Chapter V: Part 5

After breakfast the wind gradually lessened, making only about 4 knots; the sails flapping and the ship rolling all the afternoon; particularly between 6 and 10, making it very noisy and disagreeable in the state room; had agreed for Mr. Street to read one of Chalmers's sermons, "On getting money," but the creaking noise prevented my hearing. Read three of Cobbett's sermons, "Bribery," "Rights of the Poor" and "Unjust Judges," also the remainder of Mrs. Trollope's "Description of Niagara."

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 29TH.

Did not rise till eight having not rested very well; also dreamed of my dear father being considered dead and going to be buried, and then coming to life again. Found the wind changed to the south and consequently much warmer; going 10 knots. About 8 or 9 since 10 last night. Air and water 64 degrees. The wind lessened about 4 and continued between 6 and 7 knots. Commenced reading "The Vicar of Wakefield."

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 30TH.

Rose soon after seven; the ship rolling more, so that I had difficulty in shaving. Found that we had been going about ten knots since five, and about eight during the night. After breakfast, we shipped a sea which sprinkled one whilst reading below. Finished the "Vicar of Wakefield." One of the sails tore down. At one P.M. observed a brig going westerly; the wind heavy and the canvas gradually taken in, till we had only a part of two sails of 1st and 2nd mast; fine waves that broke most beautifully curiously coloured, called "Dear little Kangaroos."

WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 1ST.

Rose soon after seven, having passed the night pretty well, excepting dreaming a good deal about travelling. Found the wind still favourable but more north; going about eight knots. Passed a brig this morning. Commenced reading Hamilton's[33] "Men and Manners in America"; would be very cold but for the sunshine. A good wind all day; sail reduced towards evening in expectation of a gale, but it went off.

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 2ND.

Passed a restless night, the ship rolling a good deal; dreaming that my father was at Bury attending one of our religious meetings, wearing one of my ruffled shirts. I found we had been getting on, 8 or 9 knots till about five, since only 5 or 6, but should be thankful having had nearly a week's good run. About 4 knots all forenoon; at 12 a little more wind with some rain. A sail to the south-east; another brig in sight at 2 o'clock. A few porpoises.

FRIDAY, OCTOBER 3RD.

Found the wind south-west and making about ten knots; this since eleven o'clock. Finished the first volume of the "Kentuckians" and read a little in the "Youth's Letter-Writer." A fair wind all day, going eleven knots; cold though the wind is south-west.

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 4TH.

The wind still favourable and from the south, making us all night about ten knots. The Captain complains of the alterations made in this line of packets, since one of the old captains took a share. The seamen have ten or twelve dollars per month; the Captain is obliged to take a fourth share; a loss if only two or three passengers; six or seven about pay with a fair cargo. This is Captain Wilson's 97th crossing; only 36 years old; went to sea at fourteen; married about four years ago a French lady at Bordeaux, the father American, with the mother French; two children. A very wet disagreeable day, so that we could not take the usual exercise on deck, and yet tempted to eat more by way of pastime. At dinner one or two Yankees found great fault with my saying "A good deal of factories," declaring it to be bad English, in which Mr. Frankland also acquiesced, thinking it improper to apply the word "deal" to numbers; a deal of money, but not a deal of guineas. I admitted it might be more elegant, though the other was not inaccurate. (See "Johnson's Dic.")

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 5TH.

Little or no wind, and that against us all night so that we have made no way. After all it is best to have the calm at night, more especially as we approach the coast where we may expect to meet more ships. Passed a brig going to the east. A number of porpoises, some of the older attended by their young. Read four or five more of Cobbett's "Sermons." A good deal of conversation about the New York Banks, assisted by the Yankees who would be ready to condemn the reading of Hamilton. Yesterday at 2 had made 252 miles in 24 hours: 272 the most that was ever done by Captain Wilson.

MONDAY, OCTOBER 6TH.

Did not get up till eight as I had not slept so well in consequence of the ship rolling a good deal. Found we have only been going five or six knots during the night. All forenoon the wind light, not more than 4 knots per hour. Went upon deck after nine and was much amused at seeing the porpoises; some could be heard at a distance pushing through the water and soon pass the ship; others would come close to the vessel sometimes two abreast, then would separate and one come with such force that I thought I could almost feel it hit the vessel. Played at Shuffleboard which is done by sliding circular boards upon nine squares with figures making 15 each way.

TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7TH.

Did not rise till eight; a brilliant morning but found as expected, that we had had only light winds and made little progress through the night. A most delightful day, sunshine with fair wind. At five, a cry of "Land," we instantly went on deck and observed the Irish coast dimly on the horizon. Read the remainder of the "Youth's Letter Writer," and also Hamilton's "Men and Manners," also Meredith's "Orations." Soon after seeing the land I began to think of my late father and wept to think I should see him no more to relate my wonderful adventures. The wind has been favourable all day and improved still more since noon. About half past six we perceived a lighthouse supposed to be at Kinsale.

WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 8TH.

Rose at six; found we had been going well all night; were then passing some high land called Saltees[34]. Two vessels astern, one inward, the other outward bound. Heard the Captain up several times. Passed Tuskar lighthouse at eight; one or two towers and several white cottages. Passed Holyhead at five o'clock about five miles off. A glorious sail all day till half past five, then the sky assumed a stormy aspect, the clouds dark and flying in different directions. At half past six a lighthouse hoisted us a signal for a pilot. In about fifteen minutes a light was observed which the Captain said was from a pilot's boat. In 1/4 of an hour after the boat came up and sent off a small boat alongside, when a lusty pilot was at length pulled up into our ship. He brought a newspaper, Whitehaven, 15th July. Immediately the sail was hauled in so that it scarcely moved, though the gale had considerably increased; though a clumsy sort of fellow we all felt easier and no doubt shall sleep better. On coming opposite we hoisted signal 292 which is the number of the _Hibernia_.

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 9TH.

Last night the pilot came into the cabin at half past ten, and reported the gale to have abated. I turned in immediately to sleep on the favourable intelligence. At twelve, the gale again increased but I was unconscious. Rose before seven; found the wind still favourable. Passing Great Orme's Head; two or three vessels about us, one the _Archer_ that I saw at Quebec, we passed close by. At half past ten a boat came up with four men to assist us in landing. They left Liverpool at twelve and therefore exposed to the gale and all for 17/6. So true as Goldsmith says, "One half the world does not know how the other half lives"; the boat 6-1/2 yards long and only about one foot above the water abaft. Another boat comes alongside; arrived opposite to Prince's Dock a little before two; was nearly an hour in raising it, and then so long in hauling it into dock that I did not get ashore till half past three, too late to pass the Customs house this evening. The first person I saw on shore known to me was young Crook, then Miss Crook and Mary Ann Marsden. Went to the Crooked Billet and engaged a bed; put the letter into the Liverpool Post Office from Mr. Webster and called with Mr. Bowker's letter, but found the Aunt gone from home. Spent the evening at Mr. Crook's.

FRIDAY, OCTOBER 10TH.

Changed a 2-3/4 dollars into 11/2; paid my bill at the Crooked Billet, 3/6 for wine, bed and breakfast and servants; went to Custom House; paid for box of insects 1/6, not duty but entrance fee, 1/- for porterage from packet, they wanted much more, 6_d._ for calling a car, the carman asked 3/6 but on refusing he consented to take 2/6; not allowed to enter the yard therefore paid another 6_d._ to the porter, leaving me only 2/6 and the fare to Bolton was 4/-. I looked out for some person I knew. I spoke to a man that I thought was attached to the Bolton Branch, but he did not prove so. Went to the office to desire that I might pay at Bolton; he declined. I asked a lady but she shyed off, and it seemed as if I must stay till the afternoon's train. Luckily another gentleman who was quite a stranger, said he would give me 5/-, he never lent to strangers. The attendant at the Bolton Branch knew me and I borrowed the money and paid my friend indeed, and should have been glad to have asked him to dinner, but he was somewhat intoxicated. He wrote his name and asked me to call upon him at Birmingham, and enquire for Jack Norton.

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 11TH.

I found my sister, her husband and little one with my mother. They had just dined; my father's absence overpowered me and I could eat little dinner.

LETTERS

-1-

Philadelphia, 17th June, 1834.

From THOS. HULME to PISHEY THOMPSON.

My Dear Sir,

Allow me to make you acquainted with our friend Mr. Robert Heywood, the bearer of this, who is a very respectable gentleman from our native town of Bolton and who was well acquainted with our old and much respected friend Dr. Taylor.

Mr. Heywood is now on a tour of pleasure for the purpose of seeing a portion of this great and good country; which needs nothing but great men to render it one of the greatest and most wealthy, "and when the moral, in place of the criminal passions shall prevail," one of the most happy nations in the world. As our friend may stop a few days in Washington, I thought he might spend a few hours pleasantly in your store, and if you can add anything to his pleasure and happiness by showing him anything worth seeing in your wicked city, or by giving him any sort of useful information you will, by so doing, very much oblige your

Sincere friend,
THOS. HULME.

N.B. Please make Mr. Heywood acquainted with F. Taylor.

-2-

From Mr. HULME to Mr. JOHN SHACKFORD,
Senate Chamber.

Philadelphia, 17th June, 1834.

My Dear Sir,

Allow me to introduce to you a friend and countryman, Mr. Robert Heywood, a very respectable gentleman from our native town of Bolton, who is on a tour of pleasure to see this great and good country, and who intends to visit an old countryman in Lexington, Kentucky, if he be still living there. Have the goodness to make Mr. Heywood acquainted with Mr. Clay who probably may know his friend in Lexington, and please introduce him to any other of our friends with whom he or you may wish him to be acquainted. These favours with any other kindnesses you may render to our friend will oblige very much your sincere friend

THOS. HULME.

-3-

Philadelphia, 18th June, 1834.

To Mr. JOHN HULME.

Dear John,

The bearer, Mr. Robert Heywood, is from the town of Bolton, in our native county and is on a tour of pleasure to see this great and good country. Thee will show to him the L. & P. Canal and thee will give him some idea of the quantity of merchandise which now passes through it, compared with the merchandise on the river ten years since. Thee can make him acquainted with some of the good men in Louisville not forgetting our good old country folks Mr. & Mrs. Keats, to whom give my best respects. Thee will make him acquainted with some of the best offices, of the best steamboats on the river, so that he may be well treated. Thee will also give him good advice so as to enable him to avoid as much evil and to enjoy as much comfort and happiness as possible, and by so doing thee will oblige very much thy truly affectionate father

THOS. HULME.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Liverpool.

[2] Richard Watson (1781-1833), Wesleyan Minister.

[3] Richard Lemon Lander (1804-1834) accompanied Hugh Clapperton the African explorer on his travels and wrote accounts of these.

[4] Adam Fergusson.

[5] Dead-lights = strong shutters made to fit the cabin window to prevent the water entering in a storm.

[6] A fish caught on the rocky shores of New England (Tautoga Americana).

[7] See a description of this phenomena in the _Nautical Mag._ Oct. 1832.

[8] Grampus, a fish similar to a whale, but carnivorous.

[9] Presumably Basil Hall (1788-1844) who wrote books of his travels.

[10] Frances Trollope (1780-1863) wife of Thomas Anthony Trollope, writer and novelist; visited America 1827-30.

[11] Founded in 1831 by Étienne Girard, a native of France, for the education of orphans.

[12] Richard Crook, a friend.

[13] Andrew Jackson, President, 1829-1837.

[14] William Tipping, a director of the L.N.W. railway in England.

[15] Pishey Thompson (1784-1862), historian of Boston.

[16] Alexander I, Tsar of Russia, 1801-1825.

[17] Since removed as unsafe.

[18] The Canal from the Rideau Lake connects the Ottawa River and Lake Ontario.

[19] John George Lambton, Earl of Durham (1792-1840), was High Commissioner in Canada. Author of "Report on the affairs of British North America."

[20] The boundary between Canada and the United States.

[21] Built in 1823-32.

[22] Built by the French in 1755.

[23] All three had recently been rebuilt.

[24] Died at Boston 1832.

[25] Erected 1825-42 to commemorate the battle of Bunker Hill 1775.

[26] _Constitution_, American ship in war of 1813.

[27] William Ellery Channing, D.D., 1780-1842, Unitarian Minister at Boston from 1803 until his death.

[28] The sunken reefs which made this dangerous to navigation were removed by nitro-glycerine explosions in 1876 and 1885.

[29] The Catskill Mountains rise abruptly from the Hudson 2000-3000 feet high.

[30] Dr. Priestley died at Northumberland, Pa., 1804.

[31] Botan. Conocarpus.

[32] A light four-wheeled carriage.

[33] Thomas Hamilton, 1789-1842.

[34] Two small islands south-west of Wexford.

Transcriber's Note:

Minor typographical errors have been corrected without note. Bearing
in mind that the bulk of this text is a personal journal, irregular
punctuation, use of hyphens and variant spellings remain as printed.

End of Project Gutenberg's A Journey to America in 1834, by Robert Heywood