Chapter VI

Departure of the author on his great expedition. — Manners and customs of his travelling companions, and account of the caravans in this part of Africa. — The Caura. — Mountains of Lantégué. — River of Doulinca. — Smelting of iron. — Rio Pongo. — Mountain of Touma. — Description of Irnanké and its inhabitants. — Telewel. — Cataract of Cocouo. — Orange trees.

The information which I have just been communicating to the reader was acquired in M. Castagnet’s absence, and by the help of some excursions that I took with Mr. Bethman and Mr. Tudsberry in the neighbourhood of Kakondy. I was endeavouring to arrange the notes that I had made respecting the Nalous, the Landamas, and the Bagos, when M.Castagnet returned. He was so good as to turn his attention immediately to my journey, and gave me much useful advice respecting my conduct amongst the tribes whom I intended to visit. He furnished me with all the particulars that had come to his knowledge concerning their manners, their jealousy, and their distrust of Europeans; and thinking that this was not sufficient, and that he had not done enough to oblige me, he sent for some Mandingoes, who deservedly enjoyed a considerable reputation in the neighbourhood for their probity, experience, and wealth. He endeavoured to persuade these Mandingoes to accompany me to Timbuctoo; and he communicated to them the object of my journey, with many encomiums upon my love of my country; he had expatiated on the courage displayed by so young a man in braving such dangers to return to his kindred: then, gradually unfolding the tale of my Egyptian origin, he endeavoured to interest their feelings in my behalf, and to secure their assistance. In vain did M. Castagnet exert his eloquence; they were perfectly indifferent till he promised to reward them for any thing they should do for me; then indeed, they showed great zeal to serve me, and protested, every one of them, that they would treat me like their own son.

They made some remarks upon the difficulties and fatigue which I should have to endure and which I might not have strength to sustain; but, upon my reply that I was determined to bear every thing, that I might return to my country, they fixed a day for our departure. M. Castagnet gave them the value of an ox in merchandise, and the Mandingoes, as they had promised, procured a slave to carry my small bundle. These arrangements were speedily terminated.

On the 19th of April, I took leave of M. Castagnet; and—shall I confess it?—I shed tears at parting from this generous friend; my regret at leaving him, however, sincere as it was, could not damp the joy which I felt in undertaking a journey upon which my mind had been bent for so many years.

Our caravan consisted of five free Mandingoes, three slaves, my Foulah porter, my guide, and his wife. All except the last two and myself carried enormous burdens.

We travelled along the left bank of the river Nuñez, and in two hours arrived at Mr. Bethman’s factory. I again saw the graves of Major Peddie and other officers of the same expedition, and was seized with an involuntary shudder at the thought that the same fate perhaps awaited me; these sad forebodings vanished however on leaving the tombs, and gave way to hopes of a happier issue.

At nine in the morning we directed our course S.S.E. Ibrahim my guide, to whom I had given several articles stopped all of a sudden, and told me, by means of a negro who could speak English, that he should be obliged to make a great many presents on the way, and that he was afraid after all I should never get safe to Fouta-Dhialon, on account of my fair complexion. This reflection appeared to come a little too late, but I understood the purport of it, when he added in good Arabic that I must give him a piece of cloth.

It would have been dangerous to encourage his importunity, so I pretended that I did not know what he said, and went on in the same direction without giving him any thing. We found the soil composed of red earth, and rather stony, but covered with most beautiful vegetation; the _nédé_[44] in particular is very abundant. We came to a group of Mandingoes and Foulahs seated under some large trees; they were quarrelling with one another, and looking out for the customary presents. There is such a competition in the Kakondy trade, that the proprietors of each factory send couriers before the caravans to make presents to the dealers and to draw them to themselves; if they are numerous, an ox is killed on their arrival at the factory, and they are supplied with rice all the time the traffic lasts: when they are about to return a present is made them, and they are furnished with provision for the journey. So great is the competition that the merchants will even sell their goods without profit.

As I proceeded, I found the face of the country broken by stony hillocks, covered with large trees which formed a most picturesque and varied landscape. The heat was beginning to be painful; our porters were fatigued, and we halted near a pretty rivulet, with the limpid and delicious water of which we quenched our thirst. We had then travelled nearly twelve miles to the east. We kindled a fire; the negro slaves went in quest of wood, and my guide’s wife prepared to cook our dinner.

Throughout all Africa, the merchants have adopted the plan of taking one of their wives with them to cook for the caravan. These unhappy creatures are loaded with earthen pots, calabashes, salt, &c.; in short, they are compelled to carry the heaviest burdens, whilst their husbands walk at their ease.

On our way we joined many Foulahs loaded with salt, who were going to Fouta; we afterwards met others carrying leather, wax, and rice; they were going to Kakondy to buy salt. I was very much surprised to see these poor Foulahs and Mandingoes, who were carrying nearly a hundred weight on their heads, walk with the greatest rapidity, and climb the Irnanké mountains with the utmost agility. They carry a staff in their hands to assist them in supporting their burden, which is packed in a long basket made of thin and flexible pieces of wood; this basket is about three feet long, and one foot wide and deep. When the goods are stowed in it, the lid is put down, and the whole tightly secured with cords made of the bark of trees. If the bearers are weary, they rest one end of the basket upon the branch of a tree, and support the other with their staff; thus loaded, they travel to the Kankan to sell their salt. We seated ourselves under the shades of a superb bombax to take our slender repast, consisting of boiled rice, and pistachio-nuts parched and pounded, to which they added a little palm-oil. The six free Mandingoes and I placed ourselves round the calabash containing our dinner, and each in turn took a handful of rice; the slaves and my porter ate together, and the women dined alone.

When they halt, as well as on the road, the women have all the labour; the husband lies down on dry leaves or straw, which his slaves carry for his accommodation. After this frugal repast, I lay down too for a few moments. Several of the Foulahs, who had joined us on our road, gave me some of the fruit of the _nédé_, which is very common in this part of Africa, and very useful to travellers; it has a great deal of nourishment in it, and helps to save the rice which is destined for the purchase of salt.

About half-past two we were again on our way, proceeding to the S.E. over the same kind of soil as in the morning. After travelling about seven miles in this direction, we arrived near a deep ravine, where we halted to pass the night. One of the slaves went to fetch water, and our cook fell to work.

The Foulahs, who had been told that I was an Arab, shewed a sort of veneration for me, and were never weary of looking at me and pitying me: their extreme devotion renders them very charitable: they came and sat by me, taking my legs upon their knees and rubbing them to relieve my fatigue. “Thou must suffer sadly,” said they, “because thou art not used to such a toilsome journey.” One of them went and fetched some leaves to make me a bed. “Here!” said he, “this is for thee; for thou canst not sleep upon the stones, as we do.” Lying upon my bed of leaves, I felt as happy and as much at my ease as if I had been in my own apartment.

The sky was serene. The heat of the day had been succeeded by a refreshing breeze, and every thing was exceedingly pleasant.

Several Foulahs gave me a little rice, and I was the more grateful for it as this was all they had to give. The Mandingoes too were exceedingly kind and attentive to me, and endeavoured to anticipate all my wishes.

Prudence required me to retire to the woods to write and arrange my notes. I observed this precaution throughout the whole of my journey; for every observation that dropped from those by whom I was surrounded convinced me how dangerous it would be to rouse their suspicion.

My guide, Ibrahim, though of a touchy disposition, was, upon the whole very kind to me. He conducted me in safety through the Fouta, notwithstanding his repeated threats to take me back to Timbo, where he knew that the almamy would have me arrested.

At five in the morning of the 20th of April, we resumed our journey, directing our course eastward. We passed near a charming rivulet, which ran in a southerly direction, between two hills, over a bed of rocks. After proceeding nine miles we halted, about eleven o’clock, on the banks of the Tankilita, a rivulet which my companions gave out to be the Rio Nuñez.

About half past one in the afternoon, we set out and travelled E.N.E. We passed near the little village of Oréous, which is inhabited by Foulahs, who rear a considerable number of sheep. This village is situated on the slope of a high mountain, which is covered with beautiful vegetation. We proceeded eastward seven miles, over a stony mountainous tract of country, interspersed with large trees. The nédé and the bombax grow here abundantly. At sun-set we halted at the foot of a stony hillock, where there is a very deep ravine, on the margin of which are some extremely agreeable spots: there we passed the night. My companions again made me a bed of leaves; but I declined the accommodation, being fearful of the ill effects of the coolness and damp, proceeding from this couch of verdure after the excessive heat of the day. I therefore preferred lying on the stones, enveloped in my wrapper.

At five o’clock on the morning of the 21st, we again started. We proceeded seven or eight miles amidst stony hillocks, which rendered our journey exceedingly fatiguing. At length we passed near a village inhabited by slaves who are employed in agriculture. All villages of this kind receive the general denomination of _ourondé_: the particular name of the one which we passed is Sancoubadialé.

About ten in the morning, we halted near a little spring shaded by lofty trees, which seemed to rear their majestic heads to the very clouds. The spring is in a ravine, forty or fifty feet deep, and surrounded by huge masses of quartz. The neighbourhood is inhabited by numbers of red apes, who come to the spring to drink. Two of these animals, which spied me, suddenly stopped and began to bark like dogs. They advanced upon me and as I was unprovided with any defensive weapon, I must confess that I felt somewhat alarmed. Fortunately, however, at this moment I perceived two Mandingoes of our party, who were coming to fetch some water. At their approach, the apes ran off to the woods, and we were left in undisturbed possession of the spring. About noon, we again resumed our course, proceeding to south east. Our road was less stony than it had been during the morning, but it was interspersed with hillocks, which obliged us to make frequent windings. The country was covered with large trees, the shade of which skreened us from the excessive heat of the day. I observed many wild fig-trees, and a sort of plum-tree, which the negroes call _caura_. This tree bears a very good fruit, it is shaped like a plum. The pellicle is reddish and marked with somewhat lighter spots. Beneath the pellicle is a pulp, which is very agreeable to the taste. It is not more than four lines thick, and it envelops a kernel as large as that of the peach. The negroes are very fond of this fruit.

After proceeding about nine miles, we passed the ruins of a village, and then continued for a mile and a half in the same direction. The road became more stony than hitherto; and at three in the afternoon, we arrived, greatly fatigued, at the village of Daourkiwar, or Daour-Kiwarat, where we passed the night. This village contains about four hundred inhabitants, partly Foulahs and partly Mandingoes. It is situated near a lake, the water of which is very good. This lake is surrounded by bombaces, plum-trees, and a few _naucleas_. We gathered and ate the plums, which we found delicious.

On the 22d, at five in the morning, we continued our journey in the direction of E.S.E. On the slope of a mountain, about three hundred and fifty, or four hundred feet high, we discerned the pretty Dhialonké village, called _Lom-bar_, which lay to our right. We next reached the little hill, on which is situated a second Daourkiwar village. The soil here is very good and susceptible of much higher cultivation. We proceeded onwards to some distance, and, having descended a mountain, we found a little stream, on the bank of which we halted. The stream flows through an extensive plain, which is surrounded by well wooded hills. These hills are composed of a red kind of earth, which might be rendered highly productive by cultivation. The road during the morning had been exceedingly stony and fatiguing; and, as my sandals galled me, I was obliged to take them off and walk barefoot; but the stones hurt my feet still more. I remarked that all the trees and shrubs were scorched with the heat of the sun. The environs were covered with reeds, which the natives use in building their huts. Some rice was boiled in water for our dinner; and after this frugal repast we again started about half-past twelve o’clock. We ascended the mountain, proceeding eastward; the path was very stony and nearly blocked up by the roots of trees. On reaching the level top of the hill we rested a little, and afterwards pursued our journey to the S.E. The road now became more agreeable than it had been during the morning. We found many caura trees, and amused ourselves in gathering the fruit; and, after travelling six miles, we arrived, at five in the evening, much fatigued, at Coussotami, a pretty little village, situated on a hill. Bananas were brought to us; we purchased them for a few glass beads. Some Foulahs of the village, being informed of my arrival, came to see me, and, as it was night, they lighted a taper made of a kind of wax, which is found in great abundance among these hills. During the night we lay down beneath some trees, upon the stones which covered the ground.

On the 23d of April, about five in the morning, we left Coussotami. Proceeding eastward, we passed a dry ravine, surrounded by trees, forming the most romantic groups. The aspect of the country was generally pleasing. Advancing to the S.E., we arrived in a beautiful valley covered with rich pasture, and next reached a deep ravine, the passage of which we found exceedingly difficult, owing to many large blocks of granite which we were obliged to climb over. This ravine brought us to the foot of a mountain, five or six hundred feet high, which we ascended by a circuitous route, and, after journeying about four or five miles, we reached its summit. Here, being greatly fatigued, we made a halt. About one in the afternoon we again started, and proceeded about four miles in the direction of E.S.E. We now reached a pretty little stream, whose limpid waters flow over a bed of granite: its course is from south to N.N.E. The natives call it Naufomou, and they informed me that it emptied itself into the Rio Nuñez. We seated ourselves for a short time on the margin of this stream, and ate some little cakes made of rice-flour, mixed with honey and allspice, and baked in the sun. I thought them very good. The Mandingo and Foulah traders always take care to provide themselves with these cakes for their journeys. We next passed Dougué, a pretty village, containing three or four hundred inhabitants, Foulahs and Dhialonkés. It is situated in a plain of grey sand, which might be rendered very fertile by cultivation. This plain is surrounded by high hills, which afford fine pasturage. We stopped near a spring to pass the night. The little village of Mirayé is situated on the declivity of a high mountain, a mile S.E. of Dougué. Several Foulah shepherds who were tending their flocks in the neighbourhood came to see us, and sold us what they call _cagnan_: this is a sort of small loaves or rolls, made of pistachio-nuts, baked and pounded, then mixed with maize, and sweetened with honey. These loaves form a portion of their provision when travelling. I observed a young Foulah who gazed at me very stedfastly: he invited me to go with him to his camp, where he said he would give me some milk. As I did not like to go alone, he requested some of my fellow-travellers to accompany me, which two of them readily consented to do. The young man walked before to shew us the way, and he took the trouble to remove some large pieces of stone which obstructed our path. On reaching his camp, which was not far from the place of our halt, he spread out a bullock’s hide, upon which he begged me to seat myself. The camp consisted of five or six straw huts of a roundish form, and so exceedingly low that it was necessary to stoop nearly double to get into them. The furniture consisted of a few mats and sheep-skins, and calabashes to hold milk: the bed was composed of four stakes fixed in the ground, supporting long planks of wood, which were covered with a bullock’s hide. He went to fetch his old mother and sisters to see me. He told them that I was an Arab, a countryman of the Prophet’s, going to Mecca. They looked at me with great interest, and, making several gestures, exclaimed, _La allah il allah, Mahommed rasoul oullahi_ (There is no god but God, and Mahomet is his prophet) to which I replied according to the usual form. They seated themselves at a little distance from me that they might view me at their ease. The young Foulah went to fetch me some milk in a calabash, which he washed, an extraordinary ceremony in this part of the world; and he afterwards brought me a little fried meat: I requested him to eat with me, but, pointing with his finger to the moon, he said, smiling, and with an air of timidity, “I fast; it is the Ramadan.”

From this little camp we discerned the village of Mirayé, situated on the declivity of a high hill, apparently thickly wooded. The village is inhabited partly by Foulahs and partly by Dhialonkés, all Mahometans. We took our leave of the hospitable young Foulah, and returned to our halting place, where we found some of our party returning from Dougué, whither they had been to purchase rice for our journey. We slept in some little huts, made of branches of trees, covered with straw. These huts served to shelter travellers in rainy weather, for the village of Dougué lies at some distance from the road.

At four in the morning of the 24th of April, our caravan again moved forward. We proceeded eastward, along a pleasant road covered with fine gravel, and soon reached a stony mountain, which we ascended. In turning another mountain, seven or eight hundred feet high, we almost made the round of the compass. We then came to a beautiful valley, watered by a large rivulet, which the natives call Bangala: it runs from N. to S. We proceeded E.S.E. for the distance of half a mile. We then ascended a mountain of the same height as that just mentioned, and exceedingly steep. On reaching the summit we descended the other side by a very rapid slope, and, at eleven in the morning, we halted in a fine valley, near a spring surrounded by hillocks. We took our dinner beneath the shade of a bombax. At one in the afternoon we proceeded to the S.S.E. still across mountains. We passed near the huts of some Foulah herdsmen. When we were about four miles from the place where we had stopped to dine, we were overtaken by a violent storm. The thunder roared tremendously, and the rain poured in torrents. We took shelter in the herdsmen’s huts. The storm lasted nearly two hours and a half. When it was over we journeyed onward to Dongol, a small slave village,[45] about a mile and a half from the herdsmen’s huts. It was about three in the afternoon when we reached this place. The hospitable chief of the village received us very kindly. He sent me a supper of rice and sour milk, to which he added a little melted butter. The village contains about three hundred inhabitants, and it has a mosque of the same form as the huts.

At five in the morning of the 25th of April, we took leave of our host, to whom my guide, Ibrahim, gave a little salt. Our road lay to the S.E. We descended the hill on which the village is situated, and then crossed a very fertile plain. We arrived at a chain of mountains called, by the natives, Lantégué. It extends from N.E. to S. Each of these mountains rises perpendicularly to the height of nearly two hundred fathoms, and they exhibit scarcely any trace of vegetation. We soon found ourselves surrounded by large blocks of grey granite of a pyramidal form, resembling the ruins of an ancient castle. Having penetrated into the gorges of these mountains, which are composed of beautiful grey granite, we forded the rivulet called the Doulinca, which flows rapidly over a bed of granite from east to south. The water was more than knee-deep. We next proceeded to the distance of a mile over a fertile and very beautiful plain, surrounded by large rocks of grey granite. Large bamboos grow in the clefts of these enormous rocks. We again crossed the Doulinca, near a point where it falls in a cascade, the pleasing murmur of which charms the ear of the weary traveller. I seated myself for a few moments on the banks of the rivulet, while the poor negroes were reposing at a little distance, and I contemplated with admiration the beautiful scene around me. Though interspersed with mountains this district is fertile in the utmost degree, and it is watered by numerous streams and rivulets, which keep the verdure constantly fresh. The mountains are inhabited by Foulah herdsmen, who live secluded from all other society. The milk of their cattle, together with the rice which they cultivate, suffices for their support. I did not see a wild beast among these mountains. The country, which seems to be favoured by nature, is inhabited by numerous birds, whose plumage exhibits an endless variety of colours. I saw many of the same species as those found on the banks of the Senegal. We resumed our journey, and passed the huts of some Foulahs, who brought us milk. I bought some for a few glass beads. They looked at me with manifestations of earnest curiosity, and they said they had never seen a Moor so white as I was. On leaving them we found ourselves in a valley formed of two hills of granite. The soil, which consists of grey sand, is fertile and covered with good pasturage.

We were obliged once more to cross the Doulinca, and, about one in the afternoon, we halted among some Foulah herdsmen. Their huts were built beneath the shade of large trees, a most enviable situation in this part of the world. Since my departure from Kakondy, I had not seen so beautiful and fertile a tract of country. Instead of rocks, I now beheld on every side delightful plains, which required only the labour of the husbandman to produce every thing necessary for human life. The day had been excessively hot, and about two in the afternoon we heard thunder in the direction of N.E. The sky was overcast with black clouds, and the rain fell abundantly. We repaired for shelter to the huts of the herdsmen, who at first scrupled to admit us. The thunder rolled in terrific peals; and I expected every moment that we should be struck by the lightning. The flashes rapidly succeeded each other, and the sky appeared to be one sheet of flame. We lay down on the herdsmen’s beds, consisting of round pieces of wood placed upon posts which raised them a little from the ground, and we patiently awaited the termination of the storm. When the rain ceased, we left the huts, and the freshness which now pervaded the atmosphere added new charms to the surrounding scene. We ate a little rice, and then proceeded eastward. We crossed a little rivulet which flowed over a bed of granite. The road was wet and muddy, which rendered our journey fatiguing. After travelling half a mile to N.E. and another half mile to the east, we arrived at nightfall at an ourondé, or slave village, called Lantégué. We were again overtaken by rain on the road, and I had recourse to my umbrella which, however, did not entirely protect me. The chief of Lantégué gave us a hut. Before it there was a beautiful orange-tree, beneath which I sat down on a sheep-skin. Thunder was again heard. The sky was covered with clouds, the atmosphere warm and damp, and it continued raining the whole of the night. The incessant flashes of lightning continually illuminated our hut, the door of which would not more than half shut.

We stopped at Lantégué the whole of the 26th, for one of the slaves of our caravan, who was heavily laden, had bad feet. I spent a part of the day in visiting the village and its inhabitants, who were about one hundred and fifty in number. Many of them thought me too white for a Moor.

I observed round the huts some fine bananas, pineapples, cassavas, yams, and various other useful plants. They were well cultivated. It is the women’s business to attend to them. The men labour in the rice fields, &c. The heat was very great during the day, which denoted a storm in the evening. We were now approaching the rainy season which in these mountainous districts commences in April, and continues six consecutive months. In the course of the day a little dispute arose between my guide Ibrahim and two Mandingoes of his village, who insisted on having their share of the value of a bullock, which had been given to them by M. Castagnet, at Kakondy. The two Mandingoes came to me, and wished me to decide their difference. However, my decision only made the matter worse, and so irritated my guide, that he threatened to leave me, which would, of course, have thrown me into no little embarrassment. At length, a young negro, who had been to Sierra-Leone and spoke a little English, came to my aid. He helped to interpret what I said, and thus peace was restored among us.

The merchants spent the remainder of the day in examining their goods and I amused myself in looking about the neighbourhood of the village. I saw several furnaces for smelting iron, a metal which is found in great abundance among the mountains. These furnaces, which are from five to ten feet high, and eighteen or twenty feet in circumference, have a chimney at top, and four holes at the base, in the direction of east, west, north and south. At a little distance from the village, there are some small streams, which descend from the mountains and run rapidly over beds of granite. Here I took the opportunity of bathing, and some of the Mandingoes washed their clothes.

At half-past five, on the morning of the 27th, we left the village of Lantégué, to cross the chain of mountains of that name, proceeding to the S.E. Some of these mountains appeared to be three hundred and fifty and four hundred fathoms above the elevated plain on which we were. I observed some very beautiful granite of a whitish-grey colour. We passed not far from a little village, where the Foulahs were tending their cattle. As we crossed the chain of mountains, I saw the poor negroes, with loads on their heads, leaping from precipice to precipice, and every moment expected to see them fall into the yawning gulphs beneath. From the depths proceeds a dull murmur, produced by the numerous springs which rise among the mountains. They fall into the plain beneath, where they form a sort of river. When we descended we saw nothing but mountains on every side, though none appeared so high as those which I had seen in the morning. At the part where we crossed the chain, it extends in the direction from N.E. to S.S.E. I did not perceive any snow. I saw some very beautiful black granite, both in strata three or four feet thick and in blocks. I also saw grey, white, and pale rose-coloured granite of a very beautiful grain. We travelled on in an eastern direction until we reached the banks of the Kakiriman, a little river which runs from north to south, over a bed of granite. Its current is very rapid and its width may be about seventy or eighty ordinary paces. I could trace with my eye the course of this river to the distance of three or four miles and along that space its breadth did not appear to vary. At the point where we forded it the water came up to our waists. Having deviated a little from the course taken by my companions, I was carried to some distance by the current, and the water came up to my arm-pits. The negroes, perceiving me, called out, desiring me to make the best of my way back again. They all exclaimed with one voice, _La allah il allah, Mahommed rasoul oullahi_, and appeared very much alarmed at my danger. A little further down, the river becomes deep, and, as I could not have contended against the current, I should have sunk. At length, by managing to ascend a little, I gained the left bank in safety, but my baggage was completely wet. About eleven in the morning we halted not far from the banks of the river, in a place covered with hillocks of black sand, on which grew numbers of large bamboos. We seated ourselves beneath the trees. The poor slaves were dreadfully fatigued, and though I had no load to carry I was almost as tired as they. I bought some cagnan, a sort of bread which I have already described. This was the first food I had tasted during the whole of the day. Several Foulahs made me little presents. The negroes told me that the river we had just crossed was the Rio Pongo. Want of rice obliged us to pack up our baggage and proceed to Pandeya, a little village inhabited by Foulah herdsmen. On our way we met two negroes, each of whom had on his head a calabash of _foigné_ (a small kind of grain), which they would not sell to us. After travelling eleven miles E.S.E. we reached the village about half past twelve. Our road had been level and well wooded, but covered with stones. Pandeya is situated at the foot of a mountain, and contains from one hundred and fifty to two hundred inhabitants. They all came to see me, and each brought me a little present of milk. After we had reposed for a short time in the shade of some large nédés, and refreshed ourselves with the milk, for which we were indebted to the generosity of the Foulahs, my guide Ibrahim and his comrades proposed to buy a bullock, to celebrate the festival of the Ramadan, which happened on the following day. He asked me, through the medium of the young Foulah, who spoke English, whether I would pay my share of the price. This I declined doing, alleging that I had a long journey to perform with very scanty resources; and Ibrahim said no more on the subject. They purchased the bullock for four bars of tobacco; about the value of two gourdes, the joint contribution of about twelve or fifteen of our party, including the travelling Foulahs.

On the 28th of April, which was the grand festival day, we staid at Pandeya, and about eight in the morning the merchants all ranged themselves in a line to repeat the prayer. I took care to be among them and even affected greater devotion than any of the rest. The prayer being ended, the bullock was killed. The Mandingoes spent nearly an hour in equalizing the lots of meat. They each took a little bit of wood to serve as a measure, and after mingling them all together, the lots were distributed. Some of the meat was dried and smoked, that it might keep for the journey; but a considerable portion was immediately boiled with rice for the festival.

I received numerous visits from Foulahs, who brought me their usual presents of milk and rice, which were all they had to give. The festival was celebrated with considerable gaiety. The Mandingoes, in particular, indulged in tumultuous manifestations of joy. They fired several discharges of musketry, and afterwards all the negroes assembled round my guide’s hut and sang songs in his praise. He was, as I have already mentioned, the chief of the caravan, and it was he who furnished the gunpowder for the rejoicings. These people have a bad habit of putting too great a charge of powder into their muskets, and on this occasion one of them burst in the hands of a negro; but fortunately, the poor fellow was not hurt. About eleven in the forenoon Ibrahim, accompanied by the two Mandingoes who were engaged in the dispute to which I have already alluded, came to invite me to partake of their dinner, and they again requested me to forget what had passed. I accepted the invitation. On entering Ibrahim’s hut, I saw a large calabash full of boiled rice, upon which was laid a considerable quantity of the beef. We sat down and each helped himself with his hands, according to the negro custom. When the rice was finished, Ibrahim distributed the meat. I observed that the Mandingoes ate an unusual quantity that day. Eating, indeed, seems to be the highest pleasure they are capable of enjoying. During the rest of the day they were very merry, and they exchanged the bullock’s hide for some rice, which we ate during our journey.

On the 29th of April, the remainder of the meat which had been smoked all night was put into leather bags, and we resumed our journey at six in the morning. Opposite to the village, about half a mile to the north, there was a small chain of mountains, with level summits; and at each extremity of the chain one rises to a considerable height above the rest, like the turret of an ancient castle. These mountains have no vegetation. We proceeded for a mile eastward, upon rocks level with the surface of the ground, of a reddish colour and porous nature, and we next ascended a mountain composed of blocks of beautiful black granite, among which grew various large trees particularly the nédé, which abounds throughout all this part of the country. The road was very bad; we had to walk upon black calcined stones, which had the appearance of being of volcanic origin. After crossing several little streams that flow over beds of rock, we came to a mountain about five or six hundred ordinary paces high. It is called by the natives Touma, and it separates the country of Irnanké from the Fouta-Dhialon. We rested for a short time on its summit. My companions assured me that the road thence to Cambaya, my guide’s village, would be better than the preceding part of our journey. I observed in this neighbourhood some very fine indigo, and some bombaces which rivalled in size the enormous baobabs on the banks of the Senegal.

The country of Irnanké lies to the west of the Fouta, and to the east of Kakondy. It has on the north the negroes who inhabit the neighbourhood of Casamance; and on the south the Timannee negroes, who occupy a tract of country not far from Sierra-Leone. Irnanké is studded with lofty mountains, and inhabited by pastoral Foulahs. They possess fine flocks, which are their principal wealth. The complexion of these Foulahs is a lightish chesnut colour; they have good countenances, high foreheads, aquiline noses, and thin lips, and their heads are somewhat of an oval shape. The only point in which they resemble the Mandingoes is their curly hair. They hold themselves very upright, and walk with an air of dignity; for they think themselves far superior to the other negro tribes. Their dress, like that of the Mandingoes, is exceedingly simple; it consists of a coussabe, or shirt, of white cloth, of their own manufacture, and a pair of trowsers. The trowsers are made of coarse cloth; they are very wide, and confined round the waist by means of a buckle; they reach about half-way down the leg, where they are left loose. A cap of the same material completes the costume. When these negroes travel, they are armed with bows and poisoned arrows, and they also carry lances. They rub their bodies all over with butter, and they put a great deal upon their heads, which occasions a very disagreeable smell. The women take remarkable pains in dressing their heads. They plait their hair and adorn it with various glass trinkets. They wear amber necklaces, and their whole appearance is animated and pleasing. In these mountains there are many Dhialonkés, the ancient possessors of the country of Fouta-Dhialon, which was conquered long ago by the Foulahs, who compelled part of the population to embrace Mahometanism. Those who refused to forsake idolatry became tributaries to the almamy, or chief, of Irnanké. They pay their tribute in cattle. These people are very mild and hospitable to the strangers who are continually travelling through their mountainous country. They have a particular dialect, which the Foulahs do not understand.

After resting for a short time, we continued our journey eastward. The road was interspersed with small masses of rock, which incommoded me exceedingly; for, as I could not walk with the sandals of the country, I was obliged to go barefoot. We passed Courgin, a little village containing a population of about one hundred and fifty or two hundred. The masses of rock were succeeded by stones, apparently volcanic. Proceeding nine miles further, to the east, we arrived at three in the afternoon at Comi-Sourignan, a pretty village, situated on a hill, and containing about one hundred and fifty inhabitants. The aspect of the surrounding country was beautiful; it was interspersed with fine hills, covered with brilliant verdure. The soil, which is of a yellow colour, is very productive. The village, enclosed by a quick-set hedge, is very clean. The huts are surrounded by gardens, containing plantations of pistachio-nuts, cassavas, caribbee cabbages, and other things. These gardens, which are cultivated by women and children, are kept in very good order, and the little paths leading to the huts are cleanly swept. The chief, in whose presence we said the prayer, invited Ibrahim and me to his hut, where he made us partake of his dinner, consisting of boiled rice with a little sour milk. We seated ourselves on a mat, near a little fire; for fires are always kept burning here, on account of the humidity of the climate. When our repast was ended, the wife of the chief came and sat down beside us. She listened in silence to our conversation: we were speaking of the christians, who are always objects of contempt among these people. The wife of the chief kindly asked me to take a little milk, and then she went to gather some figs and bananas, and put them into a clean calabash, which she gave to me and my guide. This woman had a pleasing countenance, and her dress, which was very clean, consisted of two breadths of cotton cloth of the manufacture of the country. She had not the offensive smell of the women of the roving Foulahs of Irnanké. The hut was large and in good order; the floor was adorned with handsome designs, made of earth. We passed the night in this pretty village.

At half-past five, on the morning of the 30th of April, we took leave of our kind hosts, and proceeded to the S.E., crossing an extensive plain, apparently susceptible of high cultivation. In descending, we turned an elevated plain, situated in the province of Timbi. The plain in this part is covered with red rocks, level with the ground; the country is, generally, very open. We saw several hillocks within the distance of seven or eight miles round us. We met a Bondou negro, who said that he had come from Boulibané, the capital of the country, and was going on a trading expedition to Kakondy: he had nothing with him but gold. I was very much astonished that this man should undertake so long and difficult a journey on foot, when he was within reach of our establishments at Bakel, which are provided with all sorts of merchandise. We proceeded eastward, crossing a pretty valley, situated between two hills, and containing three villages; the largest is Telewel: its population is, at most, five hundred. I was overtaken by a Foulah, accompanied by one of his wives, carrying on her head a calabash full of milk, which he begged me to accept. Ibrahim, my guide, having stopped for a short time, had informed this Foulah that I was an Arab from the neighbourhood of Mecca, and related to him my adventure at Alexandria. The zealous disciple of the prophet thought that he was performing a meritorious action in the eye of God by giving me a little milk. When he left us he extended his hand to me, and wished me a speedy return to my country. The road now became somewhat more stony, and we halted for a short time beneath the shade of some trees to wait for our companions. Several women brought us bananas and figs, fourteen of which I purchased for three glass beads.

We pursued our journey across a plain, composed of a yellow fertile kind of earth, and we next arrived at Bouma, a village situated near a pretty little stream; the silvery waters flow over a bed of granite in a S.E. direction. This stream falls in cascades, the murmur of which is heard at a considerable distance. After passing this place, we came to enormous rocks of granite level with the ground; our road was interspersed with those little hillocks with which all this part of the country is covered. When we approached Bouma-Filasso, a village on the declivity of a mountain, I saw a great deal of indigo growing spontaneously; I also saw some cotton plantations. The country is clothed with superb vegetation, and has a very beautiful aspect. I remarked several spots recently cleared for planting. We descended a hill, at the foot of which runs the river Cocoulo, which at this part is about forty or forty-five paces wide; it flows rapidly over a bed of granite from N.N.E. to S.W.: where we forded it, the water was more than knee-deep. In several places its bed is dry, and it is necessary to walk over large masses of granite covered with mud, which renders the passage slippery and dangerous. At a little distance from this place it falls over a precipice to the depth of sixty feet, making a terrific noise. I stopped for a short time to contemplate this cataract. The Cocoulo runs among high mountains covered with large trees, among which the native plum-tree is very abundant. After crossing the river, we proceeded S.S.E.; we passed near Marca, a small village, containing from two hundred and fifty to three hundred inhabitants, and situated on a very fertile soil. About three o’clock we passed Dayeb. The road was stony from this place to Tin-foulasso, a village surrounded by cotton plantations, in a plain of grey fertile sand. At five in the afternoon we halted, much fatigued, at Gnéré-temilé, having travelled twelve miles in the course of the day. During our halt a violent storm arose. As I was an object of general curiosity, the inhabitants came out in crowds to look at me; some brought me little presents of milk and smoked meat. Many of these poor creatures had ulcers in different parts of their bodies: I became their physician; and I gave them some caustics (nitrate of silver) and lint. They evinced their gratitude by sending me a good supper. Ibrahim, fearing that I should consume all my stock of medicaments, strongly advised me not to give them any more, alleging as a reason for this uncharitableness, that they might take me for a christian.

At six o’clock in the morning of the 1st of May, we left the village of Gnéré-temilé, the population of which is about two hundred and fifty. The rain of the preceding evening purified the atmosphere and added new charms to the surrounding scenery. We journeyed on cheerfully to E.S.E. I saw an ourondé, or slave village, surrounded by good plantations of bananas, cotton, cassavas, and yams. We passed Maraca, after which we found ourselves in a sandy plain, containing several small slave villages, and sat down beneath a tree to wait for some of our party, who were lingering behind.

The negroes of the village of Bourwel brought us some delicious oranges: after eating them we pursued our journey along the side of a deep valley adorned with large trees. Having descended a rapid slope, we came to very fertile land. About two in the afternoon we halted at Popoco, situated in the plain, having travelled eight miles since morning.