Chapter VIII: Part 8

When you have played all your trumps, do not choose a suit from which your partner threw away when he was not able to follow your trump lead. Of course he is weak in that suit. If he has thrown away more than one suit, play the suit from which he last threw away.

Leading a high card, then a low one from the same suit, indicates weakness, or it may indicate a wish to have trumps led. Trumping second hand at an early stage of the game also indicates weakness.

When you and your partner have all the trumps between you, if you wish to throw the lead into his hand play a small one.

There are some instances when it is polite to win your adversaries' leads with the highest of a sequence, if you can do it without deceiving your partner; by so doing you make your opponents wonder what has become of the lower honours.

Holding ace, ten, and a small one, your partner leading the nine of the suit, pass it; for if he holds an honour you make two tricks, counting your ace for a certain trick.

With king, queen, or queen and knave, and another play one of the high cards in all cases when you are second hand. With an average remainder of trumps and good cards, having one certain loser, throw it away at your first opportunity; it may enable your partner to make his second best of the suit. When your partner does not trump a winning card you may be quite sure that he means you to play trumps.

Should the queen come from your right in a lead with ace or king, ten or another, pass it; this gives you a ten ace; if your partner have either ace or king, you make three tricks in the suit.

Some players, however, think it best to cover the queen.

It is bad policy to lead up to queen or knave, the contrary with respect to the ace or king; the same may be said with reference to leading through those several cards.

If your partner leads trumps and you have four high trumps, endeavour to make sure of three rounds in that suit; should his lead, however, be a nine, pass it; you will then have the lead after the third round.

When the lead comes from your right hand opponent, play your queen, should you hold ace, queen, and ten.

Independently of Whist being one of the best in-door games that have ever been introduced, it is certainly the finest exercise of memory that, in this form, we could have. Beginners frequently are quite discouraged by their repeated failures, which arise from no other cause than simply the forgetfulness of the player. No one, however, need be disheartened; a knowledge of the game will create in the player such a love for it that he will be anxious to cultivate any deficiency he may have as regards his memory in order that he may become a proficient Whist player, and thus his character as a whole will, no doubt, be benefited by the exercise, because in Whist one great maxim is that no allowances should be made for forgetfulness.

Not beginners only, who have had no confidence in their memory, but many long-established players, have been known, in sorting their cards after the deal, to arrange them in such perfect order that a sharp-sighted adversary with very little difficulty can take a glance at the whole hand.

Even Hoyle, in a plan laid out by him as a kind of aid to the memory, recommends that the trumps should be placed to the left of all the other suits, the best or strongest suit next, and the weakest last on the right hand.

Instead of that, most people find by experience that the best plan is to take up the cards just as they happen to fall, and hold them in the hand without sorting.

A little practice will soon enable the player to select the right card without any previous arrangement.

And now, after giving all these rules and instructions with regard to Whist playing, we must not omit to add a few words as to the spirit in which the game should be played. Voltaire says that "in war we ought to do that which the enemy most dreads." So we should also in Whist, remembering, however, that we are trying to conquer, not our enemies, but our friends; therefore, if we win we have cause for congratulating ourselves, if we lose let us be quite as ready to congratulate our opponents.

There is, perhaps, no game where the temper may be more tried than in Whist. Knowing this, it would perhaps be better for the irritable and peevish in disposition to keep altogether aloof from the game, simply because they would not only be a source of annoyance to others, but they would derive no pleasure themselves from the pursuit.

Patience and forbearance must be exercised. In spite of all that has been said against the practice of card-playing, we none of us can tell how much good has resulted from it. Not only good temper, but many other virtues, may be cultivated at the whist table.

Honour and integrity must be maintained; for though cheating and underhand playing have in some cases for a time been successful, they are methods that never, in the long run, have been adopted with satisfaction.

Idleness is a quality that must be wholly dispensed with. A player needs to be always on the alert; without casting any sly glances at the cards held in the hands of the others, he may, by his own observation and diligence, know exactly the strength or weakness of each player.

"My son," once said a keen, shrewd business man, "don't attempt to play cards unless you have four eyes;" and certainly the player who cannot with his mind's eye see what cards the other players have, as well as those in his own hand, will never be much more than an indifferent player.

No silly trifling conversation should be carried on during the game. To play well, nothing should be allowed to divert the interest from the subject in hand. Indeed, we cannot conclude better than quote what Charles Lamb says in one of his Essays about the famous Mrs. Battle, although, at the same time, we should scarcely advise any of our readers to estimate either Whist or any other game quite so seriously as she did.

MRS. BATTLE'S OPINION ON WHIST.

"A clear fire, a clean hearth, and the rigour of the game." This was
the celebrated wish of old Sarah Battle (now with God), who, next to
her devotions, loved a good game of Whist.

She was none of your lukewarm gamesters, your half-and-half players,
who have no objection to take a hand if you want one to make up a
rubber; who affirm that they have no pleasure in winning; that they
like to win one game and lose another; that they can while away an hour
very agreeably at a card-table, but are indifferent whether they play
or not; and will desire an adversary who has slipped a wrong card to
take it up and play another. These insufferable triflers are the curse
of a table. One of these flies will spoil a whole pot.

Of such, it may be said that they do not play at cards, but only play
at playing at them.

Sarah Battle was none of that breed. She detested them from her heart
and soul, and would not, save upon a striking emergency, willingly seat
herself at the same table with them.

She loved a thorough-paced partner, a determined enemy. She took and
gave no concessions. She hated favours. She never made a revoke nor
ever passed it over in her adversary without exacting the utmost
forfeiture. She fought a good fight, cut and thrust.

She held not her good sword (her cards) like a dancer. She sate bolt
upright, and neither showed you her cards nor desired to see yours.

All people have their blind side, their superstitions; and I have heard
her declare under the rose that hearts were her favourite suit.

I never in my life (and I knew Sarah Battle many of the last years of
it) saw her take out her snuff-box when it was her turn to play, or
snuff a candle in the middle of the game, or ring for a servant till
it was fairly over. She never introduced or connived at miscellaneous
conversation during its process.

As she emphatically observed, _cards were cards_; and if I ever saw
unmingled distaste in her fine last-century countenance, it was at
the airs of a young gentleman of a literary turn who had been with
difficulty persuaded to take a hand, and who, in his excess of candour,
declared that he thought there was no harm in unbending the mind now
and then, after serious studies, in recreations of that kind!

She could not bear to have her noble occupation, to which she wound up
her faculties, considered in that light. It was her business, her duty:
the thing she came into the world to do--and she did it. She unbent her
mind afterwards over a book.

Quadrille, she told me, was her first love, but Whist was the soldier
game--that was her word. It was a long meal; not like quadrille, a
feast of snatches. One or two rubbers might co-extend in duration with
the evening.

A grave simplicity was what she chiefly admired in her favourite game;
there was nothing silly in it, like the nob at cribbage--nothing
superfluous. She even wished that Whist were more simple than it is,
and saw no reason for the deciding of the trump by the turn of the
card. Why not one suit always trumps?

In square games (she meant Whist), all that is possible to be allowed
in card playing is accomplished.

No inducement could ever prevail upon her to play _for nothing_. She
could not conceive _a game_ wanting the spritely infusion of chance,
the handsome excuses of good fortune. Man is a gaming animal, and his
passion can scarcely be more safely expended than upon a game at cards,
with only a few shillings for the stake.

It is needless to say that Sarah Battle's dislike to play Whist for nothing is not by any means generally shared by Whist players. Those who cannot play the game for its own sake and for the interest which they take in it had better not play it at all.

* * * * *

SHORT WHIST.

This is unmistakably nothing more or less than ordinary Whist cut in half; therefore it is almost unnecessary to say much about it, because the principles of the game are just the same as those which have been given at length for the playing of Long Whist.

It is said that it was first introduced at Bath by Lord Peterborough, who, fearing he was about to incur some heavy losses, thought he might sooner be relieved of his suspense if he could contrive to shorten the game. Even now, although it may not be so popular as it once was, it still possesses a great attraction for many players, who are of opinion that the awarding of points for honours (which are not held as the result of play, but simply because they are dealt out to the players holding them) introduces an element of mere accident into the game, which they think does not add either to its interest or to its claims as a scientific amusement. Five points constitute the game in Short Whist, the rubber being reckoned as two points.

Honours are never called, but are always counted, except at the point of four.

The chief advantage of Short Whist lies in the fact that the trumps may be made special instruments of power. Carleton says:--"Trumps should be your rifle company; use them liberally in your manœuvres; have copious reference to them in finessing, to enable you to maintain a long suit."

Should you be weak in trumps, ruff a doubtful card at all times; with a command in them, be very chary of that policy.

Let your great principle always be to keep the control of your adversaries' suit and leave that of your partner free.

If you see the probable good effect of forcing, decide which of your adversaries you will assail, but do not attempt them both at once. Let it be the stronger, if possible.

When you force both hands opposed to you, one throws away his useless cards; while the chance is the other makes trumps that under other circumstances would have been sacrificed.

And the great authority Deschapelles, in speaking of Short Whist, remarks, "When we consider the social feeling it engenders, the pleasure and vivacity it promotes, and the advantages it offers to the less skilful player, we cannot help acknowledging that Short Whist is a decided improvement upon the old game."

DUMBY, OR THREE-HANDED WHIST.

This is exactly the same as Long Whist, excepting that there are three players instead of four, and one of the players undertaking the responsibility of two hands. Dumby's hand is exposed on the table, open to the view of the three players. On the whole, the player having Dumby for partner has somewhat the best of it.

DOUBLE DUMBY, OR TWO-HANDED WHIST.

This is when only two persons play. Two hands may either be exposed on the table, and made use of as if there were four players, or they may be entirely rejected. In the latter case the single hands held by the players must be managed as skilfully as possible. In all these little variations upon the real game of Whist each honour counts as one point.

* * * * *

PIQUET.

At one time Piquet was one of the most fashionable of our card games, though latterly, perhaps owing to its being rather difficult to learn, it has not been quite so popular. It is played by two persons with thirty-two cards, all the twos, threes, fours, fives, and sixes being dispensed with; the remaining cards possessing the same value as at Whist. In each game the number of points is 101.

Before describing the game it will be most advisable to give the meaning of the technical terms employed.

_Talon or Stock._--The eight remaining cards after twelve are dealt to
each person.

_Repique_ is when one of the players counts thirty points in hand
before his adversary has or can count one; when, instead of reckoning
thirty, he reckons ninety, and counts above ninety as many points as he
would above thirty.

_Pique_ is when the _elder hand_ counts thirty in hand and play before
the adversary counts one, in which case, instead of thirty, the hand
reckons for sixty, to which are added as many points as may be reckoned
above thirty.

_Capot._--When either party makes every trick, which counts for forty
points.

_Cards._--The majority of the tricks, reckoned for ten points.

_Carte Blanche._--Not having a pictured card in hand, reckoned for ten
points, and takes precedence of everything else.

_Quatorze._--The four aces, kings, queens, knaves, or tens. Each
quatorze reckons for fourteen points.

_Threes of Aces_, &c., down to tens, reckon for three points.

_Point._--The greatest number of pips on cards of the same suit,
reckoned thus: The ace for eleven, the court cards for ten, nines for
nine, &c., and count for as many points as cards.

_Tierce._--Three successive cards of the same suit, reckoned for three
points. There are six kinds of tierces, viz., ace, king, queen, called
a tierce major, down to nine, eight, seven, a tierce minor.

_Quart._--Four successive cards of the same suit, reckoned for four
points. There are five kinds of quarts: ace, king, queen, knave, called
quart major, down to ten, nine, eight, seven, a quart minor.

_Quint._--Five successive cards of the same suit, reckoned for fifteen
points. There are four kinds of quints: ace, king, queen, knave, ten,
called quint major, down to knave, ten, nine, eight, seven, a quint
minor.

_Sixième._--Six successive cards of the same suit, reckoned for sixteen
points. There are three kinds of sixièmes: ace, king, queen, knave,
ten, nine, a sixième major, down to queen, knave, ten, nine, eight,
seven, a sixième minor.

_Septième._--Seven successive cards of a suit, reckoned for seventeen
points. There are two kinds, viz., from the ace to the eight inclusive,
a septième major, and from the king to the seven inclusive, a septième
minor.

_Huitième._--Eight successive cards of the same suit, reckoned for
eighteen points.

The first thing, however, to be noticed is Have either of the players _carte-blanche_? Should the eldest hand have it, he must tell the dealer to discount for it, and show his cards. Should the younger hand have it, he must wait until the elder has discarded, then show his hand also.

The player who has _carte blanche_ not only counts ten towards the pique, or repique, but prevents his opponent having either.

The dealer has the option of discarding or not as he feels inclined, but should he do so he must take in first any that may be left by the elder hand, and after that his own three which are at the bottom of the stock. The cards that may be left he can look at; but in that case the elder hand may do the same.

It is wiser, therefore, in some instances for the dealer not to look at the cards he leaves, because it will be more to his advantage that the cards should not be seen by his opponent. If the dealer should happen to mix up with his own discard any of the cards left by him, the elder hand can claim to see all, as soon as he has intimated what suit he means to lead. If, however, the elder hand should not lead the suit he named, the dealer can insist upon his leading any suit he pleases.

In the game of Piquet the value of the cards depends to a very great extent upon the various combinations that are made. The learner must, therefore, become thoroughly acquainted with these combinations, otherwise he might make the mistake in discarding of simply throwing out such cards as were of the least numerical value, which really would be a loss to him. There are no trumps in Piquet, therefore each trick is won by the highest card of the suit that is led.

In laying out try to secure a _quatorze_. Should neither player have four aces, _quatorze_ kings annul queens, and, by the same rule, in the adversary's hand queens annul knaves. If you have four aces, you may reckon also any inferior _quatorze_, as of tens, and your opponent cannot reckon four kings, though he should hold them. In the same way, you can count three aces, and inferior threes down to tens, while your opponent cannot count his three kings.

The player who has the greatest number of cards in a suit has the point; but when both players have an equal number of cards in the same or different suits, the point is then won by the player who has the greatest number of pips, counting the ace as eleven and the court cards as ten each. The point being chosen, the eldest hand announces what it is, asking at the same time if it is good; if his adversary has more he replies "it is not good," if he has just as many he answers "it is equal," but if he has not so many he answers "it is good." The player who has the best counts as many for it as he has cards which compose it, and whoever has the point counts it first, be he elder or younger hand, points being equal; or the two players having equal tierces, quints, quarts, &c., neither can count.

The points, tierces, quarts, quints, &c., must be shown on the table, that their value may be reckoned; _quatorzes_, threes of aces, and kings need not be shown.

In reckoning after the _carte-blanche_ comes the point, next the sequences, and then the _quatorzes_, or threes of aces, kings, &c. The cards are then played, each card, excepting a nine or an inferior one, counting one.

The elder hand having played the first card, the dealer before answering the card must count his own game, point, sequence, _quatorze_, or _carte-blanche_, if he has it, and, after reckoning them altogether, he takes the first trick if he can with the same suit; if he cannot do so his opponent has the trick.

When the tricks are equal they do not count. The winner of the last trick counts two.

The three chances in Piquet are the _repique_, _pique_, and _capot_, the whole of which are sometimes made in one deal. The capot is won by the player who wins all tricks adding ten instead of forty to his score.

A _pique_ is gained as follows:--Supposing the elder hand to have a _quint_ to an ace, which being a _quint-major_ is as good as a point, it is therefore good also as a sequence, and counts twenty; suppose also that he should have three aces, which must be good, because he has a _quint-major_, that is, one of each of the cards that constitute a _quatorze_, that makes him twenty-three. In playing the cards, then, his _quint-major_ and the two additional aces must also count one each, making in all thirty, upon which the player, instead of saying in his play "twenty-nine, thirty," says "twenty-nine, sixty."

Now for the _repique_. Supposing the elder hand to have the same point, good as above, and four aces as well, instead of three, he counts in his hand, without playing a card, first, five for his point, fifteen for his _quint-major_, and fourteen for his four aces--that is to say, thirty-four in hand, which is ninety-four in fact, the game in one hand.

* * * * *

EUCHRE.

This is the most popular game in the United States, and can be played by two, three, or four players.

Like Whist, Euchre does not depend upon chance only; great skill is required to play the game well.

It is played with a Piquet pack, that is, a pack of thirty-two cards, all cards below seven, excepting the ace, being taken out. The value of the cards is the same as in Whist, except that the knave of trumps and the other knave of the same colour take precedence over the remainder of the trumps. The knave of trumps is called the right bower, and the knave of the suit of the same colour the left bower.

Supposing spades to be trumps, then the cards rank in the following order:--Knave of spades, knave of clubs, ace, king, queen of spades, &c.

If clubs were trumps then the knave of that suit would be highest card, and knave of spades the next. The knaves rank as in Whist when neither right nor left bowers.

EUCHRE FOR TWO PLAYERS.

The cards are dealt as follows:--First deal two to each, then three to each.

The eleventh card is then turned up, and to whatever suit it belongs that suit is trumps.

Five points constitute the game. If a player win three tricks, they count for one point; if he win four tricks, they also count for one point; but if he win all five tricks, they count two points.

The eleventh card being turned up, the first player begins the game by looking at his hand to ascertain if, in his own estimation, it is sufficiently strong to score--that is, to make three, four, or five tricks. Should he be able to do so, he will say, "I order it up;" that is, that the dealer is to take up the turn-up card in his hand, and put out any card he likes. If, on the contrary, he thinks he cannot score, he says, "I pass."

If the first player orders the turn-up card up, the game begins at once by his playing a card and the dealer following suit. Should the dealer not be able to follow suit, he must either throw away or trump, as in Whist.

The winner of the trick then leads, and so the game goes on until the ten cards are played.

If either the dealer or the other player order the card up and fail to get three or more tricks, he is euchred--that is, his adversary scores two.

Suppose the first player passes, not, in his own estimation, being strong enough to make three tricks, the dealer can, if he likes, take the card and put one of his own out, but if he fails to score he is euchred.

If they both pass, the first player may change the trump, and the dealer is compelled to play. If, however, the former does not score he is euchred.

If he passes for the second time the dealer can alter it, the same penalty being enforced should he not score.

If they both pass for the second time, the round is over, and the first player begins to deal.

If trumps are led, and you only have _left bower_, you must play it, as it is considered a trump.

THREE-HANDED EUCHRE.

Fifteen cards are dealt in this game, but the rules are exactly the same as in two-handed euchre.

There are, however, a few differences in the tactics. If one player has scored four points, and the other two players two each, it is allowable for the two latter to help each other to prevent the player with the four tricks from winning.

FOUR-HANDED EUCHRE.

In this game the players go two and two, being partners, the same as in Whist.

The game is won when the combined tricks taken by a player and his partner amount to five.

If all pass in the first round, the first player is allowed to alter trumps; if he does not care to do so, the second, then the third, and lastly the fourth.

If one should fail to score, having ordered up the card, he and his partner are euchred, and their opponents count two.

Should one player be exceedingly strong, he can say, "I play a lone hand," whereupon his partner throws up his hand, and the _lone hand_ plays against the other two.

If the single player gets all five tricks he counts three, if three or four tricks, he counts only one, and if two, or less, he is euchred.

There is yet another variation to this game, and one that generally meets with approval.

A blank card is taken and on it is written "Joker." This card always counts highest in the pack whatever suit may happen to be trumps.

If "Joker" should be the turn-up card, the dealer has the privilege of naming any suit he likes for trumps.

* * * * *

VINGT-UN.

Of all round card games, there is not one more deservedly popular than the one so well known as Vingt-Un (_i.e._, Twenty-one). Although much of the success attending it depends upon chance, the exercise of no small amount of care and judgment is required by the players, in consequence of which the real interest of the game is greatly intensified.

Six, eight, or, indeed, as many persons as like may join in it. A whole pack of cards is required, and the value attached to them is the same as in Cribbage.

Tens and court cards count as ten each. The ace may either be valued as one or as eleven, to suit the convenience of the holder, and the rest of the cards as usual. The cards are shuffled and cut as in Whist, and to each player a certain number of counters is given. The dealer then gives one card, face downwards, all round, including himself. The players, looking at the cards, each place in front of them a stake, consisting of one or more counters, the amount of each depending entirely upon the choice of the players.

Beginning at the elder hand a second card is then distributed to each. Before proceeding further the dealer may, if so inclined, "challenge the board," receiving or paying from all whose hands are less or more than his own, up to twenty. Should he not feel justified in taking such a step, he puts the question, "Do you stand?" to each player in turn, the winners in the game being the players who simply make twenty-one, neither more nor less. The answers to this question should not be given without due consideration.

The players who feel that they may with safety take one card, or even two or three cards, to enable them to make up the necessary number, receive any number they ask for from the dealer, while those whose number already is so close upon _twenty-one_ that they think it safer to stand, say so.

It sometimes happens that one of the two cards given in the first instance to a player is _an ace_, and the other a _ten_, or a _court card_. This being the case, the owner of them has reason to congratulate himself on his good fortune, because the two cards combined make what is called a _natural_, and unless the dealer also has exactly _twenty-one_, he must pay double stakes to the possessor of the natural, who, by reason of its having fallen to him, becomes the next dealer. When the dealer himself, however, is equally fortunate in having a natural he receives double stakes from all the players and single from the ties. All players having either declined the offer of additional cards, or having received as many as they wish, the dealer turns up his two cards, and either _stands_ with them as they are, or takes what cards he likes from the stock on the table. If he should take too many he pays all the standing players the amount of the stakes they made, and to those who have _naturals_, or cards amounting to twenty-one, whatever they may be, he pays double stakes.

Supposing any player's first and second cards should be alike, he may divide them and place a stake on both, regarding each as a separate hand, and draw cards accordingly, to make _two_ twenty-ones instead of one.

At the beginning of a game a player is at liberty to sell his deal if he should please to do so.

When it happens that the dealer on taking his second card supplies himself with a natural, the round is considered at an end, and he is entitled at once to double stakes from all the players, before supplying them with any additional cards.

On looking at the second card dealt, a player should announce the fact directly when he has a natural, and be paid for it at once, before the dealer has taken his own second card.

Sometimes a dealer takes advantage of his right to insist upon all the players doubling their stakes, and especially does he assert his claim to take this step when his first card is an ace or a tenth card, or when he considers the stakes offered are not as high as they should be. Another privilege belonging to the dealer is what is termed the brulet, which consists of the top and bottom cards of the pack, after it has been cut and shuffled. Before beginning to deal, the dealer may take these two cards, and should they united constitute a natural, every player must pay him double stakes. The cards are then recut and the proper deal is made. On the other hand, he is not compelled to stand by the brulet; when he has supplied every one with the cards they require, he may add as many as he chooses to his own pair.

* * * * *

SPECULATION.

In playing the famous game of Speculation a full pack of fifty-two cards is used, the value of each card being the same as at Whist.

Either counters or halfpennies may serve for stakes, an equal number of which must be allotted to all, the pool being provided by contributions from each player. After cutting for deal the owner of the lowest card deals out three cards to each player, one at a time, face downwards, and no one must on any account look at what has been given him.

The top card of the remaining pack is then to be the trump, and this card the dealer may either keep himself or sell to the highest bidder, making it thus an object of speculation.

The player on the left of the possessor of the winning card then turns up his top card, and if it happen not to be a trump the next player turns up, and so on, until a higher trump than the first make its appearance, when the new comer takes the place of its predecessor, and, if not retained by its owner, is awarded to the highest bidder. If the card be not a trump, but only an ordinary one, it may be beaten by the highest card that makes its appearance of the same suit or by a trump.

At the close of every round the pool is won by the player who holds the highest card of the trump suit. Should the ace of trumps be turned up, the hand is, of course, at an end, the owner of it being the winner.

The game is well named, for the buying and selling business is frequently carried on to a very considerable extent. Sometimes the players will sell their whole hand to each other, or perhaps a single card on the chance of their proving winners.

Although the above method is the most common way of playing, slight variations are frequently made. For instance, an extra hand is dealt by many players and placed in the middle of the table for pool; at the end of the round this hand is examined, and if a better card is found in it than that belonging to the winner, the pool is left undisturbed, and added to the next new pool, making it, of course, double in value. Another variation is, that any player who may turn up a knave or a five of any suit excepting trumps shall pay one counter to the pool.

In order to play well at Speculation great judgment must be used, and also the memory must be in full exercise, but when once thoroughly understood and appreciated there is no game superior to it for a Christmas gathering, and almost any number of players may join in it.

* * * * *

NAPOLEON.

This game, though comparatively new, is exceedingly interesting, and one that hitherto has always proved to be very popular as a lively and stirring round game.

Like Speculation, it is played with a full pack of fifty-two cards, and as the shuffling of them is of great importance, it is advisable to be supplied with two packs, as at Whist.

The pool is started by contributions from each player, the dealer giving double value. Five cards are then distributed to each player and held in the hand; as at Whist, it being necessary for the owner of them to ascertain whether they are good or otherwise.

The player to the left of the dealer then declares how many tricks he will guarantee to take, or whether he would prefer to be passed once, owing to the weakness of his hand.

He may promise to take one, two, three, or four tricks; but unless he should declare _Nap_, which means that he is able to take all five tricks, the next player is questioned, and so on, until Nap has ultimately been proclaimed by some one. Should no player declare _Nap_, the one declaring to take the highest number of tricks leads off.

The stand player, as he is called, then plays against every one else; he leads the game, and his first card decides what suit shall be trumps. All the other players try to prevent him from making the tricks which he declared to take, because, if he should fail, the payments will have to be made from him to them. Should he succeed, however, they pay him; and in the event of his making _Nap_, he receives double stakes from every one of the company.

A player revoking is Napoleoned, which means that he must pay five tricks to the stand hand, and the cards are played over again.

* * * * *

CRIBBAGE.

This game is played with an ordinary Whist pack, and it is won by the player who first scores sixty-one points. These points are marked on what is called a cribbage-board. The board may be placed either across or lengthways between the players.

A player must begin to score from the end where his sixty-first point is, and begin at the outside edge. Two pegs are given to each player to score with, and he uses them as follows:--

Supposing his first score to be four, he places a peg in the fourth hole; then if his next score be three, he marks it off from the position of the first peg, and sticks the second peg in the third hole farther on.

If his next score be eight, say, he counts from the second peg eight holes, and there sticks the peg, and so on. By this method confusion is avoided, and the players are able to check one another's scores. Generally, the pegs of the different players vary in colour, but this is not necessary, though one player must never touch his opponent's half of the board.

The court cards and tens rank equally, and the other cards according to their number of pips. Aces are counted lowest.

_The Game._

The cards having been shuffled, the non-dealer cuts, but does not place the undermost half on the uppermost, as in Whist, but leaves the pack divided into two parts on the table. From the undermost part the dealer then deals five cards each, beginning with his adversary. The remaining cards are placed on the other heap, and the pack remains undisturbed until the crib cards are put out. In the first hand of a new game, the non-dealer counts three at starting, as a sort of set-off against the possession of crib by the dealer.

Both players then look at their hands and throw out two cards, the dealer throwing out first, and the cards being face downwards.

The non-dealer then again cuts the cards, but the number cut must be more than two, after which the dealer takes the top card of the heap left on the table, the non-dealer replaces the cards he cut, and the dealer puts the top card, which is thrown face upwards on the whole.

The two cards thrown out by each player and the turn-up card form the crib, which belongs to the dealer. If a knave be the turn-up, the dealer counts "two for his heels." The turn-up card is reckoned in making up the score of either player, as well as of the crib. The non-dealer then begins by playing a card, the value of which he calls out.

Suppose the dealer to have in his hand a queen, knave, and five, and the non-dealer a seven, eight, and queen, and that the turn-up is four; then the non-dealer plays his queen, and cries "ten;" the dealer plays his queen, and cries "twenty," scoring two for a pair, because a court card counts ten.

The first player then puts down his knave and cries "thirty." As his is the nearest attained to thirty-one, and the dealer has no ace, he cries "Go," and the first player scores one hole.

Each player's hand is then counted up, the elder one scoring four--two for each fifteen; and the dealer two for his fifteen, made up by a seven and eight.

If the knave in either hand be the same suit as the turn-up, the holder of the card scores "one for his nob." The crib is added up by the dealer, and the game goes on.

If in trying to get near thirty-one in the beginning a player can make fifteen, he counts two. If a player gets exactly thirty-one he counts two.

The hands are counted up as follows:--

For knave turned up (heels) 2 points.
For sequence of three or four cards 3 or 4 "
For a flush, that is, three cards of same suit 3 "

For a full flush, when cards in hand and turn-up are of same
suit 4 points.
For every fifteen, as 6 and 9; 10, 3, and 2; 7 and 8, court
card and 5, &c. 2 "
For a pair (two of a sort, as 2 threes, 2 fours, &c.) 2 "
For a pair royal (three of same sort) 6 "
For a double pair royal, or four of same sort 12 "
For knave of trumps in hand (nob) 1 "

If a player has in his hand, say, six, seven, and eight, and the turn-up is eight, he will count that two separate sequences, and score three for each.

The non-dealer always counts up first. This counting up is called the "show," and the first show is very important at the end of the game, as a player may just get sixty-one points and win. The dealer may also have sixty-one, but as his show has not been the first it does not count.

Should the dealer misdeal, and not discover the mistake before either of the hands is taken up, his opponent counts two, and a fresh deal must be made. If, during the deal the non-dealer expose any one of his cards to view, the dealer has the option of dealing again, without, however, looking at his own cards. If the dealer deal more than five cards, his adversary counts two, and a new deal takes place, the same penalty being enforced if he give less than five cards.

THREE-HANDED CRIBBAGE.

The theory of Three-handed Cribbage is the same as that in Cribbage, which we have already described. It is played, as its name indicates, by three people instead of by two. The board must be triangular in shape, containing three sets of holes of sixty each and the additional game hole. Each player has to fight for himself alone, and has, therefore, two antagonists to combat with instead of one, as in the ordinary game.

Five cards are dealt to each player, after which an extra card is laid down to form the commencement of the crib. To this card each player adds one of his own, the result being that the sixteen cards are equally divided among the three players and the crib. The player who first succeeds in reaching the sixty-first hole is the winner of the game, and is entitled to double the stakes which are apportioned to him by his two less fortunate companions.

FOUR-HANDED CRIBBAGE.

In this variety of the game four persons play in partnerships of two each, as at Whist. Sixty-one constitute the game, still it is very usual to go twice round the board, the number of game in that case being 121.

Before beginning to play two of the four players are chosen to have the management of the score, and between them the board is placed, because upon them only devolves the duty of moving the pegs. The other two players may not even assist in counting.

After cutting and dealing five cards to each player, the dealer places the remainder of the pack on his left hand. One card is then given by each person to form the crib, which, when complete, belongs to the dealer.

In contributing to the crib, the choice of the card given depends upon whether the crib belongs to the player and his partner or to their opponents. Fives are the best cards to give to one's own crib, therefore they should never be given to the antagonists. Aces and kings should be avoided; low cards are the best for the purpose.

The play then begins until all the sixteen cards are played out. Fifteens, sequences, pairs, &c., are reckoned in the usual way. Should either player be unable to come in under thirty-one, he declares it to be a "go," and the play belongs to his left-hand neighbour. No small cards must be kept up which would come in under a penalty.

Great care is required in playing this game of Four-handed Cribbage, as the learner will soon discover.

In leading, threes and fours are the best cards to select. Five is a bad lead, as also are ones and nines. The second player must be careful as to pairing, also he must try to avoid playing too closely on: though in some cases by doing so the adversary is tempted to form the sequence. He will learn in time to discriminate when it is wise to play on. If he can make fifteen it is generally better play than pairing the card led.

The object of the third player should be to make the number below twenty-one, in order to help his partner to gain the end hole for the "go" or the two for thirty-one.

The fourth man who in the first round is the last player will do wisely to hold aces or low cards for the purpose, especially when it is necessary to score a few holes in play, or when the only chance of securing game is to play out.

The hand being played out the different amounts are pegged, crib included, the one who led off scoring first.

As a rule the amount of points from each hand is seven, and four or five from the crib.

* * * * *

RANTER GO ROUND.

No game that we can mention surpasses the popular one of Ranter Go Round for real interest and excitement. It is said to have been first played in Cornwall, but to us it signifies very little whether it originated at Land's End or at John o' Groat's; the matter of the greatest interest is that it is a first-rate game for a winter evening. First of all, each player is provided with three counters, or lives, as they are called, and the object of the game consists in trying to see which player will succeed in keeping his lives the longest.

An ordinary pack of fifty-two cards is then shuffled, and dealt out one by one to each player.

The players look at their cards, and the one on the left of the dealer, if he thinks his card is too low, has the option of changing with his left-hand neighbour, who again may change with his left-hand neighbour, and so on till the dealer gets the low card, and as he has no one with whom he can exchange he is allowed to take for it the top card of the pack. The players then turn their cards face upwards on the table, and the possessor of the lowest card, aces being counted lowest, has to forfeit one of his lives.

The game thus goes on until all the players are out but one, who is declared the winner.

If a player's card be demanded by his right-hand neighbour, whose card is higher than the one he gave in exchange, he _stands_, or, in other words, refuses to change with his left-hand neighbour, knowing that he is safe for that round, because at any rate one card lower than his own is out. If two players have cards of the same value, and these cards are lowest, the player who turned his up last has to lose a life.

Players begin turning up their cards from the one on the left of the dealer No player may exchange more than once.

Sometimes a rule is enforced that when a player demands to exchange with his left-hand neighbour, and gets a card with _one_, _two_, or _three_ pips given him for his own, the player with whom he exchanged, if he has got a higher card for his one, two, or three, cries out the value of the card he exchanged, so that the other players may know its worth.

The rule is not one that has ever become very popular, because it tends very much to deteriorate from the uncertainty of the game, a feature in all card-playing that possesses a greater charm than perhaps any other. The vicissitudes of fortune in Ranter Go Round are wonderful.

For instance, a player may have kept his three lives till all but one are out, and then lose them in three successive rounds, while a player who has only had one life for a long time will win the game.

As each life is lost a counter of the player belonging to it is placed in the pool, and as the lives decrease in number they increase in value.

* * * * *

ÉCARTÉ.

The game of Écarté is a real French game; it originated first in Paris, and at one time was one of the most fashionable games in that city.

It has been devoted so extensively by some players to gambling purposes, that its reputation has unmistakably suffered thereby, and any one professing to have a preference for Écarté was, at one time, suspected immediately of not being a very desirable associate.

It would have been a matter of regret if, because of any unfortunate association connected with the game, we should have been deprived of the benefit of it, for it is second to none in its power of affording amusement. It is easy to learn, and yet it is a scientific, clever game, and one that we can well imagine would be selected as a favourite among all other card games by proficient card-players.

It is played by two persons with a pack of thirty-two cards, all the twos, threes, fours, fives, and sixes being thrown out in preparing the pack.

The technical terms used are supplied both in English and French, and considering the game to be so essentially French in its nature we subjoin the latter list.

_Abattre._--To lower the cards and show them.
_Atout._--Trump.
_Avoir le main._--The act of dealing.
_Battre._--To shuffle the cards before dealing.
_Carte Doublée._ }
_Carte Gardée._ } Two cards of the same suit.
_Couper._--To cut.
_Defaulter._--To refuse a suit.
_Donner._--To deal.
_Écart._--The cards thrown aside.
_Être à la devine._--To be embarrassed which suit to keep.
_Faire._--To deal.
_Faire un main._--To make a trick.
_Forcer._--To play a superior card on an inferior.
_La Belle._--The highest card of any suit.
_La Vole._--To make all the tricks.
_Le Point._--One score of the five which compose the game.
_Levée._--One trick made whilst playing.
_Je propose._--Asking fresh hands, or part of fresh hands.
_Refaire._--To recommence distributing the cards.
_Renoncer._--Not to answer the suited.
_Retourner._--When the cards are dealt, to turn up the first of the
talon.
_Sous-forcer._--To play a card inferior to what remains of some suit in
hand.
_Talon._--What remains of the pack after there has been distributed to
each player what he requires.

The game consists of five points, unless differently arranged.

The king instead of the ace is the highest card.

After the king follow the queen and knave, next comes the ace, then ten, nine, eight, and seven.

After the dealer has shuffled the cards his opponent cuts them. The latter also can claim to shuffle if so inclined, but should he do so the dealer may re-shuffle. The dealer then gives three cards to his opponent and takes three himself, after which he gives two to his opponent and takes two himself, turning up the eleventh, which is also the trump, card on the pack.

Sometimes the two cards are dealt first, and afterwards the three; but this is a trifling matter, to be decided by the wish of the dealer.

Should the turn-up, or trump, happen to be a king of any suit, the dealer makes one point to himself and cries "I mark king."

The point is lost, however, unless the king be declared at once, before the first trick has been played. Still there is one case in which it would be bad policy to declare the king, even though you hold it. Supposing that you mark three, and that your adversary does not allow you to discard, or that, being himself the elder hand, he should play without proposing; in either case, if he does not make the point, he loses two, which gives you the game, a result you will have a greater chance of obtaining by masking your hand; in other words, by not announcing that you hold the king. The markers used are generally a two and a three from the discarded suits.