Chapter XXII: The Barren Lands, or “arctic Prairie.” (2)

Mr. J. W. Tyrrell (“Through the Sub-Arctics of Canada”) states:—“Salmon of the very finest quality are found in abundance both in Hudson bay and strait. I have several times procured them from Eskimos and can testify as to their superior quality.” Mr. Tyrrell does not state whether any of these salmon were caught on the west side of the bay.

We find the following interesting paragraphs as to the fish along the Arctic coast in “Sport and Travel in Northern Canada” (Hanbury):—“On May 29, after travelling about ten miles, I obtained an observation for latitude which gave 68° 25′ north. Three miles more brought us to the east coast of Kent peninsula, or rather to a small inlet of the coast, where several Huskies were fishing with their copper fish-hooks through holes in the ice. In the evening they brought me seven of the fish they had caught, which proved to be codling, the same in appearance and size as those we have found around the coast of Great Britain. I was surprised to see these fish, for the Hudson bay Huskies had always denied the existence of any sort of cod in Hudson bay. The Arctic Husky name for these codling was u-wuk, and they were reported to be very plentiful along the coast at this time of year.”

According to Doctor Richardson:—“Trout of various kinds and of large size inhabit the rivers that fall into Arctic sea, and on the coast near the mouth of Coppermine river, a species closely resembling the sea-trout of England was abundant in the shallows.”

FISH IN THE DUBAWNT AND THE KAZAN.

Mr. J. B. Tyrrell in the report of his exploratory trips down Dubawnt and Kazan rivers in 1893 and 1894 states:—“Fish seemed to be everywhere abundant in the lakes and streams though very few were caught. The lake trout (_Cristivomer namaycush_) and whitefish (_Coregonus clupeiformis_) appeared to be the most abundant and valuable food fishes, the latter being especially abundant in Dubawnt lake. Pike (_Esox lucius_) and one or more species of suckers were also seen.

Mr. Tyrrell states in his evidence before the Senate committee of 1907 that as far north as Dubawnt lake (63° north latitude) the whitefish and trout were plentiful in all the streams. Mr. Tyrrell caught them in Dubawnt lake. Farther northwards he did not catch any. There are great quantities of fish. The fact is there are all the fish the lakes will hold—they are as full as the water can supply food for them.

While Mr. Tyrrell’s party was descending Dubawnt river in August, 1894, they made a big haul of trout and whitefish below Markham lake; according to Mr. J. B. Tyrrell (“Through the Sub-Arctics of Canada”):—“The whitefish ranged from six to ten pounds in weight; the trout went up to twenty-five pounds.”

In his paper before the British Association Mr. J. W. Tyrrell stated:—“Whitefish and lake trout are plentiful in the lakes and streams; but as yet very little is known about the character and distribution of the denizens of most of the water stretches.”

FISH PLENTIFUL IN THE THELON.

Mr. Hanbury in describing his exploration of the Ark-i-linik (Thelon and Hanbury rivers) states:—“Fish were plentiful all along the Ark-i-linik; in fact, I never saw such a grand river for fish. Trout, whitefish, and toolabies (very similar to whitefish) abound, and large numbers can be taken with nets of from three to four and one-half inch mesh. There are few rivers equal to the Ark-i-linik for food fishes.”

All travellers agree that there are large numbers of fish in the eastern arm of Great Slave lake and in the lakes between that sheet of water and the Thelon. Mr. J. W. Tyrrell in the report of his trip in 1900 states:—“The resources of Artillery lake and vicinity, outside of any mineral wealth it may possess, lie in its fisheries, its furs and meat supplies. In regard to the fisheries, I can testify that its deep, cold waters abound with the finest specimens of lake trout as well as whitefish, pike and carp. At one place in about fifteen minutes, with a single spoon hook, one of my men pulled out eighteen fine trout, some of which were brought to camp, strung on a pole and photographed by me. Some of these fish were from sixteen to twenty pounds in weight. In regard to the fish of Artillery lake, I was told

A MOST ASTONISHING STORY

by the Indian “Pierre Fort Smith” and his companion. They affirm that they have frequently seen fish of from twenty to thirty feet long in the water, and described them as being of black colour, with long slender horns or feelers. They say they have never killed one of them—being afraid of them—but that they are frequently seen in the deep waters when crossing the lake. When I smiled at their story with some expression of doubt, they became very indignant and with one accord stoutly declared every word of it to be true. I offered them ‘one hundred skins’ if they would capture or kill one of these fish for me, but they only said they could not do so; they were too big, and they were afraid of them.”

In the report of his patrol from Great Slave lake to Chesterfield inlet, Inspector Pelletier gives us the following notes on fish and game along his route:—“We saw no game along the lake (Great Slave lake) such as deer, bears, etc., no water fowls, partridges or ptarmigan. Fish, on the contrary, are very plentiful. Large lake trout weighing up to twenty-five pounds take well to the troll, but this trout is not a game fish, and is very coarse food. The smaller trout are better in every way. Whitefish is abundant, and of splendid quality. We saw no ‘Inconnus’, the season being too early.”

ARTILLERY LAKE TEEMS WITH TROUT.

Artillery lake teems with trout, some of large size, and at the foot of the rapids on “Kasba river trout are taken by the troll, some weighing eighteen and twenty pounds. There must be larger ones but we did not secure any.

“At the foot of every rapid on upper Hanbury river trout and grayling can be caught. Some trout are very large, over twenty-five pounds. The best eating are the small ones about two pounds, the flesh of which is very red. They do not rise to the fly, but catch the spoon very well. The ordinary maskinonge pattern proved the most successful.”

As to Thelon river, the Inspector states:—“Fish are abundant. Anywhere where nets are set whitefish of splendid quality are caught.” As to the long reach of lakes above Chesterfield inlet he says:—“Fish are plentiful in all the lakes. On Baker lake we saw some very large trout jumping near the mouth of a small river emptying into the lake.”

The Indians and the few white travellers who have been there report a plentiful supply of fine fish in all the large lakes north of Great Slave lake and about the headwaters of Backs river, which used to be known as Great Fish river on account of the large fish caught in its waters. Mr. Warburton Pike was at Aylmer lake in June 1890 and writes in his book (“The Barren Grounds of Northern Canada”):—“At the head of every bay a stream ran into the lake, and the open water at its mouth was always a sure find for trout; forty or fifty large fish were often caught in a day with a hook and line at these places, and, as we could always kill caribou, even the dogs were getting fat in this land of plenty.”

We have this testimony from Hanbury (“Sport and Travel in the Northland of Canada”) as to the fish life of the lakes still farther north and on the height of land dividing the Coppermine watershed from that of Great Bear lake:—“We all regretted leaving Teshi-er-pi or Dismal lake. It certainly did not appear ‘dismal’ to us, but quite the reverse. I do not remember ever having come across a lake where fish were so numerous. Large trout, some of which ran up to twenty-five pounds, could be seen swimming in the clear water as we paddled along. The tollabies we caught averaged nearer five pounds than four, and as before remarked, were most excellent eating. Arctic trout were numberless.”

BIBLIOGRAPHY.

The reader of the preceding pages will have observed, from the variety of publications from which quotations have been made, that the literature relating to the far northlands of Canada is considerable—quite extensive in fact. Below is a partial list of written authorities consulted in the preparation of this book. It does not pretend to be a complete bibliography of the country by any means, many publications which were carefully read through not being mentioned because they do not throw any direct light upon the natural resources of the region, being merely books of adventure, or publications relating wholly to those topographical features of the country which are clearly indicated in present-day maps. The following list includes works from which enquirers for additional knowledge of the country are likely to obtain serviceable information.

ADAM, G. MERCER.—“The Canadian Northwest, its History and its Troubles.”—Rose Publishing Co., Toronto, 1885.

AMI, H. H., D.Sc., F.G.S., F.R.S.C.—“Resources of the Country between Quebec and Winnipeg, along the line of the G.T.P. Ry.”—(Sessional paper 143), King’s Printer, Ottawa, 1903.

ANDERSON, JAMES.—“Extracts from Chief-Factor James Anderson’s Arctic Journal.”—Journ. Roy. Geog. Soc., Vol. XXVII, pp. 321-328, 1857.

ARMSTRONG, JOHN.—Report of the Preliminary Surveys for a Proposed Railway to Hudson bay, (Sessional paper No. 20 d., 1910). King’s Printer, Ottawa.

BACK, CAPTAIN GEORGE, R.N.—“Narrative of the Arctic Land Expedition to the mouth of the Great Fish River, and along the shores of the Arctic Ocean, in the years 1833, 1834, 1835,” by Captain Back, R. N., Commander of the Expedition. Zoological Appendix by John Richardson. London and Philadelphia, 1836.

BELL, JAMES MACINTOSH, M.A.—“Report on the Topography and Geology of Great Bear lake and of a chain of lakes and streams thence to Great Slave lake.” Part C., Annual Report, Vol. XII, Geological Survey of Canada, King’s Printer, Ottawa, 1901.

BELL, ROBERT, I.S.O., M.D., C.M., D.Sc., LL.D., F.R.S.—Reports in the Annual report of the Geological Survey of Canada particularly from 1877 to 1908. King’s Printer, Ottawa.

BELL, DR. ROBT., I.S.O., etc.—Special reports in Geol. Survey Reports 1877-78, 1882-84 and 1885.

BELL, DR. ROBT., I.S.O., etc.—Reports on Hudson bay and some of the lakes and rivers lying west of it. Report Progress Geological Survey of Canada, 1879-80, pp. 10-113-C. Queen’s Printer, Ottawa, 1881.

BELL, DR. ROBT., I.S.O., etc.—“The Geology of the Hudson’s Bay and Strait,” in the report of the Hudson’s Bay Expedition, 1885. Department of Marine, Ottawa.

BELL, DR. ROBERT, I.S.O., etc.—“Geology and Economic Minerals of Hudson’s Bay and Northern Canada,” (abstract) in Trans. Royal Soc. Can., vol. ii, sect. iv., p. 241, Ottawa.

BELL, DR. ROBERT, I.S.O., etc.—“Report on an Exploration of Portions of the Attawapiskat and Albany rivers, Lonely lake to James’ bay.” Part G., Annual Report Geol. Survey, 1886. Dawson Bros., Montreal, 1887.

BERNIER, CAPTAIN J. E.—“Report on the Dominion of Canada Government Expedition to the Arctic Islands and Hudson Strait on Board the D.G.S. ‘Arctic.’” Ottawa, Government Printing Bureau, 1910.

BOULTON, MAJOR C. A.—“Reminiscences of the Northwest Rebellions.” Grip Printing and Publishing Co., Toronto, 1886.

BROWN, HON. C.P.—“Report of the Select Committee of the Legislative Assembly of the Province of Manitoba appointed to Procure Evidence as to the Practicability of the Establishment of a System of Communication with the Province via Hudson Bay”. Printed by order of the Legislative Assembly. Winnipeg, 1884.

BRYMNER, DOUGLAS—“Reports on Canadian Archives for 1888 and 1890,” Notes E. and C., respectively. Queen’s Printer, Ottawa.

BUTLER, CAPTAIN W. F., F.R.G.S.—“The Great Lone Land; a Narrative of Travel and Adventure in the Northwest of America.” London, 1872.

CHAMBERS, CAPTAIN E. J.—“The Book of Canada.” Montreal and Toronto, 1905.

CHAMBERS, CAPTAIN E. J.—“The Royal Northwest Mounted Police. (A Corps History)” The Mortimer Press, Montreal and Ottawa, 1906.

CHAMBERS, CAPTAIN E. J.—“Canada’s Fertile Northland.” Containing the evidence heard before the Select Committee of the Senate of Canada of 1906-07 and the report based thereon. Ottawa, Government Printing Bureau. 1907. Several later editions. The last under the title “The New Northwest.”

CHAMBERS, CAPTAIN E. J.—“The Great Mackenzie Basin.” A Summary of the Reports of the Schultz Committees of the Senate of Canada (1887-88) and of the evidence heard before said Committees.” Ottawa, Government Printing Bureau, 1908.

COUES, ELLIOTT.—“New Light on the Early History of the Greater Northwest. The Manuscript Journals of Alexander Henry, Fur Trader of the Northwest Company and of David Thompson, Official Geographer and Explorer of the same Company, 1799-1814,” in three volumes. Francis P. Harper, New York, 1897.

CREAN, FRANK J. P., C.E., F.R.G.S.—“The New Northwest. Report of Exploration.” Government Printing Bureau, Ottawa, 1908. Second edition, 1909.

DAWSON, G. M., D.S., F.G.S., F.R.S.C., etc.—“Notes to accompany a Geological Map of the Northern portion of the Dominion of Canada, East of the Rocky Mountains,” Queen’s Printer, Ottawa, 1887.

DAWSON, G. M., F.G.S., etc.—Numerous reports in the annual reports of the Geological Survey of Canada. King’s Printer, Ottawa.

DAWSON, G. M., D.S., F.G.S., etc.—“On some of the larger unexplored regions of Canada.” Paper contributed to the Ottawa Field Naturalists’ Club.

DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR—“Annual Reports,” more particularly 1884, 1888, 1889, 1892 (Sessional paper No. 13, Vol. VII,) 1900-01 (Sessional paper No. 25, Part III, Appendix 26 to Surveyor General’s report), 1903 (Summary of the Reports on Peace river). King’s Printer, Government Printing Bureau, Ottawa.

DICKSON, J. R., B.S.A., M.S.F.—“Report on Timber Conditions, etc., along the proposed route of the Hudson Bay Railway.” Forestry Branch—Bulletin No. 17. Government Printing Bureau, Ottawa, 1911.

DOBBS, ARTHUR—“Account of the Situation, Climate and Trade of the Countries adjoining to Hudson’s Bay, etc.” London, 1744.

DODDS, JAMES—“The Hudson’s Bay Company, its Position and Prospects.” London, 1866.

DOWLING, D. B., B. Ap. Sc.—“Report on the Country in the vicinity of Red Lake and Part of the Basin of Berens River, Keewatin.” Part F., Annual Report (Vol. VII), Geological Survey of Canada. Queen’s Printer, Ottawa, 1896.

DOWLING, D. B., B. Ap. Sc.—“Report on an Exploration of Ekwan river, Sutton Mill lakes and part of the West Coast of James’ Bay.” (Annual Report Geol. Sur. of Canada, 1901, Part F., Vol. XIV, New Series). King’s Printer, Ottawa.

DOWLING, D. B.—“Report on the Geology of the West Shore and Islands of Lake Winnipeg.” (Geol. Survey report for 1898, Vol. XI). Government Printing Bureau, Ottawa, 1901.

DOWLING, D. B.—“Report on the East Shore of Lake Winnipeg and Adjacent Parts of Manitoba and Keewatin. From notes and Surveys by J. B. Tyrrell.” (Geol. Survey report for 1898, Vol. XI). Government Printing Bureau, Ottawa, 1901.

DOWLING, D. B.—“Report on Geological Explorations in Athabaska, Saskatchewan and Keewatin Districts.” Part F. F., Annual Report (Vol. XIII), Geological Survey of Canada, King’s Printer, Ottawa, 1902.

DOWLING, D. B.—“Report on an Exploration of Ekwan River and Sutton Mill Lakes and Part of the West Coast of James’ bay.” Part F., Annual Report (Vol. XIV), Geological Survey of Canada, King’s Printer, Ottawa, 1904.

FRANKLIN, CAPTAIN JOHN, R.N., F.R.S.—“Narrative of a Journey on the shores of the Polar Sea, in the years 1819-20-21 and -22.” Zoological Appendix; Mammals and Birds, by Joseph Sabine; Notice of the fishes, Botanical Appendix, by John Richardson. London, 1823.

FRANKLIN, CAPTAIN JOHN, R.N., F.R.S., etc.—“Narrative of a Second Expedition to the Shores of the Polar Sea in the years 1825, 1826 and 1827.” London, 1828.

FISHER, HON. SYDNEY—“Some Economic Aspects of Agriculture in Canada.” Address before the Canadian Club, Ottawa, Jan. 22, 1910.

GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA—“Annual Reports,” more particularly the following: 1872, 1878, 1879, 1880, 1884, 1886 (Part R), 1888 (Vol. XI, part A), 1890-91 (Vol. V., part D), 1894 (Vol. VII, part A), 1896 (Vol. IX, part F), 1897 (Vol. X, part A), 1900 (Vol. XIII), 1901 (Vol. VIII, part D). King’s Printer, Government Printing Bureau, Ottawa.

GRANT, GEORGE M.—“Ocean to Ocean, Sandford Fleming’s Expedition through Canada in 1872. Being a diary kept during a journey from the Atlantic to the Pacific with the Expedition of the Engineer-in-Chief of the Canadian Pacific and Intercolonial Railways.” London, 1877, and Belford Bros., Toronto.

HANBURY, DAVID T.—“Sport and Travel in the Northland of Canada.” New York, The Macmillan Company. London, Edward Arnold. 1904.

HARMON, DANIEL WILLIAMS—“A Journal of voyage and travel in the Interior of North America. Between the 47th and 58th Degrees of N. Lat. extending from Montreal nearly to the Pacific, a distance of about 5,000 miles. Including an account of the principal occurrences during a residence of nineteen years in different parts of the country.” By Daniel Williams Harmon, a partner in the Northwest Company. With introduction and Map. Andover, 1820.

HARRISON, ALFRED H.—“In Search of a Polar Continent.” London, 1908.

HEARNE, SAMUEL—“A Journey from Prince of Wales Fort in Hudson’s Bay to the Northern Ocean. Undertaken by Order of the Hudson’s Bay Company for the discovery of Copper Mines, a North West Passage, etc., in the years of 1769, 1770, 1771 and 1772.” London, 1795. Dublin, 1796. London, 1807.

HECTOR, JAMES, M.D.—“Physical Features of the Central part of British North America,” in Edinburgh “New Philosophical Journal,” 1866.

HEER, PROF. O.—“On the Miocene Plants discovered on the Mackenzie River,” Proc. Royal Soc., London, Vol. XXX, 1880.

HENRY, ALEXANDER—“Travels and Adventures in Canada and the Indian Territories.” New York, 1809.

HIND, HENRY YOULE, M.A., F.R.G.S.—(Professor of Chemistry and Geology in the University of Trinity College, Toronto, in charge of the Assiniboine and Saskatchewan Expedition.)—“Narrative of the Canadian Red River Exploring Expedition of 1857, and of the Assiniboine and Saskatchewan exploring Expedition of 1857.” In two Volumes. London, 1860.

HOOPER, W. H.—“Ten Months among the Tents of the Tuski, with incidents of an Arctic Boat Expedition in search of Sir John Franklin as far as the Mackenzie river, and Cape Bathurst.” London, 1853.

HORETZKY, CHARLES—“Canada on the Pacific.” Montreal, 1874.

ISBISTER, A. K.—“Some Account of Peel River, North America.” Journ. Royal Geol. Soc., London, Vol. XV. 1845.

ISBISTER, A. K.—“On the Geology of the Hudson’s Bay Territories and of Portions of the Arctic and Northwest Regions of America”, Quart. Journ. Geol. Soc., Vol. XI in Am. Journ. Sci. and Arts. Second series, col. XXI, 1856.

LAUT, AGNES C.—“The End of the Free Land.” Canadian Collier’s, Jan. 14, 1911.

LOW, A. P., B.Sc., F.R.G.S.—“Preliminary Report on an Exploration of Country between Lake Winnipeg and Hudson Bay.” Part F., Annual Report Geol. Survey, 1886. Dawson Brothers, Montreal, 1887.

LOW, A. P., B.Sc., F.R.G.S.—“The Cruise of the Neptune,” Dominion Government Expedition to Hudson bay and the Arctic Islands on Board the D.G.S. “Neptune,” 1903-1904. Ottawa, Government Printing Bureau, 1906.

MACBETH, REV. R. G., M.A.—“The Making of the Canadian West.” Wm. Briggs, Toronto, 1905.

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MACKENZIE, ALEXANDER.—“Voyages from Montreal, on the River St. Lawrence, through the Continent of North America, to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans; in the years 1789 and 1793. With a preliminary account of the rise, progress and present state of the Fur Trade of that country.” London, 1801.

MACOUN, PROF. JOHN, M.A.—“Report of Professor Macoun, Botanist to the Expedition,” addressed to Alfred R. C. Selwyn. (Accompanying a report by Selwyn entitled “Report on Exploration in British Columbia”). Report Progress Geological Survey of Canada, 1875-76, pp. 110-232. Montreal, 1877.

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MORGAN, HENRY J.—“Sketches of Celebrated Canadians and Persons connected with Canada from the Earliest Period in the History of the Province Down to the Present Time.” Hunter, Rose & Co., London, 1862.

MULVANEY, DR. CHARLES P.—“The History of the Northwest Rebellion of 1885.” A. H. Hovey & Co., Toronto, 1886.

NATURAL HISTORY SOCIETY OF MONTREAL.—“Canadian Record of Science.” Various volumes, particularly that of 1890, (Vol. IV). Montreal, 1891.

OGILVIE, WILLIAM, D.L.S.—“Exploratory Survey of Part of the Lewes, Tat-On-Duc, Porcupine, Bell, Trout, Peel, and Mackenzie rivers, 1887-1888.” Report of the Department of the Interior, 1890. Sessional Papers, Vol. 11, 4th session of the 6th parliament. Queen’s Printer, Ottawa.

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WILSON, ALFRED W. G.—“Report on a Traverse through the Southern Part of the Northwest Territories from Lac Seul to Cat Lake in 1902.” Geol. Survey Report No. 1006. Government Printing Bureau, Ottawa, 1910.

YOUNG, R. E., D.L.S.—“Evidence before the Select Standing Committee of Forests, Waterways and Water Powers of the House of Commons.” Parliamentary Paper. Government Printing Bureau, Ottawa, 1909.

YOUNG, R. E., D.L.S.—“Evidence on ‘Canada’s Fertile Northland’ before the Select Standing Committee of the House of Commons on Agriculture and Colonization.” Parliamentary Paper. Government Printing Bureau, Ottawa, 1909.

YOUNG, R. E., D.L.S—“The New North West.” Pamphlet, 1910.

INDEX

Agnooski and Winisk rivers, description of country between, 55

Agricultural country, rich, north of lake Winnipeg, 44-45

Agricultural Experiments, early, and their success, 30

Agricultural land, good, around head of lake Winnipeg, 58

Agricultural possibilities of the country south of Reed and Wuskwatim
lakes, 53
of the country from Prince Albert to Fort Pitt, 97-98
at Ile à la Crosse, 98
at Lac la Ronge, 100-102
around Deer lake, 106
at Methye lake, 108-109
in Green lake district, 112-113
at Chipewyan, 133
at Baptiste lake, 135
at Calling river, 136
at McMurray, 136
at Chipewyan, 137
around Cowpar lake, 137-138
in country west of Methye and Buffalo lakes and south of Clearwater
river, 137-138
around Heart lake, 138
around Winefred lake, 138
in Peace river country, 144
at Fort Vermilion, 147-148
at Red River fort, 148
at Fort St. John, 150
at Dunvegan, 150-154
at Grand Prairie, 155-156
at Fort Vermilion, 157, 163-164
around Edmonton, 166-167
of Mackenzie river region, 208, 219

Alluvium on banks of Great Slave lake, 283

Alsop, Enoch, testimony of, 33

Anderson river, basin of, 277
fairly well wooded, 277

Animals, fur-bearing, in Keewatin area, 88
about Winisk and Attawapiskat rivers, 91
in the area south of Cross lake, 92
at Churchill, 93
of Clearwater country, 127
in the far northwest, 127-128
in the country between Churchill river and lake Athabaska, 128-129

Arable Land of Mackenzie river region, 208

Arctic grayling in Peace region, 296

Armstrong, Mr. John, report of, on the preliminary survey of 1908 and 1909
for the proposed railway to Hudson Bay, 60
on the preliminary surveys for the Hudson Bay railway, 87

Artillery lake, 309

Aspen:—(‘Trembling-leaved Poplar’), 65

Asphalt on Great Slave lake, 283

Athabaska lake, 116
timber on the shores of, 123
minerals near lake, 124
evidence of Archbishop Clut before the Senate Committee of 1888 as to
minerals in country northwest of, 125-126

Athabaska river and tributaries, 131-132
basin, Sir John Franklin’s report of the agricultural possibilities of,
133
valley, climate conditions in various parts of, 141-142
water power on, 177
iron found on, 181
general description, 245
summers very hot on, 245
timber, 261
water power along river, 262
country has fine balsam poplar, 268
petroleum, 282
moose, 290
woodland caribou, 291
fish, 299

Attawapiskat river, 66-67

Attawapiskat and Winisk rivers, basins of the, 70-71

Attawapiskat and Winisk rivers, fish of, 91

Aylmer lake, 311

Back, Captain, explorations of, 13, 14
impression of the view from the heights above the Clearwater at Methye
portage, 118
report on timber of Reindeer lake, 267

Back’s grayling in the tributaries of Peace river in Rocky mountains, 204

“Balsam Fir” also called “Single Spruce” and “Silver Pine”, 65

Baptiste lake, agricultural possibilities of, 135

Barley and oats grown at Chipewyan settlement on Buffalo river, 108

Barren Lands, the, area comprised in, 29
topography, soil, climate, flora, 303
tree growth and timber resources, 317

Battle river, gold found in the bars above the mouth of, 180

Bears, white, in the northern part of Hudson bay and black in southern
part, 89

Bear and Moose along Lockhart river, 291

Bear river, birch on, 277
gypsum, 282

Bear lake settlement, 171

Beaver plentiful along Clearwater valley, 130

Beech, Mr. William, description of, of the country around Hudson bay and
at Churchill, 63
of the timber resources of Hudson bay region, 79-80
of the water power available in Hudson bay region, 80
of fish and animals at Churchill, 93-94

Bell, Doctor Robert, F.G.S., F.R.S.C., exploratory trips of, 17, 18
report of his exploratory trip from lake Winnipeg to Hudson bay in 1878,
37, 38
testimony before the Senate Committee of 1887, 38
report of his explorations in the valleys of Nelson and Churchill rivers
in 1879, 65-66
1886 report, 66
before Senate Committee of 1887, 82
description of the rocks of the eastern part of lake St. Joseph, 82
1886 report as to fish, animals and game in Keewatin area, 88
evidence before the Senate Committee of 1887 as to fish, animals and
game in Keewatin area, 88-89
evidence before the Senate Committee of 1887 as to agriculture in
Athabaska district, 134-135
opinion of the tar sands in Athabaska river in his paper before the
American Institute of Engineers, Toronto, in 1907, 187

Bell, James Macintosh, F.R.G.S., exploratory trips of, 21
description of country along Martin river, 266
description of Great Bear river, 271
fine timber at Keith bay, 275

Birch, 122
canoe birch at Fort Rae, 266
grown within Arctic circle, 274
on Bear river, 277

Bituminous Spring on Cree river, 126

Bitumen from Fort Providence to Chipewyan, 285

Black bay on lake Athabaska, galena found at, 181

Bompas, the Right Reverend, opinion of, of the soil in Peace river
country, 145-146

Boulder river, timber along, 66

Bredin, W. F., Esq., evidence of, before the Senate Committee of 1907, 104
evidence before the Senate Committee of 1907 as to tar sands on Buffalo
lake, 126
as to agriculture in Athabaska district, 137
as to agriculture in Peace river country, 165-167
as to the natural gas along Athabaska river, 193

Brick, Reverend J. Gough, evidence of, before the Senate Committee, as to
agriculture and climate in Peace river country, 161-162

British North America Act, 1

Brock, Mr. R. W., opinion of, of petroleum and natural gas in northern
Alberta, 194
of coal deposits, 286

Browne, Alexander, evidence of, on the mineral resources of the country
around Hudson bay, 81

Buffalo lake tar sands, 126

Burntwood river, timber along, 72

Button, Captain Thomas, 7

Button bay, timber on, 76

Calling river, agricultural possibilities on, 136

Canoe lake, good gardens at, 108

Caribou in country between Churchill and Owl river, 93
south of Athabaska, 291
between Fort Rae and Great Bear lake, 291
between Athabaska lake and Churchill river, 291
west of the Mackenzie, 292
pass Rampart House semi-annually, 293
of the Barren Lands, 292, 343
value of, 349
an experiment by Dr. Grenfell, 350

Cereals in Mackenzie river region, 221

Champions of the north, 5, 6

Chesterfield inlet, water routes via, 307
spring at, 310

“Chinooks” at Arctic circle, 224

Chipewyan settlement, 108
advent of spring at, 133
agricultural possibilities at, 133, 137
timber in the vicinity of, 175

Christie, Hon. William, evidence of, before the Senate Committee of 1888
as to the agricultural possibilities of the country from Prince Albert to
Fort Pitt, 97, 98
as to the agricultural possibilities of Peace river country, 157
as to wood buffalo in northern Alberta, 195, 196

Churchill and Owl rivers, timber in the country between, 76, 77

Churchill, fur-bearing animals near, 93
fish, 93, 94

Churchill river, 99
country north of, 115, 116
tributaries, 116
waterpower, 120
timber along the banks, 120, 122
timber north of, 123

Churchill and Clearwater rivers, resources of the region south of, 105
timber north of, 122, 123

Clay Belt, the, 61

Clay, Corporal S. G., report of, of his patrol through Grande prairie
country in 1911, 207

Clearwater lake and Pas, timber in the country between, 75, 76
Mr. McLaggan’s description of the waters between, 92

Clearwater river, country good along, 104, 105
river and valley as described by Mr. F. J. P. Crean, 109, 110

Clearwater valley from Methye portage, description of the height of land
overlooking, 117, 118
described by Bishop Tache, 118
water power, 121
sulphur springs on, 125, 126
animals, 127
beaver plentiful along, 130
iron found on, 181

Climate of the country lying south of Reed and Wuskwatim lakes, 54
of district explored by Mr. Crean in 1908, 111
in various parts of Athabaska valley, 141, 142
in Peace river country, 149
at Dunvegan, 151, 152
at Fort Vermilion, 165
in Peace river country, described by Mr. Warburton Pike, in his book,
173, 174
of Peace river country exceptionally healthy, 174

Clut, Archbishop, evidence of, before the Senate Committee of 1888 as to
minerals in country northeast of lake Athabaska, 125, 126
as to gold in Peace and Liard rivers, 181
as to timber, 265, 269
on feathered game, 294

Coal found south of Saskatchewan and Churchill rivers, 124
on Saskatchewan river, 124
along either side of Cree river, 126
at Lac la Ronge, 126
at McKay, 182
along Mackenzie river, 281
two hundred square miles, 286

Cobalt found on west shore of Reindeer lake, 125

Cold Springs settlement, 171

Conroy, Mr. H. A., evidence of, before the Senate Committee of 1907 as to
agricultural possibilities in Athabaska district, 136, 137
as to the climate conditions in Athabaska-Peace river country, 142
as to the agricultural resources of Peace river country, 168, 169
as to timber in Athabaska country, 176
his report to the Superintendent of Forestry, January 17, 1910, as to
timber in Athabaska country, 176

Cook, Richard S., Esq., evidence of, before the Senate Committee of 1907,
102, 104
as to mineral in region north of the Saskatchewan, 126
as to the fish in country north of the Saskatchewan, 129

Copper around File lake, 85
found at Wekusko lake, 86
at the junction of Nahanni and Liard rivers, 282
in Barren Lands, 325
deposits rival those around lake Superior, 328

Cowpar lake, agricultural possibilities around, 137, 138

Crean, Frank, J. P., C.E., explorations of, 25, 27
natural resources of district south of Churchill and Clearwater rivers,
105, 115
description of Clearwater river and valley, 109, 110
report on water powers, 120, 121
reports on timber areas, 120, 122
as to minerals in country north of the Saskatchewan, 126
as to fish and game in country north of the Saskatchewan, 129, 130
as to agriculture in the country west of Methye and Buffalo lakes and
south of Clearwater river, 137, 138
as to the tar sands on Athabaska river, 187, 188
fish and game in district explored by him in 1909, 204, 205

Cree lake, 116

Cree river, timber on the shores of, 123
bituminous springs on, 126
coal along either side of, 126
minerals reported by Chief Factor A. McDonald on, 126

Cross lake and Pas, timber of the district between, 78, 79

Dawson-Hind expeditions, 2

Dawson, Doctor G. M., exploration of, 17
report of 1879-80 as to agriculture in Peace river country, 157-161
evidence before the Senate Committee of 1888 as to timber in Peace river
country, 177-179
description of petroleum along the Athabaska in his Summary Report for
1894, 189
reports spruce as far north as Bear lake river, 271
on Back’s grayling, 295

Dease, Peter Warren and Thomas Simpson, Exploration of, 14

Dease river, 278

Deer lake, timber around, 68
agricultural possibilities good, 106

Deer at Fort Resolution, 293-294

Dickson, J. R., B.S.A., M.S.F., inspection by, in 1910, of the timber
along the line of the proposed Hudson Bay railway from Pas to Split lake,
60-61
report as to climate and soil conditions of the area between Pas and
Split lake, 62-63
report on the timber of the district between Pas and Cross lake,
explored by him in 1910, 78-79
report of the mineral deposits of the area explored by him south of
Cross lake, 86
report of the area south of Cross lake as to fish, animals, and game, 92

Distances estimated on the patrol of Inspector E. A. Pelletier of the
Royal Northwest Mounted Police, 24

Dowling, Mr. D. B., explorations of, in 1899, 21
report of his explorations in 1893, 46-47
report of his explorations in 1899, 69
report of 1901 on Ekwan district, 69-70
report of his 1893 explorations, 70
explorations of Severn district in 1901, 83-84
report in 1901 of the game, animals and fish in Ekwan district, 90-91
report on the timber in the country around Green and Ile à la Crosse
lakes and Lac la Ronge, 119-120

Dubawnt lake, 307

Dunvegan, agricultural possibilities at, 150-154

Economic minerals, report of Mr. Wm. Ogilvie on, 284

Edmonton, agricultural possibilities around, 166-167

Ekwan district, timber in, 69
game, animals and fish, 90-91

Ells, R. W., LL.D., F.R.S.C., opinion of, on the tar sands of Athabaska
river as stated in the Geological Survey report, 186-187

Explorations, Dawson-Hind, 2

Explorations of Doctor John Richardson and Doctor Rae, 15

Explorations of Doctor Selwyn, Director of the Geological Survey, and
Professor John Macoun, 17

Explorations of Doctor G. M. Dawson, 17

Explorations of Captain Back, 13, 14

Explorations of Thomas Simpson and Peter Warren Dease, 14

Explorations of Arctic Regions by Sir John Franklin, 14

Explorations conducted by the Canadian Government, 16

Explorations of Mr. A. P. Low of the Geological Survey, 18

Explorations of Mr. R. G. McConnell, B.A., 18, 19

Explorations of Doctor Bell, F.G.S., F.R.S.C., 17, 18

Explorations of Mr. William Ogilvie, D.L.S., in 1884 and 1888, 18

Explorations of Great Slave lake district by Mr. Warburton Pike, 19

Explorations of Mr. J. Burr Tyrrell, 19, 20

Explorations of Mr. D. B. Dowling of the Geological Survey in 1899, 21

Explorations of Mr. David T. Hanbury, 21, 22

Explorations of the country between Great Slave lake and Chesterfield
inlet on Hudson bay, by J. W. Tyrrell, C.E., 21

Explorations of James Macintosh Bell, F.R.G.S. 21

Explorations of Mr. Edward A. Preble of the United States Biological
Survey, 22

Explorations of Mr. William McInnes, 23

Explorations of W. Thibaudeau, C.E., in Churchill district, 23

Explorations of Frank J. P. Crean, C.E., of the Railway Lands Branch of
the Department of the Interior, 25, 26, 27

Explorations of Mr. J. W. McLaggan of Strathcona, Alberta, in 1907, 58, 59

Explorations of W. Thibaudeau, C.E., in 1906, of the country between
Churchill and Owl rivers, 76, 77

Explorations of Mr. Wm. McInnes in 1906 of the basins of Reed and Wekusko
lakes and Grass river, 84, 85

Explorations for minerals of the district north of Lac Seul by Mr. A. W.
G. Wilson, 85, 86

European districts compared with northwestern Canada, 241

Evidence before the Parliamentary Committee of 1749, 30, 31

Evidence of Doctor Bell before the Senate Committee of 1887, 67

Evidence of Mr. Low before the Senate Committee of 1907, 68

Evidence of Mr. McInnes before the Senate Committee of 1907, 73

Evidence of Mr. Owen O’Sullivan before the Senate Committee of 1906, 74

Evidence contained in the report of the British parliamentary
investigation of 1749, 81

Evidence of Mr. Wm. McInnes before the Senate Committee of 1907, 85

Evidence of Doctor Bell before the Senate Committee of 1887, as to fish,
animals and game in Keewatin area, 88, 89

Evidence of Mr. A. P. Low before the Senate Committee of 1907 as to fish
in inland waters of Keewatin, 89, 90

Evidence of Mr. McInnes before the Senate Committee of 1907, as to fish in
region lying west of Hudson bay, 91, 92

Evidence of Richard King, M.D., before the British Parliamentary Committee
of 1857, as to the agricultural possibilities of northern Saskatchewan,
96, 97

Evidence of Hon. William Christie before the Senate Committee of 1888 as
to the country from Prince Albert to Fort Pitt, 97, 98

Evidence of the Venerable Archdeacon J. McKay, Church of England
Missionary of the Canadian West, before the Senate Committee of 1907, 99,
100

Evidence of W. F. Bredin, Esq., member of the Legislative Assembly of
Alberta for the Division of Athabaska, before the Senate Committee of
1907, 104

Evidence of the Venerable Archdeacon McKay, before the Senate Committee of
1907, as to the timber in the country around Lac la Ronge, 119

Evidence of Mr. Tyrrell, before the Senate Committee of 1907, as to the
forests of the country north of the Churchill, 123

Evidence of Mr. J. B. Tyrrell, before the Senate Committee of 1907, as to
minerals along Saskatchewan river, 124

Evidence of Archbishop Clut, before the Senate Committee of 1888, as to
minerals in country northeast of lake Athabaska, 125, 126

Evidence of Mayor Cook, of Prince Albert, before the Senate Committee of
1907, as to minerals in the region north of the Saskatchewan, 126

Evidence of Mr. Alfred von Hamerstein, before the Senate Committee of
1907, as to medicinal springs on Clearwater river, 126

Evidence of W. F. Bredin, M.L.A., before the Senate Committee of 1907, as
to tar sands of Buffalo lake, 126

Evidence of Mr. H. J. Moberly, chief trader of Hudson’s Bay Company at
Rapid river, Cumberland district, before the Senate Committee of 1887,
127, 128

Evidence of Mayor Cook, of Prince Albert, before the Senate Committee of
1790, as to the fish in country north of the Saskatchewan, 129

Evidence of Sir John Richardson, before the British Parliamentary Select
Committee of 1857, as to the capabilities of the country traversed by him,
for the purpose of settlement and colonisation, 133

Evidence of Doctor Robert Bell, before the Senate Committee of 1887, as to
agriculture in Athabaska district, 134, 135

Evidence of Mr. Alfred von Hamerstein, before the Select Committee of the
Senate of Canada in 1907, as to the agricultural resources of Athabaska
district, 135, 136

Evidence of Mr. Elihu Stewart, before the Senate Committee of 1907, as to
agriculture in Athabaska district, 136

Evidence of Mr. H. A. Conroy of the Indian Department, before the Senate
Committee of 1907, as to agriculture in Athabaska district, 136, 137

Evidence of Mr. J. B. Tyrrell, before the Senate Committee of 1907, as to
the country immediately north of lake Athabaska, 137

Evidence of W. F. Bredin, M.L.A., before the Senate Committee of 1907, as
to agriculture in Athabaska district, 137

Evidence of Mr. H. A. Conroy, before the Senate Committee of 1907, as to
the climatic conditions in Athabaska-Peace river country, 142

Evidence of Professor Macoun, before the Senate Committee of 1888, as to
the character of Peace river country, 147-149

Evidence of Mr. McConnell, before the Senate Committee of 1907 as to
agriculture in Peace river country, 155-156

Evidence of Hon. William Christie, before the Senate Committee of 1888, as
to the agricultural possibilities of Peace river country, 157

Evidence of Reverend J. Cough Brick, before the Senate Committee of 1888,
as to agriculture and climate in Peace river country, 161, 162

Evidence of Mr. Frank Oliver, before the Senate Committee of 1888, as to
agriculture in Peace river country, 162

Evidence of Fred Lawrence, F.R.G.S., Justice of the Peace, of Fort
Vermilion, before the Senate Committee of 1907, as to agriculture and
climate in Peace river country, 162, 165

Evidence of Mr. W. F. Bredin, before the Senate Committee of 1907, as to
agriculture in Peace river country, 165-167

Evidence of Mr. Elihu Stewart of Ottawa, before the Senate Committee of
1907, as to agriculture in Peace river country, 167, 168

Evidence of Mr. Henry A. Conroy, before the Senate Committee, as to the
agricultural resources of Peace river country, 168, 169

Evidence of Mr. Charles Mair as to the agricultural resources of Peace
river country, 170

Evidence of Mr. Charles Mair in his book “Through the Mackenzie Basin”, as
to the climate of Peace river country, 174

Evidence of Professor Macoun, Botanist to the Geological Survey, before
the Senate Committee of 1888, as to timber in Athabaska country, 175

Evidence of Mr. Alfred von Hamerstein, before the Senate Committee of
1907, as to timber in Athabaska country, 175

Evidence of Mr. H. A. Conroy of the Indian Department, before the Senate
Committee of 1907, as to timber in Athabaska country, 176

Evidence of Doctor G. M. Dawson, before the Senate Committee of 1888, as
to timber in Peace river country, 177-179

Evidence of Mr. Fred S. Lawrence, before the Senate Committee of 1907, as
to timber in Peace river country, 179

Evidence of Mr. Alfred von Hamerstein, before the Senate Committee of
1907, as to gold in northern Alberta, 180, 181

Evidence of Bishop Clut, before the Senate Committee of 1888, as to gold
in Peace and Liard rivers, 181

Evidence of Mr. Alfred von Hamerstein, before the Senate Committee of
1907, as to iron and coal in northern Alberta, 182

Evidence of Mr. von Hamerstein, before the Senate Committee of 1907, as to
minerals in northern Alberta, 183-186

Evidence of Mr. J. B. Tyrrell, before the Senate Committee of 1907, as to
the tar sands on Athabaska river, 186

Evidence of Mr. von Hamerstein, before the Senate Committee of 1907, as to
petroleum in country from Athabaska river to Peace river, 192

Evidence of W. F. Bredin, M.L.A., before the Senate Committee of 1907, as
to the natural gas along Athabaska river, 193

Evidence of Mr. von Hamerstein, before the Senate Committee of 1907, as to
natural gas in northern Alberta, 193

Evidence of Hon. Wm. Christie, before the Senate Committee of 1888, as to
wood buffalo in northern Alberta, 195, 196

Evidence of Mr. H. A. Conroy of the Indian Department, before the Senate
Committee of 1907, as to wood buffalo in northern Alberta, 202, 203

Evidence of Mr. H. B. Moberly, before the Senate Committee of 1887, as to
game and fish in the north, 203, 204

Evidence of Professor John Macoun, before the Senate Committee of 1888, as
to fish in the north, 204

Evidence of Mr. McConnell before the Senate Committee of 1907, 268

Evidence of Bishop Clut before Senate Committee of 1888, 269

Evidence of Mr. von Hamerstein, before the Senate Committee of 1907, 286

Evidence of Ex-Judge MacLeod, before the Senate Committee of 1888, 291

Evidence of Mr. W. F. Bredin, before the Senate Committee of 1907, 299

Extracts from Mr. Robson’s book “An Account of Six Years’ Residence in
Hudson’s Bay”, published in 1752, 34, 35, 36

Extract from Mr. Ed. Umfreville’s volume “Eleven Years in the Service of
the Hudson’s Bay Company and Four Years in the Canada Fur Trade”,
published in 1790, 36

Extract from the writings of the Reverend John Semmens, 36, 37

Extract from Mr. J. A. J. McKenna’s report on the Hudson bay route, 37

Extract from Doctor Robert Bell’s report of his exploratory trip in 1886
of the country in lake St. Joseph section, 38

Extract from the Annual Report, Department of the Interior, 1885; what Mr.
Fawcett says of his descent of the Wenassago to Lac Seul, 38, 39

Extract from Mr. John Armstrong’s report of the preliminary survey in
1908-9 for the proposed railway to Hudson bay, 60

Extracts from the report of the engineer in charge of the boring
operations at Pelican river, Mr. A. W. Fraser, 190-192

Fathers of Confederation, the, 1

Favourable lake, 39
vegetation around, 67
sturgeon, 90

“Fertile Belt”, the, 1

Fir trees (splendid) near Great Slave lake, and in the country east to
Slave river, 265

Fish in Sturgeon lake, 88
in Keewatin area, 88
in lake St. Joseph, 88
in Hudson bay, 89
in James bay, 89
and game in region explored by Mr. J. B. Tyrrell in 1896, 90
in Winisk and Attawapiskat rivers, 91
in region lying west of Hudson bay, 91-92
in the area south of Cross lake, 92
in the waters between Pas and Clearwater lake, 92
between Churchill and Pas, 92-93
staple food of inhabitants of country north of the Saskatchewan, 127
in the lakes and streams in the country between Churchill river and lake
Athabaska, 129
in Torch river, 129
in Saskatchewan river, 129
in Reindeer lake, 129
in Methye lake, 129
in the north in general, 203-204
in Big Buffalo river, 205
and game of Mackenzie region, 288
of the Mackenzie country, 295
in Athabaska river and Great Slave lake, 297
of Mackenzie river, reported on by Mr. Wm. Ogilvie, 300
in the “Barren Lands”, 357
the arctic salmon, 358
in the Dubawnt and the Kazan, 359
in the Thelon, 360

Flour manufactured at Fort Vermilion, 169-170

Footprint lake, 51, 52

Fort Enterprise, description of country surrounding, 267

Fort Franklin, 13
trees a hundred and thirty years old, 275
country is well wooded, 276

Fort Good Hope, 217
fine tamarack, 268
fine jackpine according to Mr. McConnell’s report of 1888, 271
tar springs reported by Mr. McConnell, 282

Fort Liard, 221, 226, 233, 241

Fort Norman, 215, 238
fine tamarack, 268
fine spruce, 270
soil, 283

Fort Providence, bitumen near, 285

Fort Nelson is all prairie land, 269

Fort Rae and surrounding country, canoe birch at, 266

Fort Resolution, 240
deer, 293, 294

Fort St. John, agriculture at, 150

Fort Simpson, 220
in 1904, the sap was running freely from April 20 to May 1, 266
to Great Slave lake is all forest according to Mr. Ogilvie’s report, 267
fine tamarack, 268
moose, 290

Fort Smith, salmon up Mackenzie to, 299

Fort Vermilion, agriculture at, 147-148, 157, 163-164
climate at, 165
flour manufactured, 169-170

Fort Wrigley, 239

Foxe, Captain Luke, 7

Franklin, Sir John, 12
exploration of Arctic regions, 14
impression of the view from the heights above the Clearwater at Methye
portage, 118
report of the agricultural possibilities of Athabaska basin, 133
in his journal of August 19, 1820, on Fort Enterprise, 267
reports on Yellowknife river, description of soil and timber, 267

Franklin river, granite along, 283

Galena found at Black bay on lake Athabaska, 181

Game in Keewatin area, 88
plentiful near forks of the Muhigan, 90
between Churchill and Pas, 92, 93
plentiful in Meadow lake district, 130
in the far north, 203, 204
at Fort Confidence, 293
feathered, on Mackenzie, Athabaska, Peace, Salt and Great Slave lake
rivers, 294
and fur-bearing animals in far northwestern Canada as given by Mr.
Moberly, 203, 204

Geikie river, 116
timber on the shores of, 122, 123

Gillam, Captain, 7

Gold found in a bar on Loon river, 180
in the bars above the mouth of Battle river, 180
in the bars in Peace river, 180
in Repulse bay, 340

Grande Prairie, agricultural possibilities at, 155, 156

“Grand View” on Mackenzie river, 217

Gravel river, timber along, 270
plenty of moose, 290
fish, 295, 296

Great Bear lake, black spruce around, 271
timber, 276, 323
soil of the surrounding country, 265
fish, 300

Great Bear river, description of, by Mr. J. M. Bell, 271