Chapter I (8)

During my stay at Villa Rica, I rode to the city of Mariana, distant eight miles, by a tremendous and almost impassable road, along a ridge of mountains; and afterwards went thither by the general road which passes between two high hills, and for some distance along the river-side, all the way on the descent. The margins of the Rio do Carmo, which runs through the town, have been washed the whole way from Villa Rica: parties from which place held possession of this settlement as early as the year 1710, claiming it on account of the gold brought down from thence by the current of the river. It was made a bishop’s see about the year 1715, and was called Cidade de Mariana, in honor of the then reigning Queen of Portugal, the present Prince Regent’s grandmother. It is a small, neat, and well-built town, containing from six to seven thousand inhabitants. Here is a college for the education of young men destined for the church. The bishop is a prelate of exemplary character, and is beloved by all who know him. The place has very little trade, and depends chiefly on the mines and farms in its vicinity. Many miners reside here whose works are several leagues distant, some of them have also washings extending to the village of Camargo, situated beyond a large plain which stretches westward from the confines of the city.

Having resided in Villa Rica nearly a fortnight, I expressed a desire to visit two estates, forty miles distant, known by the names of Barro and Castro, both belonging to the Conde de Linhares. Between the years 1730 and 1740 these estates produced much gold, and were then in the possession of Senhor Mathias Barboza, a settler of great respectability, who took up these lands and drove the Aborigines from them. He becoming very rich, sent his only daughter to Portugal to be educated, where she remained, and after his death inherited his whole property. She was married in Lisbon to a gentleman of the family of Sousa, and from them are descended the two noblemen of that name, who now hold high official situations under the Prince Regent. His Excellency the Conde’s steward furnished me and my worthy friend with mules, and Dr. Lucas, the Judge, obligingly ordered every necessary to be provided for our journey. We rode through Mariana, and arrived at Alto do Chapada, a village, three miles distant from it, situated on an elevation in the midst of a fine plain. We soon afterwards reached a very high and confined situation, between two perpendicular mountains, from whence we had a bird’s eye view of the village of S. Sebastian. From this steep we descended, with great difficulty, on foot, to the Rio do Carmo at its base, over which is a very high-arched and picturesque bridge. Passing this ravine we proceeded a full league by the river side, through a rich country abounding in fine sloping hills and fertile plains, watered by numerous streams, which flow into the river in various directions, and all of which bear vestiges of having been formerly washed for gold. The road-side exhibited similar remains, and seemed to have been at some period connected with the river, which, in this part, is as large as the Thames at Windsor. We passed through San Giatanha, a straggling, thinly peopled village, and proceeding about three miles farther, arrived at an indifferent house, called Lavras Velhas, where we halted for the night, having performed half our journey. The owner of this place found it difficult, with thirty or forty negroes, to maintain himself decently, though the land was susceptible of every species of culture, and needed only the hand of industry to render it productive. Every thing about the establishment exhibited a pitiful spectacle of neglect, indifference, and sloth. It is but justice to add, that he treated us with the greatest civility, and amply supplied our necessities.

Leaving Lavras Velhas at eight next morning, we passed Morro dos Arreaes, the country presenting still finer valleys and excellent timber, but totally destitute of cattle. Ascending a high hill, we were immerged for about an hour in a cloud, and exposed to some small rain, but not sufficient to penetrate our coats. This was the only rain we experienced on the road by day. In the night the rain sometimes fell plentifully. We observed some exceedingly large worms, stretched motionless on the road, which our guide told us were sure signs of wet weather. From this height we saw the Rio Gualacha, which, with another river, joins the Rio do Carmo about ten leagues below, and forms the Rio San Jose. Proceeding in that direction through a fine country, we reached Altos de St. Miguel, where the river last mentioned is of considerable width, but not deep. Its waters are extremely turbid, on account of the mud brought from the gold-washings along the banks, from its source to this place. These heights command a fine view of three windings of the river; at their base there are vestiges of one of the oldest and most extensive gold-washings, which yielded much treasure to its discoverer and proprietor, Senhor Mathias Barboza. The country is well wooded, but rather thinly peopled; I expressed some surprise at observing no good dwelling-houses in a district which formerly produced so much wealth, and was informed that the first miners, eager to take the cream of the gold to as large an extent as they could, seldom remained long on the same spot, and contented themselves with building sheds, or _ranchos_, to serve for their temporary residence.

Descending this mountain, we entered upon the estate of His Excellency, called Fazenda do Barro, and were shewn the house at a distance of nearly a league, on a pleasing eminence, near the river-side. On arriving, an excellent dinner was provided for us, of which, having been eight hours on our mules, we partook very heartily.

The house, and indeed the whole establishment, were strikingly superior in point of convenience, to the miserable places we had lately passed. Having dined, we refreshed ourselves with a walk in the garden, where the coffee-trees in full blossom showed, at a distance, as if their branches were loaded with snow. This spot afforded a view of a most enchanting country, diversified with gentle eminences and large valleys well clothed with timber. From the farther margin of the river, which flows at one hundred yards’ distance in front of the house, rises a fine hill, well calculated for the culture of every species of produce, and connected with others of equal fertility.

On the following day I was chiefly occupied in visiting every part of the establishment. The distil-house, sugar-engine, and corn-mill, were very much out of repair; the two latter were worked by horizontal water-wheels of great power. The buildings of the _fazenda_ form a square, the southern side being occupied by the house, and the three others consisting of dwellings for the negroes, storehouses, carpenters’ and blacksmiths’ shops, and other offices equally useful.

Having requested to see the cattle, I was shown seven fine well proportioned cows; their calves were old, and they being unaccustomed to be milked regularly, gave very little. I signified to the people my wish to instruct them in the way of making butter after the English mode; and the carpenter hearing my description of a churn, readily assured me that he could make one, and set about it forthwith in the following manner. He procured a trunk of a tree of the length and girth required; sawed it length-wise in two equal parts, which, (after hollowing them sufficiently, and preparing a bottom), he joined with two iron hoops so tightly as to hold water. The churn-staff and top were soon finished: but now an unexpected difficulty occurred; here was no place free from dust and dirt to serve for a dairy, nor any pan fit to hold the milk. All the cooking-pots that could be spared were cleaned for this purpose, but they were quite of the wrong make, being wide at the bottom and narrow at the brim. They were, however, laid by along with the churn, to be used the first time the cows were milked. The good lady of the house assisted in our preparations, and seemed much interested in them.

In the afternoon I rode out to see the gold-washings. On the way thither I observed a man training a horse, with a cord attached to the bridle in one hand, and a whip in the other. Two pieces of leather, in the form of breechings, were sewed to two iron rings; one part was put over the back of the animal, the other part slipped down as a breeching; the part on the back was to prevent its slipping lower. To these rings were tied cords from the horse’s fore-feet, capable of being shortened or lengthened at pleasure. The horse being put in motion, took very short fore-steps, somewhat like those of the chargers in equestrian performances. Horses thus trained are here called _pacers_, and are in great request among persons of distinction of both sexes, their gait being very easy and graceful.

On arriving at the washings, I saw a great extent of ground already worked, and immense heaps of quartzose stones. On the margin of the river where they were then working, I found them cutting away the bank, to the depth of at least ten feet, to get at the _cascalho_ incumbent on the rock. The substance they had to cut through was clay, so strong that, though falls of water were let upon it, and negroes were constantly working it with hoes of various kinds, it was with difficulty to be removed. This was not the only impediment, for, by the constant precipitation of mud, the _cascalho_ was five feet below the bed of the river; hence, when they had sunk their pits, they had to use means for drawing the water from them. The hydraulic machines employed for this purpose are constructed as follows: A trough or spout, made of four stout planks, forming a trunk, about six inches square, is placed in an inclined position, with its lower end in the pit, where a roller is properly secured to a pile driven in the ground: an iron chain, with peculiar links, on every one of which is fixed a piece of wood, nearly answering the interior dimensions of the spout, is passed through it, then under the roller, and over the outside, up to the axis of a water-wheel, which, being put in motion, causes the discharge of a column water equal to the cavity. These machines are calculated to raise a great deal of water, but they are liable to be thrown out of repair. In many cases hand-pumps would serve the purpose better, being made at little trouble or expense, easily repaired, and always ready at an hour’s notice. They are here utterly unknown.

In the operation of getting gold, the heavy work is assigned to the male negroes, and the lighter labor to the females. The _cascalho_, dug from these pits by the former, is carried away by the latter in _gamellas_, or bowls, to be washed. When a sufficient quantity has been procured, the men proceed to that process, which they perform much in the way already described in treating of S. Paulo. I perceived, however, that here they did not, in the first instance, attempt to separate the gold from the black oxide of iron, but emptied their _gamellas_ into a larger vessel, by rinsing them in the water which it contained. The substance deposited in this vessel was delivered out, in small portions of about a pound each, to the most skilful washers, as the operation of washing, or, as it was termed, purifying it, required great niceness and dexterity. Some of the grains of gold were so fine as to float on the surface, and of course were liable to be washed away in these repeated changes of water; to prevent which the negroes bruised a few handfuls of herbs on a stone, and mixed the juice in small proportions with the water in their _gamellas_. Whether this liquid did in reality tend to precipitate the gold, I could not positively ascertain, but the negroes certainly used it with the greatest confidence.

There is another mode of separating the gold from the _cascalho_ called canoe-washing, which is extremely interesting. The canoes are made in the following manner:—Two ten or twelve-inch planks, about twelve or fifteen feet in length, are laid on the ground, forming an inclined plane, sloping about one inch in twelve: two other planks of similar dimensions are fixed in the same direction at the lower end, forming a second inclined plane, with a fall of six inches from the former. On their sides are boards placed edge-wise, and staked down to the ground so as to form long shallow troughs, the bottoms of which are covered with hides tanned with the hair on, having the hairy side outwards, or, in defect of these, with rough baize. Down these troughs is conveyed the water containing the oxide of iron and the lighter particles of gold; the latter substance precipitating in its course is entangled by the hair. Every half hour the hides are taken up, and carried to a tank near at hand, formed of four walls, say five feet long, four broad, and four deep, and containing about two feet depth of water. The hides are stretched over this tank and well beaten, then dipped and beaten repeatedly, until all the gold is disentangled, after which they are carried back and replaced in the troughs. The tanks are locked up at nights, and well secured. The sediment taken from them being light, is easily washed away by the hand in the manner before described, leaving only the black oxide of iron, called _esmeril_, and the gold, which is so fine that mercury is used to separate it. The process, as I saw it performed, was as follows: About two pounds weight of oxide of iron, very rich in fine grains of gold, was put into a clean bowl; a quantity of mercury, about two ounces, was added to it; the mass of oxide, which was very damp, was worked by the hand for about twenty minutes, when the mercury appeared to have separated the _esmeril_, and to have taken up all the gold, assuming a soft doughy mass, that retained any form into which it was squeezed. The grains of gold, however, remained, not amalgamated with, but merely enveloped in the mercury. The mass was put into a folded handkerchief, and an ounce or more of mercury was wrung or squeezed from it. The rest was put into a small brass dish, covered with a few green leaves, and then placed over a charcoal fire, where it was stirred with an iron rod to prevent the gold from adhering to the sides of the dish. The leaves were occasionally changed as they became parched by the heat. When taken off, they exhibited, in some parts, small globules of mercury, and in others white oxide; on washing them with water, nearly half an ounce of the former substance was obtained from them[40]. I ever observed that the gold, after this operation, was changed in color from an agreeable soft yellow to a dirty brown, and presented a very different appearance from that which was not subjected to mercury.

By way of suggesting an improvement, I made some drawings and models of earthen vessels for evaporating, and afterwards condensing the mercury; but the quantity of gold in the hands of individuals requiring this mode of separation is so inconsiderable, that it would scarcely be worth their while to alter the process now practised.

I rode over various parts of the estate, and more particularly along both banks of the river, which, as well as the bed, appeared to have been much washed. The bends, or parts where eddies were formed, were the places noted as being rich in gold. Wherever the margin formed a flat, or level, the _cascalho_ continued under the surface to some distance, appearing like a continuation of the bed of the river, which, in all probability, it was, as the river is known to have been much wider formerly. The parts that were then working, and others that had yet to be worked, bore a very unpromising appearance.

An opportunity was soon afforded me of carrying into execution the proposed dairy experiment. Having obtained about six quarts of milk, (which, on account of the scarcity of grass, was very poor), I put it into the culinary vessels that had been set apart for it; but such was the state of the place in which they were deposited, that that though I placed banana leaves over them, the surface next morning was covered with dust. I took off the cream in the best manner I could, but not being able to find a cellar or cold place for it to stand in, I was obliged to leave it in the same room with the milk, where it was hardly secure against the pigs. On each of the two following mornings, I obtained about two gallons of milk, which, being added to the other, was in due time churned; and, notwithstanding the disadvantages of poor milk, improper utensils, and bad keeping, a tolerably fair proportion of good butter was obtained. The people seemed highly satisfied with the success of the process; but I had strong doubts that they would not pursue it after my departure, as they must naturally dislike the trouble and care which it required. Such was the force of their habitual and long-cherished prejudices, that I have no hesitation in saying they would take ten times more pains to procure forty shillings-worth of gold, at an expense of thirty shillings, than they would to obtain forty-shillings worth of butter, though it were only to cost them five.

It may be expected that I should assign some reasons for entering so frequently into detail upon one of the simplest branches of rural economy. I have to observe, then, that ere I left Rio de Janeiro to undertake this journey, I was informed that the cheese generally consumed in that capital, and regarded there as a luxury, was the produce of the district to which I was going. Its taste was sometimes so extremely rancid and disagreeable, as to be utterly unwholesome, and from this circumstance I judged that there must be great mismanagement in the preparation of it. All the farms which I had occasion to visit on my journey to Villa Rica, and from thence to this place, fully confirmed my opinion; for, miserable as was the condition of every department belonging to them, that of the dairy was still worse. In the few places where they pretended to prepare milk for cheese, not only were the various utensils in an extremely filthy condition, but the rennet was so putrid as to be in the last degree sickening. I endeavoured to make the people sensible of the advantages of an improved mode of management, and wherever I had an opportunity, gave them information how to proceed; but as oral or written instructions were little calculated to make a durable impression, I determined, when leisure and convenience should concur, to enforce them by example. The first and only opportunity of this kind presented itself at the Fazenda do Barro; and I was the more induced to avail myself of it, from considering that the precedent which I wished to give to the farmers of the district, would have greater influence by being sanctioned by the approval of His Excellency the Conde de Linhares. The result, as I have just observed, was not very flattering to my hopes; a solitary experiment can do little towards reforming a general evil of long continuance; and there is no probability that this or any other branch of the farming system of the country will be improved, until the great and the opulent zealously unite for the accomplishment of an object so highly important.

In our excursions through various parts of the estate, we observed on the exterior of many of the trees a great variety of crimson lichens, which, on being steeped in water, imparted a very strong tinge of that color. Here were excellent barks for tanning, particularly that of a tree called Canafistula, which does not redden or color the hide. We found many beautiful varieties of the jacarandá, or rose-wood.

Having resided at Barro some days, we set out for the Fazenda de Castro, distant about seven miles, where we arrived, after a pleasant ride over a mountainous and finely-wooded district, containing large tracts of rich virgin land, watered by many excellent streams. This noble mansion was erected by the first possessor of the district, Senhor Mathias Barboza. It is very spacious and airy, having a gallery in front forty-eight yards long, to which open fourteen folding-doors, or windows, extending nearly from the top to the bottom of the rooms. It is situated near the confluence of the Ribeiro do Carmo and the Rio Gualacha, which form the San Jose, a river as large as the Thames at Battersea.

We did not rest above an hour at this _fazenda_, it being our intention to visit the _aldea_ or village of S. José da Barra Longa, situated on the confines of the territory inhabited by the Buticudos Indians. Crossing the river by a fine wooden bridge, built about fifty years ago, but still in tolerable repair, we proceeded along the bank, which was embellished with several gardens, and presented more frequent appearances of cultivation than we had of late been accustomed to view. The climate is much hotter than at Villa Rica, on account of the lowness of the situation; and we were informed that fruits of every kind, particularly the pine, grew in this soil to great perfection in size and fineness of flavor. The truth of these accounts we could not ascertain, as this was not the fruit season.

After travelling about four miles, we arrived at the village. It being Sunday, numbers of people had come from various parts in the neighbourhood to attend divine service, and, after it was over, flocked in crowds to the place where we alighted. It appeared as if the whole population of the village, men, women, and children, were possessed with the same spirit of curiosity, so great was their eagerness to get a sight of us. We dined in a mixed company of ladies and gentlemen, at the house of the worthy vicar, who kept a very hospitable table, and paid us the most flattering attention. A military officer and a judge, who were of the party, entered into conversation with us; and it was difficult to decide who were the most inquisitive, they, respecting the motives and objects of our journey, or we, respecting the state of the country, the Aborigines, &c.

We learnt that the village was founded about twenty-three years ago by a number of Portuguese, who were tempted to settle, in a spot thus exposed to the depredations of the Buticudos, by the gold with which it abounded. At the present day, I was informed that it contains about four hundred inhabitants, and that the vicinity is well peopled, so that a sufficient force is always at hand to repel the savages; who, no longer daring to attack openly, now have often recourse to stratagem. When they have marked out a house, and ascertained its strength, they set fire to it by shooting arrows with fire-brands into the roof, and fall on the unfortunate inhabitants as they are attempting to escape. These savages, accustomed to live in the woods, and well practised in all the arts requisite for catching the wild animals on which they subsist, have a thousand stratagems for way-laying the settlers. Sometimes they render themselves invisible by tying branches and young trees about them, and fix their bows imperceptibly, so that, when a poor negro or white happens to pass near them, they seldom miss their aim. At other times they rub themselves with ashes and lie on the ground, or make pit-falls, in which they place pointed stakes, and cover them with twigs and leaves. They have a great dread of fire-arms, and betake themselves to flight whenever they hear them: but these weapons are by no means so general among the settlers as they ought to be, and the few they have are of very indifferent make, and frequently altogether useless. It sometimes, though rarely, happens, that the soldiers surprise the aborigines, in which case no combat takes place; the latter run away as speedily as possible; and their pursuers, taking vengeance for injuries sustained, seldom give quarter. Those whom they make prisoners they are obliged to tie hand and foot, and carry on a pole to a place of security: if any one of them be loosed but for a moment, he bursts away, and flees into the woods like a tiger, leaving his pursuers behind. They are untameable, either by stripes or kindness; and, if they find no means of escaping from confinement, they commonly refuse sustenance, and die of hunger.

The injuries occasionally done to settlers by these savages have excited the attention of Government, who have passed a decisive law against them. A proclamation has been issued by the Prince Regent, in which they are invited to live in villages, and become Christians, under a promise that, if they come to terms of peace and amity with the Portuguese, their rights shall be acknowledged, and they shall enjoy, in common with other subjects, the protection of the state; but, if they persist in their barbarous and inhuman practices, the soldiers of His Royal Highness are ordered to carry on a war of extermination against them. Those who are taken prisoners are at the disposal of their captors as slaves, for the space of ten years. It is doubtful whether the offers of conciliation contained in this proclamation will produce in any degree the desired effect; for the Buticudos have an unconquerable aversion to a settled way of life, and a rooted antipathy to every other nation; nor have they intelligence enough to appreciate the benefits of civilized society; so that there appears no hope of reducing them but by the dreadful alternative proposed in the latter part of the decree. One reason for having recourse to this summary mode of dealing with them, which will probably outweigh any arguments in favor of gentler proceedings, is, that the country they inhabit contains gold, and the settlers and adventurers are desirous to obtain speedy possession of it. Some officers, well acquainted with the locality of the territory, and skilled in the art of conducting an Indian war, are already employed in this difficult enterprise. About two leagues from this village is another, called Piranga, situated near the margin of a river of that name, which at a distance of four leagues joins the San Jose, and with it forms the Rio Dôce. This river runs through a fine country, in a northerly and afterwards an easterly direction, discharging itself into the sea in lat. 19° 30′ south. There are three islands at its mouth, called Os Tres Irmâos, (the Three Brothers).

Were this river rendered navigable, what benefits might accrue to the fine country through which it flows! Large quantities of sugar, cotton, and other produce, which the soil is capable of growing, besides excellent timber for exportation, would then form the basis of an extensive commerce, by stimulating the industry of the planters, who are at present averse from cultivating beyond the extent of their own consumption, on account of the heavy expense attendant on a land-carriage of above five hundred miles to the nearest sea-port.

Piranga is perhaps more exposed to the attacks of the Indians than the village of San Jose, but there are some gold-washings in its neighbourhood which tempt the inhabitants to brave that danger. A small band of horse-soldiers is stationed here to parade the confines, enter the woods, and go in quest of the natives whenever information is given. Yet, notwithstanding these precautions, the village is never in perfect security; a house in its immediate vicinity was surprised a few months previous to our visit to this district.

We now took leave of the vicar and his guests, and, I may add, of all the villagers, who came out to salute us as we passed. Returning to Castro, I remained the whole of the next day to examine the establishment. It is built, like that at Barro, in the form of a square, the dwellings of the negroes forming three sides, and the mansion the fourth, the entrance being in front through a pair of gates, which, when shut, secure the whole. The rooms in the mansion were like ancient halls, adorned with carvings, and fitted up and furnished after the old fashion. Here were blunderbusses, swords, and other weapons for defence, used in former days, when the house was liable to the continual attacks of the Buticudos. The stairs, gallery, and floors, were of fine wood, of a quality which time had not in any degree perceptibly injured. Attached to the house were the remains of a sugar-mill, distil-house, corn-mill, and a machine, worked by a strap and spindles, for spinning cotton, all in a state of neglect. The whole establishment bore marks of former opulence and grandeur, from which it appeared to have gradually declined as the gold-washings at the confluence of the rivers and in other parts had become exhausted. The negroes were now all removed to Castro, except a few infirm and sick, who were stationed here to keep the mansion in order, (this being considered as a light employment for them), until such time as their convalescence should fit them for resuming their labors along with their brethren at the other estate.

Having made a sketch of the house, and visited every part which interested me, I returned by the same road to Barro, where I employed myself in making a topographical map of the river, distinguishing by different colors the places already washed for gold, those which were then washing, and the yet unworked grounds. This sort of map might be made on a large scale, so as to include a whole district or parish, where the several mines, or gold-beds, in their different stages, might be exhibited at one view.

On this estate are employed one hundred and fifty-six negroes, of all descriptions, who, on such excellent land, producing every necessary for food and clothing, might be expected to earn considerably more than their own maintenance; yet a former steward managed so ill for twenty successive years, that, although he had nothing to purchase but a little iron, and though the gold-mines were then more productive than at present, he ran the establishment annually into debt to the shopkeepers of Villa Rica. A single circumstance may account for this mismanagement; the noble proprietor resided in Portugal. At present the estate is in a much more prosperous way, being entrusted to the care of another steward, and three overseers, all Creolians. The latter receive a salary of thirty _milrees_ (about nine pounds sterling) _per annum_, besides their maintenance; their business is to execute the orders of the steward, and to superintend the labor of the negroes committed to their charge. They lead a life of extreme indolence, never putting their hands to any species of work.

The general diet of the country-people in this land of Canaan is somewhat similar to that of the miners in the vicinity of S. Paulo, already described. The master, his steward, and the overseers, sit down to a breakfast of kidney-beans of a black color, boiled, which they mix with the flour of Indian corn, and eat with a little dry pork fried or boiled. The dinner generally consists, also, of a bit of pork or bacon boiled, the water from which is poured upon a dish of the flour above mentioned, thus forming a stiff pudding. A large quantity (about half a peck) of this food is poured in a heap in the middle of the table, and a great dish of boiled beans is set upon it: each person helps himself in the readiest way, there being only one knife, which is very often dispensed with. A plate or two of colewort or cabbage-leaves complete the repast. The food is commonly served up in the earthen vessels used for cooking it; sometimes on pewter dishes. The general beverage is water. At supper nothing is seen but large quantities of boiled greens, with a little bit of poor bacon to flavor them. On any festival occasion, or when strangers appear, the dinner or supper is improved by the addition of a stewed fowl.

The food prepared for the negroes is Indian corn-flour, mixed with hot water, in which a bit of pork has been boiled. This dish serves both for breakfast and supper. Their dinner consists of beans boiled in the same way. This unfortunate race of men are here treated with great kindness and humanity, which, indeed, their good behaviour seems to deserve. They are allowed as much land as they can, at their leisure, cultivate, (Sundays and holidays being by law allotted to them for that purpose), and are permitted to sell or dispose of their produce as they please. Their owners clothe them with shirts and trowsers made of coarse cotton, which is grown and woven on the estate. Their days of labor are rather long; before sun-rise a bell rings to summon them to prayers, which are recited by one of the overseers, and repeated by the congregation; after worship is over they proceed to work, at which they continue till after sun-set, when prayers are said as in the morning. An hour after supper they are employed in preparing wood to burn, taking Indian corn from the husk, and in other in-door operations. Swelled necks are not uncommon among the men-negroes, but in other respects they appear healthy: I saw few or none afflicted with elephantiasis, or with any cutaneous disease. There were many very aged of both sexes; a few even remembered their old master, the first possessor, though he has been dead upwards of sixty years.

Their principal article of diet, the _farinha de milho_, or flour of Indian corn, appeared so palatable and nutritive, that, after living upon it for some time, I had the curiosity to enquire into the mode of preparing it from the grain. It is first soaked in water, and afterwards pounded in its swelled and moist state, to separate the outer husk. It then appears almost granulated, and is put upon copper pans, which have a fire underneath, and in these it is kept constantly stirred until it is dry and fit for eating. This substitute for bread is as common among the inhabitants here as is the _farinha de Pao_, or mandioca, among the people of Rio de Janeiro, S. Paulo, and other districts.

The grain is grown always on virgin lands, cleared by burning, after the manner already described. In good seasons, or, in other words, when the dry weather allows the felled wood to be completely reduced to ashes, the return is from one hundred and fifty to two hundred bushels for one. Weeding is only performed after the seed has been a short time in the ground; indeed, the growing crops suffer less from the neglect of that operation than from the depredations of rats, which are frequently very considerable.

On the state of society here I had little leisure to make observations. A general debility seemed to prevail among the females, which I imputed to the want of better food and more exercise: they confine themselves principally to the sedentary employments of sewing, or making lace. While at San Jose I saw many females from the country, dressed in gowns made of English prints; some of them had woollen mantles, edged with gold lace or Manchester velvet, thrown loosely over their shoulders. Their hair was invariably fastened with combs, and they in general wore, out of doors, men’s hats. The men, most of whom belonged to the militia, appeared in uniforms. No two things can be more different than the deshabille and full-dress of a nominal militia officer. When at home he seldom puts on more than half his clothes, over which he throws an old great coat; and saunters about the house in this attire from morning till night, a true picture of idleness. On Sundays, or on gala-days, after some hours spent in decorating his person, he sallies forth, completely metamorphosed from a slip-shod sloven into a spruce-officer, glittering in a weight of gold lace, on a horse caparisoned with equal splendor, forming as fine a sight for the gazing multitude as a general at a review. He observes no medium between these extremes, being always very shabby or very fine.

During my stay at Barro I was presented with some singularly fine fruit, equal in flavor to fresh almonds, and capable of being preserved by drying only, so as to become a valuable article of commerce. Having never before heard of this fruit, I am induced to give a brief account of it. The exterior substance is about the size of a full-grown cocoa-nut with the rind on, say nine or ten inches long and five or six in the thickest part. It grows suspended from the branch by a very slender but strong stem. This shell is full of kernels, to the number of from thirty to fifty, of the shape of almonds, but twice or thrice the size, disposed in ranges or layers, and separated from each other by a white pithy substance. As these kernels ripen, the top of the shell, which appears like a lid, is gradually forced open, and when they are at full maturity, the larger part, which contains them, separates and falls to the ground. The trees, at the season of shedding their fruits, are frequented by wild hogs, herds of monkies, flocks of parrots, and other birds, which never quit them, while any of these delicious nuts remain. I was credibly informed that some trees have been known to produce above a ton weight in a season. One of the nuts I preserved and brought with me, which I sent to Sir Joseph Banks.

We now took leave of the good people at the _fazenda_, and returned to Villa Rica by the way we came. I had, with great difficulty, procured a few pounds of butter, made after the new process, as a present for Dr. Lucas, the Judge, which arrived perfectly fresh and sweet. On passing Lavras Velhas, as we returned, we were shown some excellent cinchona, very like that of Peru, and said to possess similar properties in a high degree. From the specimen we saw, there was every reason to believe, that, if fairly introduced into practice, it might be administered in many cases with as much success as Peruvian bark; and, as great quantities might be procured here, the experiment is certainly worth attending to by medical men. I sent a parcel of it home, but by some accident or other it was lost at the Custom-house.

In many parts of our route we might have collected insects, but they require so much attention and care in preserving them for conveyance so great a distance, that I gave up the pursuit. It appeared to me extraordinary, that I had not, since my arrival in Brazil, seen (except in the cabinets of the curious,) more than one _curculio imperialis_ (diamond-beetle), though I had frequently searched for them in almost every variety of plantation.

During my absence from Villa Rica one of my soldiers had procured me a full pound of native bismuth in lumps, none of which exceeded an ounce in weight. It is frequently found in this state, which proves that it is out of its place, as it originally occurs in veins. Many pieces of pyrites, and various iron ores, were also brought to me.

I had commissioned some persons to collect land shells for me during my absence, and was now to my great gratification presented with six, of a fine chesnut brown color, with beautiful pink mouths, belonging to a new variety of the helix. Having kept them a few days, without taking out the animals, I was surprised to find that one of the latter had laid two eggs. I had before imagined that they were oviparous. I took one of the shells in my hand, while the animal was crawling, when it immediately folded itself, and entered very quickly, in which exertion another egg was deposited in the mouth of the shell. All the eggs were about the size of a sparrow’s. These were the only land shells I had seen on this journey.

On resuming my visit to the mint I took an early opportunity of stating to the acting governors my ideas respecting a new regulation for supplying mercury to the miners. One great impediment to the use of that metal, so essential in certain branches of the process, was the exorbitant price at which it was exclusively sold by the apothecaries, generally upwards of two shillings the ounce. I suggested that the mint should be the general depository for it, and that it should be issued from thence to the gold-washers without profit. By this regulation the article would be brought into general use, much to the benefit of the state as well as of private individuals. I also gave them models of earthen vessels, which might be made at a small expense, for evaporating and condensing the mercury, which, if universally adopted, would effect a great saving in the consumption of that article.

The remainder of my stay, previous to my journey to Tejuco, passed very agreeably. In the evening-parties to which I was invited, and which generally consisted of ladies and gentlemen, I observed that the English style of dress prevailed, particularly among the former. The houses of the higher classes in Villa Rica are much more convenient and better furnished than any I saw in Rio de Janeiro and S. Paulo, and are for the most part kept in the exactest order. Their beds seemed to me so elegant as to deserve a particular description. The posts were of fine wood, fluted or carved in various ways; the sides plain, the bottoms of boards or leather. The bed itself was of cotton, the sheets of fine linen edged with lace of home manufacture, full nine inches broad. The bolster was covered with fine muslin, the ends of which were edged also with lace. The pillows were made round at the ends and covered with pink sarsnet, over which was another of fine muslin, terminated with broad lace, which being starched and delicately managed had a very rich appearance. The coverlet was yellow satin of a Damask pattern, edged like the sheets and pillows with broad lace. The hangings were of the same materials, in the form of a canopy, without curtains. Not excepting the refinements of recent date in this article of furniture, I never saw beds so magnificent as those of the opulent in this captaincy.

Every thing being now in readiness for my departure, I waited upon the several inhabitants to whom I had been introduced, to express my thanks for the polite attentions they had shewn me, and received from them the most obliging assurances of friendship, and the kindest wishes for my welfare. I also, much to my regret, took leave of my valued friend and fellow-traveller, Mr. Goodall, whose affairs required him to go to St. João D’El Rey, and thence return to Rio de Janeiro. Never was a traveller more fortunate in a companion; always cheerful and in spirits, he had the happy faculty of regarding every thing on its bright side, and in all the various inconveniences of bad roads, wretched inns, miserable fare, and worse accommodations, he exemplified the truth of the adage that, “a merry heart hath a continual feast.” Being perfectly master of the language, and well acquainted with the character and manners of the people, he made himself at home every where, and generally contrived to draw from the conversation of those around him, some topic either for lively remark or instructive comment. These amiable qualities, the offspring of a cultivated understanding and an excellent heart, gave him a double claim to that respect and confidence which we ever entertain for those whom we distinguish by the name of friend.

CHAP. XII

_Journey from Villa Rica to Tejuco, the Capital of the Diamond District._

HAVING previously sent letters to his Excellency the Conde de Linhares, giving him an account of my proceedings, I set out from Villa Rica, attended by the two soldiers and my negro servant. I passed through the city of Mariana, and entered upon the plain in its vicinity already mentioned, which, in the rainy season, is often entirely overflowed. To the left I observed a beautiful and romantic mountain, called Morro de Santa Anna, on which stood many small neat houses, surrounded by coffee-plantations and orangeries; its base was watered by a _corvinha_, or rivulet, the banks of which contain much gold, and are worked by the inhabitants of the mount. Passing onward, the road became very confined; and the land, though now covered with wood, appeared to have been formerly under cultivation. We here met a number of mules laden with sugar, destined for Villa Rica, or, if not sold there, for Rio de Janeiro.

We arrived and refreshed at a little village called Camargo, and passed an excellent house, situated near a rivulet of that name, where there is a gold-washing, which employs about two hundred negroes, and is said to be very productive. About a league farther we passed a poor little place called Bento Rodriguez, and about six in the evening arrived at a very considerable village, called Inficionado, which contains full fifteen hundred inhabitants. It had been more populous, but its mines having decreased, it was then on the decline. Finding no inn that offered any thing tolerable, I alighted at the house of a shopkeeper, who very civilly provided me an apartment to sleep in, and introduced me at supper to his wife, and three other ladies, whose society was very pleasant and cheerful. On the next day, after some trouble, my soldiers at a late hour procured mules, when I set out about ten o’clock upon a bad road, and, after travelling half a league, arrived at the Corgo do Inficionado, a fine rivulet flowing through a country rich in gold, particularly near the village of Santa Barbara, where washings appear in all directions. From hence to the village of Catas Altas, two leagues distant, is a tract of the finest open country I ever travelled in Brazil; it has many features resembling that between Matlock and Derby, and its mountains bear a strong similarity to those of Westmoreland. There are slips in some of them in which topazes are found, but rarely any of good quality. This district appeared equally suited for mining and agriculture, the ground being rich above as well as below. The village of Catas Altas, through which we rode, contains at least two thousand inhabitants, and is situated in a populous neighbourhood. The public buildings are well constructed, and the private houses in general appear very respectable, but bear evident marks of decay. We crossed the river which is broad but shallow, and has works on its banks of greater extent and under better management than any I had hitherto seen. The whole vicinity is irrigated by numerous rivulets, many of which are diverted from their courses to a great distance for the purpose of gold-washing. In all parts, even on the tops and sides of the hills, we observed operations of this kind going on; in the valleys there were many spots still rich in gold, which had not yet been washed.

Continuing about six miles over this naked country, we entered on a more confined road, and passing a village called Cocaes, proceeded half a league further in the dark, to the mansion of Senhor Felicio, the _Capitao Mor_ of the district, where we alighted, having travelled this day above thirty miles. On being announced, I was immediately shown up stairs into a suite of handsome apartments, furnished with great magnificence, where I was introduced by the _Capitao_ to his amiable lady and daughter. We were joined by Dr. Gomides, a man of talents and science, with whom I entered into conversation, and who afterwards showed me a fine collection of gold in various forms, some like duck-shot, others laminated with micaceous iron, others arborescent. He had also some specimens of stalactitic matter, on which nitre was forming, others of specular iron ore, and three or four fine pieces of chrome, which I at first took for realgar. From this gentleman I received considerable information respecting the mineralogy of the country, which is so difficult to be obtained accurate, that I found reason to reject all which did not correspond with what I saw. In the course of the evening the party was joined by the Count de Oeyenhausen, who commands a corps of cavalry in the district. He made many enquiries of me respecting England, that being the country in which he had received his education, and to which he seemed as much attached as to his native soil.

This large establishment, though still rich in gold, is worked by only two hundred negroes. One part of the estate is an auriferous mountain of schistus, containing beds of micaceous iron ore; the latter substance forms a thin stratum, which contains gold in grains laminated with it. It is singular to remark, that the _cascalho_, which generally, nay, almost invariably occurs in ravines and low situations, is here found at a very small depth below the surface on the summit.

The discovery of the original gold mine in this rich _sesmaria_, is said to have been owing to the following accident. Some negroes employed in clearing the land, broke up an ant-hill of considerable size, when, on laying it open to the air, for the purpose of destroying or dispersing the insects, large grains of gold were found. It is, however, highly probable that the general characteristics of the soil had led to the discovery long before this period, and that the accident here related, served only to indicate the presence of gold in a part which had not been supposed to contain any. The estate is situated almost in the centre of the mining country, and is reputed one of the richest portions of it. The owner and his brother, who are partners, have conducted their concerns in a liberal way, and are said to be very wealthy. It was my wish to have staid a day or two for the purpose of inspecting the extensive works which they have opened; but I forebore to make any request of this nature, as I perceived, or supposed, some little jealousy or suspicion respecting my views. It seemed to be the opinion here, as well as in other places, that I had a mission from Government, authorizing me to enquire into the state of the mines, and give a report concerning them.

In riding past the works, after having taken leave of the _Capitao_ I did not perceive any machinery used for facilitating manual labor. The tedious process of washing by hand was most generally practised; in some instances inclined canoes were used, which, if carried to the degree of improvement of which they are susceptible, might much more effectually answer the purpose.

Between the mountain on _Capitao_ Felicio’s estate and the village of Sabará is a rich mining district, which extends also to Bromare, over a continuation of hilly country. It is occupied by several opulent miners, who possess many fine grounds still unworked. A tract of land a few miles in extent is appropriated to agricultural purposes, being reputed to be destitute of gold.

I proceeded four leagues, over a well-watered and finely-wooded country, to a hamlet called Vaz, a name which had become familiar to my ear through the frequent mention which my soldiers made of “the good old man of Vaz.” This person, whose reception of me fully justified the appellation with which he had been distinguished, was a farmer from Oporto, who had been resident here about forty years. He bought the estate with twenty negroes upon it, and paid for it by yearly instalments in twenty years afterwards. This mode of disposing of estates is much practised, being at once easy to the purchaser, and advantageous to the seller, as it ensures to the latter a better price than he could obtain on the condition of immediate payment. The house, which is well-built and convenient, has a sugar-mill and distillery attached to it. The sugar is generally sent to Rio, under an agreement with the carrier, giving him half or sometimes two-thirds of the proceeds, with a promise of back-carriage of salt, iron, and other commodities.