Chapter XVI

Oulasso. — Facibrisso. — Toumané. — Implements of husbandry. — Couara. — Koraba. — Douasso. — Kong. — Baunan. — Garo. — Forges. — Nibakhasso.

About two o’clock in the afternoon, we left the village of Mouriosso, and proceeded in the direction of E.N.E. over a hard soil, composed of grey earth mixed with sand, and studded with ferruginous stones and gravel. It was barren in the extreme. About six in the evening we halted at Oulasso, a village, the huts of which are enclosed and built like those of Mouriosso, and containing three or four hundred inhabitants. In this village we found a caravan of Mandingo traders coming from the south, where they had been buying colat-nuts, which they intended to sell at Jenné. A large hut was assigned to us; but we could not stay in it on account of the heat and smoke. The fire was lighted at the further end of the hut, which might be about twenty feet long by eight broad, and the smoke had no outlet but the door. The fire consequently produced the same effect as a furnace. I passed the night under a mimosa, which grew before our hut, having covered myself with my wrapper, for the air was cool.

As the village was too small to afford lodging for two caravans several of the merchants slept, like myself, in the open air; however, they took the precaution of lighting fires. These fires, glimmering through the village, had a very curious effect. They served for the women to cook by; at our last halting station we had procured millet enough for the supper of the whole party; it was well we had taken this precaution, for we could get nothing at Oulasso. The soil in the vicinity of the village consists of very productive sand, in part cultivated. The Bambara inhabitants did not understand the Mandingo language; but we had the good fortune to meet with a woman who acted as our interpreter.

On the 3rd of February, at six in the morning, we proceeded in the direction of N.E. Our caravan was now very strong, being augmented by that which we had joined the preceding evening. We pursued our course over a soil composed of sand and very hard earth, covered with stones and gravel, which rendered the road very fatiguing. The country was, however, well wooded with cés and nédés. We crossed three large streams, by which we were detained a long time on account of our asses. The banks of these streams were thickly wooded, and in the shady parts grew many palm-trees. The natives are not aware that this tree furnishes an intoxicating liquor; they extract the oil, which they are very fond of, and with which they anoint their bodies. The palm-tree does not grow so abundantly here as on the coast. About ten o’clock in the morning we arrived at Facibrisso, where there is a great market for colat-nuts, allspice, long pepper, which is brought from the south, cloth manufactured in the country, and salt brought from the banks of the Dhioliba, besides a considerable quantity of millet, cotton, pistachios, and other native produce. The huts, which have flat roofs and only a ground-floor, are built of bricks baked in the sun. They are extremely inconvenient and so slight that they frequently fall down. All the villages, as far as Jenné, are built in the same way, and in general shaded by numerous bombaces and baobabs. The inhabitants gather the fruit of the baobab and sell it to the caravans. They even carry it to Jenné, where it is scarce, and from Jenné it is exported to Timbuctoo. The cé and the nédé are astonishingly abundant in all this part of the country. Proceeding towards the north, the baobabs become less common and the bombaces surpass them in size. The ronnier is abundant in some places.

On the 4th of February, at six in the morning, we set off in the direction of E.S.E. over a very good fertile soil. We crossed a river, after which we proceeded along a road covered with gravel. After travelling four miles we reached Toumané, where we found a numerous caravan on its way from Jenné. These traders brought us the unwelcome information that colats were very plentiful and very cheap at Jenné. This news was very disheartening to the poor merchants from Timé.

I went to see the market, which I found better than those of the villages through which I had previously passed. It was held under a sort of penthouse, which kept off the rain in bad weather. It was very well supplied with all the productions of the country. I even saw butcher’s meat and European commodities, such as cloth, muskets, powder and glass trinkets. The female traders managed their business cleverly. I bought some maumies, which were better made and superior to those in other villages. I saw some wild Guinea fowl, which are very common in this country: they are sold at the same price as common fowls. There were in this village many strangers from Ségo, Yamina, and other places. The inhabitants paid no particular attention to me, all taking me for a Moor. I found them mild and civil towards strangers; they were very neatly dressed, in comparison with the inhabitants of the villages which I had visited. My guide, Karamo-osila, discouraged by the news brought by the merchants from Jenné, resolved a second time to proceed by the way of Kayaye and Sansanding. This decision would have annoyed me extremely if the rest of the party had concurred in it; but he and his associates were the only persons who approved the plan. I made a bargain with an old man from Timé who was going to Jenné, and promised that on reaching this town I would give him a beautiful piece of cloth if he would allow his ass to carry my luggage. This arrangement seemed to please him. On the evening of our separation, I wished to make a third present to my guide, consisting of a piece of coloured cloth; but he declined accepting it, telling me, that in serving me he had not been influenced by motives of interest, but by the wish to perform an action which would be agreeable to God and the prophet. He added that I had a long journey before I should reach Mecca, and that, as my resources were not great, they would if I made frequent presents soon be exhausted. I was not to be duped by this; I perceived that he wanted something else: in fact he asked me to sell him a pair of scissors and some paper. Being convinced that I should be thought greedy if I sold him these articles, I promised to give him them at our parting, which was to be the next day. During the journey I had lent seven hundred cowries, partly to my guide and partly to other persons of the caravan. They all faithfully repaid me.

On the morning of the 5th of February, I went, accompanied by Karamo-osila, to call on the man from Timé, with whom I was henceforth to travel. At parting from my old guide, I presented him with the pair of scissors and the paper which I had promised him. He asked me for some cowries to enable him to pursue his journey, under the pretence that his colat-nuts would not sell, and that he should be unable to purchase provisions: I paid little attention to his request. Although I had every reason to praise his conduct, yet I parted from him without regret, for I was continually annoyed by his people, and principally by his wives, who took pleasure in tormenting me. I was their butt, and a constant subject of amusement to them. Indeed, during the halts, from the annoyance which I experienced, I might have fancied myself still at Timé; the men never took the trouble to make them hold their tongues.

At seven o’clock on the morning of the 5th of February, we separated, Karamo-osila going to the N.N.E. and we to the east. At a little distance from the village we crossed a stream by a very substantial bridge. There were between six and seven hundred persons and thirty or forty asses to pass. Many travellers with their women forded the stream, being up to their waists in water. It was a terrible scene of uproar and confusion. Every one was loudly disputing about the amount of the passage-duty, which was paid in cowries. Our caravan had been augmented by a number of merchants who traded in cloth, allspice, and long pepper. Having reached the opposite bank of the stream, we proceeded towards the N.E. along a fine level road. The country was open and interspersed with cés and nédés. The soil, composed of grey sand, was broken here and there by little hills. We crossed a dry marsh, covered with rich pasture, into which the natives turn their cattle. The inhabitants of the neighbouring villages are so industrious as to make dikes. They are raised to the height of three and a half, or four feet, so as to confine the waters of the marsh, which would otherwise inundate the country in the months of August and September.

About nine o’clock in the morning we halted at Oulasso, a village composed of three or four small enclosures of equal size, and containing about three hundred inhabitants.

At six in the morning of the 6th of February, we again set out and proceeded six miles N.E. over the same kind of soil as on the preceding day. The country was covered with bombaces and baobabs. We halted about nine in the morning at Chesso. This village is formed like Oulasso, of several little enclosures, very near to each other. The surrounding country is very bare. There is a marsh, on the borders of which the natives cultivate onions, beans, giraumons, &c. There are also within the village many bombaces and baobabs. On arriving at the hut allotted to us, I saw at the door a very dirty woman baking cakes in an earthen frying-pan made in the country. I bought some of them, not being able to procure any others; as there was no market in this village. Our hut, which was very narrow and low, scarcely afforded room for us and our luggage. However, I was obliged to pass the night in it.

My new companions clubbed to buy a goat. I gave seventy cowries for my share, and unfortunately I could not eat it, the meat being hard and badly cooked. An hour or two after supper, the negroes fell to eating the head half roasted on the ashes; and after they had gnawed the bones they gave them to the slaves.

The want of a market renders this place extremely dull. Its long, crooked streets are very dirty, and contain pools of filthy water, through which we were obliged to wade mid-leg deep in mud. Around these pools the inhabitants grow herbs for their sauces. My supper, consisting of the liquor in which the goat was boiled, helped to recruit my strength, exhausted by travelling every day without intermission.

At seven o’clock in the morning of the 7th of February, we left Chesso, taking a N.E. direction. The soil was level and covered with ferruginous stones and gravel. The vegetation was similar to that which I observed on the preceding days, but I also saw some specimens of the _rhamnus lotus_. We continued our journey over a grey sandy soil, producing millet and various other things. A fresh breeze blew from the north, and I should have been glad to warm myself, my clothing being but slight and falling in tatters about me.

We arrived about nine in the morning at Pala, where we halted for the rest of the day. This little village has a well stocked market. I perceived in the neighbourhood many furnaces for smelting iron, which is found on the surface of the soil. I saw also the implement employed in the cultivation of the soil, the only one, I believe, with which these people are acquainted, for I saw no other. It is a hoe, a foot long and eight inches broad. The handle, which is about sixteen inches in length, slants very much. In reaping they make use of a sickle without teeth, as at Wassoulo.

At eight o’clock, on the morning of the 8th of February, we left Pala, and proceeded to the N.E. over a soil composed of white hard sand. The country is very open, but here and there are to be seen many mimosas and cés. The cé, which, as I have before stated, furnishes abundance of butter, grows spontaneously throughout the interior of Africa. It would thrive admirably in our American colonies, where its introduction would be a great service to humanity. To the inhabitants of those regions the gift of this useful plant would be more valuable than a mine of gold. It was nine o’clock in the morning when we arrived at Maconeau, a pretty village, containing from three to four hundred inhabitants, and situated in a well cultivated plain. Near the village there is a low hill, extending from N.W. to S.E.

On the 9th of February, at six in the morning, we directed our course N.E. and proceeded about a mile ascending the hill where I saw many white calcareous stones. We descended by a very difficult road into a fine, firm sandy plain, along which we proceeded five miles. Although our daily journeys had not been very long, I was nevertheless greatly fatigued. If, at times, I sat down while hot under a tree to rest awhile, I was instantly chilled by a cool wind. These sudden transitions caused those frequent colds which I may rank among the greatest miseries I suffered during my travels. In sleeping in the huts I experienced a similar inconvenience. The large fires which the negroes are accustomed to make occasioned a suffocating heat, and the wind penetrating through a badly closed door, chilled me with cold; I sometimes coughed so much that I could not sleep, and sat up part of the night; I occasionally adopted the plan of sleeping out of doors, in order to enjoy a more equal temperature, but from this I found little relief. I was exceedingly ill, and so hoarse that it was necessary to come very close to me to hear me speak.

We met a caravan of traders coming from Jenné, where they had purchased salt; they had with them some horses, which they had also bought at that place. About nine o’clock in the morning we halted at Couara, a pretty village, where we found an abundance of all the necessaries of life. The inhabitants grow a great deal of cotton and millet, and are supplied with water from a stream which runs E.N.E., half a mile from the village.

At eight o’clock in the morning of the 10th of February we quitted Couara, and crossed the river called Koraba which delayed us at least three hours. This river is narrow and deep, and its banks, which are very high and well wooded, are composed of a red argillaceous earth, mixed with sand, gravel, and fragments of rock. The current is very rapid. The Koraba makes great ravages during its inundations, sweeping away masses of earth, and enlarging its bed; in return for these encroachments, however, it fertilises the country. This river comes from the south and flows rapidly from N.E. to east; on its right bank there is a chain of hills extending from south to E.N.E. The natives and the Mandingo merchants assured me that this river passes Kayaye, a considerable town, where a well frequented market is held, five days’ journey N.N.W. of Couara, and that it falls into the Dhioliba in the neighbourhood of Ségo. The Koraba is navigable for vessels of from sixty to eighty tons; in the part which we crossed it was ten feet deep, and from fifty to sixty fathoms wide. It is called by some the Couaraba; several women from the village had stationed themselves on the bank of the river, to sell maumies. I bought some for my breakfast. We had two canoes to cross the river; the boatmen were very hard in their demands upon us; they made us pay in advance, and counted their cowries two or three times over, to be assured that we had not deceived them. I was impatient at this delay. The asses also gave us infinite trouble; it was necessary to make them swim over, for the canoes were too small to receive them; when they got into the middle of the river, these animals turned and would have gone back to the bank which they had just left. At length, one of the negroes, whose patience was worn out, put cords round the necks of the asses, and fastening the other end round his own waist, swam across, whilst the other Mandingoes, who were behind, beat the animals and thus forced them on. We reached the right bank without experiencing any other difficulty. I asked a Mandingo negress to give me some water in a calabash, and she was good enough to add a little millet-flour to it. It was near noon when we left the bank of the river and proceeded towards the N.E. over a clayey soil. The country in general was very open. I perceived some _nauclea Africana_. The soil is covered with ferruginous stones, and in every direction are to be seen hills of no great height, most of which extend from N.W. to east and are covered with cés, at least those which I saw. About half past two in the afternoon, having proceeded four miles and a half, we halted at Douasso a village shaded by numerous baobabs and bombaces. The wells, which were between twelve and fourteen feet deep, afforded clean and pleasant water.

The surrounding country is very level and covered with nédés. Part of our caravan remained at Couara, not being able to cross the river that day. We were to wait for them at this village. I visited the market, which I found supplied with fish, fresh and dried, a great deal of millet, some rice, pistachios, maumies, and plenty of cotton. The women of our caravan obtained some colat-nuts from their husbands, to purchase this last article. They spin it, and, as I said before, whatever profit it produces, is their own. I saw some persons weaving under trees. In the evening our host presented us with a fowl, some pistachios, and a fresh fish of the carp kind, which is very common in the marshes: to catch it, the natives use a basket made of the branches of a tree. My old guide, whose name was Kai-mou, returned thanks for the present by a long prayer, and after assuring our host that he would go to Mahomet’s paradise, he gave him eight colat-nuts, valued in that country at forty-eight cowries.

After supper I took my seat on a sheep-skin in the court, to enjoy the cool air. Here we saw a Mandingo merchant, a native of Kong, who was returning from Jenné to trade in salt. He was alone, and carried his merchandise on his head. I entered into conversation with him, and obtained all the information I could respecting his country. He told me that Kong, his native place, was a large town, the capital of a district, inhabited by Mahometan Mandingoes. From Douasso, where we were, he said it would take him a month and a half to travel to Kong, with his load on his head. I asked him in what direction his country lay, and he several times pointed to the S.S.E. and S. ¼ S.E. I had a pocket compass, which I was afraid to make use of, except when alone. Had it been seen, it would probably have brought me into trouble. In order to ascertain as correctly as I could the situation of Kong, as described by the Mandingo, I remarked attentively the place where he sat, and fixed upon an object near the point of the horizon, which he had indicated. Next morning, without being seen by any person, I satisfied myself of its situation. The merchant told me that, on his return, he should leave Tangrera on his left, and pass through a great trading village, inhabited as he said, by Mandingoes, and a month’s journey from Douasso; he called it Dierisso. From that place he said it would take fifteen days to reach Kong. He likewise told me that the soil of his country was level and sandy; but very productive in millet, rice, yams, cassava, giraumons, cés, nédés, baobabs, and other useful trees and plants, and that his countrymen were rich in oxen, sheep, goats, and poultry. They have also horses, which must be a small breed, for he compared them with those of the country in which we were.

I learned from my informant, that a market is held every day in the town of Kong. The country is watered by numerous small streams, but it contains no rivers. The people grow a great quantity of cotton, of which they manufacture beautiful cloth, highly esteemed in trade. There are no gold-mines in Kong. Gold is brought thither from Baunan, which is fifteen days’ journey further south.

Baunan produces colat-nuts and a great quantity of gold, which the inhabitants exchange for salt and cloth. The soil of Baunan, although fertile and hilly, is uncultivated. The inhabitants, who employ themselves in working the mines, obtain provisions from their neighbours. The Kong trader told me that he had been many times at Baunan, and that beyond Kong there were no Bambara negroes; the people had, indeed, curly hair, but they spoke a different language. They are all idolaters, and do not travel, having markets of their own. The Mandingo merchants trade in Baunan, and go in caravans to Jenné, taking with them gold, colat-nuts, allspice, and long pepper. The negro, from whom I learned these particulars, told me that there were at that time many traders of his country at Jenné, and that I might, perhaps, see them. From Kong, caravans of pilgrims sometimes go to Mecca. The Baunan country, to which this negro alluded, is most probably the Tauman, which I heard mentioned by the good old woman at Timé.

On the 11th of February, as we were still sojourning at Douasso, awaiting the arrival of a party of our companions, who remained behind, I thought I would make an observation, at least approximatively, of the meridian altitude of the sun, by measuring a shadow at noon. For this purpose, I stationed myself near a large baobab, at a little distance from the village, in order to escape notice; but, notwithstanding this precaution, I had nearly involved myself in a serious scrape. Owing to the peculiarity of my colour, I was immediately missed from among my companions; I was sought for and discovered under the tree: as I was rising to look at the road, I perceived at a little distance some women, who walked round me to watch me; on seeing me writing they ran to inform the men, who thought themselves all lost, imagining that I was a sorcerer, and had bewitched their village; they assembled in great numbers, and made a great disturbance, desiring my guide to prohibit me from writing any more. I confess that I was not quite at ease as to the consequences of this affair. Some persons came to me and declared, in an authoritative tone, that I must relinquish my magical operations; they even shook me by the shoulders, and used threats to me. I had foreseen that, if observed, I should excite suspicion, and accordingly took the precaution of writing on the ground where I was making my observation the sacred words, _Bism’ Allah erralmân errahym_ (in the name of the merciful and forgiving God); but the ignorant Bambaras could not read writing. Fortunately, I had finished my observation when this unpleasant scene occurred. The people gathered round me, and asked me what I had been doing: I told them I had been making an amulet, which was a safeguard against all sorts of illness, and my guide heartily seconded this evasion. At length they appeared satisfied; some begged me to write similar grigris for them; and, had I complied with the requests of all, I might have continued at work all day. I gave to two Bambaras a little bit of paper, on which I had written some Arabic characters: they appeared much pleased with the present, and wrapped it up very carefully in a bit of dirty rag. On returning to my hut, it was some time before I entirely recovered from the agitation into which I had been thrown. Old Kai-mou, my guide, asked me why I had remained so long under the tree: he told me that I had exposed myself to danger, for the Bambaras were not well disposed people; that I must be on my guard with them, and, in future, if I wished to write, I must remain in my hut; as for himself, he was fully persuaded that I had been writing grigris. In the evening our company arrived.

On the 12th of February, at six o’clock in the morning, we left the superstitious inhabitants of Douasso, and proceeded northward over a tolerably level soil, covered in some places with ferruginous stones and gravel.

We proceeded four miles and a half in this same direction. As we advanced the soil became sandy and well cultivated. The country was generally open, yet there were some cés and nédés, _rhamnus lotus_, and _nauclea_. We met a numerous caravan from Jenné, laden with salt. This caravan was composed of about two hundred men, sixty women, and twenty-five asses. About nine o’clock in the morning we halted at Sanasso. From Toumané to Jenné wood is so scarce, that the greater part of the inhabitants burn millet-stubble. Sanasso is shaded by bombaces and baobabs. Like all Bambara villages in this region, it is built of bricks baked in the sun. The houses have only a ground-floor: they are very dirty, and surrounded with walls.

On the 13th of February, at six o’clock in the morning, we proceeded on our journey, in a direction N.N.E. After advancing six miles, we crossed an extensive dry marsh. The country was even more open than that through which we had passed on the preceding day. The soil, which was level, consisted of grey and very hard sand. About nine o’clock in the morning, we stopped at Garo, a large village, containing from eight to nine hundred inhabitants. It is situated in a beautiful plain, fertile in cotton and millet. Round the huts tobacco is cultivated. A great market is held at this place.

At six o’clock in the morning of the 14th of February, we proceeded northward, and journeyed four miles over the same kind of soil as on the preceding day. About eight o’clock we halted at the village of Béré, the environs of which are covered with cés and nédés. I observed a great deal of ferruginous stone on the surface of the soil. Here are several furnaces for smelting iron. We lodged with a smelter, who explained to me the process which he employed in his business. The stones containing particles of iron are first broken with a large hammer. They are then put into a furnace, having a fire both above and below. These furnaces are constructed like those in Fouta-Dhialon, which I have already described. The iron, when melted, is run into a convenient form, and carried to Jenné to be exchanged for salt. The forges are constructed like those of Senegal; but the smiths of Béré have not so many tools. Their bellows are made of two sheep or kid skins; they have a very small anvil and two large hammers. They use charcoal, although it is very scarce. The forges are in a long and narrow building, rudely constructed, having seven doors opening to the west. At Béré I disposed of some glass trinkets. The poor Bambaras seemed quite enchanted with the beauty of the things which I exhibited; I took care, however, to shew them very little.

At six o’clock in the morning of the 15th of February, we set out in the direction of N.N.E. and proceeded five miles over a soil similar to that observed on the preceding day. About nine o’clock we halted at Nibakhasso, a village containing from six to seven hundred inhabitants, and having a well stocked market. The people were celebrating a festival, and amusing themselves by singing and dancing. The old men were assembled round great calabashes filled with beer, drinking, singing, and smoking. Some musicians helped to enliven the scene. A very fat dog was killed for the occasion, and broiled with the skin on. Although it was almost raw, the owner speedily disposed of it: each person bought a small piece for five or ten cowries, devoured it greedily, and washed it down with a draught of beer. The flesh was of a reddish colour, but looked very well; and I dare say it was much better than that of the camel which I was afterwards obliged to eat in the desert. Our Mandingoes exhibited their stock of nuts, and sold some of them to the merry Bambaras. I also disposed of those which I brought from Tangrera, and which they bought in preference. There are people in this country who make beer and sell it retail. I had a great wish to taste it, but my character of Musulman rendered that impossible. On holidays, these dealers in beer station themselves at the scene of festivity, and are soon surrounded by the lovers of this liquor, which they sell in small calabashes. I observed that they looked very sharply after their payment, and refused to serve those who had no money. In the evening, the inhabitants of the place were almost all intoxicated. They brought out about twelve or fifteen horses, and made them prance about to the sound of drums. The young people danced all night. Old Kai-mou, my guide, was so extravagant as to buy a large fowl for supper, and I gave him salt to season the sauce. We made an excellent meal.

At six o’clock in the morning of the 16th of February, we again set forth, and proceeded four miles in a N.N.E. direction. The soil was composed of sand and gravel, and the vegetation consisted of numerous cés and nédés, some mimosas, wild figs, _rhamnus lotus_, and bombaces. At eleven o’clock in the morning, we arrived at Wattouro. We met a caravan of traders returning from Jenné. They informed us that the war between Ségo and that town interrupted all communication, and that the Moorish traders were afraid to go to Sansanding on account of this war. They also told us that colat-nuts fetched no price at Jenné. The market at Wattouro, which was in the shade of some bombaces, was well supplied with dried fish, millet, a little rice, and butcher’s meat.