Chapter II: Part 2

Strolled by Broadway, examined the two churches, also the City Hall. Attended one of the courts trying a ship insurance case; conducted like those in England excepting that there are no gowns or wigs. The Judge also in plain clothes but addressed as His Honour; the witnesses are sworn as with us, standing near the Judge and the Jury 13. Coming out of the Court it began to rain a little, afterwards a good deal of lightning with some thunder.

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 11TH.

Rose at six; found the air cooler and very refreshing. Walked down to the shore, saw the Philadelphia packet off. Immense quantity of wood put under the boiler. Bathed in the floating bath, not very tidy. Just in time for a most sumptuous breakfast. Sailed to Staten Island; had a most delightful walk to Factoryville; a pleasant breeze. Very large cherry trees. Found Ward in humble circumstances, a shoemaker; built a house costing 650 dollars, let the upper part for 100 dollars and occupied the base himself with a second wife, his former wife and child being dead.

Found Mr. Bassnett improving. Expect to see him again in Buffalo. Called upon T. D. and found 400 dollars in 5's, 10's with particulars as to their legal tender, etc., by Mr. Bliss. Then dined and afterwards called upon Robert Wood at Franklin Square; promised to see him on my return. Then proceeded to Dr. Griscome, 110 Henry St. but did not find him; mentioned that I purposed calling upon my return. Bought beautiful oranges at 1/2_d._, also a pine for 10_d._ Then called at the American Hotel, found Jackson who insisted on my taking a glass of wine with him. Mr. Webster and Captain Kenney both very civil. After tea, walked up and down Broadway; into two booksellers' shops where some books were sold very low. Paid my bill and got everything nicely packed up, managed to put all into my portmanteau excepting two coats which I put into the bag.

THURSDAY, JUNE 12TH.

Got up a little before six, a fine morning. Left in the People's line of Packet at seven. Paid for breakfast ticket 50 cents, also to Princeton 150 cents. Most of the houses on Staten Island are built by fishermen who take large quantities of oysters. The grass is cut and placed upon stakes to prevent it being washed or blown away, as it cannot be carted away till frost comes.

Met with a gentleman, Lieutenant Higby, on the steamer returning from Charleston who showed me great attention, also presented me with a stick of orange wood. On leaving the steamer the road was so steep that but for an elderly lady who seemed so composed I should have been frightened. On the road, a field or two was cleared, the rest was forest, till on reaching Princeton the farms appeared larger. Here I engaged a gig for 150 cents. Curious sound occasioned by locusts, 17 years since their last visit. Saw a beautiful white cottage which proved to be the residence of our friend W. B.; found all well. W. was quite astonished to see me and threw his head upon my shoulders. Mrs. B. greatly surprised, also Jonathan whom we found in the fields. On going to the door I saw the driver had tumbled down the bag and portmanteau, and set off without asking for anything for himself or the turnpike gate. Walked about in the garden, then took some coffee and lettuce. Walked round the farm about 150 acres which cost him about 7 guineas an acre. The soil good and well cultivated with rye, oats, maize, and bounded on one side by a good road leading to Trenton, and the remainder by a beautiful stream; also good spring water in most of the fields. The estate is beautifully varied by gentle elevations; never troubled by mosquitoes; most of the snakes have been destroyed. They have five horses, 7 cows, 30 pigs, 100 poultry besides pigeons, etc. Very glad to find the B.'s so comfortably settled and steadily applying themselves to the improvement of the farm; very careful, exceedingly diligent, rising at four and working till eight, doing all the carpenter's work, butchering, etc. Stopt up till after eleven talking over old matters, etc.

FRIDAY, JUNE 13TH.

Slept very well till just before six. Found all busy and breakfast set out, ham, eggs and coffee. Could not get away till I promised to visit them again on my return to N.Y. Driven to Trenton. At twelve I took the steamer down the Delaware to Philadelphia. Several floats of timber on the river, 36 yards long, 6 broad and 6 planks deep. A pleasant sail and view of Philadelphia. Paid 25 cents to one of the Rail line porters. Found Head's Hotel, Mansion House, rather less expensive than Bunker's. After dinner set off with C. D.'s parcel to Ridings in 13 St. a long way. Rain came on, I borrowed an umbrella from an entire stranger, who waited until my return and then accompanied me to Mr. Hulme's. Mr. H. not in, and agreed to call at nine to-morrow morning. Very good coffee that refreshed me. Went to the theatre, spacious and handsome, with gilt pillars. Not one in the pit when I entered. The performers tolerable; the pit seats rise very much. Though twelve o'clock I found the table set out at the hotel, got a little ham and went to bed. The streets all in right lines, but many of the houses of irregular height. A great deal of marble used in the cellar steps of inferior houses. At dinner had only some boiled mutton and peas which I found very good, also a little tart and some strawberries. I think of declining to take wine and I am advised to try cyder, but find it not good, physicy. Took coffee instead of tea, and found it excellent. Two blacks employed in driving away the flies that are getting numerous. A mocking bird that sings most of the night.

SATURDAY, JUNE 14TH.

Rose half past six. A delightful morning after the rain. Had a walk down street before breakfast.

The horses are protected from flies by netting or thongs. Called upon Mr. Hulme and met with a very gracious reception. After showing me through the lower part of the house and the curious filtering machine, also the mode of getting the water cool, he walked with me to the Mint, where I saw the bar of silver gradually lengthened out, then punched and then put into a machine to letter the edge, then placed under the die and then very quickly ejected in a complete coin. Also a curious process of extracting gold from silver; it only appeared like a dirty sort of revolving vessel, much like a milk basin and the man said its value exceeded 6000 dollars. Thence we went to a saw mill, with machines that planed and grooved the boards leaving them quite ready for laying down. Thence to the water works where the river Schuylkill forces up its own water (rather reddish) into three large reservoirs. Then descended, found five large water wheels at work and preparations for two others. We came back in a stage coach and were charged only 25 cents for both. Went to enquire about the Frankford stage which leaves at nine. Went into a large Quakers' meeting house--both Pilling and John Wood in town, but could not manage to meet them. Visited the Exchange, a handsome edifice built of white marble. Another balloon in the sky.

Walked towards the shipping, found much wood used though there is much coal of a kind very black and shining like pitch, and giving out heat without blaze. The evening was truly beautiful, the sky so clear that the stars seemed nearer and the moon as if it imparted heat as well as light.

SUNDAY, JUNE 15TH.

Got up a little after seven. Breakfast at half past eight; the best bread and butter in the world; good fish and eggs. Two blacks driving away the flies. All rooms gloomy, the verandahs or shutters closed to keep out the heat. Called upon Mr. Hulme and walked with him and two Miss Hulmes. A beautiful chapel of white marble with a fine range of steps and columns, the inside equally neat, the pulpit in a recess, a column on each side and an inscription over "This is life eternal." Mr. Furness preached an excellent sermon "Examine Thyself." The singing chiefly by the choir with a good organ. After service walked with Mr. H. to a neat though rather small cemetery. Afterwards called on an interesting old Scotch bachelor who came to dine with us. We spent a pleasant afternoon, went on the railroad to see the inclined plane where an accident had recently happened; walked over a very large wooden bridge covered over and supported upon stone pillars. An interesting discussion respecting Jackson, etc. Took tea and attended the evening service; the text "What is the Almighty that we should serve Him?"

MONDAY, JUNE 16TH.

Some rain had fallen in the night that made it very pleasant. Went to see about the Frankford stage, told it would be at half past eight at the Exchange. Looked over some English papers. After waiting some time found the Frankford stage left at 2nd street above High St. Found it did not go till ten. Amused myself at the wharf watching some fishermen, some of them very successful. Coming back I saw turtles some laid on their back to keep them from running away; the snapping turtle very savage, if once it lays hold, nothing but the knife can part it.

Took the stage at ten, arrived (at Frankford) half past eleven. Went to Pilling's Works but could not find Mr. P. or learn anything about my uncle. Went to other works and set off a mile further to a cotton mill, but could not find it nor enquire of anyone. A great noise from the locusts that are still said to come only once in 17 years. Killed two to present to C. D. and Mr. B.

Returned and enquired at several stores but could hear nothing of him. Then set off to see Mr. P. and on the way found his brother who keeps a store. On asking him he seemed to hesitate and went into the house to make further enquiry. He then told me that his uncle had been working at his brother's mill at Hulmesburgh; that he died about three weeks ago having scalded his leg, almost insensible towards the last. This Pilling it appears married a daughter of Abraham Walch. I knew him at first sight. They immediately set the table out and urged me to stop a day or two with them. On my declining he put on another coat and accompanied me on the way, when he disclosed to me the melancholy news of his uncle having cut his throat, then denying it and saying somebody else had done it.

TUESDAY, JUNE 17TH.

Asked for coffee a little earlier, promised in ten minutes; in less than five, fish (bass) and eggs, etc., ready. Walked up to the stage office and set off at eight; found it carrying the letters. Got to Hulmesburgh 1/4 before ten, paid only 25 cents for ten miles. Walked to the works immediately, found Pilling's brother, learned the following particulars. That uncle had come from New England booking at a Croft, 18th Decr., that since he had worked very regularly not missing a day in 6 or 12 months, spent his money in drink at his lodgings, hardly ever at a public house; much respected and particularly so by P., had grown corpulent, scalded 16th Jan. and only able to work about two days since, was occupied in the dye-house and earned 67 dollars per week, half past four to half past six being a quarter of a day over. Had appeared rather depressed of late and wished to go home, still more so when he heard of my father's death. A subscription was begun among his men to pay his passage as soon as he was fit to go; this seemed to overcome him as his memory had been failing at times. On the 14th May he eat a hearty dinner, smoked his pipe, went upstairs as if to lie down for half an hour. Came out and entered the carpenter's shop, shut the door after him and immediately came out with his throat cut; was told of it by two women who happened to be going by. He denied it and walked towards the pump, a doctor was sent for but no help could be afforded and he died in less than an hour; he seemed to repent of it. I walked to the grave, attended by one of the jurors; he said every respect had been shown by a numerous attendance of his fellow-workmen--had a good coffin.

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 18TH.

About one o'clock I heard a rumbling noise, immediately a flash of lightning; this increased so much that though the shutters were closed, and I covered in bed, I could see a blaze of light which continued some time, then louder thunder, so horrible as to throw me into a perspiration, after some time it abated a little, then returned with redoubled fury with heavy rain and I think hail for nearly an hour; it was truly terrific and I was glad to learn that I had seen nearly the worst. This was admitted by Mr. W. and also the driver of the stage who did not think he had seen it worse excepting once. Mr. Walker sent over to Hulmesburgh for one of his carriages, called with my letter to Mr. Taylor, but did not meet him; then went to Mr. Hulme, agreed to go out together at half past three. On returning to the Hotel, met Mr. Jackson and also Captain Kenney; took a piece of beef and a glass of champagne with my old companions. Hastened to Mr. Hulme's; found him and three daughters waiting for me in a carriage, drove to the Penitentiary where vicious youths are endeavoured to be reclaimed by useful occupation, such as nails for sofas, cane-bottomed chairs and book-binding. Thence we visited the State prison; the cells constructed in the octagon form; all seen from the centre; a small yard attached to each to walk in for one hour a day; a sentinel placed serving the whole. Then we went to the Alms or Workhouse which is on a magnificent scale; thence to the Hospital, passed over two large bridges. Returned and took tea and spent the evening at Mr. Hulme's.

THURSDAY, JUNE 19TH.

Mr. Jackson at breakfast with an old acquaintance from Sicily. Whilst he fetched me the card, I took the opportunity of desiring the old school companion to urge upon his friend more temperance. The streets cleaned by a spray current from a large leathern pipe carried along. Set off at nine for Skoolkill (Schuylkill) to visit John Wood, but found him gone from home to a farm about three miles further to which they were removing in a day or two; only saw his son about 16 years old; enquired about his sister who was very well. Proceeded on to Maryark filled with mills worked by water from the canal; was a desert only 16 years ago. Called upon my return but only saw the same youth. On my way observed the college[11] building by Girard's money and on getting into the city entered two of the splendid banks, also the Mayor's Court, and heard two trials, one horse-stealing and the other a lad for stealing a biscuit-cutter; both found guilty, the latter recommended to mercy on account of ill-treatment by his mother. The Judge, Mr. Keen, very clever. Thence to the Museum to look at the Mammoth, a good collection of animals, birds, etc., also some good portraits of distinguished people, amongst them Priestley and Paine. Called upon Mr. James Taylor, invited to tea as I was going so soon and intended being with Dr. Furness on Sunday. Thence to the great ship 74 by 20 yards and 20 yards high. Called again upon Ridings, also James Mason and then to Mr. Taylor's and finished at the Hulmes's--12 o'clock.

FRIDAY, JUNE 20TH.

Slept very soundly, called up exactly at 5, the steamer sailed soon after six. A vast crowd of people some to N.Y. and others to Baltimore. Took breakfast soon after seven, the steamer 50 by 19 yards. Met with Richard Crook. A very extraordinary dust over the city of Baltimore; a very great wind soon came to the steamer so that it was hardly possible to stand upon deck.

After dinner called upon a young man at Hofman's who kindly walked with me through the city. Greatly disappointed with the Cathedral, only a very plain edifice with two good pictures; charged 1/4 dollar, by a zealous old Catholic who seemed shocked by the heresy of an old man who wished to go behind the altar. Then we walked to a beautiful fine column of white marble, surmounted by a large figure of Washington. Came to the Court House, better than that at Philadelphia; thence to the Exchange. From the column we had a very delightful view of the country all round. Wrote to Thos. Dean, desiring a letter or newspaper to be forwarded to Washington and again to Quebeck after two or three weeks; mentioned writing home from Washington and Boston.

Bought a large pike for 18 cents. Visited the Museum, also had music and singing and a good imitation of singing birds. Went to bed soon after ten; the bread at Baltimore very good. The horses' tails not cut in this country, being so useful in driving away the flies.

SATURDAY, JUNE 21ST.

Had a very restless night, not expecting to go to sleep and then heated and feverish, got up soon after five. This hotel six storeys high, a square of nine windows besides outbuildings, above 170 bedrooms, ours No. 76. Called with Miss Crosdale's letter to Mr. Grundy. This hotel more extensive than any. The road to Washington very hilly. Buzzards, a species of eagle soaring high in the air. Some disturbance by Indians, muskets placed in threes and fours. The soldiers and officers in curious working dress, the land generally very poor. Two other buzzards hovering over some carrion that they could smell. Arrived at Washington at two o'clock; passed the Capitol which is a splendid building. After dinner a very heavy close shower of rain with thunder; cleared up soon and the evening proved delightful. Called upon Francis Taylor who keeps an extensive book store and has also a circulating library. He seems a little, shrewd intelligent young man about 22, has been nearly seven years from home. Speaking of this country he said how a man may get on to a certainty if he exerts himself, more a matter of chance in the old country. Gadsby's Hotel very large but not so neat as Bunker's, or Head's, particularly the former; the provisions not nearly so good. Learned there were upwards of 250 rooms, our key being 102. Not feeling very well, partly occasioned by too much exertion in Philadelphia.

SUNDAY, JUNE 22ND.

Passed a very good night, not seeing the lightning which R. Crook said had been very vivid.

Francis Taylor called upon us and walked with us to the Capitol, a beautiful pile of buildings though defaced by painting. Heard a sermon Matthew vi and verse 2, in the House of Representatives, a beautiful place something like the _nisi prius_ Court at Lancaster. Each member has his own chair with a small desk before him; this space keeps enlarging from the centre where the Speaker is placed; a large gallery behind open to the public, that on the other side for ladies.

Commenced writing a letter, being too warm to walk and there being no particular object. In the course of the afternoon the clouds began to gather, soon after six there were flashes of lightning, which continually increased with thunder, wind and rain truly astonishing. Set off alone to the Unitarian Church, R. C.[12] nothing minding, and in fact the streams would not have suited his morocco boots. Just able to get along between every flash, found no service in consequence of the storm; managed to get safe back, and afterwards engaged in witnessing the sublime spectacle which continued till after nine; very fortunate that it came on so early as our sleep was not disturbed, but made pleasanter by the coolness of the atmosphere. The staircases to the galleries of Congress and many places covered with tobacco spitting.

MONDAY, JUNE 23RD.

Passed a comfortable night, walked out before breakfast and had a pleasant chat with F. T. During breakfast two or three boys driving away the flies by means of large ostrich feathers. Find that it is not common to sell slaves by public auction. F. T. said it was believed that if made free next winter, one third would die for want; but on mentioning St. Domingo he could make no reply, he said they were a different race of men. At ten we were taken in a coach by Mr. White, M.P. for New York, to see the President[13]; waited a short time in an ante-room with others, then were ushered into a large room furnished with books and papers. A tall, straight, old, thin-faced man with grey hair rose, and on my name being mentioned he bowed and shook hands. After a little conversation about losing his teeth by attempting artificial ones, which had dragged the remainder out until only his wise teeth remained, we left him, bowing and shaking hands again. Walked into parts of the house or palace; saw a very noble room where about 1500 attend five or six times a year. Rode in the same carriage to the Capitol; and were shown into the Hall of Representatives; a great many members present but not easily heard in consequence of the muttering in the House. Thence walked through the Dome containing several pictures, the _Declaration of Independence_, _Surrender of Burgoyne and Cornwallis_, and _Washington giving up his Commission_. Thence went to the Senate; was introduced to Mr. Clay who could not tell me respecting R. Monks, as the cholera had made terrible ravages last year at Lexington.

TUESDAY, JUNE 24TH.

Got up 1/4 before 5. Left Washington at 1/4 before 6. Arrived at Alexandria at 7; ran into the Museum till breakfast. The bridge across the Potomack more than a mile long. Got to Mount Vernon at eleven. Very well received by means of a letter brought by R. C. from a Miss Adams of Philadelphia. Shown through the house, saw the key of the Bastille presented to Washington by T. Paine, also the Library as left by W. Then visited the Tomb, a very plain brick front with an iron door more like an oven. Walked through the garden back to the house; partook of some cake and wine.

Some parts of the road very rough; lost our track for some time; very few people, only now and then a negro to ask. Got back just in time to dinner and escaped the rain and thunder being the 4th successive night. Learned that something interesting was going on at the Capitol, as several members were hastening to it. Found the Senate closed against the public. The Representatives' Hall very full and some interesting debates, particularly the notice respecting Lafayette's death, and also remuneration to the families of the French sufferers at Toulon.

R. C. is considered very fond of show--prefers very tight boots, yet has four or five corns on each foot. Thinks we could not do without wigs and gowns in our English Courts of Justice. Wrote to C. D. by R. Crook who will put it into the office at N.Y. Paid for the gig to Mount Vernon, 4 dollars, though the usual charge for a day is only 3. Mentioned writing home to Mr. B. from Boston. R. C. mentioned his uncle Tipping[14] getting £5000 and not spending £500.

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 25TH.

Got up at six and walked to F. Taylor's; after breakfast enquired for a letter at the bar, then at the post office but was disappointed. Visited the Patent Office, endless variety of models of all kinds. Then to Pishey Thompson[15] who kindly offered to go with me and also invited me to tea and to bring F. T.

Went with F. T. to the Army Office, and saw a great many likenesses of Indian Chiefs; then to the Naval Office; saw the bags containing conquered flags, and also models of ships. Thence we visited the room containing the original Declaration of American Independence; also several treaties containing the seals and signatures of George 3rd and Bonaparte, Louis Philippe, Bernadotte, etc., etc., and what was still more extraordinary, a drawer containing many gold and silver medals, with a most valuable gold snuff box studded with diamonds presented by the Emperor Alexander[16], valued at £1000; all these things were left open entirely to us, without any other person in the room; this I consider very wrong as leading into temptation and I predict they will soon have some plunderer, either Yankee or foreigner; on going away we expressed our surprise at the want of discretion; they said they had only missed one small gold coin. Thence I drove to the Capitol, visited both Chambers and also the Library which is beautiful and well-furnished. I saw Cobbett's works. On coming to dinner I met my old Scotch friend Rowlandson with a countryman coming out to purchase land. Went again to Congress; heard some animated debates concerning the Indian States. Spent the last evening very pleasantly at Mr. Thompson's where I had the pleasure to meet the Unitarian Minister, Mr. Paulfrey I think, also young Taylor, Mr. Rowlandson and his friend.

THURSDAY, JUNE 26TH.

Found another person in R. C.'s bed which made a little more precaution necessary. Rose half past four, a very pleasant morning. Tasted the second piece of pineapple last night; very cheap, not more than 8 or 10 cents.

Taken to the boat in an omnibus an hour too soon, this a pretty general practice. Sailed 1/4 past seven, observed some boats not more than one yard across and about 5 yds. long like small canoes. Saw two turtles opposite to Washington Fort; they dived instantly; saw a good deal of grass on the Potomack, which is supposed to be carried off the land by the hurricanes. Thunder and lightning every evening but the last whilst at Washington. Dined at Fredricksburgh; paid 50 cents, and 5 dollars to Charlottesville, the road so far splendid, through woody country. Two intelligent persons in the stage, one addicted to chewing much tobacco and spitting; the matter was argued. Saw the first snake lying dead on the road side, about one yard long. The worm fence generally used. The trees generally ringed, an easy way of clearing the wood. The roads paved in some places by logs of wood thrown across. Stopped at Chestnut Hill for supper nearly half past eleven; had coffee, chickens, honey, and was charged 50 cents; on being complained of they said great uncertainty as to number; had to provide for 10 or 12 and sometimes only two or three came. The driver did not whip much, but spoke to his horses kindly, as Punch, Sammy, Phoebe, etc.

Got to Orange Court 1/4 past one, told we should be called at three; objected to a double-bedded room, afterwards shown another to myself, found the charge only 25 cents. The greater part of the negroes are slaves; one 40 years of age, worth 400 or 450 dollars; not allowed to remain here when freed; frequently bought by dealers who chain them together; the worst are generally disposed of first.

FRIDAY, JUNE 27TH.

Rested very well; rose at half past three and set off at four; the road worse than any existing coal pit road I ever saw in England, full of ruts with stony rocks and stumps of wood projecting. Arrival at Gordonville to breakfast at six; paid 50 cents which I could not grudge as the coffee was very good. The road generally better, but in one or two places worse than ever I had seen before; many pigs and long-nosed boars with bristles like porcupines, active in discovering snakes; a black snake 2 feet long killed by the coachman's whip; a little farther on a large lizard; a young hare and two partridges; beautiful trees rising very high on both banks; several saw-mills; the planks covering the bridges are loose and some of them slender. Got to Charlottesville at ten; part of the way very sleepy, so that there is danger of falling especially when jolting.

Dined at Brookville, the first Blue Ridge Mountain, good plain dinner with excellent milk and honey. Walked up the mountain, saw great quantities of whinberries; a delightful stream of water near the summit.

Arrived at Staunton at seven, very sleepy the last stage; sometimes the driver and I asleep at the same time, and the road very hilly, quite wonderful that I should have arrived safe. Many of the houses here are built as in Switzerland; trees are just squared and notched, or dove-tailed at the ends; sometimes the interstices are filled with clay or mortar. The wild vine climbs to the top of the highest trees.

SATURDAY, JUNE 28TH.

Rose at four having slept very soundly, a natural consequence of only two hours the night before and riding outside all day. Disappointed about getting a seat with the driver, which was occupied by a coloured man whom they would not permit to go inside. Found the passengers truly American, asking many questions and lauding the country. Passed through a forest chiefly of oak. A branch of walnut brushed across the coach and left a perfume behind. Paid for supper and bed 75 cents. Arrived 1/4 past seven A.M. Paid for breakfast 50 cents, the usual price in this town because not much frequented except at certain seasons to the spring. Breakfasted at Jenning's Gap. Just before ascending a steep part of the mountain I got out to walk but it began to rain and I had to resume my seat. The streams of mud through which we dashed were quite astounding. On descending we found no rain. Dined at Charrodale on venison taken in the mountains, 50 cents. One of our travellers, a German who plays on the guitar and the pianoforte, along with three others; he sang the "Swiss Boy" to us.

I here mounted the roof of the coach as the blacks were not permitted to enter it; before we got to the foot of the mountain there came on a terrible storm of thunder and lightning with tremendous rain. It cleared up and we had a beautiful drive over the mountain before descending to the warm springs. We descended safely, if the drag chain had snapt we should have been thrown down the precipice. Got to Warm Springs at seven; took coffee. Then took the bath which seemed very hot, though only called the Warm Springs, 96 degrees. Felt very warm in bed though not disagreeably so. Most of the trees are oak and pine.

SUNDAY, JUNE 29TH.

Slept soundly after the bath so that I did not hear the thunder. The bedroom I hope the smallest I shall meet with; got up at half past four but not able to shave; obliged to sleep in my shirt, as the night-shirt was made wet by crushing a pineapple into the bag. On the road I stept down to feel the Hot Spring which was hot indeed, I did not learn the degrees. Breakfasted at Maurice Hill. Drove over mountains chiefly covered with oaks and pines; the chief danger in crossing these mountains is the snapping of the drag chain. Dined nearly one mile from Sulphur Springs; a good deal of company; ran down to the spring, the water a sulphur taste. Took leave of fellow passengers consisting of an elderly lady and her daughter of the name of Parker of Philadelphia, a family from Baltimore; a gentleman about sixty with his wife and two daughters, one not more than seven years, and a middle-aged lady born in London. We had spent two or three days very pleasantly and parted reluctantly. I received an invitation to their house. Set off to Lewisburgh and arrived a little before six; a little thriving place. The hill before descending to the White Sulphur Spring I find is the back-bone, as the streams flow each way; eastward into the Atlantic, and westward into the Mississippi. For some time past the negroes have been so numerous that whites have appeared rather strange. Some of the trees that are hollow are fired to drive out the squirrels, and others have been fired by lightning and others split by the same means. A double-bedded room.

MONDAY, JUNE 30TH.

Rose at half past three. Found my companion to be a member of Congress. There were two others in the stage, also a pleasing lady, wife to one of the members, also a young man, H. C. Hart, a midshipman, who was returning from a sail round the world, also a lively Frenchman. Breakfasted at Kamley. Dined at Deak.

The road as usual very hilly, covered with oak, pines, etc., also a curious honeysuckle and rhododendrons; the Hawk's Nest a jutting rock, 1100 feet high and a magnificent view of the river which does not appear 20 yards wide and is more than 200. Also the hills covered with trees, those below looking mere shrubs.

As we came near the Falls of Kanawha the bridge had been washed down, therefore we were ferried over; the road for some time carried alongside the rocks overhanging the river. Arrived 1/4 before ten at Kanawha, got supper and to bed at 1/4 past ten, to be called up at half past three. Eight beds in a large room; the window wide open, but I selected one of the beds the farthest off and secured my trousers under my pillow. The names of the two M.P.'s were Mr. Doon and Marshall McLatcher. Here I had the first introduction to mosquitoes, but they behaved rather mercifully, or perhaps my blood was not to their taste.

TUESDAY, JULY 1ST.

Rose half past three; dressed without a glass. On the road observed two little bears chained; they are fed one or two years and then eaten; these were about two months old. Also saw a quantity of pigs. A beautiful drive along the Kanawha. Indians farm on this side; mountains of fine timber on the other. Breakfasted 16 miles from the Falls, on good coffee and honey. Plenty of bucks' horns hung in the yard. Another young bear chained in a yard to be fed and eaten. 65,000 pigs driven last year through one turnpike gate. Large salt-works, the brine is pumped up and evaporated. Good coals are drawn out of the mountains on both sides of the valley, fine springs of gas escaping out of the surface which ignited on applying a live coal. The negroes said it would continue burning a week or two unless put out by rain.

Waited at Charleston nearly an hour and then found the coach filled with passengers, my seat particularly hot and disagreeable, so that I got outside; the driver refused to have more than one with him. I insisted on the seat, at length the other person went upon the roof, and I had a pleasant ride through hilly country covered with forest trees. On descending the hills one of the horses ran the coach wheel a little on the bank, so as nearly to throw it down the precipice. Again we forded the river in consequence of the bridge being washed away. Arrived at Guyandotte on the Ohio at half past eleven, got some coffee and entered the mail steamboat, where I slept pretty well notwithstanding the lightning and the shaking of the vessel.

WEDNESDAY, JULY 2ND.

Rose half past five at the sound of a bell so that the beds could be adjusted before breakfast; shaved and washed my mouth in iced water. Walked on shore to Portsmouth; saw a basket of offal beef thrown into the river; a warm morning, the ice on the butter steaming, 17 dishes of hot meat besides vegetables for the people. Paid to Maysville including breakfast and bed 3 dollars. Very much pleased with the cabin boy singing about "Father fighting for him and liberty," "Tennessee and liberty."

Arrived at Maysville at half past one.

Took a julep consisting of 1-1/2 glass of wine with plenty of sugar and ice, also several herbs, mint, etc., mingled together, making a richly flavoured beverage. Took some dinner but found nothing good but some cucumber and onion. Paid fare to Lexington, 4 dollars. Passed yesterday a chapel made of squared pines dove-tailed together. At sunset I and Mr. Hart the young midshipman, went and bathed in the Ohio, most delightfully warm and the current very strong. The river rose last winter but one, 63 feet.

Maysville, a very pretty place to stop a day or two. The beach is high and consequently has a fine view of the steam boats, which are often passing up and down this noble river.

THURSDAY, JULY 3RD.

Rose soon after six as the stage to proceed in does not come in till eight. Slept pretty well till about twelve, when a negro came to put down the window as he said a storm was coming; presently I heard thunder which became louder and was followed by heavy rain. At the hotel here, three fans were made to move overhead to cool and drive away the flies. It was pulled by a nice black girl. Paid for dinner, supper, bed and breakfast one dollar. The ferryboat moved across by means of six horses revolving round. No cyder to be had here, everyone drinking spirits or ale, the julep is called a hailstorm. Passed over some of the best and worst roads in the U.S. some limestone, and macadam and limestone. Came to the blue or sulphur springs resembling Harrogate; took some lemon juice in the water. Arrived at Hillsburgh at half past seven, having had nothing to eat since breakfast at seven. At Paris I parted with Mr. and Mrs. Marshall, and Mr. Hart the young midshipman, with considerable regret. Mr. M. had to explain on the way to his constituents. Mr. McLatcher continued with me to Lexington where we arrived at ten o'clock. After getting some coffee I hastened to bed, found three beds in the room, only one occupied. On the way yesterday we found a good deal of hemp grown, and much of it manufactured into bagging, etc. The land rolling or undulated is generally well cultivated.

FRIDAY, JULY 4TH.

Rose soon after six in expectation of finding out my old friend R. M.; rather disappointed to find from the innkeeper who is an Irishman, that the Monks were dispersed, only one remaining in the neighbourhood. He offered to walk with me to make further enquiry. At daybreak the drums announced the Day of Independence, which I find is to be celebrated in an extraordinary manner at Frankford. A half-brother of Richard Monks was sent for by the innkeeper; by him I learned the melancholy news of his brother's death which happened in Sept. 1832. He had left Lexington and settled at Louisville 3 or 4 months, then bought the half of a brother's estate opposite Troy on the Ohio; there his daughter married and settled at ----. Another son at Louisville keeping a coffee house. Walked with Mr. Monks to the College and heard two orations, vehement and abusive of the old country, lauding France and even Spain, the latter on account of Isabella who patronized Columbus, eulogised Bonaparte and declaimed against Russia for the treatment of the Poles; several negroes were peeping at the three doorways, but not allowed to enter or even to listen to an oration in favour of liberty.

Paid 5-1/2 dollars to Louisville. At home I am considered a quick eater, but here I have not half done before most have left the room. A gentleman I met here said the labour of the negroes in Louisiana cultivating sugar was excessive, so that the women have hardly any children. A factory 5 yards by 8, two storeys, 4 windows on one side, turned by three miserable blind horses. Disappointed that R. Monks' brother did not call, as he kept me waiting all afternoon. Slept two or three hours till the stage left at 12.

SATURDAY, JULY 5TH.

Awakened at half past eleven luckily; only two passengers but these took special care of themselves, lying along the seat sleeping all the way. The road exceedingly rough, so as to prevent me having a minute's sleep. Arrived at Frankford at six A.M., a very crowded inn. Never saw more drinking going on, all sorts of spirits, etc.; broken glass on the floor and an immense spitting box. A good road most of the way, limestone macadamised. A good many beech trees with some vines as thick as my leg climbing to the top. Only two passengers from Frankford and an agreeable breeze, so that I could not have done better in my own carriage. On coming out of Frankford we passed over a high old crazy bridge; changeable weather, thunder and rain and still very oppressively hot between the gleams. Arrived at Louisville 1/4 past five P.M. and felt less tired considering that I had not been in any bed but moving on for some days. Went to enquire for Mr. Hulme but found the canal office two miles off, therefore set about to find young Monks, but could learn nothing till I called at the Post Office where I got the information. Took coffee, then called upon him. Found him very busy supplying with spirits, and gave him Mr. Brandreth's letter and promised to call again when he was not so busy. Retired to bed at half past eight.

SUNDAY, JULY 6TH.

Rose half past six, dream about my dear father; got a good breakfast with plenty of good milk. Took a hack to Mr. Hulme, at the canal office, for which I paid 25 cents. Heard Mr. H. was at Louisville but expected immediately as they were repairing one of the locks. Shewn through a very large steamer, the _Mediterranean_, 600 tons capable of 800, and boilers 250 tons, consumes 36 tons of wood daily, sometimes goes to New Orleans in five days, 1500 miles.

Attended the Unitarian Church and heard an eloquent and very unusual discourse from 1 Tim. 2 ch. and 4 verse by Mr. Pierpoint; all the tunes known to me. On coming away I heard a very noisy preacher, a Revivalist, the man with me in the stage yesterday; a plain, poor chapel, the poor blacks in the galleries. After the sermon and singing several times, they were invited into the Church; about 8 or 10 godly women and children enrolled themselves. Called upon young Monks, had a pleasant chat and afterwards a walk along the esplanade. The canal is cut 2 miles through rock to avoid the falls. Came over the ground where a young man had been murdered, two out of four persons were found guilty and ordered to be executed in a month. Heard Mr. Pierpoint again this evening from the text "Pure religion and undefiled," the very best sermon I ever heard--religion a science of duties, as we stand related to each other, head, heart and hands; the Lord's Prayer if changed into synonymous language would be designated only a good moral sermon.

Saw Mr. Hulme this evening.

MONDAY, JULY 7TH.

Perspired much in the night; got up and dried myself with a towel; not much alarmed as my pulse strong and regular; perhaps it beats high in the thought that I am now at the most distant point from home.

Mr. Hulme called upon me and walked towards the steam boats; presented me with a chart of the Ohio. Called upon Joseph Monks, he sat with me on the steamer, then left and sent me six bottles of cyder. I promised him to write about their family. Left at 12 instead of 10. The table drawn out in a curious manner, a snack consisting of tongue, ham, almonds and raisins. Dined about half past one.

A long political debate in which a poor Jacksonian came off sadly worsted; considerable commercial knowledge displayed, but evidently too speculative a spirit, and consequently credit much thought of. At six took some coffee of which I am never tired. So hot that I pulled off my coat and handkerchief. The evening very pleasant--sparks from the chimney enough to fire the boat, this nearly the case with the _Mediterranean_ the large steamer I saw yesterday. A grand sky, beautifully reflected on the Ohio; millions of sparks from the boilers with flashes of lightning, afterwards almost one continued blaze with much thunder.

TUESDAY, JULY 8TH.

Rose at four having rested tolerably only; felt a weakness in the small of my back; breakfasted on coffee without milk, excepting a little given me by one of the passengers. Paid for passage 4 dollars including lunch, dinner, supper and breakfast. Found the sparks last night had burnt into the deck. Agreed with a fellow to carry my portmanteau to the _Erin_, another steamer for 25 cents, his own terms, but found it uncertain when she was going, therefore ordered the baggage to the hotel on the brow. The man wanted more but was silenced by the innkeeper who said it was enough for all day. Arrived at Cincinnati at eight A.M.

1500 hams hung up in one room plastered over with lime. A large foundry, 8 oxen drawing one tree. At one the mail came up going to Wheeling. Paid 6 dollars to Columbus; nobody but a French woman and her child for ten miles. Here at Reading whilst changing horses I got some most excellent bread, butter and milk for which I paid 12-1/2 cents. This seems a better conveyance than the old crazy steamer. Took a cup of buttermilk for which they would not receive anything. A truly corduroy road, that is logs of wood laid across the road. Nearly upset into the river by running against a tree. Arrived at Lebanon 1/4 before 7. This last stage to Wainville, the driver drove most furiously and the horses went like mad. Why should tin drop-spouts be used instead of wood or lead? Almost everywhere the footpaths in the streets are paved with bricks.

WEDNESDAY, JULY 9TH.

Got to Springfield at half past five, a restless trembling night; such roads and such furious driving as enough to break arms and legs, through pits of water after the logs failed. Pretty good land divided into small farms, woods rather than forests; rather flat and the road bad and muddy, still worse, exceeding any I ever saw and yet this is called a national road. Well there were no other passengers or we should have been hauled out. Got to Columbus, it was the last twenty miles, all mud, so that we could only walk most of the way. Coming into Columbus such a flood that fields of corn are spoiled, and the road, half a yard of granite washed away; the old bridge also washed away so that we had to be ferried. Paid to Wheeling 6-1/2 dollars. At the next stage I was informed my name was not entered as having paid my fare. During the night the coach stopt and I and the other passengers were desired to get out, the horses were completely set fast in the mud; after resting some time they made a further effort; we scrambled through the mud and got in; very surprising that the roads are not better protected by railing or walls, not even over the mountains or ridges.

THURSDAY, JULY 10TH.

Passed a nicely situated little town called Rushott at five. Only two passengers, therefore able to sleep pretty well. Arrived at Zanesville half past six, the last stage beautifully macadamised. Sour bread and poor coffee. Got them to allow my name to be entered for Wheeling as paid for. Arrived at Cambridge at twelve. The driver managed the drag chain by treading upon an iron lever. The last 20 miles very hilly. A large waggon drawn by horses with sets of bells. After walking I found the coach nearly filled so that I got on with the driver. Observed some coal breaking out on the top of one of the high hills; this is generally the case so that they tunnel out from the valleys and are not troubled with water. Arrived at this side of the Ohio 1/4 past nine P.M., too late to be ferried across, so that after taking the mail at Cincinnati at one o'clock to arrive at Wheeling in 48 hours, here, after 56 hours we are obliged to stop in a poor inn, and to take a bed with four others in the same room. These are the miseries of travelling; delays upon the road, especially being confined a day or two in some little uninteresting spot--so far, however, I have been pretty fortunate, and should not complain, but like all poor unreasonable mortals, the more we have, the more we wish to have. The last stage or two very hilly, covered as usual with forest. This I believe is the character of the country on both sides of the Ohio.

FRIDAY, JULY 11TH.

Rose soon after four and ferried across the Ohio in two places in consequence of an island; the ferry impelled across by means of a windlass letting down frame work into the water, and altering the position of the boat. When arrived at Wheeling hotel could hear of no boat till evening. Went again to bed; got up at nine, felt a little earache and not much appetite for breakfast, occasioned by disappointment at the delay. At one dined with improved appetite and actually eat an apple dumpling. Sat and read several newspapers without finding much from England; then read some good letters in the "North American Magazine"; felt in better spirits.

Took my place for Pittsburg, 3 dollars, visited a collection of wild beasts; amused by a monkey riding a Shetland pony, but most gratified by seeing a rhinoceros and elephant each four years old; the former had worn his teeth very much; both feed chiefly upon hay. The keeper puts his head twice a day into the lion's mouth, dangerous only as far as the animal being disturbed by some of the spectators. A camel or dromedary (only one hump) also four years old. Sailed from Wheeling 1/4 past seven; the evening most delightful, the air warm and fragrant, the sky remarkably clear; the stars and moon appeared nearer. Found from conversation with the Captain and others that Tuesday or Wednesday have been considered very warm, also more thunder and lightning than they had often seen.

SATURDAY, JULY 12TH.

Rose at two, got into the stage at Steubenville, at three the coach quite full; ferried across the Ohio; passed through Paris; the country is very hilly and the soil poor. Stopped at Florence to breakfast, the remainder of the way hilly. On approaching Pittsburgh reminded of home by the coal and smoke; arrived at one o'clock. More than twenty steamers lying in the river, here the Ohio is joined by the Alleghany, the latter a much clearer river. In the stage met with an intelligent young man on his way to Erie, so concluded to stop at the same hotel. Paid to Wasson (?) half way to Erie 3 dollars. Walked to some iron works and saw them make rails very quickly, also some cannon boring. Walked across the aqueduct 400 yards long, cost 112,000 dollars. Called at the Post Office, but again disappointed.

Very sultry this evening, and I feel as if not likely to sleep; this is one of the depressing periods. After coffee I took a walk to the Catholic Church situated on an eminence. Pittsburgh is in a valley surrounded on all sides by verdant hills, and smoky as one of our English towns. This evening is so serene that the moon does not appear half its usual distance from the earth. Feel much relieved and refreshed by the walk and meditation. The first fence I had seen is here, and this by way of protecting the road, also the first time I had seen any horses' tails docked.

SUNDAY, JULY 13TH.