some lesser animals. There were similar ruins on the opposite shore, and within these few years, in scouring the channel of the river, large pieces of a curious old foot Bridge were discovered, supposed to have been Roman.—A gold coin, of about seventeen shillings weight, was found here, inscribed T. DIVI AVG FIL AVGVSTVS. And a small one, of mixed metal, with a head, and the following legend on one side: ANTONINVS AVG PIVS P P TR. P. XXII. on the other a female figure, leading a small animal with her right hand, and holding a spear in her left, and the following letters, SALVTI AVG COS IIII. And a stone with the following Letters, continued for many years, in a wall near the road, about the centre of Segontium, and which has lately disappeared, S V C supposed by some to mean, Segontium urbs Constantine. Cadwallon, one of the Princes of Wales, about A.D. 620, (on account of Anglesey being infested by the Irish and Pictish Rovers) removed the British Court from Aberffraw, where it had been placed about 200 years before, by Caswallon law hir, to Segontium. The Roman road from Segontium to Dinorwig, and thence to Cornovium, was visible on a part of Rhos Bodrual, till within these few years, when that part of the Common was cultivated.

The Mother or Parish Church of Carnarvon, called Llanbeblig, is situated about one hundred yards beyond, or to the East of old Segontium, and according to our Historians, is dedicated to St. Publicius, Son of Macsen Wledig, (Maximus the Tyrant) and his Wife Helen, Daughter of Endef, Duke of Cornwal.—It is said that he retired from the World, and took a religious habit. Richard II. bestowed this Church, and the Chapel at Carnarvon, on the Nuns of St. Mary’s, in Chester, in consideration of their poverty; and in the recital of another Charter of the same Prince, it is mentioned that his Grandfather, Edward III. had bestowed on those Religious, the Advowson of Llangathen, in Carmarthenshire; both which on the Dissolution, were annexed to the See of Chester, and remain to this day, under the Patronage of the Bishop of that Diocese. In a recess to the North of the Communion Table, is an elegant Altar Tomb, with the following inscription: Here lieth the body of William Griffith, Esq. the Son of William Griffith, Knight, who died Nov. 28, 1587, and Margaret his Wife, Daughter of John Wynne ap Meredith, Esq. who built this Tomb, 1593. {95}—Their figures are in white Marble, lying on a mat, admirably carved; he is in armour, she has on a short quilled ruff, and ruffles at her wrists, in a long gown, and a sash around her waist. And in the Churchyard, some years ago, was the following, which it may be useful to preserve, as it is very probable that a house in this neighbourhood, _Cae Bold_, took its name from this family:—Here lyeth the body of Ellin Bold, Daughter of William Bold, Esq. and Wife to John Ranshcraf, of Breton, Gent. who died 1st day of April, 1663. And near it the following: Here lyeth interred the body of John Smyth, of Carnarvon, the elder, who died the 23d day of May, A.D. 1645. In the late Mr. Foxwist’s pew, in the said Church, on a brass plate, is the following inscription;

In quo præ multis, scribend i gloria fulsit,
Ricardus Foxwist, hic pede tritus adest,
Annus Christi tutus fuit M.D: luce patrici
Dum tenet expirans, vulnera quinque tua;
Corporis atque tui, tandem pars, aditur alt’ra,
Dum conjux uno, clauditur in tumulo,
Hæcque Johanna fuit, ac _Spicer_ nata Johanne;
Pauperibus larga, justa, pudica; fuit,

Several pleasant excursions may be recommended to the Tourist, whilst resident at Carnarvon: 1st. He may either cross the Strait by the Carnarvon Ferry, called Tal y Foel, and examine Newborough, (once the seat of our ancient Princes) and that part of the Anglesey coast, or, engage a boat, and sail down to Aber Menai; visit the Barracks, called by the Welsh Y Belan, and proceed from thence to the once celebrated Peninsula of Llanddwyn, which, though in the time of Edward III. it contained only eight small houses, (then called _Weles_,) yet in the reign of Henry VIII. was one of the richest Prebends in the Cathedral of Bangor; its wealth arose not from the real fertility of the place, but from the superstition of the common people—from pilgrimages to crosses, reliques, Holy wells, ordeals, and what Mr. Rowlands calls _ichthuomania_, or divination from Fishes.—In the time of Owen Glyndwr, one Yorwerth Vychan, Rector of Llanddoged, made pretentions to the Offerings, and sacrilegiously seized on them; but Griffith le Yonge, Chancellor to that Chieftain, interfered, and by a decree of his, put a stop to the invasion of the rights of the place: Here are still visible the ruins of the old Church, dedicated to St. Dwywen, Daughter of Brychan, one of the holy _Colidei_, or primitive Christians of Britain, who distinguished themselves by living in seclusion and retirement.—Near it are some of the remains of the prebendal house:—The first appears to have been no inelegant building; the last is noted for the residence of Richard Kyffin, Rector of this place, and Dean of Bangor, before mentioned. The Barracks, above alluded to, were created about 35 or 40 years ago, by the late Lord Newborough, of Glyn Llifon, when he was Colonel of the Militia of this County, for the accommodation of the men when called out on permanent duty.

Some of the Inhabitants of Carnarvon are frequently employed in fishing, during the greatest part of the year, both in the Menai and Carnarvon Bay; the fish principally taken are the following, viz. Cod, Turbot, Soles, Salmon, Mullet, Bream, Ray, &c. all excellent in their kind; Oysters are also taken on the Anglesey coast. There is a small Creek, or Harbour near the point of Llanddwyn, where vessels frequently put in to await the return of the Tide. A red and a black Buoy, and also a Perch, have been placed near the entrance of Carnarvon Bar, for the direction of Navigators. The Botanist, Naturalist, Sailor, or Sportsman, would find sufficient employment, and meet with considerable amusement during a short voyage of this description, as there are varieties of Shells on the sea shore, some scarce Plants on the rocks, and Rabbits in the sand banks. The Straits of the Menai have frequently been the scene of many a bloody encounter between the Welsh, Irish; Danes, &c. and the reader may not probably be displeased with our introducing here, a part of Gray’s spirited version of the Rev. Evan Evans’s translation of Gwalchmai’s Ode, {98a} celebrating the victory of Prince Owen Gwynedd, over three fleets of Irish, Danish, and Norman Pirates, at Tal y Foel, nearly opposite Carnarvon, on the Anglesey Coast, about the year 1158: “Ardwyrëaf hael o hil Rodri,” &c.

Owen’s praise demands my Song,
Owen swift and Owen strong,—
Fairest flower of Roderick’s stem,—
Gwynedd’s shield, and Britain’s gem:
He nor heaps his brooded stone,
Nor on all profusely pours;
Lord of every regal art,
Liberal hand, and open heart.

Big with hosts of mighty name,
Squadron’s three against him came;
This the force of Erin hiding,
Side by side as proudly riding;
On her shadow, long and gay
Lochlin plows the wat’ry way:
There, the Norman sails afar,
Catch the winds, and join the war;
Black and huge along they sweep,
Burthens of the angry deep.

Dauntless on his native sands,
The Dragon {98b} son of Mona stands,
In glittering arms and glory drest,
High he rears his ruby crest.
There the thund’ring strokes begin,
There the press, and there the din;
_Tal y Moelfre’s_ {98c} rocky shore
Echoing to the battle’s roar;
Check’d by the torrent tide of blood,
Backward _Menai_ rolls his flood;
While heap’d the Hero’s feet around,
Prostrate warriors gnaw the ground:
Where his glowing eye-balls turn,
Thousand banners round him burn;
Where he points his purple spear,
Hasty, hasty rout is there;
Marking with indignant eye,
Fear to stop, and shame to fly:
There Confusion, Terror’s child,
Conflict fierce, and Ruin wild,
Agony, that pants for breath,
Despair, and honourable death.

The next expedition we shall recommend is a visit to the Llanllyfni Slate Quarries, and the Nantlle (or as they were formerly called the Bala Deulyn) Lakes, then proceed by Drws y Coed, to the Bethgelert road, and return by Quellyn Lake and Bettws Village to Carnarvon. Part of this rout, particularly from the Quarries to the main road, leading from Carnarvon to Bethgelert, will not admit of a four-wheeled Carriage, and it would be difficult to take even a Gig along that portion of it. The whole of this circuit, as before described, round the huge Mynydd-mawr, (a mountain which forms so remarkable a feature in the landscape from Carnarvon) will make a distance probably of about one and twenty miles. Persons who may be induced to examine this interesting part of the County, would do well to hire ponies at Carnarvon, and set off after an early breakfast; they would then be able to return by three or four o’clock. The first part of the journey, for two miles and a half, is along the Pwllheli road; about that distance, (a few yards beyond a small bridge) the turn on the left must be taken, afterwards the Slate Carts (of which the stranger will meet with a great number) will be a sufficient direction. It is thought necessary to mention these particulars, as there are neither mile stones nor finger posts to point the way, and but few of the country people understand the English language; the stranger would therefore act wisely to engage a good intelligent guide, well recommended by some gentleman resident at Carnarvon. Pont Seiont (above and below which the Scenery is very beautiful) is a bridge within a short mile of the town, and between which and Pont Newydd, (another bridge over the River Gwyrfai, a mile further,) there is a Manor belonging to the Bishop of Bangor, called _Castellmai_, the principal Freeholders in which, 1647, were the following, as appears by the Extent Book: Dr. Williams, late Archbishop of York, W. Glynn, Esq. John Bodvell, Esq. Hugh Gwynn, Esq. John Robins, Esq. William Spicer, Esq. Sir W. Williams, Bart. Richard Prytherch, Esq.; Parish of Llanfaglan, ditto, John Bodvell, Esq. Wm. Foxwist, Esq. Thomas Glynn, Esq. Hugh Griffith, Esq. Richard Prytherch, Esq. John Robins, Esq.: Llanwnda Parish,—William Foxwist, Esq. Hugh Gwynn, Esq. Thomas Williams, Esq. and Thomas Glynn, Esq.

There is a called Gwaredog, a little to the S.E. of the last mentioned bridge, which is celebrated (according to our Welsh Pedigrees) as the birth-place of the renowned Patrick, the Patron Saint of the Irish; has genealogy is thus given, in Bonedd y Saint, published in the Myvyrian Archaiology: Padric Sant ap Alfryd ap Gronwy ap Gwdion ap Dôn o Waredawg yn Arvon. Several other places contend for this honor, such as Abergwaun, or Fishguard, in Pembrokeshire; Ystrad Clwyd, (or Clyde’s Dale) in Scotland, and several places in Ireland. The river _Gorfai_ is the boundary between the two Commots of Uwch and Is-Gorvai, in the Hundred or Cantrev of Arvon. About half a mile beyond Pont Newydd, on the right, is Dinas Dinoethny, the residence of Captain Jones.—This appears to have been one of the principal Roman Encampments in this neighbourhood, and to have had several small out-posts connected with it, which was the case also with Dinas Dinlle, a remarkable _tumulus_, or eminence, on the sea-coast, about two miles further, as well as with Craig y Dinas, on the river Llyfni, and Dinorwig, in the parish of Llanddeiniolen, before mentioned; a list of which, together with the subordinate Posts, connected with them, we shall hereafter insert. About a quarter of a mile beyond Dinas Dinoethwy, on the right, is Llanwnda, a small Church, dedicated to _St. Gwyndaf_. The Rectorial Tithes are annexed to the Headship of Jesus College, Oxford, and the small Vicarage, which is discharged and consolidated with the Chapel of Llan Faglan, dedicated to St. Baglan, situated near Aber menai, is in the Patronage of the Bishop of Bangor. The population of Llanwnda, in 1801, was 826, and of Llan Faglan 102. Near a small bridge, (as before-mentioned) called Glann y Rhyd, the Tourist will follow the left hand road until he arrives within a mile of the village of Llanllyfni, when he will again turn on the left, near a smithy, and proceed towards the Slate Quarries; and he will soon perceive, when he enters this little vale, that the Scenery here, as well as in most parts of North Wales, unfolds its beauty gradually as the traveller advances, until at last it displays itself in all its grandeur and magnificence. This Defile is bounded on the South and East by mountains of considerable height and magnitude, which assume a variety of shapes and characters as we proceed. It was from this narrow vale, which is but little known to strangers, that Wilson took his celebrated view of Snowdon, which has been so much and so deservedly admired; the situation was probably near the Nantlle Lakes, where Edward I. in the summer of 1284, resided for some days; and from thence issued several of his Edicts, some dated July 17, and others the 20th, and one from Carnarvon, as late as the 22nd of October in the same year, which shews what attention he paid to the establishment of governments in his new Dominions. The place which he occupied here during that time, was called Bala {103} Deulyn, and had been in the possession of the descendants of the Welsh Princes, ever since the time of Owen Gwynedd, as appears from authorities mentioned in Sir John Wynne’s History of the Gwydir Family, to which we have before alluded.

The principal Slate Quarries (which are near these lakes) are the Cilgwyn and Havodlas; here there is a Steam Engine, to supply the place of another, which lately fell into the quarry, and was broke; they are situated in the Parish of Llandwrog, (which we soon shall have occasion to notice in our progress to Clynog) and their produce is conveyed to Carnarvon. The variation in the size of the Slates took place about 75 years ago; before that time, they were all nearly of the same dimensions, and very small; but a larger sort having been introduced, it became necessary, for the sake of distinction, to give them a new name, and being _doubled_ in size, and also in price, they were denominated _Doubles_, and one thousand of these were considered and accounted by the Workmen as equal to _two_ thousand; the first sort was therefore distinguished by the name of _Singles_.—Some time after, another sort was introduced, increasing still in size, so as to double those called _doubles_, and were therefore called _Double doubles_, and the men counted every thousand of these as four thousand: afterwards a still larger sort was found necessary, and General Warburton, the proprietor of the Penrhyn Estate, being in the country about that time, is said to have given these last, the honorable name of _Countesses_; and the former, viz. the double doubles, he denominated _Ladies_; since that time two others of still greater magnitude have been added, which are distinguished by the names of _Duchesses_ and _Queens_. The colour of these States, as well as those of Cefn Du, in the Parishes of Llanbeblig and Llanrug, though of an equally good, if not better quality, differ a little from those of Cae Braich y Cafn, or Mr. Pennant’s Quarry, the former being either of a brown cast, or red tinge, while the latter are of a dark blue. Some of the Welsh have supposed that an ancient prophecy of Merddyn ap Morvran, (or Merlinus Caledonius) received its accomplishment when these Quarries were discovered, and so many men employed, viz. That the time would come, when the rocks of Carnarvonshire would be converted into bread. It is to be regretted that the proprietors of these numerous Slate Quarries, do not unite together, and form a good Iron Rail Road, or tram-way, to Carnarvon, which though it may be attended with great expence in the execution, would eventually be productive of considerable advantage to the adventurers.—And as we are upon this subject, we cannot help lamenting another circumstance which proves a considerable diminution of the benefits arising from these sources of support and employment to the labouring Poor, viz. that so many accidents, by the sudden explosions of charges of Gunpowder, the falling of Stones, rubbish, and fragments of Rocks, &c. and breaking of ropes, whereby many of the workmen are lamed and maimed, and others lose their sight, and thus become chargable to different Parishes. It would be desirable therefore, to have a Fund for the relief of these poor sufferers; and for this purpose, the Proprietors, or their Agents, might easily establish a Club, or Friendly Society, towards which they should contribute liberally, themselves, and also make such an arrangement, that a small sum should be allotted, either weekly or monthly, from the wages of the Labourers, towards their support when incapacitated, either by casualties or illness, from following their usual occupation; and also for the purpose of procuring medical advice.

Llanllyfni, before mentioned, is a small Village on the road to Crickaeth, Penmorva, and Tremadoc.—It is a discharged Rectory, valued in the King’s Books at £7 17_s._ 6_d._ and dedicated to St. Rhediw, a Saint (says Mr. W. Owen Pughe) whose history is not known; he is supposed to have been buried here; and his well, his seat, the print of his Horse’s foot, and the mark of his Thumb on a Stone, are still pretended to be shewn. Near the upper end of this narrow pass are some Copper Mines, where some few workmen are employed, but the Vein is small, and the quantity of Ore hitherto obtained, though of a good quality, has been very inconsiderable.

The curious Visitor of these mountainous districts, will be induced, no doubt, before he descends into the Bethgelert road, to call at Drws-y-coed, a mountain Farm, near which, in a small Lake, known by the name of _Llyn y Dywarchen_, is the celebrated Floating Island, mentioned by Giraldus, and which he denominates _insula erratica_; what is dignified with the name of Island, is merely a considerable portion of the Turbery ground, on the side of this small Pool, undermined, and torn off, and adhering together by the entangling of the Roots, of such Plants as generally grow on Bogs and Morasses. Here may be found the Nymphœa lutea & alba, or yellow and white Water Lily, (and other Aquatic Plants) which are not uncommon in most of the Lakes in the vicinity of Snowdon. If the Traveller be so disposed, and the weather favourable, he will here have an opportunity of ascending Snowdon, from the Guide’s House, near Cawellyn (Quellyn) Lake; from whence there is a tolerable Horse Path till within a quarter of a mile of the apex, made for the purpose of bringing down Copper Ore from Bwlch glas, a gap, or opening between the two summits of Snowdon. This and the one along the side of Cwm Brwynog, in the Parish of Llanberris, (which we shall hereafter more particularly describe) are considered the two easiest and safest ascents; and along either of which, any person, who is a tolerable horseman, may ride a Welsh Pony, as far as the spot above mentioned.

We shall now conduct the Stranger to the Village of Llanberis, which on account of its singular situation, at the end of a Lake, in a narrow Vale, nearly at the foot of Snowdon, is well worth his attention. The distance from Carnarvon is about ten miles; the first five of which, so far as a place called Cwm y Glo, (though rough, uneven, and greatly injured by the Slate Carts) will admit of a Carriage; and from thence a Boat may be engaged. After travelling about a mile and a half from Carnarvon, we obtain a view of the River Seiont, and having proceeded along its banks a short way, we cross it, over a handsome Arch, built in 1769, by one Henry Parry, as appears by a stone in the Battlement, and where he is underservedly denominated the modern _Inigo_: afterwards we turn to the left; on an eminence to the right, at a little distance from the road, is Llanrug, {108} a small Church, dedicated to St. Michael, and formerly called Llanfihangel yn Rûg. Some years ago, the following little Sonnet was written on beholding this small structure, after a few weeks absence:

Oft as yon Fane presents its simple form;
That small shrill Bell, that duly tolls aloud
Each day of rest,—to call the rustic croud;
Yon aged Yew-tree, bending with the storm;
The thought recurs—that by indulgent Heaven,
This humble flock, to feed with constant care,
Their morals form, and truths divine declare,
To me unworthy, has the charge been given.
Then let me still, their faithful Pastor prove,
By precepts teach, and bright example lead
My flock the upward road, to bliss; and read
With fervor due His word, whose name is _Love_!
When thus my work is finish’d, and my race is run,
That Great, Good Shepherd may pronounce “well done.”

The extent of the Parish is about five miles in length, and two in breadth: the number of Inhabited Houses in 1811, was 158, and of Inhabitants, 682.—It is a small Rectory, and valued in the King’s Books at £5 12_s._ 6_d._ When arrived at the foot of a Hill, the road to the left must be taken, which leads to Cwm y Glo before mentioned, consisting of a group of Cottages, in a snug romantic situation, greatly and deservedly admired; and near them a small Harbour, for Boats employed in fishing, and bringing down Slate and Copper Ore.—On the top of the Hill, before we descend to this place, there is a circular Rock on the left, strongly fortified, which was probably a subordinate post to Dinas Dinlle, Dinas Dinoethwy, and Dinas Dinorwig, before mentioned, and which being at the entrance of this narrow pass, served to communicate any signal to Dolbadern Castle, which is situated on a Rock between the two Lakes, and from whence again, any notice, or intelligence of an enemy’s approach, was conveyed to the upper end of the Vale, and so on to Capel Curig, Dolwyddelen, &c. From this Rock there is a most grand and magnificent view, which on account of its opening suddenly and unexpectedly, has the effect of enchantment. Snowdon seems to soar in proud pre-eminence, and to look down upon the surrounding subject Hills with conscious superiority; some of which however, such as Erlidir, Garn, and Glydair, on the left, (or North of the Vale) Crib Goch, and Carnedd Higgon, on the right, appear to rival their Majestic Lord. This grand scenery,—this wonderful display of the works of the Most High, appears again to great advantage, as we enter the Lake from the channel of the River; but before we proceed, it will be proper to give a short account of a very extra ordinary personage, (_Margaret ferch Evan_,) who lived near this place, and denominated by Mr. Pennant, Queen of the Lakes.—He observes further, that when he visited her Cottage, at Penllyn, in 1786, she was about ninety years of age, and says, that she was the last specimen of the strength and spirit of the ancient British Fair; but the correctness of this remark may justly be doubted, as there is a Female, (Catherine Thomas) now living at Cwm glas, (about a mile above the Church of Llanberis) who is by no means inferior to Mr. P’s Heroine, either in strength or agility: the following anecdote related by herself, may be mentioned as an instance of her uncommon courage; some years age, as she was one day watching her Sheep on one of the Rocks near her house, she perceived a Stranger, (to all appearance a very strong, lusty man) enter in, and having remained there a short time, he departed; Catherine hastened home, and having examined her Cottage; she discovered that the Stranger had stolen a Silk Handkerchief, and several other articles of wearing Apparel; she immediately pursued him, and having taken in her hand the post of a small gate or wicket, and taking a shorter path, she overtook him near Gorphwysfa, almost at the upper end of the pass, (a most lonely situation) and having laid hold of him with one hand, she shook him well, in order to convince him of her strength, and then struck him with the club, or rather post, that was in the other, saying at the same time, You villain! how dare you enter into my house and steal my property? she then took from him his Wallet, and adding, Let me see what thou hast got in this bag? then emptying the contents, she took up her own property, and after giving him one or two more hard strokes, she charged him at his peril, never to enter that Vale again, otherwise he would not be suffered to depart without a much severer chastisement. The following is another instance of her extraordinary strength: Mr. Jones, the Agent of the Copper Mines at Llanberis, about eighteen years ago, was superintending the loading of Ore, near the small Quay, at the upper end of the Lake; and Catherine happening to be one of the Spectators, Mr. J. went behind her unperceived, and laying hold of her, jocularly said, “now Catherine, suppose I push you into the Lake;”—presently, she also got behind him; and though he was a tall, strong, lusty than, she laid hold of him under the Shoulders, and holding him up nearly at arm’s length, Now Sir, said she, suppose I drop you in? This extraordinary woman, who is of a very masculine appearance, and has a pretty long black beard, lives in a lonely Cottage, situated beyond the usual haunts of her fellow Creatures, and without a single inmate; and though her appearance is so unfeminine, yet she is humane, gentle and charitable, esteemed and respected in her neighbourhood. After this long digression, we hasten to relate the numerous qualifications, and uncommon exploits of her rival Amazon, the before mentioned Margaret ferch Evan, whose character I shall sum up in Mr. Pennant’s own words,—She was the greatest hunter, shooter, and fisher of her time; she kept a dozen at least, of Dogs, Terriers, Greyhounds, and Spaniels, all excellent in their kinds.—She killed more Foxes in one year, than all the confederate Hunts do in ten;—rowed stoutly, and was Queen of the Lakes;—fiddled excellently, and knew all our old music;—did not neglect the mechanic arts, for she was a good Joiner, and made Cards for dressing Wool; and at the age of seventy, was the best wrestler in the country, few young men daring to try a fall with her.—Some years ago, she had a Maid of congenial qualities, but Death, “that mighty hunter,” earthed this faithful companion of her’s; Margaret was also Blacksmith, Shoemaker, Boat-builder, and maker of Harps:—she could also mow Hay, shoe her own Horses, make her own Shoes, and build her own Boats, while she was under contract to convey the Copper ore down the Lakes. We must not forget, that all the neighbouring Bards paid their addresses to her, and celebrated the exploits of their beloved _Margaret_, in pure British verse; at length she gave her hand to the most effeminate of her admirers, (who was a harper) as if predetermined to maintain the superiority which nature had bestowed on her.

About half a mile to the North of Pen y Llynn, (or the lower end of the Lake) are the remains of _Llys Dinorddwig_, a house said to have been one of the Palaces of Prince Llewelyn ap Gruffydd; the walls high and strong, the hall twenty-four yards long, and before the house is a deep ditch, over which had probably been a drawbridge. Not very far from hence is a spot called Rhiw’r Cyrn, or the Brow of the Horns, where according to ancient usage, an Officer stood and blew his horn, to give notice to the Household of the approach of their Master, or to summon the Vassals to assemble on all emergent occasions. Near this place was discovered, about twenty years ago, a Stone, about Four Feet in length, one in breadth, and about Six Inches thick, with the following inscription, IMP Q TRO DECIO VS.—Persons going up the Lake may be landed either near the New Inn, or on the Meadow below Mr. Smith’s Cottage, or they may proceed to the extremity of the upper Pool, and walk from thence to the Village, which is about a quarter of a mile distant, and procure refreshment at Robert Closs’s, who keeps a small Inn there; the Landlord of this House, as well as Pierce Jones, who lives at the other Inn, are both very civil and obliging men, and will either act as Guides themselves, or will procure persons to attend any Gentlemen up Snowdon, or to any of the neighbouring Villages: Ponies may also be obtained at both these Houses: and though the accommodations may not be equal to what we generally meet with in large Towns, and on Public Roads, yet the Botanist, the Mineralogist, the Artist, the Angler, and in short every person who is an admirer of Nature, and is fond of the wonderful and sublime, will contrive to remain a few days in this romantic, though secluded spot. One Day may be well employed in examining Mr. Smith’s Quarries, yr Allt Ddu, and Clogwyn y Gigfran, and observing the men while at work, many of whom descend fifteen or twenty yards, by the assistance of two Ropes, (one about their middle, and the other in their hands) to a small ledge, over a dreadful precipice, where they continue engaged for many hours, in boring, or detaching considerable fragments from the main Rock, and ascend again in the same manner.—A visit to Twll Du, a stupendous _roche fendue_, or split Rock, near Llyn y Cwn, about three miles North of the Village, and mentioned by Mr. Pennant, might be recommended, as a very rational and pleasing amusement for the second Day: this might also include a walk over Glydair Fawr, to examine the immense columnar Rocks on Glydair Bach; and noticed by the same Gentleman, one of which it about 25 Feet long, and six broad; the summit of this Mountain is covered with groups of these columnar Stones, lying in all directions, and in some places piled one upon the other. From the two Glydairs’ may be seen several Lakes, such as Llyn Idwal, Llyn Bochlwyd, and Llyn Ogwen; and also the Great Irish Road, leading from Bangor Ferry to Capel Curig. From this eminence may also be surveyed that most singular Mountain called Trevaen, (trifurcated) which is more conical, more insulated, and more completely detached from all the surrounding Hills and Rocks, than perhaps any other in the Principality, and it is so steep on every side, that it is considered, even by the Shepherds, a Feat of great vigour, agility, and courage, to ascend this stupendous natural Pyramid; and there being two columnar Rocks on the very summit, about 8 Feet high, and nearly 4 from each other, and overhanging a most frightful Precipice, and the space on the top of each very confined, it is thought a proof of noble daring, to challenge each other to climb up, and step from one to the other; these stones, at a particular part of the Road from Ogwen Pool to Capel Curig, have the appearance of two men, and it is jocularly related by the Peasants, that a Gentleman once stood a considerable time expecting them either to move or come down. The Mountains in this part of Carnarvonshire, (observes Mr. Pennant) are of a stupendous height, mostly precipitous, the tops of many edged with pointed Rock; I have, from the depth below, says he, seen the Shepherds skipping from peak to peak, but the point of contact was so small, that from this distance, they seemed to my uplifted eyes, like beings of another Order, floating in the Air. And lastly Snowdon, will no doubt occupy one or two days more, in a most pleasing and agreeable manner.