Chapter X: Part 10

18. Coffee is a universal drink, but it finds more favor in some countries than others. The hospitality of a Turkish home is never thought to be complete without the serving of coffee to its guests; however, the coffee made by the Turks is not pleasant except to those who are accustomed to drinking it. As prepared in Turkey and the East, a small amount of boiling water is poured over the coffee, which is powdered and mixed with sugar, and the resulting beverage, which is very thick, is served in a small cup without cream. The French make a concoction known as _cafe an lait_, which, as explained in _Essentials of Cookery_, Part 2, is a combination of coffee and milk. These two ingredients are heated separately in equal proportions and then mixed before serving. This is a very satisfactory way in which to serve coffee if cream cannot be obtained.

19. OBTAINING THE COFFEE SEEDS.--The seeds of the coffee tree are enclosed in pairs, with their flat surfaces toward each other, in dark, cherry-like berries. The pulp of the berry is softened by fermentation and then removed, leaving the seeds enclosed in a husk. They are then separated from the husks by being either sun-dried and rolled or reduced to a soft mass in water with the aid of a pulping machine. With the husks removed, the seeds are packed into coarse cloth bags and distributed.

20. ROASTING THE COFFEE BEANS.--The next step in the preparation of coffee for use is the roasting of the coffee beans. After being separated from the husks, the beans have a greenish-yellow color, but during the roasting process, when they are subjected to high temperature and must be turned constantly to prevent uneven roasting, they turn to a dark brown. As the roasting also develops the flavor, it must be done carefully. Some persons prefer to buy unroasted coffee and roast it at home in an oven, but it is more economical to purchase coffee already roasted. In addition, the improved methods of roasting produce coffee of a better flavor, for they accomplish this by machinery especially devised for the purpose.

21. GRINDING THE COFFEE BEANS.--During the roasting process there is developed an aromatic volatile oil, called _caffeol_, to which the flavor of the coffee is due. This oil is very strong, but upon being exposed to the air it passes off and thus causes a loss of flavor in the coffee. For this reason, roasted coffee should be kept in air-tight cans, boxes, or jars. Before it is used, however, it must be ground. The grinding of the coffee beans exposes more surface and hence the flavor is more quickly lost from ground than unground coffee. Because of this fact and because ground coffee can be adulterated very easily, it is not wise to buy coffee already ground. If only a small quantity is bought at a time and it can be used up at once, the grinding may be done by the grocer, but even in such a case the better plan is to grind it immediately before using it.

22. The method by which the coffee is to be prepared for drinking will determine to a large extent the way in which the coffee beans must be ground. When coffee is to be made by a method in which the grounds are not left in the water for any length of time, the beans must be ground very fine, in fact, pulverized, for the flavor must be extracted quickly. For other purposes, such as when it is to be made in a percolator, the beans need not be ground quite so fine, and when it is to be made in an ordinary coffee pot they may be ground very coarse.

23. For use in the home, simple coffee mills that will grind coffee as coarse or as fine as may be desired are to be had. Fig. 1 shows two of the common types of home coffee mills.

The one shown in (_a_) is fastened to a board so that it can be attached to the wall. The coffee to be ground is put in the chamber _a_, from which it is fed to the grinding rolls, and the ground coffee drops into the chamber _b_. The grinding rolls are adjusted to the desired fineness by the notched arrangement on the end of the shaft.

The coffee mill shown in (_b_) may be placed on a table top or some other flat surface, but it operates on the same principle as the other. The coffee beans are placed in the chamber at the top, and the ground coffee drops into the drawer _a_ at the bottom. The adjustment of the grinding rolls is regulated by the notched head at the end of the vertical shaft.

24. ADULTERATION OF COFFEE.--As in the case of numerous other foods, attempts are often made to adulterate coffee. Since the Pure Food Laws have been enforced, there is not so much danger of adulteration in a product of this kind; still, every housewife should be familiar with the ways in which this beverage may be reduced in strength or quality, so that she may be able to tell whether she is getting a good or an inferior product for her money.

Coffee may be adulterated in a number of ways. Ground coffee is especially easy to adulterate with bread crumbs, bran, and similar materials that have been thoroughly browned. Many of the cheaper coffees are adulterated with chicory, a root that has a flavor similar to that of coffee and gives the beverages with which it is used a reddish-brown color. Chicory is not harmful; in fact, its flavor is sought by some people, particularly the French. The objection to it, as well as to other adulterants, is that it is much cheaper than coffee and the use of it therefore increases the profits of the dealer. The presence of chicory in coffee can be detected by putting a small amount of the ground coffee in a glass of water. If chicory is present, the water will become tinged with red and the chicory will settle to the bottom more quickly than the coffee.

PREPARATION OF COFFEE

25. SELECTION OF COFFEE.--Many varieties of coffee are to be had, but Mocha, Java, and Rio are the ones most used. A single variety, however, is seldom sold alone, because a much better flavor can be obtained from _blend coffee_, by which is meant two or more kinds of coffee mixed together.

It is usually advisable to buy as good a quality of coffee as can be afforded. The more expensive coffees have better flavor and greater strength than the cheaper grades and consequently need not be used in such great quantity. It is far better to serve this beverage seldom and to have what is served the very best than to serve it so often that a cheap grade must be purchased. For instance, some persons think that they must have coffee for at least two out of three daily meals, but it is usually sufficient if coffee is served once a day, and then for the morning or midday meal rather than for the evening meal.

After deciding on the variety of coffee that is desired, it is well to buy unground beans that are packed in air-tight packages. Upon receiving the coffee in the home, it should be poured into a jar or a can and kept tightly covered.

26. NECESSARY UTENSILS.--Very few utensils are required for coffee making, but they should be of the best material that can be afforded in order that good results may be had. A coffee pot, a coffee percolator, and a drip pot, or coffee biggin, are the utensils most frequently used for the preparation of this beverage.

27. If a COFFEE POT is preferred, it should be one made of material that will withstand the heat of a direct flame. The cheapest coffee pots are made of tin, but they are the least desirable and should be avoided, for the tin, upon coming in contact with the tannic acid contained in coffee, sometimes changes the flavor. Coffee pots made of enamelware are the next highest in price. Then come nickel-plated ones, and, finally, the highest-priced ones, which are made of aluminum. The usual form of plain coffee pot is shown in Fig. 2.

28. PERCOLATORS are very desirable for the making of coffee, for they produce excellent results and at the same time make the preparation of coffee easy. Those having an electric attachment are especially convenient. One form of percolator is shown in Fig. 3. In this percolator, the ground coffee is put in the filter cup _a_ and the water in the lower part of the pot _b_. The water immediately passes into the chamber _c_, as shown by the arrows. In this chamber, which is small, it heats rapidly and then rises through the vertical tube _d_. At the top _e_, it comes out in the form of a spray, strikes the glass top, and falls back on a perforated metal plate _f_, called the spreader. It then passes through this plate into the filter cup containing the grounds, through which it percolates and drops into the main chamber. The circulation of the water continues as long as sufficient heat is applied, and the rate of circulation depends on the degree of heat.

29. The DRIP POT, or _coffee biggin_, as it is sometimes called, one type of which is shown in Fig. 4, is sometimes preferred for the making of coffee. This utensil is made of metal or earthenware and operates on the same principle as a percolator. The ground coffee is suspended above the liquid in a cloth bag or a perforated receptacle and the water percolates through it.

30. In case a more complicated utensil than any of those mentioned is used for the making of coffee, the directions that accompany it will have to be followed. But no matter what kind of utensil is selected for the preparation of coffee, it should be thoroughly cleaned each time it is used. To clean it, first empty any coffee it contains and then wash every part carefully and scald and dry it. If the utensil is not clean, the flavor of the coffee made in it will be spoiled.

31. METHODS OF MAKING COFFEE.--Several methods are followed in the making of coffee, the one to select depending on the result desired and the kind of utensil to be used. The most common of these methods are: _boiling_, which produces a decoction; _infusion_, or _filtration_, which consists in pouring boiling water over very finely ground coffee in order to extract its properties; and _percolating_, in which boiling water percolates, or passes through, finely ground coffee and extracts its flavor. For any of these methods, soft water is better than water that contains a great deal of lime. Many times persons cannot understand why coffee that is excellent in one locality is poor in another. In the majority of cases, this variation is due to the difference in the water and not to the coffee. From 1 to 2 tablespoonfuls of coffee to 1 cupful of water is the usual proportion followed in making coffee.

32. BOILED COFFEE.--Without doubt, coffee is more often boiled in its preparation than treated in any other way. Usually, an ordinary coffee pot is all that is required in this method of preparation. The amount of ground coffee used may be varied to obtain the desired strength.

BOILED COFFEE (Sufficient to Serve Six)

1 c. cold water 1/2 c. ground coffee 3 c. boiling water

After scalding the coffee pot, put 1/2 cupful of the cold water and the ground coffee into it. Stir well and then add the boiling water. Allow it to come to the boiling point and boil for 3 minutes. Pour a little of the coffee into a cup to clear the spout of grounds, add the remaining cupful of cold water, and put back on the stove to reheat, but not to boil. When hot, serve at once. Never allow the liquid to stand on the grounds for any length of time, for the longer it stands the more tannic acid will be drawn out.

33. As coffee made by boiling is usually somewhat cloudy, it may be cleared in one way or another. The last cold water is added for this purpose, for as it is heavier than the warm liquid it sinks to the bottom and carries the grounds with it. Coffee may also be cleared by stirring a small quantity of beaten raw egg, either the white or the yolk, or both, into the grounds before the cold water is added to them. One egg will clear two or three potfuls of coffee if care is exercised in its use. What remains of the egg after the first potful has been cleared should be placed in a small dish and set away for future use. A little cold water poured over it will assist in preserving it. If the egg shells are washed before the egg is broken, they may be crushed and added to the grounds also, for they will help to clear the coffee. The explanation of the use of egg for this purpose is that it coagulates as the coffee heats and carries the particles of coffee down with it as it sinks.

34. Another very satisfactory way in which to make boiled coffee is to tie the ground coffee loosely into a piece of cheesecloth, pour the boiling water over it, and then let it boil for a few minutes longer than in the method just given. Coffee prepared in this manner will be found to be clear and therefore need not be treated in any of the ways mentioned.

35. FILTERED COFFEE.--When it is desired to make coffee by the filtering process, the coffee must be ground into powder. Then it should be made in a drip, or French, coffee pot. If one of these is not available, cheesecloth of several thicknesses may be substituted. The advantage of making coffee by this method is that the coffee grounds may sometimes be used a second time.

FILTERED COFFEE (Sufficient to Serve Six)

1/2 c. powdered coffee 1 qt. boiling water

Place the coffee in the top of the drip pot, pour the boiling water over it, and allow the water to drip through into the vessel below. When all has run through, remove the water and pour it over the coffee a second time. If cheesecloth is to be used, put the coffee in it, suspend it over the coffee pot or other convenient utensil, and proceed as with the drip pot.

36. PERCOLATED COFFEE.--The coffee used for percolated coffee should be ground finer than for boiled coffee, but not so fine as for filtered coffee. This is perhaps the easiest way in which to prepare coffee and at the same time the surest method of securing good coffee.

PERCOLATED COFFEE (Sufficient to Serve Six)

1/2 c. finely ground coffee 1 qt. cold water

Place the coffee in the perforated compartment in the top of the percolator and pour the cold water in the lower chamber. As the water heats, it is forced up through the vertical tube against the top. It then falls over the coffee and percolates through into the water below. This process begins before the water boils, but the hotter the water becomes the more rapidly does it percolate through the coffee. The process continues as long as the heat is applied, and the liquid becomes stronger in flavor as it repeatedly passes through the coffee. When the coffee has obtained the desired strength, serve at once.

37. AFTER-DINNER COFFEE.--After a rather elaborate meal, a small cup of very strong, black coffee is often served. To prepare after-dinner coffee, as this kind is called, follow any of the methods already explained, but make it twice as strong as coffee that is to accompany the usual meal. Sugar and cream may be added to after-dinner coffee, but usually this coffee is drunk black and unsweetened.

38. VIENNA COFFEE.--An especially nice way in which to serve coffee is to combine it with boiled milk and whipped cream. It is then known as Vienna coffee. The accompanying directions are for just 1 cup, as this is prepared a cupful at a time.

VIENNA COFFEE (Sufficient to Serve One)

1/4 c. boiled milk 3 Tb. whipped cream 1/2 c. hot filtered coffee, or coffee prepared by any method

Place the boiled milk in a cup, add the whipped cream, and fill the cup with the hot coffee.

39. ICED COFFEE.--Persons fond of coffee find iced coffee a most delicious hot-weather drink. Iced coffee is usually served in a glass, as shown in Fig. 5, rather than in a cup, and when whipped cream is added an attractive beverage results.

To prepare iced coffee, make coffee by any desired method, but if the boiling method is followed be careful to strain the liquid so that it is entirely free from grounds. Cool the liquid and then pour into glasses containing cracked ice. Serve with plain cream and sugar or with a tablespoonful or two of whipped cream. If desired, however, the cream may be omitted and the coffee served with an equal amount of milk, when it is known as _iced cafe au lait_.

40. LEFT-OVER COFFEE.--The aim of the person who prepares coffee should be to make the exact quantity needed, no more nor no less, and this can usually be done if directions are carefully followed. However, if any coffee remains after all are served, it should not be thrown away, as it can be utilized in several ways. Drain the liquid from the grounds as soon as possible so that the flavor will not be impaired.

If desired, left-over coffee may be added to fresh coffee when it is prepared for the next meal or, in hot weather, it may be used for iced coffee. It may also be used to flavor gelatine, which, when sweetened and served with whipped cream, makes an excellent dessert. Again, left-over coffee is very satisfactory as a flavoring for cake icing, for custards, or for whipped cream that is to be served with desserts. When coffee is desired for flavoring, it should be boiled in order to evaporate some of the water. Very good cake is made by using left-over coffee for the liquid and spices for the flavoring.

SERVING COFFEE

41. The serving of coffee may be done in several ways, but, with the exception of iced coffee, this beverage should always be served as hot as possible. As can well be imagined, nothing is more insipid than lukewarm coffee. Therefore, coffee is preferably made immediately before it is to be served. Sugar and cream usually accompany coffee, but they may be omitted if they are not desired.

Coffee may be served with the dinner course, with the dessert, or after the dessert. When it is served with the dinner course or the dessert, a coffee cup or a tea cup of ordinary size is used; but when it is served after the dessert, a demi-tasse, or small cup that holds less than half the amount of the other size, is preferable. Usually, after-dinner coffee, or _cafe noir_, as such black coffee is called, rather than coffee with cream and sugar, is served after the dessert course of a heavy dinner because it is supposed to be stimulating to the digestion.

The pouring of coffee may be done at the table or in the kitchen. If it is done at the table, the person serving should ask those to be served whether or not they desire cream and sugar, and then serve accordingly. If it is done before the coffee is brought to the table, the cream and sugar should be passed, so that those served may help themselves to the desired amount. Care should always be taken in the serving of coffee not to fill the cup so full that it will run over or that it will be too full to handle easily when the cream and sugar are added.

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TEA

HISTORY AND PRODUCTION

42. TEA consists of the prepared leaves or leaf buds of a plant known as the tea plant and is used as one of the three stimulating beverages. This plant is grown in China, Japan, India, Ceylon, and the East Indies, and to a small extent in South Carolina. There are two distinct varieties of tea, and each one may be used for the preparation of either green or black tea. The leaves of the tea plant, which are what is used for making the beverage, are gathered four times a year from the time the plants are 4 years old until they are 10 or 12 years old. Then the plants are pulled up and new ones planted. Upon being gathered, the leaves are put through a series of processes before they are ready for use. During this treatment, various modifications of flavor are developed and the leaves are changed in color to black or green, depending on the process used.

43. It is surprising to most persons to learn that tea was known in China for many years before people began to make a beverage of it. The first record of its use as a beverage was probably in the 6th century, when an infusion of tea leaves was given to a ruler of the Chinese Empire to cure a headache. A century later, tea had come into common use as a beverage in that country. As civilization advanced and new countries were formed, tea was introduced as a beverage, and today there is scarcely a locality in which it is not commonly used.

44. CLASSIFICATION OF TEA AS TO QUALITY.--The position of the leaf on the tea plant determines the quality of the tea. The farther from the top, the coarser are the leaves and the poorer is the quality. On the other hand, the smaller the leaves and the nearer the top, the better is the quality. In the very best qualities of tea, the buds of the plant are included with the tiny top leaves.

45. Tea that is raised in China is graded in a particular way, and it will be well to understand this grading. The top buds are used entirely for a variety known as _flowery pekoe_, but this is seldom found in our markets. The youngest leaves next to the buds are made into a tea called _orange pekoe_; the next older leaves are used for _pekoe_; the third, for _souchong first_; the fourth, for _souchong second_; the fifth, for _congou_; and if there is another leaf, it is made into a tea known as _bohea_. Sometimes the first three leaves are mixed, and when this is done the tea is called _pekoe_. If they are mixed with the next two, the tea is called _souchong pekoe_. The laws controlling the importation of tea require that each shipment be tested before it passes the custom house, to determine whether or not it contains what the label claims for it.

46. VARIETIES OF TEA.--The teas that are put on the market are of two general varieties, _black tea_ and _green tea_. Any quality of tea or tea raised in any country may be made into these two kinds, for, as has been mentioned, it is the method of preparation that is accountable for the difference. A number of the common brands of tea are blends or mixtures of green and black tea. These, which are often called _mixed teas_, are preferred by many persons to the pure tea of either kind.

47. BLACK TEA is made by fermenting the tea leaves before they are dried. This fermentation turns them black and produces a marked change in their flavor. The process of preparation also renders some of the tannin insoluble; that is, not so much of it can be dissolved when the beverage is made. Some well-known brands of black tea are _China congou_, or _English breakfast_, _Formosa_, _oolong_, and the various _pekoes_. The English are especially fond of black tea, and the people of the United States have followed their custom to the extent that it has become a favorite in this country.

48. GREEN TEA is made by steaming the leaves and then drying them, a process that retains the green color. With tea of this kind, all fermentation of the leaves is carefully avoided. Some familiar kinds of green tea are _hyson_, _Japan_, and _gunpowder_. The best of these are the ones that come from Japan.

PREPARATION OF TEA

49. SELECTION OF TEA.--In the course of its preparation, tea is rolled either into long, slender pieces or into little balls. Knowing this, the housewife should be able to detect readily the stems and other foreign material sometimes found in teas, especially the cheaper varieties. Such teas should be avoided, for they are lacking not only in flavor but also in strength. If economy must be practiced, the moderately expensive grades will prove to be the best ones to buy.

50. METHODS OF MAKING TEA.--Upon steeping tea in hot water, a very pleasant beverage results. If this is properly made, a gentle stimulant that can be indulged in occasionally by normal adults without harmful results can be expected. However, the value of tea as a beverage has at all times been much overestimated. When it is served as afternoon tea, as is frequently done, its chief value lies in the pleasant hospitality that is afforded by pouring it. Especially is this the case in England, where the inhabitants have adopted the pretty custom of serving afternoon tea and feel that guests have not received the hospitality of the home until tea has been served. Through their continued use of this beverage, the English have become expert in tea making.

51. The Russians are also adepts so far as the making of tea is concerned. They use a very good kind of tea, called _caravan tea_, which is packed in lead-covered packages and brought to them by caravans. This method of packing and delivery is supposed to have a ripening effect on the leaves and to give them an unusually good flavor. For making tea, the Russians use an equipment called a _samovar_. This is an urn that is constantly kept filled with boiling water, so that tea can be served to all visitors or callers that come, no matter what time of day they arrive.

52. Most persons, however, make tea into a beverage by steeping it in boiling water or by placing it in a tea ball or some similar utensil and then allowing it to stand in boiling water for a short time. Whichever method of preparation is followed, the water must be at the boiling point and it must be freshly boiled. Water that has been boiled for any length of time becomes very insipid and flat to the taste and affects the flavor of the tea. Tea leaves that have been used once should never be resteeped, for more tannin is extracted than is desirable and the good tea flavor is lost, producing a very unwholesome beverage. As a rule, 1 to 1-1/2 teaspoonfuls of tea to 1 cupful of water is the proportion followed in tea making.

53. STEEPED TEA.--When tea is to be steeped, a teapot is used. That the best results may be secured, the teapot should always be freshly scalded and the water freshly boiled.

STEEPED TEA (Sufficient to Serve Six)

2 Tb. tea 1 qt. boiling water

Scald the teapot. Put the tea into the teapot and pour the boiling water over it. Let stand on the back of the stove for 3 minutes, when a beverage of sufficient strength will be formed. Strain the beverage from the tea leaves and serve at once.

54. AFTERNOON TEA.--When tea is desired for afternoon serving or when it is to be prepared at the table, a _tea ball_ is the most satisfactory utensil to use. This is a perforated silver or aluminum ball, such as shown in Fig. 6, which opens by means of a hinge and into which the tea is placed. For convenience in use, a chain is attached to the ball and ends in a ring that is large enough to slip over the finger. Some teapots contain a ball attached to the inside of the lid and suspended inside the pot. Utensils of this kind are very convenient, for when the tea made in them becomes strong enough, the leaves may be removed without pouring off the tea.

To prepare afternoon tea with a tea ball, put 1 or 2 teaspoonfuls of tea in the ball, fasten it securely, and place it in a cup. Then pour enough freshly boiled water over the ball to fill the cup to the desired height. Allow the ball to remain in the water until the desired strength is attained and then remove it. If more than 2 or 3 persons are to be served, it will be necessary to refill the ball.

55. ICED TEA.--Perhaps one of the most refreshing drinks for warm weather is iced tea. A tea that is especially blended for this purpose and that is cheaper in price than other tea may be purchased. Slices of lemon or crushed mint leaves add much to the flavor of the tea and are often served with it.

Prepare tea by steeping it, but make it double strength. Strain it from the leaves and allow it to become cool. Then pour it into glasses containing cracked ice. Serve with sugar and slices of lemon or mint leaves.

56. LEFT-OVER TEA.--Tea that remains after all persons are served need not be wasted if it is poured off the leaves at once. Such tea is satisfactory for iced tea, or it may be combined with certain fruit juices in the preparation of various cold beverages. However, there are not many satisfactory uses for left-over tea; so it is best to take pains not to make more than will be required for one time.

SERVING TEA

57. Tea may be served as an accompaniment to meals or with small sandwiches, dainty cakes, or macaroons as an afternoon ceremony. If it is served with meals and is poured at the table, the hostess or the one pouring asks those to be served whether they desire sugar and cream and then uses these accompaniments accordingly. In the event that it is brought to the table poured, the sugar and cream are passed and those served may help themselves to what they desire. Lemon adds much to the flavor of tea and is liked by most persons. A dish of sliced lemon may be passed with the cream and sugar or placed where the hostess may add it to the tea. The Russians, who are inveterate tea drinkers, prepare this beverage by putting a slice of lemon in the cup and then pouring the hot tea over it. If this custom is followed, the lemons should be washed and sliced very thin and the seeds should be removed from the slices. The flavor may also be improved by sticking a few cloves in each slice of lemon; or, if the clove flavor is desired, several cloves may be put in the teapot when the tea is made. Fig. 7 shows slices of lemons ready to be served with tea. Some of them, as will be observed, have cloves stuck in them.

Lemon is almost always served with iced tea, for it adds a delightful flavor. If it is not squeezed into the glass, it should be cut into quarters or eighths lengthwise and then cut across so that small triangular pieces are formed. These are much easier to handle than whole slices.

58. In the serving of afternoon tea, the pouring of the tea is the main thing, and the remainder of the service simply complements this pleasant ceremony. Tiny sandwiches, small cakes, or macaroons usually accompany the tea, while such confections as candied orange peel, stuffed dates, or salted nuts are often served also. When sandwiches are used, they may be merely bread-and-butter sandwiches or they may contain marmalade or any desired filling. The principal requirement is that they be made as small and thin as possible, so that they will be extremely dainty in appearance.

59. A _tea cozy_ is a convenient device to use when tea is served from the pot. It consists of a padded cap, or cover, that may be slipped over the teapot to prevent the heat from escaping after the tea is infused. It is made of several thicknesses of material in a shape and size that will slip over the teapot easily and can then be removed when the tea is to be poured. This can be made very attractive by means of a nicely embroidered cover.

60. Fig. 8 shows an attractive table that may be used for serving tea. The top folds over vertically, so that when the table is not in use it may be disposed of by placing it against the wall of a room. This table holds nothing except the pot containing the tea, which must be made in the kitchen and placed in the pot before it is brought to the table, the sugar and cream, the teacups, and the lemon. Sandwiches, wafers, or cakes that are to be served with the tea should be passed to the guests.

61. Fig. 9 shows a tea wagon and the equipment for making tea, with the sandwiches and cakes to be served arranged on a muffin stand, or Lazy Susan. When tea is to be made with an equipment of this kind, the water is heated in the little kettle by means of the alcohol burner. The can with the long spout contains an extra supply of alcohol with which to keep the burner filled. The tea ball, which is in the little glass, is filled with tea and the boiling water is poured over it into each cup. The ball is allowed to remain until the tea is of the desired strength, when it is removed and used for another cup, provided sufficient strength remains in the tea leaves.

The silver tea caddy at the back of the wagon contains the tea, and lemon with a fork for serving it is on a small plate near the front of the wagon. Napkins and plates for the cakes and sandwiches are on the lower part of the wagon. The napkins and plates are first passed; then the tea is served with the sandwiches, after which cakes are served.

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COCOA AND CHOCOLATE

NATURE AND SELECTION

62. COCOA and CHOCOLATE are made from the fruit of the cacao, or chocolate, tree. This tree is native to Mexico, where cocoa was first used as a beverage, but it is also grown in South America and the West Indies. The fruit of this tree was named _cocoa Theobroma_, which means "food for the gods," because of its excellent flavor. The original natives of Mexico and Peru used cocoa in place of money. When the Spanish invaded these countries, they learned its use and took it back to Spain, where it is still a popular beverage. In many localities in Spain it became a fashionable morning drink, but it was also served at other times.

63. PRODUCTION OF COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.--The fruit of the cacao tree is in the form of pods from 6 to 10 inches in length and 3 to 4 inches in diameter. These pods are filled with a white, pulpy mass in which are embedded from twenty to forty seeds about twice the size and very much the shape of kidney beans. Fig. 10 shows the three stages of the treatment through which the seeds are put before they can be used for a beverage. After they are removed from the pod, they are fermented and then dried, when they appear as at _a_. In this form they are packed in bags and distributed. The beans are then roasted to develop their flavor and are crushed into small pieces called _cocoa nibs_, as shown at _b_. The cocoa nibs are then ground fine, when they become almost a liquid mass because of the very large amount of fat contained in cocoa. To make the ordinary _bitter chocolate_ used so extensively for cooking purposes, this mass is run into shallow pans, where it hardens as it cools. It is often flavored and sweetened and then forms the confection known as _sweet chocolate_. The application of pressure to bitter chocolate extracts considerable fat, which is known as _cocoa butter_ and is used largely in creams and toilet preparations. The remaining material is ground into a powder, as shown at _c_, and becomes the _commercial cocoa_.

To prevent the formation of a large amount of sediment in the bottom of the cup, cocoa is treated with various kinds of alkali. Some of these remain in the cocoa and are supposed to be harmful if it is taken in any quantity. The cocoas that are treated with alkali are darker in color than the others. The Dutch cocoas are considered to be the most soluble and also contain the most alkali.

64. SELECTION OF COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.--Chocolate is usually pure in the form in which it is sold, because it does not offer much chance for adulteration. However, the volume of cocoa can be easily increased by cheaper materials, such as starch, ground cocoa shells, etc. Cocoa so adulterated should be avoided if possible. Generally the best brands, although higher in price than others, are free from adulteration, and from these a selection should be made. The particular brand of chocolate or cocoa to buy must be governed by the taste of those to whom it is to be served.

PREPARATION OF COCOA AND CHOCOLATE

65. As a beverage, cocoa probably has greater use than chocolate; still there are some who prefer the flavor of chocolate to that of cocoa. Directions for preparing beverages from both of these materials are given, with the intention that the housewife may decide for herself which one she prefers to use. For either one, any ordinary saucepan or kettle may be used, but those made of enamel or aluminum are best. Of these two materials, aluminum is the better, for milk is less liable to scorch in a vessel of this kind than in one of any other material.

66. When chocolate is to be used for a beverage, the amount required varies with the strength desired. Recipes for bitter chocolate usually give the amount in squares, but no difficulty will be experienced in determining the amount, for the cakes of chocolate are marked in squares of 1 ounce each. If sweet chocolate is used, less sugar should, of course, be added to the beverage.

67. In all but the first of the recipes that follow, it will be observed that milk is used for a part of the liquid. The quantity given makes an excellent beverage, but more or less may be used if desired. However, if the quantity of milk is changed, the quantity of water should be changed accordingly. Condensed or evaporated milk may be utilized very nicely in the making of these two beverages. Milk of this kind should, of course, be diluted, a half-pint can requiring 2 to 3 cupfuls of water. If condensed milk is used, less sugar than the recipe calls for may be employed. A few drops of vanilla added just before serving always improves the flavor of cocoa or chocolate.

68. PLAIN COCOA.--The quickest and cheapest method of making cocoa is explained in the recipe that follows. It may be prepared in a saucepan and poured into the cups or it may be made in the cups themselves. To improve the flavor of cocoa made in this way, as well as add to its food value, cream should be served with it. Salt also is used to improve the flavor of all cocoa and chocolate beverages.

PLAIN COCOA (Sufficient to Serve Six)

2-1/2 Tb. cocoa 2-1/2 Tb. sugar Few grains of salt 4 c. boiling water

Mix the cocoa, sugar, and salt, form into a paste by stirring in a little of the water, and then add the remainder of the water. Serve with cream.

69. BREAKFAST COCOA.--Delicious cocoa can be made by following the directions given in the accompanying recipe. Here milk and water are used in equal amounts. When milk is used in the preparation of this beverage, a scum of albumin is likely to form on the top of the cups unless care is taken. To prevent this, the cocoa, as soon as it is prepared, should be beaten with a rotary egg beater until a fine froth forms on top. This process is known as _milling_, and should always be applied whenever milk is used in the preparation of these beverages.

BREAKFAST COCOA (Sufficient to Serve Six)

2 c. milk 2 Tb. cocoa 2 Tb. sugar Few grains of salt 2 c. boiling water

Scald the milk. Mix the cocoa, sugar, and salt, form into a paste by stirring in a little of the boiling water, and then add the scalded milk and the remainder of the water. Beat with an egg beater until a froth is formed and serve at once.

70. RICH COCOA.--There are times when it is desired to serve rich cocoa, as, for instance, with a lunch that is not high in food value or with wafers at afternoon social affairs. The accompanying recipe explains how to make cocoa that will be suitable for such occasions.

RICH COCOA (Sufficient to Serve Six)

4 c. milk 3 Tb. cocoa 1/4 c. sugar Few grains of salt 1/2 c. boiling water

Scald the milk. Stir the cocoa, sugar, and salt into a smooth paste with the boiling water and boil for 2 or 3 minutes. Add the scalded milk, mill, and serve.

71. CREAMY COCOA.--When there is not very much milk on hand and still a rich, creamy cocoa is desired, the accompanying recipe should be tried. As will be noted, flour is used in addition to the usual ingredients. While this is accountable for the creamy consistency of the cocoa, it should be remembered that the cocoa must be cooked long enough to remove the raw, starchy flavor of the flour.

CREAMY COCOA (Sufficient to Serve Six)

4 Tb. cocoa 1 Tb. flour 4 Tb. sugar Few grains of salt 2 c. boiling water 2 c. milk

Mix the cocoa, flour, sugar, and salt, and stir into a paste with some of the water. Add the rest of the water, cook for 5 minutes, and then add the milk, which has been scalded. Mill and serve.

72. HOT CHOCOLATE.--Very good hot chocolate can be made by following the directions here given. As will be noted, this recipe is similar to several of those given for cocoa, except that chocolate is substituted for the cocoa. It may therefore be used on any occasion when cocoa would be served. It is especially delicious when served with a tablespoonful or two of whipped cream.

HOT CHOCOLATE

2 c. milk 1-1/2 sq. unsweetened chocolate 1/4 c. sugar Few grains of salt 2 c. boiling water

Scald the milk. Melt the chocolate over the fire, add the sugar and salt, and gradually stir in the boiling water. Place over the fire, let boil for 2 or 3 minutes, and add the scalded milk. Mill and serve plain or with whipped cream.

73. ICED COCOA OR CHOCOLATE.--An excellent warm-weather beverage consists of cold cocoa or cold chocolate served either with or without sweetened whipped cream. Prepare the cocoa or chocolate according to any of the recipes already given and then allow it to cool. Fill glasses with cracked ice, pour the cocoa or chocolate over it, and serve either with or without sweetened whipped cream.

74. LEFT-OVER COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.--As the materials used in the preparation of cocoa and chocolate are rather expensive, not the slightest quantity of these beverages that remains after serving should be wasted. However, a small amount of chocolate usually has to be added so that it will have a stronger flavor. It may then be thickened with corn starch for chocolate blanc mange or with gelatine for chocolate jelly. Either of these served with whipped cream or a sauce of some kind makes an excellent dessert. Chocolate bread pudding may also be flavored with these left-over beverages.

It is also a good plan to utilize left-over cocoa or chocolate for flavoring purposes. However, additional cocoa or chocolate and sugar should first be added to it, and the mixture should then be boiled to a sirup. When so prepared it may be used whenever a chocolate flavoring is desired, such as for flavoring other beverages, cake icings, custards, sauces for desserts, and ice creams.

SERVING COCOA AND CHOCOLATE

75. When cocoa or chocolate is used to accompany meals, it is served in the usual sized teacup. However, when either of these beverages is served at receptions or instead of tea in the afternoon, regular chocolate cups, which hold only about half as much as teacups, are used. An attractive chocolate service to use for special occasions is shown in Fig. 11. The cocoa or chocolate is prepared in the kitchen, but is served to the guests from a chocolate pot, such as the one shown, in tall cups that match the chocolate pot in design. If such a service is not available, the cocoa or chocolate may be poured into the cups in the kitchen and then brought to the guests on a tray.

Besides sugar, which is generally added in the preparation of cocoa and chocolate, cream usually accompanies these beverages, especially when they are made without milk or with only a little. If the cream is whipped and slightly sweetened, a spoonful or two will be sufficient to render the beverage delightful. In case no cream is on hand, marshmallows make a very good substitute. One of these should be placed in the bottom of each cup and the hot beverage poured over it. The marshmallow softens and rises to the top. When marshmallows are to be added to cocoa, less sugar should be used in its preparation.

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NON-STIMULATING BEVERAGES

CEREAL BEVERAGES

76. NON-STIMULATING BEVERAGES are those which contain neither stimulant nor alcohol. They are the ones usually depended on to carry nutrition into the body and to provide the necessary refreshment. In this class of beverages come the various cereal beverages, fruit drinks, soft drinks, and milk-and-egg drinks. With the exception of the cereal beverages, these drinks are of a very refreshing nature, for they are served as cold as possible and they contain materials that make them very pleasing to the taste. Most of them can be prepared in the home at much less cost than they can be purchased commercially prepared or at soda fountains; so it is well for the housewife to be familiar with their nature and their preparation.

77. CEREAL BEVERAGES, as the name implies, are made from cereals. Of these, the _cereal coffees_ are perhaps the most common. They contain nothing that is harmful, and are slightly beneficial in that they assist in giving the body some of the necessary liquid. However, they have absolutely no food value and are therefore of no importance in the diet except to take the place of stimulating beverages that are likely to injure those who drink them. They are made of cereals to which sugar or molasses is added, and the whole is then baked until the cereals brown and the sugar caramelizes, the combination producing a flavor much like that of coffee. Plain roasted wheat or bran can be used very well as a substitute in the making of these beverages. In the parts of the country where rye is extensively grown, it is roasted in the oven until it is an even brown in color. It is then used almost exclusively by some persons to make _rye coffee_, a beverage that closely resembles coffee in flavor.

78. The _instantaneous cereal beverages_ are made by drawing all the flavor possible out of the material by means of water. The water is then evaporated and the hard substance that remains is ground until it is almost a powder. When water is added again, this substance becomes soluble instantly. _Instantaneous_ coffee is prepared in the same way. The way in which to use these beverages depends, of course, on the kind selected, but no difficulty will be experienced in their preparation, for explicit directions are always found in or on all packages containing them.

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FRUIT BEVERAGES

INGREDIENTS FOR FRUIT BEVERAGES

79. FRUIT BEVERAGES are those which contain fruit and fruit juices for their foundation. As there are many kinds of fruit that can be used for this purpose, almost endless variety can be obtained in the making of these beverages. One of the important features is that a great deal of nourishment can be incorporated into them by the materials used. In addition, the acids of fruits are slightly antiseptic and are stimulating to the digestion as well as beneficial to the blood.

80. Lemon juice, when mixed with other fruit juices, seems to intensify the flavor. Because of this fact, practically all the recipes for fruit beverages include this juice as one of the ingredients. The combination of pineapple and lemon yields a greater quantity of flavor for beverages, ices, etc. than any other two fruit flavors. Juice may be extracted from all fruits easily. To obtain lemon juice for a fruit beverage, first soften the fruit by pressing it between the hand and a hard surface, such as a table top, or merely soften it with the hands. Then cut it in two, crosswise, and drill the juice out, as shown in Fig. 12, by placing each half over a drill made of glass or aluminum and turning it around and around until all the juice is extracted. To remove the seeds and pulp, strain the juice through a wire strainer. The juice from oranges and grapefruit, if they are not too large, may be extracted in the same way.

81. It is not always necessary to extract juices from fresh fruit for fruit beverages; in fact, juice from canned fruit or juice especially canned for beverage making is the kind most frequently employed. For instance, in the canning of fruit there is often a large quantity of juice left over that most persons use for jelly. It is a good plan to can this juice just as it is and then use it with lemon juice or other fruit juices for these beverages. Also, juices that remain after all the fruit has been used from a can may be utilized in the same way, no matter what the kind or the quantity. In fact, unless otherwise stated in the recipes that follow, the fruit juices given, with the exception of orange and lemon juice, are those taken from canned fruit or juices canned especially for beverage making. These juices also lend themselves admirably to various other uses, for, as has already been learned, they are used in ices, gelatine desserts, salad dressing, pudding sauces, etc. Therefore, no fruit juice should ever be wasted.

82. The clear-fruit beverages become more attractive when they are garnished in some way. A slice of lemon, orange, or pineapple, or a fresh strawberry put into each glass improves the flavor and makes the beverage more appetizing. Red, yellow, and green cherries may be bought in bottles and used for such purposes. As these are usually preserved in wine and are artificially colored, many persons object to their use. A good substitute for them is candied cherries. These can be bought from any confectioner and do very well when a red decoration is desired.

PREPARATION OF FRUIT BEVERAGES

83. LEMONADE.--Next to water, no other drink is so refreshing nor quenches the thirst to so great an extent as lemonade. Lemonade is suitable for many occasions, and as lemons can be purchased at any time of the year it can be made at almost any season. The lemon sirup prepared for this beverage may be used as desired, for if it is put in a cool place it will keep for a long time. The more the sirup is boiled down, the better will it keep. A tablespoonful or two of glucose or corn sirup added to such mixtures when they are boiled will help to keep them from crystallizing when they stand.

LEMONADE (Sufficient to Serve Six)

1 c. sugar 1 qt. water 1/2 c. lemon juice

Make a sirup by boiling the sugar and water for a few minutes, and set aside to cool. Add the lemon juice and then dilute with ice water to suit the taste. Serve in glasses and garnish each one with a slice of lemon or a red cherry.

84. ORANGEADE.--While not so acid in flavor as lemonade, orangeade is also a delightful drink. On warm days, drinks of this kind should take the place of the hot ones that are generally used during the cold weather.

ORANGEADE (Sufficient to Serve Six)

3/4 c. sugar 1 qt. water 1/2 c. orange juice 3 Tb. lemon juice