Chapter V: Part 5

The pins may be set up in any manner agreeable to the players, either in a line, circle, or in the same way as in the game of skittles, in the form shown in the diagram. The number of pins knocked down counts towards game, and the player who can knock all down in the fewest throws or swings of the ball wins.

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Plan of Nine Pins.]

NOUGHTS AND CROSSES.

_See_ "Slate Games."

OBEDIENT SOLDIER.

A toy similar in principle to the Demon Bottle, previously described, is the toy known as the Obedient Soldier. He should be made of pith, cork, or some very light wood, should be carved with a soldier's busby and tunic, and have in his arms a rifle at the "shoulder arms" position. The barrel of the rifle must be made hollow, in order that in it may be placed, when desired, a piece of solid steel wire. The whole figure is to be fastened at the feet on to the flat side of the half of a leaden bullet. Upon the steel wire being inserted in the barrel of the rifle, the soldier will lie down, and upon its being removed he will stand upright. The secret of these actions should rest with the performer who shows off the ways of the Obedient Soldier, and it will be necessary, in order to preserve this secrecy, that some dexterity be exhibited in the placing or removing of the steel wire.

PALADA.

The game of Palada is a game very much resembling that of Cup and Ball, and has become quite a popular amusement. The toy consists of a slim and tapering rod, the thick end of which is used as the handle, and at the opposite end is a piece of cane bent into an oval form. Attached to the rod, and at about a foot or a foot and a half from the oval end, a solid egg-shaped substance is fastened by a piece of string half as long again as the distance from the oval end towards which it is secured. The object of the game is to catch the egg-shaped substance on the oval end of the rod, which is made large enough to allow of the egg finding a secure resting-place, but at the same time smaller than the egg, so that it may not fall through.

PAPER TOYS.

A very considerable number of toys may be constructed out of paper alone, and much amusement may be obtained in the making of such toys, as well as from the uses to which they can be put when made. The Magic Fan and kindred objects have been explained under that heading, and the following are a few other objects that, with a little practice, it will be found very easy for any one to make at pleasure.

_Paper Bellows._--The first in the alphabetical list of paper toys is that known as paper bellows, and a very good imitation of a pair of bellows it will be found to be.

Get a piece of paper of the substance of an ordinary sheet of note-paper, cut it into a square each side of which is at least twelve inches long, and fold it double, by making two of the corners meet with the middle line stretching between the other two corners. Open the paper out and fold it again, by making the other two corners meet, and upon it being again opened out, the folds will be left in the shape of a St. Andrew's Cross. Turn the paper over, and holding two of the folds between the finger and thumb of each hand, press them inward, and press the paper quite flat, so as to make it take the form shown in Fig. 1. Make the corners _a_ and _b_ meet at _e_; turn the paper over, and make the corners _c_ and _d_ also meet at the same point _e_. Turn the first side uppermost again, and the paper will show as in Fig. 2. Make creases in the paper, by folding _a_ to _b_, _a_ to _c_, _d_ to _b_, and _d_ to _c_; the creases should then show as indicated by the dotted lines in the figure, the paper being folded out immediately after each inward fold. Next pinch together between the finger and thumb those parts indicated by the letters _a, x, z_ and _d, w, y_; pinch first the one, and then the other, and the paper will fall naturally into the form given by the folds, and will appear like Fig. 3; the dotted lines outside the figure representing the reverse side of the paper, the letters _a, b, c_ forming the handle of one side of the bellows. Afterwards turn the paper over, and do with the other side as last described, by first folding the paper and then pinching it into shape; the handle of the other side of the bellows will so be formed, and the toy is complete, as represented by Fig. 4. The bellows are blown by alternately pulling out the paper by the handles and closing it again quickly, when wind will be found coming out of the bellows at the point marked _A_.

_Paper Boat._--For this toy the size of the paper should be nine inches by six, or with sides of proportionate length. Double the paper as in Fig. 1; turn up the corners _a a_, until they meet at _b_, when paper will look as in Fig. 2; turn down the two sides _c_, one to the one side, and the other to the other side, to the dotted line _d d_. Insert the thumb of each hand, and pull out the paper so that it may take the form of Fig. 3; being careful in so doing to arrange neatly the corners _d d_ of Fig. 2. Turn up the points marked _e_ in Fig. 3, one to the one side, and the other to the other, till they touch the point _f_, folding at the dotted line of the figure. Insert the thumbs again, and pull out the paper to make the form shown in Fig. 4. Lastly, take hold of the paper with the finger and thumb of each hand at the points _g g_, and pull them gently outwards right and left, being careful not to press the inside, and the boat will be complete as in Fig. 5.

_Paper Boxes._--Cut a piece of paper into a square of dimensions according to taste, or according to the size of the box required. As a first attempt a piece of paper about six or eight inches square will be found to be most convenient. Make folds in the paper according to the dotted lines shown in Fig. 1, remembering that in making paper boxes the paper is never to remain folded, except in the last figure, and that the folds are merely to be looked upon as marks for future guidance. Then fold the corners A B C D into the centre, and the folds will show as in Fig. 2. Next fold over and unfold alternately, A to H, B to F, C to I, and D to G, after which the folds should appear as in Fig. 3. Then in the same way fold and unfold A to N, B to M, C to L, and D to K, when the dotted lines in Fig. 4 should each be represented by a fold in the paper. Take a pencil or pen and mark the paper in accordance with the black lines of Fig. 4, and cut with a pen-knife at all those marks, removing such pieces as will necessarily become detached. Fold and _keep folded_ the short sides _x_ and _y_ of the corners A and D, so that they may pass easily through the slits in the opposite corners B and C. Lastly, and to finish the box, pass the folded corner A through the slit in the corner C, then opening out the folds in order to make the fastening secure; pass the folded corner D through the slit in the corner B in the same way, and at the same time fold in the side that would otherwise overlap.

_Paper Chinese Junk._--This paper toy is one of the most complicated and difficult of all the paper toys to make; it requires for its explanation several diagrams, and in the making of it much patience. It takes as long to get into proper shape as it does to form many of the different varieties described under the heading of Magic Fan, and unless great care has been taken throughout, there is great chance of the junk turning out but a poor affair after all. In spite of, nay in consequence of, the difficulties, however, it is worth attempting. Take a piece of paper about a foot square, and find its centre by cross folding it corner to corner; fold the four corners into the centre as in Fig. 1, and fold the sides A B and C D to the dotted line E F, so that Fig. 2 will appear. Keep the side of Fig. 2, represented in the diagram, outwards, and double the paper longways to form Fig. 3. Fold both the sides at A B of that figure to the points C D, and the small Fig. 4 will result. Open out again to make Fig. 2, and just under the middle of the outer flaps will be found the four corners of the paper; take two of those corners, one between the finger and thumb of each hand, and pull them out to make the elongated Fig. 5. Double the paper of that figure by the fold A B, so that the two points C D may touch each other back to back. The paper now appears as Fig. 6, and it is from here that great care and patience to complete the toy successfully will have to be shown. Take between the forefinger and thumb of each hand the two sides A B, and by pressing them outwards contrive so as to bring the line A C to be parallel with the line C D, and the line B C to the line C E. Into this position the paper must be folded flat, when it will be found to be in the form shown in Fig. 7. Fold the points A B C so that they will all meet evenly at the point D, and then fold the paper so that the line E F will be parallel to and upon G H. Turn the paper over, and treat the reverse side in exactly the same manner. Upon the exactness with which these Figs. 6 and 7 are dealt with depends the success of the endeavour, and if properly done the folding, when completed, should leave the paper as shown in the accompanying Fig. 8.

Insert the fingers then between the folds in that part, which will readily be found, where the paper may be easily pulled outwards right to left, when it will take a box form with overhanging flaps, as shown in Fig. 9. Place the two thumbs boldly on the tops of the two sides marked A and B, and press them firmly down to the table, making the folds inwards, as shown in the dotted line C D. Fig. 10 appears upon the box (Fig. 9) being then turned upside down; fold the line A B so as to produce the fold W X, and press the paper firmly down; fold the line C D to produce the fold Y Z, and again press firmly down. Turn the paper, and it should be fairly represented by Fig. 11. Double the paper outwards by the dotted line, and it will appear like Fig. 12. The test of accuracy in performance now appears. Take the points A and B of Fig. 12 between the forefinger and thumb of each hand, and pull carefully, slowly, and steadily outwards, forcing nothing; if thoroughly made the junk will come quite readily, and will appear bottom uppermost. Turn it over, and raise up the pieces of paper which will be found inside at either end of the boat to do duty as backs to the seats, and all is finished, and should appear as shown in Fig. 13.

In endeavouring to make this toy, keep well in mind that old, old couplet, that the elders are so fond of quoting to the youngsters for their encouragement and edification--

"If at first you don't succeed, Try, try, try again."

_Paper Dart._--The Paper Dart is one of the easiest made of the paper toys, and when made will last some time, if put only to its legitimate use. It is best made of a piece of good stout paper, which should be cut so that it is at least half as long again as it is broad. Double the paper lengthways, and make the fold _x z_, as shown in the accompanying figure, opening out the paper again; then turn up the two corners to meet at the points _a a_, and next turn the points _b b_ to the point _c_ in the same figure, when the paper should appear as indicated by the dotted lines in the figure. Again fold the paper, and retain it folded at the line _x z_; fold down the outside edges so that they are parallel with that fold, and open out the wings so made, and the dart is complete. To throw it, hold the paper on the line _x z_ between the thumb and forefinger, take the necessary aim, and cast the dart; its motion through the air will be found to be accompanied with a graceful curve, and to make an accurate aim allowance must be made for the curve. Boys sometimes amuse themselves by fighting sham battles with toys of this description.

_Paper Hat (Pyramidal)._--The Pyramidal Paper Hat is to be made, so far as its initial stages are concerned, in just the same way as the manufacture of the Paper Boat is proceeded with, and which is fully described in its proper place. The size of the paper out of which the hat is to be made must be decided by the size of the hat required. To make it, proceed as in the manufacture of the Paper Boat, and when the paper is in the form represented by the dotted line in Fig. 2, illustrating that toy, stop short, and turn in the corners of the paper corresponding with the dotted line in the figure, and the Paper Hat will be finished.

_Paper Parachute._--To make a toy paper parachute, take a square piece of tissue or other light paper, and fold it from corner to corner into a triangular shape; fold it again from corner to corner, and again a third time fold it in the same way, and then double it so as to give it the appearance shown by Fig. 1 in the accompanying diagram. Cut with a sharp penknife through all the folds of the paper, shown by the dotted lines, and pierce a hole at the point marked A quite through; then, when the paper is opened out, it will be found to be as shown in Fig. 2. Fasten threads, all of which are to be of the same length, through each hole; bring the loose ends of the thread to a point, fasten them there together, and attach to them a piece of cardboard or folded paper as ballast. The whole toy will then be complete, as shown in Fig. 3. If the parachute be then taken into the open air, and when a good breeze is blowing, the air will soon catch under the toy and carry it up to a considerable height. In the absence, however, of a wind, it requires some dexterity to set the parachute off successfully, and it may be much aided by the use of an arrow and a common bow. A small hole is cut in the top of the paper, in which the point of an arrow is inserted and fixed to the end by a little paste or gum. The ends of the thread should then be tied at about half-way down the shaft of the arrow, and, when complete, it will have very much the appearance of a closed parasol (_see_ Fig. 4). If the arrow is then placed on the string of the bow and shot into the air, the parachute will on coming down open out and sail away gracefully, and more or less swiftly according to the current of air into which it may be propelled from the bow.

_Paper Purses._--Paper Purses are somewhat complicated in their manufacture, and when made are not the most serviceable of receptacles for money. As an exercise of ingenuity and care in the making they are worth attempting. Cut a piece of paper, tolerably soft and pliable, into a square, fold it into three equal parts, and when so folded again fold three times (Fig. 1); the paper now should again take the square shape, but much reduced in size. Take the paper when so folded between the forefinger and thumb of each hand, and pinch it into the star-like form shown in Fig. 3. Then open out the paper as at the beginning, being careful not to press it flat, but to retain clearly the marks of all the folds, which should be impressed as shown in Fig. 2. Catch the opposite corners at the points _a_ and _b_ and _c_ and _d_ respectively between the fingers and thumb of each hand, and by gently twisting and screwing the paper, humour it so that the folds will arrange themselves and leave the paper as shown in Fig. 4. Turning now to Fig. 4, fold the point _a_ to the point _b_, _c_ to _d_, and _e_ to _f_, which should then leave the paper as shown in the Fig. 5. Insert the point _g_ of that figure into an opening that will be found between the points _h_ and _i_, and the purse, properly closed, is complete.

The chief of the paper toys made by merely folding the paper have now been described; there are doubtless many other simple ones that need no description, and it has not been considered advisable to enter into the details as to the many simple toys that may be cut out of stiff paper or cardboard. Light-fingeredness, guided by a very small quantity of ingenuity and inventive powers, will suggest the uses to which cardboard may be put as an in-door amusement in the manufacture of sundry toys and other miniature articles. A very nice suite of doll's furniture may be readily cut out of pieces of stiff cardboard.

PARLOUR BOWLS.

This is an interesting game, adapted for any number of persons, and in principle is very similar to the game of Bowls, as described at large among the Lawn Games. The balls are, of course, very different in size to those used out of doors, and are made and adapted for in-door play. Each player is provided with two balls of the same colour, which he bowls towards a jack or die, the jack being placed at the side of the room opposite to that from which the players are stationed. The players decide the order in which they play, and then each one alternately bowls one of the balls towards the jack, and he who succeeds in placing his bowl nearest to the jack wins the game. When the players are more than three they may be divided into opposing sides, and it is then legitimate to play so as to knock an opponent's bowl away from, or a partner's bowl near to, the jack; scores should then be calculated after each round, according to the various distances that the bowls are from the jack. The game described in this book as German Balls is sometimes also known as Parlour Bowls.

PARLOUR CROQUET.

There are three versions of the lawn game of Croquet that are played in-doors, and are known as Carpet Croquet, Parlour Croquet, and Table Croquet respectively. These are all recently introduced games, and are deservedly popular. The mallets, balls, and arches are made of different sizes and shapes according to the game; they are all more or less similar to those used in the out-door game, and may be obtained, with the necessary rules, which are only adaptations of the rules of the out-door game, of the toy-dealers. Each version of the game may be played by eight or any less number of players. The peculiarity of _Carpet Croquet_ is, as its name implies, that it is played on the carpet, and the hoops used are fitted into flat metal stands, so that the balls roll over the stand without hindrance. _Parlour Croquet_ is played on a mahogany board lined with cloth, and which is made level by means of adjusting-screws fitted underneath. _Table Croquet_ is played on an ordinary dining-table, and with the other materials for playing the game are supplied cloth cushions to place round the edge of the table to prevent the balls from rolling off.

PARLOUR QUOITS.

An in-door game played with rings very similar to those used in the lawn game of Quoits is known variously as Parlour Quoits, Annulette, and Ringolette. The game bears but slight resemblance to the out-door game of Quoits, but is more nearly allied to that of Skip or Ring the Nail, which will be found among the Minor Out-door Games.

The game is one of skill, and is adapted for any number of players; it is played on a round board, or sometimes on an inclined plane. On the board nine pins, pegs, standards, or skittles of various colours, or differently numbered, are fixed, and the game consists in the players endeavouring to throw each of nine rings--coloured or numbered, as the case may be, to correspond with the pegs--on to its appropriate peg, each player counting towards game the number of the rings successfully thrown upon the proper pegs. Penalties are incurred by lodging a ring on any peg other than that to which it is proper. Each player alternately should throw all the nine rings.

PATCHESI, OR HOMEWARD BOUND.

This is one of the many varieties of the Race Game, described more in detail under that heading further on; the game of Homeward Bound differing in that it should be played by four persons instead of an indefinite number, as in the ordinary race game.

Each player is provided with dice and dice-box, or, if it be preferred, the game may be played with a common numbered teetotum. The board on which the game is played is arranged as shown in the accompanying diagram, and three pieces or men are allotted to each player, who--according to the throws of the dice, and subject to such laws as have been laid down, or as may be laid down, by the players--has to move these men first along the two outer rows of squares up towards home, returning the reverse way, and ultimately up the centre row to home. Whoever first reaches home wins the game.

PEGASUS IN FLIGHT.

This is one of the few balancing toys which may be readily made, and which will afford much amusement to all, and wonder to those who have not taken the pains to understand the principle on which it is constructed. It furnishes a solution of a popular mechanical problem or paradox, viz., "_how to prevent a body, having a tendency to fall by its own weight, from falling, by adding to its weight on the same side on which its tendency is to fall_."

The Pegasus in Flight when complete is fairly represented in the accompanying illustration. It should be made out of a small toy figure of a horse in which the centre of gravity is found in, or very near to, the middle of the body. The wings, which are merely added for the sake of adornment, and to make the toy resemble in appearance the fabled charger after which it is named, should be attached to the figure at a point just behind the shoulders; the wings should be of equal weight and so adjusted as to keep the balance of the figure true. They may, however, if desired, be entirely dispensed with, or any other addition, according to fancy, may be put upon the horse's back. A wire bent to a curve, and to the end of which a small leaden ball has first to be attached, is to be fastened to the middle of the under part of the horse. Upon the hind feet of the horse being then set at rest on the edge of a table, and in such a position that the leaden ball is beneath the edge of the table, the animal may be made to rock to and fro without any fear of its being upset, and the longer the wire, provided only the proper curve is given to it, the longer will be the distance that the toy will sway upwards and downwards. This toy is also sometimes known by the name of the Mechanical Bucephalus, but it should then be made minus the wings, as is also the case when it is simply exhibited under the still more common description of the Prancing Horse.

PITH DANCER.

The Pith Dancer is a very pleasing dancing toy, and possesses the great merit of being easily made. It is a little figure made of cork, pith, or some other equally light material. At one end of the substance cut out a head and bust, and at the other end stick in four hog's bristles of equal length, so that the figure will stand erect thereon. To make the figure effective in appearance, paint the face, put a little cap on the head, add a pair of arms, and dress it in a cloak which may be made of some light stuff like tissue paper. When the figure is completely made and equipped, stand it on the bristles upon the sounding board of a piano, and play some brisk and lively tune. The vibration of the piano will then make the figure dance with much spirit, vivacity, and originality.

PRANCING HORSE.

_See_ "Pegasus in Flight."

PROPHET.

The Prophet, or Sybil, as it is sometimes called, is a toy affording much amusement and diversion for the youngsters during the winter evenings. By its aid fortunes may be told and predictions as to circumstances of the future made with great confidence, for if the predictions should happen by any chance not to come true, the whole responsibility can be readily cast upon the Prophet. The toy is easily made, and by varying the table of prognostications the Prophet's opinion on an almost endless variety of topics may be taken.

To make the toy, cut a piece of pasteboard, a few inches in diameter, into a circle, and ornament the edges with some pieces of fancy paper. Then mark on the white surface of the pasteboard twenty equal divisions, by means of lines radiating from the centre, and within each division place a number ranging in order from one to twenty. The figure of the Prophet should be made so that he has a venerable and sedate appearance, should be clothed in a robe reaching to his feet, and he should hold in one hand a small rod for a wand, which is to be made pointing downwards. The figure may perhaps be purchased, but it is better that it should be made, as it may then be more readily adapted to the taste or fancy, and it can be easily cut out of wood, cork, cardboard, or some other material. It will add much to the general appearance if the Prophet be supplied with a loose white beard.

When the card and figure are finished, the card is to be mounted upon a small wooden stand, through the centre of which a steel wire is placed, and the figure of the Prophet is to be fixed on the wire in such a manner that it may revolve freely.

The next thing to be done is to draw up a table of prognostications, which must equal in number the spaces marked upon the cardboard disc. This may be done in many ways. Sometimes the company present may be requested each to supply a set, or to supply alternately one of a set; or it is better, perhaps, that he who is about to show off the oracle should previously have supplied himself with several sets, one of which, of course, must only be used at a time. The sets should be so arranged that each one is complete in itself, and the various prognostications in a set should bear some sort of relation one to the other.

When all is ready, the performer should desire some one of the company to have his or her fortune told. The prognostications to be used are then to be handed to some other person, and the figure of the Prophet is to be set spinning, and according to the number of the division at which the wand of the Prophet points when it comes to a standstill, so, according to the prognostication bearing the corresponding number, may the fortune of the inquirer be expected to be.

The following prognostications may either be used, or may serve as models upon which tables can be drawn up:--

1.--At the end of a changeful life, wealth.
2.--Early and prosperous marriage.
3.--Great success at school.
4.--A speedy and important journey.
5.--Will spend much time from home.
6.--Hours of pleasure, followed by years of care.
7.--May expect to be thwarted.
8.--Will have invitations to numerous parties.
9.--All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy.
10.--Travels by land, and voyages by sea.
11.--Many changes will be your lot.
12.--It will be your misfortune, not your fault.
13.--A hearty playmate and a constant friend.
14.--Changes in love at an early date.
15.--A long life and a merry one.
16.--Fears from a rival, but success ultimately will be yours.
17.--Beware of a false friend.
18.--Bright and cheerful in youth.
19.--Unhappy ere long, but the sunshine will follow in the end.
20.--Your present sweetheart will not be your mate.

It will be seen that some of the above are very definite, but it is generally advisable that the prognostications should be vague, and capable of more than one interpretation, or the infallibility of the Prophet is likely not to be implicitly believed in. The Prophet is a very useful toy to introduce into a drawing-room entertainment for children, especially where he is not known (and he is not frequently met with); a few sets of prognostications will prove a source of a good half-hour's fun with a lot of inquiring youngsters.

PUFF AND DART.

The game of Puff and Dart is very similar to that already described under the heading of "Dart and Target," and is one of the games included by many under the more general description of Drawing-room Archery. The dart is made in the same manner, but of a smaller size, as is the dart used in the game of Dart and Target, but instead of being thrown from the hand towards the target as in that game, it is in this propelled through a small tube by a puff of the breath. The target is precisely similar to the target used in the sister game.

Darts shot by the breath through tubes are favourite weapons of offence among certain Indian tribes; they, however, first dip the tip of the dart in some poisonous substance, and then send it at the enemy. It is a deadly weapon, and the tribes using it are very skilful both in their aim and in the force with which the weapon is directed.

PUSH PIN.

The game of Push Pin is certainly a game that does not require a vast amount of ingenuity or intelligence to indulge in with success. It is very contemptuously described in Strutt's "Sports and Pastimes" in the following language:--"Push Pin is a very silly sport, being nothing more than simply pushing one pin across another." But as this description is somewhat vague, it is well to enlarge a little on the simple, but yet to many amusing and interesting, game of Push Pin.

The game is usually played by two players only, and each player puts down on the table one, two, three, or more pins, as may be decided upon. At starting the pins are to be placed in couples, head to head, one pin of each couple being placed by each player. Each player then alternately pushes his pin with his finger-nail, endeavouring to push it across his opponent's pin, and should he succeed both pins become his, but if he fail his opponent plays. The push is not to be a continued push, but a sort of a shove with the finger-nail, by bending it on the table and letting it fly up to hit the pin in the required direction.

PUZZLE-WIT.

_See_ "Magic Fan."

QUINTAIN.

The Quintain is another balancing toy, very ingenious in construction, which, although it may be made at home, will be found somewhat difficult of construction. One of the leading toy-makers thus describes its manufacture:--"Carve the bust of a man with a ferocious face; on the face gum a Turkish beard and moustaches; let one arm be extended, half bent, holding a wooden scimitar, and the other bear a shield, adorned with an opening, crescent-shaped, in which hangs a little bell. Load the base of the figure with lead, and poise it on a pin, on which it shall so freely revolve as to move at a touch, even so slight as that of a feather. Now, whoever, trying to make the bell ring with his finger, does not thrust at it very quickly, the figure, turning round, will deal him a smart blow on the forefinger knuckle with the sabre."

The principle on which the Revolving Ring or the Revolving Image works is precisely similar to that of the Quintain.

QUIZ.

_See_ "Bandilor."

RACE GAME.

The Race Game is an interesting round parlour game, which may be indulged in by any number of players up to twelve. It has seen many imitations and modifications of it brought into use, and the games of the University Boat Race and the National Volunteers may be instanced as two specimens of more than ordinary interest; the first of these, however, can only be played by two persons at a time.

The Race Game proper is played on a board, and is subject to rules supplied with the board and the other materials for the game. The board is marked into divisions, and at certain distances obstacles, such as fences, hurdles, and ditches are placed, for the horses participating in the race to clear. The players having determined the order of playing, each one selects his horse, and places it at the starting-point. Dice and dice-box, or a numbered teetotum, are used, to denote the number of divisions the player's horse is entitled to pass over, but should that number land the horse in any one of the brooks or ditches, or upon the fences or hurdles, the throw of the dice, or, as the case may be, the spin of the teetotum, does not count, and the horse waits for another chance of a move when his player's turn next comes round. Each player alternately takes his chance of moving. The rules by which the game is governed vary considerably, and may be modified in any way agreeable to all the players. The following are given merely as specimen rules, as they are the substance of those most frequently supplied with the game:--

1.--When the stakes are agreed upon and the pool made, each member
must select his horse, and then enter him at the starting-point.

2.--Each member throws, or spins, for choice of move; the highest
number claims the first move, and the others according to the number
thrown.

3.--The horse that reaches the winning-post first gains the pool, the
second horse saving his stakes.

4.--Steeple or hurdle races can be played by placing fences and
hurdles along the course, and any player throwing a number that would
place his horse so that he does not clear the fence forfeits his
throw, and waits his next turn.

Although the game is made more interesting when played with the materials supplied at the toy-shops, these are by no means indispensable. Any ordinary board, or school slate, may be marked into the necessary course and divisions over which the horses are to travel; a few horses may be readily cut out of some stiff cardboard, and a common teetotum will furnish all the materials absolutely needed for the game. It will be found that the game, so arranged for, will well repay any little trouble taken in manufacturing and obtaining the necessary horses and race-course.

RACQUETS (DRAWING-ROOM).

The game of Drawing-room Racquets is an adaptation of the old-fashioned play of Cup and Ball, so far as is possible, to the game of Racquets played within doors, and in a more or less limited space. The game is usually played by three persons, but the number is immaterial, and may be increased according to the size of the room in which it is played. The game consists in throwing the ball or balls from one cup held by one player to some other cup held by some other player. It is best that the balls should be passed round to the different players in order.

REVOLVING RING.

A ring or a small figure may be so constructed and arranged as to be easily balanced on the top of one of the fingers. Take a piece of wood and cut it into the form of a ring, or get a small wooden ring that is perfectly round; fasten to it two oar-shaped pieces of wood about double the length of the diameter of the ring; balance the ring when so furnished on the point of a pin, and then, if the balancing has been properly arranged, upon the head of the pin being placed upon the tip of the forefinger the ring may be made to revolve quickly, and at the same time retain its balance, by blowing, at first gently, and then with more force, upon the oar-shaped appendages attached to the ring.

A small figure may be worked in the same manner by cutting a piece of wood to a point, and carving the opposite end into the form of the head and shoulders of a man; the pair of oars should be attached in the place of arms, and then, if care to make the point of the wood exactly in its centre has been taken, the figure will stand upright on the tip of the finger, and by blowing he may be made to revolve in a most amusing manner. The Revolving Figure is a more amusing toy than the Revolving Ring; but in that it requires so much more nicety and delicacy of handling to get the proper balance, it is not so easily made.

There is a capital game known by the name of "Revolving Ring," adapted for either out-door or in-door games. It is played with variously coloured balls, which are thrown at rings similarly coloured. The rings are fitted to a board, and in such a way that with the slightest touch on the rims they revolve. The object of the game is to throw the six balls through the revolving rings, the players taking their stand from the board at some specified distance. Each successful throw counts three; and when a ball is thrown through the ring of the same colour the player scores six.

RINGOLETTE.

_See_ "Parlour Quoits."

RING THE BULL.

This is a game very similar to but somewhat more simple than that of Parlour Quoits. It also is a game of skill. It is played upon a wooden block, in which are inserted a number of long iron pins, on which the player has to throw rings provided for that purpose. The players score according to the number of rings that are so thrown as to encircle a pin.

ROYAL STAR.

The materials for this game are a large star with eight long rays, each one of which is painted some different colour; and eight wooden balls painted to correspond with the colours of the rays of the star. The rays of the star are not fixtures, but their bases are merely slipped into grooves in the body of the star, so that they can be easily knocked out with the balls.

To play the game, each player alternately takes all the eight balls, and standing away from the star at a certain specified distance throws the balls at the star, endeavouring by that means to knock out the rays. If a player should succeed in striking out a ray of the same colour as the ball, two points are scored, but if the ball and the ray knocked out are not of the same colour, one point only is scored. If in any throw the star is altogether missed, three points are to be deducted. When the first player has thrown the eight balls, such rays as may have been knocked out are replaced, and the next player takes the balls and commences the game, and so on until all have had a chance. It is well that a curtain or screen should be arranged behind the star to stop the balls.

SCHIMMEL.

The game of Schimmel, or, as it is generally known, of Bell and Hammer, is a most amusing round game of German origin. The materials for playing the game are comparatively inexpensive, and as some of them can be prepared by any ordinarily clever lad--and all lads are clever--there is no reason why this game should not, were it but better known, attain much more popularity than it seems to be favoured with.

The materials required are--

1.--Five small cards, on each of which are drawn or painted one of
the following figures: On one card a white horse, on another an inn,
on the third a bell, on the fourth a hammer, on the fifth a bell and
a hammer.

2.--Eight wood, bone, or ivory cubes of the size of dice, marked
on one side only, six of which are numbered respectively with the
numerals 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6; the other two cubes being marked, the
one with a bell, and the other with a hammer.

3.--A dice box with which to throw the cubes.

4.--A hammer for knocking down the cards to their respective
purchasers, which are disposed of by auction, as set forth hereafter.

5.--A bag of counters.

The game may be played by an unlimited number of players, the more the better, it being especially advisable that at least seven should join in the game. The mode of procedure is as follows:--One of the players is to be selected as cashier, and to him has to be entrusted the bag of counters. A considerable number of these should be equally divided among all the players, and if it is desired they may be taken to represent value. Nuts make good substitutes for counters, as to those players not yet troubled with indigestion they possess in themselves a certain value, especially if it be understood that all winnings may be retained (or eaten).

A pool has to be formed, into which each player pays twelve counters. It is then the duty of the cashier to sell by auction to the highest bidders the five cards, the produce of which also is paid into the pool. Each player is at liberty to purchase as many of the cards as he may be inclined, and, moreover, he is not bound to pay for all, but is at liberty to take credit for a certain portion of his purchases if they exceed the number of counters originally dealt out to him; only payment of the debt so incurred must be considered as a first charge on subsequent winnings. The cards will, by experience at the game, be found to be of various values; but the number of counters to be paid for each is determined by the speculative natures of the players, and it, indeed, often happens that those players who invest in no cards at all are at the end of the game the richest in the matter of wealth as reckoned by counters. The respective values of the cards are as follows:--The white horse ranks first, and immediately after him comes the inn, the cards representing respectively the bell and the hammer are of about equal value, and come next, while that representing both the bell and the hammer is lowest in the scale, and is worth just half that at which either of the two cards on which are painted the single figures is valued.

The cubes are then to be thrown by the players alternately, their order having been previously arranged, it being always allowed, however, that the possessors of cards take precedence over the other players, and over each other, according to the relative values of their cards. It should be stated rather that each player alternately is entitled to a throw of the cubes or dice, for any player is at liberty to sell his throw to any other player inclined to speculate therein. When the cubes are thrown and show uppermost all blanks, all the players have to pay one counter each to the holder of the white horse, and he again pays one to the holder of the inn. If the cubes turn up with the bell or the hammer, or with the bell and the hammer, the holder or holders of these cards pay one counter to the white horse. When the bell, hammer, or bell and hammer are thrown accompanied with numbers, the amount of the numbers thrown has to be paid in counters to the holder or holders of the cards out of the pool; if numbers are thrown unaccompanied with either bell or hammer, or bell and hammer, the thrower of the cubes receives from pool the number of counters indicated by the cubes.

It is when the pool is becoming exhausted that advantages accrue to the holder of the inn, and this indeed is usually found to be a very speculative holding. If any player in his throw shows numbers combined greater than the number of counters remaining in the pool, he receives nothing from pool, but pays to the holder of the inn the difference between the number of counters remaining and the number indicated by the cubes; for example, if five counters are remaining in pool, and seven are shown uppermost on the thrown cubes, the player who threw the cubes pays two counters to the holder of the inn, and leaves the five counters in the pool. So on the play proceeds, until some figure is thrown which, clearing the pool, concludes the game.

After the holder of the inn card begins to receive payment, should all blanks be thrown, the players throwing the cubes pay nothing; but instead, the holder of the white horse pays one counter to the holder of the inn; should the bell or hammer, or bell and hammer be thrown with the blanks, the holder or holders of the card or cards indicated each pays one to the holder of the inn. If numbers are thrown accompanying the bell, &c., the holder of that card pays to the inn the number thrown in excess of the number of counters remaining in the pool.

SHOVEL BOARD.

The game of Shovel Board was once a very important national pastime, and was much played among fashionable people. Master Slender, in "The Merry Wives of Windsor," makes a reference to the game, from which it would appear that Shovel Board was in Shakspere's time both popular and fashionable.

The game was formerly played upon a long, low table that usually stood in the large hall of a gentleman's house, but was soon adapted to smaller tables, and was indeed frequently played on the floor, the necessary limits being chalked out on the bricks. The following description of the game will be found applicable, whether it be played on the floor or on the orthodox table or board, it being premised that the space marked out on the floor should be about twenty-five or thirty feet in length and three feet in breadth, a space corresponding with the size of an ancient Shovel Board.

The tables on which the game is now played vary somewhat in length, but are usually three feet to three and a half feet wide. At one end of the table a line is drawn parallel with the edge, and three or four inches from it; at four feet distance another line is made over which it is necessary for the weight to pass when shoved or thrown. The players stand at the end of the table, opposite to the two lines above mentioned, each having four flat metal weights, which they alternately shove from them one at a time. The object of the play is to give sufficient impetus to the weight to carry it beyond the mark nearest to the opposite edge of the table, but so as to keep it on the table. If the weight is shoved so that it hangs over the edge without falling, three are counted towards game; if between the line and edge, without hanging over, two are scored; if on the line one only is credited to the player. The game is usually eleven when two play, but when more than two are jointly concerned that number should be increased.

Those weights that glance off the side of the table, that do not pass the first line, or that fall off the table at the opposite edge, it will be seen do not score. It is sometimes allowed that all weights passing the first, or four-foot line, score one, instead of making it incumbent that the second line should be reached.

The following description of the game, which differs somewhat from the above, appears in the "English Cyclopædia":--"The origin of the game Shuffle, or Shovel Board, is doubtful; it has been practised for many generations ... and has lately been largely introduced into America.... The board, or alley, is thirty feet long by twenty inches wide, perfectly level, like a billiard table, and constructed of some wood which will not warp. Before commencing to play, it is sprinkled with fine sand, and five inches from each end a line is drawn across the board, parallel with the ends. Eight weights or pieces are required, divided into two sets of four each, and marked with distinctive features. The game is played by four people, two against two, one on either side standing at each end of the board. Twenty-one points have to be scored to win a game; each piece which lies over or inside the line, at the end of a round being 'in,' and scoring two points in favour of the side to which it belongs, whilst a piece partly projecting over the end of the board scores three points. Should no piece be 'in' at the end of a round, that nearest the line counts as one point, and a piece lying exactly on the line is counted 'in.' The players '_shuffle_' alternately from each end of the board, the great object of each competitor being to 'shuffle' his own piece in, or drive his opponent's off the board."

SKITTLE CANNONADE.

The game of Skittle Cannonade, or Indian Skittle Pool, is a capital game for boys. It is in its higher development played on an ordinary billiard-table, but a bagatelle board will answer all the purpose, or it may even be played on a common dining-table, provided that round its edges are placed such cushions as are supplied with a Table Croquet set.

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Plan of Skittle Cannonade.]