Chapter II: Journey From Tripoli to Morzouk

Preparations for their departure, in company with Mohammed el Mukni — Encampment in the Mountains of Terhoona, and at the Wells of Melghra — Arrival at Benioleed — Interview with the Wife of the Sheikh, of the Kafflé — Their Christian Friends return to Tripoli — Punishment of an Arab for Theft — Journey over the Desert — Remains of a Roman Castle — Continuation of the Journey, until their Arrival at Sockna — Entry into that City — Description of it — Manner of raising the Tribute Money — Accompany the Sultan’s Son to Hoon and Wadan, to receive the Taxes — Account of those Places — Return to Sockna — Leave Sockna — Singular Custom imposed on Travellers in passing the Soudah Mountains — Arrival at Nufdai — Clear the Soudah Mountains — And travel over the gravelly Plain, through the Pass of Kenair, to the Well of Om el Abeed — Visit the Towns of Zeighan and Samnoo, famed for their Marāboots — Encamp at Temenhint — Arrival at Sebha, where the Black Population commences — Pass on to Ghroodwa — Entry to Morzouk, the Capital of Fezzan.

On the 22d March, 1819, after repeated delays, every thing being at length in readiness for our departure, the camels, twenty-two in number, arrived, and carried our goods to the Desert beyond the Meshea, where Mr. Ritchie preferring to remain in the town, Belford, and myself, pitched our tent, in order to keep watch over the goods. Our Kafflé increased much this day; many Negroes, who had obtained their freedom, and were returning to their native countries, fixed their little triangles of sticks, and a mat or carpet, close to us, whilst I amused myself in marking our goods, so that each camel-man might be enabled to know his own charge, and thus avoid mistakes or confusion.

23d March.—I went back into the town, and found that Mukni was not to join us until the morrow; by which delay, we obtained time to furnish ourselves with many necessaries, which we had before forgotten to provide.

24th March.—Mukni did not arrive this day; but his two Negresses and household slaves came out and pitched their tents. These women were mounted on camels, in a kind of litter, called Shiblia شبليه which is a light frame of wood, covered with scarlet cloth, so arranged, as to prevent the person in the inside from being seen. One of them had been twice to the Niger with Mukni, and was named Zaitoon زيتون or olive tree; the other was the mother of his youngest child, and was called Zeman Donya, زمان دونيه time of the world. All was confusion this day; and the varied heaps of goods, camels, saddles, and animals, which were scattered about, presented a very lively scene. As I sat in our tent, writing a letter, some Arabs came in, and seemed to find much amusement in seeing me write from left to right; but, when I told them my letter was addressed to a Female, their astonishment knew no bounds; and they laughed heartily at the idea, that it was possible for a woman to be capable of reading. Colonel Warrington’s eldest son came to spend the evening with us.

March 25th.—I went into the town, and took leave of all my Christian friends. At eight A.M. the kafflé, consisting of about two hundred men, and the same number of camels, set off. We followed them, and pitched our tents, to rest for the night, on the desert, near a well and a few palm trees. After dark, Mr. Ritchie, accompanied by our friends, Dr. Dickson, and Messrs. Carstensen, arrived. We amused ourselves in visiting little parties of the liberated Blacks, who were all joyful at the idea of returning once more to their native land; though their means of support were very slender, and many of them, with their young children, had to walk a distance of above two thousand miles, before they could reach their own country.

March 26th.—At 8 A.M. we again moved on over a sandy, irregular desert, all in high spirits at having commenced our journey, after so many and apparently unnecessary delays. Having travelled south-east twelve miles, we encamped near a very deep well, which I have before mentioned, where we were to wait for Mukni. Our kind friend, Dr. Dickson, here left us, the Bashaw requiring his attendance at the Castle. After dark we observed several flashes of muskets, which were fired by Mukni’s attendants, in order to discover the position of the Kafflé; we fired others in return, and soon heard the shrill pipes of the musicians announcing his approach. A beautiful scene now presented itself when he entered the camp, attended by about fifty horsemen, dressed in their gayest apparel, preceded by wild music, and three stand of silk colours. As we had coffee prepared for ourselves, Mukni, who was very fond of it, visited us in our tent, and partook of it with his son Yussuf, a mulatto boy of about eight years of age. They were splendidly dressed, and had ridden from the town at full speed, the little boy being a most excellent horseman.

March 27th.—Early in the morning we went on, and discovered that in the night another Shiblia had joined us, containing a very fat and beautiful woman, the wife of Sheikh Barood, who was director of the Kafflé, and manager of Mukni’s affairs. Our road lay over a fine country, with corn, many flocks, and a few Arab tents scattered here and there. In the afternoon, having passed through several low hills, we arrived at some corn, and encamped near a well; the Sultan’s people turning their horses amongst the corn, without any pity or consideration for the poor wretches who owned it.

March 28th.—Entered the mountains of Terhoona, which we passed through on our return from Benioleed, and encamped, at four P.M. near the wells of Melghra.

March 29th.—We proceeded this day over a fine country, and through a Wadey, having wells in it, called Mader, مادر; we filled our gerbas, and then entered on a rough uncultivated plain, where the paths were very difficult for our camels.

March 30th.—Having travelled this day also over a stony desert, we arrived at Benioleed, from which place to Tripoli I have, in a former part of my journal, given the bearings. Mukni’s horsemen preceded him to the castle, firing and shouting, as the people of Tripoli do in honour of the Bashaw.

March 31st.—As this was market day, we remained here in order to refresh ourselves, pitching our tents very pleasantly and securely amongst some Olives in the Wadey. Mukni had warned us, on coming here, to avoid encamping on the low ground, as, during the rains, it frequently became entirely flooded, and was therefore very dangerous. He told us of the Wadey being sometimes so completely covered with water, as to hide the highest olive trees from the view; the depth must therefore have been at least thirty feet. Many natives confirmed this account, adding, that men and animals had often been drowned in the night, before they could have time to escape; the torrents from the hill sides which form the Wadey, rushing down with such impetuosity that an hour or two is sufficient to inundate the whole country. We bought a fine sheep in the market, and killed it to feast our guests.

A boy who accompanied us from Tripoli came to me, full of the praises of Lilla Fatma, the fat wife of Sheikh Barood, a white woman, who, he said, was the most beautiful creature he had ever seen, and so fat that she could scarcely walk: “her arm (t’barek Allah, تْبارك اله, God’s blessing on it!) is as big as my body,” continued he, “and she says she should like to see you and Sidi Yussuf.” Such a hint was not to be rejected, and I therefore immediately paid her a visit, the boy acting as my Interpreter. On my entrance she so veiled herself as to exhibit to advantage her arm, with all its gay ornaments; and on my requesting to be favoured with a view of her face, she, with very little reluctance, gratified me. Her chin, the tip of her nose, and the space between her eyebrows, were marked with black lines; she was much rouged; her neck, arms, and legs, were covered with tattooed flowers, open hands, circles, the names of God, and of her numerous male friends. She had a multitude of gold ear-rings and ornaments, set with very bad and counterfeit jewels, and weighing all together, I should think, two or three pounds. Her shirt was of striped silk; and she had a rich purple silk barracan, or mantle, gracefully thrown round her, and fastened at the breast by a gold pin, with ornaments of the same metal suspended from it: all the other articles of finery which she possessed were displayed round the tent, whilst a multitude of poor thin wretches, resembling witches, sat round her in astonishment, never having in their lives seen such a paragon of perfection. Like all other Arabs, they touched whatever pleased them most, one admiring this object, another something near it, so that our poor belle was sometimes poked by a dozen fingers at once; all, however, agreeing on one point, that she was beautifully and excessively fat, and I must say I never before beheld such a monstrous mass of human flesh. One of her legs, of enormous size, was uncovered as high as the calf, and every one pressed it, admiring its solidity, and praising God for blessing them with such a sight. I was received most graciously, and invited to sit close to her, when one of the first questions she asked me was, if in my country the ladies were as fat and handsome as herself? For the plumpness of my countrywomen, I owned, with shame, that I never had seen one possessed of half such an admirable rotundity, which she took as a great compliment; but I did not attempt to carry the comparison farther, though she was really very handsome in face and features. She amused herself while speaking with playing on a kind of drum, made of clay, called Derbooka, دربوكه, by beating with one hand, and playing with the fingers of the other; and perceiving that I was amused by it, she ordered an old man to get up and dance. The females sang and clapped their hands in good time, and the dancer went through a variety of figures, all equally indelicate. A woman then succeeded him, and in this respect quite threw him in the shade; but as I knew it to be the general mode of dancing in this part of Barbary, I of course applauded it. Lilla Fatma herself then thought proper to honour us with a few graceful attitudes in the same style; but Mr. Ritchie’s entrance into the tent soon put a stop to the exhibition, and the ceremony of veiling took place in the same manner as before. Fatma soon discovered a likeness between her late husband and Mr. Ritchie, from their being both very slender; but unfortunately the resemblance failed in all other points, her former spouse being, at the time she was obliged to leave him by an order of the Bashaw, fifty years old, with a grey beard; while, on the other hand, Mr. Ritchie was but twenty-seven, and of a very fair complexion. She was at all events determined to be pleased with us; and having sprinkled us with rose-water, allowed us to take our leave. On returning to our tent, we sent her some coffee, and a few lumps of sugar.

We found here much difficulty in obtaining water for our horses, owing to the great depth of the wells, and the people being employed in filling the skins for the morrow. In the evening, we visited Mukni, at the castle; and finding him surrounded by eatables, were invited to partake of them: but we discovered, that all his people, whilst it was his pleasure to remain, were fed by the natives, cost free. We laid in a sufficient stock of barley to supply our four horses, until we should arrive at Morzouk.

April 2nd.—We took water for three days, on the camels, and passed along the Wadey, at 7,15, A.M. Our friends here quitted us, in order to return to Tripoli, and we were now left to ourselves, amongst a strange people; our hearts were heavy, and we conversed but little during the remainder of the day. The country, on rising from the Wadey, was a stony desert until noon, when we passed over plains capable of cultivation, but having no water.

At 4,50, entered another Wadey, in which we saw a large herd of Gazelles; and, passing through it until 5,20, we encamped. Made S.E. by S. thirty miles. The horses were turned out to graze on a large field of barley, belonging to the Orfilly. This place was called Gairi, قيري or Sofagie. A mountain, south three miles, named Glla قله, and a distant range in the same direction, called Souarit سواريت. Much good herbage. On the camels being unloaded, we found that an old Bornou black had died on the one which he rode. A melancholy howling was set up by the women, and the corpse was carried to a distance, and immediately buried. An Arab, who was prowling about this evening, stole a gun belonging to one of the Sultan’s followers; but was detected, and bastinadoed in a most barbarous manner, by two men on each side, with green date sticks. After this part of his punishment was ended, a man mounted a horse, and started at full gallop, leading, or rather dragging this poor wretch after him. His wrists were tied together behind him, and the end of the cord which secured them was attached to the horse’s saddle. Had he fallen when thus dragged along, his shoulders must inevitably have been dislocated.

April 3rd.—We journeyed all this day over a stony plain, without the least sign of vegetation, and covered with small stones, of about the size and form of lumps of sugar; their surfaces appeared vitrified, and shone very much. In the evening, we got into a wadey where we found a well, and several talhh trees, so that we had abundance of fuel. We heard, during the night, repeated cries of jackals and hyænas. Made this day, S.E. twenty-eight miles.

April 4th.—At seven A.M. went on over a barren plain, having no water; but were enabled to collect a few bushes for our night’s cooking. At sunset secured our baggage, and lay in a gravelly flat. Jackals very noisy. Proceeded S.E. twenty-eight miles.

April 5th.—Barren plain as before. At two P.M. ascended a steep hill, from which, in every direction, the country appeared quite desolate;—found a few bushes on the top. On descending, at sunset, we pitched our tents, having travelled thirty-five miles, S.E.

April 6th.—At six A.M. we started, and passed over the wadeys Hait حيت, and Zemzem زمزم; each having a few prickly bushes, on which our camels fed. The latter is of great length, and runs to the sea, in the Gulf of Syrtis.

At 1,30, having passed a plain, where we found gypsum, and in some places, cockle-shells, we reached some sand hills to the well of Bonjem بنجم; the water of which resembles, both in taste and smell, bilge water from a ship. It lies in a stratum of black clay, about five feet below the sand. At the distance of half a mile from the well, is a Roman castle, situated amongst some high sand hills: it is of an oblong form, having in the centre of each of the walls, which are towards the cardinal points, a large arched gateway, between two strong towers. Each of the former, with its flanking towers, is in a different style of architecture: only one remains quite perfect; the others have fallen, or are partially buried in the sand. The stones of which these buildings are composed, are of the magnitude common to all Roman structures, and are of a kind of dark granite. In the enclosed space are several immense stones, standing upright, and so placed as to give the appearance of having once supported a large building: some are ten feet in height, independent of the part embedded in the sand. The mouth of a well is visible, still bearing the marks of the cords used in drawing the water; it is now entirely choked up with sand. The walls from east to west, are above two hundred paces in length; I should rather say, the tops of the walls, for in some places, they are buried in the sand; and from north to south, about one hundred and fifty. The Arabs, probably in the time of the Khalifs, appear to have used the northern towers; as remains of their rude masonry still surmount the original buildings. Over each gateway there had been an inscription, of which the northern one is most perfect. We found, by comparing them, that all were thus worded.

IMP . CAES . L . SEPTIMIO . SEVERO.
PIO . PERTINACI . AVG . TRPOTV . IIII
IMP CSIIPPET IMP . CAES . M
AVRELIO . ANTONINO V RI
IIII . ET SEPTIMIO CAE
AVG . O . ANICIO . FAVSTO . LEG
AVGVSTORVM . CONSVLARI
IPO . III . AVG . PV

Under each had once been a large eagle, carved in basso relievo; but they are now so mutilated, as to bear very little resemblance to that bird.

This place is the northern boundary of Fezzan. All slaves of Mukni’s, going from Fezzan to Tripoli on account of the Bashaw, belong to the former until Bonjem is past; should any die afterwards, the Bashaw is the loser. The same risk attends the latter when he sends horses or goods to Mukni; all losses being made good by him north of the boundary, and by Mukni south of it. All camels found straying on the desert are appropriated to the respective kingdoms.

_Drawn from Nature by G. F. Lyon._

_On Stone by G. Harley._

THE CASTLE OF BONJEM.

_London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821._

_C. Hullmandel’s Lithography._]

Bonjem, according to Mr. Ritchie, is in latitude 30°. 35′. 32″. N. A few Arabs passed us with three camels and twelve female slaves, from Morzouk. We expected, on leaving Tripoli, to be much troubled about the established prayers, which should be repeated by the natives five times a day, though by travellers only thrice; but our present companions certainly were not very scrupulous in their religious duties; no one, or at most only two or three of them, ever praying at all; and, as for Mukni and his followers, they seemed to give themselves very little trouble about it. The only devout person amongst them, was one of our camel-men, who roared out all day, as loud as he was able, verses from the Koran, and charms against the devil; yet, in spite of all his sanctity, he was the greatest rascal in the kafflé. This fellow, in speaking of us, contemptuously called us Romees, or Christians; which coming to Mukni’s knowledge, he threatened him with a good thrashing, if he ever again called us any thing but Mamlukes, as the Sultan himself did.

The people of the kafflé having, by this time, become better acquainted with us, soon discovered Mr. Ritchie’s medical talents, and accordingly gave him no little trouble with their real and fancied complaints. They were all very anxious to be bled, and to take physic. One or two who were the most troublesome, and who had only imaginary ailments, were consigned to my management; for these I prepared, with an air of affected gravity, a mixture of coffee, salt, vinegar, and red pepper, giving to each a spoonful, with many serious instructions, how they were to eat, drink, and sleep; and I found, next morning, to my great satisfaction, that my patients had spread a report all over the kafflé, of the excellent effects of my wonderful medicine. During the night we heard a few jackals, whose tracks absolutely covered the sand hills round the castle.

April 7th.—The camels, which had been out on the plain to feed on the bushes, were brought in; and having waited till 1.30. P.M. to rest the people, we loaded, and went on our way. Abd Allah el Bendag, an old Arab, was despatched to Morzouk on a Maherry, to announce the approach of the Sultan. Our camels were loaded with four days’ water; a strong south wind covered us with sand, and the day was uncommonly sultry. Our road lay over a barren desert called Klïa, قليه. The surface, where clear of sand, was of gypsum. At 5 P.M. we passed a remarkable mound of limestone and sand; which, until a very near approach, resembled a white turret, and is called Bazeen, برزين. This name is also applied to the country immediately surrounding it. Our view was bounded on every side by distant yellow hills, appearing to be perfectly destitute of every kind of vegetation. At 11.40. P.M. rested for the night in a sandy wadey, called Boonaja, ابوناجه (or the ewe’s father), having made twenty-two miles south-south-east. This evening, as we rode along, the horsemen amused themselves in skirmishing before Mukni; and the Negroes danced and sang as well as their fatigue would allow them. The Sultan himself took my gun, and rode among his people at full speed, firing at their horses’ feet. All this parade was in consequence of our now being in the kingdom of Fezzan.

April 8th.—At 6 A.M. we left the wadey, and at 7 went through a pass, called Hormut Emhalla, خرموت المخالّه (or the pass of the army.) At 9.20. we passed a range of table mountains, running north-east and south-west, called Elood, الود. The desert here became stony and very uneven; a range of mountains to the southward, two or three miles, running east and west, and forming a crescent to the east of our path: they are called Guatela, قواتله. The westward was an uneven yellow range, distant five or six miles. At 10.5. A.M. we passed the west point of Guatela, our road lying close under the foot of the mountains. At 11 A.M. we turned to the southward and eastward. At 1.15. P.M. passed a conical hill standing apart from the neighbouring mountains, and resembling a tent, called El Khayma, الخيمه. At 5 P.M. entered a pass called Hormut Tuzzēt, حرموت طزّيت. At 6 cleared the pass, and opened on a plain; table mountains bearing south-east, called Matta Imhammed, مته امحمّد. At 6.30. encamped: one of our camels died this day, and three others were, from fatigue, unable to come up; indeed all the camels in the Kafflé were much distressed, not having for several days tasted any kind of food, and our marches were in general long.

April 9th.—At 6.15. A.M. started over a flat, which had no break to the view, except very distant mountains. Two hours and a half from the time of our setting off there is a solitary tree, which is considered as one day’s journey from water. Slaves, in coming from this water, are not allowed to drink until they reach the tree in question, which is one of the longest stages in the journey from Fezzan. The distant mountains had the appellation of Khod el Khādem, خدالخادم (or “take the negress.”) The plain was called El Grarat Arab Hoon, الغرارت عرب حون. At 7 P.M. we entered a pass called Hormut taad atar, خرموت طعداتر. And after passing through a winding wadey, closely hemmed in by the mountains, at 9 we stopped near a well of very brackish, stinking water, situated in a small plain, which here opens out in a circular form. Still no fodder for our camels. A man joined us with some stewed meat for the Sultan, and a load of water, from Sockna; and we procured a bowl of the latter, which afforded us no small treat. The well here, in hot seasons, is dry, and even at this period was very low. The horses, with great avidity, sucked up the mud which was thrown out of it. Strong sand wind from the southward.

April 10th.—At 6.10. A.M. set off. At 7 cleared the pass, and proceeded to a small wadey, where, in spite of a strong Siroc, we succeeded in pitching our tents. The sand, however, flew about in such quantities, that we were unable to prepare any food, and we could not even see thirty yards from us. Mukni took shelter with us, and advised that we should strip to our shirts, as the lightest way of withstanding the sand showers. Mr. Ritchie here presented him with one of our tents, it being much superior to his own. In the afternoon, the wind having a little subsided, we cleared away the heaps of sand which had collected round our goods, and allowed the camels to graze on the small bushes until 3 o’clock. We found, on examining some of our stores, that a large organ had been burst by the heat, and excessive dryness of the wind; a discovery by no means welcome to us. At 3.15. P.M. struck our tent, and again made our way over the plain until 7, when we stopped amongst some palms, which were thickly planted in a range of sand hills. There were two wells of tolerably fresh water at this place, which is called Hammam, حامام. From hence we could easily have made our way to Sockna; but as the Sultan preferred entering in the morning, we were content to stop, and get our heads shaved, as well as to enjoy a good washing, which was very requisite, as we were not over clean. The Sultan’s people were also employed in preparing themselves; and a large convoy of drummers, bag-pipers, and others, joined us in the night, mounted on asses, in order to precede his majesty to his city of Sockna.

April 11th.—At 7 A.M. proceeded with the Sultan and his escort, but found we were sadly in the back-ground with respect to outward appearance. Unfortunately we had not thought it necessary to put on any of our embroidered clothes, having no idea that so much finery was to be displayed; and whilst all the slaves of the Sultan sported their gayest apparel, we were simply habited as Arabs. Mukni was not well pleased at this omission on our part; for as we had the honour of riding on each side of him, and were considered as great men, he wished us to have been as fine and solemn as himself. On coming in sight of the town, the soldiers commenced firing and racing in front of the Sultan, and the musicians struck up such a noise as nearly stunned us. We were shortly joined by another party, who even outdid the first in sound. A number of dancing women then appeared, who, in most fantastic dresses, threw themselves into extraordinary attitudes, crying in their usual shrill manner, and calling down blessings on the Sultan and his family. The armed people who came from the town amounted to about six or seven hundred, not including lookers-on, of at least the same number. The Sultan’s horses, in golden trappings, and led by well dressed slaves, advanced in front, under three silk Tripolitan flags, striped red and yellow horizontally. A curious interruption took place during our progress, in consequence of a man’s horse requiring to stale, when the whole procession, following the example of the Sultan, stopped for him; and we again proceeded with much solemnity. Only two other stoppages took place during the day; once when a band of slaves came and prostrated themselves before Mukni, and at another time when his majesty halted to regale himself with a fresh quid of tobacco. Amongst many laughable incidents which occurred, an unfortunate black drummer was tilted with his drum over the head of the donkey he rode, which ludicrous disaster occasioned much mirth, and even caused Mukni’s state frown to relax. The town’s people, on joining us, advanced in a straight line, until within about a hundred yards, when, firing their muskets, and setting up a loud yell, they rushed forward, and surrounded the Sultan, to kiss his hands. After these ceremonies, they divided themselves into small parties, and expended a great deal of powder in sham fights.

_Drawn from Nature by G. F. Lyon._

_On Stone by D. Dighton._

A SAND WIND ON THE DESERT.

_London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821._

_C. Hullmandel’s Lithography._]

We arrived at 10 in the town of Sockna, سكنا, and were directed to the house which had been prepared for us. In the evening our camels also arrived; and now we arrayed ourselves in our most costly dresses, and went to pay our respects to the Sultan. We found him surrounded by some hundred Arabs, all talking at once, and disputing about money matters, while Mukni appeared to listen to them with extraordinary patience. We now had become better acquainted with Arabic, and I profited much by teaching the Sultan’s little son Yussuf to speak English.

Sockna stands on an immense plain of gravel; bounded to the south by the Soudah mountains, at about fifteen miles; by the mountains of Wadan about thirty miles to the eastward; a distant range to the west; and those I have already mentioned on passing through to the north. The town is walled, and may contain 2000 persons; more than half the people we saw this day were from Hoon and Wadan. There are small projections from the walls, having loop-holes for musketry. It has seven gates, only one of which will admit a loaded camel. The streets are very narrow, and the houses are built of mud and small stones mixed, many of them having a story above the ground floor. A small court is open in the centre; and the windows, or more properly the doors, which open from this area, give the only light which the rooms receive. The water of Sockna is almost all brackish or bitter. There are 200,000 date trees in the immediate neighbourhood of the town, which pay duty; also an equal number, not yet come into bearing, which are exempt. These dates grow in a belt of sand, at about two or three miles distant from the town, and are of a quality far superior to any produced in the north of Africa. Owing to their excellence, they are sold at a very high price at Tripoli. The adjoining country is entirely destitute of shrubs, or any kind of food for camels, which are therefore sent to graze about five miles off; while in the town all animals are fed on dates. Sheep are brought here from Benioleed, and are, in consequence of coming from such a distance, very dear. In the gardens, which are about three miles from the town, barley, maize, and gussob, قصب, are cultivated, as well as a few onions, turnips, and peppers. The quantity of flies here is immense, and all the people carry little flappers, made of bunches of wild bulls’ hair, tied to a short stick, in order to keep these pests at a distance. The dates all being deposited in store-houses in the town, may account, in some degree, for the multitude of these insects; which, in a few minutes, fill every dish or bowl containing any liquid. The duties paid by this place amount to 2000 dollars annually, exclusive of a tax of one dollar on each two hundred date trees. All the people attached to the Sultan, and ourselves also, received food twice a day from the Sheikh, who collected it from the inhabitants; our horses likewise got a daily portion of dates.

The costume here is the same as that of the Bedouins, consisting generally of a shirt and barracan, a red cap, and sandals: a few, whose circumstances allow of it, dress in the costume of Tripoli. The neat appearance of the men, in general, is very striking, compared with that of the Arabs about the coast. The women are considered exceedingly handsome; indeed, one or two whom I saw at Fatma’s were really so, and as fair as Europeans; but they are noted for their profligacy and love of intrigue.

When the kingdom of Fezzan was governed by a native Prince, this town and the two neighbouring ones were, in a manner, independent; the distance from their own capital, as well as from Tripoli, securing them from surprise. All discontented or disaffected people, from either country, took refuge here, and the population was, at that time, more than double what it now is. The people of Sockna speak a language peculiar to themselves and to the Tuarick of the Great Desert; it is called Ertāna, and is, I believe, the original Breber tongue. In another part of this work, I have given a short vocabulary of it. Mukni receives all his tribute in person, and is, from daylight until dark, sitting in the midst of the Arabs. As soon as the business of one party is settled, a prayer is recited, and room is left for another equally noisy set, who, though they dispute and make all sort of difficulty about paying their money, are never suffered by Mukni to gain their point: at the very moment indeed when they appear most confident of having their complaints attended to, some one of Mukni’s men cries out “The Fattha!” (or first chapter of the Koran), every one joining in that prayer. This is the signal for the poor creatures to retire, and they are then obliged to consider their claims as settled.

The Sheikh is in continual apprehensions of losing his life; his predecessor having, the year before, been found one night with his throat cut, and no one was allowed to inquire who committed the deed. The inhabitants were obliged to pay a fine or penalty of 2000 dollars to Mukni (who alone was supposed guilty), in consequence of the murder having been perpetrated in the town.

It being necessary for the Sultan to employ persons of trust to receive his taxes at Hoon and Wadan, as well as from the neighbouring Arabs, he proposed sending with them his young son Yussuf, allowing Mr. Ritchie and myself also to accompany them, in order to afford us a safe opportunity of seeing those places. A troop of about thirty horsemen being prepared, on the 14th of June we set out. Little Yussuf was placed under the charge of a man named Ibrahim, who had also orders to attend to and supply all our wants.

After passing over the plain, and through the palms, east by south ten miles, we arrived at Hoon, حون. It is a smaller town than Sockna, but walled, and built in the same manner: its palms and gardens are close to the walls. It has three gates, three mosques, and a large building which is dignified with the name of a castle, although it does not appear even to have a loophole for musketry. The inhabitants, having about three hundred muskets, came out to welcome Yussuf, and we met with the same boisterous reception as was given a few days before to the Sultan. A number of dancing women performed in the court of the house in which we were assembled, the greatest part of the day; and in the evening the slaves joined the concert with their cymbals. The whole was so completely to the taste of Mukni’s men, and continued so long, that the performers were literally tired out. When they came to request corn or money from the spectators, it was to us they first applied, as considering us the greatest personages; but we were so poor, in despite of our fine garments, that we actually had nothing to give, which disappointed and astonished them much.

_Drawn from Life by G. F. Lyon._

_On Stone by M. Gauci._

PIPER AND DANCER. TRIPOLI. DANCING WOMAN. SOCKNA.

_London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821._

_C. Hullmandel’s Lithography._]

In the burying-grounds near the town we observed that nearly all the graves were ornamented with one or more ostrich eggs, as were the doors and angles of the mosques, and their enclosures. We entered the tomb of a Marāboot, and standing near the grave, recited the “Fatha” aloud. In the evening we visited the gardens, which are close to the town, the latter being completely hidden from the view by the thick palms which surround it. The soil is sand, but the grain was in the most luxuriant state of forwardness, owing to its being constantly refreshed by little channels from the wells, the water of which is brackish.

The people of the town having been told what sum of money they were required to collect before we returned from Wadan, we proceeded on the 15th April to that place, passing over a barren stony flat east by north twelve or thirteen miles. The town is not walled, and appears very inferior to the other two in point of neatness, comfort, and convenience, though its aspect is much more pleasing, as it is built on a conical hill, on the top of which are some enclosed houses, called the Castle. Here there is a well of great depth, cut through the solid rock, and evidently not the work of the Bedouins. One of the Shreefs took us into a mosque, that we might examine a curious stone, bearing an Arabic inscription in raised letters, and, from its date, it must have been above six hundred years old. It was let into the mud wall, but no one knew where it had been found. Mr. Ritchie did not attempt to copy it, as we were not yet enough acquainted with the customs of the Arabs to know if it would be permitted. The tombs and mosques, as at Hoon, were ornamented with quantities of ostrich eggs.

The natives of Wadan are Arabs of the tribe Moajer مواجر, who chiefly spend their time in attending their flocks at the Syrtis الصرت, and resident shreefs, or descendants of the Prophet; the latter forming the greater part of the population. There is a chain of mountains, a few miles east of the town, called also Wadan, on account of the immense number of buffaloes to be found there, and which are of three species; viz. the Wadan, an animal of the size of an ass, having very large horns, short reddish hide, and large bunches of hair hanging from each shoulder, to the length of eighteen inches or two feet: they have very large heads, and are very fierce. The Bogra el Weish البقرّالويش, which is a red buffalo, slow in its motions, having large horns, and being of the size of an ordinary cow; and the white buffalo of a lighter and more active make, very shy and swift, and not easily procured. The calving time of these animals is in April or May. There are also in these mountains great quantities of ostriches, by hunting which many of the natives subsist. All the Arabs here agree respecting the manner in which these birds sit on their eggs, and which I was not before aware of. They are not left to be hatched by the warmth of the sun, but the parent bird forms a rough nest, in which she covers from fourteen to eighteen eggs, and regularly sits on them in the same manner as the common fowl does on her chickens; the male occasionally relieving the female. It is during the breeding season that the greatest numbers are procured, the Arabs shooting the old ones while on their nests. At all the three towns, Sockna, Hoon, and Wadan, it is the custom to keep tame ostriches in a stable, and in two years, to take three cuttings of their feathers. I imagine, from what I have seen of the skins of ostriches brought for sale, that all the fine feathers sent to Europe are from tame birds; the wild ones being generally so ragged and torn, that not above half a dozen good perfect ones can be found. The white feathers are what I allude to; the black, being shorter and more flexible, are generally good. All the camels belonging to these people are sent to the Syrtis, to pasture; a distance of about five days’ journey. It sometimes occurs, that after a great deal of rain has fallen, the plains beyond the Wadan mountains acquire sufficient verdure to feed the cattle for a few weeks.

On this evening we had some juice of the palm-tree, called Lackbi, brought us, together with some milk; and the dancing women remained until midnight. The tribute was all paid at the evening prayer.

April 16th.—Returned to Hoon, where we were received as before. It being Friday, we saw every one preparing to go to the assembly at the Mosque. Mr. Ritchie declined attending; but I was determined to make my debut, and to see how I could go through the necessary formalities. I therefore prepared myself, by endeavouring to appear quite unconcerned, and readily accompanied the Sultan’s chief followers, who seemed pleased at my joining them. There were about 200 people present, and additional prayers were recited in honour of the Sultan (Mukni) and his family. I found I acquitted myself very well, although one or two of the old people, as I thought, viewed me with an eye of suspicion, well aware that I had but very little knowledge of Arabic. The tribute-money was brought this day by the Sheikh, a great crowd attending him. A little boy who was amongst them made himself known to us, as having come in the same kafflé with us from Tripoli. We recollected, and made use of him to show us round the town, which he did readily, occasionally running before us, and calling to all the girls of his acquaintance, to come out and look at the new Mamlukes. This they did in crowds, and with their faces uncovered: some of them were rather pretty, and appeared to take pleasure in conversing with us, laughing much at the mistakes we made, in consequence of our slight knowledge of Arabic. The boy asked us many amusing questions about our future intentions, and was particularly anxious to know where we were going, and whether for the purpose of collecting slaves, as he suspected. We, of course, disclaimed any such intention, adding, that in our own country we looked on slavery with horror. At this he expressed great contempt of us, exclaiming, “D——n their fathers, the asses!” a common oath amongst these people, “what are they made for, but to serve us? go then and take them, for they are Kaffirs, and we cannot do without them.” I mention this as a specimen of all the Arabs, who believe most religiously, that the Negroes were only created for their service. The natives of Hoon are of the tribe Fateima فتيمه, and are of good character.

17th April.—We returned to Sockna. On this day I made an attempt to prove how far it was possible to exercise authority over the Arabs, and Mr. Ritchie not wishing to interfere, left me to act as I thought proper. The case was this: during our journey from Tripoli I had observed a poor slave, of about fifty years of age, belonging to the owner of some of our camels, so fatigued as to be scarcely able to follow us. His frame was quite emaciated, and his feet and legs much swelled. His inhuman master, notwithstanding the deplorable state in which he was, invariably sent him out all night to attend the camels, and he only brought them back to commence another sad day’s journey, during which he was frequently beaten. On arriving at Sockna he was sent on to the desert with the animals, and returned to the town this day in a high fever, and in a most miserable condition. His master, according to custom, beat him severely with a stick, and finding the poor black unable to cry out, actually took stones and beat him on the head with them, another Arab assisting in the cruel task. So much unnecessary barbarity induced me to endeavour to defend the poor sufferer; but my interference was greeted with no very polite expressions, and my endeavouring to prove that the poor black was a human creature as well as his master, exposed me to much laughter and contempt. I pursued my point, however, and immediately went to Mukni’s chief black, swearing by the Sultan’s head, that he should instantly punish the master of the slave. To my great satisfaction he immediately complied, giving the wretch a very severe bastinado, as hard as two men could lay it on. When I returned to our house, the other Arab laughed at and taunted me to such a degree, that I was obliged (to his great astonishment) to give him a good thrashing, not a little apprehensive, I must own, lest some revenge should be taken on me in consequence; but I soon found I had nothing to dread, for these very men never after omitted coming daily to kiss my hand; and, while I was in sight, always caressed the poor slave, who from that time became a kind of pensioner on us.

The Arabs of Sockna are of the tribe Riahh رياه. There are also some wanderers from Tripoli and the Syrtis, who frequent these towns on the soofra جوفره, or frontier. They are of the tribes Waled boo Saif اولاد ابو سيف, Waled ben Miriam اولاد بن مريم and Sohhoob سحوب, and change their residence as they find pasture. Their little moveable tents are their only habitations; for even in the neighbourhood of towns they make a small encampment while they remain.

All our business being settled, we prepared to leave this place. Mr. Ritchie presented the Sheikh with some powder and cutlery ware, which, as I discovered some time after, was taken away from him by the covetous Sultan for his own use.

Lilla Fatema was at this time very ill, and as Mr. Ritchie declined visiting her, I became her doctor, and by means of some compounds of my own invention, quite cured her. Amongst the little secrets of her illness, I found out that she indulged herself in pretty large potions of Lackbi, which no doubt occasioned the head-aches she complained of.

Mr. Ritchie made several attempts with Gambay’s dipping needle, the results of which are with his papers, and we each brought Sockna’s latitude to 29° 5′ 36″ north, by observation of Spica Virginis.

On 22d of April left Sockna in company with the Sultan. At 11.30. we were attended clear of the town by a great multitude of people, and a prayer being recited, the horsemen all stopped, holding their open hands with the palms towards heaven. After this, each one kissed the Sultan’s hand, and returned home. At one we passed a small spring, the only one in the country, of about two feet in diameter, in which the water was pretty good. The Sultan here told us, with an air of firm belief, that a Marāboot once travelling this way, was overcome by thirst, and that by striking the ground with his stick (in the name of God), this water arose. At 3.30. we entered a wadey in the Soudah mountains, called Octooffa اكطوفه, bearing from Sockna south by west, and at six encamped near a well of tolerably good water, called Gutfa قتفا. Our place of encampment was a small plain, without any other vegetation than a few prickly bushes of talhh. This spot was surrounded on every side by high mountains of basalt, which gave it the appearance of being in the crater of a volcano. We here presented our Bouzaferr بوزفرّ, which is a kind of footing paid by all travellers on entering Fezzan, and is attended with ceremonies something similar to those observed on crossing the line. Should any person refuse the necessary distribution of food, the Arabs dig a grave, telling him that it is made expressly for him, and howling as for a dead person, with many other ridiculous pranks, which generally produce the wished-for feast. We took with us, for this purpose, two sheep, and a quantity of meal, and distributed portions to all the tents, much to the satisfaction of our fellow travellers. Lilla Fatma also paid her footing, as did one or two others, who had never before passed these mountains. We this day had advanced south 10° west eighteen miles.

April 25th.—Having filled five days water for ourselves and horses, we left the well at 6.40. A.M. The camels took a circuitous route along a deep valley, owing to a very steep mountain called Nufdai نوفدي, lying in front of us. The horse and footmen ascended it at 9.40. by a most difficult path of large irregular masses of basalt. The horses, however, were sure-footed, and at 10.40. we again descended to a wadey, called Zgar, where the camels joined us, after having been four hours winding round the foot of the mountain, which we had crossed in one. At 11.35. ascended from the wadey to a flat, called Dahr t’Moumen دحارتمومين (or the believer’s back). The basalt here was in less quantities, and often in small broken pieces, resembling gravel. At 1.10. we descended to a wadey, called Emzairaat مزيرعت, when we saw a few antelopes.

Here, while I was resting under a tree, a man came and told me that he had observed a snake of the most venomous species, called Effa الفّا, coiled up under a bush. I instantly armed myself with a ramrod, and having discovered the reptile, pinned it to the ground by a stab through the lower jaw. Belford just then came up, and fancying it was of a harmless kind, took it by the tail: as he was on the opposite side of me, I did not perceive him, and having pressed another stick on the creature’s head, I withdrew the ramrod, in order to get a better hold of it. At this moment Belford again pulled, and extricated the snake, which turned upon and attempted to bite him; its tail, however, luckily broke, and it fell back into the bush, where I immediately despatched it. Had it wounded Belford, as it was on the point of doing, his death would have been inevitable, as we had no instrument at hand for cutting out the venom, or any fire with which to burn it, as is done with effect by the Arabs. On examining the snake, I found it was of the same species as some I had seen at Tripoli; those, however, did not exceed six inches in length, whereas this was about two feet long, and very bulky. Their colour is generally a dull reddish-brown, with black spots; the belly yellow, and aspect particularly disagreeable and malignant.

The movements of this snake are very peculiar: it does not propel itself in the same way as other serpents, but in a lateral manner, advances its right side, and then draws forward its head at each motion, while, in the act of gliding on, it forms a figure resembling the letter S.

Our road lay through several gloomy wadeys, when, at three, we stopped in one called Tingareer طنقارير. At 4.15. the camels came up, and as the place afforded some few bushes, we encamped there for the purpose of refreshing them.

April 24th.—Camels started at 5.45. At ten, a distant mountain north-west, called El Kohol (from its blackness). At twelve, after passing a stony track, came to a wadey Mesheil مشيل. At two P.M. cleared the mountainous part of the Soudah, and descended to a plain, El Maitba Soudah الميتباسوده, from its being covered with small pieces of basalt. At 2.45. came to a spot called El Maitba Baida بيدا, having not the slightest trace of basalt, and being covered with a very small white gravel.

We did not see, any where, the least appearance of vegetation; but observed many skeletons of animals, which had died of fatigue on the Desert, and occasionally the grave of some human being. All these bodies were so dried by the extreme heat of the sun, that putrefaction did not appear to have taken place after death. In recently expired animals I could not perceive the slightest offensive smell; and in those long dead, the skin, with the hair on it, remained unbroken and perfect, although so brittle as to break with a slight blow. The sand-winds never cause these carcasses to change their places, as in a short time a slight mound is formed round them, and they become stationary.

At 5.50. we passed low table-topped hills east and west of us, called El Gaaf القعف. This desert was named Sbir ben Afeen زبيربن عفين. At seven we encamped. The plain round us presented so perfect a horizon, that an astronomical observation might have been taken as at sea. From the excessive dryness of the air, our blankets and barracans emitted electric sparks, and crackled distinctly on being rubbed. The horses’ tails, also, in beating off the flies, had the same effect. Our whole Kafflé were much fatigued. This day we had advanced south-south-west, thirty-five miles.

April 25th.—At four, A.M. the camels set out; 8.15. we passed some sand-hills, called el Ramle Kebeer الرامل كبير, or large sands. At nine we came again on the plain, which was covered with a white encrusted clay; at three, P.M. passed el Ramle Shraya, or small sands, and at 4.45. descended by some precipitous rocks to a sandy, irregular plain, very difficult and dangerous, until we had crossed the sand-hills. At about half a mile to the eastward of the pass, which, as well as the plain, is called Koneir كنير, is a singular rock in a conical form, surmounted by another resembling a turret, called Amaymet Saad اميمت سعد. Hills over the watering place were pointed out to us in the distance, south-south-west. At nine we entered a wadey, called Om el Abeed ام العبيد (the Mother of the Slaves), and at eleven arrived at a well of the same name, situated amongst the mountains, and having a quantity of bushes growing about it.

We found here two large flocks of sheep and goats on the way to Morzouk from Benioleed. We had supposed some flocks were ahead of us, five or six sheep having been picked up by the Kafflé, while still alive, but unable to walk, and had, therefore, been left to perish. At twelve the camels arrived, having travelled twenty hours, or above forty-eight miles, south-south-west. The wind was south during the whole day, bringing with it such showers of burning sand, as almost to smother us. We frequently lost our track, and were unable to distinguish objects at the distance even of a few yards. The flatness of the country offering no opposition to the wind, we were exposed to all its fury. The little children of the liberated negroes walked all this day, suffering most severely, their heads being shaved, and constantly exposed to the burning heat of the sun. One of the poor women was taken in labour in the afternoon, and we were obliged to tie her on a camel to prevent her falling off, and being left on the road to perish. We had arrived at this place so late at night as to be unable to prepare any thing to eat.

April 26th.—Started at seven, A.M. leaving the camels to rest, and the horsemen rode on for Zeighan زيغن, which place we reached at ten, having passed over a rocky country. The village is walled, and surrounded by a large forest of palms. We had here a most ample quantity of provisions served up to us, and did great honour to our meal. The camels arrived in the evening. Latitude of Zeighan, 27° 26′ north.

April 27th.—Moved on at 6 A.M. from Zeighan, passing over a barren plain, having small basaltic hillocks; after travelling south 23° west eight miles, arrived at Samnoo, سمنو, a village of the same description, although larger, and rather more neatly walled than the others. It has three tolerably built white-washed minarets, rising to some height above the houses, which produce a very pleasing appearance. These were the only minarets we had seen since we left Tripoli. The houses are very neatly built, and the rooms are washed with a yellow mud, instead of white-wash, which has a very pretty effect. This town, as well as Zeighan, is famed for the number and sanctity of its Marāboots; and I can vouch for their being the best Arab cooks we had as yet met with. Palms encircle the town, and the gardens are considered very good.

April 28th.—We left Samnoo at 7 P.M. riding, in the dark, over a barren plain of gravel; and at midnight arrived at Temenhiut, تمنحينت, where we found our tents ready pitched outside the palms surrounding the town, which is but an inconsiderable one. Made twenty miles south 75° west: Mukni told us he had never entered the town, although he had encamped near it above twenty times.

April 29th.—We left this place at 4.30. P.M. and at 8 encamped on a small plain.

April 30th.—Broke up our encampment at 7 A.M. and proceeded for two hours over the hills, whence we descended a fine pass to a plain, on which stands the town of Sebha; the singular appearance of which, from the heights, was very picturesque. It is surrounded by groves of palms, while the rest of the plain is a dreary desert. At 10 we arrived at the town, which rises like a little amphitheatre: it is mud walled, and has a high square white-washed minaret to its principal Mosque. All the male population came out to salute the Sultan; and I observed that at this place the change of colour began, the people here being Mulattoes. I remarked too, that the greater part of their muskets had match-locks, and that not above one in five went off. The houses appear in neat order, but very low; and the walls are built in an irregular, but strong manner, of mud. Mr. Ritchie made the latitude of Sebha 27° 3′ 8″ north.

May 1st.—The Sultan, after many disputes respecting money matters, set off with us at 5.50. P.M. the camels having departed some hours sooner. Our road, after passing the palms, was still, as it had lately been, over a gravelly plain, having at intervals large black detached stones lying on it. At midnight the horsemen stopped, and at 1 A.M. the camels came up. We lay this night on a low plain, amongst some small sand hills, which were quite barren. As the camels arrived so late, there was great confusion in unloading them; and the men were too much occupied to pay any attention to the ladies in the Shiblias. Fatma, finding no helping hand near to assist her, boldly attempted to uncoach herself; but the exertion, owing to her excessive fat, caused her to fall, or rather roll off the camel, to the great amusement of the Arabs.

May 2nd.—At 6.45. proceeded on our way, and at 12 came into a wadey, having many palm bushes thickly growing about. A heavy sand wind was blowing, and the sun was quite obscured by it. My horse, taking fright at some object which he saw but indistinctly, reared up, and fell back with me under him. Happily, I only received a severe contusion on the arm. At 1.30. P.M. we arrived at Ghroodwa, غرودوه, a miserable collection of mud huts, containing about fifty people, who appeared a ragged drunken set, as the immense number of tapped palm trees testified. From the ruins of some large mud edifices, this place seems to have once been of more importance. The palms, which extend for ten or fifteen miles east and west, are the property of the Sultan, and appear in worse condition than any we have seen.

May 3rd.—At 6.30. A.M. we left Ghroodwa, and again entered on a barren stony plain; at 12 passed a small wadey called Wad el nimmel, وادالنمّل, (or the valley of ants), from the immense number of those insects, of a beautiful pink colour, which are found there. At 6.40. P.M. we cleared this dreary waste, and entered on a sandy plain, which was in many places thickly encrusted with salt. A few scattered palms, and some ill built and ruined huts, appeared at intervals, betokening the greatest wretchedness. At 8 reached a few buildings of this description, called Dgleim, ظليمر. At 11 the camels arrived. The inhabitants from all the neighbouring villages had assembled here; and I really believe more powder was expended at this place, than at any other we had passed through, although their muskets could not have amounted altogether to more than fifty. The Sultan repeatedly called out, “Enough, Enough!” but the natives only answered by fresh discharges, and exclaiming, “We have plenty of powder.” As I was walking across the little space in which they were exercising, one of the shooters, to do me honour, fired his piece at my legs, which being bare, received above a dozen coarse grains, like small shot. I bled a little, which quite frightened the man, lest he should be discovered. I, however, made light of it, and rubbed myself with salt and water.

The dancing ladies were indefatigable; and when I went to sleep at midnight, were making as much noise, and were as active as ever. Mr. Ritchie’s horse had for the last four or five days entirely failed him, and was unable even to keep pace with the camels: he did not come up with us until a little after midnight. As we were only at the distance of three hours from Morzouk, many of the people were occupied during the night in preparations for their entry into the capital.

May 4th.—At 7 A.M. having shaved, washed, and adorned ourselves in the finest clothes which we had at hand, we started. Mukni, however, unwilling that his new Mamlukes should be less fine than his own people, sent for two splendid bornouses, which he lent to Mr. Ritchie and myself for this grand occasion, making us ride on the right and left of him. Travelling over a desert plain, until 9.30. A.M. west by south, we entered the palm groves and gardens of Morzouk; we then saw a large body of horse and foot advancing, with three silk flags. When the horsemen came within five hundred yards of us, they set off at full speed, and on joining our party, threw themselves from their horses, and ran to kiss the Sultan’s hand. His eldest son, Sidi Aleiwa, سيدي عليوه, headed them; and after he had performed the same salutation, they all remounted and joined in the procession. On approaching the town we were joined by the dancers, drummers, and pipers. Two men stationed themselves on each side of the Sultan, bearing fans of ostrich feathers, with which they beat off the flies which incommoded him. We entered the town at 10.30. A.M. preceded by the led horses, and six silk flags. The horsemen having formed in two lines, in which I joined them, skirmished until we came to the gate.