Chapter I (10)

We passed through Chapada, a little dirty village, once famous for its washings, as were all the streams and ravines in the vicinity, and proceeded over some good clay-land, and a considerable tract of peat-moss, well watered by streams which burst in all directions from the hills. The country was open, and had a most romantic appearance, caused by a quantity of low rocks of soft pudding-stone, laminated, which lay on the surface in the most irregular forms. These lands were well calculated for pasturage, particularly in the season of abundance, but I was told that the cattle put to graze upon them were frequently stolen by the negroes[48], and that there were many noxious plants in the herbage which proved fatal to the beasts that ate them.

We arrived at the houses of the establishment about eleven in the forenoon, and walked four miles farther to the diamond works, on which a full troop of negroes was then employed. Rio Pardo is a dirty paltry-looking rivulet, which runs into the Rio Velho: in some parts it is confined by shelving rocks of quartz, through which it runs rapidly; in others it takes a serpentine course, and forms eddies, which are called _caldrones_, on account of their resemblance to the cavity of a boiler. The bed of the river, though confined, has a stratum of _cascalho_ of variable thickness, which, after the current has been diverted, is dug up, and washed in the same way as at Jiquitinhonha. The _caldrones_, or holes, formerly eddies, but now partly filled with _cascalho_, so as to be no more than three or four feet deep, are frequently found to contain many diamonds; one of them, which was cleared by four men in as many days, produced one hundred and eighty carats.

Rio Pardo, though paltry and insignificant in its appearance, has produced as large a quantity of the most precious gems as any river in the district. The rough blueish-green-colored diamonds, formerly so much esteemed by the Hollanders, continue to be found here, and the stones of this rivulet are to this day reputed the most valuable in Brazil. The accompanying substances are somewhat different from those of the washings at Mandanga; here is no bean-like iron ore, but a considerable quantity of flinty-slate, like Lydian-stone, in various shapes and sizes, and very small black oxide of iron; the earthy matter is also much finer than at the above place. I was informed that there remained as much unworked ground as would occupy a hundred negroes full twenty years.

Rio Pardo runs about a league to the westward of Capella Velha, which is a chapel on a mountain, washed at its base by a stream, called Corgo de Capella Velha, which some years ago was worked, and produced diamonds of great size and superior brilliancy. The rivulets to the eastward of this ridge of mountains run into the Jiquitinhonha; those to the westward have their course into the Rio Velho, which flows into the Rio de San Francisco. The height of the mountains I had no means of ascertaining, but they are considered as undoubtedly the highest in Brazil. The air in this elevated region is pure and rather keen; the thermometer in the mornings and evenings stood at 62, and at mid-day about 74. In all the parts which I visited, the land appeared favorable for the growth of almost every species of produce, and, if properly inclosed and cultivated, might in no long time become the granary of the district.

On our return to Tejuco I was shown several dwarfish trees, of the height and size of a common crab-tree, with extremely crooked branches; and was informed that they were a species of the _quercus suber_. I cut from them some pieces of bark about an inch in thickness, which were elastic, and actually proved to be cork. It seemed to me a question of considerable interest, whether these trees, if regularly planted and attended to, might not produce cork of as good a quality as that which we obtain from the Mediterranean.

After resting a few days, I accompanied the Intendant to a small diamond work, called Corolina, and returned the same day. This work some years ago produced many good stones, but at present it employs very few people. The mode of washing is exactly the same with that practised at Mandanga.

At Tejuco some tolerably good barley was shown to me; it was not so heavy as that of our best from Norfolk, and was but little known. The Intendant uses it as provender for his mules whenever he can obtain it. On examining the sample, I could not but reflect that, if land so ill-managed produced such barley, how much superior would be the quality of the grain under good management.

At a subsequent period of my visit, the Intendant, with whom malt-liquor is a favorite beverage, expressed a desire to see some of the barley converted into malt, in order to brew beer, and, after repeated solicitations, I undertook to make the experiment. A quantity was procured which I endeavoured to prepare in the best manner that circumstances would allow. Having steeped it the requisite time, I put it on a cold floor, and managed it as is customary in our malt-houses; when it had germinated sufficiently, I dried it over a slow fire; afterwards, having cleansed it from the combs by rubbing, I crushed it, and finally mashed it. The infusion produced a tolerable wort, which, however, I did not deem sufficiently good, as it wanted saccharine matter: this deficiency I supplied by the admixture of a small quantity of sugar. It was then boiled until it was judged of a proper consistency, and a very pleasant bitter was added instead of hops. The fermentation I endeavoured to promote with leaven, which had been prepared a few days before, and, when that process had terminated, the liquor was put into small casks, which we stopped close. Though it might not prove good from the hasty manner in which the process was conducted, yet the mode of preparing it was exemplified, which was the main purpose of the experiment. It appeared to me by no means impossible either to make malt or to brew beer, if proper places were made under-ground, so as to ensure a moderate degree of cold for the operation of malting, and for the subsequent process. Sugar is here so abundant, that any quantity of saccharine matter might be added to improve the poorness of the malt; and it is highly probable that a very pleasant beverage might be made, which would relieve the inhabitants of this remote district from the necessity of having recourse to the metropolis for bad wines, and from the ill effects which proceed from drinking bad spirits distilled in the vicinity.

Many parts of this fine country abound in oranges, pines, peaches, guavas, and a great variety of indigenous fruits, both sweet and acid, particularly the _jaboticaba_, which is very rich in mucilaginous matter; yet no attempt has hitherto been made to obtain wine from any of them. Ginger and pepper grow here spontaneously, and many spices might probably be cultivated with success.

Grass for cattle was as dear at Tejuco as at Rio de Janeiro, and the small quantity which cost eight-pence would scarcely suffice a mule a day. The Intendant and the Captain of the cavalry had each of them about two acres under cultivation, of a species called _Engorda Cavallos_ (fattener of horses), which grew from five to seven feet high, with a thick esculent stem, and long lancet-shaped leaves. It has a large fibrous root, and is well-calculated for stony ground where there is little earth; it even grew among rounded stones that had been washed three years before[49].

The Intendant, who had a taste for rural economy, and more particularly his lady, were very anxious to make their own butter and cheese, and expressed a great desire to be instructed in the process as practised in England, though milk was very scarce; and it was not without much difficulty that, after sending a few miles, about three gallons were collected. In the mean time such household utensils as were most fit for the purpose, having been made ready, and others procured, very excellent butter was produced, and afterwards a few cheeses were made, which there was every reason to suppose would prove good. The lady interested herself greatly in the experiment, not only performing part of the operations, with the assistance of her daughter, but inviting several of her friends in the town to see with what little trouble the processes were performed, and distributing the products among them[50]:—a rare example of industry! I am decidedly of opinion, that, were the females of Brazil better educated, especially in whatever relates to domestic economy, and were they accustomed to see the concerns of a household conducted with regularity and order, they would be better members of society; for I have ever observed in them that inquisitive disposition and desire of information, which may be called the first step to improvement. But what can be expected from ill-educated females, reared from their infancy among negras, in miserable houses, scarcely affording a shelter from the rain, or a shade from the sun, and destitute of every ray of comfort!

In 1815, some iron works were established at the Morro de Pilar, a mountain rich in ore, about twenty-five leagues south of Tejuco, on the road to Villa Rica. The _Observador Portuguese_, vol. xvii. p. 143, contains an interesting account of the festivities which took place when the first sample of iron was brought from thence to the capital of the Diamond District.

CHAP. XIV.

_Some Account of the Districts of Minas Novas and Paracatu.—Of the large Diamond found in the River Abaiti._

IT was my intention to have continued my journey to Minas Novas, and from thence westward to Paracatu, and to have returned by Abaiti, a place that has produced many large diamonds, though generally of inferior quality. This design I was prevented from accomplishing by illness, being attacked with a violent sciatic complaint, accompanied with great debility in the right side, which obliged me to return as soon as possible. While I remained at Tejuco, for the purpose of regaining strength sufficient to encounter the fatigues of a journey back to the capital, I employed myself in collecting information respecting these districts from intelligent persons who resided there, as well as from officers on the establishment. The following brief description is the result of the communications with which they favored me.

The principal village in Minas Novas, called Tocaya, is thirty-five leagues distant from Tejuco, in a north-easterly direction. The road thither is parallel with the river Jiquitinhonha, which runs from two to five leagues westward of it[51]. Numerous rivulets flow into it in this direction, in some of which are found white topazes, more commonly known here by the name of _minas novas_. They are pretty pellucid pebbles, generally rounded, though sometimes they occur perfectly crystallized, in the same form as the yellow topaz. Blue topazes and _aqua-marinas_ are also found here; some of the former are of a singular variety, being in one part blue, and in the other clear and pellucid. This neighbourhood is also noted for producing the beautiful Chrysoberyl, which is much esteemed by the higher orders of society in Brazil, and in great request among the jewellers of Rio de Janeiro. These gems rarely occur crystallized; they sell at considerable prices in their rough state, and are much more valued in America than in England, where, indeed, they are little known, or they would be more highly appreciated, being, when polished, of great brilliancy and exquisite beauty.

To the westward of the river Jiquitinhonha, and opposite the village of Bom Successo, is the Cerro of Santo Antonio, a place much famed for diamonds, which are said to be of an indifferent quality. There are, also, other parts, well known to many of the inhabitants of the district as being rich in these treasures.

The country is very fertile, and produces a great variety of the finest woods for cabinet-works; also numerous fruits, and most exquisite Vanilla, which grows spontaneously. The land, being less elevated[52] than Cerro do Frio, is said to be much warmer, and is highly favorable to the growth of sugar and coffee. The plantations are chiefly of cotton, which is reputed to be equal in color and quality to that of Maranham. It is transported to Rio de Janeiro on mules, and many hundreds of those useful animals are continually employed in this commerce. A troop of loaded mules are full three months, and sometimes four, in going, and the same time in returning. These animals in this district are double the price that they are in S. Paulo. The journeys are attended with considerable expense and difficulty; Indian corn must be daily bought for their use; and, notwithstanding the great attention paid to them on the road, many die, and others are frequently lamed and disabled. Their burdens are divided into two equal parts, and suspended on a pack-saddle of peculiar make by straps of raw hide. The average burden is nine _arrobas_, nearly equal to three hundred pounds weight, the carriage-expense of which, from Rio de Janeiro to Minas Novas, is six or seven pounds sterling; to Tejuco five pounds; to Villa Rica about three.

The trade to Minas Novas from Rio de Janeiro consists principally in negroes, iron, salt, woollens, hats, printed cottons, hardware, arms, and some fancy articles, a little wine and oil, salt-fish, and butter. Few luxuries enter these remote parts, the inhabitants seeking for little beyond mere necessaries.

Minas Novas is under the jurisdiction of the _Ouvidor_ of Villa do Principe, who goes thither once a year to settle disputes, administer justice, and discharge other duties belonging to his office.

At Tocaya the Jiquitinhonha flows into a larger river, called Rio Grande, which, taking an easterly direction, enters the sea in lat. 16° 20´ south, near Porto Seguro. A gentleman with whom I was acquainted undertook to navigate this fine river from Tocaya to the sea, and, as the current was rapid, he performed the task in six days. On his return, which occupied fifteen days, he observed several tributary rivers, the sources of which are unknown, as they rise in the country inhabited by the Indians. The river being free from falls, may in a short time be frequented by vessels from sea, for I did not learn that its entrance was shallow or unfit for navigation; probably the land about it is low and marshy, which may be the reason that it is so little known.

It cannot be too much recommended to the Government of Brazil, immediately to order a survey of this river, which might be performed in one of their launches in two months at little or no expense, and, were it found necessary, a chain of connection might be established from its mouth to Tocaya. The benefits resulting to the inhabitants from opening the navigation may be easily conceived. The produce of the country, its cotton, coffee, and sugar, its rich cabinet-woods, and many other valuable articles, would be brought into active commerce; extensive plantations would be established, and the whole territory would be improved. It is true that the commerce of the district would flow through another channel, and the tolls paid on passing the Paraibuna, to and from the capital, would be a little diminished: but surely the policy of Government is not so confined as to allow that consideration to have any weight against a measure of such national importance, when it is obvious that one of the greatest disadvantages under which the empire of Brazil labors, is the want of traffic on all its rivers, except to Rio Grande de St. Pedro.

The population of Minas Novas is thin, compared with its extent, but is daily increasing. It does not appear that mining is the object which attracts settlers, though there is a considerable quantity of precious stones exported, which are found only here, as has been before observed.

Where the rivers are deep it is very difficult to raise the _cascalho_ from their beds, in order to wash it for gold, &c. for this purpose various trivial and ineffectual methods are practised: it would be highly conducive to the interest of the proprietor, as well as of the state, to have rafts or boats constructed, and to adopt the machinery used by the ballast-heavers on the river Thames[53], by means of which the _cascalho_ might be raised, even from a depth of twenty feet. The requisite iron-work might be prepared in Rio de Janeiro, (if necessary,) and admitted into the mining country, free of duty: there would probably be such an increase of gold obtained by it, that the proportionate augmentation of the royal fifths would amply repay the expense of introducing the improvement.

Paracatu is the principal village or town of a district of the same name, which lies about ninety leagues north-west of Tejuco, bordering on the _Capitania_ of Goyazes, from which it is separated by a chain of high mountains that take a northerly direction. The numerous rivers which rise on the eastern side of the mountains, and flow into the great river S. Francisco, are rich in gold. The population of the village is estimated at above a thousand souls, and will shortly be more numerous, as the reputed richness of some late discoveries has tempted many families to migrate thither. It has all the advantages of a high and healthy situation, in the midst of a most fertile country, and has considerable intercourse with Sabará and Villa Rica, where the gold procured in its vicinity is permuted. It is governed by a _Capitao Mor_, who is subordinate to the governor of the latter place, to whom all disputes of consequence are referred. To the southward is the rich _destacamento_ of Rio da Prata, a river that yields fine diamonds, and has been much frequented by many adventurers, who, when discovered and seized, are called _grimpeiros_ (smugglers). A strong guard of soldiers is stationed here to prevent the precious stones from being sought for clandestinely.

A few leagues to the north of the Rio Prata is the rivulet named Abaité, celebrated for having produced the largest diamond in the Prince’s possession, which was found about twelve years ago. Though this circumstance has been already briefly stated, it may be allowed me in this place to relate the particulars as they were detailed to me during my stay at Tejuco. Three intelligent men, having been found guilty of high crimes, were banished into the interior, and ordered not to approach any of the capital towns, or to remain in civilized society, on pain of perpetual imprisonment. Driven by this hard sentence into the most unfrequented part of the country, they endeavoured to explore new mines or new productions, in the hope that, sooner or later, they might have the good fortune to make some important discovery, which would obtain a reversal of their sentence, and enable them to regain their station in society. They wandered about in this neighbourhood, making frequent searches in its various rivers for more than six years, during which time they were exposed to a double risk, being continually liable to become the prey of the Anthropophagi, and in no less danger of being seized by the soldiers of Government. At length they by hazard made some trials in the river Abaité, at a time when its waters were so low, in consequence of a long season of drought, that a part of its bed was left exposed. Here, while searching and washing for gold, they had the good fortune to find a diamond nearly an ounce in weight. Elated by this providential discovery, which at first they could scarcely believe to be real, yet, hesitating between a dread of the rigorous laws relating to diamonds, and a hope of regaining their liberty, they consulted a clergyman, who advised them to trust to the mercy of the state, and accompanied them to Villa Rica, where he procured them access to the governor. They threw themselves at his feet, and delivered to him the invaluable gem on which their hopes rested, relating all the circumstances connected with it. The governor, astonished at its magnitude, could not trust the evidence of his senses, but called the officers of the establishment to decide whether it was a diamond, who set the matter beyond all doubt. Being thus, by the most strange and unforeseen accident, put in possession of the largest diamond ever found in America, he thought proper to suspend the sentence of the men as a reward for their having delivered it to him. The gem was sent to Rio de Janeiro, from whence a frigate was dispatched with it to Lisbon, whither the holy father was also sent to make the proper representations respecting it. The sovereign confirmed the pardon of the delinquents, and bestowed some preferment on the worthy sacerdote.

The governor immediately ordered a guard on the river, which was soon afterwards worked under the direction of the Intendant of Cerro do Frio, who sent thither an administrator and two hundred negroes. It has since been worked at different periods with various success; sometimes large diamonds have been found, but of an indifferent quality. The work, being considered unprofitable, is now abandoned by Government, but it yet gives occupation to numbers of adventurers. Its neighbourhood has many interesting places, hitherto but little explored.

A few leagues from this river is a very rich vein of lead ore in calcareous spar. I have seen pieces of it of the weight of twenty pounds, and it is said to be so abundant, that any quantity may be obtained. Some of the specimens presented to me were covered with carbonate of lead. It has not the appearance of being rich in silver. No one has undertaken to work it, as the difficulty and expense of conveying the metal to Rio de Janeiro, would exceed the price at which it would sell for at present in that market[54]. When the neighbourhood becomes more populous, and the value of this useful metal is better known, the mine will probably be a source of riches; for lead ore is certainly scarce in Brazil, nor did I hear of any other place which produces it.

The river St. Francisco is very considerable, and is said to contain great quantities of fish[55], which is a sufficient proof that there are but few (if any) gold-washings in it. On the banks, and in the country to the eastward, great numbers of cattle are bred, which are sold in all the populous towns of the captaincy, and large herds are sent to Rio de Janeiro, a distance of above six hundred miles. A considerable commerce is carried on with them, and some families, who raise large numbers, are reported to have acquired great fortunes by it. The want of salt is a very general complaint; it is requisite for the cattle, nor will they breed well without it.

This district is too far distant from a sea-port to enjoy any extent of commerce in the general articles of its produce. Gold and precious stones are easily transported, but lead, and other commodities of greater bulk and inferior value, would scarcely pay the expense of carriage. Hence no cotton, coffee, or sugar is grown for exportation, and the quantity consumed in the district is very limited, owing to the small number of the inhabitants, and the miserable indigence in which they generally live, their common diet being Indian corn-flour, boiled beans, and a little pork. The trade to Rio de Janeiro is much similar to that of Minas Novas, and consists chiefly in iron, salt, cotton-prints, woollens, arms, hardware, and a few trivial luxuries: also hats and India goods. Persons of all ranks are eager to purchase negroes. The only articles sent to Villa Rica are gold-dust and hides.

In this district, and in other parts of these immense territories, particularly to the eastward, are large tracts of land _devoluto_, or not occupied by any person under a grant from government. These lands to a considerable extent (half a league to a league square) may be taken by making proper application, and afterwards held as freehold. Other excellent situations are in the possession of indigent people, who are equally incapable and unwilling to reap advantage from them. These may be bought very cheap, and are certainly preferable to the unoccupied tracts, as they have generally some few conveniences attached to them, and may, therefore, more easily be brought into a proper state of cultivation. Here is every inducement for a spirited and experienced agriculturist to settle: a rich and fertile district, in which there remains much to be discovered in every department, where all the necessaries, and many of the luxuries of life are produced almost spontaneously; and where the exertions of industry would be rewarded in a tenfold degree by the bounteous hand of nature, and stimulated by the certain hope of arousing a slender population to follow the example. Nor could there be any objection on the score of differences in opinion; for I am persuaded that no one would here be molested for his religious tenets, while he prudently avoided giving offence, and paid the same regard to the conscience of his neighbour which he expected for his own.

CHAP. XV.

_Observations on Tejuco and Cerro do Frio_.

IN the foregoing pages I have endeavoured to present to the reader a narrative of whatever I observed worthy of note in the Diamond District, and have related the several particulars in the order in which they occurred to me, reserving the task of general description for that period of my residence there when I might be supposed best qualified to perform it. This mode of proceeding will expose me to the risk of a few repetitions, for which my apology must rest on the peculiar circumstances under which I visited Tejuco,—on the continual journeys in which I was occupied from the moment of my arrival to the time when I was attacked by illness, and which left me no leisure for combining my actual observations with general views of the country.

The district of Cerro do Frio consists of rugged mountains, that have a northerly and southerly direction, and are generally allowed to be the highest in Brazil. What is termed the Diamond ground, extends about sixteen leagues from north to south, and about eight from east to west. It was first explored by some enterprising miners from Villa do Principe, a few years after the establishment of that town. These men proceeding northerly found an open country, watered by many small rivulets, which they tried for gold by washing: some of them engaged their attention for a short time, but not proving sufficiently rich, they continued their route, passing the places now called San Gonçalo and Milho Verde, until they arrived at a few streams that flow from the base of the mountain on which Tejuco is built. These rivulets were then washed for gold, and were considered as belonging to the district of Villa do Principe. No idea was at first entertained that the rivulets contained diamonds, although it is said that some were collected and presented to the then governor of Villa do Principe as curious bright stones, and were used by him as counters at cards. Soon afterwards a few of them found their way to Lisbon, and were given as pretty pebbles to the Dutch minister to send to Holland, which was then the principal mart in Europe for precious stones. The lapidaries, to whom they were presented for examination, pronounced these pebbles to be very fine diamonds. Information was accordingly sent to the Dutch consul at Lisbon, who did not fail to profit by the occasion; for he managed the affair with Government so well, that he contracted for the precious stones, at the same time that he communicated the intelligence. Government afterwards endeavoured to monopolize the diamonds, and made a distinct district of Cerro do Frio, placing it under peculiar laws and regulations.

The number of diamonds sent over during the first twenty years after the discovery is said to be almost incredible, and to exceed one thousand ounces in weight. This supply could not fail to diminish the general value of diamonds, as none had ever before been known to come from any other part of the globe, except India, whither the Brazilian diamonds were afterwards sent, and found a better market there than in Europe.

By stratagems and intrigues Government was prevailed on to let these invaluable territories to a company, who were under stipulations to work with a limited number of negroes, or to pay a certain sum per day for every negro employed. This opened a door to every species of fraud; double the stipulated number of negroes was admitted; and this imposition was connived at by the agents of Government, who received pay in one hand and bribes in the other. Presents were made to men possessing influence at court, by the contractors, who soon became rich; and they continued (subject to a few regulations) in possession of the diamond mines until about the year 1772, when, Government determining to take them into their own hands, these contracts were ended.

This was the time for reforming abuses, and for placing this rich district under the best regulations, but it was neglected; prejudice prevailed over prudence; and the management was entrusted to men who did not understand the real interests of the concern, or, what is more probable, who were so shackled in their authority, that they could not pursue them. From this time, affairs became worse, and the establishment was in debt to foreigners, who had advanced a considerable sum of money on the security of having all the diamonds which the mines produced. There were other incumbrances, which can be removed only by a total change of system. In its present state the establishment appears to produce much greater wealth than it actually does. During a period of five years, from 1801 to 1806 inclusive, the expenses were £204,000; and the diamonds sent to the treasury at Rio de Janeiro weighed 115,675 carats. The value of gold found in the same period amounted to £17,300 sterling, from which it appears that the diamonds actually cost Government thirty-three shillings and nine-pence per carat. These years were esteemed singularly productive; the mines do not in general yield to Government more than 20,000 carats annually[56].

The town is under the absolute government of the Intendant. The principal officers of the civil and military establishments are, an _ouvidor_ or _fiscal_, a captain of cavalry, and a _capitao mor_. In the Diamond establishment there is a great number of officers, of whom the following are the principal: 1st, the Intendant, who is a judge, and intendant-general of the Diamond district (this office is one of the best in the gift of the crown): 2d. the Treasurer, whose situation is almost a sinecure; he receives 8,000 crusades _per annum_: and 3d. the Administrator-general, who has a salary of 6000. The book-keeper has 4,000; and three clerks, or key-keepers, have from 800 to 1,000 each. These officers are employed in whatever relates to the treasury, or to the general concerns of the establishment; they all reside in Tejuco, and are the most respectable of the inhabitants. The management of the different works is entrusted to eight or ten under-administrators, each having in his care two hundred negroes, called a troop; to which, besides a clergyman and a surgeon, are attached several overseers and subordinate officers, who have salaries of from 400 to 200 crusades. The privilege of employing a certain number of negroes in the works is common to all the officers, to an extent corresponding with their rank; the superior officers let to hire as many as they please, say forty, and sometimes upwards of fifty; the inferior officers are permitted to let out two or three, in preference to other individuals; a decidedly bad practice, as will be shown hereafter.

The Intendant holds a place of great trust: he is the superior magistrate, and his duty is to administer justice, and to see that the laws peculiar to the district are duly executed. He is of course president of the assembly, or juncta, and calls meetings whenever he thinks proper; he disposes of the military force of the district, orders roads to be made or stopped, and stations guards on them to examine travellers, and to detain suspicious persons. He has also the privilege of giving or refusing permission for persons to enter the district, or settle in it; and every one, however high in rank and property, who passes thither is supposed to have the Intendant’s express concurrence, which, as a matter of form, is sometimes dispensed with. He appoints officers, signs all papers, receives all reports that are made, and acts accordingly. To him solely the treasury is entrusted for the payment of the salaries of the officers, the negroes’ wages, tradesmen’s bills, and every incidental expense attending the establishment. He issues paper-money, and withdraws it from circulation whenever he thinks proper; for all which he is responsible to Government alone, and may be said to be almost absolute in his office.

In addition to these important functions, the present Intendant has assumed the whole direction and regulation of the mining concern, which none of his predecessors ever practically interfered with, it being the peculiar province of the Administrator-general. For this undertaking he is equally qualified by the superiority of his talents, and by the extent of his acquirements: he studied mineralogy many years under the celebrated Werner, by whom he was considered as one of his most enlightened disciples; afterwards he travelled through Hungary, and all the most interesting German states; and, lastly, made the tour of England and Scotland, where he resided two years.

The Administrator-general, to whom belong the management and direction of the works, ought to be equally experienced in mining and mechanics, particularly in hydraulics: he should be a man of general information, combined with great practical knowledge, relative to the locality of the district, so as to be able to ascertain the real value of every situation, and to direct the operations accordingly. He should have a mind fertile in resources, and prepared to meet every disappointment or casualty that can possibly occur, that the time of the negroes may not be employed in vain; he should also facilitate their labors by the introduction of machinery, and should be particularly attentive to their good treatment, since on them his success, and consequently his reputation, must in a great measure depend.

On this latter point humanity and policy ought alike to direct the attention of the superiors of the establishment. It is natural to suppose that negroes, when treated with harshness, ill fed and ill clothed, will be indifferent to the interests of their employers, and, perhaps, determined not to find diamonds, whereas, when subjected to milder and kinder usage, which might be done without relaxing in vigilance, they would become anxious to please, and would search more diligently in order to obtain notice and reward. It must be obvious that negroes rarely conceal diamonds for _themselves_; and yet custom has rendered the feelings of their real owners in Tejuco so irritable, on being suspected to encourage the practice, that if the word _grimpeiro_ (smuggler) is mentioned in conversation, they shudder with horror and distort their features, calling on the Virgin to witness their abhorrence of a crime to which Government has attached the greatest disgraces and punishments.

Pure, honest souls! Being a stranger in the country, I conceived that these gentlemen really felt the sentiments which their words and gestures expressed; and, as persons of all ranks seemed to fear conversing on the subject, I thought at first that I should not see a single diamond in all Tejuco, except those in the treasury; but a little acquaintance with the town soon convinced me that I was a novice; for, on visiting a few friends to whom I had introductions, I found that diamonds were bartered for every thing, and were actually much more current than specie. Even pious indulgencies were bought with them; and surely no one could have suspected that the seller of His Holiness’s bulls would condescend to taste the forbidden fruits of Tejuco.

As I had the honor to reside at the house of the Intendant, I was considered by the people of the town as a person connected with Government, and therefore as one who ought not to be informed of the secret traffic among them; hence, when in company with the officers of the establishment, whenever the word _grimpeiro_ was mentioned, I found it necessary to manifest the same feelings of disgust which they did; and, on expressing my surprise that any one could so far degrade himself as to be guilty of the crime of smuggling diamonds, it was tacitly agreed that no white man could stoop to such dishonor. The point was soon settled; for I found it best not to oppose general opinions, nor to enter too minutely on delicate subjects; and it was sometimes expedient for me to seem regardless of what I was most steadfastly looking at.

In Tejuco there are about nine or ten principal shopkeepers, to whom the establishment itself, and the officers belonging to it, are frequently indebted; indeed, these men receive the greater part of the money due to the various persons employed in the works, in exchange chiefly for English commodities of one description or other. The establishment is paid once a year, and for this purpose a sum not less than 300,000 crusades is sent from Villa Rica, to which may be added 60,000 or 100,000 more, found in the gold mines of the district. The greater part of this money flowing into the hands of the shopkeepers, as above stated, is immediately employed in a way injurious to the interests of Government; nor can worse policy be imagined than that of allowing so large an expenditure in a place which offers such temptations.

Some years ago many gold-mines were washed in this district, but as information was given that diamonds were found in them, they were ordered to be abandoned. At present more equitable measures are adopted, and the proprietors are commencing to work some of them again, under an agreement to give up whatever diamonds they find.[57]

There is a general order to work all the gold-mines which were formerly confiscated, and this measure will, it is hoped, increase the quantity of gold, and have a good effect in every respect.

If Government are obliged to hire negroes wherever they can obtain them, (which appears to be the case), it would be at least expedient to have a store to supply them, in order that the money paid in wages to them might return into the funds of the establishment.

The hiring of negroes to the diamond works is the favorite occupation of all ranks in Tejuco; rich and poor endeavour to engage in it to as great an extent as their property will allow. The pay of the slaves is trifling compared with the risk, their labor being heavy, their maintenance poor, and their treatment harsh; there must, therefore, be some temptation not openly seen, yet as well known as light from darkness. Numbers of persons are thus induced to reside in Tejuco under various pretexts, but with no other real view than to get their negroes into the service, and to live idly on their wages, and on what they conceal or pick up. Thus all fatten upon the pasture, except those in the extreme of indigence, and others who, from the neglect of economy, are always poor. There are a numerous class, from the age of seven years to upwards of twenty, who are without any visible means of earning their subsistence, and would remain idle even if manufactories were established; for though they are brought up from their infancy with negro-children, yet in the working department they would abandon their former play-fellows. The people in general are rendered more averse from habits of regular industry by the continual hopes which they indulge of becoming opulent by some fortunate discovery of mines; these fallacious ideas, which they instil into the minds of their children, strongly prejudice them against labor, though they all exist miserably, and not unfrequently depend upon donations. Their education is extremely limited: they are in general total strangers to the sciences, and are very scantily informed on any useful subject.

As the object of my journey into this district was to examine into the real state of affairs, and to give a true report of them on my return, for which purpose I was furnished with many privileges never allowed to any person before, and was thus enabled to see all that I desired, humanity requires that I should make some observations on the fate of those unfortunate persons who have been tempted to smuggle diamonds, and have been caught in the act. I even mentioned the subject to His Excellency, the minister, on my return to Rio de Janeiro; but as his occupations were great, and the state of my health required me to leave the country immediately, nothing more was said of it.

The great demand for these precious articles, and the facility of secreting them, have caused them to be searched for and carried away in violation of the existing laws of the country. Of the numbers who have engaged in this illicit traffic, from an eager desire to become rich at once, many have eluded the vigilance of the guards, and have finished their career with credit and opulence; others less fortunate have been detected, and have incurred the punishment annexed to the offence, namely, the surrender of their illegally acquired treasure, the confiscation of their whole property, and exile to Africa, or confinement, perhaps for life, in a loathsome prison. Mild as are the criminal laws of Brazil, the latter part of this sentence is an exception at which human nature shudders. Surely, when a poor wretch, who has been tempted to this offence, has atoned for it by the loss of all he possessed, he has suffered sufficiently without being subjected to the forfeiture of personal liberty, and to all the woes incident to hopeless captivity. Far be it from me to countenance any infringement on the laws which have been established for the protection of property, either public or private; to respect the institutions of whatever nation I may live in, I hope I shall always be among the first, and to encourage others to disregard them, the very last; for illicit trade of every description is a deceitful and dangerous pursuit, the sweets of which are ever attended with a counteracting portion of evils. The object of my reasoning is to shew that these degraded persons have been of service to the state, and may still be rendered useful to it. May it be permitted me to enquire who were the discoverers of perhaps all the diamond mines which have enriched the caskets of the royal family of Portugal beyond comparison with those of any other state, and which have not only augmented the revenues of the government, but have proved the source from which many respectable and enterprising individuals have derived their opulence? Adventurers, who, at great risk and with indefatigable toil, have penetrated unknown forests, and explored deep ravines among the haunts of the savage Anthropophagi, in search of gold-mines, and in them have by chance found diamonds. When a place of this description has been once discovered by these men, it seldom remains long secret; the agents of Government take possession of it, and either work it immediately, or guard it until a future occasion. The discoverer of course flies from the place; and if he have picked up a few stones, or robbed the earth of some of its most brilliant rarities, he will seek the best and safest means of procuring value for them. If he be a man of sufficient property, he will hire a few mules, load them with cotton, bacon, and other commodities, and proceed to Rio de Janeiro in regular form. On his arrival there, he enters some good house in which he has confidence, and disposes of his concealed treasure. His mind is then relieved from apprehension, and he begins to make preparations for his return. His first care is to lay out his money to the best advantage; negroes are his chief object, and these pay a duty to the state on their leaving Angola, and another of ten _milreis_ each on entering the mining country. If they be employed in mining, Government obtains a fifth of the gold found, and if in agriculture, a tenth of the produce is exacted. The next object of the adventurer is to lay in a stock of woollens, and other English manufactures, which pay a duty of fifteen _per cent._ on being landed, and are subject to another, according to their weight, on entering the territory of the mines. Thus it really appears that most of the contraband property is divided between the state and the smuggler: but this is not all; the diamonds are sent out of the country, and real effects of value are received in return, leaving a balance entirely in favor of Brazil.

This illicit trade has been carried on to a very considerable extent: there is a strong presumptive authority for stating that, since the first discovery of the mines, diamonds to the amount of two millions sterling have thus found their way to Europe, exclusive of what the contractors accounted for. This has been owing to the ill management of the whole establishment, and to the total want of necessary regulations, which have prevailed so long, that it will not be easy to apply a remedy. Let us suppose for a moment the system to be changed; the two thousand negroes employed in the establishment to be the property of the crown (whom two years’ profit of the diamond mines would be adequate to purchase); these negroes to be supplied with every article for their support from a general store, and to be treated as mildly as possible; they would then form a society, and, knowing no other masters than their officers, would have only one common interest to serve. The contraband trade by this means, though perhaps not totally destroyed, would receive an irrecoverable blow, and would be reduced almost to nothing. Should such a change take place, the shopkeepers, and those persons who subsist by hiring negroes to the works, would find the source of their emoluments dried up, and, rather than remain at Tejuco, would migrate to situations more congenial to their interests: thus the district would be freed from that bane which has so long overrun it, and Government would reap the advantage of having the mines worked by their own negroes, whom it would be difficult for others to seduce.

Another evil which such a change of system would be calculated to remove, is the following:—Every article of sustenance required for the establishment is purchased of farmers who reside a few leagues from Tejuco, or who have farms at a greater distance; and this absurd practice is the cause of much unnecessary intercourse. There are thousands of acres of excellent land in the vicinity of the diamond works, having choice of situation, and fit for the growth of every species of produce. How well might a part of the force above-mentioned be occasionally spared for a few days only, to be employed in the first operations of husbandry, which would be, to inclose a sufficient quantity of ground in various parts for the maintenance of the establishment. A certain number of negroes would be allotted, in proportion to the land under cultivation, and on particular occasions, as in harvest, an auxiliary force would be always at hand. This would be farming with double advantage; the plough would work instead of the hoe; after-crops would be sown to be eaten off the ground, which would thus be enriched and kept in good condition. Numbers of acres would be planted with artificial grass, subject to irrigation where that was practicable, and thus, contrary to the general practice, the cattle would be provided with subsistence in the dry season. Indian corn, wheat, mandioca, feijones, potatoes, &c. would be cultivated, and, under proper management, would yield crops equal to the most sanguine expectation. Storehouses, with requisite conveniences, would soon be erected, in which the grain might be kept without spoiling. Thus would the first principles of husbandry be introduced into the district, and prove a source of more lasting benefit to the state than mines either of gold or diamonds, for when the latter were exhausted there would remain an active and industrious population. It seems, indeed, to have been the purpose of nature, in distributing these precious substances in these remote and almost unknown parts, to allure civilized men to settle upon them.

From the circumstances which have been already explained, it will appear that, under the present system, the Government pay for all the diamonds that are found here, and probably receive little more than one-half; therefore it is evident that those conveyed through other channels can be sold to the public at a lower price than that at which the former are obtained. But the embarrassed state of the establishment is such, that the managers cannot lessen their expenses, being obliged to take credit for every article, and to hire almost any negroes that are offered. These evils have taken too deep root to be eradicated, even by the abilities of the present Intendant: had such a man been placed here forty years ago, empowered to act without control, and to govern the district as private property, on the principles above stated, he might have rendered it a province both rich and independent.

As all the diamonds found in these works belong to the crown, the royal family have been accustomed to select from the quantity annually remitted whatever stones they considered worthy their notice, which were generally those exceeding seventeen carats. They were formerly sent to Holland to be cut, the Dutch being the contractors of the diamonds, from the first discovery of the mines; but since the emigration of the court to Rio de Janeiro, that trade has been transferred to England, where these precious stones annually arrive, and are sold by private contract.

The collection of diamonds now in the possession of the Prince Regent is unequalled in number, size, and quality, by that of any potentate in the world; and I am credibly informed that it exceeds in estimated value three millions sterling.

This district has a direct communication with Bahia, and a few troops of mules are continually employed in going from one place to the other. The journey is much longer than to Rio de Janeiro, but the country is less mountainous; there are fewer _ranchos_ or hovels on the road, and in one part it is requisite to carry fresh water for two days’ consumption. The commodities sent from Tejuco to Minas Novas are very trivial, consisting of smuggled gold, chrysoberyls, topazes, amethysts, and other stones; in return for which are brought English fine manufactured goods, particularly hats, printed cottons, stockings, and saddles, which have been much cheaper in Bahia than in England. Coarser articles are generally sent from Rio de Janeiro, the distance being, as before observed, much shorter.

Of navigable rivers we can say but little. The many small streams, that rise in various parts, join and form the Jiquitinhonha, which, as before observed, may be navigated to sea, without any impediment, in at most ten days’ time. How much would the country be benefited if a port were established at the entrance of this river, and vessels were allowed to load and unload; canoes would find their way from thence into the interior in the short space of twenty days, loaded with every article necessary for the consumption of the district. How superior would this mode of conveyance be to that of making roads through impervious woods, and over almost impassable mountains. How many thousands of crusades annually expended on mules would be thus saved to the public, and what numbers of men would thus be trained for the service of the marine, instead of those now employed as muleteers. With the advantage of such a communication, Minas Novas and Cerro do Frio would soon more than double their population, and it might be anticipated that the banks of these fine rivers, now lying deserted and useless, would bloom with every variety of vegetation, which this genial climate is capable of producing.

Under the present system Tejuco ought to maintain itself, and have the least possible intercourse with other places. Its commerce ought to be confined wholly to gold and precious stones; but should Government determine to make diamonds a free trade, then a contrary policy would be requisite. On this subject I shall, in the sequel, have some observations to make.