Chapter XVI: Part 16

N.B.—Átar is two days E. of Shingít and Ojúft, another ksar or village which is two days S.E. of Shingít, and one day S.S.W. of Átar. (These data I had not made use of in my map.)

1 day. Tozarótín, with a well or hasi.

1 short. Zeríbe, a dhaye or pond.

1 day. Áús, difficult march, high kódia.

1 day. A locality a short distance to the south of Shingít.

3 days through the Ákela, without a well; then reach Kíder Wámu, a well three days from Shingít.

1 day. Áwakan, the above-mentioned well.

1 day. Hasi il harka.

1 day. Shwékh, or Khat el Moina, on the south side of the Khat.

1 day. El Laye, a well.

½ day. Tanúshight.

1 short. Atwél and Awén Tisba.

1 day. E’ Nwalík Warzák.

½ day. Either Tejígja or Rashíd, two villages in Tagánet, the distance of both these places being the same. Tejígja is a place of considerable renown.

HH.—_From Tejígja to Jáfena or Jáfunú._

2 days. Wedán, with a large dhaye or pond.

1 short. Adírg el Mejúj.

1 day. Dhú el Rodíye, passing by Daúdad.

1 day. E’ Nugga.

½ day. Korkol, a kódia or hill at the frontier of Tezízzay, between Aúkár and El Kódia.

½ day. Gárrugát.

1 short. Agúrsh Gasámu.

1 day. Gundége nwamélen (wan mellen?) two mountains with hasián.

1 day. Kífa, a well or hasi.

1 day. Úm el Ákhseb, a dhaye or tamurt, surrounded by baobab trees.

1 day. Samba-sandíggi, a well, with plenty of sgillem (the dúm-bush) and deléb palms.

1 day. Isíl, a dhaye.

1 day. Gár-allah, a large dhaye. The district Asába is south from here.

1 day. Erísh.

1 day. Elgílte el Khaddra, a large dhaye or pond full of fish.

1 day. Encamp in the open country.

1 day. Jáfena or Jáfunu, or rather Gúghi or Gúri, the capital of that province, which is four or five days south of Bowár or ʿAkerút, a well in Mesíla.

II.—_Route from Kasr el Barka. — Bú-télimít._

Kasr el Barka is one short day south-west from Rashíd.

1st day. Gébbu, a tamurt or dhaye, where sába or dhurra and wheat is cultivated by the Welád Sídi Haiballa, who usually encamp here.

2nd. Tisígi, a short well at the foot of a kódia, from whence the passes crossing the range of sandhills towards the south are seen.

3rd. El Júwelát e’ Twáma, two of these passes, either of which you may choose.

4th. Úm e’ dér, a hasi or well belonging to the district Agán.[77]

5th. El ʿAíní, a hasi or well.

6th. Titárikt or Ásabay, a well about thirty-five fathoms in depth, and the most eastern of “El Ábiár,” or the deep wells, which have given their name to the whole district called “El Ábiár.”

Besides the wells here mentioned, the most famous wells of “El Ábiár” are the following, all lying west of Aftót:—Ár-éddeke, Bú-Telehíye, Rézelán, Bír el Barka, Dukhn, Bú-Tweríge, Yáre, Bú-Tumbúski. Further to the north-west from Aftót, and at the distance of about two days north from Bú-Tweríge, is a famous well called Bú-télimít, but not to be confounded with the well of the same name mentioned hereafter. In the district of Aftót there are only shallow wells.

7th. El Wastha, a deep well, dug in stony ground.

8th. Twersát, a group of shallow wells.

9th. A well, being the property of a man called E’ Sheikh el Kádhi, with an encampment of the Ijéjebó.

10th. Tin-dámmer Abél, a well.

11th. Bú-télimít, a large well or hasi near the camping grounds of the Brákena, much frequented. From here Bot-hadíye is said to be only one day and a half distant. If that is the case, the latter must be identical with some place in the “Ile de Morfil.”

KK.—_Route from Kasr el Barka to Kahaide._

2nd day. Tésigí, the locality mentioned above.

3rd. Létfatár, a large tamurt or pond.

4th (long), Agáyar, a well or hasi.

5th. Gímí, a hasi, belonging, like the foregoing one, to the district Aftót.

6th. Keréni, a hasi.

7th. El Wád, a valley without water.

8th. El Árruwa, a hasi.

9th. Encamp in the wilderness without water.

10th. Shemmáma, a name which is given by the Arabs to the whole district along the north side of the Senegal. You arrive at the river opposite two villages called (by the Arabs) Gúru ’l hajar. It seems not to be identical with the Gúri ’l haire of the Fúlbe, as that is one short day from Bakel, while our route evidently follows a far more westerly course, even west of the one which I am about to give.

LL.—_Route from Kahaide to the frontier of Tagánet, direction N.N.E.,
according to Háj Íbrahím from Kahaide._

1st day. Énjekúdi, or Tisílit Táleb Mahmúd, a well with an encampment of Arabs, called collectively by my informant, Shénagít, and Limtúna.

2nd. Monge, a village of the Limtúna, consisting of tents made of camels’ hair.

3rd. Moyet, another village of the Limtúna, or rather two sections of this once powerful but now degraded Berber tribe, the Dagebámbera (this is probably not their proper name), and the Welád e’ Shefága.

4th. Basengíddi, a village inhabited by the Limtúna, the Twabér (a section of the former), El Hejáj, the Rehála, El Héba, and the Welád ʿAbd-Allah. The country rather hilly.

5th. Wanja, or Jenúr, as you choose, both of them being settlements of Arabs and close to each other. Here live the Tagát, the Idáw el Hassan, the Welád Biyéri, and the Jéjeba; the food of these people consisting of sour milk, dhurra, and fruits. From this spot you obtain a view of the mountains of Tagánet and Asába.

6th. Marde, a well with an encampment of the same tribes as Wanja. The country is hilly and rich in herbage, the mountains or vales being adorned with plenty of trees.

7th. Téri, a pool of stagnant water in the rainy season, while during the dry season only a well is to be found here. The country rather hilly.

8th. Ásherám, a settlement of different tribes. The mountains of Tagánet seem to be quite near.

9th. Tisílit Akerárer, a wádí in a mountainous tract with scattered groups of tents inhabited by Arabs.

10th. Dwenki, a mountain with a pool of stagnant water at its foot, but only in the rainy season; during the dry season only a well is found.

11th. Yogbáshi, a mountain with temporary inhabitants. Few trees.

12th. Nufni, a mountain pass, “the entrance or gate of Tagánet,” the mountains being very high.

From Nufni to Kasr el Barka is a march of two days.

MM.—_Route from Bakel to the frontier of Tagánet by way of Asába._

1st day. Samba-rainji, a considerable place inhabited by Aswánek, and situated in a level tract enclosed between the foot of the mountains and the river.

2nd. Hasi Weled ʿAlí Bába, a well lying in the vale or depression enclosed between the two mountain ranges, along which your road winds. Kómandó, a considerable Aswánek village lies on a more easterly road.

3rd. Hasi Shagár, another well with a camp of Arabs in the dry season.

4th. Tektáke, as the place is called by the Arabs, or Bú-túmke, as it is called by the Aswánek and Fullán or Fúlbe, the population consisting chiefly of Aswánek. The village lies in the midst of the mountains; the houses are built of clay, and a few gardens are cultivated in the neighbourhood, for although there is no running stream, water is said to be found at the depth of only one foot under ground, and the mountains or “gidé,” as they are called in Aswánek, are full of trees. The country nominally under the dominion of Fúta.

5th. Jibáli, or, as the name is pronounced by the Arabs, Jubélli, a village situated in the midst of the mountains, at times inhabited, at others deserted. On pursuing your road you cross a mountain ridge, and then wind along a valley. The mountains contain excellent rock for grindstones shaped in quadrangular forms, and like the stone found in the mountains near Mekka.

6th. Búnga, an Aswánek village surrounded by steep rocks; some gardens are cultivated.

7th. Moila, an Aswánek village. The road keeps always in the mountainous tract.

8th. Samma, an Aswánek village.

9th. Tattopútti, formerly a village, but at present deserted.

10th. Wákuré, as it is called by the Fullán, or Woló by the natives, a large place situated in a deep valley or irregular vale, the rivulet Gallúla flowing at no great distance towards the W. from the place.

11th. Babbu, a village in a mountainous tract.

12th. Kachukoróne, another village.

13th. Gelléil.

14th. Garáf Bafál, situated in the midst of the mountains, and being the temporary abode of different wandering tribes.

15th. Fúmo-báche, another settlement of that kind.

16th. Fúmo-láwel, the same.

17th. Nebék, a place of the same nature; mountainous tract continues.

18th. Áwenet Ár, the beginning of Tagánet, the south-eastern corner of which is here hemmed in by the mountains of Asába.

Asába, according to this informant, is a broad mountain range, diverging as a northern branch from the main range, the general direction of which is towards Bundu, from which country it is separated by the river. The Fúlbe call this mountainous tract “Hairi-n-gar,” and the Aswánek call it Gidé.

NN.—_Route from Hamda-Alláhi, the present capital of Másina, to Meshíla, and thence to Kahaide, according to Háj Íbrahím; route rather winding, and to be controlled by other routes which I have already given._

1st day. Kunna (see above), a small town, but an important market place, situated originally on the western bank of the máyo balléo, on an island in the Dhiúliba, enclosed by the máyo balléo, “the blue river,” and the máyo dhannéo, or “the white river,” but at present built on the eastern shore of the máyo balléo. What is very remarkable, it is said to be inhabited by Songhay. A short march of three hours.

2nd. Núkuma, a place or district situated on the island or “rúde,” enclosed by the two branches of the river. Here in the beginning of his career resided Mohammed Lebbo. There seem to be several hamlets, one of which is called Sébbera.

3rd. Tummay, still on the island or rúde.

4th. Sáre-dína, a large place, and evidently one of the first towns converted to Islám in these regions, situated on the western bank of the máyo dhannéo, which you cross here, at half a day’s distance E.N.E. of the ancient town Zágha or Jáka. Inhabitants Songhay.

5th. Tógoró, a group of villages or hamlets, inhabited by the Fullán conquerors. In Tógoró the road divides, one branch leading N.E. in two short days to Tenéngu, the original capital of Másina, passing by Tumúra, a large district inhabited by Fúlbe.[78]

6th. Somógirí, a considerable place inhabited by Bámbara of the country.

7th. Diggíseré, an important Bámbara town, at some miles distance S.W. from Tenéngu, the road leading to which place, and from thence to Yá- saláme, whither a person may also proceed from Diggíseré (see above), informant has left on his right. Country open, adorned with _zizyphus_.

8th. Fetokóle, a small place. The country rich in trees, the principal produce consisting in rice and cotton.

9th. Káre, a Bámbara town, governed by an officer of the name of Búgoní. The country hereabouts rich in cattle and camels, but the wells are said to have an enormous depth, according to informant not less than sixty fathoms. Cotton strips are the standard currency of the market.

14th. Sókoló, a town inhabited by Bámbara people, but belonging to Másina. Between the two stations you traverse for five days an open country inhabited by Arab tribes, as the Welád Sʿaíd, the Welád ʿAlúsh and the Gelágema, and rich in elephants, giraffes, and buffaloes, abundance of water being found in stagnant pools. On the second day of this march you leave the town of Kála on your left.

19th. Aláso or Alássa, a place belonging to Bághena, and inhabited by the Welád ʿOmrán. The country which you traverse is thickly covered with trees, and is the abode of the Nimádi, a wild set of people, who are stated by my informant to possess nothing but dogs, with which they hunt the large antelope called “bakr el wáhesh” by the Arabs. (The name “Nimádi,” is probably not the real name of these people.) You sleep four nights in the open country.

22nd. Kabúde, a well with temporary settlers. Pass two nights in the open country without a dwelling.

26th. Mú-sáweli, a considerable place of Bághena. You pass on your march several other places, the names of which informant does not remember.

27th. Dúguní, a middle-sized town.

28th. Debámpa, a large town of Bághena. All the houses are built of clay.

29th. Toróngu, another place of importance.

30th. Tíndi, a small town about seven days N.W. from Kolí, another town of Bághena. Tíndi is inhabited by Aswánek or Swanínki.

31st. Khat e’ dem, a temporary dwelling-place of Arabs belonging to the tribes of the Welád Mohammed, the Funti, and the Henún, with the Sheikh Mohammed Fádhel, son of the protector Mukhtár. All the dwellings consist of tents of camels’ hair. Khat e’ dem forms the beginning of the district called El Hódh.

33rd. Tokko, a large pool of stagnant water, round which there is an encampment of Arabs.

35th. Derís, a dwelling-place of the “White Arabs,” as my informant calls them. Many tribes are wandering hereabouts; but almost all the towns are at present in the hands of the Fúlbe or Fullán. Nʿamá, the small town mentioned above as having been built by the Shurfa, is three days E. a little N. from Derís.

37th. Nwal, a well with an encampment of Arabs.

42nd. Tádirt, a well with tents of the same.

47th. Líbe, a well of the same character.

50th. Mesíla, a spring of running water at the foot of the Kódia which surrounds El Hódh. The water of Mesíla is said to run towards the south.

N.B. It must be borne in mind in laying down this route that my informant, a Púllo, wished to avoid the seats of the Welád Mebárek, and therefore followed in his generally northerly direction a very roundabout way.

56th. Afúlle, or rather an open Arab village in the district so named, the mountainous country having been entered on the fifty-second day. Afúlle borders on Kaarta, and its eastern part is inhabited by Bámbara, but the northern portion is inhabited by the following Arab tribes: the Fáta, the Welád e’ Násr, the Elkwézi, or Lighwézi, the Askír, the Welád Bóde, and by two tribes of Zuwaye or Merábetín, viz. the Tenwaijió and the Lághelél. Some of the divisions of these tribes are settled in the mountains, while others live in the plain called El Khénashísh, rich in pasture-grounds, between which and the mountains there is a small town called Túgguba.

59th. Tiñírgi, a well with Arab settlers. Country mountainous.

62nd. Úmmat el adhám, a well. The last three days no water is found along the road, while in general, even in the tract intervening between two stations marked by my informant, watering-places are occasionally met with.

67th. Kawál, a lively spring of water. Country mountainous.

73rd. Túgguba, an open village inhabited by Arabs. Many springs in the mountains.

76th. Waya, another Arab village.

78th. Meshíla, called by my informant “rás el Fúta,” as the beginning of Fúta (at least in former times).

I now give the route from Meshíla to Kahaide:—

1st day. Samóga, a mountain belonging to the mountainous district Asába.

2nd. Wákoré, a village inhabited by Aswánek, but subjected to Fúta as well as to the Zenágha Arabs, to whom they pay tribute.

3rd. Galúla, a village inhabited by Aswánek, and dependent upon Wákoré. It is situated at the foot of a mountain, from the top of which a brook of living water rushes down. This watercourse is called Galúla like the village, and is said to be full of fish.

4th. Dé il Kurbán, an Arab settlement on a wádí, with running water during the rainy season, which is said to flow into the Senegal. Country not under cultivation.

5th. Jumlaníye, another dwelling-place of the Zenágha on the same wádi.

6th. Wau Sámberlám, a high mountain ridge extending towards Bundu.

7th. Gílte, another locality in the same ridge. The country not under cultivation, and only temporarily inhabited after the rains.

8th. Tashót, a wádí with water in the rainy season. No cultivation.

9th. Bú-ʿAmúd, an open tract of country, the pasture-grounds for the cattle of the Fullán.

10th. Tara-múl, a locality on the same wádí. The country full of the large species of antelopes, giraffes, elephants, and buffaloes, and richly clad with large trees.

11th. Shillíyul, the same wádí richly adorned with trees. The country nearly level, only broken by a few hills. Abundance of cattle.

12th. Sugurére, a Fullán village. Country hilly.

13th. Bailabúbi, on the same wádí. The country hilly; nothing but pasture-grounds.

14th. Píttangál, another settlement of Fullán shepherds.

15th. Bogilchéle, a place of the same description. At this point the Gurgul balléo, or black Gurgul, a small water course coming from the N.E. in the direction of Gallúla, joins the Gurgul dhannéo, running from Akerére in Tagánet, the two forming henceforward a considerable watercourse, at least during the rainy season. According to this informant, the small craft from Kahaide can navigate this creek, but of such a communication the French accounts of the Senegal give no indication.

16th. Maktachúchi, or, as the spot is called in the Fulfúlde language, Lumbírde-chútinkóbe, a large pool of stagnant water with river horses, and surrounded by fine pasture-grounds. A section of the Limtúna are said to cultivate this ground.

17th. Rak Hilhébe, the plain of Hilhébe; property of the Brákena.

18th. Kerfát, the fields of Kahaide.

19th. Kahaide, on the W. side of a great bend of the Senegal. On your road you pass the large village Jéri-lúmburí.

I will here add a list of the chief divisions of Fúta, including the Wolof country, such as Íbrahím communicated them to me: Lóre, Damga, Ferló, Nange-hóre, the centre of Fúta, Toró, Walbrek, Ndér, Úl, Niyán, Bachár, Kimínta, Ballindúngu Sálu, Jolóf, Kayór.

OO.—_From Meshíla to Bakel. Very short marches._

1st day. Samba-sandíggi, a wádí in the wilderness with Arab settlers.

2nd. Dáwodá, a wádí.

3rd. Nakhéle, settlement of Sídi Makhmúd of the Zenágha.

4th. Dundumúlli; few settlers.

5th. Sélefél, village of Fúlbe.

6th. Tektáket, all along the valley Mesíla, or Meshíla, which runs to the Senegal.

7th. Yóra, village or town of Fúlbe, Aswánek, and Arabs, dwelling together.

8th. Abólli, a hamlet of Arabs, Welád Wési, and Fullán Rungábe, under the chiefs ʿOmár Weled Bú-Séfi. Wádi Mangol. Few mountains.

9th. Swéna, a hamlet of Fúlbe with a few Arabs.

10th. Nahál; one day E. of the town Butti.

11th. Báyajám, a small hamlet of Fúlbe Rungábe and Hel Módin Alla.

12th. Tíshi, small hamlet.

13th. Melge, large village inhabited by Fúlbe and Hel Módin Alla.

14th. Village of Chermo-Makkam, who died some time before, when his son Baidal Chermo succeeded him.

15th. Dár Saláme, now Aswánek, formerly Hel Módin Alla.

16th. Kídibíllo, small hamlet. Aswánek.

17th. Nénechó. Aswánek.

18th. Waigílle, a middle-sized place of Aswánek. Country level, small hills, many trees, especially the kuddi. Always along the valley Mangol or Mesíla.

19th. Kábu, large place of Aswánek, on the point where the Mesíla joins the Senegal.

20th. Láni, considerable place of Aswánek, on the S. side of the river which you cross.

21st. Kotéra, a village of Aswánek, close to Senegal.

22nd. Gúchubel (Gútubé of the French), the point where the Falémé joins the Senegal. On the opposite side lies Yogúnturó.

23rd. Arúndu, a village of Aswánek, having crossed the Falémé.

24th. Yáferé, on the Senegal.

25th. Golme, Aswánek under Bundu.

26th. Guri ’l haire, Aswánek.

27th. Bakel.

Even beyond Bakel, towards Kahaide, the seats of the Aswánek, Cheddo, or Wákoré extend as far as the isolated mountain Waunde, which lies on the N.E. shore, and that is evidently the reason of this tract on the N. bank of the Senegal being called Gángara, or Wángara, the country of the Wákoré.

N.B. The routes from Wadán and Íjil to Sákiet el Hamrah, of which I have collected an itinerary, I refrain from communicating, as they have been in some measure superseded by Panet’s route. (Revue Coloniale, 1851.)

[Footnote 60: Caillié’s Travels to Timbuctoo, vol. ii. p. 99, et seq. According to my information, Árawán seems to lie from Timbúktu about 15° W. from N.]

[Footnote 61: No merchant from the north can pass Bú-Jebéha, and certainly not Árawán, unless he be escorted by some well-known person belonging to the tribe of the Tademékket.]

[Footnote 62: The position which I have assigned to these places in the map which I sent home from Timbúktu, is slightly erroneous.]

[Footnote 63: De Barros, l. iii. c. viii. p. 220, Genná.—“Concorriam a ella os póvos que lhe sao mais vizinhos: assi com os Caragolees, Fullos, Jalofos, Azaneges, _Brabaxijs_, Tigurarijs, Luddayas.” See the chronological tables at the end of the preceding vol., p. 604.]

[Footnote 64: I have not been able to make even a short vocabulary of the idiom of these people. I only succeeded in making out two terms which they use, “úmbay” (“how are you?”) and “éna” (“welcome”).]

[Footnote 65: From Dire, down the river towards Timbúktu, my informant indicated several places which neither I myself nor Caillié have mentioned on our passage down the river: _Búram_, a large village (Kóra, Danga), Semsáro (Koiretágo), Lenga, all on the south side; Segalíye, on the north side of the river; an ádabay, or hamlet, belonging to Búram, Éluwa, on an island; Hendibángo.]

[Footnote 66: Edinburgh Philological Journal, vol. iv. p. 35, et seq. There is no such district hereabouts as “El Sharray;” but I have not the slightest doubt that this name is nothing but a corruption of the term “e’ sherk,” with which the Moors of that region indicate the south. There are some inaccuracies in Scott’s account which might cause suspicion of his sincerity; and among these is the circumstance, that he mentions as living on the lake the Moorish tribes of the Érgebát and Sekarna, both of which live in the northern districts. But it is very remarkable that he should call that tomb by the name of “Saídna Mohammed.”]

[Footnote 67: I here add a short itinerary from Yówaru to Yá-saláme:—

1st day. Hasi Jollúb, with a settlement of Zuwaye Sombúnne.

2nd. A well.

3rd. Yá-saláme, a place of about the same size as Yówaru, on a backwater at a considerable distance from the chief river. From Basikúnnu to Yá- saláme, four days.]

[Footnote 68: On the south-eastern branch up to Jenni or Jenne (this is the Aswánek form), or Zenne (Zinne as the Songhay call it), or Jinne (the Bámbara form), lie the following towns and villages:—Bólay, a ksar or koira, Sildoy, Konne, Kóme, Isáka, or Móbti, Kúna, Sofára, Zinne.—Sofára, which lies halfway between Hamda-Alláhi and Jenni or Zinne, has a market every Wednesday and Thursday. The eastern side of Sofára is skirted by a small branch or creek of the Niger called Golónno, and on the eastern bank of the latter lies a village called Góñima.]

[Footnote 69: These particulars I obtained after having finished my manuscript map in Timbúktu.]

[Footnote 70: El Bekrí, p. 160.]

[Footnote 71: I here cannot omit to express my admiration of Mr. Cooley’s critical judgment, who, from the incomplete materials which he at the time possessed, arrived at the same conclusion in his researches on the Negroland of the Arabs. See especially p. 43.]

[Footnote 72: Journal of Leipsic Oriental Society, vol. ix. p. 527.]

[Footnote 73: Raffenel’s Second Voyage, vol. i. p. 223. seq.]

[Footnote 74: It would seem, from many indications, that this informant describes the country in the more flourishing state which it enjoyed some years previously to my visit to Negroland.]

[Footnote 75: Venture, Vocabulaire Berbère, ed. Jaubert, Appendix, p. 225.]

[Footnote 76: N.B. This itinerary was not made use of for the map of the western part of the desert, which I sent home from Timbúktu.]

[Footnote 77: On my MS. map I placed Agán wrong, giving it an intermediate position between Aftót and Asába.]

[Footnote 78: An interesting account of this district is given in Hodgson’s “Notes on North Africa,” p. 70, from the information of a slave in the United States.]

APPENDIX II.

LIST OF THE ARAB OR MOORISH TRIBES SCATTERED OVER THE WESTERN PART OF
THE DESERT, ACCORDING TO THE DISTRICTS OR NATURAL DIVISIONS OF THE
DESERT IN WHICH THEY ARE SETTLED.

The original inhabitants of these regions, at least since the middle of the eighth century of our era, were the Berbers, especially the Zenágha, or Senhája; but these tribes, since the end of the fifteenth century, it would seem, have been pushed back, and partly conquered by the Arab tribes to the south of Morocco and Algeria, who either intermingled with them or reduced them to a degraded position. Thus there are especially four classes of tribes,—the free warlike tribes, ʿAráb, or Harár; the Zuwaye, or peaceable tribes; the Khóddemán, or Lahme, identical in the south-western quarter with the name Zenágha, the degraded tribes; and the Hárratín, or the mixed stock. The characteristic feature of these Moorish tribes is the guffa, or full tuft of hair; that of the Zenágha the peculiar fashion of wearing the hair called gatáya, as they cut the hair on both sides of the head, and leave nothing but a crest on the crown, from whence a single tress hangs down sometimes to their very feet, or they tie the ends round their waist.

The supposed ancestor of the Moorish tribes is Odé ben Hassan ben Ákil, of the tribe of the Rátafán, who is supposed to have come from Egypt.

I.—ARAB TRIBES IN BÁGHENA.

The Welád Mebárek (sing. Mebárki), divided into the following sections:—

Áhel ʿOmár Welád ʿAlí.

Áhel Hennúm (e’ Shiúkh).

Fáta, separated into the following divisions:—

Welád Monún.

Welád Dokhanán.

Áhel Bú Séf.

Fúnti, separated into the following divisions:—

Welád Hammu el kohol.

Áhel Hammu el biadh.

Áhel Múmmu.

Áhel Sídi Íbrahím.

Welád Zenághi.

Áhel ʿOmár Shemáti.

The following tribes are in a state of dependence upon them, or are, as it is called, their lahme, or their khóddemán:—

Idábuk.

Ifoléden.

Áhel ʿAbd el Wáhed.

El Hárratín (no proper name).

El Mehájeríyín, these only partly degraded.

Yadás.

Welád el ʿAlía,

Áhel Áhmed Hennún,

whose khóddemán are the following tribes:—

El Rowasíl.

Welád Sálem.

Basim.

Íshalán.

Welád Bílle, the brethren of the Welád Bílle in Tishít, formerly Arabs
(that is to say), free independent Arabs, but at present khóddemán,
paying, however, only the medáriye, and not the keráma.

El ʿAbedát.

Áhel Udéka.

Next to the large group of the Welád Mebárek, are,—

The Welád Mazúk, living in the ksúr together with the Welád ʿOmár.

Then the Érmetát and the Náj; while in a degraded state are—

El Shébahín, and

El Habásha.

This is the place to mention a particular group or confederation of warlike tribes called “El Imgháfera,” or Megháfera, and consisting of the

Welád el ʿAlía.

Fáta.

ʿAbedát.

Welád Mazúk.

Áhel e’ Zenághi.

Áhel ʿOmár Shemáti.

I _a._—ZUWAYE, OR MERÁBETÍN, IN BÁGHENA.

The Teghdáust, a mixed tribe, but considered as Arabs:—

The Edésan.

Gelágema.

Idú Belál in Bághena, as well as in El Hódh.

Tafulálet, said to have nothing in common with Tafilélet.

Gesíma, living partly in Bághena, partly in El Hódh, and divided into the following sections:—

Welád Táleb.

Idáw-ʿEsh.

Welád ʿAbd el Melek.

Ténagít.

El Arusíyín, a tribe very powerful in ancient times, to whom belonged
Shenán el Arúsi, the famous despot of Waláta and Tezúght.

E’ Nwazír.

Áhel Táleb Mohammed.

Tenwaijío, who collect the gum and bring it to the European settlements, separated into the following divisions:—

Áhel Yíntit.

Ijáj Búrke.

Áhel Bábá.

Áhel Íbrahím e’ Shiúkh, held in great veneration.

These four divisions live in Bághena, while the two following are scattered over the district called Ergébe, where the Tenwaijío are very numerous:—

Welád Delém ma intis (_sic._).

Welád Bú Mohammed.

Zemárik, separated into numerous divisions:—

Welád Músa.

El Horsh.

El Hárebát.

Jewaule.

El Mekhainze.

Ardél.

Welád Shéfu.

El Áthamín.

Welád ʿAleyát.

Áhel Dombi.

Áhel ʿAbd; these the Shiúkh.

Áhel e’ Shegér.

Welád e’ Dhíb.

E’ Zemárik (properly so called) very numerous.

Between Bághena and Tagánet live the Welád Lighwézi, the relatives, but likewise the enemies, of the Welád Mebárek.

II.—MOORISH TRIBES IN EL HÓDH.

El Hódh, is a large and extensive district, which has received this name, “the basin,” from the Arabs, on account of its being surrounded by a range of rocky hills, “el Kódia,” at the western foot of the eastern extremity of which lies Waláta, and near its southern foot Tishít, both of which belong to El Hódh. The N.E. part of this district, which some centuries ago was densely covered with small towns and villages, stretching from half a day S. from Waláta, to a distance of about three days, and being enclosed on the W. and E. by “ellib,” or light sandhills, is called _Árik_, and is rich in wells, among which the following are the best known:—El Kedáye, Unkúsa, Bú-il-gedúr, Nejám, Áwe-tofén, El Imbediyát, El Mebdúya, Bú-ʿAsh, Rájat, Teshimmámet, Tekiffí, Nwaiyár, Tanwallít, and not far from it, Aréngis el tellíye, and Aréngis el giblíye, Tunbuske, N. from the large well Nwál, mentioned above, El Beddʿa Ummi e’ Dúggemán, &c.

From Árik, S.W. as far as Mesíla, extends the district called _Ajaúmera_, to which belongs the famous well El Úggela, called “surret el Hódh,” on account of its being at an equal distance—viz. five days—from Tishít, Waláta, Tagánet, and Bághena. Besides these, some of the most famous wells of this district are Ajwér, almost at its northern extremity, Fógis, Bú-Derge, Bír el Hawáshar, Ajósh, Gunnëu, El Beʿadh, these latter near Ergébe. The N. border of El Hódh, stretching along the base of the kódia between Waláta and Tishít, is called _El Batn_. There are besides several districts in El Hódh called Aukár, a Berber name identical with Ákela, and meaning a waterless district, consisting of isolated sandhills. One Aukár, perhaps that meant by El Bekrí in his description of Ghánata, lies a short distance west from Waláta, near Tezúght; another district of this name lies between Tishít and Mesíla, to the north of Ajaúmera. I now proceed to enumerate the tribes settled in El Hódh.

The Ágelál, in several sections, viz.:—

Welád Áhmed, subdivided into the following divisions or “lefkhát”:—

Áhel Táleb Jiddu.

Áhel Khalífa.

Áhel Áhmed e’ Táleb.

Áhel Táleb Sídi Áhmed.

Wed (_sic._) Yebúi.

{ El Kóbetát.
{
{ Áhel Malúm.
Welád Sídi {
{ Áhel Ismáʿaíl, the Soltana.
{
{ El Ámera.

Welád Músa, subdivided as follows:—

Welád Háj ʿAbd e’ Rahmán.

Welád Háj el Amín.

Welád Músa, properly so called.

Welád Melek, subdivided:—

Áhel ʿAbd-Alláhi Weled Táleb Íbrahím.

Áhel Háj Áhmedu.

Áhel Boghádíje.

The Welád Mohammed of Waláta, in several sections, of whom a great part originates from Tishít, while the sheikh family belongs originally to the Bidúkel. Their present chief is ʿAlí Weled Nawári el Kuntawi, whose mother is the daughter of the sheikh of the Legás.

Áhel Tíki.

Welád Legás e’ Shiúkh.

Lemwalísh.

Welád e’ dhíb.

Targálet.

Derágela, belonging originally to the Brákena.

Welád el Mojúr.

Welád el horma.

Sekákena.

Áhel e’ Táleb Mustuf, a family of “tolbá.”

Íde Músa.

Welád Aili.

Welád Alú.

Welád Sékie.

Lúkarát.

The Welád e’ Násir, very powerful, and divided into the following sections:—

Welád ʿAbd el Kerím Weled Mohammed el Mʿatúk, with Bakr Weled Senébe as their chief.

Welád Masʿaúd Weled Mʿatúk, subdivided:—

El Áyasát.

El Íkemámera.

Berársha.

Ghéraber.

Áhel Músa, the Shiúkh, with the powerful chief ʿOthmán el Habíb.

Welád Yáhia Weled Mʿatúk.

Welád Mohammed Weled Mʿatúk.

The Jʿafera, the “jim” pronounced like the French _j_ in _jour_.

The ʿAtarís, here and in Bághena.

The Íjumán, divided into several sections, of which I only learnt the names of three:—

Íjumán el ʿArab.

Íjumán e’ tolbu.

Áhel Mohammed.

The Méshedúf, not independent, and, as it seems, of almost pure Berber origin, and a section of the Limtúna, being, most probably, identical with the Masúfa, a Berber tribe so often mentioned by the Arab writers, such as El Bekrí, Ébn Batúta, &c., as settled between Síjílmésa and Timbúktu. They are divided into several sections:—

Lahmennád.

Welád Mahám.

Ujenábje, and others, as the Welád Yoʿaza.

The Lághallál, a considerable tribe, divided into five khomáis.

III.—MOORISH TRIBES IN TAGÁNET.

Tagánet is a large and well-favoured district, bordering towards the E. and S.E. on El Hódh, or rather the kódia encircling and forming El Hódh; towards the S.W., where there is a considerable group of mountains bordering on Aftót, by which it is separated from Fúta, and towards the W., or W.N.W., separated from Áderár by ranges of hills running parallel to each other, called “e’ dhelóa,” or “the ribs.” Tagánet—evidently a Berber name, contrasting as a correlative with the name Ágan—is divided by nature into two distinct regions, viz. Tagánet el káhela, or Black Tagánet, comprehending the southern part of it, and consisting of fertile valleys, full of palm-trees, nebek, &c., excellent for the breeding of cattle and sheep, but infested by numbers of lions and elephants, while it is fit for the camel only in the dry season; and Tagánet el bédha, White Tagánet, called in Azéríye, or the language of Tishít, “Gér e’ kúlle,” consisting of white desert sand, with excellent food for the camel, and with plantations of palm-trees in a few favoured spots, which contain the villages, or ksúr.

Of these there are three:—

Tejígja, four days W.N.W. from Tishít, inhabited by the Idáw ʿAlí and
the Ghálli.

Rashíd, one day from Tejígja, W.N.W., in the possession of the Kunta.

Kasr el Barka, the most considerable of the three, two days W.S.W.
from Tejígja, and three days from the mountain-pass Nufni, which gives
access to it by way of Aftót, likewise inhabited by the Kunta, who are
the travelling merchants of this part of the desert, and supply
Shinghít, and all those quarters.

Besides these three ksúr, there is, at the distance of one day from Tejígja, and three days from Tishít, another plantation of date-trees, but without a ksar, called El Gobbu, or El Kubba, from the sanctuary of a Weli of the name of ʿAbd-Allah, and belonging to the Idáw ʿAlí.

As for the Arab tribes not settled in the ksúr, but wandering about in Tagánet, there are first to mention:—

The Zenágha, or Senhája, or Idáw-ʿAísh, a mixed Berber tribe, who form
a conspicuous group in the history of this part of Africa, and have
been the principal actors also in the destruction of the empire of the
Rumá or Ermá. They are at present divided into several sections, all
called after the sons and grandsons of Mohammed Shén, a fanatic man,
who arose among this tribe a little more than a century ago, and
usurped the chieftainship. His eldest son Mohammed, who succeeded him,
left at his death the office of chief vacant, when there arose a
sanguinary civil war between his brother Mukhtár, whose partisans were
called Sheratít, and his eldest son, Swéd Áhmed, and his party, who
were called Abakák, from the red fruits of the talha, on which they
were obliged to subsist. The latter having at length gained the upper
hand, killed all his uncles, and was succeeded after his death by his
son Bakr, who is ruling at the present time. The chief of the Sheratít
is E’ Rasúl Weled ʿAlí Weled Mohammed Shén.

Hel ʿOmár Weled Mohammed Shén, the Soltana kabíla of the Zenágha,
subdivided as follows:—

Hel ʿAlí Bábá Weled ʿOmár.

Bú-Bakr Weled ʿOmár.

Rasúl Weled ʿOmár.

Hel ʿAlí Weled Mohammed Shén.

Áhel Swéd; this is the strongest of the divisions of the Zenágha.

Áhel Resúl Weled Alimbugga.

Hel Bakr Weled Mohammed Shén.

Áhel Resúl Weled Mohammed Shén.

Besides these, there are also the sons of Mohammed e’ Sghír, viz.:—

Mohammed,

Mukhtár,

Bú-Séf,

ʿAlí,

Sídi el Amín,

Hennún,

who have given their names to various sections of the great tribe of the Zenágha. In consequence of their intestine feuds, however, this tribe has sunk from the first rank which they occupied amongst all the Arab tribes; for, though decidedly of Berber origin, they are yet considered as Arabs, owing to the tongue which they now speak.

The Kunta, part of this widely scattered tribe, distinguished by their learning and their sanctity, and divided, as far as they live in Tagánet, into the following sections:—

Welád Bú-Séf, the most warlike tribe of the Kunta.

Welád Sídi Bú-Bakr.

Welád Sídi Haiballa (properly Habíb-Alláhi), subdivided:—

El Nogúdh.

Welád el Bah.

Érkabát, these latter being probably the tribe found, according to
Scott’s statement, not far from the N.W. shores of Lake Débu, and
who cannot be the Érgebát, as Mr. Cooley suspects, who never leave
their homes in El Gáda. Else Scott never saw that lake.

Welád Sídi Wáfi, subdivided as follows:—

Welád Sídi Bú-Bakr el káhel.

Welád Sídi Bú-Bakr el bédh.

IV.—MOORISH TRIBES IN ÁDERÉR.

Áderér is a rather elevated district, composed of sandhills grouped round a considerable range of hills, as its name, meaning the mountain range, indicates, which is the same as that of the district lying between Ázawád and Áír, being distinguished from it only by a slight difference in the pronunciation. It is encircled towards the north by the awful zone of immense sandhills, called “Maghtér,” and towards the south by another similar, but less sterile girdle, called “Warán,” both these districts joining towards the east of Áderér, at a point called “El Gedám,” at the distance of six days from Wadán, in going from east to west:—Metweshtíye, first day; Máderás hasi, second; Amasít, third; Zwíri wén Zwemra, fourth; Wadán, sixth day, having passed a good many wells. Between Áderér and El Hódh, and separated from that district of El Hódh which is called El Batn, by a range of hills to the north of Tagánet, there is a very extensive valley, or valley-plain, called Khat e’ dem, running, as it seems, about east and west, along the northern foot of the ridge of Áderér, at the south foot of which lies El Hódh, with abundance of wells, and even a couple of ksúr, or perpetually inhabited villages. The following is a list of a few of these localities:—

Mochénge, shallow well, with a ksar belonging to the Gesíma. Bélle, well, and ksar inhabited by Bámbara (Aswánek?). These on the south side of the Khat, where there are a great number of shallow but full wells, of which the group called Khat el Moina is one of the most considerable. In the middle course of the Khat there is Ófaní, a large dhaye, or tank; Fetéle, Kébi, Zorúgo, all tanks; but the largest of these tanks is Úm el Medék, which lies on the road from the celebrated Bír Nwál to Wadán, then Twéshtair and El Bahéra, also large tanks; on the west side of the Khat there is the large well Tishti. The breadth of this celebrated valley, with whose excellency the wandering Arab is as much enchanted as a European is with the most romantic spots of Switzerland and Italy, is indicated by the distance of three days between the well Tálemist and the famous well Bú-Sefíye, on the road from Tishít to Wadán.

Áderér, according to the different nature of its various parts, is divided into “Áderér e’ temar,” and “Aderér suttuf.” In Áderér Proper there are four ksúr, or towns, the most considerable of which, and the only one known in Europe, is Wadán, a town smaller than Tishít, but at least, till recently, when it has likewise suffered from intestine broils, better inhabited than the latter, and was evidently so, even in the first half of the sixteenth century, when the Portuguese established here a factory for a couple of years. Wadán, as well as Tishít, was originally a place of the Azér, and the Azeríye is still the language of its indigenous inhabitants. It has besides, a considerable Arab population belonging to the following tribes:—

El Arzázir.

Idáw el Háj, probably the founders of the empire of Ghánata, a tribe
of great importance in the history of African civilization, and
divided into the following sections, as far as they live in Áderér:—

Áhel Sídi Makhmúd, the Soltana tribe, to whom belongs the chief of
Wadán, ʿAbd Allah W. Sídi Makhmúd.

Idé Yakób.

Síyám.

Áhel el Imám.

While two other sections of them live in Ergébe, viz.:—

El Útetád.

El Idó-Gejá.

As for the Rayán in Wadán, they are the khóddemán of the Idáw el Háj.

The Medrámberín, one of the tribes of the Kunta.

Wadán has a pretty plantation of date-trees of different sorts, of
better quality than those of Tishít, and the names of which are as
follow:—Sekáni, Tennasídi, El Hommor, Tigíbirt, Owetérdel, Bézal el
Bagra.

The town, composed of houses built of stone and mud, lies on the east side of the valley, on stony and elevated ground. Its population does certainly not exceed 5000, who supply themselves with necessaries from Tishít, as they do not seem to frequent in person the market of Nyámina, or other places.

_Shinghít_, a small place built of stone, the same size as the town of Dál in Bághena, two days S.W. from Wadán[79], which has obtained a great name in the East, all the Arabs of the western desert being called after it. Shinghít, situated in the midst of small sandhills, where a little salt is found, has a handsome plantation of date-trees, where the tíggedirt and the sukkán are produced. It seems to have no Negro population, all the inhabitants being Arabs belonging to the following tribes:—

Welád Jáhé ben ʿOthmán, divided into the following sections:—

Welád ʿOthmán, to whom belongs the despotic chief of the town called
Áhmed ben Sídi Áhmed ben ʿOthmán.

El Áwesiát, who speak the dialect of the Zenágha, and have a chief of
their own.

E’ Redán.

Welád Bú Láhie.

Welád Égshar.

Idáw ʿAlí.

_Átar_, a well inhabited little town or ksar, said by some to be larger than Shinghít, situated two days nearly E. from the latter place, the track descending along the district called El Ós, where date trees and water are met with in several spots. Átar lies at the foot of a kódia, where the water collects, feeding a small plantation of date trees. No negroes.

_Ojúft_, a ksar not so well inhabited as the two foregoing ones, two days S.E. from Shinghít, and one from Átar S.S.W., likewise with a palm grove. Its principal inhabitants are E’ Smésid or Smásida, Zwaye. The inhabitants of Ojúft, with the exception of the Smásida, do not travel, but receive every thing by way of Kasr el Barka, where the people carry on some trade.

Besides the Arab tribes mentioned as living partially in the ksúr, there are still the following tribes to be mentioned as having their encampments principally or exclusively in Áderér.

The Tájakánt are regarded as belonging to the Himyáritic stock, and wear the gubba; they are a large tribe, and are of great importance in the whole commerce between the W. part of Morocco, or “E’ Sáhel,” and Timbúktu, which is entirely in their hands. At present, in consequence of their feud with the Érgebát, they are embroiled in a civil war among themselves, while with the Kunta they are at peace. I mention them here with regard to Áderér, though, as far as they are settled in this district, they have been greatly weakened, and part of them at least seem to have their principal abode in Gídi; they wander also in El Giblah. With Tagánet, with which place their name has been connected, they have nothing whatever to do. Tájakánt is the collective form, a single individual being called Jakáni, fem. Jakaníye. Their chief is the Merábet Mohammed el Mukhtár, an excellent man. They are divided into the following sections:—

E’ Rumadhín or El Armadhín, subdivided:—

ʿAín el Kohol.

Welád Sídi el Háj.

El Msaid.

Welád Sʿaíd.

Welád Músánni in two divisions, whose names I did not learn.

El Újarát.

Áhel e’ sherk.

Drʿawa.

The three latter tribes form at present one faction of the Tájakánt,
the two preceding, together with the Merábet, the other. Altogether
they are certainly able to bring into the field 2000 muskets, but
they do not appear to be strong in cavalry.

The Sídi Mohammed, another division of the Kunta.

In general the Kunta and the Welád e’ Násir form one group in opposition to the Tájakánt, Idáw el Háj, and the Zenágha.

V.—MOORISH TRIBES IN EL GIBLAH AND IN SHEMMÁMAH.

The whole tract of the desert between Áderér and the sea, in a wide sense, is called Tíris, but in a proper and restricted one, this name is applied only to the northern part of it, the middle tract of it being called “Magh-tér,” and the southern one “El Giblah;” but care must be taken not to confound this district with what the Arabs of Ázawád and Timbúktu call “El Giblah,” with which very vague name, signifying in their dialect “the west,” they indicate all that part of the desert W. of them from Waláta as far as the sea. El Giblah is bordered towards the N. by Magh-tér, towards the E. by Áderér, towards the S.E. by El Abiár, and towards the S. by the Senegal; this more favoured southern tract, however, bearing the particular name of Shemmámah, is covered with thick forests of the gum tree while another portion of it, consisting of ranges of sandhills, is called Igídi or E’ Swéhel. El Giblah, as well as all Tíris, has no permanent wells, being extremely dry and sterile, but in the rainy season water is found just under the surface. A few of the most remarkable expressions of the idiom of the Arabs of the Giblah are:—sengetti, dukno; (tefangurút/tajimákhet) } kohemmi; nísha: hasse; ʿaganát: busúsu; adelagán, dúnguri; tarer, hoy, a kind of vegetables; ghursh, hak; sofíf, cleverness; asúfaf, clever; likshásha, large calabash; bíshena, sába; mutteri, héni; tasáret, mat of reed; tarzay, pl. terziyaten, awéba; smángeli, I have forgotten, it has escaped me; selli, let this talk.

The Brákena, a large tribe, levying tribute on the harbours of Bot- hadíye, but at present greatly reduced, have partly become the khóddemán and lahme of the more successful Terárza (a name totally distinct from Tegháza). They are divided into several sections:—

Áhel Agréshi, the Soltana tribe.

Áhel Weled ʿAbd Allah, all the sections of the Brákena being derived
from this ʿAbd Allah, son of Kerúm.

Welád Síd.

Welád Bakr.

Welád ʿAíd, formerly very powerful, at present “lahme.”

Welád Mansúr.

Welád Nurmásh.

Welád Áhmedu.

Áhel Mehémedát.

Welád Ágram, and perhaps others.

The Terárza, a powerful tribe, with Mohammed el Habíb Weled ʿOmár Weled el Mukhtár as chief, in two great sections:—

Welád Áhmed ben Damán.

Welád Damán.

The names of the several sub-divisions into which both these
sections fall, I was unable to make out with certainty, with the
exception of the name of that division of the former section to
which belongs Mohammed el Habíb, they being called:—

Áhel ʿOmár Weled el Mukhtár.

The Elleb, a considerable tribe, who seem to have some sort of relation with the Terárza, while the Erháhela are in a state of dependence upon them.

The Welád Abéri or Abiyéri, a powerful tribe with a respected chief called “El Sheikh Sadíye,” who resides generally near the well Bú- Telimít, mentioned above as belonging to the district El Ábiár, and distant about seven days S.W. from Wadán and nine from Ojúft.

The Temékket:—

Idáw el Hassan.

Idejfága.

Ijéjebó.

Tenderár.

Teshímsha.

El Bárek-Allah.

Limtúna, who are likewise still numerous in Aftót, speaking Arabic.
Other sections of the Limtúna, but who are now scattered over various
portions of the desert, are, besides the Méshedúf: the Idé-lebó,
belonging to the group of Shemman-Ámmas, the Idé-silli, the Udéshen,
the Bedúkel or Ibedúkel, the Lédem, Twabér and the Welád Molúk.

VI.—MOORISH TRIBES IN MAGH-TÉR AND TÍRIS.

Tíris—a word meaning in Temáshight the shallow well—is separated from El Giblah, as I have stated above, by Magh-tér, a girdle of immense sandhills stretching almost from the sea shore as far east as five days beyond Wadán, and varying in breadth from three to five days. Tíris is very much of the same nature as El Giblah, being destitute of water in the dry season, but presenting sufficient herbage for the camel; however, the whole tract does not present one and the same character, the western part, or “Tíris el Khawára,” being much dryer than the eastern portion, which extends from the hasi “El Auj,” to near Íjil, and is called “Tíris el Firár.” In these two districts, there cannot be any permanent dwelling-places, but there are two localities worth mentioning, which occasionally become the scenes of much life and bustle. These are the harbour called Ágadír Dóme and the sebkha of Íjil. The former, being called by the Europeans “Arguin,” and seeming to be identical with the place called Welíli by the Arab writers, when visited by a European vessel attracts numbers of Arabs, principally of the tribe called Malzen, between whom and the strangers the Démesát act as brokers. As for the “sebkha” of Íjil, which was discovered it is said about sixty years ago, it seems to lie in an opening of the sandhills of Magh-tér, which have to be crossed in coming from Wadán as well as from Sákiet el Hamra, having, at some distance towards the south, a high mountain, on whose top some holy person, who was certainly an impostor, is said to have seen a grove of palm-trees. It lies about half-way between Wadán and Agadír, and has rich layers of salt of a good quality, but of black colour, probably of a similar kind to the fourth stratum in Taödénni, called “El Káhela;” but there being no fresh water nearer than a good day’s distance, at El Argíye, there is no permanent settlement here, and the Arabs belonging to different tribes, who come in considerable numbers for the salt, endeavour to get off as quickly as possible. The Sheikh Sídi Mohammed El Kuntawi, who generally has his residence near the well Sidáti, exercises a sort of supremacy over the sebkha, and levies a small tribute on those who carry away the salt. Besides the sebkha of Íjil there seems to be hereabout, perhaps nearer the sea, another sebkha, called Úm El Khashéb, and belonging to the Welád Haye Ben ʿOthmán, but its exact position I have not been able to make out. Among the Arab tribes wandering about in Tíris and Magh-tér, and the adjoining districts, first of all must be mentioned the Welád Delém, which tribe seems to be the most numerous of all the tribes of the desert.

Welád Delém being classed into two groups, at least by the Arabs of Ázawád, called Welád Máref and Delém el Áhmar. To the former group belong the following three tribes:—

Welád Molád, the most numerous section of the W. Delém, but ill-famed
on account of their robberies, living also in Gídi. They are
subdivided as follows:—

Welád Bú-Karsíye, to whom belongs the chief of the whole section,
Hennún Welád Twéta.

El Hamáya, with a chief of their own, El Fádhel Welád Shwén.

E’ Sheháli, with a chief, the son of Allád.

Welád Sháker.

Welád Bú Hínde, who do not live in Tíris, but in Ázawád.

Sekárna, also in several divisions, the name of none of which became
known to me, except that of the Áhel Déde, who are the Shiúkh.

Welád Sálem, with the chief, Mohammed Weled ʿOmár, living here or in
Gídi.

To the Delém el Áhmar belong the following:—

El Ódekát, the Soltana tribe of the Welád Delém, whose famous chief,
Áhmed Weled Mohammed el Fodél, died a few years ago at the age of 120,
it is said. They are subdivided into the following divisions:—

Welád e’ Shíya.

Welád Mansúr.

Welád Alláb.

Welád Ermithíye.

Serákhna.

Welád Tagéddi.

Welád Shwékh.

Welád Bú ʿOmár, whose Shiúkh section are said to be the Áhel ʿOmár
Weled e’ Sheikh Umbréhi.

Welád el Khaléga (?), with the Shiúkh section Áhel ʿOmár Weled Barka.

Welád Siddúm.

Lógora?

Welád Tédrarín in several (ten?) sections, all paying tribute to the
Welád Delém.

Welád Yoʿaza (يعزَ), allied with the Medrámberín, most of whom live in
Tíris. They are a powerful tribe, and fight, against the Welád Delém.
They do not wander much, and are partly under the rule of Áhmed Sídi,
Weled Sídi Mohammed, partly under that of Sidáti.

Tóbalt.

Lémmier.

Shébahín, the kinsfolk of those in El Hódh.

Welád ʿAbd el Wáhed.

El Arúsíyín, the allies of the tribe of the same name.

Imerágen, a very poor sort of people and of bad character, living near
the sea-shore.

More exclusively, with regard to Magh-tér, are to be mentioned:—

Áhel Etfága.

El Khatát.

Welád el Háj Mukhtár.

VII.—MOORISH TRIBES IN EL GÁDA, AZEMMÚR, EL HÁHA, ERGSHÉSH, GÍDI, AND
THE ADJOINING DISTRICTS.