Chapter X: Part 10

The dealer gives the cards out all round, one after another, face downwards, until the whole pack is exhausted, and the aim of each player must be to win from his friends the whole of the twenty cards.

Supposing the name of "Shah of Persia" to have been given to the king of diamonds, "The Afghan King" to the king of clubs, and "Good Jack Faithful" to the king of hearts; the elder hand then begins by asking from any one of the players he may choose to select a card which he imagines they may have. He himself may have in his own hand three members of one family; if so, he must try to get the other two members, and succeeding in doing so, he must throw the whole family on the table, and devote his energies to the acquisition of the other families. The task, however, devolving upon each player of collecting the different members of the four families is by no means an easy one.

Every time a card is asked for, the player who makes the demand, in doing so, gives to the company a certain amount of information respecting his own hand, because he may not lawfully ask for the Shah of Persia's dog unless he should already possess either the Shah himself or some other member of the family. If the card asked for be given him, he may ask for another card from either the same person who acceded to his request or from any one else; but as soon as he is refused, his privilege passes on to the person who was unable to give him what he asked for, and who may possibly request the return of the very cards he has been called upon to relinquish. Thus the game goes on until one of the players is left without cards, who retires as out. The rest of the players proceed in the same way until another is out, then another, and so on, until at last two players only are left to end the struggle.

* * * * *

HAPPY FAMILIES.

Although, without doubt, the well-known game of Happy Families is nothing but a variation of Spade the Gardener, the rules of the game are not quite the same. In some respects, perhaps, the game of Happy Families may be the better game of the two, for the reason that, in consequence of there being many more cards belonging to it, a great many more players can take part in it. In one of the ordinary Happy Family packs there are eleven families, though, instead of each family containing five members, as in Spade the Gardener, there are usually only four in Happy Families, namely, father, mother, son, and daughter.

A pool is first formed by every player giving a certain number of counters, and the cards are dealt round one by one, face downwards.

On looking at their cards, the player to the left of the dealer begins by asking any one in the company to give him a certain card, which he needs, perhaps, to complete a family or to help to do so, because the object of each player in this game is to secure for himself as many tricks as possible.

If the card he asks for be given him, he may go on asking from the same person or from any one else; but should he be refused, it is the turn of the person who refused to ask.

It is a rule that no one shall ask for a card unless he be already supplied with one card, at any rate, of the same suit, and every one also is bound to produce the card asked for if he can do so.

When the different members of the families are gathered together and united, the player who has taken the greatest number of tricks wins the pool.

* * * * *

BÉZIQUE.

Before describing the game of Bézique, which, under the name of Penuchle, is greatly in favour among the Germans, it will perhaps be advisable to give a list of the technical terms employed in it.

_Single Bézique_.--The queen of spades and knave of diamonds, which
count 40.

_Double Bézique_.--Two queens of spades and two knaves of diamonds,
which count 500.

_Brisques_.--The aces and tens in the tricks taken count 10 each.

_Common Marriage_.--The king and queen of any suit but trumps, which
count 20.

_Bézique Pack_.--The same as the Euchre, Piquet, or Écarté pack,
composed of thirty-two cards, all under the sevens, except the aces,
being discarded.

_Quint Major_.--Same as sequence.

_Royal Marriage_.--The king and queen of trumps, which count 40.

_Sequence_.--Ace, king, queen, knave, and ten of trumps, which count
250.

_Stock_.-The number of packs of cards corresponding with the number of
players, shuffled together, and ready to be dealt.

_Talon_.--The cards remaining after the dealer has distributed eight to
each player.

_Declaration_.--Showing and scoring any combinations, such as those
mentioned above.

Four aces count 100

Four kings " 80

Four queens " 60

Four knaves " 40

Seven of trumps, when turned or played, counts 10.

Exchanging or playing the seven of trumps counts 10.

The last trick counts 10.

This game is most commonly played by two persons with two packs of cards; but there must be a pack for every person playing, so that if four play four packs must be used, from which, as has been said, all cards under seven have been taken out excepting aces. After shuffling and cutting, the dealer gives three cards to his adversary and three to himself, then he gives two, then three again, until both players are supplied with eight cards each. The remainder of the pack, which is called the talon, are left on the table, and the top card of it is turned up for the trump. Should the turn-up happen to be a seven, the dealer is thereby entitled to score ten to himself. After a trick has been made, the holder of a seven of trumps can, if so inclined, exchange it for the trump card, and for the exchange he scores ten.

The value of the cards in making the tricks is as follows: _ace_ (which takes all other cards), ten, king, queen, knave, nine, eight, seven. Trumps are of no special value until the last eight tricks are in the hands of both players.

The player who wins the first trick takes the top card from the talon, thus completing his original number of eight. The person also who has lost the trick does the same; and so on, until all the cards in the talon are exhausted. As in other card games, the winner of a trick is entitled to the next lead.

When cards of the same value are played at the same round, the first that was turned up wins the trick, unless, of course, it should be trumped or beaten by a card higher in value. When a player wishes to _declare_, he must do so immediately after taking a trick, and before supplying himself with a new card from the talon; and such cards as form a combination, after being declared, should be placed on the table, face upwards; being of the same value as if in the hand, they may be played away as they are needed. When the talon is exhausted, the combinations that have been made are taken into the owner's hand, and the last eight cards belonging to both players are disposed of the same way as in Whist, the second player following suit, and heading the trick, if he can possibly do so, either by trumping or playing a higher card. After Bézique has been declared, the cards forming that combination cannot be employed to form any other. It is wise, therefore, to keep back the queen and knave to help to form other combinations before declaring Bézique, especially when diamonds or spades happen to be trumps. In that case the queen may assist in making a royal marriage, a sequence, or one of four queens, while the knave may help to form a sequence or one of four knaves, both being also used afterwards in the declaration of Bézique. All kings and queens are better kept in hand until they can be married; consequently, should the player be uncertain whether to throw away an ace or a king, if practicable, let it be the former. Although four aces count more than four kings, the declaration of four aces is not an easy matter to accomplish, while it is very probable that an opportunity may arise for marrying a king, when the pair may be thrown into the adversary's tricks. The aces and tens of trumps are better reserved for the last eight tricks, and a player should try to get the lead by taking the trick previous to exhausting the talon. The adversary will thus be obliged to part with his aces and tens by playing them on the cards that are led. The leader, if strong in trumps, may thus secure all the tricks, and may also earn the privilege of making the last declaration.

BÉZIQUE WITHOUT A TRUMP.

This is very much like the ordinary game, the difference being that the trump card is decided, not by the last turned up after the deal, but by the first marriage that is declared. The seven of trumps also does not count ten points.

The Béziques, four kings, four queens, &c., are counted the same as in Bézique when the trump is turned, and can be declared before the trump is determined. It is the same with the other cards which constitute combinations; their value is the same as in the proper game of Bézique.

* * * * *

SNAP.

The game of Snap may either be played with the ordinary Whist cards or with special cards prepared for the purpose, though perhaps when the former are used it is for the simple reason that there are no real Snap cards at hand. The latter are certainly less bewildering and more interesting.

Since the first introduction of Snap, the original figures have been varied and improved upon in many ways, though the rules for playing the game continue the same. Among the later additions, the Floral Snap (if not quite so laughable as some of its predecessors) is at any rate as interesting and artistic.

Each pack consists of about fifty cards, on four, five, or six of which are represented the same object. A similar number of cards depict another object, a similar number again another object, and so on with the whole pack. Thus on four cards may be a rose, on other four a yellow lily, on other four a geranium, on four more a pansy, and on the rest of the cards other flowers.

The whole pack is dealt round, face downwards, to any number of players, who must each place his own cards before him without looking at them. The first player begins by turning up the top card of the pile, the next does the same, and so on, but as soon as any one turns up a card resembling one that has already been exposed, he calls _Snap_, at the same time winning all the cards that happen to have been turned up by the owner of the card resembling his own. If, however, the owner of the card is fortunate enough to call Snap first, the tables are turned, the first _Snapper_ becoming possessor of the other's cards.

The utmost vigilance is required to play the game at all successfully; every one must be on the strict look-out in order to let no opportunity pass that would entitle him to call Snap, because, as will very soon be discovered, those who do not call Snap frequently will very soon be _out_, and will only be able to sit by as spectators of the merriment. The quickest of players will, however, in course of time be obliged to retire from the scene of action; one by one they will find themselves destitute of cards, until at last the contest remains to be fought out by two players only.

At this crisis the excitement has generally reached its highest pitch, and the fortunate one of these two players left with the cards in his hand is the winner of the game.

* * * * *

ZETEMA.

In some points Zetema resembles both Cribbage and Bézique; still, in reality, as will be found after a little experience by the player, it is like neither; and, although it may not in the estimation of most card-players be exactly superior to those games, it is quite as interesting and as exciting.

Proper sets of Zetema cards may be bought of any ordinary card dealer, though in the absence of them Whist cards may be made to answer the purpose instead.

The advantage of being supplied with the former, however, lies in the fact that with them is appended a Table of Scores like the following, a knowledge of which is indispensable to the player:--

TABLE OF SCORES.

_Assemblies._ _Points._

For an assembly of the five Kings 100
" " Queens 100
" " Knaves 90
" " Aces 80
" " Fives 80
" " Any others 60

MARRIAGES. _Points._

Declaration of marriage 10

Declaration of imperial marriage, that is, the second marriage of
The duplicated suit, after the other has been declared 20

Declaration of two marriages at one declaration 30

Declaration of two marriages at one declaration, of which one is
the imperial marriage 40

Declaration of the two marriages of the duplicated, but at one
declaration 50

Declaration of three marriages at one declaration 60

Declaration of three marriages at one declaration, of which one is
the imperial marriage 70

Declaration of three marriages, of which two are of the duplicated
suit, at one declaration 80

Declaration of four marriages at one declaration 100

Declaration of four marriages at one declaration, of which one is
the imperial marriage 110

Declaration of four marriages, of which two are of the duplicate
suit, at one declaration 120

Declaration of the five marriages at one declaration 150

Declaration of a flush, or of all the cards in hand being of one
suit, which must not be the duplicate suit 30

Declaration of a sequence, or when all the cards in hand follow
each other in order of value or number 30

TRICKS.

King or queen trick (when made) 50
Knave trick do. 20
Ace trick do. 15
Five trick do. 15
All other tricks do. 5

Penalties for playing out of turn or accidentally exposing a card
during play:--

1st.--The card must be left exposed on the table until the player's
turn comes round, when it must be played.

2nd.--The player cannot draw, under any circumstances, at that time
from the pack to complete his hand, but must continue one card short.

3rd.--If the exposed card be a winning card, the score is lost.

4th.--If not a winning card, it will follow the usual course.

On opening a pack of Zetema cards, it will be seen that they are composed of a full pack of Whist cards, with the addition of a double set of one of the suits. When ordinary cards are used, it is immaterial which suit is chosen to be duplicated; all that is necessary is that before beginning to play the double suit should be declared.

Each trick, therefore, consists of five cards instead of four, and as some of these tricks are much more valuable than others, the aim of every player should be to secure the highest tricks. The combination known as an assembly, and which is mentioned in the score, is simply a trick not yet played, but still held in hand.

Five cards of equal value do not often fall to the lot of any one, therefore this combination does not often occur; and in most cases it is, perhaps, wise for players to be satisfied with something less. Still, when a player holds in his hand two or three kings or two or three queens, he is quite justified in making an attempt to secure the _five_, in order that he may lay claim to the highest score; because, as will be seen from the list, an assembly, either of five kings or of five queens, counts 100.

When all the six cards in hand are of the same suit, the owner of them can lay claim to a score of thirty, though this combination is not a very common one, because flushes of the duplicated suits do not count. The most likely time to secure a _flush_ is when not many of the same suit have been already played.

The _sequence_ combination is generally the best paying of all, especially when the number of players is only small. The ace may be counted either as one or as best card, whichever will be most advantageous to the player.

Therefore, if one, two, three, four, five, six; four, five, six, seven, eight, nine; or nine, ten, knave, queen, king, ace, be possessed by any one, the owner of such cards may score thirty. Sequence cards must, of course, follow in rotation, but they need not be of the same suit; and after counting a sequence, and also after counting a flush, four of the same cards may be employed in making another sequence or flush.

In Two-handed Zetema, four, or even five, sequences are often counted in the playing of one game. A common marriage, which scores ten, is secured to any one who plays a king and queen of the same suit. The imperial marriage consists of the second king and queen of the duplicate suit. The playing of the first king and queen of this suit constitutes nothing more than a _common_ marriage.

Experience will teach the player that when he holds three or four kings and queens in his hand, he will gain more by keeping them back until he can declare them all at once than by declaring them singly, because the declaration of two or three marriages at the same time score much more in comparison than if declared singly.

With regard to tricks, the player should make every effort possible to secure the knave trick, which scores twenty, and the ace trick and the five trick, which score fifteen each. The person entitled to score the tricks is the one who plays the last or fifth card of the same value; by doing so he gains five. It is only possible to make a king or queen trick when an assembly of one of them has been declared; the others then being played in the same way as the cards lower in value, the trick scores fifty. When four or more persons play at Zetema they must arrange themselves in couples, as at Whist, and sit opposite to each other, one of each couple undertaking to mark the scores, the other turning and collecting the tricks; but when only two or three play every one scores for himself.

When not more than four are playing, the dealer distributes six cards to each player, placing all the cards that remain face downwards on the table. Every one then carefully examines the cards given him, to ascertain what course it would be wise for him to adopt. A study of the rules will enable him to decide which declaration he will most likely be able to make. As in Bézique, every player should always have six cards in his hand. After playing one, therefore, he must take up a card from the _over cards_ on the table to make up his number. This must be done, however, at once, immediately after he has played a card, otherwise he cannot claim it, and must suffer the consequence, which, doubtless, will be that he cannot in that hand score either a sequence or a flush. In attempting to form sequences it is advisable, as in Bézique, to retain, if possible, such cards as would help to make another sequence. The card drawn sometimes happens to be of the same value as one of those held in the hand; in that case one of them may be made to contribute towards an additional sequence.

The player of the fifth card who completes a trick when four cards have already been played cries "Zetema" as he turns the trick, and scores for it. Thus the game goes on until all the _over cards_ have been gradually withdrawn, the taking of the last of these being the signal for the best part of the game to begin. The playing of the last six cards and the making of the rest of the marriages and tricks form usually the most exciting part of the whole affair.

The player most of all to be envied is the drawer of the last card on the table; for this reason, that as every one else must play their card first, he has the opportunity of retaining command of an imperial marriage or of any other good trick until the end of the game.

Although the declaration of two or three marriages is highly advantageous, still there is no danger in playing one of the cards of a marriage in one round, and declaring the marriage in the next round, rather than play them both at once. When there are more than four players, five cards instead of six must be given to each by the dealer, the flushes and sequences being, of course, smaller in comparison. Before attempting to play, a thorough knowledge of the rules must be acquired, and also great care and prudence must be exercised throughout the whole game, in order to ensure success.

* * * * *

FRENCH VINGT-UN, OR ALBERT SMITH.

This lively and amusing game is a variation of the ordinary game of Vingt-un, and is well worthy of the popularity it has gained among most lovers of card games. For a round game it is especially suitable, not only because any number of players may join in it, but for the reason that even while playing it is not necessary for the attention of the players to be so entirely absorbed in the game as to be unable to manifest any interest in anything else that may be going on in the room. It is perhaps longer than most ordinary card games, and should not therefore be entered upon by players who have not plenty of time at their disposal.

In making the necessary preparations for it, a good supply of counters must be provided, and a very excellent plan sometimes adopted is to limit the number staked to three, the dealer having the privilege at any time to double the stakes, should he be so inclined.

The eight rounds of which the game consists are all played differently; the first one resembles the _Ordinary Vingt-un_. The second round is called _Imaginary Tens_, and also resembles Vingt-un, excepting that each player, whatever cards have been dealt to him, counts them as ten more than they really are. As in Vingt-un, one card is given to each player, and before receiving it he must make his stake. To this card the imaginary ten is added, and then the players either take more cards or stand, in order as near as possible to make twenty-one. Third round, or _Blind Vingt-un_, comes next, in which each player, after making his stake, has two cards dealt to him. On these two cards he may either stand or draw more, but whatever decision he makes, it must be arrived at without looking at his cards. In the fourth round, which is known as _Sympathy_ or _Antipathy_, every one makes his stake, and then announces upon which of the two he will stake, Sympathy or Antipathy, the former being expressed by two cards of the same colour, the latter by two cards different in colour. He then receives from the dealer two cards, which, if corresponding with his choice, makes him winner of _the stake_; if the contrary, he must pay the dealer. Fifth round, or _Rouge et Noir_, closely resembles the preceding round, excepting that, instead of two cards, one card only is given to each player, whose stake has reference to nothing more than the colour of the card. In some circles three cards instead of one are dealt. When this plan is adopted the colour is decided by two out of three. In the sixth round, called _Self and Company_, two cards are put down by the dealer, one of which he names _self_, and the other _company_. A stake consisting of a certain number of counters is then placed upon the table by each player, and if the two cards that have been dealt prove to be pairs the dealer wins, but if otherwise he must go on dealing until a card is turned up that pairs with either _self_ or _company_, the card thus paired being the winner; the dealer receiving or paying, as the case may be. In the seventh round, or _Pips_, as it is called, there is no staking whatever. The dealer simply gives two cards all round, including himself. He then compares his own with those of each of the company, and every one whose cards are less in value than the dealer's gives him as many counters as will make the difference, while, on the other hand, the dealer has to pay in the same way those whose cards are higher than his. Ties cancel each other, and the ace reckons as _one_, not as _eleven_. The last and eighth round is called the _Clock_. A certain stake being agreed upon, each player lays his counters in front of him. The dealer then begins to deal face upwards, at the same time counting up to thirteen, or rather up to ten, when he says "knave, queen, king." During the counting, should he happen to turn up a card corresponding with the number he is at the time calling out, he wins all the stakes, but if he counts as far as king, that is thirteen, and every card has been different to the numbers he has called, he pays all round the amount that has been staked by each player.

As may be imagined, these eight rounds cannot be played in a very short space of time. When they are completed the deal is transferred to the left of the last dealer, who begins again with the first round.

* * * * *

BEGGAR MY NEIGHBOUR.

This game, although requiring no amount of intellectual power, has been, and no doubt still will be, a source of great amusement. The cards are dealt, face downwards, equally to as many as wish to join in the game. The first player begins by putting down the first card. If it be a one, two, three, or anything but a court card, he continues putting down one after another, until at last he turns up a court card. If this turn-up be a king, his neighbour must pay to him three cards, if a queen two cards, and if a knave one card. When the payment is made, the first player takes up the whole of the cards that have been laid down, and puts them underneath those in his hand.

If, however, among the cards that were paid to the first player the second player should have played a court card, he receives payment in the same way from the third player; and if when the third player is playing he puts down a court card, he receives payment from the fourth player, and so on, the cards being taken up each time by the person who receives his due in ordinary cards.

* * * * *

CATCH THE TEN.

In this game, which in many circles is known as Scottish Whist, the aim of every player is to catch the ten of trumps, or to prevent its falling into the hands of an opponent. Two, three, four, five, or six persons may play, the arrangement of the party depending, of course, upon the number of the players engaged. A party, consisting of four, divide into couples as at Whist. When there are two, three, or five players, each plays upon his own account. When six play, A, C, and E are against B, D, and F, or A, and D, B, and E, C, and F in three partnerships; the partners sitting opposite to each other with an adversary between each two. Out of a full pack of cards, the twos, threes, fours, and fives are thrown out, and, if necessary, for an equal division of the cards, one or more of the sixes. With the exception of the trump suit the cards value the same as at Whist, and the method of playing is also the same. Trumps count as follows: The knave, which is the best, reckons _eleven_; the ten for _ten_; ace, _four_; king, _three_; and queen, _two_. The trump suit is reckoned, not as in Whist, by the original possessors of the cards, but to those who may be fortunate enough to take them during the game. The players must of course follow suit, and the penalty for a revoke is the loss of the game. Forty-one is game, the points of which are made by counting the cards in the tricks taken and the honours of trumps. The surest way of saving the ten is to play it in a round of trumps, when one of your partners has played the best trump; or, if you happen to be last player, and have none of the suit led, trump with your ten, if it will take the trick, or if your partner has already taken it. Should the leader happen to have knave and king, or ace and king, he would do wisely to play two rounds of trumps, so that he may have the chance of catching the ten in the second round.

* * * * *

CHEAT.

This lively round game may be joined in by any number of players, who must, first of all, have dealt to them equally a pack of fifty-two cards. As soon as all have examined their hands, the player on the left of the dealer begins by playing the lowest card he has, face downwards (_ace_ counting lowest), at the same time calling out what it is. The next player puts down a card, face downwards, and calls the next number; thus, should the first player play a one, the second player, whatever his card may be, must call out _two_. As it is not necessary for the card laid down to correspond with the number called, the fun of the game consists in putting down the wrong card. Any one of the company is at liberty, however, to challenge a player to show the card last played, immediately after it has been put down, by calling out _Cheat_. In this case the player must show his card, and if it should not be what he said it was, he must take all the cards laid down. As the player who first finishes his cards wins the game it is greatly to his disadvantage to have a new number added to his original stock. The player who is cheated recommences the next call.

* * * * *

TRUTH.

For this capital round game two packs of cards must be provided, one of which is handed, complete, to a member of the party who consents to lead the game, and which he must place by his side, face downwards, the other being dealt to the company, card by card, until it is exhausted. The leader then begins by putting any question he likes to the players, the answer to which is obtained by the following method:--When he asks his question, he at the same time turns up the top card of the undealt pack. Whatever this card may be the leader calls for the counterpart to it from one of the players, the one who exhibits it being the one to reply to the question. Ridiculous personal questions are sure to create more fun than anything else. For instance, should the leader ask, "Who is the vainest person in the room?" and, at the same time turn up the queen of hearts, the player unfortunate enough to possess the similar card in the other pack is the ill-fated individual who then proclaims his vanity. As a slight compensation, however, for his ill-luck, he is entitled to put the next question, which may, of course, be as unmerciful as the one asked concerning himself. As each question and answer card are produced they are laid aside; and thus the game proceeds until both packs are finished.

PARLOUR MAGIC.

CONJURING.

Nowadays Conjuring has its professors and teachers, and may be ranked as a science, if not as an art. Tricks that have astonished audiences for a length of time are explained upon the payment of fees, and instructions are given to amateurs as to how to perform them; but in these pages we aim at nothing beyond describing certain tricks and telling how they are done, and we would seriously urge our young friends to remember that between this and teaching them how to perform the tricks there is a vast difference. Many of the tricks described may be performed on the descriptions here given, but any one anxious to become an adept even in what we describe will be well repaid in the greater amusement he will be able to provide for his friends if he takes a few lessons from some professor of magic. Valuable hints may be obtained from various books, and we heartily recommend, for pleasant reading as well as for study, the works of Piesse, Hoffmann, Cremer, and the "Memoirs of Robert Houdin." Perhaps next after personal lessons in the art, Hoffmann's will be found the most instructive book as to details; Cremer's gives the best variety of simple tricks adapted to the drawing-room or parlour; while for general interest and fascinating reading the "Memoirs of Robert Houdin" will carry off the palm against many novels and romances.

The following general hints and directions must always be borne in mind. The simplest trick cannot be performed without much patience and perseverance; every trick must be practised over and over again before attempting it in the presence of an audience. It is advisable to practise the tricks before a looking-glass, and for two reasons: firstly, to see that you are doing the trick neatly; and secondly, it is a training in accustoming the eyes not to look at the hands during the performance of a sleight. A conjurer should always have his eyes fixed intently on his audience, and keep up during the exhibition of his tricks an ever flowing talk or "patter." He must never lose confidence in himself; if so, all is lost. Nor must he call attention to what is about to be done; but when the trick is really done, he should then direct the attention of the audience to it, as if it were about to be done. A trick should not be repeated; if an encore is called for, a similar trick should be substituted. The object of the conjurer is always not to be found out.

The cultivation of the art of talking, or the use of "patter," is a leading essential to success; it is as necessary to rehearse the conversation to be used as the tricks to be exhibited. The talking, too, must always be uttered as if that were really the most important part of the entertainment, the tricks being only accessory thereto. This judicious "patter" will not only keep the audience amused, but will prevent them from concentrating their attention more closely than is desirable upon the manipulations of the performer. If some "clever fellow" should be present, more intent upon perplexing the performer than upon being amused, it will be necessary in self-defence to play off some tricks at his expense early in the entertainment.

The conjurer should dispense with all grotesque attire, ordinary evening or morning dress being ample. He should also do without confederates in the audience and assistants on the stage or platform, but an assistant behind the scenes will sometimes be very necessary. Showing off merely mechanical or automatic tricks is to be avoided. Many of them are very wonderful, but the whole credit of them is due to their inventors. As a general rule, the _Magician's Wand_ and the _Magician's Table_ are all the materials needed for the practice of conjuring sufficient to amuse a friendly audience in a drawing-room for an hour or more. The _wand_ in itself is of no real use, but it serves as a means of directing the attention of the audience away from the hands of the performer, when it is judiciously placed upon or removed from the table, or when pointed at some particular object. It should be a tapering stick or ruler, from a foot to a foot and a half in length. The _table_ may or may not be specially prepared, but it should be a few inches higher than an ordinary table, in order that the operator may stand at it, and if necessary place his hand behind and below, without stooping or appearing to arrange anything under it; a drawer or cloth judiciously placed will sometimes be necessary. With these general remarks we will proceed with our programme, giving first a few

SIMPLE DECEPTIONS AND MINOR TRICKS.

EATABLE CANDLE-ENDS.

Punch with a metal tube a few pieces out of some apples; place in one end of each piece a strip of burnt almond, and make the whole look as much like candle-ends as possible. During the entertainment have them brought in, and, lighting them one by one, proceed to explain in the "patter" the relish there is in tallow, and then eat them off as quickly as possible. The almond strips imitating the wick of the candle should be slightly oiled, to make them burn readily. A quick lad will be able easily to extinguish the flame before it reaches his mouth without letting it appear that the flame is extinguished. The imitation candle-ends should _not_ be handed round for inspection; but when the performer is able to make a clever substitution it may be advisable to allow some _real_ candle-ends to be carefully examined.

The instructions as to _How to Swallow a Flame_ come in appropriately here. On putting the candle or other lighted object to the mouth, breathe strongly inwards; the flame will then enter the mouth without touching or scorching the lips, and as the lips close will become extinguished.

TO PULL A STRING THROUGH A BUTTON-HOLE.

Tie together the ends of a piece of string about two feet long; pass it thus tied through a button-hole of the performer's coat; hitch each end on to one or other of the thumbs, catch up with the little fingers the upper strings on the thumbs of the opposite hand; then stretching out the hands will have the effect of giving the string a very complicated appearance. If the hold of the right thumb and left little finger, or _vice versâ_, be then loosed, and the hands smartly separated, the string will come away from, and seem as though it had passed through, the substance of the coat.

THE CUT STRING RESTORED.

Take a piece of string about four feet long; hold the ends, points upwards, between the first and second finger and thumb of the left hand and the first finger and thumb of the right hand, letting the remainder of the string hang down in a loop; then bring the right hand close to the left, crossing at right angles that end of the cord held in the left hand, and continue to pull until half the length of the string has passed the left hand, at the same time slipping the third finger of the left hand between the two parts of the string. The first finger and thumb of the right hand should then seize the string at a point just below the little finger of the left hand, the third finger of that hand at the same time drawing back the string towards the palm of the hand. The part of the string now held horizontally between the two hands is only the continuation of the end held in the left hand, although it will appear to be the middle of the string. This piece of the string some one of the audience should be invited to cut, and thus apparently cut the string in half, although in fact he will only be cutting off two or three inches. Place all the ends of the string between the teeth, withdraw the short piece with the tongue, and show the remainder--apparently the string as it was at the commencement. Of course, the string must not be measured, or the trick will be detected. Some little practice will be needed before the necessary arrangement of the string can be neatly made.

THE MUSICAL SNAIL.

A common garden snail may be made to perform musical sounds by making it crawl along a pane of glass placed on rests like a sounding-board; the sounds emitted will be something like those of a harmonium.

TO EXTRACT A CORK FROM A BOTTLE WITHOUT TOUCHING THE CORK.

Fill a bottle full of water or other liquid, and cork it so tightly that the bottom of the cork is flush with the liquid. Wrap the bottle round at the bottom with a thick cloth, and knock it against some immovable object. The motion of the water acting as a solid body should force out the cork.

THE BOTTLE FOUNTAIN.

Force a glass tube, one end of which is a trifle larger than the other end, through the stopper of a bottle, with the small end of the tube upwards. The bottle should be about two-thirds full of water, and the tube should reach nearly, but not quite, to the bottom. Blow with considerable force down the tube, and on quickly removing the mouth the water will spurt out, forming a fountain of spray so long as any water remains in the bottle.

TO PLACE WINE UNDER A HAT, AND TO DRINK IT WITHOUT TOUCHING THE HAT.

Cover a glass of wine over with a hat placed on an ordinary table, and say that you will drink the wine without touching the hat. As a preliminary, impress upon the company the necessity of every one abstaining from touching the hat; then get under the table, and pretend from there to drink the wine by sucking it through the table. After getting up, request some person (who will not be likely to refuse) to remove the hat, in order to ascertain whether the wine has disappeared. Immediately upon this being done, take up the glass and swallow its contents, claiming to have drunk the wine without lifting the hat. Of course this deception should not be practised more than once before the same audience.

* * * * *

CARD TRICKS AND COMBINATIONS.

For Parlour Magic a pack of cards will be found the source of endless amusement and variety. For the sleight-of-hand card tricks considerable practice is needed before they can be performed neatly and cleverly, so as to prevent the detection of the trick. To _palm a card_, to _make the pass_, to _force a card_, to _make a false shuffle_, to _sight a card_, are necessary accomplishments for the conjurer to learn and practise. As a general rule, it will be found more convenient to exhibit card tricks with a piquet pack of cards, or with an ordinary pack from which have been thrown out the twos, threes, fours, fives, and sixes; the pack so reduced can more readily be palmed; indeed, for a lad whose hand has not attained its full size, the reduction of the pack from fifty-two cards is absolutely necessary.

TO PALM A CARD.

This consists in bringing a card from the general pack into the hollow of the hand and keeping it there unperceived. The card it is desired to palm should first be brought to the top of the pack; hold the pack, with the faces of the cards downwards, in the left hand, covering the pack with the right hand. Push the card to be palmed until it projects beyond the edge of the pack; with the third finger of the left hand press the card upwards into the right hand, which should be half closed over it. Slightly bend the card, and it will lie snugly curved up against the inside of the hand. The better to prevent detection, then take the pack of cards between the finger and thumb of the right hand and offer it to be shuffled. If the palmed card is not known by the performer this will give him an opportunity of seeing it. The mere motion of taking the pack into the hand will give sufficient opportunity to return the palmed card into the pack. The possessor of a large hand with long fingers may in this way, if necessary, palm a whole pack of cards, and so enable him to increase very considerably his repertoire of card tricks.

TO MAKE THE PASS.

No one should attempt conjuring tricks with cards until he has thoroughly mastered this sleight; it requires a good deal of practice to perform it neatly and without risk of detection. Its object is to reverse the respective positions of the top and bottom halves of the pack. There are various methods of producing this result, some requiring the use of both hands and some of one hand only. Upon the instructions here given the plan may be varied after experience has been gained, but M. Robert Houdin states that at least an hour a day for a fortnight should be devoted to practising the "pass" before the conjurer appears before an audience. At any rate, it is useless to attempt card-conjuring until the "pass" has been mastered. The following description of how to make the pass is derived from Hoffmann's translation of Houdin's account of the trick:--The cards are to be held in the left hand, with the faces downwards, and between the two cards at which the pass is to be made the tip of the little finger is to be inserted; then cover the whole pack with the right hand, and at the same time take between the middle finger and thumb of that hand the opposite ends of the cards forming the lower portion of the pack; with the little and middle fingers of the left hand draw away and make the upper packet pass under the lower packet of cards. The whole trick will, after practice, be done easily, lightly, noiselessly, and in less than a second. The different motions here separately described will have to be done simultaneously, and with such rapidity that no motion of the cards should be apparent.

TO FORCE A CARD.

This means that when offering a pack to one of the audience for him to draw from it any card he chooses he is made to draw that card which the performer wants. The trick, although of some difficulty to perform successfully, is really more dependent upon mental address than upon manipulation. The card to be forced should be placed either at the top or the bottom of the pack, and by a cut brought into the middle of the pack, and should be held by the little finger, as explained in making the pass, immediately above that finger. Proceed with the pack closed to some one of the audience, requesting that a card may be taken, at the same time spreading the whole pack out fan-wise, and very slightly pushing forward the card to be taken. In all probability the card offered will be taken, owing to its being slightly more prominent than the rest; but if it seems that any other card is about to be selected close the pack up, appear to cut it again, and make the offer a second time. Be very careful not to spread out the cards until the invitation to take one has been given--so long as the pack is closed a card cannot readily be removed--but immediately upon giving the invitation spread the whole pack out, slightly advancing the desired card as instructed. If by inadvertence the wrong card is allowed to be taken, the mistake may be remedied by forcing the desired one upon some other person. The card to be forced should not be held, while all the other cards should be tightly secured in one or other of the performer's hands. The readiness with which the forced card may be removed will imperceptibly act as an inducement to its removal. If, on the other hand, the wrong card should be taken--and from the nature of the trick it is unadvisable to force the right card upon a second person--let the card taken be again placed in the pack; palm it in accordance with the instructions given as to palming a card, and manage then, unperceived, to get a sight of it, when it may answer all the purposes that the card it was desired to force would have answered.

TO SIGHT A CARD.

As stated above, it is sometimes necessary to sight a given card, and this has to be done in the presence of, but yet altogether unknown to, the spectators. The following plan will generally be found to succeed:--Slip the little finger, as in making the pass, under the card that it is desired to look at, bend the top half of the pack upwards and the bottom half downwards, so that in a modified degree they make two packs, bent in a concave form, thus:--. The cards may then readily and openly be cut at the desired point, and a careless wave of the hand holding the pack will enable the performer to get the necessary sight of the desired card. Houdin's instruction on this point is apparently simpler, but we think more difficult to attain by an inexperienced performer. After instructing as to the position of the little finger, he says that the pack should be opened at that point with extreme rapidity, and the card ascertained by a swift glance. This method undoubtedly is better, if it can be safely performed without detection; but the rapidity of motion and the swiftness of the glance will be difficulties not easily overcome by an amateur magician.

THE FALSE SHUFFLE.

This is a movement intended to neutralise suspicions that may be held by spectators to the effect that the cards are retained in a pre-arranged order. There are several kinds of false shuffles, but the performer must use his discretion as to which he adopts. Generally speaking, however, it is only one, or at most a few cards that it is desired not to lose sight of, and then the neatest so-called _false shuffle_ will be that which permits the pack, as a whole, to be genuinely shuffled, while the card or cards to be kept in view are retained in one position in the pack, secured either at the top or bottom of the pack, or the place where they may be found may be designated by means of the little finger, as in making the pass.

Clumsy performers who find a difficulty in mastering the above preliminaries of card-conjuring sometimes make use of what is called the _Long Card_.

THE LONG CARD.

This is a card either a trifle longer or wider, or both longer and wider, than the remainder of the pack; the difference being such that, although readily distinguishable by the touch of the performer, it is not perceptible to the eye of the spectator. To make the long card, have the whole pack, excepting one card, slightly shaved down at a book-binder's; this can be done in a second by placing the cards in a book-binder's cutting machine. The use of the long card should, however, be as much as possible avoided: it encourages the use of mechanical appliances, when a little diligence will overcome all difficulties by sleight-of-hand. Remember, as the penny showman announces at country fairs, that "The true Hart of Conjuring is to make the And of the performer deceive the Heye of the spectator."

TO GUESS A CARD THOUGHT OF.