Chapter VIII: Part 8

45. A thermometer that registers as high as 300 or 400 degrees Fahrenheit is a valuable asset in candy making when recipes giving the temperature to which the boiling must be carried are followed. A degree of accuracy can be obtained in this way by the inexperienced candy maker that cannot be matched with the usual tests. A small thermometer may be used, but the larger the thermometer, the easier will it be to determine the degrees on the mercury column. A new thermometer should always be tested to determine its accuracy. To do this, stand the thermometer in a small vessel of warm water, place the vessel over a flame, and allow the water to boil. If the thermometer does not register 212 degrees at boiling, the number of degrees more or less must be taken into account whenever the thermometer is used. For instance, if the thermometer registers 208 degrees at boiling and a recipe requires candy to be boiled to 238 degrees, it will be necessary to boil the candy to 234 degrees because the thermometer registers 4 degrees lower than it should.

46. The double boiler also finds a place in candy making. For melting chocolate, coating for bonbons, or fondant for reception wafers, a utensil of this kind is necessary. One that will answer the purpose very well may be improvised by putting a smaller pan into a larger one containing water. In using one of this kind, however, an effort should be made to have the pans exactly suited to each other in size; otherwise, the water in the lower pan will be liable to splash into the pan containing the material that is being heated.

For the coating of bonbons, a coating fork, which is merely a thin wire twisted to make a handle with a loop at one end, is the most convenient utensil to use. However, this is not satisfactory for coating with chocolate, a different method being required for this material.

47. A number of candies, such as fondant, bonbon creams, and cream centers for chocolates, can be made much more satisfactorily if, after they are boiled, they are poured on a flat surface to cool. Such treatment permits them to cool as quickly as possible in a comparatively thin layer and thus helps to prevent crystallization. When only a small amount of candy is to be made, a large platter, which is the easiest utensil to procure, produces fairly good results. For larger amounts, as, for instance, when candy is being made to sell, some more convenient arrangement must be made. The most satisfactory thing that has been found for cooling purposes is a marble slab such as is found on an old-fashioned table or dresser. If one of these is not available, and the kitchen or pastry table has a vitrolite or other heavy top resembling porcelain, this will make a very good substitute.

48. To prevent the hot candy from running off after it is poured on a slab or any similar flat surface, a device of some kind should be provided. A very satisfactory one consists of four metal bars about 3/4 to 1 inch in width and thickness and as long as desired to fit the slab, but usually about 18 inches in length. They may be procured from a factory where steel and iron work is done, or they may be purchased from firms selling candy-making supplies. These bars are merely placed on top of the slab or flat surface with the corners carefully fitted and the candy is then poured in the space between the bars. When it is desired to pour out fudge, caramels, and similar candies to harden before cutting, the metal bars may be fitted together and then placed on the slab in such a way as to be most convenient. Fudge, however, may be cooled satisfactorily in the pan in which it is cooked if the cooling is done very rapidly.

49. A satisfactory cooling slab may be improvised by fastening four pieces of wood together so as to fit the outside edge of the slab and extend an inch or more above the surface. If such a device is used, plaster of Paris should be poured around the edge of the slab to fill any space between the wood and the slab. In using a slab or similar surface for purposes of this kind, a point that should be remembered is that a part of it should never be greased, but should be reserved for the cooling of fondant and certain kinds of center creams, which require only a moistened surface.

50. Many of the candies that are turned out on a flat surface must be worked to make them creamy. For this purpose, nothing is quite so satisfactory as a putty knife or a wallpaper scraper. If a platter is used, a putty knife is preferable, for it has a narrower blade than a wallpaper scraper; but where candy is made in quantity and a large slab is used, the larger scraper does the work better. For use with a platter, a spoon is perhaps the best utensil when a putty knife is not in supply.

51. Scales are valuable in candy making because they permit exact measurements to be made. However, they are not an actual necessity, for almost all recipes give the ingredients by measure, and even if this is not done, they may be purchased in the desired weight or transposed into equivalent measure. Scales, of course, are required if it is desired to weigh out candy in small amounts or in boxes after it is made.

52. Waxed paper is a valuable addition to candy-making supplies, there being many occasions for its use. For instance, caramels and certain other candies must be wrapped and waxed paper is the most suitable kind for this purpose. Then, too, chocolate-coated candies and bonbons must be placed on a smooth surface to which they will not stick. Waxed paper is largely used for this purpose, although candy makers often prefer white oilcloth, because its surface is ideal and it can be cleansed and used repeatedly. Often a candy- or cracker-box lining that has been pressed smooth with a warm iron may be utilized. For such purposes, as when reception wafers are to be dropped, it is necessary that the surface of the paper used be absolutely unwrinkled.

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PROCEDURE IN CONFECTION MAKING

COOKING THE MIXTURE

53. WEATHER CONDITIONS.--If uniformly good results are desired in candy making, certain points that determine the success or failure of many candies, although seemingly unimportant, must be observed. Among these, weather conditions form such a large factor that they cannot be disregarded. A cool, clear day, when the atmosphere is fairly dry, is the ideal time for the making of all kinds of candies. Warm weather is not favorable, because the candy does not cool rapidly enough after being cooked. Damp weather is very bad for the making of such candies as the creamy ones that are made with egg white and that are desired to be as soft as possible and still in condition to handle. In view of these facts, candy should be made preferably on days when the weather is favorable if the element of uncertainty, so far as results are concerned, would be eliminated.

54. COMBINING THE SUGAR AND LIQUID.--The proportion of liquid and sugar to use in making candy varies to some extent with the kind of ingredients used and with the quantity of candy being made. In the making of quantities up to several pounds, the usual proportion is _one-third as much liquid as sugar_, but with larger amounts of sugar the quantity of liquid may be slightly decreased.

With the quantities decided on, mix the sugar and liquid and put them over the fire to boil. Stir at first to prevent the sugar from settling and burning, continuing the stirring either constantly or at intervals until the boiling begins. At this point, discontinue the stirring if possible. Mixtures that do not contain milk usually require no further stirring, and many times stirring is unnecessary even in those which do contain milk; but whenever any stirring is required, as little as possible should be done. The rule that applies in this connection is that the sugar should be entirely dissolved before the boiling begins and that all unnecessary agitation should then cease.

55. BOILING THE MIXTURE.--When the mixture begins to boil, wash down the sides of the kettle with a small cloth wet with clean water. This treatment should not be omitted if especially nice candy is desired, for it removes all undissolved sugar and helps to prevent crystallization later. In case merely sugar and water make up the ingredients, a cover may be placed on the kettle; then the steam that is retained will keep any sirup that may splash on the sides from crystallizing. This cannot be done, however, with mixtures containing milk and butter, for they will in all probability boil over.

56. The boiling of candy should be carried on quickly, for slow boiling often proves a disadvantage. A sugar-and-water mixture may, of course, be boiled more rapidly than any other kind, because there is not the danger of its boiling over nor of burning before the water is evaporated that there is with a mixture containing material that may settle and burn. It should be remembered that candy does not begin to burn until the water has entirely evaporated.

57. The length of time candy should boil is also a matter to which attention should be given. This depends somewhat on the kind that is being made, but largely on the rapidity with which the boiling is carried on. Thus, to time the boiling of candy is the most uncertain way of determining when the boiling has continued long enough. The inaccuracy of measurement, the size and shape of the pan, and the rate of speed in boiling cause a variation in the time required. Consequently, it would be rather difficult for the same person to get identical conditions twice and much more difficult for two persons to produce the same results.

58. TESTING CANDY.--Since accurate results cannot be obtained by timing the boiling of candy, other tests must be found that will be reliable. As has already been stated, a thermometer is perhaps the most accurate means that can be adopted for this purpose. However, if one is not available, the testing of a small quantity of the hot mixture by cooling it in cold water will be found to be fairly accurate. Ice water is not necessary nor particularly desirable for this kind of testing. In fact, water just as it comes from the faucet is the best, as it is quickly obtained and its temperature will not vary greatly except in very hot or very cold weather. Of course, to make an extremely accurate test of this kind, it would be necessary always to have the water at the same temperature, a condition that can be determined only by testing the temperature, but such accuracy is not usually required.

If the thermometer is used, all that need be done is to insert it into the candy and allow it to remain there until the temperature is registered. In case it does not reach the right temperature the first time, keep the mixture boiling until it registers the temperature that is decided on as the correct one.

59. To test the mixture by the water method, allow it to boil almost long enough to be done, and then try it at close intervals when it is nearing the end of the boiling. Dip a little of the sirup into a spoon and drop it slowly into a cup containing a little water. Not much sirup is needed for the test, a few drops being sufficient. Gather the drops together with the tips of the fingers and judge from the ball that forms whether the candy has boiled sufficiently or not. If the ball is not of the right consistency, boil the candy a little longer, and test again. Be sure, however, to get fresh water for each test. When the candy is nearing the final test, and it is thought that the mixture has boiled enough, remove the pan from the heat while the test is being made so that the boiling will not be continued too long.

60. To assist in making the tests for candy properly, Table I is given. This table shows both the water test and the corresponding temperature test for the representative variety of the leading classes of candies. In each one of these classes there are, of course, a number of varieties which may cause a slight variation in some of the tests, but on the whole these tests are uniform and can be relied on for practically all candies.

TABLE I

TESTS FOR REPRESENTATIVE CLASSES OF CANDY

Classes Water Test Temperature Test Degrees Fahrenheit Center Cream......Soft ball 234 to 236 Fudge.............Firm ball 238 to 240 Caramels..........Hard ball 246 to 248 Taffies..........Brittle ball 256 to 260

When candy is cooked long enough to form a _soft ball_, it can just be gathered together and held in the fingers. If it is held for any length of time, the warmth of the fingers softens it greatly and causes it to lose its form. This test is used for candies, such as soft-center cream. It will be found that when candy boiled to this degree is finished, it can scarcely be handled.

The _firm ball_ is the stage just following the soft ball. It will keep its shape when held in the fingers for some time. This is the test for fudge, bonbon creams, and similar candies that are creamed and are expected to be hard and dry enough to handle when they are finished.

To form a _hard ball_, candy must be cooked longer than for the firm ball. At this stage, the ball that is formed may be rolled in the finger tips. It is not so hard, however, that an impression cannot be made in it with the fingers. It is the test for caramels, soft butter scotch, sea foam, and many other candies.

A _brittle ball_ is the result of any temperature beyond 256 degrees up to the point where the sugar would begin to burn. It is hard enough to make a sound when struck against the side of the cup or to crack when an attempt is made to break it. This is the test that is made for taffy and other hard candies.

POURING AND COOLING THE MIXTURE

61. After the testing of the mixture proves that it is boiled sufficiently, there are several procedures that may be followed. The one to adopt depends on the kind of candy that is being made, but every candy that is cooked should be cooled by one of the following methods.

62. The first treatment consists in pouring the mixture at once from the pan to be finished without cooling, as, for instance, caramels and butter scotch, which are poured at once into a buttered pan to be cooled and cut; or, the hot sirup may be poured upon beaten egg whites, as in the case of sea foam or penuchie. In the making of either of these kinds, the sirup may be allowed to drip as completely as possible from the pan without injury to the finished product.

63. The second method by which the mixture is cooled calls for cooling the sirup in the pan in which it was cooked, as, for instance, in the case of fudge. When this is done, the pan should be carried from the stove to the place where the mixture is to be cooled with as little agitation as possible. Also, during the cooling, it should not be disturbed in any way. Stirring it even a little is apt to start crystallization and the candy will then be grainy instead of creamy.

64. In the third form of treatment, the sirup is poured out and then cooled before it is stirred to make it creamy, as in opera creams or bonbon creams. To accomplish this, the pan should be tipped quickly and all its contents turned out at once. It should not be allowed to drip even a few drops, for this dripping starts the crystallization. Candies that contain milk or butter, or sticky materials, such as taffies, should always be poured on a buttered surface. Those which are cooked with water but are to be creamed should be poured on a surface moistened with cold water.

65. When candy mixtures are cooled before being completed, the cooling should be carried to the point where no heat is felt when the candy is touched. To test it, the backs of the fingers should be laid lightly on the surface of the candy, as they will not be so likely to stick as the moist tips on the palm side. It should be remembered that the surface must not be disturbed in the testing, as this is also apt to bring about crystallization.

Every precaution should be taken to prevent even the smallest amount of crystallization. Any crystals that may have formed can be easily detected when the stirring is begun by the scraping that can be felt by the spoon or paddle used. If a little crystallization has taken place before the candy has cooled completely, it being easily seen in the clear sirup, the mixture should be cooled still further, for nothing is gained by stirring it at once.

A point that should always be kept in mind in the cooling of candy is that it should be cooled as quickly as possible. However, a refrigerator should not be used for cooling, for the warm mixture raises the temperature of the refrigerator and wastes the ice and at the same time the moist atmosphere does not bring about the best results. As has already been learned, a platter or a slab is very satisfactory. If either of these is used, it should be as cold as possible when the sirup is poured on it. Cold weather, of course, simplifies this matter greatly, but if no better way is afforded, the utensil used should be cooled with cold water.

FINISHING CANDIES

66. The treatment through which candy mixtures are put after being cooled varies with the kind of candy being made. Some mixtures, as fudge, are beaten until creamy in the pan in which they are cooked. Others are worked on a platter or a slab with the proper kind of utensil. These are usually treated in a rather elaborate way, being often coated with bonbon cream or with chocolate. Still others, such as taffy, are pulled until light in color and then cut into small pieces with a pair of scissors. Again, certain candies, after being poured into a pan, are allowed to become hard and then cut into squares or broken into pieces. Usually candies made in the home are served without being wrapped, but when certain varieties are to be packed, it is advisable to wrap them. Directions for finishing confections in these different ways are here given.

67. MARKING AND CUTTING CANDIES.--Much of the success of certain candies depends on their treatment after being cooled. Those which must be beaten in the pan until they are creamy should be beaten just as long as possible. Then, if the surface is not smooth when they are poured out, pat it out with the palm of the hand after the candy has hardened a little. As soon as it has hardened sufficiently to remain as it is marked and not run together, mark it in pieces of the desired size, using for this purpose a thin, sharp knife. Be careful to have the lines straight and the pieces even in size. Generally, candy that is treated in this manner is cut into squares, although it may be cut into other shapes if desired.

68. COATING CANDIES WITH BONBON CREAM.--When especially nice candy is desired for a special occasion, it is often made into small pieces and then coated with bonbon cream. A large number of the centers to be coated should be made up before the coating is begun. In fact, if it is possible, all the centers should be made first and then the coating can proceed without interruption. The cream to be used for coating may be flavored or colored in any desirable way. Any flavoring or coloring that is to be used, however, should be added while the cream is melting.

69. To coat with bonbon cream, put the cream in a double boiler without any water and allow it to melt with as little stirring as possible. It is best to use a small double boiler for this purpose and not to melt too much of the cream at one time, as it is apt to become grainy if it is used too long for dipping. When it has melted to the extent that the coating will not be too thick after it has cooled, the dipping of the candies may begin. As soon as it is found that no more centers can be dipped in the cream, melt some fresh cream for the remaining centers, but do not add it to that which has been used before. Instead, use the first up as closely as possible and then drop the remainder by spoonfuls on waxed paper. With all of it used, wash and dry the inner pan of the double boiler and start again with a fresh lot of the cream.

70. To coat the centers, drop one at a time into the melted cream and turn over with a coating fork or an ordinary table fork. When the surface is entirely covered, lift out of the cream with the fork and allow any superfluous coating to drip off. Then drop the coated bonbons on waxed paper, to cool. While this work may prove a little difficult at first, it can be done with dexterity after a little practice. If an effort is made to have the centers uniform in size and shape, the finished candies will have the same appearance. While the cream is soft, tiny pieces of candied fruit or nuts may be pressed into the coating to decorate the bonbons.

71. COATING WITH CHOCOLATE.--Candies coated with chocolate are always desirable; so it is well for any one who aspires toward confection making to become proficient in this phase of the work. The centers should, of course, be prepared first and put in a convenient place on the table where the coating is to be done. They may be made in any desired size and shape.

If it is possible to secure a regular coating chocolate, this should be obtained, for it produces better results than does a chocolate that can be prepared. However, unless one lives in a place where confectioner's supplies are on sale, it is almost impossible to purchase a chocolate of this kind. In such an event, a substitute that will prove very satisfactory for candy to be eaten in the home and not to be sold may be made as follows:

COATING CHOCOLATE

4 oz. milk chocolate 2 oz. bitter chocolate 1/2 oz. paraffin

To prepare the chocolate, put all the ingredients in a double boiler and allow them to melt, being careful that not a single drop of water nor other foreign substance falls into the mixture. Do not cover the boiler, for then the steam will condense on the inside of the cover and fall into the chocolate. As this will spoil the chocolate so that it cannot be used for coating, the pan in which the chocolate is melted should always be allowed to remain open. The paraffin used helps to harden the chocolate after it is put on the centers; this is a particular advantage at any time, but especially when chocolates are made in warm weather.

72. When the chocolate HAS COMPLETELY MELTED, dip some of it into a small bowl or other dish or utensil having a round bottom and keep the rest over the heat so that it will not harden. With a spoon, beat that which is put into the bowl until it is cool enough to permit the fingers being put into it. Then work it with the fingers until all the heat is out of it and it begins to thicken. It may be tested at this point by putting one of the centers into it. If it is found to be too thin, it will run off the candy and make large, flat edges on the bottom. In such an event, work it and cool it a little more. When it is of the proper thickness, put the centers in, one at a time, and, as shown in Fig. 2, cover them completely with the chocolate and place them on waxed paper or white oilcloth to harden. As they harden, it will be found that they will gradually grow dull. No attempt whatever should be made to pick up these candies until they are entirely cold. This process is sometimes considered objectionable because of the use of the bare hands, but chocolate coating cannot be so successfully done in any other way as with the fingers. Therefore, any aversion to this method should be overcome if good results are desired.

73. When the chocolate begins to harden in the bowl and consequently is difficult to work with, add more of the hot chocolate from the double boiler to it. It will be necessary, however, to beat the chocolate and work it with the fingers each time some is added, for otherwise the coating will not be desirable. So as to overcome the necessity of doing this often, a fairly large amount may be cooled and worked at one time. Care should be taken to cover each center completely or its quality will deteriorate upon standing. With conditions right, the centers of chocolates and bonbons should soften and improve for a short time after being made, but chocolate-coated candies will keep longer than bonbons, as the coating does not deteriorate.

74. WRAPPING CANDIES.--Such candies as caramels, certain kinds of taffies, and even chocolates are often wrapped in waxed paper, especially if they are to be packed in boxes. When this is to be done, cut the paper into pieces of the proper size and then wrap each piece separately. The best way to prepare the paper is to fold several sheets until they are the desired size and then, as in Fig. 3, cut them with a sharp knife. If a pair of scissors is used for this purpose, they are apt to slip and cut the paper crooked. The method of wrapping depends on the candy itself. Caramels are wrapped in square pieces whose ends are folded in neatly, as in Fig. 4, while taffy in the form of kisses is rolled in the paper and the ends are twisted to fasten the wrapping.

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VARIETIES OF CONFECTIONS AND THEIR PREPARATION

TAFFIES AND SIMILAR CANDIES

NATURE OF TAFFIES

75. TAFFY is probably one of the simplest candies that can be made. Indeed, if candy of this kind is boiled long enough, it is almost impossible to have unsatisfactory results. Taffies are usually made from white sugar, but a variety of flavors may be obtained by the use of different ingredients and flavors. For instance, molasses is used for some taffies, maple sirup for others, and brown sugar for others, and all of these offer an opportunity for variety. Then, again, taffy made from white sugar may be varied by means of many delightful colors and flavors. Melted chocolate or cocoa also makes a delightful chocolate-flavored taffy. Recipes for all of these varieties are here given, together with a number of recipes for closely related confections, such as butter scotch, glace nuts and fruits, peanut brittle, and nut bars.

76. METHODS OF TREATING TAFFY.--Taffy may be poured out in a pan, allowed to become entirely cold, and then broken into irregular pieces for serving, or it may be pulled and then cut in small pieces with a pair of scissors. If it is to be pulled, it should be poured from the pan in which it is cooked into flat pans or plates and set aside to cool. As soon as it is cool enough to handle, it may be taken from the pans and pulled. It will be found that the edges will cool and harden first. These should be pulled toward the center and folded so that they will warm against the center and form a new edge. If this is done two or three times during the cooling, the candy will cool evenly and be ready to take up into the hands. The pulling may then begin at once. If it has been cooked enough, it will not stick to the hands during the pulling. It is usually wise, however, to take the precaution of dusting the hands with corn starch before starting to pull the candy. Grease should never be used for this purpose. When taffy is made in quantities, the work of pulling it is greatly lessened by stretching it over a large hook fastened securely to a wall.

RECIPES FOR TAFFY

77. VANILLA TAFFY.--The taffy explained in the accompanying recipe is flavored with vanilla and when pulled is white in color. However, it may be made in different colors and flavors by merely substituting the desired flavor for the vanilla and using the coloring preferred. This recipe may also be used for chocolate taffy by adding melted chocolate just before the taffy has finished boiling.

VANILLA TAFFY

4 c. sugar 1/4 tsp. cream of tartar 1 Tb. vinegar 1 c. boiling water 2 Tb. butter 1 tsp. vanilla

To the sugar, add the cream of tartar, vinegar, and boiling water. Place over the fire and boil until it will form a brittle ball when tested in cold water or will register at least 260 degrees on a thermometer. Just before the boiling is completed, add the butter. Remove from the fire, add the vanilla, pour in a shallow layer in a buttered pan or plate. Cool and pull. When the taffy has been pulled until it is perfectly white and is hard enough to retain its shape, twist it into a long, thin rope and cut with a pair of scissors into inch lengths.

78. BUTTER TAFFY.--Another variety of taffy flavored with vanilla is the one given in the accompanying recipe. It is called butter taffy because butter is used in a rather large amount for flavoring. It will be noted, also, that brown sugar and corn sirup are two of the ingredients. These, with the butter, give the taffy a very delightful flavor.

BUTTER TAFFY

2 c. light-brown sugar 1 c. white sugar 1/2 c. corn sirup 1 Tb. vinegar 3/4 c. boiling water 1/4 butter 1 tsp. vanilla

Mix all the ingredients except the butter and vanilla. Place over the fire and boil until a brittle ball will form in cold water or a temperature of 260 degrees is reached. Just before the boiling has been completed, add the butter. Remove from the fire, add the vanilla, and pour in a thin layer into greased pans or plates. Cool, pull, and cut.

79. MOLASSES TAFFY.--Of all the taffies, that made with molasses is nearly always the favorite. A light cane molasses that is not very strong in flavor is the preferred kind for this candy. When cut into round flat pieces and wrapped in waxed paper, molasses taffy appeals to both old and young.

MOLASSES TAFFY

2 c. light cane molasses 1 c. sugar 2 Tb. vinegar 1/2 c. boiling water 2 Tb. butter

Mix all the ingredients except the butter. Cook until a brittle ball will form or a temperature of 264 degrees is reached on the thermometer. Add the butter just before the boiling is completed. Remove from the fire, pour into greased pans or plates, and allow it to become cool enough to handle. Then pull and cut.

80. CHEWING TAFFY.--A taffy that is hard enough not to be sticky and still soft enough to chew easily is often desired. Chewing taffy, which is explained in the accompanying recipe, is a candy of this kind. After being pulled, it may be cut as other taffy is cut or it may be piled in a mass and chopped into pieces.

CHEWING TAFFY

1/2 Tb. unflavored gelatine 2 c. sugar 1-1/2 c. corn sirup 1-1/4 c. milk 2 Tb. butter Vanilla and lemon

Put the gelatine to soak in a few tablespoonfuls of cold water. Cook the sugar, sirup, and milk until the mixture will form a hard ball that may be dented with the fingers or it reaches a temperature of 252 degrees. Stir the mixture gently to prevent burning. Remove from the fire and add the butter. Take the gelatine from the water, squeeze it as dry as possible, and add it to the hot mixture, stirring until it is entirely dissolved. Pour on a greased surface, cool, and pull until it is a light-cream color. While pulling, flavor with vanilla and a few drops of lemon. Stretch into a long thin rope and cut into inch lengths or pile in a mass and chop into pieces.

81. BUTTER SCOTCH.--Closely related to taffies so far as ingredients are concerned is candy known as butter scotch. This variety, however, is not pulled as are the taffies, but is allowed to become cool and then marked in squares which are broken apart when the candy is entirely cold.

BUTTER SCOTCH

2 c. white sugar 2 c. brown sugar 1/4 c. corn sirup 1 Tb. vinegar 1/4 tsp. cream of tartar 1/4 c. butter 1 tsp. lemon extract

Mix all the ingredients except the butter and the lemon extract. Boil until a hard ball will form or 256 degrees register on the thermometer. Just before the boiling is completed, add the butter, and when the mixture has been removed from the fire, add the lemon extract. Pour into a greased pan, and before it has entirely cooled, cut into squares with a knife. When cold and desired for serving, remove from the pan and break the squares apart. If desired, candy of this kind may be allowed to become entirely cold without cutting and then broken into irregular pieces just before being served.

82. MARSHMALLOWS COATED WITH BUTTER SCOTCH.--A delightful confection may be made by covering marshmallows with hot butter scotch. To accomplish this, drop the marshmallows with a coating fork or an ordinary table fork into hot butter scotch that has just finished cooking. Remove them quickly, but see that the marshmallows are entirely covered. Drop on a buttered pan or plate and set aside to cool.

83. GLACE NUTS AND FRUITS.--Nuts and fruits covered with a clear, hard candy are known as glace nuts and fruits. These are a very delightful confection, and can easily be made if the accompanying directions are carefully followed. Nuts of any variety may be used for this purpose, and such nuts as almonds need not be blanched. Candied cherries, candied pineapple, pressed figs, dates, and raisins are the fruits that are usually glaced. Confections of this kind should be eaten while fresh or kept in a closed receptacle in a dry place.

GLACE NUTS AND FRUITS

Fruits and nuts 2 c. granulated sugar 1/8 tsp. cream of tartar 3/4 c. water 1 tsp. vanilla

Prepare the nuts by shelling them and, if necessary, roasting them, and the fruits by cutting them into small strips or cubes. Mix the sugar and cream of tartar and add the water. Cook until it will form a very brittle ball in water, will spin hair-like threads when drops of it fall from the spoon, or registers 290 degrees on the thermometer. Remove from the fire and put in a convenient place for the dipping of the fruit and nuts. Drop these into the hot sirup, one at a time, with a coating fork or an ordinary table fork. When entirely covered with the sirup, remove and drop on greased plates or pans.

84. PEANUT BRITTLE.--Peanuts are often used in confection making and are very much liked by the majority of persons. They come in two general varieties, which may be roasted before use or used unroasted, and it is well for the housewife to understand the difference between them. One variety is the large, oblong peanut generally sold at peanut stands and used for the salted peanuts sold in confectionery stores. The other is the variety known as Spanish peanuts, which are small and round. For some candies, it is necessary that the peanuts be roasted and the skins removed, while for others unroasted peanuts with the skins on are desirable. To remove the skins from unroasted peanuts, they must be blanched by immersing them in boiling water until the skins will slip off easily, but in the case of roasted peanuts, the skins may be removed without blanching.

85. Peanut brittle is one of the candies in which peanuts are used. As its name implies, it is very thin and brittle and it usually contains a great many peanuts. Two recipes for candy of this kind are here given, one requiring peanuts that are roasted and blanched and the other, peanuts that are unroasted and not blanched.

PEANUT BRITTLE NO. 1

2 c. sugar 1/2 lb. shelled, roasted peanuts

Put the sugar in a saucepan without any water. Place it over a slow fire and allow it to melt gradually until a clear, reddish-brown liquid is formed, taking care not to allow it to burn. Have a pan greased and covered with a thick layer of a large variety of roasted peanuts. Pour the melted sugar over them and allow it to become hard. Then break into pieces and serve.

PEANUT BRITTLE NO. 2

3 c. sugar 1 c. corn sirup 1 c. water 1/4 c. butter 1 lb. raw Spanish peanuts 1 tsp. vanilla 1 Tb. soda

Mix the sugar, sirup, and water and place it over the fire. Boil until a hard ball will form or a temperature of 250 degrees is reached on the thermometer. Add the butter and the peanuts without removing their brown skins. Allow to cook, stirring all the time, until the mixture begins to turn a light brown and the skins of the peanuts pop open, showing that the peanuts are roasted. Remove from the fire, add the vanilla and the soda and stir rapidly. Then pour the mixture, which will become thick upon the addition of the soda, on a flat, greased surface. A slab is better for this purpose than anything else, but if this cannot be obtained a metal or other hard table top may be used. When the candy begins to get stiff, loosen it from the surface on which it was poured, cut it into two pieces, and turn each over; or, if it can be handled without cutting, turn the entire piece over. Then stretch the candy until it is just as thin as possible, beginning around the edge. As it becomes colder, stretch even thinner. When entirely cool, break into pieces and serve.

86. NUT BARS.--Another excellent nut candy can be made by pouring a sirup made of sugar, corn sirup, and water over a thick layer of nuts. Such fruits as dates and figs or coconut, or a combination of these, may be used with the nuts, if desired.

NUT BARS

2 c. sugar 3/4 c. corn sirup 1/4 c. water 1-1/2 c. shelled nuts

Put the sugar, sirup, and water over the fire and stir until it boils. Cover and cook until a hard ball will form or a temperature of 254 or 256 degrees is reached. Spread the nuts on a buttered slab or pan, and to them add fruit or coconut if it is desired to use either of these. Pour the hot sirup over this until it is about 1 inch in thickness. When sufficiently cool, cut in pieces of any desirable size, using a quick, sliding motion of the knife and pressing down at the same time. Break into pieces when entirely cold and serve.

CARAMELS

87. NATURE OF CARAMELS.--Caramels are included among the popular candies, and they may be made in many varieties. To plain vanilla caramels, which are the simplest kind to make, may be added any desirable color or flavor at the time they are removed from the fire. To keep caramels from crystallizing after they are boiled, glucose in some form must be used, and the most convenient kind to secure is corn sirup. Then, too, caramels will cut more easily and will have less of a sticky consistency if a small piece of paraffin is boiled with the mixture. The addition of this material or any wax that is not a food is contrary to the pure-food laws, and such candy cannot be sold. However, paraffin is not harmful, but is merely a substance that is not digested, so that the small amount taken by eating candy in which it is used cannot possibly cause any injury.

88. In the making of caramels, it should be remembered that good results depend on boiling the mixture to just the right point. If they are not boiled enough, they will be too soft to retain their shape when cut, and if they are cooked too long, they will be brittle. Neither of these conditions is the proper consistency for caramels. To be right, they must be boiled until a temperature of 246 to 248 degrees is reached. However, chocolate caramels need not be boiled so long, as the chocolate helps to harden them.

89. PLAIN CARAMELS.--The accompanying recipe for plain caramels may be made just as it is given, or to it may be added any flavoring or coloring desired. A pink color and strawberry flavor are very often found in caramels and are considered to be a delicious combination. As will be noted, white sugar is called for, but if more of a caramel flavor is preferred, brown sugar may be used instead of white. Maple sugar may also be used in candy of this kind. Nuts, fruits, or coconut, or any mixture of these materials, improves plain caramels wonderfully. If they are used, they should be stirred into the mixture at the time it is removed from the fire.

PLAIN CARAMELS

3 c. milk 3 c. sugar 1-1/2 c. corn sirup

The milk used for making caramels should be as rich as possible; in fact, if cream can be used, the candy will be very much better. Add half of the milk to the sugar and sirup and put over the fire to cook. Allow this mixture to boil until a soft ball will form when dropped in water, stirring when necessary to prevent burning. Then gradually add the remaining milk without stopping the boiling if possible. Cook again until a temperature of 248 degrees will register on the thermometer or a fairly hard ball will form when tried in water. In the water test, the ball, when thoroughly cold, should have exactly the same consistency as the finished caramels. Toward the end of the boiling, it is necessary to stir the mixture almost constantly to prevent it from burning. When done, pour it out on a buttered slab or some other flat surface and allow it to become cool. Then cut the candy into squares from 3/4 to 1 inch in size, cutting with a sliding pressure, that is, bearing down and away from you at the same time.

If the caramels are to be packed or kept for any length of time, it is well to wrap them in waxed paper. Before attempting to use caramels, however, they should be allowed to stand overnight in a cool, dry place, but not in a refrigerator.

90. CHOCOLATE CARAMELS.--When chocolate caramels are made, the chocolate should be added just before the cooking is finished. The amount of chocolate to be used may be varied to suit the taste, but 2 squares are usually considered sufficient for the quantities given in the accompanying recipe.

CHOCOLATE CARAMELS

1 c. molasses or 1 c. maple sirup 1/2 c. corn sirup 2 c. sugar 1 pt. milk 2 Tb. butter 2 sq. chocolate Pinch of salt 1 tsp. vanilla

Cook the molasses or maple sirup, the corn sirup, and the sugar with 1 cupful of the milk until the mixture will form a soft ball in cold water. Then add the remainder of the milk and cook until the mixture is thick. Add the butter, chocolate, and salt, and cook until a hard ball will form in cold water or a temperature of 248 degrees is reached, stirring constantly to prevent burning. Add the vanilla, pour on a buttered surface, cool, cut, and serve.

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CREAM CANDIES

NATURES OF CREAM CANDIES

91. There are numerous varieties of cream candies, some of which must be made with great care while others may be made quickly and easily. For instance, fudge, penuchie, divinity, and sea foam are examples of cream candies that do not require long preparation, but these must generally be used up quickly, as they do not stay soft upon exposure to the air unless it is very moist. On the other hand, such cream candies as opera cream, fondant, center cream, and orientals require both care and time in their preparation. If these are properly looked after, they may be kept for some time. In fact, it is necessary that some of them stand for several days before they can be made into the numerous varieties to which they lend themselves.

The main point to consider in the preparation of all cream candies is that crystallization of the sugar, which is commonly called _graining_, must be prevented if a creamy mixture is to be the result. Candies of this kind are not palatable unless they are soft and creamy. However, no difficulty will be experienced in preparing delicious cream candies if the principles of candy making previously given are applied.

FUDGES AND RELATED CANDIES

92. FUDGE NO. 1.--Probably no other candy is so well known and so often made as fudge. Even persons little experienced in candy making have success with candy of this kind. Another advantage of fudge is that it can be made up quickly, very little time being required in its preparation. Several varieties of fudge may be made, the one given in the accompanying recipe being a chocolate fudge containing a small quantity of corn starch.

FUDGE No. 1

3 c. sugar 1-1/4 c. milk 2 Tb. butter Pinch of salt 2 sq. chocolate 1 Tb. corn starch 3 Tb. water 1 tsp. vanilla

Mix the sugar, milk, butter, and salt and boil until a very soft ball will form in water. Then add the chocolate and the corn starch, which has been moistened with the cold water. Boil to a temperature of 236 degrees or until a ball that will hold together well and may be handled is formed in cold water. Remove from the fire and allow the mixture to cool until there is practically no heat in it. Add the vanilla, beat until thick, pour into a buttered pan, cut into squares, and serve.

93. FUDGE NO. 2.--A fudge containing corn sirup is liked by many persons. It has a slightly different flavor from the other variety of fudge, but is just as creamy if the directions are carefully followed.

FUDGE No. 2

3/4 c. milk 2 c. sugar 1/4 c. corn sirup 2 Tb. butter Pinch of salt 2 sq. chocolate 1 tsp. vanilla

Cook the milk, sugar, corn sirup, butter, and salt until the mixture will form a very soft ball when tried in water. Add the chocolate and cook again until a soft ball that can be handled will form or the thermometer registers 236 degrees. Remove from the fire, cool without stirring until entirely cold, and then add the vanilla. Beat until creamy, pour into buttered pans, cut into squares, and serve.

94. TWO LAYER FUDGE.--A very attractive as well as delicious fudge can be had by making it in two layers, one white and one dark. The dark layer contains chocolate while the white one is the same mixture, with the exception of the chocolate. The layers may be arranged with either the white or the dark layer on top, as preferred.

TWO-LAYER FUDGE

4 c. sugar 1-1/2 c. milk 6 Tb. corn sirup 2 Tb. butter Pinch of salt 2 sq. chocolate 1 tsp. vanilla

Mix the sugar, milk, corn sirup, butter, and salt, and cook until a very soft ball will form. Transfer half of the mixture to another pan and add to it the chocolate, which has been melted. Boil each mixture until it tests 238 degrees with the thermometer or a soft ball that can be handled well will form in cold water. Upon removing it from the fire, add the vanilla, putting half into each mixture. Set aside to cool and when all the heat is gone, beat one of the mixtures until it becomes creamy and pour it into a buttered pan. Then beat the other one and pour it over the first. Cut into squares and serve.

95. BROWN-SUGAR FUDGE.--Fudge in which brown sugar is used for the largest part of the sweetening is explained in the accompanying recipe. Peanuts are added, but if desired nuts of any other kind may be used.

BROWN-SUGAR FUDGE

2 c. brown sugar 1 c. white sugar 1 c. milk 1 Tb. butter 1 tsp. vanilla 3/4 c. chopped peanuts

Mix the sugar, milk, and butter and boil until a soft ball will form in cold water or a temperature of 238 degrees is reached on the thermometer. Remove from the fire, add the vanilla, and cool until the heat is out of the mixture. Beat, and when the candy begins to grow creamy, add the chopped nuts. When sufficiently thick, pour into a buttered pan, cut, and serve.

96. MAPLE PENUCHIE.--Almost any kind of maple candy finds favor with the majority of persons, but maple penuchie is especially well liked. Nuts and coconut are used in it, and these improve the flavor very much.

MAPLE PENUCHIE

3 c. maple sirup 1/4 tsp. soda 1 c. milk Few grains of salt 1 tsp. vanilla 1/2 c. chopped nuts 1/2 c. shredded coconut

Into the maple sirup, stir the soda, and add the milk and salt. Place over the fire and boil until a soft ball that can be easily handled will form in cold water or a temperature of 238 degrees is reached on the thermometer. Remove from the fire, add the vanilla, and allow the mixture to become entirely cold. Beat, and when it begins to get thick, add the nuts and coconut. Continue beating until the candy grows stiff but can be poured out. Pour in a buttered pan, cut, and serve.

97. DIVINITY.--An excellent confection known as divinity can be made with very little difficulty if the accompanying recipe is carefully followed. Nuts and raisins are used in this confection, but if desired they may be omitted. As divinity is dropped from a spoon on oiled paper, care should be taken not to boil the mixture too long, or it will be necessary to work very rapidly in order to drop all of it before it becomes too dry.

DIVINITY

1/3 c. corn sirup 1/2 c. water 2 c. sugar 1 egg white 1 tsp. vanilla 1/4 c. nuts 1/4 c. raisins

Boil the sirup, water, and sugar together until a fairly hard ball will form in cold water or the mixture registers 240 degrees on the thermometer, which is a trifle harder than the fudge mixture. Beat the egg white until it is stiff but not dry. Over this pour the hot mixture a drop at a time until it can be added faster without cooking the egg white. Beat rapidly until all the sirup is added, stir in the vanilla, and when fairly stiff add the nuts and raisins. Continue beating until the mixture will stand alone, and then drop by spoonfuls on oiled paper or a buttered surface. When dry enough to handle, divinity may be served.

98. SEA FOAM.--Another candy in which a cooked sirup is poured over beaten egg white is known as sea foam. Candies of this kind should be served at once, for they are apt to become dry and hard if they are allowed to stand.

SEA FOAM

2 c. light-brown sugar 1/2 c. water Pinch of salt 1 egg white 1 tsp. vanilla

Boil the sugar, water, and salt until a fairly hard ball will form or the thermometer registers 240 degrees. Beat the egg white stiff, but not dry. Pour the hot sirup over the egg white, a drop at a time at first, and then as fast as possible without cooking the egg white. Add the vanilla and continue beating the mixture until it will stand alone. Drop by spoonfuls on a buttered surface or oiled paper. When sufficiently dry, remove from the surface and serve.

FONDANT AND RELATED CREAMS