Chapter I (9)

All at once the order came—we break up to-morrow! So near no one had believed the march to be. All things were in disorder; the whole night all was bustle and confusion in the camp. More than likely the Pascha had purposely said nothing of this beforehand, so that the Arabs might make no preparations for an attack, to set at liberty their Sheiks who go with us in chains. We had, during the night, to hurriedly buy a dromedary from Mohammed Defalla, after having at a high price, only the day before, purchased the others we needed; then we had to set about packing up the numerous articles we had unpacked during our month’s halt; the three new servants we had got knew too little about our baggage to be themselves ready in time with it. Punctually, two hours before sunrise, the well-known cannon shot aroused all for the march. When half an hour from the camp, the Pascha halted a long while to await the baggage camels.

Our way led through high durra fields, impenetrable to sight; in a south-east direction the whole country seemed flat, with well cultivated and fruitful soil, and before us, like a great blue cloud, rose the hill of Kassela, under which was to be our abode for a considerable time. In brighter blue, as the sun rose higher, was displayed its beautiful head, which towered in splendour over the rest of the hill’s chain extending to the eastward. A most refreshing sight in this monotonous country! We fancied we saw in these magnificent hills a second Switzerland; and kept our longing eyes constantly fixed on their groups. It seemed to us as if we were now arriving at some wished for and promised land, and about to receive the reward for our long wanderings and sufferings in the deserts, for all our exertions and deprivations. Mountains have, on every man, a solemn effect, arouse curious longings and indescribable desires, call up an insensible brightening of mind, and an increase both of mental and physical powers. After long marches in barren countries, when the blue hills rise in the distance, the eye becomes as if chained on them, and man dreams that behind them lies the strange, new, and unseen, and that he will there behold and tread an unknown world.

After some hours we found ourselves at last quit of the monstrous durra fields, and a great plain with scanty herbage received the army, which, expecting an attack from the infuriated Arabs, drew up in some order on it. The infantry marching in sections, in three divisions, formed the centre, the Turkish cavalry formed the right, the Mograbin horsemen and Schaigies the left wing; in the advance, and forming the advance guard, were the Arab Sheiks Mohammed Defalla, Achmet Abu Sinn, Edris Woodagib, &c. The plain was only here and there broken by ill-grown, distorted trees, the soil good and fertile, but bearing nothing, as the rain had not yet given the scorched ground the power of bringing forth. Many long, irregular, two feet high walls or mounds, with small ditches, intersected the ground, and showed that the Arabs irrigated the land, and used it for the growth of grain. Seemingly they change their cultivated fields every three or four years, and in this way have a certain rotation of crops. Many hares were started and galloped down by the horsemen, or slain by sticks. Those of these lands are smaller than ours, but have enormous lop ears; the skin, like the flesh, is lighter in colour, nor has the latter the pleasant game flavour of ours; the same may be said of all their wild animals, nor has their flesh that aroma which prevails in the game animals of northern lands. Various schakals (jackals, badschumm) were also disturbed out of their slumbers, and even they were galloped down and slain by the Turkish horsemen. They are only eaten by the Arabs and Dongolese. Large and small gazelles we saw vanishing in the distance on all sides; their speed is wonderfully great; yet we have seen them overtaken by the Turkish horses.

Soon the plain began to slope very gradually downwards. Trees, among them the atla, atle, or atal (here darfa), the tundo, and a tree similar to a wild pear-tree, grow in numbers on the plain; the two latter, more like shrubs or bushes, and the former of ill growth, and rising into trees giving little or no shade. The tundo we had already seen in the great desert; it has no leaves, but thick green thorny branches, similar to those of a rose stem; it also bears sour, round berries, which contain many seeds, and have a decayed sweet taste. They are greedily eaten by the Arabs. The shrub itself is, from its bitterness, a special favourite with the camels. Useful woods, such as would from size do for house or ship building, we have not as yet seen. Birds, save vultures, hawks, and crows, we have seen or heard hardly any, as is ever the case in the little animated and devoid of water scenes of Africa. Only in the neighbourhood of rivers, lakes, or springs, are to be found rich plumaged birds. The vultures with ruffled feathers, bald heads and necks, generally grey, or grey-black; yellowish or light grey bodies, follow, in monstrous flocks, our march, and rush in hundreds on each falling beast. They are a real blessing to these countries, in which men let animals lie where they have fallen, even in the streets of the capital, Chartum. They are quite tame, and will let one go up to them without rising; and when they do rise, they only fly off a little way, and then lounge about as usual.

On our progress the bush grows ever thicker; nebbeck, acacias, and other mimosas, start up among the former trees, and the grass grows very high, so that it overtops the smaller asses. Foot-tracks of many wild beasts cross in all directions; those of the elephant are of enormous size and sunk into the ground, somewhat moistened by the rain, more than a foot, and are from one and a half to two feet in length and breadth. One can plainly enough distinguish where these gentry have halted any time, for all bushes and shrubs are destroyed or trodden into the ground. At some such places we saw perfectly fresh marks of them; and much did these excite us, as it was evident they had only on the army’s advance retired somewhat further into the thickets. We much lamented we fell in with none of these giants of the forest; for to see them moving about in their homes would doubtless afford a different sight from the tame specimens in Europe. Numbers also of the two-horned rhinoceros (the lower horn is the larger) are here to be met with. It is said to be of savage fierceness, to attack men and beasts as it meets them, nay even to engage in violent battle with the elephant, and often to vanquish it in spite of its greater agility.

But to make up for our disappointment, another not less interesting scene was afforded us. Among the little Schaigie cavalry all of a sudden arose a loud shouting, all seized their arms, expecting an immediate attack of the Arabs. But soon we distinguished the cries of “Asset! asset!” (lion), and quickly we glanced round on all sides, anxiously expecting to see him burst forth. In the mean time the Pascha had issued orders to his chase-loving cavalry, not to leave their places on the appearance of the beast, under penalty of a punishment of 1000 blows; as he, in this intricate ground, was much alarmed for any disorder among his ranks, and expected every moment an attack from the Arabs. We were at the time at the extreme head of the left wing, near Melek Mahmud, when all at once came out of the bushes on our side, not one hundred paces from us, a pretty large lioness, moving at a sharp trot: she seemed totally without fear, for at the sight of the whole army she did not quicken her pace. A minute later at the same spot appeared, roaring fearfully, a mighty lion, in great fury as it seemed; he moved off yet slower than his mate, at times halting in his course, gazing at us, and when he had approached within sixty or seventy paces of us, he again gazed with furious eye at all, and then, with great bounds, was lost to our view. How much we were astounded, but at the same time delighted, at this scene, all may easily imagine: I for my own part openly confess, that the appearance of this savage beast, whose strength and courage have become a proverb, made a most peculiar impression on me; had I been alone, and not in such a large and armed crowd, I would have assigned it to fear or alarm, but it would, more than likely, be felt by any one, who instead of now reading this in his snug room, and probably laughing at it, was at once brought into these countries, and thus introduced to the sight of such an animal in its full liberty. In short, the sight of this proud, royal pair, had awakened and excited all our spirits and life, after they had been sunk from a seven hours’ ride, the regular movement of the camels, and more than all by the hot scorching midday’s sun, and most horrible thirst.

On this occasion, as before, we observed that the Arab Sheiks seem to place far more confidence in their old straight cross-handled blades, than in the light, crooked Turkish sabre. In purchasing these swords the Arabs use every precaution; they have their own marks or ideas on this point, and should a sword be wanting in one of them, though in every other respect good, it is looked on by them as valueless. First of all, it must not be new, or at least not have any appearance of being so; a certain part of the double edges must show itself ground out, so that the lines may run in the form of a bow, and on one of its sides must a lion be engraved, and on the other a figure the meaning of which I have not been able to find out. The blade is hollow (_i.e._ a shallow groove must run along both edges of the flat, but never get completely into the centre), pointed and double edged the whole way down. These are the principal necessary points. Many of these swords are very old, and this can be clearly proved, as the present possessors are well aware of their history, and proud of it; the swords are handed down from father to son, and one never hears of new blades being carried into the country. Whence these swords come, no one knows, and they never have either the maker’s name or residence on them, as far as we could discover. Ask any one whence they come, and he answers, “Min, beid, beid!” (From far, from far!) either from the north (Riff) or from far beyond the Bach’r male (Red, literally, salt sea), and were made by heathens (Kaff’rn). In Cairo we saw, at the merchant’s Biagini, of Genoa, many swords from the manufactory of Küll of Solingen; but still they were all in some way different from those generally in use here, and principally in being ground off round at the point. But I afterwards bought, on my journey to Mandera, two swords, of which one, a new blade from Solingen, had the usual sharp point, the other was an old Spanish blade of the fourteenth century. Oh, that such a knightly relic of the crusades could speak! Most of these blades have been introduced by or procured from the slave- dealers, and probably brought from the south-west countries, Darfur, &c., as in the south and south-east, such blades are not to be seen. The chain armour, with which man and horse is covered in battle, comes from India, as all say; in time of peace, the horses of the Arab chiefs only carry head and eye covering.

The land still continued sloping downwards, the vegetation became extremely luxuriant, and it was evident that water lay longer here than in other places; so that during and after the rainy season, this neighbourhood must be a lake or swamp. Ere long we found ourselves in the great Gohr (the bed of a river only full in the rainy season), named el Gasch, which seems to have its main sources in the rain from the mountains of Makada (Habesch), and extends in a direction from south- east to north-west. This it is that principally furnishes the watering of the land of Taka, and causes the fruitfulness of its fields, as well as the growth of the trees of the Chaaba. We beheld a considerable arm of this Gohr in el Sofra, the village of Mohammed Din; and it also furnishes waters to the wells and springs of those lands, and by its sinking into the earth forms the subterranean rivulets, which principally maintain the high fruitfulness of the lands of the Haddenda. It is commonly said that it afterwards divides into many branches, and loses itself at last in standing pools in the Chaaba, that during the dry season evaporate under the sunbeams. But as, during the rainy season, the torrents of waters conveyed to it from the higher mountains are very considerable, and as, at the same period, very many other rain brooks pour their waters into it, it does not seem very probable that these grounds, so completely soaked themselves by the Chariff, can drink in this immense quantity of water also. In Berber we heard that a considerable rain torrent poured itself into the Nile, either a little above or below that place, perchance that is the el Gasch; it may, however, pour itself into the Mogren, a large river in the rainy season, which rushes into the Atbara, a day’s journey higher up than its junction with the Nile. That it does not run into the Atbara under the name of the el Gasch, is well known.

On the high bank of the Gohr el Gasch, on our side, stood many pretty large trees, atles and mimosas; but in spite of the height of the bank, one saw plainly by marks on the trees how high the water rose on them, and that it extended far over its banks, and poured itself into the plain, turning it into a swamp, and, afterwards, giving life to a luxuriance of vegetation unknown to us, and furnishing a shelter and abode to all kinds of animals, and among them many venomous reptiles. The breadth of the Gohr was over fifty paces. Its fall, at least where we saw it, does not seem great; its bed was deep, and smoothly covered with sand; no stones were in either its bed or banks. Its windings are many and varied, and everywhere were to be seen, lying about, larger or smaller trees and bushes, washed loose in the season of its floods. Its direction here was in general south-east to north-west. We rode almost for an hour up its dried bed, and had to guide our dromedaries most carefully, that they might not step into the deep foot-holes of the elephants, which were all over the river bed, and often of such a size and depth, that the camels fell into them, some breaking their legs. To fall with or from a dromedary is most dangerous; for first the height is something, and then the chances are that the unwieldy and unaided beast falls, with its large, heavy body, on the rider, or sets a foot on him. To jump off it, is, from the form of the saddle and the position of the rider, who sits as if on a stool, next to impossible. The saddle, a skeleton of wood with high cantle behind, and great hook of a pummel, is exceedingly well adapted, either to catch the dress of the rider should he attempt to leap off, or to smash his bones when he comes with his beast to the ground. If the camel falls violently, then from the force of the fall, and the height, the rider is at best pitched over its ears, and runs a good chance of breaking neck or limbs.

To preserve some order in his army in so dangerous a spot, the Pascha caused it to pass this Gohr by divisions; but still each rode and went as he pleased. In the centre of the infantry was Mohammed Din, loaded with heavy chains, though on account of his age an ass had been furnished him; but the three other prisoners, in spite of the chains on their neck and ankles, were obliged, under the horrible heat, to perform the long march on foot, and certainly received no consolation or comfort from the conversation of the soldiery, which was neither edifying nor friendly. As we were thus in the Gohr, passing through, each as he chose, without order, crowded together and moving ever on, it seemed to us most wonderful that the Haddenda, a tribe that numbers over 80,000 fighting men, did not set on us, and give us a lesson such as Churschid Pascha had received from them. The army in long column pressed on, in crowded masses, through the Gohr, the banks of which were high, and thickly overgrown with trees and bushes, so all the foe had to do was to post themselves on each side in the thickets, and not one lance would have failed to transfix its man; cavalry could do nothing here, and the infantry, from its disorder, would have been unable to deploy or get into any position of defence, as the ground would not have allowed of it. The tribe must either have been afraid of the Turks and their fire- arms, or alarmed that their great Sheik would have been instantly murdered. For some 100 paces on the other side of the Gohr, the path lay through trees and low bushes; then we again arrived at a country where a thousand determined Arabs, with lance and shield, might certainly have destroyed great part of the army. It was now a dried morass, some half mile in breadth, but of unknown length. Path there seemed none; for all was so perfectly overgrown with luxuriant uschar (_Asclepias procera, L._) young atles, and high reedy grasses, that it was impossible for a foot passenger to make his way through it; and we, on horses and dromedaries, only got forward with much difficulty, having to tread down the lower bushes, and work our way through, with all kinds of turnings and windings.

The Pascha, with some horsemen, had ridden on to form a path, but found himself often obliged to turn back and seek out an easier and more practicable way. Every one saw the dangers of such a place, but no one thought of holding their arms ready, when both hand and foot were needed to pull asunder, and make way through the interwoven boughs and branches on every side. The two guns were to be dragged through; this was only effected, with the greatest difficulty, by a double yoke of mules, and even then the poor animals had almost to lower their bellies to the earth, to get the guns a few feet on. Where the guns went was told by the crashing of breaking bushes, especially by the crushing of the fruit of the uschar, here of great size, and full of wind; the noise they made in bursting much resembling that of a bladder. We almost fancied we heard some platoon firing, and laughed heartily at these blank shots, in spite of the trouble and danger of our way. On our road, as well as at the Gohr, many of our old soldiers were reminded of the fatal defeat of Churschid Pascha, in which he also lost two guns, to recover which a whole battalion, save one or two men, were sacrificed. But again they trusted in the Pascha, and the Arab-Turkish “Allah Kerim!” Surely there was nothing easier than to have had these dangerous spots reconnoitred beforehand, and some 1000 men sent on with axes to clear a way.

Now at last were we in the land of the Hallenga, to whom Taka belongs. It was indeed a laughable sight to watch the army, as, in the most inconceivable disorder, it made its way out of the morass. Horse, foot, baggage camels, asses, from all sides and corners, pushed their way so slowly out, that the Pascha, on reaching the opener ground, saw himself forced to halt at least two hours, to let men and cattle once again assemble, and get into some sort of order.

Here, again, all was plain; the durra fields extended far and wide, though not in the luxuriant vegetation of the land of the Haddenda. On the open plain were visible small water-courses and much grass, but bushes and trees only in twos or threes, and right and left in the distance, from a half to one hour’s journey off, was to be seen the Chaaba. We passed the ruins of a village, which, as we were told, had been burnt and plundered by the Schaigie Melek Kamball, brother to Wood Mahmud, when he some two years before of his own accord, undertook with only 300 of his men an incursion into these lands, and murdered and plundered all he fell in with. That such an enterprise could be successfully carried out, can only be ascribed to surprise, and the rapid movements of the Schaigies, who never seem to halt, know the country well, and have a great advantage in their fire-arms. Even now, though dead, Kamball still lives in the people’s mouths; they have a great number of songs about him, in which he is described, on account of his cruelty and savage deeds, constantly wandering round, without grave, rest, or peace, as the punishment of his crimes. He was shot in the back, most likely by the soldiers of Achmed Pascha, in a fight between them and the Schaigies of Melek Hammet. The latter is well known by all as an exceedingly brave and daring man, and is much beloved by the Schaigies; he is of an old ruler’s family, from Old-Dongola, where his father was murdered by the Mamelukes he had hospitably received. Hammet had, during our residence in Chartum, fled from thence with 400 of his most trusty men, discontented and enraged, like most of the Schaigies, at the present government, who held these freebooters too much in check. Had he succeeded in reaching the Makada frontier, he would have been safe, for he would have been received with open arms by that people, and especially would old Melek Nimr have welcomed such a fugitive. Ere long assuredly most of the Schaigies would have drawn round such a chief, and also from Dongola a great number of people would have followed him; these numbers possessing fire-arms, knowing so well how to use them and carry on war, added to Melek Nimr’s own tribe of the Djalin, and also the probable junction with them of all the races of the southern part of the island, particularly that of the far extended race of Hammesh, and finally that of the tribes dwelling to the east of the Nile in Kataref, Kalabatt, Atisch, &c., would have formed an hostile force the Turks never could have overcome. The trade with Habesch would then have been completely lost to Bellad-Sudan (an inestimable loss), constant plundering expeditions into the lands ruled by the Pascha were to be looked for, and had he marched against the enemy, they would have had a secure retreat in the high mountains of Makada, where they would have found water and food in abundance.

The Pascha well aware of all this, and fearing a revolt of all the tribes of Bellad-Sudan as the consequence of Hammet’s flight (in which Hammet was likely to pass by Halfaia, between Bach’r asrek and the Atbara), had, the moment he got news of it in Berber, assembled the most trusty of the leaders of the Schaigies, and ordered them to pursue Hammet. These, perhaps envious of the latter’s future power, perhaps fearing that their own followers would soon fly also, or perhaps from anxiety to gain the great reward they expected, and which had been promised them, did all in their power to overtake the fugitive. The Pascha himself rode in four days from Berber to Abu Harrass, a distance that generally takes a courier six or seven days; put 500 soldiers on dromedaries; and having overtaken Hammet, who was employed feasting and drinking merissa with his followers, overpowered him and his small force. On this a relation of Hammet broke through the infantry, and rushed, with cocked pistol, on the Pascha, who only saved himself by the speed of his horse; and it is said, that Kamball, who had all along held faithfully to the Pascha, was then shot by the infantry, who were enraged at and jealous of the Schaigies. His death was generally lamented, as he was a distinguished soldier, an honest man, and general favourite, and from his generosity to the poor, ever in debt. The Pascha himself set high value on him, most likely from finding in him a particularly useful subject, who, with the smallest force, would calmly go to face each and any danger, however great. He had, like another Theseus, undertaken and succeeded in the boldest enterprises; if not in the camp, men knew some desperate expedition was out, and often he was not seen again for eight or ten days, and ever and again it was reported he was dead; but he ere long re-appeared, his task, as usual, having been well and perfectly performed; and it is much to be questioned if he was not at last slain out of private hate and envy of his great fame. After his death, the Pascha himself took charge of his infant son, had him educated, and allows him 500 piastres a month. He daily visits his benefactor, who is most friendly and amiable to him, as to all children. The Pascha granted a pardon to Melek Hammet and his followers, but still it is generally believed, that in spite of this, the former will, on the first favourable opportunity, in some way or other lose his life, as the Turk never forgets to avenge an injury. He has been ever since treated by the Pascha with reserve and slight; is, indeed, now with the army, but ever in the camp, as if he were under surveillance, and never has any expedition been confided to him, either to collect tribute from the neighbouring country, or make small plundering excursions, in which one- half of the booty goes to the spoilers. The gloomy, savage countenance of Hammet, shows that he feels all this, and meditates vengeance.

At last, about mid-day, we again struck the great Gohr in the middle of durra-fields. A halt was made, and the Pascha rode about for an hour in all directions, till he at last hit on the worst possible spot for his camp, and one distant from all water. While this fool’s excursion was going on, we and our beasts were exposed to the most fearful heat, but when his Excellency at last pitched on his camping-place, near the village of Dabaab, and we were done to a turn, we had the good luck to get possession of one side of a great tree, where our tent was shaded from the burning sun, and we could cool down a little. Though tired and exhausted, almost to falling, the great heat prevented our either sleeping or eating; our only comforter and consoler was the water-cup. As we looked forward to being again attacked by fever, it was good news to us that the Pascha intended remaining some days here; and the seriba, which can be put up in some two hours, was formed round the camp. The Gohr, here pretty broad, had plenty of water in some parts of it, in pits some five or six feet deep: but, unfortunately, this was very bad and stinking, and, after standing a day in the water-skin, unfit to drink. The open plains all round were durra-fields, but the Chaaba was not far off. In the evenings there was constant lightning without thunder, but no rain at night.

Letters appearing (concerning his return journey) from Duke Paul William of Wurtemberg, and being written in German, we had to act as interpreters. He mentioned, with many thanks, the reception the Pascha gave him in Bellad-Sudan, the attentions that had been shown to him everywhere, and the care taken to provide him with food. In short, all was compliments, and the Pascha was much delighted at hearing these translated to him. The earlier intentions of the Prince had been to advance, by Faszogl, farther into the country than ever European had done, but he had only proceeded some days’ journey into the parts beyond that place. Jacob Effendi, whom the Pascha had given him as an escort, and who had gone with him from Abu Hammet up and back, now came to the camp in high hopes, as he had received from the Prince a special recommendatory letter to the Pascha, instead of the usual rewards given here, and expected confidently, what the giver had promised him, either promotion, or at least a good sum of money. But neither followed, and Jacob ran all day, in the glowing sun’s heat, through the camp, with the German letter of recommendation in his pocket, as, after I had translated it to the Pascha, he coolly gave it back to the bearer. We received from the Pascha the office of thanking the Prince for his attention, and wishing him all possible happiness.

The expected fever from the dreadful heat and bad water has arrived, and the glowing noon-day’s sun seems, even through the tent, to be bent on converting our skulls to ashes. Not until ten o’clock at night did perspiration appear, and at the same time there burst out a fearful storm of rain, and tent, bed-covering, cloak, were all wet through, making us fear the worst consequences. But, thank God! we slept soundly in spite of rain, thunder, and lightning, and in the morning felt pretty well, so much so, that we were able to make a short hunting excursion. The soaked ground was certainly no pleasant promenade; we were ever slipping, and our light Turkish shoes sticking in the mud, so that our white stockings, ere long, were the colour of the natives’ legs. When we got a short distance from the durra-fields, we were both astonished and surprised to find ourselves in a country exactly similar to the Westphalian Embscher Bruch, and long did we brothers gaze on it, calling up past days in our fatherland; the country, too, was enlivened by singing-birds, particularly the black-heads, with their full, melodious voices—sounds of pleasure one seldom hears in Africa, where never is there such music of the woods as with us. We pushed on into the bush, which grew thicker, and where the grass rose high as our heads, hiding the deep rain-courses. On all sides crawled venomous reptiles; already had we seen two pretty large snakes and many smaller sunning themselves on dry spots under the bushes, and therefore it was only with great caution, and well examining where we placed our feet, that we moved on. Besides, we were alone, and had still fresh in our memories the sight of the two lions of the day before yesterday. In such high grass, lions or tigers could easily lie hid, or fierce cats might crouch among the branches, and every rustling seemed to us to announce the outburst of some such beast of prey; then, ere long we came on a yet fresh, half- devoured gazelle, from its feast on which some wild beast had been disturbed. Footsteps of elephants, quite recent, we saw in great numbers; seemingly they had visited the durra-field at night. Among the various birds, we particularly remarked many small pigeons, about as large as a stare, with tails three-quarters of a foot long, of a brown- red colour, as was also the plumage under their wings. At last we came on a large gazelle, and having luckily shot him, made our way back, and ere long were feasting on a piece of him, which tasted to us excellent, and not unlike our roe venison; much we lamented no juice of the grape was to be had, to rejoice our longing and languishing palates. Jackals and hyenas are here in plenty; the young of both were brought us, but we had no wish to be now troubled with them. Chameleons, too, were to be found hanging and basking in large numbers on the trees round.

On taking a ride, at mid-day, to the village of Dabàab, some half-hour’s journey off, to visit the sick Kadi Ali, we found everywhere about hollows, or sunken places, which formed large marshes, and explained why, during and after the rainy season, the country round about is so unhealthy; for the vegetable and animal matter, when decaying, and the accompanying exhalations, must produce an atmosphere remarkably well adapted to bring on fever. In Dabàab we were closely inspected and examined by all, as, seemingly, before us no white-skin had ever been seen in the village. This is of great extent, and seems to have many inhabitants; we also saw many cattle, and a certain prosperity and wealth seemed to peep out from all about us. But they possess, as we afterwards learned, only very few camels, and their horses, bought in Abyssinia for ten to fifteen top[29], are small and not enduring. Asses, cattle, sheep, and goats they have in abundance. Besides the one great thorn enclosure, there were some smaller ones round the dwellings of the different families. The houses, or tokuls, were of tolerable size, and almost on every one had storks built their nests; here this bird is sacred, and it would be one of the greatest crimes an Arab could commit, were he to hunt away or injure these birds. The wealthier adorn the tops of their tokuls with ostrich-feathers and eggs, or some such ornament, and to each is attached another square hut (recuba) of straw or dried wood, serving as kitchen, abode, and sleeping-place for family and servants. The master of the house, and his wife, however, have their sleeping-place in the tokul, where also is kept everything that might perchance be ruined by rain; this sleeping place is some three feet high, and of a length and breadth that six men might find room in it; it is also surrounded by pales, on which are gratings woven of thin wood, and on these are fastened straw mats; the whole structure, like those we saw at el Soffre, is hung round with thick woollen cloths. A little light gets in through the very small door of the hut, and were it not for this, all would be darkness inside. Nothing more than the usual household utensils, a few angarebs and mats, did we see; the utensils consisted of a murhaka (mill), a burma (earthen pot), a gadda (wooden dish), and some water-skins.

The Kadi, a man of at least eighty years old, and now ill with fever, sought by every means to impress on us his high dignity and great knowledge. He said of himself that he was most learned (ahlem), did and ought to know every thing, as he had been eight years in Mecca and two in Medina; he also was proud of his knowledge that we Franks wrote from the left to right. He represented himself to my brother as a physician, who knew how to cure all diseases, but unfortunately had no medicines by him. All Kadis are penmen (faki, plur. fokra), and at once civil and religious judges: but, unluckily, it is the usual plan with them to decide the same point of law, one day one way, the next another; in fact as it suits themselves, or as higher officials order them. We were entertained with honey-water, and many sweeter words, as to our country, our customs, and fine things, the latter of which they understand, even here, to ask for with the greatest greediness and importunity. Ere long the small hut we were in was crammed with more than thirty men, the exhalations and heat of whose bodies caused such a stench and suffocating feeling, that remaining in it became most disagreeable. All who entered kissed most respectfully the Kadi’s hand, and then came up to us and held out their hand with the greeting “Mirhaba!” All had some complaint, and believed, that through the old Kadi’s influence they must obtain medicine. Among these followers the old man had six sons, many grandsons, and almost all the rest were brothers, nephews, or relatives. To escape from the importunities of this large family, we had nothing else for it than to return to camp. After some days, the Kadi’s son came to us, and Joseph, out of pity, gave him medicine, but made him aware that hereafter he would give him nothing gratis; no other means exist of holding one’s own with these greedy Arabs. After some days he repeated his visit, and requested more medicine, proudly offering in exchange a hen which at most was worth a piastre.

The tribe of the Hallenga are in general a fine race; they have open countenances, in which is not visible that savageness and falseness so marked in those of the Haddenda, although, in truth, there is little to choose between them. Their hair they wear like the other Arabs. The women, compared with the men, are much whiter, very well grown, and with good features while yet young; but with them, as the other Arab tribes, the ugliness of old age shows itself only too soon.

We did not see their chief Sheik, Auet, he having, on the approach of the Turks, fled to Makada, and in so doing has certainly acted more wisely than Mohammed Din, else he too might have had to stroll to Chartum as an hostage. As descendant of the most ancient family of Sheiks of the Hallenga, this Auet is held in high respect by his people, and praised by all as brave and generous. At his flight he had said, “I have ever been free, and will never be a servant of the Turks, for I am of higher race than they.” Much stress is here set on such a descent, and for this reason our Mohammed Ehle, formerly a Faki, and first made Sheik by Churschid Pascha, in spite of his being a good and brave man, is held in small esteem by these people, who look with contempt on a Sheik who had been appointed by their oppressors, and as such he is called Sheik betal Diwan; to this is added that he is poor in cattle or other property, and he could hardly have, in their eyes, a greater fault than this.

It seems that, being now in the land of the Hallenga, we are considered in a more friendly country; for the guards round the camp are much weaker than in Arronga, and are only posted of an evening, and then round the large fires constantly kept up to scare away the wild beasts. In other ways we are not particularly well off. Saving hares and gazelles, the first costing one, and the second, if any size, three or four piastres, there is no good food to be got. A most fearful evil is the bad, stinking water, and worse than all the rest, the dreadful heat. Our tent is of thick, double canvas, and yet the sunbeams pierce so glowingly through it, that we are forced to lay coverlets and such like things over the side the sun strikes on, to try and thus get some relief. Tents that have been painted over with some colouring are much cooler, from having their pores thus filled, than those of white linen or canvas. We have been more than once favoured, during the night, by storms, with heavy rain, which soaked us well; nor were we altogether free from alarm at the constant lightning and thunder, as our tent was pitched under the highest tree hereabout, and at a distance from the others.

The severest storm we experienced in Africa was in Chartum, on the 31st August, 1839, during which many houses were destroyed by the wind and rain, and eleven vessels foundered in the White Nile. The masses of water poured down from heaven were such, that for more than a week afterwards the sun had not dried up the puddles in the narrow streets. We were at the time on our return from the bath we had been taking in the Nile, and counted flashes of lightning in eleven different points of the horizon round us; there was, too, such a brilliant clearness spread about on all sides, that, although it was otherwise very dark, one could see to read quite plainly. In four points the lightning was so violent, that it no longer seemed zigzag flashes, but like streaked columns of fire, ascending from earth to sky,—a splendidly beautiful sight! In our house every room was full of water; in the court we had to wade through streams up to our knees, in passing through it to examine our store- house; and this set in order, we had nothing for it, to keep off the ill effects, but to sit on our table and drink hot punch. The next house to us was a powder magazine, and we still look on it as good fortune we were not blown into the air by the explosion of the powder stored there. The next day we paid a visit to Theodore Kotschy, a collector of objects of natural history from Austrian Silesia, who was encamped in the open land near Omdurman, on the left bank of the Bach’r abiat. His tent, fastened with twenty strong ropes, was totally torn away and blown high into the air, and he and his people seemed yet far from having got over the terrors of a night they described as a most fearful one.

It now turns out most fortunate for us that we have brought with us, on our camels, our light bedsteads or angarebs, else must we have lain on the earth, like the soldiers, who have much want and many sufferings besides to undergo, as money becomes daily scarcer in the camp. All kinds of things are carried round by the criers (dellal) for sale, as cooking utensils, clothing, pipes, &c. We, too, seem likely ere long to have nothing left us; our Hussein the Gaddam taib (or good servant, as he called himself on being hired, but who, in reality, is a cunning discontented stupid fellow), a Djaln, had suddenly deserted us, and in company with our best camel, taken his road to return to his own land. He had arrived at Kassela, but was met by Ibrahim Kaschef of Kataref, who asked him for his papers, and, as he could produce none, was brought back to the camp as a deserter. He had tried to defend himself by a trumped-up story, that he had been sent by us to Beni-Amer, to see why our huntsman Abdallah remained so long there. The Arab servants are in general a real pest to every master, as among many hundreds of them you will not find ten honest or faithful.

Ibrahim Kaschef, a Circassian, foster brother of Soliman Kaschef of Carreri, made his entrance with a great following of soldiers and some considerable Sheiks of Kataref, and fortunately for us, brought with him a large quantity of Abyssinian coffee. Ibrahim is, as most Circassians, a handsome man, but, unfortunately, has had his nose somewhat damaged. He complains much of the unhealthy climate of Kataref, the water, constant fevers there, and that the smallest cut, in spite of the utmost care, soon becomes a great ulcer; and that the ferendit (thread-worm) has twice attacked him, and showed us a very distinct scar it had left. All his Turkish soldiers had suffered from illness. In the neighbourhood of Kataref and Kalabatt are some powerful Arab races, the most important of which in power and greatness, second to neither the Beni-Amer nor Haddenda, is the Kabyle (tribe) Dabaina, under their present Sheik, Issa Wood Said. The Tokruri, in former days so important in Kalabatt, have been much weakened by wars with other Arab tribes, and with Churschid Pascha. The natives of Kalabatt and Kataref seem to be much darker than those of Taka. Their dress is the usual one worn, the well-known Ferda; the hair is frizzed and fastened in knots on the crown, as with the inhabitants of Gesira.

We gained a prize in a civet-cat, called by the Arabs kedis-sabat or sebat, a handsome animal, but unfortunately of an age not likely to admit of its being tamed. It is three feet in length, including its long pretty thick tail; its feet are short, with small claws it never uses; head long, eyes wild, ears small and thin, skin grey, with the most beauteous black spots; tail with black and grey rings alternately. Below the tail are placed, on both sides, the glands that contain the singular musk-smelling substance, and these glands become, when it is excited, of a dark brown colour. The natives here, as elsewhere, value it highly, shut it up in a wicker-basket (kafass), and carefully collect its strong-smelling secretions, which are made use of by the women for powdering the upper parts of their body, their necks &c., and called by them musk. Its chief food is flesh, but it is very fond of milk.

Of reptiles, besides serpents of every size and colour, we found many scorpions, very large and half black. As such in human form may the Faki be viewed, for they act as scourges on the superstitious Mussulmen in all ways. That the Mussulmen look on many matters as aphrodisiacs, such as opium, tea, pigeons, schnaps, punch, &c., is only laughable; but it is vexatious to see how the Faki cheat the sick with their so-called charms and holy relics. The Sheik Effendi, a young mauhn (writer), with the rank of major, was suffering from violent fever, and, like a strict orthodox Turk, had recourse to the Faki for his cure, rather than to our quinine pills. Now, for one of these rascals to perform a cure, is a long ceremony, and consists chiefly of praying without intermission with the most hideous grimaces, and ever and anon spitting in the sick man’s face; a fresh egg is also necessary, but how used, we have not been able to discover. By this praying, spitting, grimacing, and writing of amulets, some of which are hung on the sick man, and some eaten by him, are cured all diseases without distinction. If the sick man is rich, then three black or white kids or lambs are necessary, which, of course, the Faki afterwards retains as his own share; from the poorer classes he requires hens, or a goat, ere he takes his leave. A Turk of the train of Ibrahim Kaschef professed to write charms against the ferendit, and was so convinced of their unfailing virtues, that in the presence of the Pascha, he pledged his head on their efficacy. Whether he was put to the proof we know not, but the common remedy for it is fire or butter; the latter, indeed, is a remedy for all diseases, and not in spoonfuls, but morning and evening a pound or two, and sometimes as much as six pounds are taken (drunk) daily. Many healthy persons in Bellad-Sudan, as well as in Beni Amer, Taka, and elsewhere, drink every morning fasting from three to six pounds of butter, as they fancy that this makes and keeps them strong (schedied), and this belief is general. Most of the rich and respected men are also the fat and stout, and the common saying is, they have no want of butter (dich’n).

But we feel the want of many things, especially of our mid-day’s siesta, for the Pascha generally passes his noon under the large tree, one side of which we occupy (this is by far the finest tree we have seen in Bellad-Sudan, and would afford shelter to at least fifty men), and either has people with him to whom he talks, or is ever clattering with the dice at triktrak (tauola), which game he often plays at for four or five hours together, without heeding aught else. Topschi Baschi, the chief of the artillery, has the honour of playing with him, and he cannot count at any time on an hour’s repose, as it often pleases the Pascha, who sleeps but little, to send for him at night to his tent; and he, wearied or sick as he may be, must, of course, attend. As little, too, is to be envied the lot of the Copt, Mallem Challill, Achmet’s private secretary, who, during the day, is summoned at least twenty times to his master; during the whole time he is in the presence, often three or four hours, he must ever stand, and at night, when his Excellency cannot sleep, and coffee, taken four or five times, does not succeed in soothing him, some thought will come perchance into his head, and the unfortunate secretary is at once sent for to write it down. Often during our journey have we pitied him; for hardly had we, all worn out, dismounted at mid-day, or late in the evening, from our dromedaries or horses, fit for nothing but repose, when the unhappy Mallem was summoned to the Pascha, and often kept up the whole night through, writing and arranging letters and papers. Pity, a Turk knows not. From all this, Challill is silent, melancholy, and drinks, in the evening (his day’s work over), to keep up his strength, six or eight fingan, or small coffee cups, of araki, as this, he fancies, more quickly cheers him than wine. Often have we warned him to mind what he did, and for his health’s sake to take fewer of these destructive drams; but he ever replies, that for his health’s sake he dare not give them up, as he has been used to them from his youth, and were it not for them, he would not feel he was alive; nay, more, that now he had discovered it was impossible for him, once he commenced, to cease drinking as long as there was anything in the bottle. After such potations, Challill becomes somewhat more communicative, and tells us stories in answer to our questions as to the customs of his race, of whom we have heard much from him. He, indeed, often ventures to call the Turks an evil set, but no one will or can get out of him the smallest hint as to the Pascha’s affairs, be the matter ever so trifling, although he possesses his master’s full confidence, and knows every thing. He has now been seven years absent from Cairo, all the time with the Pascha, and his wife and children are still in that city, as the Pascha will not permit her to join him, that his secrets may be better kept.