Chapter III: Part 3

Got up at half past four: the stage nearly full. Observed almost the first potatoes in this neighbourhood. Crossed the Alleghany by means of a steam ferry. Paid for breakfast 25 cents. Arrived at Butler at one; hilly most of the way; a good many Dutch settlers in this part. Several large ant hills. Paid for the dinner, very good veal cutlets and excellent coffee, only 25 cents, the cheapest dinner I have had in America. The interesting young man mentioned yesterday is a Mr. Kennedy, a painter at Meadville, a Presbyterian; said they had in their town a Mr. Channing, an Unitarian and nephew to Dr. C. but not considered so clever. The coach we travelled in to-day is almost new, cost 520 dollars; this day fortnight in crossing the creek this side the Alleghany River, it was washed down the stream nearly half a mile rolling over all that way; only one passenger and the driver remained with it, and both escaped; had all the other passengers remained in, it is supposed the accident would not have happened. More like a Sabbath evening, the people seated at their log houses reading. The moon very splendid and apparently much nearer the earth than with us in England. Paid for the remainder of my passage to Erie 3 dollars; also for tea 25 cents.

MONDAY, JULY 14TH.

Passed a very restless night, scarcely sleeping at all. One of the passengers sick and he feared it was the cholera. This made me feel uncomfortable and I wished to sit with the driver, but was deterred by being told of Kennedy's brother, who had the year before fallen from the same stage and been killed on the spot, supposed to have been asleep.

Got to Meadville situated on the rising part of an extended vale. Here I parted with Mr. K. and his sick companion who is a paper maker. An old intelligent Irishman who had come out thirty years ago, and had done very well, was one of the passengers; he spoke of his domestic afflictions and particularly the death of his wife. Very warm but luckily only 4 passengers. The last drive of 15 miles has been very warm and a rough road, yet the horses do not appear much distressed; got a glass of buttermilk. Dined at Waterford; paid 25 cents. The stage filled; the sun had got to my side of the coach; a slow drive and choked with dust, by far the most disagreeable ride I have had. Got to Erie at half past four, told there was no boat to Buffalo till morning. I went upstairs to wash and put on a clean shirt, and was then informed of a boat, but I could not get ready in time; though perhaps it was only a trick of the innkeeper, it may be as well to get a good night's repose; without now and then a check I should in uninteresting places be hurrying on too fast and knock myself up. Fell in with a pleasing intelligent young man; now that they were out of debt I said they might improve the public roads--he said grants were occasionally made, but were objected to as unconstitutional.

TUESDAY, JULY 15TH.

Got up at half past six, felt restored and now think it better than pushing on in the steamboat last night. The young man confirmed the old Irishman's account of the student at Meadville, viz. that the young one we had seen would be at his studies in the morning, and in the afternoon discharge his board by working as a blacksmith. Accompanied on board the steamer by the innkeeper; found the wind favourable; sailed soon after 8 A.M. not a nice boat and the engine out of order, so that we shall be late before we get into Buffalo. Read in a periodical belonging to one of the passengers a terrible story written by Lord Morpeth. A most delightful breeze on the lake; how different to yesterday when stewed on the coach and covered with dust. Had some good singing on board by Methodists; got out at Portland and had a most delicious bath before dinner. Called at Dunkirk, also at Silver Creek; prevailed upon the ladies (Methodists) to sing again; paid for passage two dollars and 1/2 for dinner. Read a good deal in the "Temperance Intelligencer," in which a correspondent attempted to prove that the wine approved in Scripture was not fermented; another disapproves of the use of cyder and recommends the cutting down of apple trees. Landed at Buffalo at 8 P.M. a very pleasant sail. Some trouble in getting my portmanteau to the inn; an offer from Irishmen who did not know the place. Here informed of a change in the English Ministry.

WEDNESDAY, JULY 16TH.

Rose at six and felt somewhat languid, having never I suppose had time for such feelings. No walking in America; taken down by stages to the boats however short the distance. Bought a pennyworth of cracked hickory nuts. A delightful breeze. Met on the steamer an English gentleman, his lady and child. Set off in a stage and left Buffalo at eleven A.M.; found it a pleasant drive mostly along the banks of the river. Arrived at Niagara soon after four P.M. Immediately set off to the Falls; engaged till nearly seven without thinking of food, though I had eaten nothing since six this morning. Much struck with the Bridge over the Rapids to the Goat Island. Then walked towards the ferry, an immense sheet of water though only a small part compared with the Horse Shoe; returned and crossed over to Goat Island down Biddle's Staircase between the two cascades; afterwards to the bridge that overhangs the tremendous Fall, a huge piece of rock below occasionally visible when the foam was blown away; the vast clouds of mist rising very considerably into the air, and the stream for a great distance as white as milk. Ascended the tower[17], whence there is a more extensive view of the Rapids above as well as the river below. Again, after tea I went over the same ground and had a moonlight view of this most wonderful spectacle.

THURSDAY, JULY 17TH.

Rose before six, again visited the Falls. Left soon after eight; paid the porter 12-1/2 cents, but he wanted more for cleaning my shoes. A favourable passage across as the wind blew the spray upwards; the water in parts much agitated; the ferryman demanded six cents extra for my baggage; nobody to carry it forward up the hill to the hotel; a man who came in the boat offered to carry it for 50 cents; this I refused and set off with it myself. I had not carried it more than two-thirds up the hill before I repented; the man came up and agreed for 25 cents; as it proved further than I expected I gave him a glass in addition. After changing my flannel shirt and getting a glass of milk I set off to the Falls, found a party going under the cascade; undressed and put on trousers, an oil-case jacket with a belt and a pair of rough shoes, and descended the staircase. There were two ladies but they were placed under the care of the guide. The rock projects amazingly, the path is narrow and rather slippery being constantly wet with the spray; at one place we were told to keep our heads down and hold our breath. I must say it proved more of an adventure than I expected; it resembled a tremendous shower of rain blown at us with the utmost fury; nothing much is to be seen, and I scarcely think it worth the trouble; the visit might be rendered much safer by means of a chain fastened alongside of the rock. A more irregular confused hotel, I never was in. Walked to the Falls alone by moonlight.

FRIDAY, JULY 18TH.

Rose half past five; paid six cents for shoes; walked to the Fall, still more magnificent than ever; green where there is most water; the whole Horseshoe filled with vapour rising a vast height, and at the bottom the water is rolled away one complete mass of foam, white as snow, too dazzling to behold; the spray rises in beautiful clouds and falls in gentle drops nearly a mile off. Paid for Niagara one dollar. Left at eleven, called to see the Whirlpool formed by the river going into a bay; then Brock's monument 170 steps; giving a fine view of the lake. Allowed 2-1/2 dollars for book and map. The stage gave way on going out, found the leather spring had broken, but we managed to go on slowly to Niagara. Bathed in Lake Ontario, then dined for 50 cents. Found one of our passengers to be Major Penn, who had been a good while in the East Indies and other parts of the world; also a young Irishman, a Canadian and an American. Sailed 1/4 before six; arrived at York at half past nine, went on shore to buy "The Tourist," and a map, but found the shops closed; returned and went to bed. The berths double and if fully occupied would be very disagreeable. Felt tired in the knee-joints, supposed from descending the staircase at the Falls and going up Brock's monument. Got a comfortable cup of tea, bread good, etc. Paid 6 dollars for passage including board. More satisfaction here than waiting for the _Great Britain_ to-morrow; our passengers only about 8 or 10 and the cabin spacious and neat.

SATURDAY, JULY 19TH.

Passed a good night and rose a little before seven. Breakfast at 8 on tea and toast with some good veal cutlets. Read a Canada paper containing rather more Bristol news than the American papers, also a conceited account of the Falls. A very pleasant breeze. An intelligent gentleman from New York explained the reason for such excessive labour in this country, that a man was better rewarded, and after getting a few dollars he was stimulated to further exertion, and again he was able to make more of these savings by further investments or speculations. He thought there was much less learning among the young men in America; they became impatient to go into business; all at 21 years feel independent and able to get on, and consequently little under the control of the parents unless wealthy.

Left Toronto this morning at seven, arrived at Port Hope half past four; got to Cobourg half past six, went on shore and bathed again in the Lake Ontario, found the water cooler. A group of young women with fresher complexions than I had seen before in America. A head wind and the water considerably agitated. Walked the deck till after nine with two young men that are purposing going to Quebec.

SUNDAY, JULY 20TH.

During the night the boat pitched and rolled more than I expected. Got up at half past five, found some difficulty in shaving and a little qualmish. Passed two islands covered with wood. Made a poor breakfast, the milk had turned sour and I did not like the egg substitute. Went on shore at Kingston; entered a Sunday School but heard only some noisy instruction; then entered the English Church but service not commenced; then a Catholic Church, had some drops sprinkled upon me by the priest. Looked through a new steamer which was being built, a double wheel and the paddles alternately. A great quantity of wheat swept off the deck in our steamer. A great deal of money squandered here in barracks, forts, etc.; two ships rotting upon the stocks. The Rideau Canal[18] comes to this place, only good as furnishing employment, but what becomes of old England? Passed the 1000 islands, rocky and covered with wood. An old Canadian with an elegant bag for tobacco studded with beads. Very sleepy and dull most of this afternoon. At seven came to Brockville a pretty little town situated on rising ground. Arrived at Prescott soon after nine. Cholera reported to be very bad at Quebec, ninety a day dying; still I shall go on, hoping for the best.

MONDAY, JULY 21ST.

Rose at four, got some new milk as a good foundation; paid 1/- English for bed, walked over the new steamboat with air-tubes on each side and two small helms attached to each, a 1-1/2 yd. long and 1/3 deep turning nearly upon the centre, 180 feet long and about 27 wide; two engines. Left at six, breakfasted outside; had a beautiful view of the bank and island. Paid 1/9 and 7 dollars for passage to Montreal. The sail most delightful; in some places the surface became suddenly disturbed, one side a whirlpool, the other boiling up. The Durham boats[19], as they are called, are drawn up the river by means of six oxen. Cornwall[20] 1/4 past 11. One of the Durham boats drawn by two horses belly deep in the river because the banks are grassy and soft. Hazel trees different to ours; a good deal of nuts. Passed a very splendid Rapid, called at St. Regis, an Indian village; three young Indians nearly naked, one of them caught a halfpenny thrown a considerable distance, then jumped into the river; sailed with us in our boat then plunged into the water towards the shore; they had very black hair and were very brown. An old female Indian came to beg; also a canoe with two females and a little one. Prevailed on one of the females to sing: thought it a Catholic chant in the Indian language. Saw two canoes all of one piece of wood. Another delightful drive along the banks of the St. Lawrence; more Rapids; also a beautiful garden, almost the first I have seen since my visit to America. Arrived at Montreal at nine. The two last days have been spent delightfully.

TUESDAY, JULY 22ND.

Did not rise till seven, having dreamed a good deal about my late dear father. Read some newspapers; then joined Mr. Bradner in a gig up the mountain (Mount Royal); went the wrong way, so that we missed a good deal of the view of the city and river but ascended again; not so pleasant on account of the dust. Walked to the Hotel Dieu to see some ruins, but it proved only a hospital for sick people. Walked into the Cathedral, Notre Dame, a very large building, two galleries on each side and the seats below raised up from the altar. Got back and then walked to the Exchange News Room, read a good many English newspapers but found nothing particularly interesting; thence again to the Cathedral. Just before dinner, four o'clock, I was informed that the steamer was not going to Quebec; could not believe till I went down; they told me the agents had sent orders not to go in consequence of so few passengers, but that they certainly should go to-morrow, when they expected more passengers as there were races at Three Rivers. I and Ready from Bermuda sauntered about till dusk. This is one of the miseries of travelling, to be delayed in some little uninteresting place, or after you have seen all that is worth notice, of which there is very little in Montreal; fortunately the hotel is good enough, everything remarkably clean.

WEDNESDAY, JULY 23RD.

Rose at seven, no inducement to get up sooner. Called at the stage office to enquire about the Post Office and if they knew any Mr. Webster; was told he had left last night, tired of the place, no wonder! Employed all day reading the newspapers; an Indian came down by the wharf in a canoe to sell, asked ten dollars for it; found Major Penn, London; Messrs. White and Livingstone came up. The heat at 4 o'clock 96 degrees, but have passed the day very quietly in a shaded news-room. In addition to the _St. George_ there is the Canadian steamer the _Eagle_ so that I shall surely get away. Was informed that the weather has been unusually hot since the beginning of July, without rain. Whilst in the news-room the chief conversation was the cholera; one of the gentlemen at table said the fear of it had driven away 30 or 40 people from this house; surprised to find myself so comfortable under all these circumstances. Went on board the _St. George_ steamer at eight, a noble vessel beautifully fitted up. On setting off a woman was taken on shore, a young man looked very dismal, and said she was taken with the cholera; she proved to have got into a wrong boat which I took care to inform the young man.

THURSDAY, JULY 24TH.

Rose at five having rested very well, though I suspected the bed-clothes not being dry. Went on shore at Three Rivers and into the market; Indians selling coloured baskets; a good supply of eggs and vegetables, also square lumps of sugar made from the maple. Bought a few red currants, notwithstanding the cholera; a number of canoes with different kinds of fish; the eels thicker than ours; just in time for the steamer, will not cut it so fine again. This morning almost chilly; yesterday at 4, 95 degrees and at six, 81. The shores on each side are lined with neat cottages. Good coffee and bread. Soon after nine the eccentric collar of one of the engines broke, so that we shall be some hours late; the other engine is also out of order, so that we may not arrive before 8 or 9. Luckily both were set to rights, and the tide is in our favour so that we now hope to get in at 3. Arrived at Quebec at two and hurried to the Post Office. Startled at sister's letter having a black wafer, but was greatly delighted to find all well both in it and in C. D.'s. The weather intensely hot. On enquiring for T. Marsden at the P.O. found his son lived next door to the Albion Hotel, and kept a small druggist's shop; I was shown upstairs; William and young wife with her mother, who had come from New York on a visit with another daughter were there. William looking better but very thin, which they said had been the case during the last three weeks in consequence of so much sickness; the cholera very bad, 29 deaths yesterday. Thomas lives about 1-1/2 miles off. Dined at the Hotel (Albion), walked with William to the hospital and then to his sister's; the little girl sang for us.

FRIDAY, JULY 25TH.

Rose at six. A good night's rest having supped chiefly upon milk. A thunderstorm at four reconciled us to it, in hopes of its driving away the cholera, which after all I cannot but think is exaggerated. Took a calash with young Fred Andrews, a most intelligent child of 8 years. Went over some romantic country, and in two hours came to an open space on the side of a mountain covered with trees. Fred pointed to his grandmother; she did not know me but was greatly affected. Found Thomas engaged in a small room teaching 26 boys and girls, some coming three miles. He did not know me; but was not so much altered as I expected. His wife soon told me of T.'s irregularities which caused him to leave the school at Quebec, and they had come to this wild place to break his connections; their neighbours gone except two or three the most villainous low Irish. If she left home some of the dram sellers would fetch away hay to pay T.'s shots. After dinner T. and I set off to Beauport Lake; sailed across, caught a nice trout but no other fish, and were only allowed to use the line. A great quantity of raspberries, and there had been many strawberries. His income at one time had been 25 dollars per week. He had received 100 dollars for tuning the organ at the Cathedral.

SATURDAY, JULY 26TH.

Made arrangements for setting off to the Falls (Montmorency Falls) at six, but the rain prevented us, almost the first disappointment in all my journey. It cleared up and we set off, a party of five to the Falls; a pleasant drive with several pleasing views of the city; disappointed with the Cascade; the grass wet, and not able to get to the foot; a strong current going to a saw mill. Returned soon after twelve; walked with T. Marsden's wife to the Potters' field to see Ainsworth's grave stone, but did not find it. Then to the Citadel[21] whence I had a magnificent view though not quite clear; and descended by the tremendous staircase, 365 steps with an inclined plane to wind up stone. Crossed over the river in a four horse ferry to see the Indians settled there, but did not find them. On my return the boat had sailed and I was rowed in a canoe by three children; got to the inn a little after four. Found two pairs of stockings missing; got 2/- allowed. Paid 1-1/4 dollars for going to Montmorency. Rain as we set off to the steamboat: sailed at seven on my way home. Between 30 and 40 sat down to tea and coffee, the latter very good. Had some conversation with Mr. Livingstone; found he was a large store-keeper dealing in silks, woollens and cottons.

SUNDAY, JULY 27TH.

Very noisy people during the night, apparently great confusion and danger in passing the Rapids. Rose 1/4 past six, hazy almost the first time. Introduced by W. M. to a Mr. Buchanan a surveyor. 160 emigrants on the _Canada_, 12 unable to pay their fare, and their boxes taken as security. A heavy shower of rain cooled the air. Arrived at Montreal at half past four; saw the steamer sailing off to La Prairie though the Captain told me it did not go on Sunday evenings till five. Several of us were very anxious to be getting on to La Prairie; engaged a boat for two dollars more; had a written agreement. Very much troubled not to find the lady and her son and daughter ready for the boat; set off to meet them, came back determined to go on with Mr. Ready as it was getting late. The boatman came to tell me they were all waiting of me; got my luggage on board; a very narrow boat; found a good deal of agitation in the Rapids and the water nearly coming over, but we were all pretty experienced in sailing. On landing was surprised to find the four passengers with their luggage and four boatmen had crossed the St. Lawrence in a canoe. Two calashes were brought up, also a stage with four horses which had been sent in consequence of the steamer not waiting as they expected a signal from the _Canada_. The Captain behaved very ill, first promising to be in at four, and then telling us it did not sail till five. However, we engaged to go on to St. John's for two dollars. Arrived after twelve.

MONDAY, JULY 28TH.

Rested very well and rose at seven; a misty morning. Saw some fish, perch, etc., just taken. Sailed at six in the _Franklin_, the very nicest boat I have ever seen. A delightful morning; leaving the sick cities, Quebec and Montreal, and hastening home in good health and spirits. The Lake Champlain, only about 80 yards wide, and the shores low, covered with brushwood. Paid for passage to Ticonderoga 4-1/2 dollars. The dinner very good, five or six servants with turban caps. The dessert consisted of nuts, almonds, walnuts and raisins; all the spoons, etc., of silver; altogether the very neatest boat I ever saw. The Captain's room fitted with excellent portraits, in another part all sorts of advertisements, with a beautiful desk for the public use. Asked a dollar for a bottle of porter, then said half a dollar. Took a pint of port wine, charged one dollar; an impudent fellow with one of the waiters saw the bottle, he filled up his glass and drank it off without once looking at me. At Plattsburg on Lake Champlain an American officer came on board and allowed our portmanteaus to pass, on condition they contained only clothes. Very delightful scenery; beautiful islands with distant mountains on each side; a broad road up the mountain; an avalanche. Went on shore at Burlington and had a delightful bathe, the water pleasantly warm and a sandy slope. Quite a crowd at tea so had to attend the second course. Lay down in a berth till 12; then looked after luggage which I found to be all safely locked up; everything managed in the most admirable style; the sailors all in uniform and the boat let down with a rope, so that passengers could be landed with scarcely stopping the boat. At Ticonderoga the greatest hurry for beds; an offer made to pay for double-bedded rooms, so resigned myself to chairs: afterwards had a comfortable bedroom.

TUESDAY, JULY 29TH.

A pleasant walk before breakfast, paid 1-1/4 dollar for lodging, breakfast, and fare to Adirondack. Visited the ruined fort[22] at Ticonderoga. Changed seats with a Mr. E. Tech--arrived at the foot of Lake George at 10. Walked towards Ticonderoga and returned by water; two saws at work cutting planks; went down below the falls; the river choked with bits of wood from the saw-mills. In descending on the other side two Indian boys were fishing. The mountain is covered with pines and also with bold rocks. We were told the highest mountain took fire about two years ago, and continued in flames more than a week; the dead pines are still remaining. The latter part of the Lake more interesting; several islands.

Arrived at Caldwell a little after seven. Paid the Captain 1-1/2 dollars he not having been able to give me silver out of a 5 dollar note; he then recommended me to be cautious about notes. After much trouble about beds we had tea with old bread, butter, plenty of sweets, also whinberries, etc. At length I prevailed upon a party to leave early and breakfast at Glen Falls. Went to bed before nine.

WEDNESDAY, JULY 30TH.

Rose half past four. Took a seat with the conductor, found it very cool, a wonderful contrast since yesterday. The road very sandy; passed a place where the stage had been upset last night. Got to Glen Falls on the Hudson a little after seven; walked down before breakfast to a little Niagara; it looked very well rushing over the black rock, the river being very considerable. Hazel nuts most abundant. The ride very delightful. Reached Saratoga before 12, according to written agreement being 4-1/2 hours, though only 17 miles. Stopped at Congress Hall Hotel to see as much as possible of the fashionable world; dined at two; 150 to 170 passengers, many with their servants, and some of the gentlemen had their wine cooling in ice-water; some very pretty ladies, and gentlemen rather better looking than ordinary. Purchased a copy of the "American Traveller" for 1-1/2 dollars. Some good singing by a gentleman, also some ladies played very well; afterwards went to a ball at the United States Hotel; saw some curious dancing, whirling one another round very fast. At a loss to find my room No. 156.

THURSDAY, JULY 31ST.

Could not sleep after five in consequence of the noise of visitors leaving. Took a walk to the well, drank some water and bought a ring. Left by the railway half past nine; the seat I had was taken by a gentleman who moved, but was revenged by getting a lady to take the place, so I mounted aloft; the breeze was pleasant. Leaving Ballston the carriage ran off the rail, which caused a concussion and seemed like to have squeezed our legs hanging down before; also a disagreeable passage over and under the bridges at Schenectady; on the river Mohawk the same on landing; an interesting but perilous journey, drawn by horses and engine; wound up one place by a stationary engine. Some deep ridges cut through and rather filled up. Arrived at Albany at one. Met with an interesting young Englishman. Paid to Boston 6 dollars. Walked to the river and bought a sweet apple and looked at a pig weighing 1400 lbs. unable to get up without assistance. Visited a planing and grooving mill, the dust from it must make the business very unhealthy; then a grand Baptist Church with six noble columns all of wood; then the Capitol or State House, and the City Hall[23], whence I had a magnificent view of the city and river Hudson. After tea visited a plane manufactory. Many birds, yellow like the canary. Went to bed at 8-1/2.

FRIDAY, AUGUST 1ST.

Called up at half past twelve to join the stage, and dragged up and down the streets collecting passengers at different inns. Forced to go by another route than had been intended. The stage quite full and two with the driver; one next me pushed me and said he did it more on account of a lady near him: I said nothing, but pushed again; breakfast passed rather sullenly; on returning and finding one of the passengers had left, I said I hoped he found room without pushing; and told him in his regard for the lady, he had not forgotten himself. After this we had a good deal of pleasant conversation. A good deal of white marble cut into slabs for gravestones. At Stockbridge a saw-mill; seven saws going at once. Breakfasted at Seddon, paid 37-1/2 cents for some poor coffee and tough chicken. Dined at Beckett, good pie and pudding with milk 37-1/2 cents. One sixth of the way passed in the dark, 1/6th hilly and sheep land, with now and then a garden and better farms, 2/6ths mountainous and forest, 2/6ths still nicer, farming, great neatness and still better fencing. Passed a long bridge over the river Connecticut, and arrived at Springfield at half past seven P.M.; though only stopping till three in the morning I was shown into the best room I have been in in America. Noticed a hawk flying with a snake in its beak. Went to bed at eight. Paid only 62 cents for tea and a very good and spacious room.

SATURDAY, AUGUST 2ND.

Rose at seven and breakfasted on nothing good but eggs. Passed manufactures of cotton and woollen. Arrived at Worcester at half past one; the neatest town I have ever seen; every house appeared to be newly painted white, and with very pretty gardens. The road afterwards hilly with uneven places where the water gets off the road; the last twenty miles more even; a good part of the way from Albany is stony, and hence there are more walls; in many places the stones are too large to remove and the smaller ones are piled upon them in heaps. I got up to sit with the driver after breakfast, but was forced in by the sun; it became cloudy, and I mounted again, and remained out till the last four miles when it became much colder and was nearly dark. The two last stages, and one yesterday were twenty miles. Both days have been highly favourable, not meeting dust and what there was carried away by the wind. Arrived at Boston half past eight; could not get tea at this great house--took milk and bread.

SUNDAY, AUGUST 3RD.

Rose before seven; after breakfast read the paper and then set out for Dr. Channing's Chapel. Found that he was at Newport, Rhode Island, during the summer and only preaching occasionally during the winter. His colleague Mr. Gannett was gone to an Ordination at Buffalo. Mr. Furniss of Philadelphia was to preach. I set off to hear Mr. Greenwood at King's Chapel. He read a form of prayer and a stranger preached from Matthew v; but a poor sermon. Mr. G. read the service of the Lord's Supper; after kneeling, he partook of the bread and wine, then distributed the elements to the communicants, all was very earnestly done at the altar. At the door I was glad to see black women permitted. In the afternoon I went to hear a Mr. Lothrop and was again disappointed, but was pleased by a Mr. Young who preached a discourse on "Faith" from John 20 chap. 29 v., mentioned Columbus. Much pleased by a plain and simple address to the Sunday scholars by Mr. Grant. All the three places of worship very nice buildings; the galleries not wide and supported by double pillars, good organ and good singing but not much joined in by the congregation; well attended, but hardly by any poor persons. In the evening went to hear a Mr. Taylor who had been a sailor. His text Exodus v, verse 2.

MONDAY, AUGUST 4TH.

Got up at six and walked through the Mall, and into the State House and returned to breakfast. Met with a plain and respectable Englishman. Called upon Mr. John Lee, a very respectable old gentleman 76 years old, chatted half an hour and agreed to meet again at three. Returned to the Hotel and ordered a gig for Mount Vernon Church. It came without driver and I had to drive and thread my way through the city. Passed over Cambridge 7810 feet long, walked up and down the cemetery which is superior in locality to Pere la Chaise at Paris, but has not the commanding view. In one part a great many beautiful flowers. The monuments have usually the family name and the Christian name on another side of the obelisk; a truly melancholy walk; a beautiful monument to the memory of Spurzheim[24]. I allowed the horse to have his own way back and he brought me at once near the hotel. At three I called upon Mr. Lee and we had a delightful walk to the wharf and stores; a magnificent range of buildings. Saw a contrivance for hauling ships to be repaired; the machinery turned by horses. Passed over a long wooden bridge to Bunker Hill; from the Monument[25], partly built, we had a fine view of the town, and returned over another bridge. Invited to take tea with Mr. Lee, but excused myself on account of writing a letter to Mr. B. on which I was engaged all evening. Left it in the care of Mrs. Livingstone.

TUESDAY, AUGUST 5TH.

Rose before six, got café au lait at my request. Found the Lowell stage would soon be here; though a mail coach it goes up and down collecting passengers; this enabled me to see more of the town; more than an hour in getting out of it. Took a seat with the driver and though a very hot day found a breeze when in motion; the last fourteen miles, partly a sandy road, we had six horses. Saw three hop plantations; arrived at Lowell at eleven; took my return at two. Went straight to the carpet manufactory but found strangers not admitted; at length I was introduced to the manager, a Scotchman, upon my assuring him that I was in no way connected with such business he took me through the spinning and weaving rooms; a beautiful shearing machine, also the winding effected the same way, the carpets woven by cards as the bed quilts in England; the Brussels from bobbins with weights attached to each thread and tumbling over wires introduced. The rugs done by locks of coloured thread tied into the warp, and then hemp or wadding driven up by the lathe. So extremely hot that I remained in the first shade I came to till near two o'clock. Very many handsome-sized cotton factories, the machinery all turned by the river Merrimack. Work begins at five, then 1/2 hour for breakfast, 3/4 of an hour for dinner, stopping at seven, making 12-3/4 hours each day, and Saturdays the same; the boys and men well dressed, the girls and women in neat gowns and hoods. The bells larger and of different tones as if for worship. The coach promised for two, did not arrive so I came off in another and got to Boston at half past seven. Paid for fare both ways 2-1/2 dollars. This has been one of the most disagreeable hot dusty days I have experienced. Found a letter this morning from James Dean.

WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 6TH.

Rose a little before 6, took a glass of milk, walked to the bath; found it a dirty poor concern, not more than half a yard deep as the tide was out. Called at Mr. Lee's, found his son from England who was kind enough to walk with me in the town. We went off to the Athenaeum which is well stored with books. Saw the English Statutes presented by the British Government; then into the News Room at the Exchange; then to the dry dock, a substantial handsome dock; then to the machine shop where they were making blocks, etc. Saw a large ship the _Columbus_ on the stocks, also the _Constitution_[26] with Jackson's head cut off; then to the prison where they are occupied in masonry, shoe-making, tailoring, brush-making and cabinet work; the prisoners are not suffered to speak; and they eat their food in their cells. Dined with Mr. Lee: delicious lemonade: several dined within, supposed boarders. Set off to Nahant at 3; a beautiful sail among the numerous islands, saw ten seals on a sandbank. Arrived at 4-1/2, a bold rocky coast; the water dashing between the cliffs. A dispute with another steamer, ours turned about to sternward to get a landing by running between, but the other shied off and prevented a collision. Got back half past seven; a beautiful vine (Isabella) only six years planted and many hundred of branches. Also a Black Hamburgh two years planted and bearing. Took leave of this interesting family, particularly the old gentleman, 76 years of age and quite cheerful; the son resides at Birmingham and I may see him again. On getting to Tremont House I asked for a glass of milk, but was disappointed, it having been drank up. Got a letter from Mr. Lee to Dr. Channing; after getting to bed the fire bells began ringing all over the city.

THURSDAY, AUGUST 7TH.

Rose at five; at breakfast, beefsteak but no milk, so I took black tea cooled down, and diluted by iced water. Another fine morning; mounted the roof of the coach, nearly half way, but it was so warm that I went within. The road very dusty but luckily the wind was favourable; the land poor and stony, good fences on each side of the road; several small factories on the way. Pawtucket an active pleasant town. Arrived in Providence at twelve. Went in the coach to the steamboat, returned to Franklin Hotel; set off to inquire for the Cunliffes. Walked up after dinner; learned that Joseph resided 17 miles off but that he was in town; could not meet with him. William lives about five miles off, and I should have gone to see him but it was so excessively hot that I durst not venture. Bought a pair of cotton stockings for 12 cents, put them on immediately; had another wash, found general perspiration excepting my feet which at some time would have been alarming; lay comfortably on the sofa, fell asleep till six; drank two cups of tea and two glasses of milk with a quantity of huckleberries. Some interesting Jacksonian discussion introduced by one of the gentlemen to the News Room. Took a pleasant walk, much cooler; generally admitted to have been the hottest day they have had; walked along the river, a great number of boys bathing, jumping head foremost from a raft covered with shingles. Found a steamboat leaves every morning for Newport, swallowed another glass of milk and went to bed at nine. The cars eight yards long.

FRIDAY, AUGUST 8TH.

Rose soon after six; walked through the market and up to the mill, whence I had a good view of the hill. Walked into a new chapel building for the Academy. Breakfast at half past seven: on further enquiry for William Cunliffe, a man with a small wagon said he was going that way if I could wait half an hour. Whilst waiting at a store, I saw a curious fly trap consisting of two thin boards with hinges, the inside lined with treacle then suddenly pressed together. Got out of the wagon and walked about a mile, found William and his son George; I was known by the latter but not by his father; walked into the house just by, took some cider then walked into the mill; found the machinery good, about 100 pieces turned out weekly. Then went and bathed, most delightfully warm; then dined on salt beef; took a walk over a beautiful ridge, eating huckleberries and blackberries. Got into William's chariot and drove to his daughter living near by. She was gone into the wood but was sent for, and I saw four generations. The daughter very kindly enquired after my mother; they pressed me to stop for tea, but we drove on and just got into Providence before dark. Could not feel easy to leave without seeing Joseph, so fixed to take a gig and George was to go with me. Walked to the Newport steamboat and found it sailing at 7 on the Sunday morning. W. Cunliffe looking better and much lustier; seems very well off and happy with his family. Makes 2000 dollars clear profit.

SATURDAY, AUGUST 9TH.

Rose at six. Found G. C. waiting with a horse and gig (to go to visit Joseph); set off 1/4 before seven, arrived soon after 10, above 18 miles: some parts sandy. A neat looking mill. I was quite unknown to G.'s wife and sister, but they were very glad to see me; and spoke much of my father. Joseph came soon after, looking old and quiet, but did not know me and seemed less affected. Walked through the mill which I fear is not doing much good; it is leased, and 2/3rds of the machinery is George's; it is not filled with looms and is short of water; also there is the expense of a manager which should be done by the sons. Poor quiet Joseph should have taken his brother's advice, put his money out to interest and with two houses at Providence he might have been comfortable. Five children, all at home. Left at three and called at a cotton mill about three miles off, and found John Makinson, Noah's eldest son, superintendent, married about a year ago to a pleasant sort of girl, that had worked with and known the family; the house well furnished; she set to and baked bread for tea, this caused us to be later than we intended. Was glad to learn that his mother was still living though she had lately had another stroke. Told that John and Ann the two oldest had not behaved so well to their parents, but was pleased to find a change in John's views. The last hour was driven in the dark, thereby reminding me of my late dear father, but the horse was a very good one and arrived safe. Found George's father had been waiting some time, paid 3-1/2 dollars. Bought two other pairs of socks. G. C.'s wife not well, and out of spirits; she seems aware that the concern is not doing well. Saw a snake crossing the road.

SUNDAY, AUGUST 10TH.

Rose before six. Put on my best that I might lose no time in dressing at Newport. A good deal of rain in the night. Taken in a coach to the steamboat. Charged 25 cents for about 100 yards. The weather cleared up and I had a pleasant sail. Found that Dr. Channing resided about five miles from Newport, and was known by everybody. Met the Boston and New York steamer. Stopped at the Eagle Hotel, did not like the old gruff fellow at the hotel, he could not let me have a room but only a bed with five others in the room; this I refused, and was told of another with three beds, but only two likely to be occupied; I was forced to take this, and then set off in quest of an Unitarian chapel. At length one was pointed out, on coming out I enquired the name of the preacher. A stranger from North Carolina; asked if any other Unitarian place of worship; he said this was not Unitarian but Baptist. I said it was Unitarian preaching whatever named. I entered a very neat place and heard part of a sermon by a smart young preacher. This proved Episcopalian; on returning to the Eagle was shown into a very small room with five beds. This I refused and was then shown the other with three. I asked if there was any Unitarian place of worship. I was told not, and found it to be the case. The doctor will hardly be able to make amends for this miserable place. Just before dinner I met with a gentleman I had seen at Saratoga, and took a walk with him. After dinner we went to hear a Presbyterian who preached from John viii, v. 20; the congregation numerous, and singing was congregational, and as usual there was a large proportion of females. Then walked about a mile to a nice little bay where some boys were bathing; I also could not resist, notwithstanding the sharks; the waves were large and the shore sandy; I had a pleasant bathe. After tea we went to an Episcopalian Church, very full, but with 10 women to one man; should have expected their sweethearts would have been numerous. A young man preached, but not with much ability.

MONDAY, AUGUST 11TH.

Rose at half past five, having slept better than I expected; all the three beds were occupied, and mine was not only small, but resting upon four sticks, and was so built that my head could touch the sloping ceiling from one part. A delightful morning; no letter at the Post Office. Three spitting boxes in the bar 16" × 24". Set off to visit Dr. Channing[27] at Gibson by the Boston stage; surprised to drive up to the house and greatly disappointed to find the Doctor leaving home by the same stage. I had only just time to give him the letter from Mr. Lee and shake hands with him. I took a walk into the garden then stepped into the house, introduced myself to the lady who proved to be Mrs. Channing and sat some time. Then took a walk into the adjoining wood; met with a stout good-looking youth, asked what relation the doctor was to him, and was told his father, and that he had a sister older, who had gone with his father; expected them to stay a fortnight. Saw a curious bee-hive, and walked again into the house; learned that the Dr. was generally in better health, that he had purposed preaching every other Sunday at Portsmouth, but yesterday had found himself unable, which I had seen noted in the Newport paper; he was engaged about six hours daily at his studies and often a good deal tired. Paid to Dr. C. and back, 75 cents. Left Newport at half past two, fare 5 dollars; at six a dense fog, so that they had to keep sounding and frequently stopped the engines. Took coffee and fish, etc., with about 200 people; walked again some time on deck, still very hazy, so that I might as well go to bed. A gentleman told me of a decent berth at the extreme stern and I soon took possession. In some parts the sea was smooth, then boiling, also large waves.

TUESDAY, AUGUST 12TH.

Awoke several times, and got up at half past five. Found all my clothes quite damp, excepting my trousers which I had placed in my berth, and gave coat, waistcoat and shirt to be dried. Got down my portmanteau and put on other things. Went on deck at six, found we were nearly 30 miles from New York; after some time I went down and found my clothes dry and put on the shirt. On coming up we were passing Hell Gate[28], a very narrow and rocky passage. Some good country houses: a large new jail. A fine view of the city and shipping; every now and then a jutting wharf about the length of a ship. Arrived at New York at eight; in walking to the Post Office with Mrs. Channing's letter, I met with Thomas Dean, and got my two letters from Mr. Baker and C. D. Found J. Dean looking thinner. We walked through some auction stores to J. Hulme's son-in-law; he keeps a very large Book-Stall; hence I entered an auction of watches, afterwards of wine, etc.; then to the Exchange, but soon got tired of standing to read the papers. Read over again my letters; devoured two peaches; was charged 3_d._ T. D. kindly invited me to his house; had purchased one for 11,000 dollars; would have given 12 as he considered it worth 13 or 14 thousand dollars. Found a splendid house; a black waiter; dined in the basement storey; silver forks. James drove me out in a phaeton; called for my portmanteau, and then took me to another part of the city; returned to tea, afterwards went to Niblos Gardens. Had dinner and soon after getting home there was thunder and some rain. Mrs. D. much as when in England, their little girl much indulged; did not see the infant.

WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 13TH.

Rose at five, set off for Rockaway bathing place. The horse sadly infested with flies which made it bleed in many places. Passed a large swamp, and here first met with that troublesome insect the mosquito. Arrived at 10; a very large hotel containing 186 rooms. Sat down and read with much pleasure the remains of a Bolton Chronicle. Set off to bathe; the sand beautifully white, the breakers very large in consequence of the thunder and wind last night. Could hardly swim but amused myself in standing against the breakers. Troubled with mosquitoes and also a little pain in my ear, which had continued a day or two and prevented me from going on my journey. At half past two music announced dinner, the ladies were accompanied by the gentlemen. Found our places at the entrance into the room being the last comers. A large bill of fare particularly of wines; we had a bottle of claret and I ate a head of corn, and relished it better than before. About 160 persons. After dinner we had a pleasant ramble down the shore talking over old matters at home. Returned to tea, again serenaded by music; then read from English papers; walked in to see them dance: went to bed at half past nine. At noon on the stage coming up one of the horses fell down, overdone with fatigue and heat; got up and fell down several times and died in about half an hour. A limit to their sufferings. Our room No. 155.

THURSDAY, AUGUST 14TH.

Rose at five; a pleasant morning; found the breakers still more than I expected. On the road to Jamaica terribly vexed by mosquitoes; stockings coloured with blood. Several farms for sale; overstocked I guessed with these terrible insects. Got breakfast near Jamaica. Washed and took a little refreshment. Set off in one of the stages and arrived at New York a little before 12; called on R. Crook but did not meet with him. Walked into Broadway was asked 2/7 for cotton gloves; purchased a book of psalm-tunes for 1 dollar. Went to see the great hotel building in Broadway; about 100 men at work, most of them Irish. Went with J. D. through the register office where an account is kept of all the titles (to estates?) and mortgages. Rode to dinner in one of the stages, the usual charge 6_d._ but a quantity of tickets may be purchased at half price. The distance of the stage about two miles; experienced great inconvenience from the excessive itching occasioned by the mosquito bites in the morning. After dinner we set out to see James's horse; found it not well and no wonder, the stable in a cellar; the stalls narrow; a suffocating spot; then walked across what is called East River to see the dry docks; the ships are placed upon a frame, and then by means of an endless chain wound up on to the shore to be repaired. The tides here seldom vary more than three or four feet; on our return found Jackson and his friend Ingham; they stopped two hours laughing and talking all the time.

FRIDAY, AUGUST 15TH.

Got up at half past six; a good night with only one scratch, though a good deal of inflammation most of the morning. After breakfast played some of the psalm tunes. At 9 set off with J. D. to the end of the island, a very pleasant drive and beautiful opening into the Hudson. Bathed in a rather muddy creek. Pulled an apple on going which we liked, so on returning got a further supply. Some men fishing and others gathering oysters. Got a comfortable dinner; then drove on the other side towards Harlem a fine spacious road.