Chapter I (3)

The main road had been here and there widened by hewing away some of the trees, but it had already been taken by the cavalry and infantry on their asses; so we had to make our way through the thick close bush as well as we could. All was now indescribable confusion, and had the foe set on us here with their javelins, things would certainly have gone ill with us. We came, even in the bush, to some spots cleared by fire, probably for the cultivation of durra. After a good hour, the ground became more favourable, a halt was at last made, and some order restored to us. The soil here seemed excellent, all covered with grasses, and very deep two or three inch wide water runs intersecting it in all directions, plainly showing by these deep and wide excavations, how heavy the rain torrents must be here. The Pascha we found already encamped, in full security and utmost unconcern, while for a long time the forest kept throwing out his soldiery in beautiful disorder. Each took up his position as he pleased,—cavalry and camel-mounted infantry followed the example,—while a much longer tail of the ass-mounted came slowly creeping out of the defile. Our confidence in the Pascha’s generalship had been much shaken, and it now fell off much more at this sample of Turkish indolence, to which it never occurred to take any measures, or make any proper disposition of his forces.

On pursuing our march we came again to forest, but much opener, and we were now free from crowd and confusion; but from this all the more likely to fall a prey to the foe. Soon there stretched out before us a long wide field, full of numerous holes; these seemed, above, one and a half to two feet in diameter; but below, some four or six, with a depth of the same. They were pear-shaped, and said to be used by the natives to store their grain in. A town must once have been here. Before now we had observed such open spaces;—a sign that this fruitful stretch of land, on which we had now some days been marching, was at times inhabited in certain places by some nomade tribes; and we also remarked, especially at Soggilab, ditches and walls, though not of the most artful structure, to retain the rain water and guide it in irrigating the soil. The soil is lighter than that of the Nile, but covered with the same crust of some fine substance most similar to Nile slime, and must from its lightness be looked on as of vegetable origin; the more so as this is only to be found in the neighbourhood of the Atbara, and the deposit left by the rain floods from the mountains can only be looked for in their channels, or where such gather in the low grounds.

After a further march of three good hours we arrived at some wells, which, like those at Soggilab, ran in a line or course from south-east to north-west, and which might lead one to suspect a subterraneous river, or river bed, as here no great fall of the ground is to be seen. Near the wells were flocks of handsome birds, called Honey-birds (Nectarinia lucida); but they were soon frightened away by the numerous noises. Here were, as at Gos-Rajeb, and more so at Soggilab, many cotton fields; the Asclepias, also, again grew in full luxuriance, covered in greatest profusion with their pendant green air-bottles.

Achmet Pascha had galloped on in advance to look about him, and now off went a cannon as a signal for the army to encamp, or, rather, for each to throw himself down where he pleased. But soon, at my persuasion, came contrary orders; viz., to get clear of the bush, and encamp somewhat farther east, in the open ground. Now, again, all fell into somewhat better order. The infantry enclosed the camp towards the eastward woods; the cavalry faced the south; the Schaigies, Schukuries, and Magrabins the wells towards the west and north. Our two field-pieces were before the infantry; the few tents, along with the baggage camels and asses, were in the centre of our rather irregular square.

We brothers were just trying to gain some strength by a midday siesta, when some shots were fired, followed by a loud confused shouting of “_Arab, arab ketir!_” The Pascha at once threw himself on his horse, and, followed by all the mounted, galloped on, while the soldiery in the utmost confusion ran to the quarter where all looked for the “numberless enemy,” who had already three times defeated the Turks, and where about again to, or had risked an attack. We also loaded our rifles, buckled on our swords, and set out on our way, but had not advanced far in the thick underwood, when there advanced from it to meet us the so-called “Old Knight,” the Bischari Sheik Wood Naja, in full suit of armour, but his grey head bare, riding a most splendid black stallion, with tidings that it was only a magazine that had been discovered, where durra and lubia were stored in immense quantities, in the midst of numberless holes dug in the earth, belonging to the Haddenda Arabs, who had fled from hence only the night before, under their great Sheik Mohammed Din, into the Chaaba, making with all possible speed their way out of the Pascha’s reach, whose arrival they had not so soon expected. On the discovery of the corn a fight had arisen between the Turks and the row- loving Schaigies, our friends, the expert goat milkers, but of the enemy not one was to be seen. The Pascha had given orders that every one might help himself at will from the prize; and when we arrived at the spot, we found all in the fullest activity with hands, bayonets, spears, sabres, hooks, axes, sticks, groping in the pits; and as each found anything, in it went to sack, bag, or dress, and on horse, camel, or ass-back away off with it to camp; and left there, the finder was instantly back again to try his luck once more. The army might have been subsisted for over two months on this store of durra, although the Haddenda had before carried off all they could. Besides the grain, the soldiers found beans, wood, mats, supports for mat huts, and many such things. As we returned to camp, all the army were going to or coming from the plunder, and again we were in a critical state; but the Pascha trusted to his lucky star. The Sheiks, put in action by the false alarm, in their full iron panoplies, their swords in hand, and horses covered with ornamental saddlecloths, looked proudly and splendidly out among the thickly dusted and sweat drenched soldiery, laden like mill-asses. We ourselves got back to our huts as if drenched in water, but, in spite of the midday- sun’s heat, we were not there long ere we felt a thrill of frost all over our bodies.

_6th April._—All rejoiced that to-day was a day of rest. We learned we were in the neighbourhood of the now deserted tent-villages or camps of the Arabs of Issi and Teschum. The soldiers could now, by aid of their hand-mills (tachuhn), slowly grind their grain; and the Khaimakan, that they might not altogether want meat, did not fail, in his high humanity, to sell them for 60 paras the heads and entrails of every sheep he killed, probably thinking these were too small matters to make a present of. This generous man was the Circassian Sorop Effendi. But even while eating this meat, the purchaser had to keep an eye on his dearly won prize, as the numerous vultures, hawks, and ravens were daring enough to have carried it off from under his very nose, and these bold birds repeatedly succeeded in snatching the flesh away from its possessor, especially from the small slaves of eight and ten years old, a number of whom were in the camp. How these little beings held out under the great fatigues is to me incomprehensible, nor less did the soldiers’ power of endurance astonish me, as no arrangements or provisions were made for such as fell sick, neither tents for their reception nor attendants provided, and the medicines laid in were not sufficient for an eighth of them. We rejoiced that we had bought at Cairo a small travelling medicine chest; this had already done us good service in Chartum, and we had brought it with us: the Pascha also had a similar one with him for his own use, and lucky it was so, as all the medicines furnished by government were bad, and the quinine, here so necessary, fearfully adulterated. Although a breeze does occasionally blow here, and one may as much as he can shelter himself by branches, mats, cloaks, &c., from the sun’s rays, still the glowing heat will not long delay to make its unhealthy effects fearfully felt. The black soldiers have taken the wiser course, as many have been daily deserting, and the day before yesterday fifteen of them left us.

To-day the Sheik of the Hallenga, Mohammed Eli, has arrived to meet the Pascha. He looks a man of some forty years, is of stately, warrior-like bearing, with a noble expression of countenance; his hair, greyish about the temples, is there cut short, but long at the sides, and behind hangs down at its full length; he had by his side a small Turkish sabre, probably some present of honour, but most wisely had slung on his saddle behind him his more trusty long-sword. But Mohammed Din, the most dreaded of all, alone came not in; indeed, he has had the Pascha informed, that he will give such grain and beasts as are required, but he will not visit him. He had already, as I mentioned, sent his only son as an hostage to meet the Pascha at Soggilab, but the latter, either from generous pride or some other motive, in my own presence again dismissed him. As his not coming to meet the Pascha is not the most peacelike sign, Achmet has repeatedly warned us not to go far from the camp. Doubtless these Arabs, in larger numbers, lie hidden in the impenetrable bush, and that they know right well how to throw their javelins they have more than once shown. In the meantime the all undertaking and the all attacking Schaigies have to-day slain some of them, though in the skirmish many of themselves have been wounded.

On a large scale the Pascha cannot act against these people. Roads and ways there are none; rapidly do they pack up their all on camels, and with their herds, fly into the Chaaba, where to follow them with an army is impossible. Where will the Pascha procure the heavy expenses of his expedition, where will he pass the rainy season? These and others are questions, the answers to which even he himself has not yet arrived at. His plans he holds most secret, often says the contrary to what he intends, either to do, or not to do; but the truth is, he is without any well considered plan, and the doubtful reports of the Sheiks are not sufficient to let him clearly see the outs and ins, the why and wherefore, of his proceedings. That these Sheiks who have now come in so friendlike, or that those who have accompanied him on his march, can at heart wish well to the Turks, is not to be easily credited; they who before were independent, ruled over a free people, could act and do as they willed, are now deprived of all those privileges, treated with contempt by the stupid, proud Turks,—nay, even subjected to the bastinado, loaded with heavy taxes, and hardly enabled, from diminished revenue, to live, while formerly they fed thousands. Mohammed Din sees these lords’ lot, seems determined to preserve his freedom as long, and sell it as dear as he can, should things go ill for him. But if matters come to extremities, to war itself, setting the Pascha aside, where is there an able, even a tolerable leader? Abdin Aga, the commander of the Turkish cavalry, a puffed up Arnaut; Sorop Effendi, stupidity grafted on avarice; Hassan Effendi Bimbaschi, a quiet glutton; Solimon Aga, greedy and without all or any education; Hassan Effendi of Sennaar, a Turk in the true meaning of the word, commands the Infantry; Mohammed Ladjam, a good-humoured but inexperienced youth, leads the Mograbin horsemen: all these leaders are distinguished from one another, only by the one knowing less than his fellow. What can be expected from an army under such commanders, and more, when that army knows no discipline, and where its best and bravest, the Schaigies, do and ever have done how and what they pleased, and might at a critical moment ruin all? Joined with these are the endless mob of useless rabble, idlers, slaves, and strumpets, dangerous allies, a mere burden to any army, and a fearful impediment to its powers of action. But there is comfort in “Allah Cherim!”

_7th April._—To-day we were stationary, so could enjoy a small hunting excursion round the camp, during which we saw many large and small turtle-doves, crowds of guinea-fowl and partridges, and a perfect swarm of finches, but the variety of birds must be far greater in the rainy season. The thick bush is everywhere most green, everywhere bound together by square-limbed, cactus-like parasites and climbing plants, but thornless. From the earth in many places sprout out small grasses, and when it is kept in mind that from the thickness of the bush, the sun cannot exert its full withering powers, the idea of some subterraneous moisture is much strengthened, as the dew is perfectly insignificant. Stones we saw none.

The excursion did my brother no good, as, after his return to camp he felt extremely unwell, out of spirits, complained of insufferable headache, and burning heat. He had hardly lain down, when shouts of “Arab! Arab!” set all again in motion, and made all run to arms. At such a moment my brother would not even seem sick, so we hurried off to the wells, where we met the Pascha already returning with the cavalry. Some thirty thieving Arabs (Garami) had endeavoured to steal the beasts out of the asses’ pen, had thrown some lances over their guards heads, and these, though unharmed, had raised the shouts and tumult. The camp, as we, on going out of it, discovered, had neither pallisade, ditch, nor any defence towards the east. Enriched by this new proof of Turkish tactics, but unfortunately poorer by a handsome hunting-knife, which my brother lost on the way, we returned back to our tent.

_8th April._—During the past night, which we spent without rest, as my brother’s sufferings were much increased by violent vomiting, incessant thirst, fearful burning in the bowels, restless dozing, and delirious raving, there all at once arose a fearful noise and a little firing; in spite of it, I, however, remained in our hut, as my brother could not move, and the infantry did not stir, trusting to their cavalry comrades. Only when I saw the Bimbaschi Hassam Effendi lead his company past our hut, and commence, in his mad zeal, firing away over the powder barrels, as if he intended to use them as a defence against hostile lances, did I rush on him, sword in hand, and threaten him both with the weapon and the Pascha; on which the idiot recovered his senses, praying me not to betray him. The whole proved a false alarm, but the tormented Pascha had again started into activity, as he never made the slightest use of his aid-de-camps, and seemed to hold that his own presence was necessary to inspire his troops with courage. Some foes had, however, been brought down, as many traces of blood ran into the bush, although all the shots during the night had been fired on the happy-go-lucky principle. The tactics of our Napoleon-honouring Pascha went so far as to leave the wells, though some 200 paces from our camp, all night totally unguarded, and these might therefore have been with the greatest ease poisoned or filled up, by an enterprising enemy. A real piece of good luck it was for us that no large stones were to be had near to fill up these wells, as we had neither tools nor any means of removing such.

As a variety, the bands were ordered by the Pascha to perform; but a fearful punishment their music proved to our European ears, and how could it be otherwise, as no two instruments were in tune, nor was there aught to soften the banging of the brass instruments. The Turkish cavalry, as well as the Magrabin, have some few small kettle-drums of four inches in diameter, which are incessantly thumped, while the Schaigies of Melik Mammud had only one great copper drum, on which were struck single blows at long irregular intervals, at the performer’s pleasure.

_9th April._—The Arabs rest not; about midnight some slaves, having occasion to go to the wells, saw a crowd of them approaching, either with intent to fill up those by no means deep springs, which they ought already to have done, and which even now they could yet so easily have done, as, in spite of their high importance to the camp, their distance from it, and my urgent representations, that as usual were vain, these wells had been left all night without a guard,—or to attack the weaker side of the camp, make themselves masters of our supply of powder, or blow it and us into the air. That our whole store of powder was only guarded by a weak picquet of one sergeant and ten men, was doubtless well known to them, as well as the other arrangements of our camp, for they had many spies among the attendants of the Sheiks who accompanied us, and every day many Arabs were admitted to the camp, who brought for sale butter and honey, here very white and excellent. On this night alarm, a part of the infantry, without waiting for orders, had advanced to the wells, but the incompetency of their leaders had here again done wrong, as the Pascha immediately sent them back again. The guard over the powder store had also quitted their post to take part in the dearly loved firing, and what was yet worse, a Bimbaschi had posted himself and party close beside this powder, and set his men firing right over it towards the wells, though on that side it was totally without any protecting covering, even such as a few branches or sods of turf might have given it, and by his doings threatened death and destruction to all. Fortunately, the Pascha soon observed both these stupid tricks, and instantly replaced the guard over the powder, forbidding all firing near it; if he went a little farther, and made a small example of the offenders, we cannot say but it would certainly have been well. I now see every day more clearly, that if I would gain any point with the Pascha, I must not give him direct advice; and that by doing so, I also expose myself to be used as intercessor with him by his officers, when they wish any of their own numerous wants, or those of their men, attended to.

The Arabs had instantly retreated after the first firing, though not without loss, as some dead men were found near and about the wells; so it was boldly asserted, that their loss was not less than the round sum of sixty men, and certainly there were many more bloody traces running into the bush than yesterday. That during the skirmish some of our own men were killed and wounded by their comrades, we cannot state as fact, but it is highly probable it was so, as our people shot in any direction they fancied, and so, during future night attacks, we being more alarmed for our friends’ fire than our foe’s lances, resolved to remain quietly in our tents, and this we did even after my brother was perfectly recovered.

The blacks do not seem at all to admire the business, for with them desertion is the daily order of things, and they are in the right; the soldiers are miserably off for food, they get nothing but belila (durra boiled in water, without aught else), and the water must be allowed to stand and filter for twelve hours ere it can be drunk, so dirty is it. But the most dreadful plague is the intolerable heat, and this is doubly torturing from a hot wind, like a simoon, which suddenly fills the air with a fine sand that produces itching eruptions on the skin.

CHAP. IV.

A Turkish Camp. — Mohammed Din. — Negroes. — Egyptian Apothecaries. — Tribute. — Nile Expedition. — Monsieur Thibaut. — Diseases. — Natives’ Self-Admiration. — An Adventurer. — Madame Vigoureux.

_11th April._—At last we are again in motion, having started at mid-day, a comfortable hour truly for both man and beast; my brother so weak he could hardly sit on his camel. In the bush we again saw the marks of burning, but the effect was here trifling. After half an hour we reached open ground, where the Pascha, as was his custom, lay down under some trees, and concerned himself not as to what might happen to the rest. There he remained upwards of an hour, awaiting the enemy, as it was said, but none appeared, though Mohammed Din had threatened something of the kind, asserting he was resolved to die, as the Pascha would give him no aman (pardon or quarter). At three o’clock the army were allowed to form their camp, while the Pascha rode out right and left reconnoitring, advancing on till he came to an endless durra field, yet green, but no water was hit on. The Schaigies had to accompany him, and, alas! we also, though half dead from the dust and wind.

_12th April._—Yesterday’s ride has told. I have almost all night long had violent fever, with nervous convulsions; my brother escaped no better, and we passed all night in delirious dreaming, unable to aid each other. It was a mad conversation. When I had an easier moment, and somewhat recovered my senses, I heard Joseph talking away in all languages, but not to me; when he had a lucid minute, then his case was mine, mine his. To-day we mutually joked each other, but a sorry jest it was, nor could we hide from each other our mutual fears for each other’s life. Two nights before I had been slightly delirious. What can courage or heart do without health or intellect? In the morning the Pascha sent the cavalry on to some wells that the Schaigies, with keen scent, had smelt out, not far off, behind the durra fields. Ere long, he, leaving camp and baggage without any covering force, set forward himself to have these wells opened, as they had been filled up. Again at mid-day, in the most fearful heat, came the order for the camp to follow him; but no one troubled their heads as to any regular order, or protective measures during its advance. My brother gazed in alarm on me, as, besides other bad symptoms, my tongue had become brown; we wound our long white shawls turbanlike round our heads, and placed our hoods over them, as some protection against the sun’s scorching rays. We rode almost an hour in a track running through immense fields of exceedingly high durra, here and there intersected by rows of trees; the soil all along seemed exceedingly good, and everywhere the Arabs had most neatly led runs for irrigation. On arriving in camp, we found some dozen wells had been cleared out, and for each so cleared, the soldiers won fifty paras; but now all were in full work, forming with trees and thorns an inclosure round the camp. Mohammed Ladjam sent us a curious scorpion,—pity it was so much injured; it was almost two fingers in length, black-brown in colour, tail and feet covered with thorn-like hairs, and nippers as large as those of a small crab. The Pascha stated that he had seen one in Hedschas, though somewhat less, with a double sting.

Axes were issued out to the troops, but such axes!—one finger’s length long, and two broad! It is certainly a most amusing scene to watch a Turkish camp being pitched. All run against and through each other, men, camels, horses, asses, all mixed and mingling, each chooses out the spot that suits him best, there plants himself and beast, without the slightest heed being paid to forming divisions or leaving passages. We threw ourselves down under a green tree near a cotton plantation, while our servants unloaded our camels, pitched our tent, &c., and from under our carpets, over my legs and my brother’s face, out hurried and made off, a snake some six feet long. Astonished we indeed were, but too wearied to move, and remained calmly reposing, though ere long the very same snake, having been killed by the attendants of the Sheik Defalla, was brought back to us. After a time one becomes careless as to scorpions and other such reptiles. The Pascha had also hit on a shady tree, but had not allowed his tent to be set up, which led me to fancy he expected an attack, when his tent would have pointed out his whereabouts to the foe. About evening we struck our own, and for the same wise reasons as had prevented the Pascha’s being erected. But the tent of the Kaimakan Sorop Effendi had to remain up, to pass, in the enemy’s eye, for the Pascha’s, although it was not fifty paces from the tree under which the latter had settled himself.

_13th April._—The country where we now are, is called El Gash, from the Gohr of like name; the nearest village is one named Aronga. All over our camping ground are now built bower-like huts, of branches and fresh green durra straw; these, called Recubas, are far cooler and pleasanter than tents. From the hut of our herculean neighbour, Mohammed Defalla, crept about mid-day, a snake like that of yesterday: it was, too, soon killed, and measured six feet two inches; they called it an assala (Python Sebæ); about the same hour came into camp, with six hundred dromedaries and seventy horses, Abu Sin, the great Sheik of the Schukurie. The Pascha had gone out to meet him, with all the cavalry and regimental bands. Abu Sin is a handsome large man, with noble countenance, and his character is described by all as vigorous, able, and generous.

_14th April._—It is certainly, as usual, excessively warm, but the air here seems better and purer than at any of our former camping places; the same may also be said of the water, which, though drank in large quantities, has no ill effect. Serpents are brought us daily, but generally so much injured as not to be fit for stuffing. After much negotiation, there arrived to-day the much talked of and feared great Sheik, Mohammed Din, with a pretty numerous train, and dismounted at the hut of our neighbour, Sheik Defalla, who had ridden out to meet him on his great war horse. Greatly was our curiosity aroused to behold this so famed man, the defeater of the Turks under Churschid Pascha; but far greater was that of the soldiery, who, with unblushing boldness, pressed into the tents, although most assuredly, ere now, many of them had trembled before him. All were satisfied, and went away from gazing at him gladdened and rejoicing. Mohammed Din is of middle size, black-brown like all his race; at first sight his face says little, but more closely examined, one sees in it much cunning; his head, bald on the crown, is uncovered, his dress Arab, but his trowsers of fine red cloth. The Pascha well sees the importance of the moment, and excuses himself from receiving him under plea of illness, but appoints this morning for an audience. The train of Mohammed Din most truly consists of a parcel of most unmitigated looking rascals, and it really does seem as if nature had stamped on the faces of these Haddenda the faithless character ascribed by all to the race. All are above the middle size, and armed with shields and lance or sword.

_15th April._—This morning we beheld the Effendina sitting on the throne of his angareb, while on both sides of it stood on the ground, in solemn silence, many Sheiks, and among them the great Mohammed Din, who seemed in deep thought, and gazed as if much humbled on the earth before him. Much cause he has indeed to muse, to reflect on his venturous step, for he has walked into the net, a lion in the toils, and our friend the Pascha seemed resolved to let him feel it was so; only after a time did he present him with the dress of honour, a red shawl and tarboosch as turban, an under dress, and purple mantle with gold buttons and tassels, but the sabre that generally accompanies the dress was not given, and this is held as a bad sign. Mohammed Din promised to send presents of cows and sheep to the camp, and next day rode away with his followers. A number of snakes were this day slain, many soldiers having been bitten by such reptiles. In spite of the friendship entered into with Mohammed Din, the Haddenda still hover round the camp stealing the camels.

_17th April._—Mohammed Din has arrived with a present of two hundred cattle and two hundred sheep. All pots and pans are sought out with smiling faces, although the great men have appropriated the lion’s share of the prey to themselves. Mussa, the twelve year old son of Mohammed Din, paid us a visit in our recuba; he has a negro cast of features, wore heavy gold rings in his ears, and coloured silk trowsers. He showed no curiosity, nor did his mental faculties seem to have been cultivated; he could not talk Arabic, only his own Aggem. A great stretch of the woods is on fire, how or why no one knows, such things are matters of indifference to the Turks.

_19th April._—To-night it has rained, a curious occurrence here at this season of the year; from this the air is somewhat cooler, the breeze for the first time refreshing. Mohammed Din has again departed to bring in a part of the tribute laid on his tribe; he wore the same dress as at first, with the white handkerchief the Pascha had given him as sign of pardon, tied round his neck. Poor man! what will this sign of peace avail you? Melek Mammud accompanies him with his Schaigies. He took a mysterious farewell of us, inviting us to visit him, and become acquainted with yonder country. This daring leader of Schaigies seems to have received some secret instructions as regards Mohammed Din, but how far his men may follow them seems doubtful, as they are all for war and nothing else.

_22nd April._—Mohammed Din has again returned, but tulba, (tribute) he has brought none; so to-day all the Sheiks have been warned, that only one month’s time will be allowed for them to bring in their contributions, and in that time it must unfailingly be done. We, brothers, are in the meantime laid daily under contributions by these Arabs, for their much loved aragi (properly araki, from _arak_, sweet, a kind of brandy made from lees of wine or from rice). Not a little were we at first astonished at their coolness, nay, barefaced impudence, in their asking and begging for all that pleased them, while it never occurs to any one of them to make the slightest return on their side, and any little courtesy these men do deign to display, is only when they hope to gain a special advantage by it. My brother has long ere now attended professionally on many of the Sheiks, furnishing them with medicines from our own store, and now, in their own land, it is almost impossible to procure milk, honey, or even a fat sheep, though all of these they have in abundance. To-day we have had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of the great Sheik (Sheik Kebir), of the tribe of Beni- Amer, between Habesch, the Red Sea, and the country of the Haddenda; but he must pardon us if we style him Pecus campi, and express our surprise how he can be held in any respect or estimation whatever, even by his own race. He is great, powerful, rich in camels, horses, cattle; in constant barter-trading with Habesch, and therefore has to pay a heavy tribute. The uncle of the Scheik, a very aged man, is of true herculean figure, but rather stout. My brother cured him of a disease in the leg, and, as his fee, had also to give him some bottles of aragi. He is still, though very old, with white hair and limping, a wild fellow, and an old lance is never out of his hand. If by chance he has drunk too much aragi or merissa, no very rare occurrence and sees a handsome horse or camel (in his own land), he at once asks for it, and if the Arab owner does not immediately comply, away goes the old lance through him. For his ferocity and strength all fear him; these, and his colossal figure, such as is seldom seen in this land, have gained him the name of Fill (Elephant).

It is singular, that with the strong bodies that both Negroes and Arabs here possess, none have any calves to their legs—neither man, nor woman. In the Negresses especially, as also in most of the women of Bellad- Sudan, the posteriors and thighs are much developed, but the under part of the legs are like sticks. None can boast of finer arms than these races, the women’s full and round, with well-turned elbows, and small delicate hands, the men’s strong and muscular, the breast high and arched. Truly beautiful are the bosoms of the young maidens, and of the women who have not yet borne children; small and most symmetrical in form, hard as stone to the touch, the nipples generally pointing outwards, and in such an erect state, that not rarely the firda is worn through in front by them. But, alas! alas! for these beautiful bosoms after a single child-birth! During child-bearing these are swollen, often to double their former size, and after the child has been long suckled, or at the end of that business, one sees on the youngest and prettiest wives, long empty breasts hanging down to the belly, which, from their smoothness, limpness, and many folds, resemble two long empty tobacco pouches, or, if one likes it better, two pieces of skin laid flat on each other. These repulsive looking bags they always leave bare and exposed to view, without the slightest blush, and it seems that here men’s ideas of beauty in a woman do not depend at all on this part of the female form, but include all in her _facultates occultæ_. After the first child-bearing, the abdomen, before so delicately arched, is disfigured by knobs and wrinkles, to an extent that as far as my brother’s medical experience went, he had never known common among white women; and this appearance among the women of these races, plainly declared, that they marry and bear children ere their bodies are fully matured. Nothing arrives at such sound maturity in these warm climes, where all develops itself so infinitely quicker than in cooler lands, and this rapid development, especially during child-bearing,—an epoch of evolution, which even with our matured women forces the body into all fulness of bloom,—works doubly injuriously on these half-matured girl- mothers. Nature and bodily power have both been overtasked; then comes the long suckling, the exclusive conversion of the small supply of nourishment to the use of the child, at the expense of the mother’s body, which afterwards cannot recover its exhausted powers, or gather sufficient strength to return to its former state. The extension of the skin and enlargement of the vessels are too sudden and rapid for the diminished powers of contraction to bring them back to a normal state; and herein lies, aided by the ever bad food, the continued consumption of vital power, which evidently, in every warm climate, produces that rapid advent of old age and ugliness among the women, as is only too plainly the case, even among the boasted beauties of Greece and Circassia.

As an exception, and perhaps from a feeling of good neighbourhood, the Sheik Defalla sent us to-day some sweet milk, but it had already been drawn some two hours, was firm, and in this state tasted well here, though it had neither the slight sourness, refreshing flavour, nor slight coating of cream, like our fresh milk, but a much sweeter taste. So rapidly and inexplicably does each change of health and body go on here, that at noon to-day both myself and brother were well again, and eat with excellent appetites; but after a short siesta which we took (when our meal was over), I awoke with strong fever, without being able in the most distant way to account for it. The great difference of temperature between day and night has, however, brought catarrhs and coughs on one-half the inmates of our camp, although it has hardly gone so far as to reach ague or intermittent fevers in any; but, on the other hand, syphilis prevails among the soldiers, as is most commonly the case. The Pascha to-day told us that in a weak battalion at Wollet Medine, 250 men suffered under this disease. Our cavalry, as well as the Schaigies and artillery, are ill off when sickness attacks any of them, as they have neither surgeon, medicine, nor hospital; and when my brother cannot prevail upon himself to leave them totally without medicine, he is compelled to prescribe it as if for some man of the infantry. The medicines for such stranger Sheiks as fall ill, are charged to the Pascha’s account. He has now at length finally settled with these Sheiks their tulba or contributions, and they to-day all set out, to proceed to their countries beyond the Beni Amer, to collect it. Some take small guards of twenty or thirty soldiers with them, thus to give more weight in their own lands to their demands, as there hatred against the Turks is united to Arab innate greed and avarice. Some few single Arabs still prowl about our camp, and it is therefore dangerous to send out the camels to feed, as they steal the beasts, or take them by violence from their keepers, when the latter are asleep or alone.

There have already been many establishments set up for the sale of merissa; the blacks seem totally unable to exist without this noble drink, or perhaps they would, by copious libations of it, repay their throats for swallowing the horrible mixtures which, during illness, the field apothecaries force them to take under the name of medicines. It is most scandalous to see how the Egyptian druggists, without exception, cheat government. Not only do they embezzle all linen furnished for hospital uses, to dress their own servants out with it, but they themselves use all the sugar intended for the sick, sell the medicines clandestinely, and have carried this so far with the here so all- necessary quinine and spiritus wucher, as to have none left, and now do not blush to manufacture false trash to issue in their stead. Ill it must go with them if any change of rule in Egypt causes a sharper eye to be kept on their doings; and among all of them in the Egyptian employ, there are not three who could pass the slightest medical examination of any European College of Surgeons. And where is the wonder it is so, as they are mostly a kind of wholesale, sham production, from the manufactory of Mr. Clot Bey, who, as _Chef du conseil général de santé_, can, in three months under him in Cairo, form out of common artisans skilful medical men, as was the case of the apothecary under my brother, who had before been a working goldsmith in Cairo; and of another of these _medicos_, whom I had known before as an honest knight of the thimble. As a matter of course, such men as these were ever going wrong and committing the most fearful blunders; but as for money-making, “_per fas et nefas_,” they were more expert, and follow ably the example set them by all the higher officials. Often did these gentry seek to make money in an allowed but most degrading way, and among others Gaetani Bey, the private surgeon of Mohammed Ali, who in Faszogl sold at enormous prices, with his own Bey’s hands, false pearls, large and small, to the negroes, and cheated them in the counting too. No one would credit the roguery and cheating that went on in the _conseil général de santé_ itself, who was not well acquainted with the state of things in Egypt; but all formed themselves after the example of their great master, and from him down to the lowest _employé_ of his department, runs a firmly-linked chain of like-minded and like-acting officials.

Already are the new branding-irons fabricated by Topschi Baschi, all in readiness to mark the expected contributions of camels, horses, cattle, cotton goods, &c.; and also two iron stars have been made—horrible barbarity!—for branding the new-made slaves. Our greatest plague is again the fearful heat, especially at noon and in the afternoon; one is ever in a constant sweat, even when sitting perfectly quiet, and everything is now wanting that could contribute to the commonest wants or enjoyments. Our Arabs are equally great admirers of tobacco as of onions, but in Taka there is as little of the one as the other, and not a single date is to be got, as here no date trees are known. Myself and brother would only too gladly advance farther into the country, and so become more closely acquainted with it, and its inhabitants, their manners, and way of life; but with one voice all counsel us, as we regard our own heads, to await a more suitable time. No great friendship does, in truth, seem to exist between the inmates of the camp and the natives, as never are any of the tribe of the Haddenda seen inside our fence, although these have retired no further into the Chaaba than some two hours’ journey from hence; but well do the measures of precaution, daily taken, show the light in which these people are viewed. Not only, every night, do the Turkish cavalry, Schaigies, and Magrabins bivouack outside the main camp and keep strict watch, but the infantry also place strong guards at the thorn bulwark, one half of this force being under arms before, the other after midnight. Most nights the Pascha himself goes, with his rabut, patrolling, and this, wielded by no light hand, plays all night, not on the soldiers’ backs alone, but on the officers also, when anything is found out of order. Doubtless, all this is most necessary, for leaders as well as soldiers are just the men to sleep all night long, and leave it to “Allah kerim” whether the enemy are to surprise them or not.

These bivouacks were not without their accidents. During one a Magrabin’s musket burst in his hands, and not only was the inside of one hand carried away, but part of the fore-arm shot off, and so lacerated, that most of the bones and sinews were laid bare and torn. As another surgeon wished to amputate at once, the Sheik Selim brought him to my brother: he put it to rights as far as he could, sewed up and plastered it, ordering constant cold bandagings, though he had little hopes of the lacerated parts uniting, as the accident happened yesterday, though the wounded man only came to him to-day at noon. When Joseph visited him this evening, no cold applications had been used; the patient fancied he must eat first, and as he had no food of his own, thought we might, perhaps, send him some;—a pleasant reward to my brother for all the pains he had already taken about him, and for which he had not received even a single word of thanks from any party.

A considerable number of the soldiers have been sent out to hasten the bringing in of the tribute, as in their presence each Scheik makes greater exertions, and it is possible they may pick up some knowledge of his country. We now at length discovered that each tribe under tulba pays 20 piastres each male (children not counted), and a tenth of all beasts and produce of all kinds. This tribute is not great, but still it will be heavily felt, and difficult to raise in those lands, where all trade is carried on by barter against cotton cloths. What taxes these tribes may have hereafter to pay, when the Turks find they have a firmer footing in the land, time will show.

After the Pascha had again to-day called his most devoted follower, the Major of Kordafan and Sennaar, an ass, complaining that everything fell on his own shoulders, he turned to me, and with much seeming satisfaction told me that the exploring expedition had returned from the White Nile, having traced that river for 600 miles upwards from Chartum. Now, this is either a great error or a great falsehood; nor can I resist the inclination I feel to investigate how far the Pascha’s favourite epithet may not apply to the leader of this expedition.

The chief commander of it, and general of its 400 soldiers, was Soliman Kaschef, of Karreri, a countryman and friend of the Pascha, who had sent him on this expedition to look after his interests, and have a special eye on Selim-Capitan, sent from Alexandria as chief leader. Men call Soliman Kaschef a good man, but though he may understand justly to allot and gather in the taxes of his district, still he is certainly no fit person to judge with accuracy of foreign countries and people, as regards their geographical position, cultivation, produce, industrious arts, and other such points, or to give them any hints how to better or increase them; nor is he fitted to observe if the Nile flows from a lake or hill, whether its course is east or west, &c. He has neither education, nor, as far as I know, inclination for such matters, and assuredly will ever have been thinking more of his harem at Karreri, and comfortable life there, than the aims of his journey; so the first plausible cause for a return will have been the pleasantest of all occurrences to him.

As admiral of the exploring fleet went the already-named short and well- fed Selim-Capitan, of Candia, a better judge of the qualities of young slaves than of navigation; and even only so far qualified and equipped for his office as one would expect from a proud, arrogant Mussulman. In one word, he is a perfect specimen of an Egyptian man-of-war captain. Such a one would not even admit of the idea of laying down a degree of latitude or longitude, to determine the position of a country, or the course of a river. [This however proved, as often happens in this world, a hastily formed opinion which I had entered in my journal, possibly from vexation at being prevented by sickness from personally taking part in the expedition, and partly because I could perceive no scientific knowledge about him; but I must now bear testimony, on the contrary, to his ability as a practical navigator, of which I had full proof during my later expedition on the White Nile, and in my account of that voyage I have already done so.] Besides, he is a man of mean, avaricious habits. The Soliman Kaschef is a liberal person, a quality that, well used, may do much in these exploring expeditions. The vice-admiral, by name Feizulla Capitan, is a man of good character, but, like the others, most remarkable merely from his ignorance. He indeed had passed five years in England, receiving instructions in naval science, and such matters; but every one asserts he came home as wise as he went, though he has picked up a smattering of English, with which he manages to make a show on all occasions.

These three gentlemen were the chiefs of the exploring expedition; and being such as they were, who could expect that any one of them could be of any service in such an affair? and as their rank and authority was pretty equal, it could be as little looked for that they should work in unison, or do their best, bad though that might be, to carry out the aims of their enterprise.