Chapter III: Curing (1)

Growing tobacco is only half the battle. Having raised a crop to a state of perfection, the next object is to cure it for the market. This branch of the business demands fully as much care and skill as the purely agricultural part preceding it, and is perhaps equally influenced by the weather. The best crop ever grown may be completely spoiled by injudicious conduct during the drying, &c., while a growth of moderate quality may be made the most of by extra care and trouble.

_Harvesting._—The leaf being matured, it should be harvested only after the dew is off the plants, and not on a rainy day. There are two modes of harvesting—gathering the leaves singly, and cutting down the whole plant. Gathering single leaves admits of removing them from the plant as they ripen; the bottom leaves are removed first, and the top ones are left some time longer, until they have attained full maturity. The cultivator is thereby enabled to gather his crop when it possesses the greatest value. This plan necessitates, however, a great amount of labour, and, in a hot climate, the single leaves are apt to dry so rapidly as not to attain a proper colour, unless stacked early in heaps. But stacking in heaps involves great risk of the leaves heating too much, and developing a bad flavour, whereby the tobacco loses more or less in value. For Indian circumstances generally, cutting the whole plants is better than gathering the leaves singly.

For cutting down the plants, a long knife or chopper is used. A man takes the plant with his left hand about 9 inches from the ground, and with the knife in his right hand, cuts through the stem of the plant just above the ground. If the plants are sufficiently “wilted,” he may lay them on the ground and proceed to cut down others; if, however, they are so brittle as to cause the leaves to be injured by laying them down, he should give them to another person, to carry them at once under shade. During bright weather, the plants should not be allowed to lie exposed to the sun on the ground, or they will become sun-burnt, and lose in value. A temporary shed should be erected; it might be simply a light roof of palm-leaves or thatched straw, supported by poles; a large tree standing near will also serve the purpose. Under this shade, parallel rows of posts are put up, and on the posts, light poles or strong bamboos are fixed horizontally. The parallel lines should be about 4½ feet apart and the horizontal poles about 4–5 feet from the ground, according to the height of the tobacco plants. Rods are cut in lengths of 5 feet, and laid over the parallel bars, so that they will project about 3 inches at each end. A very light and convenient shelter sometimes used for sun-drying in America, consists of rods laid crosswise, supported on four upright poles, and covered with a sloping roof of boards. The plants that have been cut are immediately brought into the shade, tied in pairs, and hung across the rods. They must not be hung so close as to press each other, and the rods should therefore be 6–12 inches apart. The framework should be so large as to allow of one day’s cutting being hung. The plants are left thus for one day, during which time they will be wilted sufficiently to allow handling without tearing the leaves. In a very dry wind, mats or other cover should be laid against the plants most exposed to it, or their leaves will dry rapidly, shrivel up, and remain green. Next day the leaves are carted to the drying-shed. A cart supplied with a framework, in order that the plants may be hung as they were hung under the shade, is the best means. Perpendicular uprights at each corner of a cart or waggon are fixed together by horizontal poles. The plants may be hung so close as not to press heavily on each other, 200–400 being brought to the shed at one time.

As a general rule, Judson Popenoe thinks “tobacco should be cut in about 2 weeks from topping, at which time the leaves assume a spotted appearance and appear to have fulled up thicker; double up the leaf and press it together with thumb and finger, and, if ready to cut, the leaf where pressed will break crisp and short. Do not let your tobacco get over-ripe, or it will cure up yellow and spotted: it is better to cut too soon than too late. Take a hatchet or short corn-knife, grasp the stalk with the left hand, bend it well to the left, so as to expose the lower part of the stalk, strike with the knife just at the surface of the ground, let the stalk drop over on the ground without doubling the leaves under, and leave it to wilt. The usual practice is to worm and sucker while the dew is on in the morning, and as soon as the dew is off to commence cutting. There are some who advocate cutting in the afternoon, say 3 o’clock; let it wilt and lie out until the dew is off next day, and take it in before the sun gets hot enough to burn it. I prefer the first plan, because a heavy dew may fall on the tobacco, and next day be cloudy, leaving the tobacco wet and unpleasant to handle. After cutting, allow the tobacco to wilt long enough to make the leaves tough, so that they can be handled without tearing. Great care is now necessary to keep the tobacco from sun-burning; cutting should be commenced as soon as the dew is off, and all that is cut should be housed by 11 o’clock, unless it is cloudy; from 11 to 2 o’clock the direct rays of the sun on the tobacco, after it is cut, will burn the leaves in 20 minutes; after 2 P. M., as a general thing, there is no danger of such burning, the sun’s rays not striking direct on the tobacco. Have a waggon at hand, with stiff boards, 12 feet long, laid on the running gears; as soon as the tobacco is wilted so that it can be handled without breaking, commence loading on both sides of the waggon on the front end, lapping the tobacco the same as loading fodder, keeping the butts out on both sides—build about 2 feet high, and so on until loaded.”

Any one accustomed to the cultivation of the crop, says Bishop, “knows when it is ripe,—the veins of the leaves are swollen, the leaves begin to look spotted and feel thick and gummy. The ends of the leaves will crack on being doubled up. After it is ripe, the sooner it is cut the better, as it is liable to injury by frost or hail, and will not increase in weight as fast as the worms eat it, and the leaves get broken by catching them. The plants will generally ripen from the 1st to the 15th of September; they should not be cut immediately after a heavy rain unless in danger of frost, as a portion of the gum washes out, but should be allowed to stand 2–3 days. The cutting should not begin until the dew is off; a cloudy day is best, for when the sun shines hot, they will not have time to wilt sufficiently before they will sunburn, which may be known by the leaves turning white and looking puckered. Commence on one side of the piece, laying the plants all one way, in order to facilitate loading. The plants may, most of them, be broken off easily, by gently bending them over one way and another. Small plants, which will not break, may be sawed off with an old saw or cut with a hatchet. If the sun shines too hot, the plants should be turned over carefully to prevent burning. After lying an hour or two to wilt sufficiently, so as not to break by handling, they may be carted to the barn.”

In the words of Schneider, “when the plant begins to yellow, it is time to put it away. It is cut off close to the ground, by turning up the bottom leaves and striking with a tobacco-knife, formed of an old scythe—such knives as are often used for cutting corn. Let it lie on the ground for a short time to wilt, and then carry it to the tobacco-house, when it may be put away in three different modes, by ‘pegging,’ ‘spearing,’ and ‘splitting.’ Pegging tobacco is the neatest way and best, yet the slowest. It is done by driving pegs about 6 inches long and ½ inch or less square into the stalk, about 4 inches from the big end of the stalk; and these pegs are driven in with a mallet, in a slanting direction, so as to hook on to the sticks in the house. It is then put on to a ‘horse,’ which, by a rope fixed to one corner, is pulled up in the house and there hung upon the sticks, which are regulated at proper distances. A ‘tobacco-horse’ is nothing more than three small sticks nailed together so as to form a triangle, each side being 3–4 feet long. Spearing is the plan I pursue; because it is neat enough and decidedly the quickest plan. A rough block, with a hole mortised in it, and a little fork a few inches from the hole for the tobacco-stick to rest upon, one end being in the hole and a spear on the other end of the stick, is all the apparatus required; the plant is then, with both hands, run over the spear and thus strung upon the sticks, which, when full, are taken to the house and hung up at once. There are ‘dart-spears,’ like the Indian dart, and ‘round spears.’ Either will do. ‘Splitting’ tobacco is admired by many, who contend that it cures brighter, quicker, and is less likely to ‘house-burn’ or injure from too thick hanging. This mode is pursued easily by simply splitting, with a knife made for the purpose, the plant from the top to within a few inches of the bottom, before it is cut down for housing.”

Another planter observes that “when a plant begins to ripen, it will gradually assume a ‘piebald’ or spotted appearance. As the ripening advances, the spots will become more distinct and individualized. When the spots can be distinguished at the distance of 10 steps, and the leaves of the plant turn down, become stiff to the touch, and their ends curl under, the plant is ripe, and should be cut. From the moment it has arrived at maturity, it begins to decay. Remember that all the plants in your crop are to be hung after they are cut—hung on something, and by something. Prepare a knife—a butcher-knife answers well—have it sharp—enter it at the top of the plant, where the top was broken off. Enter it centrally; press it downwards, dividing the stalk into two equal portions. Continue it downwards till within 5 inches of the ground. Withdraw the knife, and cut off the stalk close to the ground. The plant is now cut. Lay it on the ground with the lower end towards the sun. The plants should be placed in rows as they are cut, in order to facilitate the labour of gathering them. There is one caution to be heeded in cutting tobacco, and that is, do not let it be burnt or blistered by the heat of the sun. In some varieties of tobacco this will be effected in one hour; in others, not so soon. But this danger can be evaded in two ways: first, by cutting late in the evening; second, by throwing it in the shade, or covering it so as to weaken the power of the sun. Some varieties of tobacco will wilt (that is, become soft or limber) in 2 hours; others, in a longer time, according to the degree of sun-heat.”

Bishop tells us that when “the plant begins to yellow or turn spotted, it is time to put it away. It is cut off close to the ground, turning up the leaves, and cutting off close to the roots, by a single stroke of a hatchet, or tobacco-knife, made of an old scythe, such as are used in cutting up corn. After cutting, let it lie on the ground a short time to wilt, when it may be handled without danger of tearing the leaves; it is then to be taken to the house to be ‘hung.’”

The condition of the leaf, according to Pursley, may be judged in the following manner:—“When the tobacco is ripe, it has a yellow faded colour, and becomes brittle; the surface of the leaf is rough and ridged. By bending the leaf short between the fingers, it will break before it will double. The sticks to hang it on should be in readiness. The best mode of hanging or stringing is with a V-shaped spear, made of iron or steel. The spear has a socket, large to admit the end of the stick. The sticks should be sharpened at one end, to fit the socket; should be 4 feet 6 inches in length, 2 inches wide, and 1 inch thick. A stick of these dimensions will hold 8 plants. The tobacco should be cut off just below the bottom leaf, then turn the plant upside down, and let it remain so till the sun wilts it. When it is wilted it can be handled without breaking; then it should be taken up and laid in piles of 8 stalks each, placing the butts of the stalks towards the sun, to prevent it from sun-burning. When it is sun-burnt it turns black, and it cannot be cured any other colour than black, which ruins its sale. The sticks should be strewed along, one stick to a pile; place the spear on the end of the stick, and set the stick upright; then take up the tobacco, one stalk at a time, and thrust it on the stick, letting the spear pass through the stalk, about 6 inches from the butt end; then take the spear off and take up the stick, and shake the tobacco out straight, and set the stick up with the butts towards the sun.”

Some tobacco-growers, remarks Pursley, “prefer splitting the stalk from the top down to within about 6 inches of the butt, then hang it on the sticks. But I cannot agree with them, for it is more difficult to handle, and is apt to slip off the stick, when moving it; besides, the tobacco cured in this manner is not so heavy as if it was speared. It dries out quicker by being split, but the substance evaporates instead of remaining in the leaf. I am not certain that it injures the taste of the tobacco, but I am certain that split tobacco is lighter than that which is speared. Some prefer hanging the tobacco on scaffolds in the field until it is ready to be put in the barn and cured by fire. But it is the safest to house it as soon as it is strung on the sticks. Scaffolding is done by placing poles on forks, about 4 feet apart, and 4–5 feet from the ground; then hang the tobacco between the poles, letting the ends of the sticks rest on the poles. This procedure is unsafe, for the rain may come and saturate the tobacco and wash off the gum, thus making it light and chaffy.”

The maturity of tobacco is defined by Schneider as when the leaves, which have hitherto been green, on holding them “against the sun, show yellowish, reddish, or brownish spots, feel sticky, and when bent break off short and clean. Before this period sets in, the _drying-house_ should be in good order. This house is built to give room for the free hanging up of the tobacco, so that it is protected from the sun, wind, and rain, and is allowed to dry by the free circulation of the air. Any building, therefore, will answer which has a good roof, boarded sides, and enough windows and air-holes (which can be closed at will) to keep up a mild circulation of air inside, and also to keep out strong and too quick drying winds. If the tobacco is grown on a large scale, the house should have large doorways to drive a waggon in and out. There must be sticks all over the house, either cross or lengthwise, and these sticks must be ready and in their places. Now the work of harvesting the crop is commenced on a clear or cloudy but not rainy day. The mature plants (those not ripe are left longer on the field if not too late in the season) are cut off near the ground, two of them tied together by the butt-ends and hung up in the field on riders, which rest on two forks fastened in the ground, and they are left there until evening to wilt; then they are brought to the drying-house and hung up. The tobacco is hung up on the upper sticks first, and the work continued downward; care is taken that the sticks are 6–8 inches apart, also that the plants are not too near together on the sticks, because the air should have free passage among the plants, and when they touch or rub against each other, unsightly spots are produced. The sticks must be pretty wide, so that the two plants which are tied together, and one of which hangs on each side, are held well apart. Later, when the tobacco has dried off somewhat, the sticks and plants may be moved a little nearer to each other; but the plants on the upper sticks must not touch those on the lower; they should be so arranged that one lower stick is just in the middle of the space between two upper ones.”

Another method of harvesting is recommended by Schneider for those “who cultivate tobacco on a small scale, or who have hands and time enough. As all the leaves on the plant do not ripen at the same time, but the under leaves are always a little earlier than the upper ones, they may gather the crop in the leaf, that is, taking only the matured leaves from the stalk; this must be done daily, and so long as there are leaves on the stalk. In this way the crop will be harvested slower, and it will cost more, but the tobacco will be of more even quality and better. The leaves are strung on strings instead of being hung up on sticks, with the same care and precautions as recommended for hanging up the whole plants. After the leaves are off, the stalks must be cut off or pulled up, for they would still vegetate, and needlessly take away nourishment from the soil. No more tobacco, leaves or plants should be cut than can be taken to the drying-house and hung up the same day.”

Perry Hull’s instructions commence with a caution that the plant should never be cut while the dew is on the leaves; “but wait until it is off, say 10 o’clock, and what tobacco is cut from that time until 2 o’clock, if the day is hot, will need close attention. In short, the whole operation, from cutting in the field, to the hanging upon the poles in the barn, needs care, as a little carelessness or inattention will damage many dollars’ worth. No hand should be allowed to handle it, who is unwilling to use care, and perform every operation just as directed, or else by breaking of leaves, or sticking fingers through them, &c., he may do more damage than his wages amount to. The plant to be cut should be taken by the left hand, not carelessly by the leaves, but carefully by the stalk, and as carefully leaned over, to give a chance to use the axe, which should have a handle about one foot long. Cut the plant with one blow, laying it carefully down, with the top to the sun; if it is laid otherwise, the leaf will burn before the main stalk of the leaf will wilt sufficiently to admit of handling. Even in that position, it may burn unless attended to, but not as soon. After lying until pretty well wilted, and before burning, turn it over and wilt the other side. When so wilted that the main stem has lost most of its brittleness, load as explained above; taking hold of the butt of the stalk, lay them carefully upon the arm, and again as carefully upon the load. If the day be very hot, use expedition in getting to the shed, else, if the distance be great, the load may heat, which will spoil the leaves for anything but fillers.”

When the plants are carried into the shed, “if quite warm, they should be left only one plant deep upon the floor and scaffolds. If the day be cool, and they are to be hung up soon, they may lie much thicker. They should never be hung upon a pole less than 5 inches in width. If sawed pieces are used, saw them just that; if poles are used, see that they are about that; for if anything of less width is used, the plants will hang so close, that the chances of ‘pole-burn’ are greatly increased. They are fastened to the pole by a half hitch. (Their position is represented by Fig. 9 on p. 95.) It requires two hands to hang them, one to hand them, another to tie them. The poles should be about 18 inches apart, and the number hung upon a 12-foot pole will depend upon the size, from 24 to 30, so regulating them, that when thoroughly wilted, they will scarcely touch each other. If hung thicker than this, a little unfavourable weather will cause more or less pole-burn, sweat and mould. After the tobacco is hung, the building should be so thoroughly ventilated that there will be a circulation of air through every part. The ventilators should be kept open during all fair weather, until well cured down. During storms, shut the doors and exclude as much wet as possible; being cautious to give it a thorough ventilation again, as soon as the rain ceases. When it is cured enough to be husky in dry weather, exclude all hard winds, that will crack and damage the leaves. When the leaves are so much cured, that there is nothing about them green but the stem, a moderate quantity of wet weather will not injure it, but rather improve the colour; as the sap of the stalk works through the stems into the leaves, during moist weather until the stalk has been well frozen; after this takes place, the tobacco should be picked.”

White estimates that in “the course of 2 or 3 weeks after topping, the plants will begin to ripen, which may be known by the change in colour of the leaf. It will look spotted with spots of lighter green, a yellowish green. When fully ripe the leaf may be folded together, and moderately pressed without breaking or cracking. Now is the time to begin to harvest it. All this is supposed to take place before there is any appearance of frost, as a very light frost often does great damage. All touched by it is ruined, and good for nothing. The crop must be cut and hung, even if not fully ripe, before any frosts occur. If there are strong appearances of a frost, you can secure the crop by cutting it down, and putting it either under your sheds, or by putting it in piles, not over 1 foot deep, in the field, and covering with straw. It is well to let it stand, if not fully ripe, as long as it can safely, for the cool nights have a tendency to thicken up the leaves. The cutting is best performed with a hay-knife, with a sharp, rounding point, in the following way: stand at the right-hand side of the plant or row; with the left hand grasp the stalk down 2 or 3 leaves from the top and lean it back on the row; now, with the point of your cutter held in the right hand 2–3 inches from the stalk, close to the root under the bottom leaf, with a sudden stroke or dab, sever the same from the root; lay it gently down back in a line with the row. Proceed in like manner to cut what you can take care of, and not get injured by sunburn. Have two rows of butts together, lying the same way for after-convenience. This cutting is done after the dew is off in the morning, or in the afternoon. Let it remain until the top side is somewhat wilted; then commence to turn it over. Step between the two rows with the butts lying toward you, and with each hand take a plant on either side; raise them from the ground, and by twisting the hands in or out, turn the plants, laying them either to the right or left, as most convenient, at right angles to their former position. Go through with the 2 rows, and you have the next 2 with the butts the other way; take these and lay the tips directly opposite those first turned, and you have an alley, with the butts of the plants of two rows on either side, which will be convenient to drive in to load. When wilted sufficient to be handled without breaking, if in the forenoon, you can load it from the rows as they lie; if in the afternoon, it is best to put in hakes, which is done by putting five plants at the bottom, and on these four, decreasing one on each layer, and terminating with one on the top; this will protect it from dew and wet. The best cart for hauling the tobacco is a one-horse waggon, geared long, with merely a platform resting on the axles. Such a cart can be driven between the rows and loaded from either side, having the butts of the plants uniformly one way, and laid crosswise on the platform. Great care should be used, in all the handling, not to bruise, break, or tear the leaves. Having cut all, excepting your seed-plants, strip all the leaves from these, and set a stake to each to tie it up to; let the stake be a foot taller than the plant; it will answer to keep a piece of old carpet from breaking down the stalk when you wish to cover it up on cold nights. Let the seed-plants stand till the pods or bolls are cured to a brown, and the seed is ripe; then cut off the top of the seed-stalk, and hang it up in some dry and safe place, where it will be ready to shell and use the next season; only the ripest and best pods should be used.”

Libhart alludes to the existence of several ways of hanging cut tobacco plants, but specifies the two following as the best and shortest: “first, splitting and hanging it upon laths or poles and leaving it to partially cure in the field; secondly, nailing it to rails with lathing-nails, at once in the shed. The former method, for high northern latitudes, is by far the best, as it will cure in a much shorter time (and thus prevent the destruction of the crop by freezing in the shed), by the drying of the pith of the stalk, which is the main reservoir of moisture. It is performed as follows:—Have a chisel about 1 foot long and 3 inches broad, the sharp end not bevelled on one side, but coming to an edge by a gradual taper on both sides (a common tenon-saw will do pretty well); place the edge of the chisel in the centre of the stalk upon the end where it has been topped, and push it down, guiding it in its course so as not to break or cut off any leaves, to within 3–4 inches of the ground; the stalk may then be cut off with a hatchet, or with the chisel if it be made pretty strong. The splitting may be done in the morning when the leaves are too brittle to admit of the stalk being cut down, and then when the sun has sufficiently wilted the leaves, the stalk may be cut and left to lie until it will bear handling without breaking the leaves. The lath being previously prepared, 4 feet in length and about 1 inch in thickness on one edge, and ½ inch on the other, and 2 inches broad (or poles cut in the forest will answer pretty well); then have trestles prepared high enough to allow the stalks to hang suspended without touching the ground, and set far enough apart in the field to admit of the lath reaching from one to another; now place the stalks of tobacco upon the lath (previously laid across the trestles), by slipping them over and down until they will hang perpendicular and 6–8 inches apart, so they will merely touch, without crowding too much. It may be left hanging thus exposed to the weather until the leaves are so wilted that the stalks hang apart without touching, and the lower leaves begin to dry, when it is taken off the trestles, each lath entire, and laid upon a waggon and hauled to the drying-shed.”

Before the tobacco is ready for harvesting, Hudson suggests the preparation of “a supply of sticks for hanging. Sticks 4 feet long and 1 inch square are most convenient; 12 sticks to every 100 plants will be sufficient. For sun-curing, there should be a shed built at one or more convenient points of the patch. This may be done by placing posts in the ground to support the poles, as represented in Fig. 8. The poles _a_ being for the support of the smaller poles _c_, upon which the tobacco-sticks are placed, and _b_ for the cover, when necessary that it should be shedded.”

Mitjen’s translator gives the following account of the Cuban practice. “Tobacco should be cut during the wane of the moon; and although most _vegueros_ say that it is impossible to do this, because the leaves commence to ripen both during the new and the full moon, and would be over-ripe before its wane, we can, nevertheless, assert that we know persons who never cut their tobacco during the first quarter, or when rain has made it again green. These persons have never experienced any difficulty; rather, on the contrary, they are those who always obtain the best prices and the greatest money results. Cutting tobacco during the first quarter of the moon, or when vegetation is renewed in the leaf, is one of the principal reasons why the leaf becomes pricked with holes, and this very frequently even before it is taken from the plantation to the market. The system generally observed is, in cutting tobacco, to take off, at once, all those parts of the plants which may be really or apparently ripe, and to load up the poles indiscriminately, without any division between the pairs of leaves (_mancuernas_). This system is highly prejudicial. The leaves of the same plant are not all of the same quality, neither do they all at the same time acquire the same degree of ripeness. Those of the crown, or the pairs at the top of the plant, immediately next the flower or seed, receive the sun direct on their upper surface, and are the first to ripen, whereas the lower ones, being shaded by the upper ones, remain still in an unripe state; moreover, the lower leaves at the foot of the plant, and even those of the fifth or fourth pairs (_mancuernas_), compared with those of the first, second, and third pairs, are inferior in quality, and, comparatively speaking, may be termed leaves without substance. The contact of these leaves with the upper ones frequently occasions putrid fermentation on the poles (_cujes_) and in the packs (this is vulgarly called _sahorno_), especially if there is much dampness in the atmosphere. When this misfortune happens in a tobacco curing-house all the weak leaves will be lost, and the strong ones will be so injured that the best quality of _capa_ would turn to _tripa_, and that of bad consistency.

“The cause of this destruction, from which the _veguero_ suffers more or less in the best of crops, may be easily explained. The curing of tobacco is nothing more than a series of fermentations. It ferments on the poles (_cujes_), ferments in the heaps (_pilon_), and ferments in the bales. All these fermentations are requisite for obtaining a good colour and smell, but it is better that each quality or consistency of tobacco should ferment apart. Tobacco of good strong quality, which is that produced by the upper leaves, naturally suffers a much stronger fermentation than the weak ones, because the former contain a larger proportion of juice; as the lower leaves have less substance, the fermentation is naturally weaker and lasts less time; but if the leaves are put in contact with those of a stronger quality, the fermentation would be kept up by the latter, and it would indispensably result that the weak ones would rot, and their contact be injurious to the stronger ones. But by separating, in the field, the leaves of different consistencies which each tobacco stalk produces, this evil is avoided, and the dry rot is rendered impossible, unless no care whatsoever is given in the curing-house. Therefore, the mode of reaping should be reformed. It is best to cut the tobacco when it is thoroughly ripe, and in the wane of the moon, making this operation in three sections or cuts, each of which should always be placed on separate poles, in separate rooms, heaps, and carefully picked.

“The first cut should consist only of the pair of crown leaves, and for the poles which they are hung on, a special corner in the curing-house should be set apart. After the first cutting, and 3 or 4 days of sun, the second and third pairs of leaves will be ripe, and may be cut at one and the same time, care being taken to place them on separate poles and rooms; and, lastly, 3 or 4 days after the second cutting, the remainder of the leaves may be gathered, but the last leaf near the ground should not be taken, as it has no consistency, and therefore no value as tobacco, and only serves to increase the work and give discredit to the class of tobacco.

“Tobacco should be cut during the hottest part of the day; each pair of leaves should be placed on the ground face downwards, so that the sun may strike on the under part of the leaf, and in this state it should be allowed to remain a sufficient length of time to wither, after which the pairs of leaves (_mancuernas_) should be picked up one by one, placed evenly on the arm, with the upper side of the leaf inwards, and each armful should be carried to and placed on the poles (_cujes_), which should be prepared beforehand near the spot where the tobacco is being cut. Two forked sticks should be placed strongly in the ground, and on these the pole should rest. After the tobacco leaves have been placed carefully on these poles and been allowed to wither, they should be carried to the curing-house before the sun has time to dry them. This operation must be performed by two labourers, who can carry each time two poles, placing the end of each on either shoulder, so that, in walking, the leaves on one pole may not cut against those on the other. These poles of leaves, when brought to the curing-house, should be fixed or hung by the points on the lowest stages, but so high that the points of the leaves do not touch the ground, and sufficiently apart one from the other that the leaves may not touch, because, being brought in from the field warmed by the sun, it is not judicious to allow them to touch. When the sun is not sufficiently strong to wither the cut leaves, reaping should not be continued. The tobacco should be so arranged on the poles that the pieces of stalk should gently touch one with the other, but without crowding.” However, if the weather should be damp, and the leaves large, space should be left between the pairs.

_Drying._—The drying-shed is prepared beforehand to receive the tobacco. When cultivating tobacco on a small scale, any shed will do, provided that it contains a sufficient number of doors and windows to admit of regulating the circulation of air. A roof made of straw seems to answer very well. The shed should be high enough to admit of hanging 3 rows of tobacco in it, one above the other. The bottom tier for the first row should be about 3–5 feet from the ground, according to the size of the plants, which should not touch the ground; the second tier should be 3–5 feet higher than the first; the third, 3–5 feet higher than the second; the whole being 10–17 feet high from the bottom of the shed to the highest tier. The tiers must be so arranged that the tobacco when hung on the upper tier should not touch that of the lower one, and that the rods on which the tobacco has been hung in the field fit exactly. The windows must face each other, and be placed between the tiers, so that the bottom part of the window is on the same level as the tier. When cultivating on a large scale, the same arrangements are made, but the building is higher, and is provided with a cellar, in which to place the tobacco for the purpose of stripping, &c.

The drying-shed being ready, the plants immediately on arrival at the shed are transferred from the conveyance, on the rods, to the lowest tier. No rule can be given as to the distance the rods should be placed from each other, as it varies according to the species of the plant, the degree of ripeness, and especially the state of the weather. The purpose of hanging the plant here on the lower tier is to cause the leaves to dry gradually, and assume a good yellow colour, and to create a slight fermentation in them, while allowing such a circulation of air between the plants as will facilitate the gradual escape of the moisture from them, and prevent the injurious development of ammonia and other combinations that give rise to bad flavour in the tobacco. How to attain this, exercises the judgment of the cultivator, who, by frequent examination of the plants, and by careful observation of the changes going on in the leaves, will soon find out the right way.

The rods should be placed closer together—(_a_) when the plants are much wilted on reaching the shed; (_b_) when the air is very dry, and the temperature is high; (_c_) when the leaves of the plant are very thin and contain little water. Plants which have the leaves closely arranged on the stems must be hung farther apart. When the air is very dry, and there is a strong breeze, the windows must be closed. If this is not sufficient, water may be poured on some heaps of sand, to create a moist atmosphere in the shed. When the stems of the plant are very thick, and consequently contain much sap, it is beneficial to open the windows, especially at morning and evening, for some hours, that the wind may pass over the butt-ends. As the windows are situated above the lowest tier, the leaves will not be much affected by it.

The leaves must be examined carefully every day; one plant may progress very well, whereas another close by may decompose too rapidly, and another too slowly. Although no change of weather occur, it may yet be necessary to alter the position of the rods, in order that each plant and leaf may receive air in such a degree as is most conducive to its proper decomposition. Any change in the weather necessitates different arrangements. The plant should remain on the lower tier until the leaves have turned yellow, which will take place within 6–10 days, according to circumstances; after this, they are hung on the upper tiers. There they should be more apart, each plant hanging free. When on the upper tiers, the tobacco may be said to be in the free-hang; and when on the lowest tier, in the close-hang. The object in hanging the plants more apart on the upper tier is to dry them more rapidly there, and for this purpose, the shutters may be opened, unless there be a strong dry wind. The light-yellow colour of the leaves should change into a dark yellow-golden or light-brown colour. After hanging on the upper tier for about a week, the veins of the leaves will be nearly dry, leaving only the midribs pliant. The drying of the leaf and the changing of its colour proceed gradually, commencing from the margin and proceeding to the midrib. At this time, the plants are hung closer together, the evaporation from the leaves being little, and the space and sticks being required. The plants hanging on two or three sticks may be hung on one stick. All the windows may be kept open from this time; the tobacco may also be brought into an open shed, or even hung outside exposed to the sun. In about a week more, the midribs will be entirely dried up, and the tobacco will be fit for stripping. In some climates, it may be necessary to facilitate the drying by the aid of artificial heat. For this purpose, heated air should be conducted into the drying-shed, without the fire, or the products of combustion, being admitted.

Pursley warns tobacco growers that the plant should not be exposed to the weather after it is cut, but should “be immediately conveyed to the barn and hung up. As soon as it gets about half yellowed, a slow fire should be started under it; if made too hot at first, the tobacco will turn black. About the second day the ends of the leaves will begin to curl up; then the fire should be gradually increased, till it heats the tobacco blood warm; it should be kept up so till the leaf is thoroughly cured. If this rule be strictly adhered to, the tobacco will be cured bright. The brighter it is cured the better it sells.

“Our barns are generally built of logs, some have frames. The barn should be made tight up to the tobacco, which should hang about 8 feet from the ground; above this leave cracks or air-holes, sufficient for free ventilation. A barn to hold 2½ acres of tobacco, which is as much as one man can attend to, should be 24 feet square. It should have 5 tiers of poles, the lowest about 6 feet from the ground; these should extend across the barn, and be fastened at each end into the walls. The poles should be 4 feet apart, and the tiers directly one above another. The sticks which contain the tobacco should be placed within 8 inches of each other, on all the poles except the bottom ones, which should be left vacant directly over the fire. When tobacco is nearly cured, it very readily catches fire. If there be a wet spell of weather before the stalks are thoroughly dry, build a fire under the tobacco sufficiently hot to keep it dry. It should not get damp and pliant until the stalks are dry, then it may be allowed to get damp.”

Libhart recommends that the shed “be constructed of timbers strong enough to resist storms, and boarded ‘up and down.’ About every 3 feet one board should be hinged, to readily open and shut. If it is intended to split and lath the tobacco, the inside of the shed must be divided by rails into widths to accommodate the lath, and likewise into tiers, one above the other, far enough apart to allow the stalks to hang from, well separate. The frame of rails and timbers inside the shed destined to sustain the weight of the tiers of tobacco (which, when green, is exceedingly heavy) should be strongly constructed, so as to preclude the possibility of breaking down, for if this should happen to the upper tier, in all probability the whole would be tumbled to the ground.”

The housing of the crop proceeds, says Dennis, “as fast as it is cured up on the scaffold, or as the indications of rain make it necessary, care being taken not to bruise or tear it in hauling. The sticks of tobacco may be piled upon the waggon or cart, and hauled to the barn and hung up, commencing in the highest part of the building, and filling up as you go downwards. If the leaves are pretty well cured, you may hang it so as to touch, without crowding it; if not, there should be a little space between. If a cold, rainy spell comes on, you will need to introduce some means of artificial drying. A trench is sometimes dug, and a log or two of wood placed in it, and a fire made, taking care to remove the tobacco immediately over the fire, and avoiding much blaze. This is dangerous, and a better plan is to make a trench across the floor of the barn, of mason-work, covered with sheet-iron, and leading from a furnace outside the house on one side, to a chimney at a safe distance on the other. The colour and quality of tobacco may be improved by hanging it closely and curing by artificial heat, watching that it does not become ‘funked,’ or moulded, while curing; but the best plan for a beginner is to dry it safely, and make a sure crop, experimenting as he goes along, in order to improve the quality, as he may safely do so. When the stalk becomes dry and entirely cured, which will not usually be for some weeks, the crop is ready to ‘strip.’ The hanging tobacco yields to the influence of a rainy day or a foggy morning, and ‘comes in case,’ or softens, so it will not crumble. It must never be handled when dry. When it is just soft, not damp, or when it is barely so soft that it can be handled (if it is approaching that softened state), it may be taken down and taken off the sticks, and ‘bulked,’ by piling it alongside a partition, or by itself, with the butts of the stalks outward in every direction, and the tops or leaves in the centre. Several hundred pounds may be thus bulked down, and can be worked up while the hanging tobacco has gone out of case, and cannot be touched.”

According to Bishop, it usually requires about 12 weeks to cure the plants thoroughly, that is, so that there is no more juice in the leaves or leaf-stems; it matters not if the main stalk is not dry, you need not expect it, and there will be green leaves that will not cure but freeze while green and are worthless. He calculates that to “hang an acre of good tobacco requires a building about 30 by 24 feet with 15-feet posts. Two girths should be framed into the posts on all sides of the building; one 5 feet above the sill, and the other 10 feet above, to rest the poles on, also to nail the covering boards to. This gives a space of 5 feet for each tier of plants. Have a beam run across the centre of the building, with a post in the middle with girths to correspond with those on the side, extending lengthwise through the middle of the building for the poles or rails, each 12 feet in length, to be laid upon; or if sticks are to be used (as hereafter described) lay rails or poles once in 4 feet for the sticks to rest upon. Place a ventilator upon the centre of the roof, and have one board in every 4 feet hung on hinges, to be opened or closed at pleasure. If made with a floor and a cellar underneath, to let down the tobacco into when ready stripped, it is all the better. We will now return to the crop, and commence hanging it. A common way of doing it is by tying with common twine. Tie the end of the string tightly around the butt of one plant, and by placing it against the side of the pole nearest you, put another plant on the opposite side and carry the string over and around it, placing the plants alternately on each side of the pole until filled, then fasten the string, place the pole in the right place (it should be nearly right before it is filled), and commence on the next one in like manner, having some one to hand the plants as wanted. As to how thick to hang it depends upon the size of the plants, but in good-sized tobacco about 9 inches on each side is close enough, that will be from 30–32 on each pole of 12 feet; place the poles 15–18 inches apart. Another method of hanging, much practised and approved by many, is to hang on slats or sticks sawed out 4 feet long, 1¼ inches wide, and ⅝ inch thick. Chestnut timber is generally used here. The common lath answers very well for this purpose. An iron made something like a chisel is used to slip on to one end of the sticks, which are sharpened a little at one end to receive it. It is made about 8 inches long, wedge-shaped at the small end, and a socket ½ inch by 1 inch to slip on to the sticks. When ready for use have a place fixed near where you unload, to hold one of these sticks out at right angles from a post and about 4 feet from the ground. Let the plants be handed you from the load and slip them on the stick, piercing the stalk about 6 inches from the butt; put 6 or 7 plants of medium size on each stick, thicker if smaller; when hung it will appear as in Fig. 9. As each stick is filled, it may be carried to its place in the barn. In getting them to the top of the barn, they may be handed up with a pitchfork, lifting them by the middle of the sticks. These sticks should be about 8 inches apart. I think a greater amount can be put into a given space by this method without danger of sweating, as it is more evenly distributed. The loose leaves that have been broken off while handling, may be cured by placing 4 or 5 together and securing to a small pole, in the same way as plants are hung with twine.”

Hanging is done in the following manner:—“The ‘hanger’ stands in an erect position, having for a foothold the poles on the tier below the one which he is hanging; he has a ball of tobacco-twine (a twine made of flax, procurable at any seed-store) which for convenience is carried in the bosom of the loose blouse generally worn; he stands with the left side to the pole on which the tobacco is to be hung, left arm over it; the stalk of tobacco is handed to him by a boy whose duty it is to pass it to him; the stalk is then taken in the left hand and placed against the side of the pole, the butt projecting an inch or two, around which projection the twine is wound from left to right (the twine having previously been fastened to the pole); the next stalk is placed on the other side of the pole, just far enough along so that the leaves of the two stalks will not touch and ‘pole-burn,’ and so continue, the stalks being hung alternately on the sides of the pole, as seen in Fig. 9. After the house is filled, some put fires under the crop to hasten its drying; but it is found by experience that the practice is not a good one.”