Chapter III: Curing (2)

Bishop describes the common size of tobacco-house as about 100 feet long by 24 feet wide, posts 17 feet long, and built upon a wall 18 inches high; the buildings are framed with girths from bent to bent, for boarding up and down, the bents being 12 feet apart. The external appearance is illustrated in Fig. 10. “The boards for closing up the building should be 1 foot wide, and at intervals of about 5 feet a board should be hung with light strap hinges, to serve as a ventilator to admit light and dry air, and to exclude damp. These ventilators or doors must be closed on frosty nights, but in fair dry weather should remain open. The tobacco poles, the ends of which rest upon the bents, should be about 13 feet long, 2 inches thick by 6 inches wide, of some light timber, such as elm or basswood, and when hung with tobacco should be 8–10 inches apart. A large door should be placed at either end for ingress and egress. The poles, of which there should be 4 tiers, are laid from bent to bent, resting the ends of the cross beams in the bent, tiers 4 feet 4 inches apart.” A sectional view of the barn is shown in Fig. 11.

White suggests that stables, sheds, and barn floors can be arranged “so as to hang up an acre or two by setting stanchions with holes mortised in them to hold rests for your poles about 4½ feet apart. Set such ones on either side with a very stout rail, one end in either post. Set these as often as you may need them, depending on the length of your poles. No poles should be so long as to sag very much when filled with plants. But for another reason I would build a house expressly for hanging and storing tobacco. Make it of good, liberal dimensions, 30 feet wide, by 40 or more in length; posts, 14 feet, with two tiers of girths for poles to rest on; one tier can hang on the beams, and another above on the purlin plates, thus hanging 4 tiers under the same roof. Ventilate by a ventilator in the roof, also by hanging every other board of the siding on hinges. For such a building, I would have a tight floor to the whole, and underneath a good walled cellar lighted with suitable windows, and chimney in one corner, with a stove, to keep fire in in very cold weather, to work by when stripping the tobacco. For poles to hang on, I would get, if possible, straight, slim, white pine staddles about 4–5 inches in diameter; shave the bark off smooth, and we have poles that will last and remain straight a lifetime, if kept housed.

“Having provided all required, even to the strong cotton or hemp twine for tying up the tobacco, have a good man to hand it to you. Commence by tying the end of your twine around the butt of a plant, about 2 inches from the end, in a slip or loose knot; place this plant at one side of the pole near the end, your hand carrying the twine over the pole; on the opposite side of the pole, about 6 inches along, place another plant, and with a single turn of the twine around it from before, round back, and by drawing it close, the plant is secure. Proceed thus till you have filled your pole; then with a knife, cut a notch in the pole and draw your twine through, and it is fast. You can now cut it off and commence another pole. Place the poles far enough apart to prevent the tobacco crowding; about 1 foot will do. In this manner you will have a row of plants hanging on each side of the pole about 1 foot apart. The man, in handing up, should take the plant by the butt, carefully from the pile or load, raise it up and gently shake it sideways, to shake off dirt and loosen the leaves when stuck together, and also adhering to the stalk; with the other hand, take hold about midways of the stalk and pass to the one tying up, enabling him to receive the plant in such a way as to not need to shift it in his hand, but to place it immediately into its position beside the pole. All leaves which are accidentally or otherwise broken from the plants, should be gathered up each day, and hung three or four in a bunch, the same way as the plants, or string them on a string; the latter is the best way—with a large needle-thread, a suitable cord, and on to this string the leaves one at a time, by running the needle through near the end of the stem. These can be hung by attaching the two ends to some suitable nail, and having it remain stretched. In this way they will cure very well.

“Having housed the whole of your crop, give it all the air you can, by opening doors, shutters, &c. Let them remain open during pleasant weather, remembering to close them in wet, damp weather, as well as nights; and also shading the crop so far as may be from the direct rays of the sun, to prevent blanching. When it has nearly cured, shut it up and let it remain till perfectly cured. This may be known by the stem of the leaves being dried up, so that no green sap will show itself. If you have hung in your stables and other places that you wish to use, it will be necessary to take it down and strip it at the first favourable opportunity, which is described farther along. The separate building elsewhere described is to be preferred, as it does not necessitate any immediate hurry in getting it down. In such it can be allowed to hang and freeze and thaw two or three times, which improves the colour and weight, and will give more leisure in stripping, &c. Watch a favourable time, when it rains and is damp, to open your buildings, and let in the damp air till the tobacco is damped, so that it can be handled without any danger of breaking the leaves. It need not get too damp, as in that case it is liable to injure in the pile before you can get it stripped. It will gain dampness from the stalk.”

The Cuban tobacco planter, according to Davis, “would force the drying in wet weather and retard it in dry weather, as either extreme is injurious; the wet is injurious, as the leaves, when they change from the natural colour to a pale yellow and light brown, easily mildew; when dry, as before-named, it is taken down. Damp weather is best, so as not to break the leaves, which are immediately stripped from the stalks and sorted into as many grades as the market may require, from one to four and even more grades, as ‘bright yellow, dull, seconds, and ground-leaves.’ But I see no necessity for but three grades, as the over-ripe, the unripe, and the just ripe at cutting, and when properly dried they show their grade plain enough to sort. After being stripped and sorted, they are to be separately piled (‘bulked’ some say) in courses of leaves—2, 4, or 6 tiers of leaves, stems end out, and 3–4 feet high. The leaves should be kept straight in all these handlings. The heap should be made up each day separate, as it begins to make tobacco in 12 hours or so, by fermenting, which is variously called ‘curing,’ ‘sweating,’ ‘conditioning,’ &c. Soon as the heap begins to get warm it should be re-piled, putting the inner tier out so as to equalize the fermentation; some re-pile several times and some none; but the fermentation should be kept equal, and if covered with old sail-cloth it can be regulated. This fermenting is allowed to proceed for 4–6 weeks by careful manufacturers; as it is the process that makes the tobacco to suit the taste of tobacco-epicures it should be carefully done, yet many do it in a careless manner, and thus have an article so poor as to not find many lovers. At the end of the 4–6 weeks the Cuba grower would have one side of each leaf slightly moistened with the decoction of tobacco, which is made by letting some leaves rot in clean water, and then he would tie it up in hanks of 25 or 30 leaves, and hang one day for drying, then take it down and pack it in tight casks as being best. From these leaves he would make the best Cuba cigars. The Virginian grower would not wet his tobacco after it had fermented, but simply tie it in hanks so that 5 or 6 would weigh a pound, and then pack it in his hogsheads for market; and this, after it had lain from one to six months in the ‘conditioning bulks.’”

Burton, translating from Mitjen, goes more fully into the Cuban practice. He advises firstly that the “shoots and the sprouts should be put apart from the principal tobacco, with which it should never be mixed, neither in the heaps nor in the packages. The day after the tobacco has been cut and placed in the curing-houses, the poles should be pushed together, making thus a compact mass, with the object, that by means of the warmth, which this contact produces, the fermentation should commence, called _maduradero_. In this state it should remain 2 or 3 days, according to the consistency of the tobacco and the state of the atmosphere. By means of this first fermentation it acquires an equal and a yellowish colour: by the second or third day, at the latest, this colour should be uniform, and then without loss of time the poles should be spread apart, and given all the ventilation possible, so that fermentation may not continue, and the drying of the leaves may be facilitated—care being taken that they are not exposed to the dew, the sun, nor to sprinkling of water, should it rain. As the tobacco dries, the poles should be hung on higher pegs, so as to leave the lower ones unoccupied for the fresh leaves brought from the fields. This operation should be performed early in the morning whilst the leaves are flexible and soft; because later in the day they become crisper, and are more apt to tear.

“It is not judicious to allow the tobacco to dry too precipitately, by exposing it to a very strong current of air, because strong wind greatly injures its quality; many leaves break, and that silkiness of appearance is destroyed which good leaves should have, and which it is desirable to preserve. During heavy winds the doors of the drying-house should be kept closed; they should also be kept closed if there is much dampness in the atmosphere occasioned by heavy and continuous rain. Dampness causes mildew, which shows itself first in the points of the leaves, and is the commencement of the rot. Under these circumstances, and to check this evil, it is convenient to spread, or part the poles a little; and if the rains, or the excess of humidity continue, fires should be kindled and smoke made in the curing-houses, opening at the same time the doors and the windows, so as to facilitate the circulation of air whilst the smoking is going on.

“After the tobacco is thoroughly dry, it should be placed on the highest beams, or pegs, of the framework which support the poles, squeezing them compactly together. This must be done in the morning whilst the leaves are soft, and all this should be done with a view of protecting it from the effects of change in the atmosphere. The house should, after this, be kept closed, until it is time to make the heaps.

“The object of heaping up the tobacco is to produce a second fermentation, so as to equalize the colour of the leaf and wear out of it that excess of gluten or resinous matter which is natural to the plant; this fermentation makes the leaves more silky and ductile, and gives them a more agreeable flavour. The place for making the heaps should be prepared beforehand, in one or more of the rooms of the tobacco-house, by making a kind of box lined with _yaguas_ (sheets of palm-tree bark) at the bottom and the sides, the base is a boarding on which should be placed a sufficient quantity of dry plantain leaves, which serve as a bed for the heaps.

“In the months of April or May, when the rainy season commences, the poles which are on the highest pegs of the scaffolding should be taken down and placed somewhat apart, one from the other, on the lower pegs. The doors of the house should be left open at night, so that the humidity from the atmosphere may enter, and when, in the morning, the tobacco is found to be soft and silky, it is fit to be placed in heaps. The pairs of leaves should then be collected in armfuls, with all the bits of stalks placed in one direction; the leaves that may be found doubled or crooked should be smoothed out, and each armful should be placed in layers in the heaps, placing the first layer at the bottom with all the woody pieces of the stalk touching the _yagua_ which forms the sides of the case; other layers should be placed with the stalk reversed, and in this manner, crossing the leaves, the pile should be raised up level. When a pile has a sufficient height, another, and another, is made until the tobacco is finished or the case is full, so that each heap may form a compact mass of leaves protected by the pieces of stalk all round, which should never touch the leaves, but only touch each other. When the heaps have been thus made, they should be covered with dry plantain leaves, or palm skins, and, in front, by palm leaves.

“Tobacco should not be packed thus when it is too damp, because a very strong fermentation would ensue, which, if kept up longer than necessary, would pass to putrefaction. The tobacco only requires to be soft, or flexible, before packing, so as to produce a certain degree of heat, neither is it convenient to pack tobacco when too dry, for then it would not ferment at all, nor would any beneficial results be produced. When it has been packed sufficiently soft, it undergoes after the second or third day a degree of heat of 110° to 120° F. in the centre of the heap, and if it does not acquire this degree of heat it is because it has been packed too dry.

“We have already said that reaping or cutting tobacco should be performed in three distinct sections, preserving always a distinction, consequently the crown leaves should form one heap, or one set of heaps; the second and third pairs another, or others; the fourths and the fifths others; and lastly, the _capaduras_ (second shoots from the same plants) others. This system, besides having the advantages which we have in another place described, greatly facilitates the sorting of the leaves, as the different qualities are from the first kept apart, and scarcely any other work remains to be done than that of taking out the broken leaves. Tobacco should be kept for at least 30 days in heaps, after which, sorting and choosing the leaves may commence, beginning first with the heaps of the inferior qualities.”

_Stripping._—Stripping may be performed at any time, provided the leaves, after being once properly dried, have again become pliable. For stripping, such a number of plants as will furnish work for several days are taken down on a morning, when the plants have absorbed some moisture, and have become elastic; they are put in a heap, and properly covered, to check evaporation. If, however, the night air should be so very dry that the leaves cannot absorb sufficient moisture to become pliable, a moist atmosphere can be created either by steam, or by pouring water on the floor, or by keeping vessels with water in the shed. If this cannot be done, the tobacco must remain hanging until there is damp weather. Under no condition should the tobacco be stripped when not pliant, that is if the leaves are so brittle that they would break when bent or rolled. The best arrangement is to keep the drying-shed and stripping-room separate, since the latter requires to be more moist than the former. A cellar under the drying-shed is best suited for stripping. It should be large enough to admit of the erection of a scaffold to receive the tobacco.

Pursley looks upon stripping as being labour suited to damp weather. He says, “the lugs, shipping, and manufacturing, which are worst, medium, and best qualities, should be separated at stripping. The ‘lugs,’ or worst quality, are found at the bottom of the plant; they are chaffy and light leaves, and should be stripped from the stalk and tied in bundles by themselves with all of the ragged, black, and injured leaves. The second quality, or ‘shipping tobacco,’ is a grade above the lugs; it is the red or brown tobacco; this should also be tied in separate bundles. The best, or ‘manufacturing,’ is the finest and brightest leaves, and should be put in bundles by itself. In stripping, the stems of the leaves should be broken off as close as possible to the stalk; this adds to the weight of the tobacco. In forming a bundle, the butts of the leaves should be placed evenly, and closely together, and pressed tightly in the hand; then a leaf should be folded to form a wrapper 2 inches in width; then wrap it tightly and smoothly around the butts of the leaves, winding it from the end down, about 2½ inches, then open the bundle in the middle, and tuck the wrapper-leaf through the opening, and draw it snug, so that when the opening is closed the wrapper-leaf will remain; this forms a bundle which we call a ‘hand of tobacco.’ The hands should be strung on sticks, and hoisted up in the barn on the tier-poles; 18–20 hands may be put on each stick, at equal distances apart.”

Libhart expresses his opinions on stripping in the following words. “At the setting in of a warm, drizzling, wet, foggy spell of weather, the shed must be opened on all sides to allow the damp atmosphere to pervade the whole interior; after the dry leaves have become damp enough to allow handling in any degree without breaking, the stalks must be taken off the lath or pulled down and laid in heaps about 18 inches or 2 feet high, and any desired length; if it is not intended to strip it immediately, it should be conveyed to a cellar or other apartment, where it will remain damp; it should not, however, be suffered to remain longer than 2 or 3 days in heaps, without examination, as there is sometimes sufficient moisture remaining in the stalks or frozen leaves to create heat and rot the good tobacco. If found to be heating, it should be changed about and aired and be stripped immediately. If found to be drying out, further evaporation may be checked by covering the heaps with damp straw or corn-fodder. Tobacco is usually stripped into two qualities, ‘ground-leaf,’ or ‘fillers,’ and ‘wrappers’; the leaves that lie next the ground, generally from 2 to 4, are always more or less damaged by sand beaten on by the rain and other causes, hence they only command about half the price of the good tobacco or ‘wrappers.’ The ground-leaves are taken off first and tied up separately in bunches. With a bunch clasped in one hand, take a leaf and wrap it around (beginning at the end of the bunch), confining the end under the first turn, continue to wrap smoothly and neatly until about 3 inches of the leaf remains, then open the bunch in the middle and draw the remaining part of the leaf through. This forms a neat and compact ‘hand,’ that will bear a great deal of handling without coming open. After the ground-leaves have been removed, the good leaves are stripped off and tied up the same as the ground-leaves, with this exception: the leaves of each stalk should be tied in a bunch by themselves, to preserve a uniformity in colour and size, as tobacco is sold in the market according to colour and size, therefore if the leaves of a large and a small plant, or of a dark-coloured and a light one, be tied up together, it at once diminishes the appearance and value of the crop.”

Dennis describes stripping as being “performed by holding the plant, top down, with the left hand, while with the right hand the leaves are pulled off, taking care to have the stems all even in the hand, so that the ends are together. When 10–15 leaves have thus been grasped by the right hand, change the handful to the left hand, and with the right, select a leaf and wrap it around the stems at the end, so as to bind them altogether and cover up the ends, then split the other leaves apart with the finger, and pull the end of your wrapping-leaf through, and you have a ‘hand’ of tobacco. A small ‘hand’ of leaves, uniform in size and colour, will be found the most desirable shape to tie it in, resembling Fig. 12. The bottom leaves of the plant, and all torn and defective leaves, should be tied up by themselves, and are known as ‘lugs.’ These ‘hands’ should be ‘bulked’ again, with the wrapped end out, and covered with straw, or anything that will retain the ‘case,’ and if subject to immediate sale, may be boxed up or hauled to market. If boxed, it should be put in tight boxes—if hauled, it should be kept covered until unloaded. Care must be taken to avoid ‘high case’—extreme dampness or softness in bulking tobacco after it is stripped—as it may be ‘funked’ in bulk, and ruined; and it should not be packed in that condition when it is liable to remain long. It is a crop that is never off of hands.”

According to Perry Hull, stripping, or, as he terms it, “picking,” should not take place till about December; “at least not until the _fat stems_ (main stems of the leaves, which are not thoroughly cured at the butt-end) have mostly or all disappeared, which they will have done by that time, if the crop reached maturity before harvesting. The operations of picking and assorting are by many, who make only two classes or qualities of the tobacco, carried on at the same time. By far the preferable way is, especially if there is a very large crop to pick, to take off the leaves during damp or wet weather, tie them into bundles of 15–20 lb., with twine, and pack it away into cellars, or wherever it can be kept without drying up. It can then be assorted in any kind of weather, thus gaining considerable time, as two will pick and tie up in this way as much during one wet spell as 6 hands would, assorting and hanking up, at the same time. Another reason why the last practice is preferable is, that, by the former, the assorting can be but indifferently done; whereas, by the last, it can be done as carefully as desired. Tobacco should not be allowed to get too wet before picking; in fact, should not be allowed to get wet at all, so as to feel wet, only just damp enough to make the leaves pliable, so as to handle and pack without breaking or feeling husky. If allowed to get wet, before picking, it is next to impossible to get it dried to the proper state again so uniformly but that some of the leaves will still be too wet, while others will be dry enough to crack and break. So if the rains are long enough to get it too wet, which they often are, by all means let it remain upon the poles until the next wet spell.”

_Sorting._—Tobacco intended for smoking should be carefully sorted when stripped. There should be four sorts: 1st, large, equally good coloured, untorn leaves; 2nd, leaves of good size and colour, but torn; 3rd, leaves of inferior colour, and bottom leaves; 4th, refuse, shrivelled-up leaves, &c., to which may be added the suckers No. 1 leaves, when thin, elastic, and of good sorts, are mostly valued as wrappers (outside covers) for cigars, No. 2 may also be used as wrappers, but are less valued than No. 1; they are adapted for fillers and cut tobacco. The different sorts are kept separate. The best plan is to let the most intelligent man strip the leaves from the stem, and at once separate them according to quality. The leaves should then be made into hands, i.e. 10–20 leaves should be tied together by twisting a leaf round the end of the stalks, each sort being attended by a special man, to avoid mixing. The leaves of the first sort being large, 10–15 will be sufficient for a hand; more are required of the other sorts. When making the hands of the two first sorts, each leaf is taken separately, smoothened on a flat board, and left there while another is treated in the same way, continuing thus until a sufficient number is ready to make a hand. When the hand is ready, it is laid aside, and a weight is placed upon it to keep the leaves smooth.

To sell well, according to Perry Hull, tobacco “should be assorted into three classes or grades, Wrappers, Seconds, and Fillers. The wrappers will include the soundest, best-coloured leaves, the colour (a dark cinnamon) should be as uniform as possible; this quality should include nothing but what is fit for wrappers. The Seconds, which are used as binders for cigars, &c., will include the small top leaves, of which, if the tobacco was topped too high, there will be one or two to each plant—the bad colours, and those leaves somewhat damaged by worms and bad handling, but not so much so as to be ragged. The third class, or Fillers, will include the balance of the crop, bottom leaves, ragged leaves, &c. The tobacco should be done up into hanks of about ⅓ lb. each, or about what can be encompassed by the thumb and fingers, winding at the butt with a pliable leaf, drawing the end through the hank to secure it.”

The Cuban system of sorting is described at considerable length by Mitjen, whose remarks are interpreted by Burton as follows. The operation consists in “separating one from the other the different leaves, according to their strength and quality, and dividing the produce of the crop into various classes. These are, in practice, styled _Libra_, 1st quality; _Quebrado_, 2nd quality, broken; _Injuriado de primera_; _Injuriado de segunda_, _de tercera_, _de cuarta_, _de quinta_, _de sexta_, _de setima_; _Libra de pie_, and _capadura_.

“Under this classification it is presumed that attention has been bestowed, not only to the special quality of the leaf, but also to its size, and its state, whether whole or broken; but it is very seldom that exactness is found in this classification, because but very few persons possess the requisite skill which such a complicated mode of sorting requires. Moreover, by the abuse of mixing in one heap all kinds of leaves, frequently brought in from the fields all mixed together, the proper sorting of tobacco becomes a very complicated affair.

“This kind of classification and nomenclature is, moreover, absurd, and does not positively represent fixed qualities, under the denomination of which, prices might be arranged which would serve as a guide to the merchant as well as the grower. In a word, the names, with which the different qualities of tobacco are to-day distinguished, signify nothing, and it is ridiculous to be guided in business by them. Until this kind of classification and nomenclature is changed, it is impossible to quote the mercantile prices for the different qualities, because the name does not represent the quality; and this confusion tends greatly to the prejudice of the planter, and the merchant; and hinders attaining the perfection after which we should strive.

“We have shown that the practice of making a classification of seven _Injuriados_ must not be taken as absolute. There are better modes of sorting in which a separation of 8, and even 9 _Injuriados_ should be made, and others, and by far the greater proportion, in which only 5 _Injuriados_ should be separated; so that the quality which, in one sorting, would appear under that of fifths—being the lowest of the crop—would be equal to eighths, or ninths, if picked more carefully; and the fifths, in a sorting, whose lowest class may be sevenths, is about equal in quality to that of thirds of other pickings, whose lowest class would be fifths, if both crops had produced equal kinds of tobacco.

“There is even more to confirm our opinion. Supposing two crops equal in all respects, and that each planter makes a separation of 7 _Injuriados_. This would not ensure that the intrinsic value of each respective quality would be equal; for each _Veguero_ has his own particular mode of considering the different classes, and some make a much more careful sorting than others. In the supposed case it may happen, as it frequently does, that the _Veguero_ A will take from his crop—which we will suppose to be one hundred packages—2 of the first, 3 of the second, 5 of the third, 8 of the fourth, 12 of the fifth, 30 of the sixth, and 40 of the seventh; whereas the _Veguero_ B will take from his, 4 of the first, 6 of the second, 10 of the third, 16 of the fourth, 32 of the fifth, 21 of the sixth, and 11 of the seventh; and it would result, from the comparison of these two supposed pickings, that each of these classes of the _Vega_ A would correspond to the immediate superior one of the _Vega_ B, as will be shown on the following calculation:—

A.
$ $
2 Bales, 1st at 120 = 240
3 ” 2nd ” 100 = 300
5 ” 3rd ” 80 = 400
8 ” 4th ” 60 = 480
12 ” 5th ” 40 = 480
30 ” 6th ” 25 = 750
40 ” 7th ” 20 = 800
—— ———
100 $3450
—— ———

B.
$ $
4 Bales, 1st at 100 = 400
6 ” 2nd ” 80 = 480
10 ” 3rd ” 60 = 600
16 ” 4th ” 40 = 640
32 ” 5th ” 25 = 800
21 ” 6th ” 20 = 420
11 ” 7th ” 10 = 110
——— ————
100 $3450
——— ————

“Here it may be seen that the second of A is worth as much as the first of B, the third of A as much as the second of B, and so successively in the other classes; and as it is of importance that names should represent fixed objects, and that each quality should represent a relative value, we think that the sortings and the classifications deserve a reform, which would undoubtedly bring with it advantages to the planter, to the merchant, the manufacturer, and the consumer.

“The reform in the sortings should take its origin from a reform in the plantation or field, and principally in the manner of cutting. By observing a methodical and well-calculated system, each one of the operations prepares and facilitates the execution of the succeeding one. In its proper place, we have recommended that the tobacco planter should not attempt to plant more than 12,000 plants for each labourer employed, so that all the plants may receive proper cultivation and attention. If all these plants are equally well taken care of, if the land has been properly prepared with manure, and all have had the same advantage of season, it is a necessary consequence that the fruit will be equally good. If afterwards the cutting or cropping is made in 3 sections, preserving always the separation we have recommended, we shall have, naturally, not a capricious assortment of leaves, but one in the order established by nature.

“None will, we think, question the fact that the pairs of leaves on one stalk must be equal in quality to those cut from an adjoining stalk, that is to say, all the crown leaves must be of the same quality, all the second also, and so successively. This admitted, we have the separation of qualities made, almost, in the field, and it only remains to separate the sizes, and the sound leaves from the torn ones, an operation which any person can make; and thus it will be unnecessary to employ those workmen who style themselves sorters, who are supposed to have an exact knowledge of the properties of each leaf. The sortings ought, therefore, to be made by classes, or by bales, each containing the separate qualities beginning with the bale of _capaduras_ and _mamones_, which may be mixed together in the same bale. Of this quality, however, not more than two classes should be made, which may be called suckers and sprouts; and in the class called sprouts, the sound and larger leaves of good consistency should be placed. The result would be a _tripa_ of good quality, and, after throwing away all those that are really without substance, the remainder would form the second class, and would make a useful _tripa_, although inferior to the former.

“When these are made, the next bales should be made of tobacco chosen from the inferior class of leaves, of which 3 classes ought to be made, and called _sano_, _quebrado_, and _desecho de tercera_. In the first class of these, which we will call third quality, should be placed all the sound leaves which have any consistency; and this would form a weak _capa_, equal to that which is now called clear fifths, _quinta limpia_, and this might be called _sano de tercera_. The second class should contain the torn or broken leaves of good consistency, but not so much broken or injured as to merit only the name of shavings, as the leaves which are very much torn, or small pieces of leaves, are called. This class would be called _quebrado de tercera_, and might be used for inferior _tripa_. The last class of this quality, after throwing away all the useless leaves, would be called _desecho_.

“After this, and in the same order as the preceding, three classes should be made from the sortings for the heaps of bad seconds and thirds, and called _sano_, _quebrado_, and _tripa_ of the second class. The first of these should contain all the sound leaves, and should be called _sano de segunda_, second-class sound. The second should be composed of the damaged leaves, but good for making _capa_, and should be called second-class broken; and the third, which will be the most broken, should be called second-class _tripa_.

“Finally, the picking, or sorting for the pile of pairs of crown leaves should be made; and of this quality there should also be three classes, which will be denominated ‘_sano_,’ ‘_quebrado_,’ and ‘_tripa de corona_,’ observing always the same order as was done for the piles or heaps of seconds and thirds.

“Sorting carried on in this order is so simplified that we do not doubt it might be done in one-third the time taken under the present system; and the labour of the resorters would be dispensed with, which most of the _vegueros_ have now to employ and pay, as many of them do not consider themselves sufficiently expert in the matter to classify their own tobacco. This classification and nomenclature represent exact qualities to which a relative value can be fixed, and may serve as a base for mercantile transactions.

“The manufacturer will not have to contend with bales of mixed tobacco containing all the different classes which the _vega_ may have produced; and he will find this division very convenient to determine the time when each class may be used without having any loss from finding in them leaves that are not seasoned, whilst others of the same bale, and perhaps of the same _manojo_, may have become deteriorated from having remained too long in fermentation. The manufacturer will, without any great trouble, be able to make the assortment for strong and weak _tripa_ according to the quality of _capa_ which is going to be used, a most essential point in cigar making, and thus he will be able to make cigars with all perfection. All these advantages will result from adopting the reform in the manner of sorting which we propose. And, in spite of its simplicity, it is much more positive and extensive, as it will be composed of four qualities subdivided into eleven classes. The consumer, too, will have the advantage of being able to procure cigars manufactured completely of the quality which he prefers, and the contents of each box, or each set of boxes, will be all equal both in flavour and colour, which, under the present system, it is difficult to find. The classes will be styled:—

{ 1st class Sound crown.
First quality { 2nd ” Broken ”
{ 3rd ” Stuffing ”

{ 1st class Sound seconds.
Second quality { 2nd ” Broken ”
{ 3rd ” Stuffing ”

{ 1st class Sound thirds.
Third quality { 2nd ” Broken ”
{ 3rd ” Stuffing ”

Fourth quality, 1st and 2nd Suckers and sprouts.

“It is scarcely necessary to add that, according to the preceding system of sorting, only 3 divisions, cases, or rooms, with _yaguas_, will be required for depositing the respective qualities which the workmen may be assorting, until sufficient quantity has been collected in each to commence the seasoning or painting, _betumeo_, _enmannillado_, or _engavillado_, _manojo_, and _enterciadura_.

“In all kinds of sortings, the fragments of broken leaves, too small to use for cigars, should be collected, sponged, and with them packages made of _picadura_. This should be preserved, and the following year it will be useful for making _betun_. Wash the tobacco, or rather sponge it, with a solution made from these pieces of good leaves, and not with a solution made from stalks and trash of new tobacco, as some do. The wash (_betun_) has the same effect on tobacco that yeast has on bread. It is the agent employed to produce a strong and quick fermentation, from which results that strong and agreeable aroma that may be observed in old tobacco which has been well _betumeado_ (sponged with tobacco infusion). This infusion, made with fresh tobacco, is not bad if made carefully, but we consider that made with old tobacco is the best, because it instantly imparts an agreeable odour to the leaves on which it is used; and, instead of the infusion which is generally used, it would be cleaner and better, if a strong decoction was made from _picadura_—the small pieces of leaves of good tobacco—and used after it had become cold, or on the day after the boiling is made.

“If the wash is made by infusion, at least two jugs should be used to make it in, and it should be only used on the third or fourth day, renewing it as often as it appears to pass into a state of putrid fermentation, in which state it is of no use, and on which account two deposits are necessary, so that one at least may always be in a fit state to use, whilst the other is acquiring the necessary strength and a transparent golden colour, in which state it is fit for use.

“Each tobacco leaf should be dyed separately, and not, as some do, after it has been made up into _gavillas_—small bundles tied at one end of the leaf. It is very important that all the leaves should equally receive the benefit, and this is impossible when several are tied together. The good system of dyeing is used by all practical _vegueros_; to save labour some do it otherwise, to the great injury of the aroma and quality, and no small risk of the tobacco becoming spotted, and full of holes; for tobacco invariably commences to show these spots and small holes near the heads of the _gavilla_, where the dye has not been able to penetrate owing to the manner in which the leaves are tied. Each leaf ought, therefore, to be dyed separately, as the most intelligent people do. The leaves should be placed separately in rows on a bench, having all the heads in one line; then the dye should be applied by means of a sponge, which should be soaked in the dye or infusion, and squeezed, so that a dampness only will be communicated to the leaf.

“In passing the sponge over the leaf, it should be drawn from the head or thick part near the stalk, down the large vein to the point, so that the thick vein down the centre of the leaf may receive the heaviest part of the infusion, from which the dye pushes along the transversal veins, and all parts derive benefit from it.

“After dyeing the first layer on the bench, another one is placed above this, keeping always the leaves in the same direction; and this operation is repeated, and each layer is sponged, until the pile from which they are taken is exhausted. As this new pile of dyed leaves gradually increases in height, it should be gently pressed down with the hand, and, when finished, should be covered over with green plantain leaves. This operation should be done in the morning, and by nightfall the tobacco will have acquired the necessary softness, and soaked up the infusion, so that the leaves, although very flexible, will have no signs of excess in moisture. If they have, they should be spread to dry somewhat, because, when the bundles of leaves are being tied up, they should not be excessively wet, as the result would probably be so strong a fermentation that it would degenerate into a putrid one. The leaves should have a soft silkiness, but should have no positive signs of water on them after they have been dyed.

“When the tobacco is in a good state of softness, the next operation is the ‘_cabeceo_.’ This operation consists in uniting the leaves by the heads—putting them perfectly even, and joining together a uniform number of each class. The leaves should be collected in the palm of the left hand, drawing gently the right hand over all the length of each leaf from the head to the point, and tying them at the heads with a piece of _yagua_ or vine, or, as most people do, by binding one of the leaves round the head of the bundle. This operation is generally made in the evening, and the following morning they should be placed in the bales, as it injures the tobacco to allow it to dry in _manojos_ before putting it into bales, for, if too dry, fermentation is retarded, or is incomplete in the bales.

“We have described the manner of washing or dyeing, in making the _gavillas_, and tying them in bundles as the most practical _vegueros_ do. In this part we should not, we think, advise any innovation, except that of using old seasoned tobacco instead of fresh for making the infusion, and substituting a decoction made by boiling, instead of an infusion in cold water. But we strongly advise a reform in the sorting and the classification; and a fixed number of each class of leaves should be put in each _gavilla_, as a basis from which to start all calculations for mercantile transactions. We believe, therefore, it would be convenient to fix, after the following order, the number of leaves which each head ‘gavilla’ should contain:-

{ Sound 25 leaves to each _gavilla_
First quality { Broken or torn 30 ” ”
{ For stuffing 40 ” ”

{ Sound 30 ” ”
Second quality { Broken or torn 35 ” ”
{ Stuffing 43 ” ”

{ Sound 40 ” ”
Third quality { Broken or torn 45 ” ”
{ _Desecho_ } These three classes
} may be added without
Fourth quality { Suckers } counting the
{ Sprouts } number of leaves,

but making the heads (_gavillas_) of a regular uniform size; and the _manojos_ and bales of about the same size as those of ‘sound’ and ‘broken’ of the third quality, the latter weighing 100–125 lb.

“By following strictly this method, and by establishing these quantities and qualities, as a basis for all contracts, any defects found might easily be obviated; and very exact calculations might be made of the number of cigars each bale would yield, after having examined its special condition; and its real value might be estimated either by bales or bundles, or by weight.”

_Bulking._—Bulking means placing the tobacco-leaves in heaps for the purpose of heating, in order to develop colour and flavour; this is carried out in various ways, nearly all involving great labour and risk, as in most instances tobacco loses more or less in value during the process called “curing.” The more care is taken in raising the crop, the less attention the tobacco requires in the shed. With a good kind of tobacco, grown on light, friable soil, treated as described, little care will be needed, after the leaves are dried and stripped. By the drying process, the leaves will have undergone a slow fermentation, which makes it unnecessary to watch or guide a regular fermentation afterwards, hence bulking and fermenting, as generally understood, are not required.

After being made into hands, the tobacco is put into heaps (bulked) before it again dries. Every evening, the tobacco that has been stripped during the day is bulked; but if the weather be very dry, it must be bulked as soon as a certain number of hands is ready. The heaps should be made 4–8 feet square and 4–8 feet high; all the stalks are outside, and the whole is covered by mats, &c., to check evaporation. The drier the tobacco, the larger must the heaps be made, to encourage a slight fermentation. The extent of the fermentation can be easily controlled. If the colour of the leaves is not uniform, or if it is desired to give them a browner colour, the heaps must be made large, and a somewhat moist atmosphere is required in the storing-room. This will cause fermentation to set in after a short time, and the heat to rise after some days, so much so that rebulking is required, which is done by putting the top leaves of the old heap at the bottom of the new one. Under such circumstances, the heap must be frequently examined during the few first weeks, to prevent overheating. It is advisable to rebulk the tobacco also, even when not much heated, after the first fourteen days, and again a month later, to ascertain the exact state in which it is. Sometimes the tobacco becomes mouldy; this occurs especially with tobacco which has been manured with chlorides, which cause it to become more hygroscopic than when manured otherwise. If this occurs, the mould must be brushed off, and, if necessary, the tobacco be dried. The tobacco may now remain heaped in the store-room until there is a chance for sale. It must be remembered, however, that the best time for selling varies very much. Some tobacco is fit for smoking a few weeks after drying, whereas others may burn very badly at that time, yet become a good burning article after being stored for several months.

After assorting, Perry Hull advises that the tobacco “be corded up awhile, in a dry place, that the butts may be thoroughly cured before packing in the cases. The pile is made with the butts out, and tips interlapping in the middle, at every other course, at the ends turning the butts toward the end. Get upon the pile upon the knees, take hold of the butt of a hank with one hand, drawing the leaves at the tip together with the other, and placing it upon the pile in that position, immediately putting the knee upon it. After the pile is finished, it should be covered over with boards, to keep it from drying up, and a few days before packing into the cases, should be well weighted down, which will save a great deal of pressing at that time. Such a pile should be made only about 2½–3 feet high, and then closely watched to prevent a premature sweat, which often, if the weather be mild, will take place in such a pile, which will not be sufficient to render the tobacco fit for working, but which, if not intercepted at the commencement, will be sufficient to prevent a proper sweat afterwards. Check, therefore, the first symptoms of heat in such a pile, by opening the pile, and repacking it, shaking out the hanks and giving them time to cool off.”

Bowie gives a caution that the tobacco “should not be too moist or ‘high,’ as it is termed, when put in stalk bulk, or it will get warm, the leaves stick to the stalk, get a bad smell, and change colour; besides, if left too long, it will rot. To bulk tobacco requires judgment and neatness. Two logs should be laid parallel to each other, about 30 inches apart, and the space between them filled with sticks for the purpose of keeping the tobacco from the dampness of the ground. The bundles are then taken one at a time, spread out and smoothed down, which is most conveniently done by putting it against the breast and stroking the leaves downward smooth and straight with the right hand. It is then passed, two bundles at a time, to the man bulking. He takes them and lays them down and presses them with his hands; they are laid, two at a time, in a straight line—the broad part of the bundles slightly projecting over the next two—and two rows of bundles are put in a bulk, both rows carried on together, the heads being on the outside, and the tails just lapping one over the other in regular succession. The bulk, when carried up to a convenient height, should have a few sticks laid across to keep it in place. It must often be examined, and if getting warm it ought to be immediately changed and laid down in another bulk of less height, and not pressed as it is laid down; this is called ‘wind-rowing’; being loose and open, it admits the air between the rows of bundles, hence the term. The next process in this troublesome, but beautiful crop, is to ‘condition’ it for ‘packing.’ The ‘bright,’ ‘yellow,’ and ‘second’ tobacco will condition, but most generally in such bulks as I have just described, but it is best to hang up the ‘dull’ as soon almost as stripped. If the bright or second do not dry thoroughly in the bulks, that should also be hung up in the house to become well dried. To properly hang up tobacco to condition, small-sized sticks should be procured, and each one nicely smoothed with the drawing-knife, and kept for that purpose. After it has once been perfectly dry, either hanging up or in bulks—so dry that the heads are easily knocked off, and the shoulders of the bundles crack upon pressure like pipe-stems—it should be taken down, or if in bulks, removed, the first soft, moist spell of weather, as soon as it is soft and yielding enough, as it will become too dry to handle without crumbling or breaking, and it must be put in 4 or 6 row bulks of any convenient length and height, the higher the better, laid down close, so that as little of the leaves or shoulders as possible be exposed on the outside of the bulk. When completed put sticks and logs of wood, &c., on the top so as to weigh it down. Here it will keep sweet and in nice order for packing at any time, no matter what the weather be, if it was conditioned properly, it will not change a particle while in the condition-bulk.”

_Packing._—Tobacco in America is commonly packed in barrels, the layers being at right angles to each other alternately, and the butt-ends being always towards the outside. The usual size is about 4 feet 6 inches deep, 3 feet 6 inches in diameter at one end, and 3 feet 4 inches at the other, to enable the contents to be uncovered for examination without disturbing the mass. The packing is effected under considerable hydraulic pressure. Elsewhere all kinds of packages are employed, and their weights are very various.