Chapter I: Front Matter

=TRAVELS=
IN
=WESTERN AFRICA,=
ETC.

G. WOODFALL, ANGEL COURT, SKINNER STREET, LONDON.

BOKARI THE KARTAN GUIDE.

_Published Feb. 1825. by John Murray, London._]

_Published as the act directs, March 15th. 1825. by John Murray Albemarle Street, London._

_J. Walker Sculpt._]

=TRAVELS=
IN
=WESTERN AFRICA,=
IN THE YEARS 1818, 19, 20, AND 21,
FROM THE
RIVER GAMBIA, THROUGH WOOLLI, BONDOO, GALAM,
KASSON, KAARTA, AND
FOOLIDOO, TO THE RIVER NIGER.

BY
MAJOR WILLIAM GRAY,
AND THE LATE
STAFF SURGEON DOCHARD.

WITH A MAP, DRAWINGS, AND COSTUMES, ILLUSTRATIVE
OF THOSE COUNTRIES.

Quòd si deficiant vires, audacia certè

Laus erit in magnis, et voluisse sat est.

PROP.

LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET
MDCCCXXV.

WITH SENTIMENTS OF THE HIGHEST RESPECT
AND THE MOST SINCERE GRATITUDE,
THE AUTHOR OF THE FOLLOWING PAGES
HAS, BY PERMISSION, DEDICATED THEM
TO THE
RIGHT HON. THE EARL BATHURST,
HIS MAJESTY’S PRINCIPAL SECRETARY OF STATE
FOR THE COLONIES.

=PREFACE.=

In offering to the public the following pages, it may be necessary to state the motives which operated to my acceptance of that important command, which it will be their business to disclose. Though not born in the camp, nor altogether educated in the field, I have been early taught in that frankness which generally characterises the soldier, and, I trust, it will be found that, in all I describe, I have never deviated from strictly acting on that honourable and faithful basis.

I had reached the shores of Africa, in my tour of service, well remembering on my passage the labours and researches of the informed and the brave who perished in the exalted struggle of benefiting their country and the benighted Africans; while, at the same time, I could not help reflecting on the disappointing results which often attend the best directed human exertions. The brave and the scientific were gone; their country consecrated their labours, though partially abortive; and the enterprising mind felt no alarm in tracing their progress, while a chance remained of redeeming their fate by more successful exertions. Greece and Rome alternately fought and conquered, and were subdued by arms, the short summary of most nations’ history, while it remained for the British Government alone to extend their empire through the enlightened agency of moral sway, of civil institutes, and Christian regulations, and convey to the hapless, the neglected, and the enslaved, the highest blessings which can dignify, improve, or adorn man.

Warmed with those feelings, I felt an honourable pride in being entrusted with a command to explore the uncultivated regions of Western Africa. It was a task of peril, but the measure of danger was the measure of honour; and with a strong distrust of my own capacity I accepted the office of conducting the expedition. As soon as I became acquainted with its objects, it may be naturally supposed that I felt some uneasiness; but such were the measures taken by a superior commander, _now no more_, that any insufficiency on my part was compensated by the wisdom of a gallant and enlightened officer. The objects of the mission were not the mere acquisition of territory, or the unfair advantage of commerce; they were the improvement of science, the enlargement of trade, and the consequent diffusion of increased happiness to the African population. The sceptic in religion, and the would-be renovator of politics, may think differently on this subject; but every rational individual must feel that British life, British talent, and British treasure, would not be employed in such a quarter if there were not every wish to benefit and improve the condition of our degraded fellow creatures.

In undertaking this mission I was not employed to create a fabulous history, or describe romantic scenery; I was employed to glean and collect facts; to effect discovery when it was possible; to note down nothing which might not lead to some useful result; and, in the end, to draw such honest inferences as will, I humbly venture to trust, be found throughout these pages.

With the wisdom of all the previous plans adopted in exploring Western Africa I have nothing to do, and for that in which I was engaged, I only feel myself responsible as far as the resources placed within my reach. A difficult duty was assigned me; I attempted its execution; and, be the results satisfactory or not, I can safely say that my best exertions were in no case wanting to meet the views of those high authorities at home and abroad who confided its performance to me. If I have partially failed, the failure is attributable to circumstances, which will be fully developed in the sequel. I shall say nothing of my sufferings and privations; but after all I have witnessed, I feel deeply impressed with the generous sentiments and wishes of his Majesty’s Government towards all who need their aid, and I entertain a fervent hope that to future travellers in Africa my humble endeavours may prove a source of more ample success than it has fallen to my lot to achieve.

I cannot conclude, without regretting the premature death of my friend and companion Staff Surgeon Dochard, who but a few months after my return from Africa, fell a victim to the consequences of the sufferings and privations he endured on the missions under the command of Major Peddie, Captain Campbell, and myself. I particularly felt the want of that assistance in preparing our several notes for the press, which he was so fully able to afford me. The importance of his notes have not, however, been altogether lost, though they are still deprived of much of that value which his reconsideration would no doubt have imparted to them. Such as he left them, they are faithfully preserved, and have been used in the narrative with the same attention as my own.

W. GRAY, MAJOR.

=CONTENTS.=

* * * * *

CHAPTER I.
PAGE

Arrival of the Expedition at Senegal — Delay there — A
Messenger despatched to Sego — Departure from Senegal, and
Arrival at the Rio Nunez — Town of Tallabunchia — Major
Peddie’s Death — Sickness of the Men and Officers — Departure
from Robugga — Difficulties on the March — Arrival at the 1
Panjetta.

CHAPTER II.

Halt at the Panjetta — Return of Messengers sent to the
Capital — His Majesty’s Answer — Great Scarcity of Provisions
— Another Messenger sent, with Presents to the King — Captain
Campbell’s interview with Omerhoo Kano — Reports about the
Intentions of the Expedition — Captain Campbell goes to see
the King — Arrival of the Messenger from Sego — Captain
Campbell’s Return — No satisfactory Answer — Illness of the
Officers — Lieutenant Stokoe and Mr. Kummer sent to the Coast
— Captain Campbell decides on retracing his steps — Departure
from the Panjetta — Arrival at Kakundy — Death of Captain
Campbell — Departure for, and Arrival at Sierra Leone —
Description of Foota Jallon. 25

CHAPTER III.

Major Gray takes the Command — Departure from Sierra Leone
— Arrival at Bathurst St. Mary’s — Occurrences there —
Departure for, and Arrival at Kayaye — Description of a
tribe of wandering Foolahs — Description of Kayaye, the
surrounding Country, and Inhabitants — Their Amusements,
&c. — Visit to Katoba — The King’s Visit to us — Arrival of
Camels from Senegal — Our Guide’s proposal respecting the path
— My Decision, and Reasons — Fatality among our Animals —
Arrival of Mr. Partarrieau from St. Mary’s — Arrangements for 43
Departure.

CHAPTER IV.

The Expedition leaves Kayaye — Difficulty in procuring Water
at Jaroomy — Arrival and Halt at Coonting — Description of
that Town and surrounding Country — Civility of the Chief
— Departure from Coonting — Deaths among the Animals, and
difficulty of procuring Carriers — Arrival at the Wallea Creek
— Attempt of some People to stop us — Pass the Creek — Cane
Bridge — Attempt at Murder by one of our native Civilians,
and his Desertion — Enter the Kingdom of Woolli — Arrival at
Madina, the Capital — Transactions and difficulties there
— Description of the Town, and the Mumbo Jumbo Ceremony —
Departure from Madina, and theft by the Natives — Arrival at
Kussaye. 63

CHAPTER V.

Departure from Kussaye — Pass through the Simbani Woods —
Loss of Camels — Ruins of Muntobe — Leave Muntobe — Arrive
at Sansanding — Halt there — Our Woolli guides leave us —
Discharge of Corporal Harrop — Arrival at Sabee, the first
Town of Bondoo — Loss of Animals — Opposition on the part of
our Guides to our moving thence — Arrival at Loonchea — Death
of the Camels — Supply of provisions from Almamy — Mr. Dochard
sent in advance with a present to Almamy — Departure from
Loonchea — Arrival at Dachadoonga — Difficulty and delay in
carrying forward the Baggage — Description of the Red Water,
and its use — Arrival at Goodeerri — Mr. Dochard returns from
the Capital — Arrival of Almamy’s eldest Son — Transactions
with Almamy and difficulty in arranging matters with him
— Departure from Goodeerri, and arrival at Boolibany, the
Capital of Bondoo. 94