Chapter III: Arrival at Morzouk (2)

We had many visits from these extraordinary people, who came to see us as curiosities, and minutely examined every thing we would allow them to handle. The report which they had heard of our great knowledge, and of our being able to look steadfastly at the sun, or in other words, to take celestial observations, brought large parties to our habitation, on whom we not unfrequently played a few tricks. Phosphorus astonished them beyond all measure; kaleidoscopes, and the camera obscura, also excited great amazement; but the compass was quite beyond their comprehension, so much so, that they generally were afraid to touch it. Our arms were more suited to their taste, and they took much pleasure in handling them. The pistols with stop locks were looked upon with great reverence, and a sword which I had, with a pistol in the handle, was considered so valuable, that I might have purchased with it a couple of Negresses. Our having a stock of medicines was a sufficient inducement for all our visitors to find themselves very ill, and to imagine not one, but every disorder of the country. One man had bad eyes; if he succeeded in getting something to relieve them, the whole party all began immediately to blink, and affect to be half blind, hoping also to get some medicine. Another had a liver complaint; the rest then were all so ill as to be unable to walk or to speak without a great many ejaculatory oh’s; and so on, until they had exhausted the whole chapter of ailments. We at first gave them medicine, but soon discovered it was a preconcerted plan to impose on us, and that when one set had obtained what they wanted, another brought forward a friend or two, who were exactly in the same miserable and suffering state as themselves, and equally disposed to deceive us. One begged a little physic to keep in store, another some sugar just to taste, a small piece for their wives as a curiosity, and a few lumps into the bargain for their children: a little writing paper for charms, a handful of tobacco, one of our nice knives, or a pair of scissars, or a little powder to show when they got home, with many other et cæteras, until our patience being completely exhausted, we were obliged, very unceremoniously, and much to their astonishment, to push the whole party out of the house. Many amusing incidents occurred on the score of medical knowledge, which showed the implicit confidence reposed in us.

During Mr. Ritchie’s illness, an old man, aged eighty, came to consult us about his back, which was very much bent, and had been so for many years: he had seen us give a liniment to a person who had sprained his ankle, which got well in a few days; and his request was, that some of the same medicine might be given him to strengthen his back, which, he said, was becoming very inconvenient to him. One of the Tuarick, who had taken a very strong dose of salts, brought a friend to interpret for him, as he understood but little Arabic, and begged to be told what he was to do to stop the effects of the dose, lest, not rightly understanding me, he might be in danger of dying on the road. A Negress of the Sultan’s chief man being sick, sent her armlet to Mr. Ritchie, by which he was to discover her disorder, and to send her the requisite medicine. The Sultan’s own women were continually sending little bottles for something to cause them to bear children, and their emissaries sometimes whispered whether it was a boy or girl that was desired. Mr. Ritchie prescribed for the whole of the Sultan’s establishment, which, with the males and females, might amount to at least a hundred. Numbers came or sent daily with such an air of authority, as led us to suppose that Mukni had spread a report of his paying liberally for Mr. Ritchie’s attentions, which was not the case; on the contrary, we were all day weighing out doses for the slaves, who never even thanked us for our trouble; and when we were poor and destitute of every comfort, Mukni never gave us the slightest assistance: if, however, any of his family required charms for their disorders, the writers were liberally rewarded, and the effect of the medicines always attributed to those charms. When I commanded at the laboratory, I took good care to give such doses as were not easily forgotten, and, in consequence, none of his household ever after sent for medicine, unless really ill. Many of the women required a great deal of explanation, as to how any thing taken into the stomach could relieve a head-ache. Purgatives were always despised in comparison with emetics. The allowance which would suffice for a strong European took no effect with them; but when a double dose was given, it pleased so much, that many requests were made for “Just such another dose as was given to such a one, which made him so sick that he almost died.” The prevalent disorder when a man wanted medicine for novelty’s sake was, being “ill all over.”

By the 20th August, Mr. Ritchie had tolerably recovered. Mukni had several times, during his illness, talked publicly of his great friendship for us, declaring, that if we were in want even of a thousand dollars, he would immediately lend them: but his conduct was in direct contradiction to his professions; for although he visited Mr. Ritchie during his illness, he never offered him the least assistance, or even bestowed such trifling articles of nourishment as I requested. Once, and once only, when rice was not to be bought, he, with great parade, sent a quart, on which the poor invalid dined for eight days.

It became indeed but too apparent that he expected and wished us all to die, in which case he would have seized on, and appropriated all our effects and merchandise to his own use: of the latter, we had a great quantity, which Mr. Ritchie would not allow me to dispose of, lest it should lower us in the eyes of the natives; but I thought it could be of little consequence when compared with our lives, which were so perpetually endangered by want and privation. We had in vain tried to dispose of our horses; they were so lean, (and we had no money with which to buy any provision to fatten them) that no one would even look at them.

I had managed to keep my own in rather better case than the others, by giving him our travelling baskets, and occasionally stealing a little food for him, but still he was not sale-worthy. In this situation were our affairs, when in one of our visits to the Sultan, Mr. Ritchie ventured to ask from him the loan of some money: his answer, though a negative, was couched in very plausible and friendly terms; and he assured us, by the name of God, that we were welcome to all he had in the world, but that the Bashaw had lately exacted so much from him, that he had not a single dollar remaining. It happened, however, that on the preceding day, he had, to our certain knowledge, received 4000, which were deposited in the very chest against which he leant, whilst he uttered these falsehoods. Finding that nothing was to be gained at this visit, we retired in utter disappointment, not knowing where else to apply.

Belford, at this time, was attacked with giddiness and deafness, and fell into a very weak state. Our situation was daily becoming more deplorable in all respects; our rate of living was reduced to one saa, or quart of corn per diem, with occasionally a few dates, amongst four of us. Mukni’s spy, about this time, came and made some very mean offers, (but which Mr. Ritchie thought proper to reject) about purchasing our cloth and gunpowder, and we plainly perceived he was negotiating for the Sultan. We had endeavoured, indeed, to sell some of our merchandise, by offering it somewhat cheaper than the people of the country; but no one would actually buy, or even propose for it, and we then became convinced, that Mukni was the cause of all our distresses; he, however, still continued to call on us, proffering kindness which he never intended to fulfil.

Being now reduced to the last extremity, and Mr. Ritchie not thinking it right to draw for money on the Treasury, I drew a bill on my own private account, for £20, with which we proceeded immediately to the Sultan, hoping it would have the desired effect: Mr. Ritchie having at the former interview explained to them, that if he accommodated us with 80 dollars, and sent the draft to his (the Sultan’s) wife, who was then resident in Tripoli, she would instantly receive the amount from the British consul. He still, however, refused to assist us; when on a sudden, artfully pretending to mistake 8 for 80, he exclaimed, “Well! I did not think it necessary to draw a written agreement for so small a sum; I will, however, advance you the eight dollars you require, and you may return them when convenient.” Farther explanation to a man determined not to understand was wholly useless, and our poverty not allowing us to refuse the sum, however small, we accepted it; and immediately employed part of our newly acquired riches in treating ourselves with a little meat.

Though we knew not where to procure farther pecuniary aid, we were, for the moment, happy, and soon after had reason to be more so. We had, on coming to Morzouk, lent to our neighbour, Hadje Mahmoud, 20 dollars, of which he paid us 10; and now, in the moment of need, brought us the remainder. At this critical period, it acquired tenfold value, and was of course received with thankfulness and delight.

In this unexpected improvement of our circumstances, we determined to fatten our horses for sale, and to purchase some fowls and a milch ewe, as a resource against future illness. We frequently rode out to the gardens near the town, and Mr. Ritchie became again tolerably well, though I observed, with much regret, that his late and frequent disorders appeared to have very materially depressed his spirits, insomuch, that he almost constantly remained secluded in his own apartment, silent, unoccupied, and averse to every kind of society.

At the end of this month, a large Kafflé of Arabs, Tripolines, and Tibboo, arrived from Bornou, bringing with them 1400 slaves of both sexes and of all ages, the greater part being females. Several smaller parties had preceded them, many of whom also brought slaves. We rode out to meet the great kafflé, and to see them enter the town—it was indeed a piteous spectacle! These poor oppressed beings were, many of them, so exhausted as to be scarcely able to walk; their legs and feet were much swelled, and by their enormous size, formed a striking contrast with their emaciated bodies. They were all borne down with loads of fire-wood; and even poor little children, worn to skeletons by fatigue and hardships, were obliged to bear their burthen, while many of their inhuman masters rode on camels, with the dreaded whip suspended from their wrists, with which they, from time to time, enforced obedience from these wretched captives. Care was taken, however, that the hair of the females should be arranged in nice order, and that their bodies should be well oiled, whilst the males were closely shaven, to give them a good appearance on entering the town. Their dresses were simply the usual cotton wrappers, and even these, in many instances, were so torn, as scarcely to cover them. We observed one girl (of what country I know not) who had her back and shoulders burned in little sprigs, in a very curious manner, so as to resemble figured silk; it had a very pretty appearance, and must have been done when she was quite an infant. Some of the women carried little children on their backs, some of whom were so small, that they must have been born on the road.

The Tibboo, who bring the slaves from Bornou, are of the tribes on the road; and some are from Fezzan. They never trade to Soudan, on account of the distance; but prefer exchanging their slaves for horses, which they sell to great advantage in the interior: for though there are horses in Bornou, they are not much esteemed; but those of Tripoli are greatly valued. The Tibboo ride on saddles, resembling in some respects our English ones; but they are smaller, and have a high peak in front: their stirrups resemble ours, but they do not put the whole foot in them, only the four small toes, the great one remaining out; their shoes are all contrived for this purpose, by having a separate division for a great toe, and are made in the same manner as childrens’ mittens. Their bridles are also in our style, being much lighter than those of the Arabs. They are more careful of their horses than of their families, sparing no expense to fatten them; this is done by cramming them with large balls of meal or dough, which are considered highly nourishing. A fine horse will, in the Negro country, sell for 10 or 15 Negresses; each of which, at the Barbary ports, is worth from 80 to 150 dollars.

All the traders speak of slaves as farmers do of cattle. Those recently brought from the interior were fattening, in order that they might be able to go on to Tripoli, Benghazi, or Egypt: thus a distance of 1600 or 1800 miles is to be traversed, from the time these poor creatures are taken from their homes, before they can be settled; whilst in the Interior they may, perhaps, be doomed to pass through the hands of eight or ten masters, who treat them well or ill, according to their pleasure. These devoted victims fondly hoping that each new purchaser may be the last, find perhaps that they have again to commence a journey equally long and dreary with the one they have just finished, under a burning sun, with new companions, but with the same miseries.

The females are always considered as bearing fatigue much better than the males; perhaps because their small allowance of food and water more easily suffices them. I have always observed that the men were more miserable in their appearance, and walked with more difficulty than the women.

Having been enabled to collect a great deal of information from Bornou traders, respecting that country, I shall here detail it; but I have to request my readers to bear in mind, that I only report what I have heard, and refrain from giving any opinion as to the Course of the Niger, having so often found how little the accounts concerning it are to be credited. I certainly have formed my own conjectures; but may be mistaken, as better theorists than myself have been, on that most interesting subject.

COUNTRY OF BORNOU,

AS COLLECTED FROM TRADERS.

_Bornou Language._
One Teelo
Two Andee
Three Yaskoo
Four Daigoo
Five Oogoo
Six Araskoo
Seven Tuller
Eight Oskoo
Nine Lekār
Ten Maigoo
Twenty Maigoo lata Maigoo
Hundred Jarroo
Man Kooa
Woman Mata
Father Abbah
Mother Yany
Head Kela
Eyes Shim
Nose Kensha
Hair Kondoly
Teeth Timmi
Belly Soro
Hand Moskoo
Foot Shie
Blood Boo
Day Koo
Night Booné
Sleep Koonem
Dead Nowy
White Bull
Black Tsellm
Sun Koo
Moon Kengāl
Stars Shilluga
Stone Kow
Good Unglla
Fire Kanno
Water Ankee
Earth Shiddi
Bird Ongoodo
Egg Engoôbble
Fish Boney
Camel Kalgāmoo
Cow Faï
God Allah الله

Bornou is a large tract of country, 40 days’ journey, or about 700 miles, south of Fezzan. It is bounded on the east by Baghermi, on the west by Kano كنّو, and to the northward by Kanem. Few traders ever go due south of Bornou, and are therefore unable to speak of the countries in that direction. There are many contradictions respecting the principal town, called Birnie برني; or more properly, Birnie Jedeed or new Birnie, to distinguish it from another town, called Gedeem or _old_.

These towns are five days east and west of each other, and the River Tsād runs near them both. The old town is the most to the westward, and is now nearly forsaken. In consequence of its vicinity to the Fellāta, who were masters of Soudan, it was constantly exposed to Ghrazzies, or incursions for the purpose of carrying off the natives; and even single inhabitants were often seized and dragged from their labour by small marauding parties, who lay in ambush for them. It was therefore determined about eight years since, to build a new town more in the centre of their country, and to forsake what had been their capital from the earliest times in which they were known.

Thus it is that the accounts received are often materially different: those who have visited the old town, giving their distances from it, whilst more recent traders speak only of the new one. All the distances I have laid down are from the last.

From Birnie to Baghermi is ten days to the borders, S.E. Looggan, a town of Bornou, is half way, or five days; and the Tsād runs past it, across the road, in such a way, that those going to Baghermi must necessarily pass it. This river runs from S.W. to N.E. is of great breadth, and is crossed by heavy goods being carried on rafts, floated on large gourds, which are impelled forward by swimmers, who hold or push with one hand whilst they strike with the other. Smaller rafts are used to carry four or five men, or some light goods; these, according to my informants, are formed with cross spars and gourds. The men sit astride on this machine, having their legs in the water, and so propel themselves forward with their hands and feet. A lighter vehicle is used for one man, and is merely a spar on two flat gourds, carried on by paddling with the feet and a small oar.

I learnt with astonishment, that though the river has many crocodiles, they never attack the legs of people passing in this manner. Whether the raft or the bright yellow of the gourds intimidates them I cannot tell, but so it is.

The river, according to the natives, is said to run past Foor— (Dar fur of Brown), and thence to Egypt. Horses are swam over, being buoyed up with inflated water-skins slung round them; and camels are conducted by men who hold them by their long upper lips, and keep their heads above water: the forepart of that animal being the heaviest, another man sits behind the hump, in order to raise the fore and depress the hinder parts, whilst crossing.

Almost every account we received of the Tsād was so materially different, that it long remained a puzzle to us, how to account for such palpable errors as some of our informers must have fallen into. Some declared it to be so large a Lake, that the opposite side of it could not be seen from Birnie; others termed it an inconsiderable river: at last, the nephew of the Kadi, who had just arrived, furnished us with the following clear statement. “The Tsād is not a river, but an immense Lake, into which many streams discharge themselves after the summer rains. It is then, for some months, of such extent, that the opposite shores cannot be seen, and the people catch many fish, and go about on it in boats. In the early part of the spring, when the great heats come on, it soon changes its appearance, and dries up, with the exception of a small rill. This streamlet, which runs through the centre of its bed, is called by the same name, and comes from the westward, taking an easterly direction; but to what place he knows not.”

All the inhabitants of the villages on the borders of the Lake go out and sow corn and esculent vegetables, which come to maturity, and are gathered in before the rainy season, as in Egypt, after the flowing of the Nile, which he has seen. He had himself observed the people getting in their harvest on the same ground which he had, only a few months before, known to be covered with water.

The rivers which, he says, flow into the lake after the rains, appear to be torrents from the mountains, as he never observed more than the small stream I have mentioned in the dry season.

The Tsād is also called the Gambarro after it quits Birnie, and even there it is as frequently called the Nil. Until a few years ago, when the country became much improved under the mild government of a very religious Moslem, it was the custom to throw into the stream at the time of its rise a virgin richly dressed, and of superior beauty. The greatest people of the country considered themselves honoured if the preference was given to one of their daughters, and the learned men augured a good or bad year from the ease or difficulty with which their victim was drowned.

There are several tribes of wandering Tibboo to the northward of Bornou, the principal of which are the Wandela, Gunda, and Traïta. These people are principally Kaffirs: they do not trade, but live by their flocks, and not unfrequently by pillage.

To the eastward of Bornou, near Baghermi, is a country called Mandra, which is tributary to Bornou, but does not escape the incursions for slaves, which are frequently made by its nominal protectors. The language of this country is a corrupt dialect of the Bornou. The people are finely formed, and the females have lively intelligent countenances: they are all Kaffirs, and live in huts of grass, woven like mats, and sewed together, called Booshīa.

I shall have occasion, when speaking of the country of the Tibboo, to mention three rivers of note which I am able to trace to some distance at ten days to the north of Wadāy.

I now return to the accounts of the bearings of several places of note from Bornou.

Birnie Jedeed to

Baghermi, ten long days, east-south-east.

Maoo, principal town of Kanem, fifteen days, north-north-east.

Kanno, ten days, west.

Kooka, fifteen days, east by south.

Kattagum, four days, west-south-west.

Ringhem, nine days, west-south-west.

Shaikoo, two days, west.

Kawar, ten days, north-eastward.

Bilma, fifteen days, north-eastward.

Makaree, eight days, east-south-east.

Ongornoo, fourteen days, east by south.

Zegzeg, fifteen days, south-west.

Zakari, eight days, westerly.

Waday, sixteen days, easterly.

Bahr el Ghazal (south part), ten days, east-north-east.

Kashna, sixteen days, west.

Morzouk, forty days, north.

At Kattagum, a river called Nil by the natives flows across the road from Bornou to Kashna to the north-east. It is of great magnitude, and is passed on rafts; the water is sweet, and full of fish. It rises periodically, and sometimes overflows the country.

Ongornoo is situated within a day of Kooka, and is much frequented by traders in the spring, when a large market is held there, principally for slaves, who are brought from all the surrounding countries in security; a general armistice prevailing during the annual sale. It is subject to Bornou: the people are Mohammedans. A river flows past it to the eastward.

Bahr el Ghazal, the south part of which is about ten days east-north-east of Birnie, runs nearly north-east and south-west for a great distance. It is inhabited by Negro tribes, of whom the greater part are Kaffirs, or, at all events, not Moslems. The nearest part of it to Bornou is about ten days east-north-east. It is an immense wadey, or valley full of trees, and having many inhabitants, who are wanderers. Elephants, rhinoceroses, lions, buffaloes, and the camelopard, or giraffe, called Jimel Allah جمل الله, or God’s camel, by the Arabs, are in great numbers. The natives generally use a kind of corrupt Arabic, though one or two languages peculiar to the country are also spoken.

These people are a fine race, well made, and very active. They wear their hair, which is not woolly, long and plaited. The general dress is leather, but some go entirely naked. The cattle are in such numbers, that parts of the country appear literally covered with them. Great quantities of elephants’ teeth are procured in the woods.

All the accounts of this country agree in one material point, namely, that though called Bahr, there is no river; but that there has been one of great magnitude. Immense bones of unknown animals and fish are frequently found here in a state of petrifaction. The Arabs account for this, by saying, “They went to take them up as bones, but by a deception of Iblis they proved to be stones.” Handsome shells, Beit el Khoot, بيت الخوت or “fishes’ houses,” are often found imbedded in the earth, and retaining a fine polish. Some are so large, that the Negroes make trumpets of them. By their description of the bones and vertebræ, some of the fish must have been ten or twelve feet in length.

Battalïa, which is often called Bahr, appears by some accounts to be near Bahr el Ghazal, while others assert that it is part of it. The same accounts of its having once been a river, and of petrified bones being found in it, are generally believed.

Bornou is governed by a Sultan, who is considered very powerful; but of late years he has allowed the Sheikh of Kanem (which country is dependant) to encroach upon his authority. The Sheikh, who is a great Marāboot, never uses gold or silver in his apparel, and confines himself to four wives; but has several female slaves, who have borne him a multitude of children. He is constantly making war, under the plea of religion, against the neighbouring Kaffirs, and has enriched himself by the immense number of slaves and horses which he has taken. He lives at Kanem, in the chief town Maoo, which is fifteen days north-north-east of Birnie: his name is El Hadge el Ameen. All the traders from Fezzan carry him presents, and consider him as a far greater man than his master, who now lives in a very retired manner.

In Kanem, within one day of Maoo (the capital), is a very large river, which comes from the south-west, and runs to the north-east. It is deep, broad, and full of fish, which the natives dry in the sun, and keep in store for the rainy season; it is called by the people of the country Yaoo, but by the Moorish traders, Nil.

On Mukni’s last excursion in that direction, he made an attack on the defenceless people of Kanem, Moslem as well as Kaffir: and having first burnt their town, pursued them to the banks of the river; many were drowned in attempting to cross it; others were taken out of the water; and the women and children who had not the power of escaping, were caught on the banks; the number of captives made on that day amounting to 1800. The route of Mukni’s army on its return, was over a wide sandy desert, without water for three days. During their journey a tremendous wind arose, which blew the sand about in all directions, and continued to rage in so furious a manner during two entire days, that Mukni and his people were totally at a loss in what direction to proceed. On the second evening, however, it was resolved that a number of the captives should be sent on under a small guard; but many of these poor creatures expired by the way: the remaining few succeeded in finding a watering place. Mukni himself remained until the third morning; when the sand wind still continuing, and his impatience increasing in proportion to the delay, he gave an order that all the remaining slaves should be put to death. This cruel mandate was immediately executed in cold blood on three hundred defenceless beings, whose country he had first entered under the mask of friendship, pretending that he came only to wage war against some states which had injured them. This aggravated cruelty and treachery was therefore the more odious; and his very name, in consequence, is never mentioned by the people of that country without curses on himself and ancestors, which even little children are taught to utter as soon as they can speak. This war on Kanem set the wild tribes in motion, and a ferment arose, which, even three years after, was not appeased. The Sheikh of Kanem, whom I have already mentioned, was fortunate enough, on this dreadful occasion, to escape to Birnie, many of his family having fallen sacrifices to Mukni’s barbarity.

In Bornou there is current a small copper coin of little value, which is struck in the country. Gold is also used, but more generally as an ornament, than as an object of exchange. The people are called Believers, but a great part of them are Kaffirs. Their dresses, in the most civilized parts, are of cotton. Their arms are lances, bows, and arrows: the Sheikh and a few of the Sultan’s guards have muskets; but they are unable to make good powder. It is reported, that in Birnie are 60,000 horsemen, who have armour for themselves and horses, which are small but hardy, and are said not to run as other horses do, but to spring forward by repeated bounds: large ones are in great request, and are chiefly purchased from the Fezzan traders. Wedda, ودّه or cowrie shells, are not used as money, but as ornaments, and bands for the head. The country is very fertile, producing corn and fruits; amongst others the Tamarind, طمر الهندي, or fruit of the Indies. The woods are numerous, and the trees very large and shady: from these the boards are brought on which prayers are written, and children taught to read.

From Tegerry to Kanem is 20 days south by east; Kanem to Bornou is 15 south by west. Many of the Kafflés pass over the countries of the Tibboo, and through the desert of Bilma, from whence they enter on the borders of Bornou. As I intend speaking of these places on a future occasion, the routes I shall there mention may be taken as the nearest.

OF KASHNA AND SOUDAN IN GENERAL.—FROM MORZOUK TO KASHNA.

South-west by south.
Morzouk to Akraf 14 days.
Akraf to Felezlis 4
Felezlis to Tadent 4
Tadent to Assieu 6
Assieu to Trajeet 4
Trajeet to Seloofia 2
Seloofia to Āghades 2
Āghades to Begzam 3
Begzam to Ghrulghīwa 3
Ghrulghiwa to Tagama 7
Tagama to Kashna 7
--
56 days, of 20 miles per diem.

Āghades is a large district, having a town of the same name; it is 36 days from Morzouk in summer, and in winter is sometimes 45. It is 15 or 20 days from Kashna; 20 from Bornou; 6 from Asouda; 3 or 4 from Begzam; 30 in summer, and 35 or 40 in winter, from Ghraat; and 40 from Tuat. The inhabitants are Tuarick of the tribe of Kellewi. It is a larger town than Morzouk; the houses are of mud, and are built in the same style, and of the same size, as in Fezzan: some have a kind of second story. It is surrounded by a wall of mud and stone, of sufficient strength to protect it. There is a very high Mouadden or Minaret to the principal mosque, which the Tuarick affect to consider higher than any in Egypt. The country is independent, and is governed by a Sheikh, who is a Mulatto, and of middle age, named Yusuffah. He is considered as great a man as the Sultan of Fezzan. Dome dates are in great plenty: the common ones are scarce, and never arrive at any degree of perfection. The soil of the country is earth, not sand, and is quite covered with grass. There are large trees, chiefly the Talhh. Corn and vegetables are in plenty, and animal food is very cheap. The people are rigid Moslems.

Kashna is 20 days from Noofy. I here give an account of the road, as we received it from a friend of Horneman’s, who is well acquainted with Soudan.

{Kashna to Yandekka. {Yandekka to Doogroomakee. {Doogroomakee to Zurmee, a very large town. {Zurmee to Faoushee, or Zanfara. {Faoushee to Doofa Mafora. West{Doofa Mafora to Thalata noma. {Thalata noma to Bacoora. {Bacoora to Gandee. {Gandee to Burnee dengāda. {Burnee dengāda to Sakkatoo, a large Fellata town. {Sakkatoo to Mifferadaati; from whence several small towns are passed until Noofy, which is a country on the borders of the Nil. Its chief town is Bakkanee; and it was there that Horneman died, in the house of a man called Ali el Felatni. Our informant gave the following account of his having accompanied Horneman from Morzouk to that place. They first became acquainted in Fezzan, from whence they went together with a large Kafflé to Bornou, when they separated. After Horneman had resided three or four months there, they again met in a Kafflé going to Kashna, and associated much together. The people became greatly attached to Horneman, on account of his amiable deportment and skill in medicine; and he was generally considered as a Marāboot. After a short time they proceeded with another party of merchants to Noofy, living together in the house of a man named Ali, of the tribe Fellata. It was Horneman’s custom while on his journeys after quitting Fezzan, to note down the bearings of every tree, mountain, or village, he saw; by which means he might be more easily enabled to know his road again without a guide. His intention was to go on through Dagomba to Ashantee, which is forty days’ journey to the southward. When our merchant left Noofy, he was in good health and spirits, and had not experienced any difficulties; but this man, on arriving in Kashna, heard that Horneman had died of dysentery, a few days after their separation.

The clearest account I have yet heard of the rivers which flow near Kashna is from a person named Mustapha, a son of the old Mamluke who, with his two other sons, was strangled by Mukni. This man fled, and spent some years in Soudan. He has himself passed three rivers, all running from _east_ to _west_, as he thinks; but will not be positive. One alone is very considerable; fish, alligators, and hippopotami, being found in it. It is very deep, and is passed in boats, and by rafts. He mentions the rivers in the following order:

Kashna to the river Ringhem is seven days east. This river is the smallest; it is deep, but narrow; water quite fresh. A town, called Sankara, is distant one day east.

From Kashna to the river Doodroo is six days nearly south. On this river are canoes, which are hollowed out of a single tree: they have sharp bottoms, not rounded. They are numerous, and serve equally well for fishing, and for ferry-boats from shore to shore.

From Kashna to Kattagum (which again appears east-north-east on the road to Bornou) south-east is ten days. This river is at all times large; but after the rains it overflows the country. During the inundation the natives use rafts floated on gourds, which grow to an extraordinary size. A quantity of these are scooped out, and lashed together; a deck is then formed of brushwood, or bundles of rushes.

The only palpable inaccuracy in his account (and which, indeed, is a great one) is that relating to the course of these rivers: he was by no means certain whether they flowed to or from the east, and always concluded by saying, that he never had thought it worth while to remember the circumstance.

From Kashna to Sakkatoo is nine days and a half west. This place is the residence of Bello, son of the celebrated Fellata chief Hatman Danfodio. It is a walled town of much consideration, three days east of Gooberr, which is also a Fellata town, and one day east of Kebbi (the Cabi of our maps.) The natives are now a settled people, but were once wanderers of the warlike tribe of Fellata, who, some years since, came from the west, and succeeded in overcoming the whole of Soudan, carrying their conquests as far as old Birnie, and causing the Sultan and his people to remove five days farther to the eastward. These conquests have, in the end, occasioned their ruin; for not having it in their power to continue a force in each subjugated country, they became scattered, and were easily driven back by the different tribes who had been subject to them. They now are not found (except in small parties) farther east than Kashna. Their complexion being of a much lighter hue than that of the other tribes, they call themselves white; their colour resembles that of our gipsies in England.

Many female slaves are brought to Morzouk from their nation, and are very handsome women. The men I have never seen, and I understand that in the late wars all the male prisoners were put to death. They walk very erect, and have rather a haughty expression of countenance. These people have been of late chiefly at war with the Tuarick, who are powerful enemies, and harass them continually.

Kashna is still in a great measure dependant on Bello, who appoints its Kaid or Governor. This man is named Mellona Amarroo Delagie, and assumes the title of Sultan in his master’s absence. He makes constant incursions on the countries round him, and is much dreaded; though he sometimes suffers severely from retaliations. His family consists of two hundred Negresses, and the same number of children, which they have borne him. I conceive from a vocabulary, which I subjoin, that the Fellata will be found to be the Foulah of Park: they call themselves Fellan.

From a young woman, who arrived direct from Sakkatoo, I obtained some trifling information. The account she gave of herself was, that as she was leading her cows out to feed, a party of Gooberr people (also Fellata, and subject to the same King), seized and brought her away; but meeting on their progress with some Tuarick, she was sold to them. Her complexion was fair, and she had an intelligent countenance; her legs were much swelled, and her form emaciated. She was called into her master’s presence to give me some words of her language, when I began by asking her how she named a man in her country: thinking I wished to know that of her husband, she looked up, and with tears in her eyes, answered, “Mohammed; but he is alone now;” and then added, “I had a little boy, too, called Mohammed; when I was stolen he had no teeth, and I know not who will suckle him.”

I here subjoin the words she taught me.

Man Efillo.
Woman Debbo.
Boy Pipullo.
Girl Bitadeppo.
Small Toccochu.
Heavy Teddoodoo.
Light Oodumhaïneddi.
I understand Andal.
Hand Jungo.
Head Hora.
Sun Naanga.
Moon Laighroo.
Stars Caudie.
Meat Niri.
Flesh Taïoo.
Horse Pootchio.
Cow Nagga.
Ass Babba.
Camel Gailopa.
Goat Baïa.
Sheep Baloo.
Dog Kootooroo.
Walk Jiadoo.
Sleep Fokadaan.
Come Warr.
Go Beadillo.
Good Oodonwodi.
Bad Kalloodoo.
Large Maoodoo.
River Lana.
Eat Aniami.
Drink Ghiarki.
Sweet Oodomwaili.
Sour Oodomlammi.
Heaven Samaachi.
Father Babama.
Mother Imāma.
Elder brother Maoona.
Younger brother Minia.
Sister Bānda.
Grandfather Mamama.
Wife Tirajumma.
Friend Haigomo.
Foot Koinka.
Leg Korla.
I do not Mianda.
Milk Koossum.
Mat Dago.
Carpet Baïtookki.
Pillow Ting ada.
I Mahan.
You Maan.
He Damaitoo.
Shirt Toggora.
Trowsers Serla.
Gold Laamdi.
Iron Yamgoo.
Corn Elcamarani.
Maize Baïra.
Gussub Gaouri.
Tree Barkihi.
Wood Leddi.
Water Ghium.
Fire Eeta.
God Allah.
House Oora.
Town Gerri.
Bowl Laa.
A well Oondoo.
Water Ghium.
Rope Bogool.
Bucket Kianga.
Book Deftera.
To-day Ilanda nundi.
To-morrow Tiango.
Yesterday Fadijiango.
Not yet Towli.
I am ill Tyawdoo.
I am well Hairama.
Beads Kaadeh.
Petticoat Oodarra.
Aba Godori.
Thigh Asanga.
Arm Kiauwall ghisingo.
Belly Kraigoo.
Back Baoo.
Breast Barendi.
Neck Daandi.
Nipples Endoo.
Fingers Honedoo.
Cap Hoffanaïra.
Cat Mussouroo.
Shoes Paddi.
Beard Wari.
Eye Gitta.
Nose Hinari.
Mouth Kondookkoo.
Forehead Teeda.
Ear Leppi.
Turban Maitello.
Blood Eia.
Bones Kial.
Burn Awli.
Roast Awoodi.
Hot Odunwooli.
Cold Dumfai.
Hungry Ïam.
I am full Mihāri.
Thirsty Nanadumka.
This Doondo.
Give Okon.
Take Gabboo.
Fat Paidoo.
Thin Fautdo.
Dirty Toondi.
Clean Loomram mitell.
Tired Ensoomi.
Language Bolli.
Sword Kansakali.
Stone Booddi.
Sand Jearidi.
Earth Laidi.
Red Bodaijo.
White Daraijiu.
Black Balaijiu.
Green Koraijiuna.
Yellow Jianajiu.
Get up and go Ummadillo.
Grass Koodoo.
Hard Uddumyori.
Soft Oodum haihaitirri.
How are you Mia Loodoo.
Well Noobāndoo.
Whence come Kai ooaidi.
Where going Tingailta.
Is he within Uden wodi.
He is not Unwalla.
Garden Engassa.
Run Endogga.
Quick Ommandillo.
Enough Doodoo.
A little Sedda.
To weave Sansanbi.
Flour Kiandi.
Pepper Syasi.
Poor Kolakomi.
Rich Waidande.
Honey Jumeri.
Bird Soodoo.
Fowl Gertooka.
Pigeon Umfoodi sondo.
Set down Jiaura.
Night Ghem.
Morning Dun waidi.
Day Hansi.
Lion Jagerri.
Arrow Lebbo.
Glass Karroo.
Spoon Gerbal.
Pot Footira.
Knife Lab.
Spear Ghembirri.
Dagger Labijungo.
Gun Bendiga.
Rain Ghium ghiwondi.
Brass Yamgo daikoo.
Tiger Melaho.
Antelope Lelwa.
Happy Well well ti.
I am sad Berna metti.
Sing Ghimmoo.
Dance Fidio.
Fear Dooba.
Teeth Nïa.
I thank you Allah imoghni.

Bello, son, as I have said, of the celebrated Fellata Chief, is famed for many very noble actions, and is a man generally beloved. He is a great warrior, and the people about him are very well armed and appointed. He does not, like the other chiefs, seek out the gaudy dresses and toys brought by the Kafflés, but buys up arms of all descriptions. Reverence for his religion, and for those who are eminent in it, are amongst his virtues. I was acquainted with a man who passed himself off as a Shreef, which he was not, and who had been plundered by the Tuarick. Bello actually presented to this impostor one hundred Negresses, thinking that he only offered a slight testimony of respect to the memory of the Prophet in the person of his pretended descendant.

Cowries, or shells, are the current money of Kashna, and all the towns westward: 2000 is the exchange for a dollar. By way of showing their comparative value, it may be mentioned, that a fowl costs five shells, a sheep 600, and a bullock 2500. Corn, rice, and, indeed, all the necessaries of life, are very cheap in Soudan. Rice is purchased at one dollar for 3 cwt. Bullocks are used to carry burthens, and to bring the grain home from the fields. The asses are fine animals, the camels scarce, and dear in some parts.

The people are excellent workers in wood and leather, which they prepare equally well as Europeans, dying it of very fine colours, and sometimes glazing it. Pillows, bags, sandals, jars, and even boxes of leather are brought by the Kafflés, and sold very cheap. Bowls composed of wood, or gourds, are finely carved, and much sought after by the Fezzan traders.

The women make very fine cotton cloth of gay patterns (having generally a great proportion of blue), and of firm texture; but it is remarkable that they never exceed in breadth three inches. Shirts made of these cloths are so very neatly sewed, that it is impossible at first sight to discover the seams.

The natives of Soudan are very ignorant; the few among them who can read find it their interest to make a great display of their knowledge. A man who reads is always respected, and becomes a person of great consideration; his presence being frequently sought for at a high price at births or marriages, in order to prevent the attendance of the devil, who immediately flies from a man capable of reading from the Koran. The power of writing charms, or saffis, is a sure step to riches.

About half the population on the banks of the Nil are Mohammedans in outward forms, but are unacquainted with every part of their religion except the prayers; some, indeed, are quite ignorant even of these, and only acknowledge the unity of God and the excellence of the Prophet. The other half are Pagans. Some nations have no idea of worship, or of a Supreme Being; others pray to the devil; and many are idolaters, and pay homage to any striking object in nature.

All the nations south of the Waters are said to be unbelievers, and to live in a state of nature, resembling in their appearance, manners, and habitations, wild beasts rather than men.

The Moslems have a greater share of superstition and vices than those they call their blind neighbours, and seldom undertake any thing without being first fortified by charms. They are constantly fancying themselves bewitched, attribute every unpleasant occurrence to Iblis; and are so fearful of the “Evil Eye,” that they adopt many strange precautions to avert its baneful effects.

In justice to the poor unenlightened beings whom they make their prey, I must say that I never witnessed such innocence, tenderness, and mildness as most of them evince when brought to Morzouk, particularly at the death of any of their companions in adversity. On these occasions they do not, like their persecutors, scream and make an insincere wailing; but sit silent and in tears, and often refuse their little allowance of food. Should one of the females fall sick, the others nurse, feed, comfort, and very often give up the whole of their scanty meal to the sufferer. I speak merely of the women, for the men are not blessed with very kind hearts; and it would be considered by them as disgraceful to betray any soft and tender feeling. Should a woman have an infant belonging to her, each of her companions in turn will carry and endeavour to amuse it. The women very seldom become sullen, and are lively without being at all boisterous or noisy; they are clean in their persons, very fond of ornaments, tractable and easily taught; but in acquiring knowledge they unfortunately lose much of their native simplicity.

_Kashna to Sakkatoo._
West.
Kashna to Zumma 1 day.
Zumma to Kalawa 3
Kalawa to Gadaya ½
Gadaya to Kararee 2 days.
Kararee to Tekamoorāfa 2
Tekamoorāfa to Sakkatoo 1
--
Total 9½ days.

Two days farther west is Kebbi; half a day from which is a large town called Bodinga.

Kashna to Gooberr five or six days west by south. This is a principal Fellāta town, and was for some years the residence of their Sultan. The houses are built in streets, surrounded by a wall, and the adjacent country is very fine. Three days east-north-east of Kashna is Tessawa, a town.

_From Kashna into Bornou._
East.
Kashna to Sabongaree 1 day.
Sabongaree to Roma 1
Roma to Beshi 1
Beshi to Kanno 1

Kanno is fourteen days from Birnie; it is governed by a Sultan, and is a town of note.

North.
Kashna to Gayzaa 1 day.
Gayzaa to Zakari 1
Zakari to Ringhem 1

Here is a river of the same name, which comes from the countries south of Kashna.

East.
Ringhem to Gongā 1 day.
Gongā to Mayga 1 producing many dome dates.
Mayga to Awyek 1
Awyek to Kattagum 1

Here the Nil, Goulbi, or Kattagum, passes from behind Kashna about thirteen days south. It runs north-east at this place, and must be crossed.

East.
Kattagum to Zoomawa 1 day.
Zoomawa to Gizzra ½
Gizzra to Ibrahim Zubbo ½

There is a tribe of Arabs here whose dwelling-place is called Bled Ibrahim Zubbo, from the Sheikh who first established them as a tribe. They are dark men without the negro features.

North.
Ibrahim Zubbo to Dowrā. 1 day.
Dowrā to Kalāwa 1

East.
Kalāwa to Shackow 1 day.
Shackow to Bayankalāwa 1
Bayankalāwa to Demetro 1

Kashna is four days east of Zanfara. To the north-east of Kashna three days is a country (not a town) called Daura. The natives are Kaffirs, very numerous, and constantly preyed on by the Fellata. Kebbi is three days north-east of Bakkanee, the chief town of Noofy. Kooka (the Cauga of the maps) is thirty days east by south of Kashna; it is much exposed to the incursions of the people of Waday. Kanno is four days east of Kashna, from which town Zegzeg is four or five days south-west. Yagooba is six days south of the latter place. Yemyem is the Lamlam of the maps. The inhabitants are reputed to be cannibals, and from a circumstance which came under my notice, I have no doubt they are so. A friend of mine had a male slave who came from that country, and who was about ten years of age. I desired a person, who spoke a language understood by the boy, to ask him, as if undesignedly, which part of a man was considered to taste best in his country. He immediately and readily answered, “The breast, which is eaten by the men; the other parts being given to the women and children.” But on further questioning him, it appeared he did not know whether the victims were prisoners or natives.

This country joins Zegzeg to the southward; it is of great extent, and the people are reported to live in a state of nature. Yagooba borders on Yemyem, six days south of Zegzeg. Marādi is a country lying half-way between Kashna and Gooberr, now nearly depopulated by the constant attacks of the Fellāta. The natives are Kaffirs, and go naked, with the exception of a leather wrapper round their loins. They are a very handsome race of people. Tirka in Soudan appears not to be known. There is a watering place of the Tibboo in Borgoo, called Tirki.

Tuat is mentioned in many maps as a town; but it is a large tract of country on the borders of Soudan, inhabited chiefly by Tuarick. It is situated on the Great Desert, and is not very fertile. Fine horses are bred there, and the flocks are numerous. The natives trade with Tembuctoo, Soudan, Ghadams, and Fezzan, but seldom go so far east as Bornou. The chief length of the country is from north to south, and the towns bear very nearly in that direction to each other. The houses are built of stone and mud, and have no second story; many of the towns are walled. Ain el Salah, or the Fountain of Saints, is the principal town. It takes its name from the sanctity of its inhabitants, who have all the credit of being Marāboots. A story is told of its having 366 castles, which were built by the first Mohammedan conquerors of the country; they are said to be of a great height and in fine preservation. I suspect, however, they are pretty nearly of the same description as those of Fezzan, of which we heard so many wonderful accounts, and which proved to be only mud tombs, or remains of old houses. From Morzouk to this place is about forty days’ journey.

West.
In Fezzan {Morzouk to Tessowa 1 day. Town and old castle.
{Tessowa to Oubāri 2 Town.
Oubāri to Haghki 2 Resting place.
Haghki to Kaïbo 4 do.
Kaïbo to Bengheh 6 do.
Bengheh to Doukaraat 2 do.
Doukaraat to Tadera 5 do.
Tadera to Amaghi 7 do.
Amaghi to Temadraati 3 do.
Temadraati to Houhaned 1½ do.
Houhaned to Oonabraghri 4 do.
Oonabraghri to Ain el Sala 2 Town in Tuat.

Between Tadera and Amaghi is a desert, which is travelled eight days without water. All the road is sand without any other vegetation than a few occasional shrubs, from Morzouk to Ain el Sala, which is the northern town in Tuat, and the first reached by all the Kafflés from the coast of Morocco. Tafilet is ten days north-west of it. Tombuctoo, or Tembuctoo, is fifty days from Ain el Sala, and the road is entirely over a desert. The first place from Ain el Sala is Akably, a very large town, which is two days. From thence to Mabrook is thirty-five days: this place is so called from its being the custom for those who have passed the Desert to rest and refresh there, each congratulating the other on having safely arrived over their perilous road, by the usual salutation of “Mabrook,” which signifies joy or happiness. Hence to Tembuctoo is fifteen days. Ghadams, belonging to the Bashaw of Tripoli, is twenty days north-north-west of Ain el Sala.

Tembuctoo is about 90 days’ journey from Morzouk, and the road thence is through Tuat. From the account given by merchants, it appears that it is not so large a town as has been imagined; and indeed some agree in saying, that it is not more extensive than Morzouk. It is walled; the houses are very low, and with the exception of one or two small streets, are built irregularly. Huts of mats seem to be in greater numbers than the houses.