Chapter I (11)

The quadrupeds of Cerro do Frio are common to other parts of Brazil. Mules are the principal beasts of burthen, and are much dearer than in the districts more to the southward. Horses are not so numerous, but cheaper, being in very little request, and used only on journeys of pleasure. Horned cattle are bred at a considerable distance, and brought for the consumption of the place. Sheep are almost unknown; hogs and goats are more plentiful; of dogs there are but few, and the race is very indifferent. Ounces are very seldom seen; there are not many deer; the danta, or tapir, is not uncommon.

Of birds there are a few varieties, but in no great numbers; partridges are rather common; we shot several in our way to the different mines, which proved good eating. Domestic fowls are in tolerable plenty, but by no means cheap, being eighteen-pence to two shillings each.

Of serpents, I saw only one, and it was harmless: but I was informed that the rattle-snake and the _jararaca_, both equally venomous, are common in this district. Lizards are very numerous, and the _cayman_, or alligator, is found in most of the lagoons and rivers.

Fish are extremely scarce in all the streams, owing to the quantity of matter with which their waters are impregnated from the numerous washings.

This district is in general free from that troublesome plague, the mosquito, as that insect is peculiar to low and swampy places, and does not bite with such disagreeable effect in elevated and airy situations. Bees are but little attended to, and are scarcely known; were the management of them better understood and practised by the inhabitants, they might be much increased, and wax might even be exported.

In closing my observations on this district, I may be permitted to add some particulars relative to the capital. The families whom I had the honor to visit appeared to live in great sociability. They frequently form tea-parties. The dress of the ladies consists almost entirely of articles of English manufacture, cotton-prints, straw hats, artificial flowers, jewelry, &c. Owing to the distance of Tejuco from a sea-port, piano-fortes have not been introduced here, or they would probably be in considerable demand; for the ladies in general have a taste for music, and touch the guitar with great spirit and elegance. Dancing is a favorite amusement, and all appear much pleased and animated with the English country-dance. The ladies seldom go abroad, except to mass, and then they are usually carried in a chair hung with curtains and a canopy, and suspended from a pole borne by two men. The sedentary habits of the females I have often thought injurious to their health; but, since English saddles have been introduced, they begin to take airings on horseback.

Warm baths are very generally used, being considered of great efficacy in removing recent colds, to which all persons here are liable, on account of the peculiar nature of the climate. They are invariably offered at night to travellers, as a means of relieving the pains occasioned by the fatigues of the day.

A continuance of ill health obliged me to take leave of my friends in Tejuco, and to return to Rio de Janeiro with all possible expedition. It will not be expected that I should relate all the particulars of my journey thither, as I retraced my former route with a few occasional deviations; I shall therefore confine myself to whatever I saw worthy of interest which I did not observe on my way to Tejuco.

Dr. Camara did me the honor to accompany me as far as San Gonçal, and showed me a work a short distance from the establishment, near the margin of a river of the same name. As I staid here one entire day with this gentleman, I had leisure to examine this singular situation, where I, for the first time, found mountains of sienite, incredibly hard, composed of hornblende and feldspar. About forty years ago this excavation, which was of considerable depth, was suddenly filled up by the bursting-in of the side, for want of proper support to resist the pressure of the incumbent stratum, which falling in immense masses, totally destroyed the works; and they remained in this state until about two years ago. As the wings of vague report are in general much longer than those of truth, this place had the reputation of being extremely rich in diamonds, and the apparent impossibility of clearing it, added greatly to the credit which was given to it. Old inhabitants came forward to say that they had been employed in the works when the accident happened, and that the diamonds found in them excelled in number, size, and fineness those produced at any other place. These reports soon reached the ears of the Intendant, who, within a year after entering his office at Tejuco, formed a plan of clearing and excavating the works. Such a stupendous undertaking was calculated only for a man of his superior talents and enterprise. He stationed there four hundred negroes under the direction of the best officers on the establishment; inclined planes were formed, and pulleys calculated to lift immense weights were erected. As some of the masses of sienite were too large to be raised whole, and the substance was so hard that steel would not stand to bore it, they were obliged to contrive means for breaking them. Recourse was had to large fires, with which the rocks were heated, and cold water was thrown upon them from tubs suspended by long pieces of timber formed somewhat like cranes. After six months of very heavy and incessant labor, the place was cleared. Let us for a moment reflect on the sanguine expectations which had been formed respecting the size of the diamonds, their number and brilliancy, the honors that would be conferred on the officers, &c. and we may judge what must have been the general disappointment, when, after the very bottom had been scraped, not a diamond was found! Thus ended this serious trial, made at great expense, labor, and risk; like many other speculations, built on the delusive stories propagated by old miners respecting places formerly worked, by which new adventurers are generally tempted, and frequently ruined.

I continued my former route, visiting the same friends who had received me on my journey to Tejuco, until I arrived at Cocaes. In the vicinity of this place are found fine amethysts and crystals, through which titanium is interspersed. Proceeding from hence, I took a more easterly route to Bromada, distant about five leagues. A great part of the road was covered with rich iron ore. I passed through the village of St. John, and entered a fine valley, through which ran a little rivulet, called St. Antonio;—a more delightful place cannot be imagined: the grounds, which lay in gentle elevations, were capable of every kind of cultivation, and appeared calculated amply to repay the farmer for any labor he might bestow on them. In addition to these advantages, and that of a fine climate, this vicinity yet contains some places extremely rich in gold. At the end of this valley we crossed the rivulet over a good stone bridge, and passed through a pretty hamlet called Barra; proceeding a league further, we arrived at the house of Captain José Alvarez, who received me with great kindness. This being Sunday, many of the neighbours were on a visit to his house; a sumptuous dinner had been provided, and the evening passed in very interesting conversation relative to the mode of mining in that neighbourhood. Next day I went to visit the gold-works belonging to this gentleman, the principal of which was situated near the summit of a mountain of decomposed granite, one part of which seemed to have slipped from the other, leaving a cleft of twenty feet perpendicular. The face of this cleft appeared of different colors, some more red or brown than others; the parts esteemed most rich in gold had the appearance of irregular cavities, filled by a stalactitic substance in decomposition. This mountain has produced a great quantity of gold, and continues yet rich: it may be truly called auriferous; for I directed negroes to bring me specimens of earth from every part of the cleft, from the roots of the grass to the bottom, all of which I found to contain gold. At this place stamps are used to reduce the more indurated substances, but they are so ill constructed as to produce but little effect. After a most pressing invitation to stay, and advantageous offers of land to a considerable extent, which I found it expedient to decline, I took leave of the owner of this establishment, and passed a very large house belonging to _Capitao Mor_ Penha, a very opulent miner, who has a large establishment of negroes, and extensive lands. I continued my route five leagues through an auriferous country, passed the village of St. Barbara, and arrived at Cantas Altas. From hence I proceeded to Villa Rica, without observing any thing worth notice.

I was here received with the same attention and respect which I had experienced on my first visit. Finding it necessary to remain a few days to recruit my health, I examined a variety of substances that had been collected for me during my absence, but was not fortunate enough to meet with any thing very interesting. The theatre being open, I passed two evenings there, and was much gratified to find that the rational amusement of the drama had superseded savage bullfights. The theatre and decorations were neat, and the performances tolerable; were they better encouraged, the public would receive greater gratification. They have ever been under the control of the governor, and are generally so fettered as to be obliged to perform such pieces only as his caprice may dictate.

Leaving Villa Rica, I continued my journey to the capital, where I arrived about the middle of February 1810, in a most exhausted state, from the combined effects of fatigue and an indisposition which continual exertion and want of rest had increased in a considerable degree. I informed His Excellency the Conde de Linhares of my arrival, and, in a few days afterwards, had the honor of presenting to him a report, stating the particulars of my journey. I was afterwards introduced to the Prince, who did me the honor to express his approbation of my account of the country through which I had travelled, and requested me to publish it. He was graciously pleased to make both my attendants inferior officers, in reward for their good conduct; and when I expressed my thanks for this mark of his attention, he replied, that it was too trivial to notice, and desired me to name in what manner he could testify the sense he entertained of my services. At this moment my health was so extremely precarious, that I could not think of remaining in Rio de Janeiro, where I found myself daily getting worse; otherwise I have not the smallest doubt that the generosity of the Prince would have amply repaid me for the fatigues I had encountered.

CHAP. XVI.

_General View of Minas Geraes._

THE _capitania_ of Minas Geraes extends from 600 to 700 miles from north to south, and about the same distance from east to west. It is bounded on the north by the _capitania_ of Bahia; on the west by that of Goyaz; on the south by the river Paraibuna, which divides it from the _capitania_ of Rio de Janeiro. It is separated from the _capitania_ of Espirito Santo and the coast by an immense chain of mountains, which country, being inhabited by the Aborigenes, is of course very little known.

This _capitania_ is estimated to contain three hundred and sixty thousand inhabitants, of whom two hundred thousand are negroes, or their immediate offspring. The population of Indians is not included in this estimate, nor can it be ascertained; they are considered as by no means numerous, as they never make any opposition against an armed force, however small. In the course of my journey I did not see one, except the child at the village of Conceição, nor did I ever hear of one of the race of the Buticudos becoming civilized, or living in any of the villages with the settled inhabitants[58].

The regular military establishment of the _capitania_ is very respectable, and consists of 1400 cavalry, which number is prescribed by law. Their principal station is at Villa Rica, where the general resides, who, jointly with the governor, issues all orders respecting them. They form a disposeable force for the general service of the _capitania_; they are appointed to guard certain places known to contain valuable products; also to receive tolls, collect tythes, patrol the roads, and search suspicious persons, for which purposes parties of them are stationed at the various guard-houses and registers. They go in quest of felons, guard the prisons, and likewise execute orders to impress men levied for service in Rio de Janeiro. They are employed exclusively in the mining country, which they never quit, except when they escort diamonds and treasure to the capital, or are dispatched on any particular service. The regiment is a very fine one, and enjoys so high a reputation, that numbers are continually offering to enlist in it. While I was at Villa Rica, nearly two hundred volunteers were serving, without any remuneration whatever, waiting to be placed on the establishment according to their seniority, as vacancies should occur. This affords the general an opportunity of choosing the most soldier-like men, and those of best character; in which respects it is asserted, and I believe with great truth, that the corps is unrivalled. The officers enter very young, and serve as cadets for a certain period, during which they perform the duty and receive the pay of privates, from whom they are distinguished by a star on the right shoulder, and generally exercise together. They are promoted according to seniority.

Besides this force, there is a militia, in which all the male inhabitants of the _capitania_ are enrolled, and are liable to be called out when occasions require. It is a part of the present policy of the Prince’s ministers to stimulate the Creolians to active occupations, by obliging them either to till their grounds, or to enter the ranks and become soldiers.

The known produce of this vast extent of territory comes next under consideration. On this subject I shall not follow a variety of vague accounts, which have been compiled with little regard to truth, but shall present to the reader the result of my own observations.

The great quantities of gold, precious stones, iron, &c. produced in this country have been largely treated upon. Lead ore appears to be rare, as it is found only near Abaité. Antimony abounds in the vicinity of Sabará; native bismuth is found near Villa Rica; arsenical and iron pyrites are very common; titanium is found in octahedral crystals, also in beautiful prisms and tender spicula, finely grouped in rock crystal. Platina may be obtained in tolerable quantities at Lagos, but the place which produces it has been abandoned from want of a market. Chromate of lead, _I was informed_, is found in the vicinity of Cocaes; but I have reason to suspect I was imposed upon. At Tejuco, also, I was shown some, and was presented with two pieces, which are uncommonly fine, more brilliant in color than that from Siberia, and distinctly crystallized on a matrix of granular sand-stone, accompanied with the green oxide of chrome. Copper can scarcely be said to exist in this country; the only place at present known to produce it, is a mountain twenty leagues from Tejuco, where small particles appear in a rock of quartz and hornblende: the matrix is so hard, and the quantity of copper so trivial, as to afford no encouragement to work it. The place has been examined by the Intendant, and is known to most persons in Tejuco[59]. No mines of silver have been discovered in the _capitania_, but the gold is generally found to contain that precious metal, sometimes in great proportion. No tin, cobalt, or any other metal, except those above mentioned, have been hitherto met with.

Of salts, impure nitrate of potass is formed in great abundance, generally, if not always, in calcareous situations, in a tract of country which commences from ten to fourteen degrees west of Tejuco, particularly at Monte Rodrigo, which is situated between the two celebrated rivers called Rio dos Velhos and Parauna. This mountain is very large and well wooded; the stratum is calcareous, and contains many eaves furred, as it were, with nitrate of potass. Since Government has made nitre an object of commerce, and encouraged its production, many families have settled at this place, and have collected large quantities of this saliferous substance, which, after several operations, is sent to Rio de Janeiro, where it is refined for the great powder-manufactory recently established near that city.

In various places are found the finest clays in great plenty, fit for porcelain and earthenware of every description, which are entirely neglected. In other parts I saw cyanite, actinolite, tremolite, pot-stone, and chlorite. Conglomerate masses of recent formation, enveloping diamonds and grains of gold, are sometimes, though rarely, met with; also a siliceous substance of a fine dark-blue color, probably totally unknown.

On the vegetable products of this _capitania_ I have but few observations to make, in addition to those already given in the course of my narrative. Many parts are well calculated for the growth of hemp and flax, and water for steeping them is easily obtained in most situations; so that the only impediment to the introduction of these useful plants appears to be the labor required to clear them.

In the immense woods the finest trees are frequently destroyed by the creeping plants, which cannot grow without adhering to some support. When they attach themselves to a tree, they shoot up very rapidly, encircling it with numerous fibres, and in a few years become so strong as entirely to stop the growth of the tree, and at length destroy it. When in a young state, they are so flexible as to be used for ordinary purposes instead of cords. I have seen negroes make their bridles of them, and ride with them for a day together.

As these forests remain unexplored, many of the trees are unknown, and consequently the qualities of their barks. However, there are some used by the inhabitants in dying yellow; and I was informed some yielded a black color that could not be washed out. There is a variety which serves for curing skins, or tanning, some of which give the hide a red color, others leave it almost white: but this art is so little known, and the people are so averse to employments of this sort, that it has hitherto made little progress.

Gum tragacanth is in great plenty, and of a very good quality. There are immense quantities of aromatic shrubs; and I found in many places, upon the bark of trees, and more particularly upon old wood, a lichen, which yielded to water a most beautiful crimson color[60]. Jointed canes grow spontaneously, frequently above thirty feet long, and in many places form arcades over the road: these plants always indicate the soil to be very fertile.

Ferns grow so large, as almost to lose their characteristic: I have frequently seen them twelve feet high. These and other succulent plants, when reduced to ashes, serve to make soap, of which almost every negra knows the process, and most families make for their own use. It is very sharp, and washes white articles uncommonly well[61]. In this fine country, where almost every gradation of climate may be found, European fruits, such as olives, almonds, chesnuts, mulberries, &c. would thrive, if properly attended to.

The mulberry is cultivated at one place, where I saw a few silk worms. The climate is favorable to them, but the population is not sufficient to carry the breeding of them to any extent, as they require great attendance and care.

Cochineal may be said to be almost unknown in the _capitania_; the _palma Christi_ grows spontaneously, and from its seeds great quantities of castor oil may be extracted. For bananas and other tropical fruits the climate is not sufficiently hot, and is too changeable. Beans, peas, and pulse in general are very fine; pumpkins also, and cabbages grow to a great size. It is a fine country for flowers; the rose is extremely fragrant, and is in bloom all the year. Varieties of the passion-flower are found in all parts; pinks and carnations, with numberless other flowers, grow in great profusion.

This _capitania_ contains four _comarcas_, or districts, St. João d’El Rey, Sabará, Villa Rica, and Cerro do Frio, all of which produced much more gold a few years after their discovery than at present, though in the year 1809 Villa Rica alone received for gold permuted a hundred and six _arrobas_ of thirty-two pounds each. The mines in the other three _comarcas_ cannot be rated to permute less than from fifteen to twenty _arrobas_, therefore the _capitania_ may be estimated to yield to Government, as the annual fifth, a quantity not less than one hundred and fifty _arrobas_.

St. João d’El Rey, the capital of the district so called, is a considerable town, and contains at least five thousand inhabitants. It is situated near the Rio das Mortes, which runs northerly, and empties itself into the Rio das Velhas. The country around it is very fertile, and produces excellent fruits, both exotic and indigenous; also Indian corn, and beans in great quantities; as well as a little wheat. This _comarca_ being more cultivated than any other part, is called the granary of the district; cheese is made here in tolerable quantity, and bacon very indifferently cured, both which are sent to Rio de Janeiro, and form a considerable trade. Great numbers of fowls are also sent thither, and a little rum, sugar, and coffee. Provisions of all kinds are much cheaper than at Villa Rica; pork and beef are about a penny per pound, poultry in proportion, and vegetables equally cheap.

About two leagues distant from the town is the rivulet of San José,[62] formerly abounding in gold-washings, some of which continue good, particularly those in the vicinity of a pretty village, called Campanha. In the neighbourhood is a mountain that produces a great quantity of iron pyrites, which many people believe to be gold, and say that no method is yet known for extracting it. In this district are a great number of pines of a very singular variety, from the bark of which exudes much resinous gum. The wood is of a fine brown-red color, full of knots, and inconceivably hard.

Some cotton, although not very considerable in quantity, is grown in this district; it is spun by hand, and woven into coarse clothing, generally for the use of the negroes. Finer cloth is sometimes woven for table linen. The making of lace is a favorite occupation with the ladies of St. João d’El Rey, who are reputed to be more attentive to domestic concerns than those of other towns, many of them being descendants of the Paulistas, so celebrated for industry and economy.

The district of Sabará was discovered and settled by the Paulistas, who took possession of it as early as the year 1690, or, according to some accounts, twenty years earlier. They founded the town which is now the capital of the district, and worked several gold-mines in its neighbourhood, the produce of which they sent to their native place, as it was their custom to do with all the gold found in the various parts which they explored; on this account the city of S. Paulo acquired a much higher reputation for riches than it merited, it being generally believed that all the gold sent from thence was procured in that vicinity. Some years after the establishment of Sabará, the Court of Lisbon sent out a nobleman as governor to reduce the settlers, and to oblige them to pay a tribute in conformity to the laws of the colony. The settlers took up arms, and several encounters took place, in one of which the nobleman was killed: but, after some time, the viceroy sent great reinforcements into the interior, and quelled the insurgents, who submitted to pay a fifth of the gold produced. An adventurer of the name of Artis, who was a man of great intrepidity and perseverance, and had made considerable discoveries in the neighbourhood, was afterwards appointed governor, and this proved the means of reconciling all parties.

Respecting the working of the mines throughout this _capitania_, it has been already observed, that much loss of time and labor is occasioned by the want of machinery, and proper implements for the workmen. Not a cart or wheel-barrow is in use: every thing necessary to be removed is carried on the heads of the poor negroes, in _gamellas_, who have in many instances to climb up steep ascents, where inclined planes might be employed to great advantage, and would be formed with very little trouble. The cassoon is the only hydraulic machine known, and is very generally adopted: but it is constructed with great difficulty and expense, and can be used only where a strong current of water can be commanded. Pumps might, at very trivial cost, be constructed on the simple plan of the machines used to pound their Indian corn.

The tedious process of washing the _cascalho_ for gold in _gamellas_, would be much shortened by using a machine of very easy construction. Suppose a cylinder to be formed of bars of iron longitudinally placed, and nailed to circles of wood, open at each end, and suspended on two centres, one about sixteen inches higher than the other. At the highest end the _cascalho_ is to enter by being put into a hopper which communicates with it. The bars must be nailed almost close to each other at the upper end, gradually widening to the lower end, where they should be about half an inch asunder. The cylinder ought to be from ten to twelve feet long, and a stream of water conducted to fall upon it length-wise: it should be inclosed, like a dressing-machine in a flour-mill, and be subjected to a very quick motion. The portion of _cascalho_ containing the most gold will fall through, near the upper end; the other parts, according to their comparative fineness, gradually descending until nothing but the pebbles fall out at the lower end. The earth, &c. falling into partitions or troughs below the cylinder, would be ready for being separated from the gold by hand, which might be done with very little trouble. Machines of this kind might be made on any scale, and, if generally known and adopted, would save the labor of the negroes in a tenfold degree. The one constructing in Cerro do Frio will, when complete, do more work than a hundred negroes in the same space of time. A considerable improvement might yet be made in this useful apparatus; for, if the gold, &c. washed from the machine were to fall upon troughs placed in an inclined position, having a channel across about a yard from the upper end,[63] all the gold would precipitate into it, and; if a negro were to be continually employed in agitating the water, the earthy matter would run off, leaving only the gold and the ferruginous particles, which might be easily separated by mercury[64]. The utility of machinery of this kind is too obvious to need pointing out.

Mills composed of three heavy irregular stones, resembling our flint-mills, would reduce many of the ferruginous aggregates and softer substances which contain gold. The matter thus reduced might be immediately washed by falling or being put into the inclined planes before described, and would, no doubt, prove the means of obtaining considerable quantities of the precious metal, which would be otherwise lost. Stamps might be useful where gold is found in hard and brittle substances: but these would be more effectually pulverized by a heavy stone rolling upon its edge, not unlike a tanner’s bark-mill.

In many instances, hand-sieves might be useful, and would save much time and labor in washing, but perhaps they would be too expensive. Even miners’ tools are much wanted, the only ones in use being the iron bar and the hoe. The common miner’s pick would in many cases be serviceable, and _bucking-irons_[65] would reduce the matrix much more effectually than beating it with stones, which is the only mode now practised. It is a most unfortunate circumstance, and very detrimental to the interests of the miners, that whatever is made of iron is so dear as to be beyond the means of the inhabitants to procure, nor have they any substitute for it.

When the present state of the mining country is considered, and its rich resources are compared with the want of science, which prevents the inhabitants from improving them, how much is it to be wished that Government would establish and encourage economical societies on the plan of our Society of Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce, in which inquiries might be made into all subjects relative to the useful arts. Repositories also might be established in all the principal towns of the _capitania_, where models of useful machinery and various implements might be kept for the inspection of the public. Scientific publications should be purchased, and every means employed to promote the cultivation of science among the inhabitants. At the meetings of the societies, every measure tending to increase the commerce of the district should be discussed with particular attention; honorary gifts should be made to those who most promoted its welfare, and premiums should be offered for the encouragement of all attempts to ameliorate the condition of the working class of the negroes.

Thus emulation would be enkindled among them, and useful knowledge, descending from parent to child, would soon be universally diffused. This would be the true foundation of the prosperity of the country; for no territory perhaps in the world is so rich in natural products, and at the same time so neglected for want of an enlightened and industrious population.

CHAP. XVII.

_Brief Notices on the Capitanias of Bahia, Pernambuco, Seara, Maranham, Para, and Goyaz._

THE _capitania_ of Bahia, to the northward of Minas Geraes, comes next under consideration, respecting which, as I did not visit it, I have only to present some observations from the best information I could procure. It extends a considerable distance along the coast, being bounded on the north by the great river St. Francisco, which runs into the sea in lat. 11° south, and separated from the district of Ilheos (formerly a _capitania_) by the river Das Contas in lat. 14° south. It receives its name from the capacious bay on which its capital is built, and which affords excellent anchorage for ships of any burthen. St. Salvador, the capital, also called Cidade de Bahia, was originally the seat of the supreme government of Brazil: it consists of two parts, one built on low ground near the shore, where the commerce is carried on, and the other on a high hill, which being considered the most healthy, is the residence of all the people of consequence. Its population is said to be nearly equal to that of Rio de Janeiro, and is stated at not less than seventy thousand souls. The houses are built with latticed windows and balconies, similar to those in Rio de Janeiro. The churches are the public buildings most worthy of notice: they are said to be richly ornamented within. The government of the city is vested in a governor, who is nominated by the court for three years. Here all law proceedings, civil and criminal, come before the tribunal, called _Rellaças_, the sentence of which is in general final, though appeals in certain cases may be made to a higher tribunal, called the _Dezembargo do Paço_.

This town is tolerably defended, also the bay, as well as circumstances will permit. On the shore is a royal arsenal, and numerous houses for stores, &c. The custom-house and wharfs are conveniently situated. Ships of war have been built here, also many very large and fine vessels for the merchant service. For these purposes a large supply of fine timber was (and, I presume, continues to be) readily obtained from the interior from the number of fine rivers which flow into the bay. The wood holds iron better, and is superior to our oak.

The manners and customs of the people differ little from those of the inhabitants of the capital; but it is said that in the best societies here, more gaiety and refinement prevail, and the higher classes are more sociable, than in Rio de Janeiro. A taste for music is general; there are few houses without the guitar, and all the more respectable families have piano-fortes. The ladies dress in the English style, and ornament themselves with gold chains: they wear very few diamonds; their favorite gem is the chrysolite. For deshabille at home they wear a kind of loose dress, over which they throw a veil on the entrance of strangers. They are considered as far less industrious than the females of the southern districts. The domestic dress of the men consists of a jacket and loose trowsers, made of light printed cotton.

Religious processions take place here, as in Rio de Janeiro, on great festivals and rejoicing days; and these festive occasions are distinguished by various amusements, which continue from morning to night. At these times the Brazilians have a custom of covering the walls and balconies of their houses with velvet or beautiful silks, embroidered with gold lace, in architectural orders, made and ornamented for the purpose; thus adorned the houses exhibit a most splendid appearance.

One of the most memorable seasons of rejoicing of late years was when the Prince touched at this city on his voyage to Rio de Janeiro, and remained several days. The inhabitants testified their loyalty and attachment to him by every public demonstration of joy, and by a display of all the grandeur and magnificence which they had means to furnish. As a more solid proof of their attachment and regard, they unanimously voted to subscribe a sum equal to a million sterling to build a palace for the royal family, if the Prince would condescend to reside among them.

The climate is always warm, but is refreshed by the sea-breeze, and is in some degree tempered by the long absence of the sun, the nights being of almost uniform length throughout the year. Though hotter than Rio de Janeiro, Bahia is considered much more healthful, having a more airy situation, and being better supplied with water. The practice of bathing is very general, and most of the houses have conveniences for this purpose.

Bahia is plentifully supplied with provisions. Beef and pork are in abundance; the former is decidedly bad, the latter tolerable. Fish are in great plenty and variety, and form a principal article in the diet of the inhabitants. Fish, with sallad, is the general supper of almost all ranks; even the rich desire nothing more for this repast in family. Numbers of retail shopkeepers, who sell wine, cheese, groceries, &c. buy fish and fry it, and afterwards retail it in small quantities. Poultry is in plenty, but not cheap; vegetables, and pulse of every description, are in very great profusion. The markets are well supplied with all the tropical fruits, many of which are said to be in great perfection, particularly the pine, the mango, and the banana; the latter is esteemed the best in America. Preserved fruits are in great abundance, owing to the cheapness of sugar; great varieties of them are sold in the streets, and two or three preserved limes in a cup of syrup may be bought for less than a penny. Even the lower orders conclude the meanest dinner with this delicious delicacy.

The soil of this _capitania_ is peculiar, and is esteemed the best in Brazil for the growth of the sugar-cane. This advantage, and the conveniences arising from the numerous rivers that flow from the interior into the bay, have occasioned the establishment of many sugar plantations, undoubtedly the finest in the country, which have produced immense quantities of that article. The soil most adapted to the plant, and held in the highest estimation, is a black greasy loam, a deposit, containing a large quantity of decomposed vegetable matter.

The opulent and best informed planters have imported steam-engines for the crushing of cane, which will probably prove very advantageous, and cheaper in many situations, as they can at all times be worked, and are as easily regulated as a water-mill.

The mode of cultivating the cane has already been detailed. If planted in new soil, it is fit for cutting in fourteen months, but in old and poorer land it requires eighteen or twenty months. When ripe, the canes are cut and dressed by taking off the top leaves, &c. which afford excellent provender for cattle; they are then brought to the mill, which is composed of three wooden or iron cylinders, moving on their axes in a perpendicular position, and between them the canes are repeatedly passed until all the juice is expressed, and they are reduced to a mass of dry fibres.

The cane-juice is conducted through spouts to a large boiler or clarifier, where a certain quantity of alkaline matter, called _temper_, is added to it[66]. Afterwards it is conducted to the largest of a range of boilers, consisting of three, or sometimes four, one less than another. The largest seldom contains more than one hundred gallons. Here the syrup boils for a certain time, and is continually skimmed; it is then laded to the next, where it continues to boil until more of the aqueous fluid is evaporated; after which, it is laded into the third boiler, and is there sometimes sufficiently boiled without removing it into the fourth. They judge of its consistency by the touch; a little of the syrup is taken between the thumb and finger, and if it forms threads, and breaks on being drawn about an inch, it is supposed to be boiled sufficiently[67]. It then begins to granulate, and is gently laded into earthen pots of the form of a sugar-loaf, about two feet deep and ten inches in diameter at the open end, where, on cooling, it becomes concrete. In the lower end of each pot is a small hole, which at first is nearly closed; but after the sugar begins to cool, it is unstopped, and a piece of cane is put in to admit the molasses to drain. Soon after the moulds are filled, they are removed into an airy room, where they are placed so that the molasses drain into a large cistern, from whence they are conveyed into the fermenting vats, which are recepticles for all the refuse of every description in the sugar-house. In the process of fermentation much depends on the quality of the wood of which the vats are made; some of them bring the liquor into a proper state for distillation two or three days sooner than others.

The greatest part of the sugars made here are clayed, by a very simple operation, which consists merely in covering the sugar with very moist clay, the water from which percolates the mass, and carries with it the remaining molasses. When the earthy matter becomes dry, more is applied until the sugar is perfectly freed, and nearly white. This operation renders the article unfit for making loaf sugar. After remaining in the drying-house about six weeks, the moulds are placed with the large end downwards, and the sugar leaves them; they are then beaten down to powder in large strong cases, constructed of four entire planks, and the two ends, generally about eight feet long, and about twenty-six inches square[68], holding from fifteen to sixteen hundred-weight. The cases, when filled, are nailed down, and are ready for shipping.

The principal points to be attended to in making sugar are, first, that the canes be all ripe, and well cleaned from _trash_ and leaves; next, that they be immediately crushed, and not suffered to lie in heaps to heat; and thirdly, that the rollers, and all the passages for the liquor, be well cleansed by washing as often as necessary.

A greater quantity of sugar is shipped from Bahia than from all the other parts of Brazil united, and in general it is of a very good quality; that from certain plantations is particularly so. It is not however, esteemed of so strong a body as our best from the West Indies[69].

The tobacco of this _capitania_ is peculiar to it; and, by an exclusive privilege, no other part of Brazil was allowed to cultivate the same sort. It has given rise to much commerce, and has enriched many families. It was the most esteemed sort, not only in Portugal, but in Spain, and all her colonies, where it has been sold at great prices. Great quantities of it were consumed in Barbary; and on many parts of the coast of Guinea the demand for it was such that it was almost impossible to carry on trade for gold, ivory, gums, and oil without it. The mode of growing and manufacturing it is as follows:—First, a good piece of ground is prepared, the finer dressed the better; the seed is sown broad-cast, and when the plants are about six weeks or two months grown, they are transplanted into ground prepared as before. In eight or ten months they arrive at their full growth, and when ripe the leaves are taken from the stem, which frequently grows from four to seven feet high. They are laid upon the ground, or, in preference, upon any support which will preserve them from absorbing moisture, and admit a free circulation of air underneath. When they become in a slight degree withered, they are twisted with a strong winch, the end of one leaf uniting with the other, and the twist is coiled into a roll weighing from thirty to forty pounds. By this operation the juice of the leaf is expressed, which is viscid, and when oxidated becomes of a black color, not unlike molasses. The tobacco, after this last operation, is fit for commerce.

It is an object highly worthy the attention of the Portuguese government, to introduce other modes of curing tobacco. There can be no doubt that the soil and climate are congenial to it, and, were it properly prepared, it would probably equal any in Virginia, and become as great an article of commerce among the northern nations. Should such a commerce be pursued, how many cargoes of this commodity alone would arrive in our ports, and from thence be distributed to the different markets of Europe!

Cotton has of late been grown here in considerable quantities, and has been sent to England at nearly the same price with that grown in Pernambuco, and its plantations are daily increasing and improving[70].

Here are many plantations of coffee, but it is not esteemed so fine as that from Rio de Janeiro. Rice is produced in tolerable quantity, and its quality is superior: but the husk is so difficult to separate from the grain, that a great part is bruised in the operation, and is thus rendered of less value. The method of cleaning it is bad. Why not apply such mills as those used in Carolina, of which there is now one working at Maranham by steam, that has improved the quality of rice so materially, that it now sells in Europe for nearly the same price as the North American.

The beautiful dye-wood, called Brazil-wood, is shipped from this port and Pernambuco, of a quality much superior to that of Rio de Janeiro. This is one of the articles prohibited from general commerce, being the property of the royal household. Fustic in small quantities is brought from the interior.

The indigo made here is so far inferior to that imported from India as scarcely to be worth mentioning. It is owing to the great quantity of lime in it. There is a general opinion among all who make indigo, that some part of the process is very prejudicial to the health of the negroes, who frequently become sick, and often die while employed in it, which is most probably owing to deleterious gas which escapes during fermentation.

Bahia has a considerable trade with all the ports on the coast, from whence are exported various articles, the prices of which are continually fluctuating. A great number of fine brigs and smaller vessels are employed in this trade.

Produce to a considerable amount was exported to the River Plata, from whence a great quantity of hides and tallow were returned.

The imports to Bahia from Europe consist in general of the same articles with those specified in the description of Rio de Janeiro. In this _capitania_ was found the largest piece of native copper that has ever appeared, being in weight upwards of 2,000lbs. It was discovered several years ago by some persons who were preparing to wash for gold.

To the north of Bahia are the _capitanias_ of Pernambuco, Seará, and Maranham, the interior of which is very little known, though some parts of the coast are tolerably populous. Pernambuco, though situated nearly in the latitude of eight degrees, is considered healthy. The town is built on a rising ground, much exposed, and constantly refreshed by the sea-breeze. It has many excellent edifices, and is supposed to contain more opulent merchants, in proportion to population, than any other place in Brazil. It produces _vanilla_, cocoa, and a considerable quantity of sugar; but the chief article of its trade is cotton, which for many years had the reputation of being superior to any other, but of late it has much deteriorated, from neglect, either in the growth, or in the gathering the pods and cleaning it from the seeds, or probably from general inattention to the whole management of it. The cotton, when ready for packing, is pressed into raw hides, so hard as to form very heavy packages. The operation is superintended by an officer authorised by Government, who puts a stamp upon it describing its quality, which enables the shipper to pass it through the custom-house, where it pays a heavy duty on exportation.

The district of Seará is but little known, it enjoys an extensive trade in cotton and sugar. Maranham, though a very small district, has of late raised itself considerably into eminence by the cultivation of cotton, the other productions are the same as those of Pernambuco. Cotton and rice are the staple articles, with some cocoa and sugar, numerous cargoes of which are annually exported.

The dye-wood of these districts is considered excellent, and is sometimes shipped from this coast. The tree which produces the _annatto_ is very common, and the seeds from which it is washed are of the best quality, and might be obtained in great abundance. Cocoa may be grown in any quantity; capsicum, pimento, ginger, &c. are very plentiful.

The markets are well stored with fish and meat, the latter very indifferent in its kind. Poultry, vegetables, and fruits, are in great abundance.

St. Louis, the capital, is built upon an island, and is esteemed healthy, though so near the equator. Several rivers run into the bay, which afford an eligible conveyance for the produce of the vicinity. The island is said to contain 20,000 inhabitants, and the population in the rivers is by no means inconsiderable.

The _capitania_ of Pará, is considered the largest in Brazil: its extent is imperfectly known. The principal town is called Belem, where the governor resides, and, its government being superior, it may be said to preside over several of the neighbouring districts. The land is low and unhealthy, the great river, or port, is much interrupted by shoals and currents. It is a dangerous coast, and exposed to a continual swell, so as to render it hazardous for ships to anchor upon it, as they roll so much that they not only endanger their masts, but are subject to strain.

The town of Pará is situated on the river Tocantines, the navigation of which is difficult, and is seldom attempted, except by small craft: the Confiance sloop of war with great care sailed up it, and anchored near the town, several days previous to the expedition against Cayenne. The town may contain ten thousand inhabitants, who are in general very poor, probably from want of commerce: for although the great rivers Tocantins and Amazons have their source, the latter in Peru, and the former in the _capitania_ of Goyaz, though they receive almost millions of inferior streams in their course through immense tracts of territory, yet they are not productive of any commerce of consequence. The exports from Pará consist of a considerable quantity of rice, cocoa, cotton, drugs, hides of various sorts, woods, and a few other articles. The trade is much on the increase, and it is to be hoped, that from its vast internal communications, it may be greatly extended, and more ships loaded for Europe, as a cargo is generally rather precarious, and sometimes difficult to be obtained.

The climate is hot, as may well be supposed, from its lying so near the equinoctial. Thunder, with lightning and rain, occurs generally every afternoon, when the air becomes more cool, and the heat less disagreeable.

On conversing with creditable men who had lived many years at Pará, Maranham, and upon the coast, I never heard them relate the strange accounts of the Indians which Estalla has related. As a Spaniard, he seems to be amusing the public with the actions of his own countrymen in Chili, and to aim, in common with all the writers of his nation, to prejudice the world against the Portuguese.

The _capitania_ of Goyaz is bounded chiefly by Minas Geraes on the east, Matto Grosso on the west, and Pará on the north. Its greatest extent in length is from lat. 6° south to 21°. Villa Boa, its principal town, is situated in lat. 16° south, about eighty leagues to the west of Paracatu, from whence there is a good road. Here is a permutation-house, where all the gold found in the _capitania_ is permuted. The governor is elected for three years, after which he is generally appointed to Bahia or Minas Geraes. In the _capitania_ are many gold mines, some of which produce gold of a very fine quality. Diamonds have been found in some parts, which are different in their appearance from those found in Cerro do Frio, having more brilliancy on their exterior; but when cut, they are not in general of so pure a water, though of a very desirable size. As this fine district is so distant from the coast, it has very little commerce in any of its productions, except the valuable substances above mentioned, and cattle, which are bred on the frontiers; also some cotton, and occasionally a few particular articles, which are sent to Rio de Janeiro. The mules on the return-journey, are all loaded with salt, iron, cheap cotton-prints, woollens (particularly baizes), hats, fire-arms, powder, and shot, and a variety of artificers’ tools. When any of the inhabitants have any thing peculiarly precious to dispose of, they generally take it to Rio de Janeiro, and lay out the proceeds chiefly in the purchase of negroes, (they being at all times the first object), iron, salt, and other commodities.

The population is very small in comparison to the extent of the district, but is likely to be increased by new settlers; although the indigent in Villa Rica, Tejuco, and other places in the mining country, are little inclined to remove out of society, even for the chance of riches: in fact, having no negroes fit to work, and being totally destitute of exertion themselves, all situations are to them indifferent. These are by no means the class of people who can be styled adventurers. The poorer class of inhabitants who have obtained a small portion of gold, sometimes make a journey to Paracatu or Villa Rica, to purchase what negroes they want. This _capitania_ has been very little explored, and scarcely any thing is known of its productions beyond what is above stated; indeed, it is not unreasonable to presume that the soil contains the same variety of metals as the district of Minas Geraes. Many persons from thence, with whom I have conversed, speak of it with delight as being a fine country, having numerous rivers well stored with fish, woods abounding with fine birds, which afford excellent diversion to the sportsman; also a great variety of animals.

This _capitania_ communicates with Matto Grosso, S. Paulo, and Pará, by rivers which are navigable, though frequently interrupted by falls.

CHAP. XVIII.

_Geographical Description of the Capitania of Matto Grosso[71]._