Chapter IV: Part 4

Many trotters in their sulkies and others driving very fast. Appearance of a storm. Only charged 2 dollars for the horse. Played several psalm tunes. Engaged a vehicle to take me to the steam boat in the morning. Went sadly to bed. Packed up the needful; besides the mosquitoes, there was a little grey insect like a louse that bit very sharply; still itching and swelled from the mosquitoes.

SATURDAY, AUGUST 16TH.

Rose 1/4 before 5; found breakfast not out; got coffee; the wagon not coming. James Dean set off to meet the man; the portmanteau was placed on; drove rapidly down just in time. Got on board the _North America_, found many hundreds of passengers. Charged to Albany only 50 cents just what I was to pay for being brought to the steamer; an immense steamer, the Captain said 400 or 500 passengers; a much smaller number than usual. A quick way of putting out and taking in passengers: the boat is lowered, they take a long rope and steer to the landing-place, then haul in towards the steamer which scarcely stops. The rope is attached to the end of the helm, which is 4 or 5 yards wide and gives great power, and the helm is always placed in the fore part of the vessel. Saw some fish (sturgeons) jump a yard out of the water.

A piano and cradle on board. Arrived at Catskill[29] half past three; got some excellent cider and bread and butter. Set off to the mountain 1/4 past 4; a chaise near being upset. Fare 1 dollar said to be 13 miles; then a turnpike gate, and arrived at the summit at 1/4 past 8; having been in four hours in one part alternately hot and in another piercingly cold. A beautiful moonlight night; the Hudson River visible; very cold so that we sat round the fire as if it were Christmas.

SUNDAY, AUGUST 17TH.

Rose at half past six, though having rested very ill. In the middle of the night in consequence of the earache and not sleeping, went to the top of the house, and had a sublime view; we appeared to be in the midst of pine trees; the road looked quite narrow; the valley studded with fields and forests; clouds scattered here and there, and the lake glittering in the distance closing up with mountains; on the other side mountains with pines covered to the summit. During the day I had a delightful walk with a very intelligent Frenchman from Washington, to the falls, which are stupendous but short of water; the rock seems to project more than Niagara; the reason is because the upper stratum is hard and the lower soft and crumbling; then walked to the upper part of the mountain above the hotel, and then had decidedly the most magnificent view I ever saw in my life; besides these wonderful prospects there is a constant delightful breeze, so that if I had time and friends I could pass a week very well.

I consented to defer going till four, as only another person was going and he was willing to wait. It began to rain and felt cold like our English summers, and it was very well we got the views this morning, as soon after twelve the rain came on, which determined me to take the stage. Paid 3 dollars to Delhi, 65 miles, 1/2 a dollar for tea and bed. Eleven in the stage and all covered up, but my side. Had some pleasant chat with the people, more particularly an Englishman who had been several years in France. Met again my French friend. Went to bed at 8; heavy rain.

MONDAY, AUGUST 18TH.

Called up at half past one; raining very hard; only five in the stage; by slipping across got a good place; left at half past two. At five at Cairo, next stage. Ascending the mountain I got up with the driver; fair, and a very extensive view up the valley; several houses on the table part of the mountain.

Got to Wareham 1/4 before 9. Washed and shaved by borrowed tackle. A delightful drive down the mountain; many turns in the road diversifying the view; many pines dying, large tanneries. Morrisville, the last four miles rough road; got to Hobart 10 minutes after 2, most of the last 12 miles rough road; a good many saw mills on the way; the turnpike gates, a ladder let down from the house hardly sufficiently to leave head room. Not much regularity in conveying the mail owing to uncertain state of the roads. Further delay caused by not always dining at the same place. At Bloomville at 1/4 past 4; the last seven miles the valley has been widening. Arrived at Delhi 1/4 before 6. Took my place on to Green; paid 2 dollars 38 cents. Immediately passed over a considerable mountain; a very rough road and a lame horse. Got a basin of milk and a slice of bread which proved a good supper. On setting out I took my seat on the top, but was told by the driver that he had another going with him, but I did not yield, and he put a negro to drive both me and the horses, but it did not do. I was glad to have an opportunity of showing the Americans that I made no distinction.

TUESDAY, AUGUST 19TH.

Passed a very restless night in the coach. At Bainbridge made to wait nearly an hour, then to collect 4 ladies and two men, so that the stage was considered quite full. After breakfast paid 30 cents, also 75 cents for Binghampton on my way to Montrose; could not have a seat by the driver. Found a very intelligent American, he depicts divisions amongst themselves chiefly caused by the ignorant and immoral, especially the Irish; arrived at half past eleven. Paid a dollar to Montrose and set off at once; the morning and scenery delightful, and the company made me not think of sleeping. Left Binghampton at one. Crickets chirping almost at the top of the Catskill Mountains. The vehicle from Binghampton a clumsy concern, but as there was only a boy besides myself I had control over it, as if it were my own though carrying the mail. I walked up the steepest parts and now and then had a chat with the settlers. Partook of some nice blackberries, got to Montrose at 8; very fair travelling considering the mountainous paths we had come over. Find Pike 20 miles off and no stage till the day after to-morrow, so that I might as well have remained at Binghampton another day, but unless there be something interesting, I always find myself most happy when on the wing bringing me nearer home; got tea, and to bed at half past eight, in hopes of getting up the rest I had lost the two and may be the three last nights. Put away the wool from my sore.

WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 20TH.

Rose soon after seven; found no arrangements made for getting me on to Pike; resolved to go immediately in some way. Informed of a person going 13 miles on the road. At ten he came and a very sensible man I found him; said the bank had registered certain wealthy individuals improperly, and therefore the charter had been refused; this more than the removal of the deposits had injured the credit and business of the country; admitted that there was too much paper money but thought it should have been lessened gradually; Hindle & Co. should have been called to account. The President had no right to renew the deposits without consent of the Senate, and hence their displeasure; the Representatives support him on account of popularity. A most interesting account of his father who had lived 50 years in one house and unwilling to sleep from home. Had 15 children, 8 still living. At the end of 13 miles Hitchcock's saw-mill; he took me to a farmer who agreed to go on with me about 8 miles further; after travelling some time I stepped out to enquire at a house on the road side for Noah Makinson. "He lives here," I was told. Immediately Noah appeared looking much thinner and older; did not know me. One of the daughters set off to fetch her mother; in less than two hours she came with her two daughters; on entering she gazed a long time, said she did not know me, and then cried out "Is it Robert?" and almost fainted; she suffered from a difficulty of breathing but soon was better, and we chatted away the evening. A sheep was killed.

THURSDAY, AUGUST 21ST.

Rose at seven. Found Alice better than I expected considering the hurry and fatigue of yesterday, though thin and weak she has much of her old features, not so deaf as I expected; sits a good deal, often smiling. An American breakfast; coffee, beef steaks, eggs, tart and cakes like crumpet, made from buck wheat. The house not large but comfortable; a very large new barn with shippen, stable and granary and a good stock of hay. Had agreed for the same with a neighbour on the following terms, to make the hay and have one half. The house pleasantly situated on the slope of a hill on a good road; nearly 80 acres 30 chains on each side of the road; a good spring of water near the house; seven cows, two horses, pigs, geese and poultry and guinea-hens. The breakfast consists of coffee, bread and butter, eggs, beef or mutton with buck wheat cakes resembling crumpets also blackberry pies and potatoes; nearly the same at dinner, and again at supper with tea. Make their own sugar from the maple; a hole is bored into the trees; a chip placed below to guide the sap into a tub; this is done with about a hundred trees at the beginning of April; a fire place is made in the woods and the pans are hung over by means of long wooden hooks, and the sap is boiled down into sugar, a supply for the year. They make their own candles and soap, the latter from the wood ashes. Went to see many people who appear very comfortably settled. Noah surprised the family by consenting to go with us.

FRIDAY, AUGUST 22ND.

John is married and settled in Rhode Island: Ann a nice spirited girl employed in tailoring and has seen a good deal of society. Mary a most cheerful and pleasing young woman married to a young man Aery Gridley, a carpenter and also farmer, a steady active young man not too good for her. James assists his father but prefers the joiner's business; Hannah rather lusty, does a good deal in the house and also assists Ann; Martha the youngest, her spine injured in her youth, a very sly little person and says very droll things. Noah often affected when talking of old friends in England; related some grievances of the family not treating him with respect, particularly his two sons. The daughters too fond of visiting and dressing. This evening a neighbour's dog catches an animal called a woodchuck somewhat resembling a beaver; it is considered good food and indeed is to be prepared for dinner. Mary and her husband came about eight and returned about half past ten. Besides woodchucks they eat the black and grey squirrels, the yellow and striped are not liked; both are killed because they devour the grain, a large cat frequently catches them. Two horses are great favourites with all the family, the best was hurt last Christmas by a cow. They have two waggons.

SATURDAY, AUGUST 23RD.

The breakfast profuse as usual. Went to watch logs being sawn to be burned, chiefly hemlock, a species of pine; other sorts brought home for fires; went out to gather blackberries; all the neighbours very sociable and kind, particularly attentive to Alice when poorly. Nothing like stealing is known; most of the houses without a lock or bolt. Alice was first ill at the end of January, has had difficulty of breathing, but was better; at the end of April had a sort of fit that caused her to be insensible for some time; in June after severe coughing she commenced spitting blood that continued three weeks; violent palpitations of the heart, greatly relieved by digitalis that she still takes; perspires a good deal and one eye is still weaker than the other and is often running; so ill was she that her burial suit was prepared. The battlements of bridges generally coped with wood.

SUNDAY, AUGUST 24TH.

Got both horses to the waggon, and all but the two old folks set off to the Meeting House about 6 miles; rather late, found a great many other horses and waggons, also one or two better looking carriages or as we should say phaetons; there is no shed as in some places so that in winter or wet weather the horses must suffer terribly. The Minister Samuel Henderson, an Irishman, was just beginning the sermon; very orthodoxical and loud; rapped the Universalists as relying upon the mercy of God and forgetting His justice. The singing, German hymns, chiefly done by the choir. After service notice was given of the Lord's Supper, and those in the centre were requested to go to the sides to make room for the communicants; after the bread was broken it was handed to the deacons, then all arose and a prayer was delivered, the same with the wine. An urgent request that they would not bring the service into disgrace by any immoral conduct; nearly 2 when finished, therefore no service in the afternoon and went and dined at Mary's, had tea, pies, cakes and cucumbers; then a pleasant chat afterwards and a walk through the orchard; not much fruit in consequence of snow and ice on the 15th of May. On getting back, several neighbours came to sit with us and we chatted till near ten. Alice retired earlier.

MONDAY, AUGUST 25TH.

After breakfast went with James and Ann to Pike. Rode on the back of the waggon. A pleasant walk; entered one of the stores filled as usual with a great quantity of articles. Walked back with Ann who said a good deal about her father's temper. I admitted that he was often unreasonable, but as he intended the best they should bear up with it, as it might be possible that a time would come when such conduct would prove the most satisfactory. Ann said her mother was quite the contrary, pleased to see them get on and wished them to have a little company; was told that there were very few round about but what were more or less in their debt, they owed nothing; mentioned a person who has had 300 dollars of Mary's, and now had 50 belonging to Ann for which they got interest; Ann the prettiest, Mary pleasing and cheerful, Hannah lusty and good tempered, Martha a most droll piece; James appears well disposed but cannot get on with his father; this the case with one brother John but he has left home. Being the last night we had a family chat.

TUESDAY, AUGUST 26TH.

In the morning Mary came to see me off. All the family seemed in sorrow at the thought of my going; continually finding something to send; opened my portmanteau two or three times. Half past eleven brought the stage and I was forced to take my leave, all of us greatly affected, particularly Alice (the mother) and I, that could never expect to see each other again. I shook hands with each one and said to them "God bless you" and then hurried out of the house. Mary came on part of the way. Got to Orrell 1/4 past 1 to await the mail from Oswego; proceeded in 20 minutes; arrived at Towanda half past four; the last 8 miles very disagreeable, warm and dusty. Paid 87-1/2 cents. Met with Mr. Overton an English gentleman who said he would call upon me. He did so, took me to his house, gave me wine then took me to another Englishman Mr. Wandsey a hearer of Dr. Rees. His sister was to accompany Miss Martineau. Paid fare to Berwick 3-1/2 dollars, and 31 cents for tea and bed. Very glad to find such favourable accounts of Mr. Kay and his family. All along the locusts had been destroyed.

WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 27TH.

Left Towanda 1/4 before six, a misty morning; the road lined with walnut and oak trees and the wild vine; only myself in the stage. Enquired if no mistakes in the charge for bed and tea, said it was the usual charge. Crossed over the Sugar Mountain so called because of so many maples; one part of the walk very disagreeable through ferns and over old trees and all this before breakfast. Arrived at Cherrytown village half past one, without any food for man or beast since setting out, luckily I got a draught of milk; the passengers three young people who had been at a wedding. Had a most excellent breakfast and dinner, good coffee all for 25 cents. This stage 4 horses 21 miles, six times a week, one of the horses has done it 9 years. Not much of a prospect from the summit on account of the trees. A Northumbrian living at the top said America was the place for a poor man; 5 or 6 families came out before him, and only one had failed; and he had property. In some parts ascending the mountain the very worst road I have seen, one of the poor horses lost a shoe, but could have no help till we got to the end, 21 miles: arrived soon after eight, the horse being much less lame than could have been expected. At Columbus our crazy coach had to be girded as it had to go over a very dangerous ridge. We got safe to Berwick at 1/2 past 12, got coffee 25 cents; passage 1-3/4 dollars.

THURSDAY, AUGUST 28TH.

A pleasant ride along the canal and the Susquehanna, free from dust. Got to Northumberland before 10. Large frogs at one part in the canal. Called on Mr. Kay, he had had an illness which prostrated him much and been unable to preach during that time. Had a long and interesting chat with the family, 4 sons and 4 daughters, the eldest are smart girls, one about 24, the other 30, the youngest 16. Dined with them in a very pleasant family way, roasted mutton and Yorkshire pudding. Mrs. K. gave me a note to Dr. Priestley's[30] grandson at the Bank, and desired me to ask him to tea. Spent the evening at the Kay's, very nice people, the second daughter very pleasing and difficult to leave, perhaps would have been impossible in a short time. Mr. Priestley joined us.

FRIDAY, AUGUST 29TH.

Met the gentleman I had seen at Montrose. Paid for bed and breakfast, good coffee, 37-1/2 cents, and 2-1/2 dollars to Pottsville. Walked with Mr. Priestley to his grandfather's grave and also to the house where he died; a beautiful willow planted by the doctor. Spent an hour with Mr. Kay. Left Northumberland at 10, changed horses after 13-1/2 miles. A most delightful morning.

SATURDAY, AUGUST 30TH.

Called at four. Took up a gentleman who proved to be an English Catholic priest, very intelligent and pleasant. Soon got on the railway, a pleasant ride through the forest, got a glass of milk; breakfasted at Tuscarora, 25 cents. Passed Tamaqua, where a Catholic chapel had lately been erected; my companion the minister. Travelled through a narrow path covered with brushwood; came to the summit where an immense mass of coal is worked like an open stone quarry; the coal is taken away on rails to Mauch Chunk and then by canal to Philadelphia, etc., etc. The waggon and cars are let down by one man who can move a drag upon each by means of a connecting rope, and the mules also ride down to draw up the empty waggons. Descended in 45 minutes 40 miles. Mauch Chunk most romantically situated at the foot of the mountains almost overhanging the town. Left my friend the priest. Arrived at Lehigh Gap 1/4 past 2, an interesting drive, changing sides with the canal and river. One of the old greys like that yesterday, made a few false steps. We now left the canal and river; a surly driver, near losing my coat; some walnuts; a good deal of Dutch spoken in this neighbourhood. Arrived at Easton 1/4 past seven. Finding no direct conveyance to Trenton and that the fare to Philadelphia is only one dollar, I have agreed to go to Philadelphia. Paid for supper and bed 50 cents. Got to bed at 8.

SUNDAY, AUGUST 31ST.

Called at half past three; left at four; passed over a bridge of wood suspended by iron chains, took a seat with the driver; a little drizzling rain; the button trees[31] again; apples more plentiful; the drive beautiful along the river (Delaware), high hills on each side; the woods a little tinted; some thorn hedges; a good many walnut trees. Had coffee and pancakes, paid 30 cents. The land generally better cleared and the houses more substantially built. Passed a funeral of a woman who burned herself to death yesterday by smoking. A long range of stabling shut up, and the hotel changed into a private house. The driver said these canals and railways would be the ruin of the country. Most beautiful weeping willows; some of the slender branches hanging down 5 or 6 feet. Passed the race course or rather trotting course; this is generally run by drawing a light high-wheeled sulky. Stopped at the White Swan Hotel, Philadelphia, where the coach stopt; found it to be a good inn but rather too far from the Exchange, etc. After washing and changing my dress I called upon the Masons to know about worship in the evening; went and heard a most excellent sermon by Mr. Furness: Heb. 12 and 2 verse, "Look to Him." He mentioned the general desire to do well but the difficulty of performance, the character of Christ the most influential; mentioned the perplexity attending the belief in His two natures.

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 1ST.

Returned early to bed, and this morning found heavy rain; how extremely fortunate that I have completed my tour in such brilliant weather, not having had occasion for an umbrella since leaving Philadelphia. Borrowed an old ragged umbrella and called at Mr. Hulme's, found Mr. H. gone to N.Y. and also Mr. Rollanson gone from home. Kindly invited to stop with Mr. H. during my stay at Philadelphia. Called upon Mr. Kay's son; found him in a large book store; then called upon Mr. Scholfield but not seeing him promised to call at three. Walked to the Exchange and read the English papers, after dinner went and sat three hours with Mr. Scholfield; found him less altered than most of my old acquaintances, he lives with his daughter who is married to a Londoner, named Patten, and carries on the stay or corset business. Mr. S. a very sensible man greatly opposed to Jackson; has some little municipal office; well acquainted with the Crooks, Mrs. Marsden, and others. Had tea with the Masons, and had a good deal of talk about old matters in England. Servetus, a very respectable young man carrying on an extensive blacking trade; the sister a very steady girl had lived some time with Mr. Furness. The old man as eccentric as ever, his wife looking old but cheerful.

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 2ND.

Called at Kay's book store and selected a few books to send to N. M. Then called again upon Ridings; after dinner walked to the wharf and saw a steamer going to N.Y. Observed a good many persons fishing without much success; then to the Exchange news room. Read the account of Mrs. Hardcastle's death, G. Crompton's and M. Houghton's marriage, and Mr. Shepherd made into a Doctor. Then strolled past the Mansion House into Walnut Street and Chesnut Street. Took tea at Mr. Hulme's, found a younger son who is preparing to practise medicine, also Francis Taylor on his way to N.Y. to see his mother. Met Mr. Rollanson; the younger brother gone to Louisville. Had some nice peaches and melon at supper. Invited to dinner to-morrow which I could not refuse. After the rain the streets, particularly the footpaths and white marble steps appear remarkably clean. Mr. Scholfield says there is a person who has ten thousand peach trees in one orchard, and 4 such orchards.

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 3RD.

Called at Mr. Kay's printing place and found a son of J. Haslam's. Then called upon the father who is become very gray; the son also is turning gray; he was settled many years at a college at Charleston advantageously, but was obliged to give up on account of health; he has now a small school which is on the increase; a good apparatus; his mother well acquainted with uncle Thomas's wife, and his father a companion of my uncles and father. Mr. Scholfield called this morning to say that he expected Mr. John Wood at his house to meet me. Selected some more books for N. M.'s family and wrote two letters to N. M., and his daughter Mary. At two dined at Mr. Hulme's, met another son of Dr. Taylor's employed at a manufactory. After dinner walked to a private museum; a good collection of birds, shells, etc., also some fine works on natural history with beautiful coloured plates; an immense collection of specimens of plants bequeathed to the institution. A skeleton riding on horseback made ludicrous by a spider's web resembling a bridle. Thence we visited Mr. Pierpoint's garden. Took tea at Mr. Scholfield's but did not see Mr. Wood. Then set off to an election meeting and heard some good speaking; a little monkey not 8 years old smoking a cigar. An attempt to disturb the meeting by a cry of fire and then the engines, but it did not take. Found at the hotel, Ridings, Haslam, Mason, J. Hodkinson also the Newcastle gentleman.

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 4TH.

Walked through the market though not market day, a large supply of everything, the butchers in clean shirts and some with smart collars; vegetables of every form and colour, at least ten cart loads of melons six to twenty four inches long. Called upon Mrs. Hughes once Miss Robson, talked about Mrs. Kay, Jeffery Smith, Alice Mason and Esther Scholes, then to the book sale confined to the trade; told young Frank Taylor he would soon make his fortune and then come and spend it in England. On mentioning my ignorance about quills, F. T. said it was a mysterious business and booksellers were often deceived; the same with sealing wax till it was tried. F. T. desired me to send C. D. over and he would show him 10,000 different insects every year. Called again upon the Haslams and found myself invited to spend the evening at Mr. Vaughan's. Walked through the rooms, sat in Dr. Franklin's chair and also that of Columbus. Invited to breakfast with Mr. V., asked whether tea or coffee; returned, and spent the evening with the Haslams. Called again at Mr. Hulme's but Mr. H. had not returned from N.Y. Urged very much to write on my arrival. Mrs. H. desires me to say at the Dean's foundry, that her son was comfortably settled upon 400 acres of land in Canada; and had children.

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5TH.

Called upon J. Scholfield on my way to Mr. Vaughan's; found Mr. V. busy writing, spent upwards of an hour most delightfully with Mr. V. and his old acquaintance Mr. De Pontean. I said to the old gentleman they seemed to know each other, he replied, "We have been 50 years trying to find out each other." Walked to see Dr. Franklin's grave; by means of a chair I scrambled up the wall and read as follows:

Benjamin and } Deborah } Franklin.

Found a blind school to be a favourite object with Mr. V., presented ten dollars. Found Mr. Scholfield at the hotel with several pamphlets. He and his son-in-law Patten, and young Moss accompanied me to the steamer. Old Mr. V. met me there and also young Hodkinson. Found it necessary to tear myself away from Philadelphia as the longer I stayed the more difficulty in getting away. Left at 10-1/2, got to Trenton about two, rained most of the way. Finding no stage to Laurenceville engaged a dearborn[32] or covered gig for another 1/4 dollar. Learned on my way that John was gone from home. Found Mr. and Mrs. Bowker, also a young Rollanson nephew of Mr. J. R. at Philadelphia with W. B. to learn farming. Immediately had coffee, then peaches and melons most of the afternoon, then tea and more fruit. A chat and to bed at half past nine. Slept with young Rollanson.

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 6TH.

Got up soon after six; rested pretty well. Set off to Trenton to market, purchased a basket of peaches for 20 cents. Had some conversation with a lusty ironmonger, etc., then purchased a little gingerbread and two pair neck laces 3/4 dollars. Drove back another way, part of the road through the forest. Ate some more most delicious melons, set off to Laurenceville Post Office, got the American Farmers' monthly publication; then called upon Mr. Phillips, a very sensible pleasant gentleman; also Mrs. P. from Philadelphia. After dinner sat under the shade of the trees near the house chatting about home, then walked into the cornfields. Some corn ten to twenty feet high, with ears 12 to 16 inches, then through the orchard, many of the Newtown Pippins and others equally large, the ground covered with fine apples. Mr. B. plucking one off the trees biting a piece throwing it to the ground. The quantity, size, and quality truly surprising; more like a dream than a reality. Then went to see some plowing, met with a serpent about two feet long that jumped into some water. Mr. B. got a large stick and at length poked it out, the sting quite visible, it coiled itself up for a spring; he struck it and a whole frog was found in its belly undigested and yet it was in pursuit of another. Mr. and Mrs. Green's son and daughter came to spend the evening with us. Mr. G. an old settler, and a Puritan, said a long grace and then we had another melon feast. Mr. B. gave them about a score of very fine ones; left the "Child's own Book."

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 7TH.

Did not rise until after seven; Mr. B. presented me with tips of Indian arrows for Mr. Baker and C. D. After breakfast Mr. B. and I walked out together, visited the family graveyard 5 or 6 of the old settlers, Brearley buried in 1756, about 50 years of age, and younger branches of the family. Partook of some more melons, truly delicious. Set off to Church, found a nice spacious clean place; a poor respectable audience rigged out as Mr. B. said in their best, the singing chiefly managed by one person in the Walmsley tone; as in all other places not much joined in by the congregation; the prayers simple and unobjectionable, but the sermon very poor, ultra orthodox thing, text 8 Romans, first six verses, Original sin, morality, etc. worse than Pike Presbyterianism, and worse than English Calvinism, Redemption by Christ deferred till next Sunday when the Sacrament will be delivered; notice of two new members having been examined and then admitted. Mr. Axton the minister a man about 30 years old, gives notice of a giving day when all kinds of presents are made. Tea, etc., prepared by the young folks, and the young ladies serve it out; only one service. Engaged to visit at Mr. Clarke's whose daughter is engaged to Jonathan Bowker, she is a pleasing unaffected person. On returning from Chapel I expressed a very great wish to see a humming bird. Mr. B. said they were often about some flowers near the pump; just coming to the house I observed one not much larger than a large bee, going into one of the red flowers resembling the honeysuckle.

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8TH.

Got up at five; left Laurenceville about six, Mr. B. engaged in writing letters till three o'clock. Mr. B. mentioned a great desire to assist his brother, said £100 for two or three years would enable him to do so; having such favourable accounts from Mr. Hulme and Mr. Walker I promised to send him that sum. Met the young Taylors on the railway, ate some peaches; offered a loan of £100 to F. Taylor but he thankfully declined. Agreed to meet the younger T. at the steamboat at six the following morning. Walked to F. D.'s warehouse and there found another letter from C. D. All well. Wrote a short letter to C. telling them of my return by the _Hibernia_ on the 10th. Spent the evening very pleasantly with the D.'s. Mrs. D. not very well having been obliged to stop suckling her little one. J. D. charged 62 cents for 100 dollars upon all property.

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9TH.

This morning rose soon after five with the intention of going to Poughkeepsie; but there hardly appeared time to get to the steamboat, and a shower of rain settled the matter. Engaged all forenoon in reading the "Bolton Chronicle," July 5, saw an account of uncle Yates's death. Walked into the town; visited the great book sale, purchased at Carville another copy of the "American Tourist" for 1-1/2 dollars. Called upon Mr. Crook and walked through his warehouse, a large stock of cotton, woollen blankets, counterpanes and stockings. Found R. Crook going by the _Hibernia_; walked with James Dean to the Wharf and took my berth in the _Hibernia_ for Liverpool; found the Captain pleasing but not so experienced as Captain S. K. Took dinner at the Franklin House, roasted turkey, bread and potatoes with some apple pie and a glass of water for 9_d._; then called upon a Mr. Butcher from Sheffield at Mr. Bliss's; took two glassfuls of Madeira, almost tipsy. Bought a razor strop for two dollars; then to J. D. after tea; went to a Mr. Alexander Taylor where Frank was stopping, found him a jovial pleasant man, also Mrs. T. formerly Burton, and sister-in-law to Joseph Wood's wife, and cousin to William R. Crook, like J. D., converted by his wife; so much for Unitarianism.

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10TH.

Got up at five. Jones's phaeton came up soon after, he drove me to the steamer _Erie_, just in time, as usual both boats full; a delightful morning, met several steamboats one towing two boats on each side and one behind. The rocks on the west side very steep and the strata very perpendicular. Paid for passage and breakfast 87-1/2 cents, but unfortunately no milk. About 100 at the first table; saw some sturgeons leap out of the water. The scenery up the Hudson the finest in the neighbourhood of West Point. Very pleasant and quite cool enough. Got to Poughkeepsie at half-past eleven. Found Miss J. and Miss Mary at home in a pleasant house in Union Street, though the scene of the cholera the last two years. After dinner drove through the town to Dr. H.'s garden about four miles; the grounds pretty and the walks delightful along the Hudson. Had another peep at the Hotel on the Catskill Mountain; the Dr. very kind and we spent the evening very pleasantly: Mr. J. looking better than in England and Mary taller, both greatly attached to the old country. Robert is married and living with Mrs. J., and Mrs. R. like all American wives appears delicate. A good deal said against the morals of the poor Americans, no relying on their word, lax habits. Paid for the carriage three dollars.

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 11TH.

Rose at seven. Soon after breakfast I visited the cemetery and copied the lines on John Taylor. The morning cool; after another chat went to the steamer with Hudson; we were too soon but I enjoyed the scenery particularly the ingenious management of a sloop. At 1/4 before 12 observed the two boats sailing nearly together. The smaller got in first but persuaded by Hudson I took the larger the _Champlain_, sailed 5 minutes past 12 racing and betting, as on horses. Paid for passage and dinner 1 dollar. The most romantic part of the Hudson near West Point; one fellow devoured almost more butter at dinner than all Mr. Whitehead's family for a week. Do not observe many gentlemen's seats on the banks of the Hudson on the New York side; the opposite is too rocky and precipitous. Observed a funeral supposed to be a negro, as all the attendants excepting the driver of the hearse were people of colour; two of the first appeared to be ministers, both dressed with white cravats; a number on foot after the body, with two coaches filled mostly with females.

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 12TH.

James Dean set off early to the warehouse. I walked with Thomas who wished me to speak to his brother lest he should indulge too freely in drink. Walked through the fruit market, found it well supplied, then the fish, found many all alive alivo. A cart load of cods weighed by means of a double steel yard, one below and suspended from the other. The cart suspended by a chain fastened to each axle outside the wheel, and the front of the cart and the other wound up by a capstan. The grapes in the market of a poor sort: no wonder that peaches and melons are preferred. Called at Mr. W. and received but poor accounts of Dr. Marsden who has been worse since he left: thought he had liver complaint and he considered his lungs to be affected. Curious screw docks, eight on each side raise the frame on which the ship is floated. After dinner at the Franklin House, James Dean and I set off to H.; took a ride upon the circular railway, watched them play at nine pins, the bowls returned by means of an inclined wooden conductor into which the balls are put by the person who sets up the pins. Afterwards walked along a beautiful shady road with occasionally a glimpse at the Hudson and the beautiful white sails; then across an embankment over a swamp; along a beautiful road and through the grounds and garden of Mr. King, where we had a most charming view of New York, the Hudson, etc., etc. Could not get tea at either hotel till the usual time; got very good coffee near the theatre, and only charged 19 cents each. Went to the theatre; very full; met Webster, he had seen all our passengers but Mr. Grindrod. Mr. Hamilton was about returning by Quebec, Mr. Cayley stopping with his brother at Toronto.

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 13TH.

Called upon R. Wood; met with his wife and two children living in Hebron Street, second floor, 2 rooms connected by folding doors; the one rather smart and the other a kitchen, etc., etc. Bought another copy of Bryant's "Poems" the other given to Mrs. D. Called upon F. Taylor and agreed to call at Carville on Tuesday morning for letters from Mrs. J. Set off to bathe with James, and Thomas and his wife and daughter and a Miss Jones; a pleasant drive along the shore. Inspected the new fort, no guns mounted, more than a mile very heavy and sandy; took dinner; saw a mosquito net. Approaching the town saw a fire. Called at a garden lately owned by a Frenchman; went to see the fire, found it to be the Presbyterian Chapel in Wall Street. Much difficulty in getting through the street in consequence of the pipes, had to move back three times. Hard driving through Broadway; near running over several persons; once between a car and omnibus the former stopping suddenly. A pleasant chat till half past ten. Mrs. Bliss stopped with the children during Mrs. D.'s absence, but was gone home before we returned.

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 14TH.

Set off and heard Mr. Wood; a reasonable sacrifice devoting ourselves at all times to God. A very respectable looking man but short of enunciation. In going met Mr. Theodore Bliss, who informed us of Mrs. B.'s illness; at noon found her worse, the illness to be cholera. Went to the Unitarian Church in Prince's Street, a gentleman from Carolina not very interesting, heard the Communion Service by Mr. W. all extempore; he breaks the bread which is partly cut, and then distributed by two gentlemen. Both churches are handsome and as usual very neat and uniform; good singing. In the evening James Dean and I took tea with young Crook; the "Isabella" vine with plenty of grapes but hardly ripe, also many peaches. Mrs. C. invisible; the child about the same age as J. D.'s; a good many callers; went with one to hear Dr. Hawkes, an eloquent preacher; the sermon was on "Stand forth," a large proportion of females, the contrary in all Unitarian places. Called upon Abraham Taylor, saw Miss T. and a Mr. Armitage; got home about eleven. Mr. T. desired me to tell Major Watkins that if politics drive him out of the country, he would receive him and make him as comfortable as possible. Scarcely one obscene word observed throughout the States, not more than two or three.

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 15TH.

Mrs. Bliss died yesterday at four. Ill little more than 12 hours. Curious that I should have been saying a day or two before, "What a difference if any of us had lost a friend or relation by the cholera." Called upon Dr. Griscome and found him an amusing gentleman; could not find Burnes' Coffee House to see for Cunliffe's letters, nor Bradnor who gave me the stick. A beautiful promenade near the Castle garden; visited the Museum; a large living serpent also an ant hedgehog; a good collection of stuffed birds besides, and also a cosmorama view of different cities, etc., in Europe. Saw the two Woods, one a pianoforte maker and the other a carrier. Went up to Ted's. A suit of black lent me to attend Mrs. Bliss's funeral at four; did not much like the thought of going; apprehensive about Mrs. D. who cannot be persuaded to leave the house; about a dozen attended. Scarves given to the clergyman and doctor, silk gloves to three or four of us. The coffin appeared to be mahogany with a small plate with name, etc., the coffin uncovered and borne to the grave without much order. The service as the Church of England, excepting omitting the chapter from Corinthians. Eight carriages besides the hearse; after interment they separated. Mrs. D. made an effort and came down to tea, and talked over the melancholy affair. Set off after nine to try the American oysters, but did not like them so well as ours, being more insipid. Busy packing up.

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 16TH.

Rose half past six; as usual another brilliant morning; Mrs. D. at breakfast. Ann Butcher, her niece will be with them now that Mrs. Bliss is gone. Called upon Bradnor, had great difficulty in buying another copy of "Boy's Letter Writer." Mr. Theodore Bliss came to T. D.'s warehouse and accompanied us to the steamer, also Webster and R. Wood, and J. and T. Dean, and Abraham Taylor came with us in the steamer. Lunched, left us at one. Left New York at 11. The day truly delightful; only 7 passengers, dined at 4, but little wind and that not favourable; a shoal of porpoises, 6 and 8 close together. Gave T. D.'s servants two dollars. Am much pleased with the Captain, mate and crew, and also the passengers. The steamer left us at 1 and the pilot at half past ten. Paid for washing 17 pieces including two night caps, 85 cents or 2-1/2_d._ each.

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17TH.

Passed the night pretty well, dreaming rather pleasantly. On getting up felt qualmish and took a little coffee, but was soon forced to part with it. The wind increased with heavy rain so that all of us but Mr. Frankland (a Quaker) became sick. Took a little soup upstairs but did not keep it long. Remained in the small house till eight. I think I would have escaped better but for the sudden rough weather. The Americans reckon to admire ladies of slender make and pale faces. Mrs. Dean said she knew a young healthy blooming robust girl from England, who had recourse to large quantities of vinegar; at the same time girding herself very tight, so that she was now so reduced that she could not suppose that she could live very long. Mrs. Taylor at Poughkeepsie confirmed the same, stating that young ladies stay away from Church if the weather was at all unfavourable, lest they should be considered stout.

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 18TH.

Lay in bed till after seven; as I do not like waiting so long for breakfast (9 o'clock). Found we had not progressed much; the morning warm and fine. Sick again. Took a little tea and dry toast with an egg, and found it more disposed to remain with me. Went on deck and was able to read a few of Bryant's "Poems." Took for lunch two peaches and three slices of melon; again saw Mother Carey's chickens. Dined pretty well upon soup, a slice of mutton, a peach pie, two peaches and three slices of melon. Read some more B.'s "Poems," and also Cobbett's "Advice to Young Men." Difference of time between New York and Liverpool 4 hours and 44 minutes: also 4 dollars and 44 cents making our sovereign of twenty shillings.

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19TH.

Rose at half past six, having passed the night comfortably with pleasant dreams, is this occasioned by an empty stomach? Found we had made little way during the night; said to the second mate that we had got on very quickly, but he said they had had a busy time of it, as the wind had been in almost every point. I cannot but think that everything is managed much silenter than with the _Britannia_; a calm all day, the evening passed very pleasantly in general conversation. Finished reading Bryant's "Poems," some very good and highly descriptive. Had some conversation with several Irish women about returning home, afterwards insulted by some of their countrymen. The longitude is discovered best by a good time piece.

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 20TH.

Got up at half past six, not having slept so well as when the stomach was empty. Some conversation about Cobbett, most of them against him without knowing much about him. The wind favourable since three o'clock, going 6 to 8 knots an hour. Commenced reading Cobbett's "Life of Jackson." Shuffleboard played. Several porpoises seen. A good many petrels. After lunch a vessel suddenly appeared out of the mist with a X upon it. Supposed to be either a French packet, or one to Philadelphia. Another vessel was seen this morning, another sail seen this evening about 5-1/2. Found two or three slices of melon with a biscuit to be a good lunch.

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 21ST.

Passed another good night, and rose at half past six. Found we had been making about 5 knots an hour; three ships in sight; read before breakfast one of Cobbett's sermons "On hypocrisy." In the forenoon two sermons from Chalmers's "Discourses on Commercial Integrity." One of the steerage passengers read from the Scriptures and commented sensibly, but he was laughed at by some graceless Irishmen. In the afternoon Mr. Hopkins proposed to address the passengers. After reading about the talents he proceeded to speak of the Bible as the oldest and best Book. Paine, he said, had denounced it as a forgery, but various authors had mentioned the N.T. Burnett had quoted Lord Clarendon: the Old Testament was much older and was so called at the time the New Testament was published; the difficulty of procuring a copy before the art of printing, if the best, each should strive to get a copy, also read it and understand it, but above all practice it; not to be compared with a library even extending across the Atlantic, because the one only treated of this world, the other of that to come. Read three more of Channing's "Sermons," one fully proving self interest to be the foundation even of our best actions. After tea had a long chat respecting girls, etc. About ten went on deck, a most beautiful moonlight night; a nice breeze which we enjoyed much, after the calm day; more surprising considering the equinox.

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 22ND.

Rose about seven; found the wind light but quite favourable. R. C. not a very minute observer. He had never seen the phosphorus light in the sea till last night, though more than fifty days in going out. To-day the same gentleman said he was disappointed with the view from Catskill; but admitted that West Point was rather fine. Mr. Frankland had written home the most glowing account of the scenery. The thermometer to-day 80 degrees; nearly a dead calm all day till ten o'clock. Read a good deal of Cobbett's "Advice to Young Men." Felt more languid and rather sickly, such as I experienced now and then during some parts of the hot weather.

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23RD.

Rose at half past six, found us going about six knots an hour, the wind having been favourable since eleven. Finished reading Cobbett's "Advice to Young Men." A turtle observed; a fair wind and delightful all day; air and water 76 degrees, which perhaps is the cause of one feeling languid.

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 24TH.

Passed another comfortable night; found we had been getting on well all night; the air and water this morning 74 degrees; the wind favourable from 10 o'clock last night; read Ponreau's "Brief View of the American Constitution"; also the three remaining of Channing's "Discourses," the two first, and the two last excellent. Mr. Street mentions a young gentleman from Boston about to marry one of Mr. Woolley's daughters. Finished the evening by looking at the "Treatise on Singing."

The shortest passage to Liverpool
15 days 16 hours.
The shortest passage to New York
17 days.
James L. Wilson,
_Hibernia._

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 25TH.

Passed the night as usual; the contrast between this passage and the last truly wonderful; no rolling or pitching; the wind rather less. About noon a sprinkling of rain which increased and the wind diminished. In the evening fair and a calm. Read half of Mrs. Trollope's "America," and still consider it not so very bad. What a Tory is R. C. calling Bonaparte a great rogue, allowing him no merit hardly as a military character, violating every treaty, the English always right; when told of B. attending his soldiers ill of the plague, said others might and probably would have done the same. After being baffled in argument, if such assertions deserves to be so-called; he concluded by crying out Church and King, when told that W. Scott only pointed out two or three errors he said he was not a proper Tory; may Toryism ever have such a defender! In the morning he had been decrying the commercial character of the French.

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26TH.

Found the wind improved, more particularly since five o'clock. At seven 8 or 9 knots an hour. A brig bound to the west. Water 71 and air 64 degrees; still in part of the Gulf Stream which the Captain says seldom extends so far north. Passed a French brig at ten; the wind freshened and we took in some sail. About 5 some sail torn by the wind. At three passed another ship and brig nearly together; after dinner a small bird resembling our sparrow though rather larger and with speckled breast. The nearest point of land is at least 200 miles; it fluttered about refusing any food, then flew into the ladies' cabin and there remained during the evening.

Difference of time two hours from New York.

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 27TH.

Passed a more restless night, dreaming of my dear father and sister Mary, and that Charles Darbishire had become grey. After breakfast we passed through an immense flock of gulls, also a little flag attached to a sort of basket, used by the French fishermen to fasten their lines. All night going about 8 or 9 knots. This morning at eight to half past, passed four vessels all in sight at once, several of them brigs, supposed to be French. At 3 twelve more sail, mostly fishing boats; very cold, the thermometer 46 and the water 45.

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 28TH.

Dreamed a good deal about my father and William Rothwell, G. Cunliffe and John Bolling, so did not rise till half past 7. Found we had been going all night about 8 knots; the water at seven, 55 degrees, at 9, 65 degrees.