Chapter IV: Part 4

Among the other leading toys for in-door recreation we would mention "Noah's Arks," "Farm Yards," "Shops," "Railways," "Omnibuses," "Tram Cars," "Wagons," "Horses" (an endless delight to the very young, and which may be had in almost any form, from the simple wooden toy drawn by a handle to that now so common, and which is mounted on a miniature but well-made tricycle), animals of all sorts and noises, singing and talking birds, miniature toy musical instruments, and other toys of a never-ending variety made especially for the male portion of the juvenile population, without mentioning here, in this Boys' Book, those dolls and other toys intended for the amusement of the boys' sisters and female cousins. As an illustration of the ingenuity of the toy-producers, it may be stated that among the latest additions to the more expensive of the mechanical toys is that known as the animal album, of which we give an engraving. This book has represented on the left-hand page the figure of some animal, and on the right-hand page there is some text descriptive of the creature exhibited. On pulling a small button attached to the book, the noise or sound peculiar to the animal on the opened page will be emitted from under the opposite leaf. In the woodcut the letterpress facing the portrait of Chanticleer has been removed to show the mechanism for producing the cries of the various animals.

In short, before proceeding to the description of those toys and toy games selected for more detailed treatment, it may be observed that the possession of toys is in itself a good thing; that the making of and making use of them is better; that the capability of obtaining amusement from those owned, be they simple or be they complicated, is better still; but that it is best of all to be able also to be the means of imparting amusement to those about us.

ÆOLIAN HARP.

This interesting little toy is best if made on a long box of very thin deal wood, about four or six inches deep, a circle an inch and a half in diameter, in which some small holes are to be drilled, being marked on the upper side of the box. Bridges, like the bridge of an ordinary violin or fiddle, are to be fastened on to each end of the upper side, and over these bridges are to be passed a number of strings of very fine cat-gut. The strings at one end are to be secured in the framework of the box, and at the other on screw pins, which are themselves fastened to the box. The strings can then be relaxed or tightened, as desired, by turning these pins, and the notes emitted by the different strings altered and arranged according to fancy. The instrument so made should be blown upon or placed in a current of air where the wind can pass freely over it, and then, according to the degrees of strength with which the strings are blown upon, different sounds will be produced.

ANIMATED SERPENT.

The animated serpent is a simple and pretty toy. To make it, obtain, if possible, a piece of thin sheet copper or sheet brass, and if not, a piece of card of firm substance, but not too thick. Draw upon the material the form of a coiled-up serpent; cut out the serpent with the point of a sharp pen-knife, and fasten a thread through the tip of the tail. When this is done, fasten to the mantelpiece, or to some board to be placed thereon, the other end of the thread, taking care that the stove register is open. The weight of the serpent's body and head will cause the coils and head to fall below the suspended tail, and then, as a current of air is always passing up an open chimney, the serpent will revolve with more or less rapidity, according to the strength of the draught of air. It is well that the serpent when made should be striped green, black, and yellow, and should have glass beads, to represent eyes. Any situation in which there is a draught of air will be suitable, as well as the chimney-piece, in showing off the toy when made.

ANNULETTE.

_See_ "Parlour Croquet."

APPLE MILL.

This is a top-toy readily made with a nut, an apple or potato, a wooden skewer, and a piece of string. First procure a good-sized Spanish or Barcelona nut, and through it bore a small hole, carefully removing all the kernel therefrom, and then make another small hole in one side of the shell. Pare down an ordinary wooden meat-skewer until it is thin enough to pass through the nut at the holes first bored therein, being careful to leave a head to the skewer at the top to prevent it passing entirely through the nut-shell. A piece of string should next be attached to the skewer at a point just beneath the head, the opposite end of which is to be passed through the hole in the side of the nut. The string is then to be wound round the skewer as the string is wound round an ordinary humming-top, leaving a small piece to pull. If an apple or potato is then stuck upon the pointed end of the skewer, and the string is pulled as when a humming-top is to be spun, the "apple mill," as made above, will spin round with considerable velocity.

APPLE WOMAN.

This is an ingenious hand-trick, and consists in so dressing up the hand as to make it represent an apple woman.

Clench the fist, holding it knuckles upwards, covering the top joint of the thumb with the top joints of the fingers. Draw on these portions of the forefinger and thumb, forming the front of the clenched fist, a face, using a few bold dots and lines to represent the eyes, eyebrows, nose, &c. Make a cap to fit the hand, and drape a pocket-handkerchief over all, fastening it as a shawl in front. The old woman so made may be made to seem to speak by slightly moving the knuckle of the thumb up and down, and to smoke by sticking a pipe between the forefinger and the thumb, the space between which joints will represent the mouth. The above illustration is a fair representation of the apple woman's face, and a careful inspection will show how the thumb and fingers are to be arranged.

BANDILOR.

This is a toy made of hard wood, and in appearance is not much unlike a pulley with a very deep groove. A piece of string is to be wound round the groove, a hole being made in the centre of the wood, through which the end of the string has first to be secured. In playing with the toy, the loose end of the string is to be held between the forefinger and thumb, and the grooved piece of wood is to be let fall. The string is thus unwound, and if the fall of the wood is suddenly checked by a sharp jerk, the Bandilor will commence to rise, and in this way may be made to continue alternately descending and ascending for a considerable time. This toy is sometimes known by the name of Quiz.

BATTLEDORE AND SHUTTLECOCK.

This is a game equally for in-door and out-door recreation, but as the mode of playing and the materials are fully described in CASSELL'S BOOK OF SPORTS AND PASTIMES, it is only necessary here to refer the reader to that work.

BELL AND HAMMER.

_See_ "Schimmel."

BIRD WHISTLES.

Whistles to imitate the songs of birds may be readily made in different ways. Remove the spout from a small toy teapot, make a whistle at the lower end of a quill, and fit that end to the hole of the teapot left upon the spout being removed, then fill the teapot rather more than half full of water, blow the whistle, and clear bird-like notes will be sounded.

Another form of bird whistle may be made out of a piece of elder or willow. Make in the middle of a piece of either of these woods a whistle, the wood being, of course, first hollowed out. Place one end of the whistle so made in the mouth, and the opposite end just under the surface of a glass of water. By then blowing, the bird-like notes, as with the quill and the teapot, will be obtained. These whistles may be made of metal or glass as well as wood.

BIRDS, BEASTS, AND FISHES.

_See_ "Slate Games."

BOMBARDMENT.

_See_ "Cannonade."

BOTTLE IMPS.

Obtain from the toy-shop some small enamelled figures that are made partially hollow towards their lower part, place them in a glass jar filled quite full to the brim with water, and carefully close the jar by covering it tightly with a piece of parchment. Now, by alternately placing the hand upon the cover and lifting it off again, the figures are made to descend and ascend in the water. This is caused by the hollowness before mentioned, the cavities in the figures retaining a certain quantity of air, and imparting the requisite buoyancy to them. When the hand is pressed upon the parchment cover of the bottle the water rises, in consequence of the pressure, into the figures. The air so being compressed into less space, renders the imps less buoyant, and they fall; on the pressure being removed they rise again.

BROTHER JONATHAN.

This is a game of American origin, and consists in pitching a copper or some other convenient object at the spaces of a diagram arranged and numbered, as shown in the accompanying plan. The larger spaces should bear the smaller numbers, and the smaller spaces the larger numbers. A mark from which the pitch is to be made must be arranged, and those pitches only count which are made into one or other of the compartments; pitches made upon the different lines are not counted. The number marked in the compartment pitched into counts towards game, which may be fixed at any number according to the pleasure of the players.

+----+-----------+---------+
|20 | 3 | 4 |
+----+----+---+--+------+--+
| 11 | 20| 10 | |
+---------+-+-+------+--+--+
| 2 | 7 | 9 |
+--+--------+--------+-+---+
|20| 1 |20 |
+--+-----+------+------+---+
| 6 | 8 | 5 |
+--------+------+----------+

Brother Jonathan.]

_Crack Loo_ is a somewhat similar game, and it consists in pitching on a boarded floor with the object of pitching on one or other of the cracks separating the boards.

CAMERA (MINIATURE).

The materials required to make this toy are a small pill-box, a small piece of broken looking-glass about half an inch square, and a little piece of beeswax. Bore a small hole in the centre of the lid of the pill-box, and another hole in the side of the box; then, by means of the beeswax, stick the bit of looking-glass across the bottom of the box, at an angle of forty-five degrees. By looking now through one of the holes in the box the reflection of objects passing behind will be seen. In making a miniature camera it is not necessary that the materials used should be so small as those here set forth, but even of such materials as those mentioned an effective little toy may be easily constructed, and more ambitious cameras are to be made on just the same principle.

CANNONADE.

The game of Cannonade, or Castle Bagatelle as it is more generally called, is a capital Round Game. The rules for playing it, which are supplied with the board and other apparatus, are somewhat intricate, and the toy is too elaborate to be made except at a manufactory. A number of miniature castles, enclosed in miniature fortresses, are arranged inside and around the edge of a circular tray board; a number of well-turned balls, equal to the number of castles being played, are then placed tolerably near each other towards the middle of the board, and among the balls so placed each player alternately spins as vehemently as possible a good-sized teetotum; the teetotum sends the balls flying among the castles, and the owners of the castles overturned pay forfeit to the spinner of the teetotum, while the owners of the castles that remain standing receive forfeit from him.

There is a version of this game known at the toy-shops as the "Game of Bombardment." It is a German introduction, and although not so good a game as that of Castle Bagatelle, is very similar in principle, affords good fun to a round party, and is not quite so expensive to purchase as the older English toy.

CARPET CROQUET.

_See_ "Parlour Croquet."

CASTLE BAGATELLE.

_See_ "Cannonade."

COMMON WHISTLE.

But little description either of the Common Whistle, or of how to make it, is necessary, it being so well known. The tin whistle can hardly be made except with the aid of expensive tools, but it may be purchased at a very trifling cost. No lad, however, need be without a whistle even when no toy-shop is near. A good whistle may be made out of almost any straight piece of scooped-out wood, the model of the tin whistle being adhered to as closely as possible. A nice piece of elder neatly carved and plugged may even be made to do duty for a miniature flute, and so made, various notes are to be extracted from it.

CRACK LOO.

_See_ "Brother Jonathan."

CUP AND BALL.

The Cup and Ball has long been a favourite toy. It consists of a stem of ivory or some hard wood, one end of which is pointed, while to the other is fixed a small shallow cup. To the stem an ivory or hard wood ball is attached by means of a piece of string, and in one side of the ball a hole is drilled into which the pointed end of the stem fits. The game is, when the ball is loosely attached to the stem, to throw it up so as to catch it either within the cup at the one end of the stem, or on the point at the other end, the latter feat being by far the most difficult. To accomplish this, the stem is to be held lightly in the right hand; then make the ball revolve by twirling it between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, and when its motion becomes steady, throw it up with a slight jerk of the right wrist, and as it descends endeavour to catch it in one of the ways just mentioned. Calculate well the length of the string in throwing up the ball, so that it is not thrown to the full length of the string, or it will be almost impossible to succeed in catching it.

CUPOLETTE.

Although its warmest admirers will hardly maintain that the game of Cupolette requires much skill, yet it succeeds in affording considerable amusement. The materials for the game are a board with a number of sunken and differently numbered cups, a ball for each cup, and a movable arm, which is attached to the board, and from which a ball, heavier than the other balls, is suspended by a cord. The play commences with the balls placed in the cups; the first player then turns the arm to any position he prefers, draws the suspended ball out to the full length of its cord, and allows it to swing back, so as to strike one or more of the balls out of the cups. Each ball knocked out scores one point; a ball struck out of one cup and into another scores the number of points indicated by the number of the cup; a ball struck off the board is lost and scores nothing. Each player is entitled to four strokes, and each player, as it becomes his turn to play, replaces all the balls as at first, and proceeds as above. A game is usually either sixty-one or a hundred and one, according to the number of players. Sides may be formed if it is desired.

CUT-WATER.

The toy known as the Cut-Water is made in the following manner:--Cut a circular piece of tin or sheet-lead, three inches or so in diameter, into the form of a circular saw; bore two holes in it along the diameter at about an inch apart; through these holes pass the two ends of a string, tie the ends of the string together, and the toy is made. To use it, the string is to be taken up in the two hands, the metal saw being allowed to hang loosely at the middle of the string, and then thrown round and round until the string becomes very tightly twisted. Upon the hands then being drawn outwards, the string untwists, and the metal saw rapidly revolves. So soon as the string is all untwisted, the hands should be allowed to go slightly nearer each other, when it will be found that the Cut-Water will revolve in the opposite direction. Again, when the string has become once more twisted, the hands should be drawn outwards, then inwards, and again outwards, and so on alternately. The name of "Cut-Water" is derived from a common way of playing with the toy. It is dipped a little below the surface of water whilst being spun, and it then sends showers of spray towards the player who spins it, or away from him, according to the direction in which it may be spinning.

An imitation Cut-Water may be more readily, and indeed often is, made by passing a piece of string through two of the holes of a common breeches' button, and treating the toy so made as explained above.

DANCING HIGHLANDER.

The Dancing Highlander, like the Apple Woman and a few other imitations described among the toy games, is really a hand performance supplemented by a few accessories. For the performance of the Dancing Highlander, get an old glove and cut off the tops of the first two fingers down to about the second joint; next will be required a very small pair of baby's socks, which are to be painted some plaid pattern, and fitted to the first and second fingers. Draw on the glove, then pull the socks on the first two fingers, padding out that for the first finger so as to be equal in length to that for the second. The figure of a Highlander in his national costume, which should have been first prepared out of cardboard and appropriately coloured, is then to be pasted on to the back of the glove; the tops of the two first fingers of the gloves should do duty for shoes, and the uncovered portions of the performer's fingers will show as the bare knees of the kilted Scot, who may then be made to dance or perform any of those wild antics usually attributed to the Highlander when his foot is on his native heath.

DANCING PEA.

A common pea, two small pins, and a piece of the straight stem of a broken clay tobacco-pipe, are the requirements for making this curious little toy. Run the pins crosswise through the pea, and cover their points with a little bit of sealing-wax, to prevent mischief in the event of the pins striking any one's face. Put the point of one of the pins down the stem of the tobacco-pipe, so that the pea will rest thereon. Place the other end of the pipe in the mouth, holding the head back and the pipe stem perpendicularly. Upon then blowing steadily the pea will dance amusingly in the air.

DART AND TARGET.

The apparatus required for this game is easily made. The dart is a straight piece of stick, about six inches long, with a pin stuck in at one end, and a paper guide at the other. The pin, which should be an ordinary large-sized pin, must have the head removed, and be pushed into the end of the stick, with the point outwards, and then secured in its place by a piece of twine or sealing-wax. The guide is made of a square piece of paper folded twice from corner to corner, and then inserted in cross slits made at the opposite end of the stick. The target is best if made of a piece of soft wood board, and should have painted on it three or four concentric circles of different colours, with a bull's-eye in the centre. The darts should then be thrown at the target from some distance to be agreed upon, and scores made according to the nearness of the darts to the bull's-eye. Each circle should be differently numbered, the outer circle counting one, the next two, and so on, an extra allowance being made for the bull's-eye.

DARTELLE.

This is the name given to Dart and Target at the toy shops. It makes a pretty toy, and combines in itself both darts and duly marked target, with the necessary instructions for play.

DECIMAL GAME.

Get a long piece of board and fix into it ten pins in a row. On each pin place a ring, and the game then is to make the ten rings into five pairs of rings in five moves, passing over two occupied pins with every move. The feat is to be accomplished in the following among other methods: Let the accompanying diagram represent the pins, board, and the rings as first placed thereon; remove No. 7 to No. 10, No. 6 to No. 3, No. 4 to No. 9, No. 8 to No. 2, and No. 1 to No. 5. The changes may be done in the reverse way, by commencing from No. 4 to No. 1, instead of No. 7 to No. 10, and so on, and other slight variations may be introduced. The game may also be played with ten counters, or ten pieces of paper, on a table or board, and without any pins. Indeed, children are frequently seen playing the game out of doors with ten common stones.

DEMON BOTTLE.

Cut a piece of pith of wood, or some equally light substance, into the shape of a small bottle, and at its base fasten the half of a small bullet (_a_, _see_ figure). Down the centre of the bottle bore a hole, and fit the hole with a steel pin (_a_ _b_). The bottle so made may be rendered obedient to the commands of its owner, who, when he wishes it to stand upright and resist the commands of the bystanders, will previously have removed the pin; when he wishes it to act in the contrary manner he will insert the pin, which will be found to counteract the weight of the bullet, and the bottle will obediently recline after receiving its owner's orders to do so; the owner of course then being careful to give such orders.

DRAWING-ROOM ARCHERY.

_See_ "Puff and Dart," "Dart and Target," and "Dartelle."

DUTCH RACQUETS.

Dutch Racquets, or the Dutch Top Game, is very similar to the game of Castle Bagatelle, or Cannonade. The appliances needed are somewhat expensive, and the description of how to play the game, with the rules by which it is governed, is supplied with the toy.

The game is played on a board fitted with metal barriers that are variously numbered, and on the different numbers miniature skittles are placed. A metal top is then spun at one end of the board, and as it travels, the skittles, or some of them, will be overthrown. The numbers covered by the skittles overthrown count towards game.

ENFIELD SKITTLES.

This is a game played on a level board with raised edges. Nine small wooden pins are arranged at one end of the board as skittles are arranged in the ordinary skittle-alley game. These skittle pins are then bowled at by means of a small ivory or boxwood ball, propelled with an ordinary billiard cue. The game is frequently arranged for on an ordinary dining-room table, precautions being first taken to prevent the ball from rolling off.

FLYING CONES.

Flying Cones are made of hard wood, hollow, a hole being made at one side so as to produce a humming sound when the completed toy is being spun. Two such cones are fastened together at the apex. The spinning apparatus consists of two thin sticks, to the tips of which a string of about a yard long has to be tied. To play the toy, lay the cones on some flat surface, take one of the sticks in each hand, holding them at the opposite ends to those to which the string has been attached, slip the string under the cones, so as to catch them just at that point where they have been united, being careful that the toy is somewhat nearer to the right-hand than to the left-hand stick. Next, raise the sticks, at the same time making such a movement with the right hand as to set the double cone revolving on the string. By a sort of whipping movement, first with one hand and then with the other, it may be kept spinning; when quickly spun, it will make a humming sound, and with practice considerable dexterity in the use of this toy will be easily attained.

When the toy has obtained sufficient speed to commence humming, many pretty feats may be shown with it. It may be flung in the air, and as it falls it may be caught on the loose or tightened string, or on one of the sticks, and made to roll towards one or other of the hands of the player. Two players, each being provided with the necessary sticks, with string attached, may keep a flying cone spinning a long time, and at the same time be continually throwing it backwards and forwards from one to the other. This toy is also known as Le Diable, and is usually sold in the toy-shops under that name.

FRENCH AND ENGLISH.

_See_ "Slate Games."

GAS BALLOONS.

Small Gas Balloons are made of thin sheet india-rubber or gutta-percha, or tissue paper; larger ones are made of oiled silk. Cut gores of the material to be used sufficient in number when fastened together, the sides of each gore overlapping the gore fastened to it, to form a globe of the desired size with pear-shaped ends. Join the gores together, so as to make them completely air-tight; when the heavier materials are used they should be sewn together, and then covered with glue or thin varnish. At the lower end of the balloon insert a tube, and tie all the narrow tips of the gores firmly round it. Cover all with a solution made of india-rubber dissolved in naphtha and turpentine, and over the balloon place a net bag that has been previously made of the proper size and shape.

The gas with which the balloon is to be filled is made in the following manner:--Put a pound of granulated zinc or iron filings into two quarts of water in a stone jar, and add gradually a pint of sulphuric acid. Have a tube of glass or metal run through the bung with which the jar is corked, and after taking the materials out of doors, fill the balloon by connecting this tube with the tube already placed at its mouth. When the balloon is filled, tie its neck very tightly, and it will rise into the air. Common coal-gas may be used when it can be obtained. A small car made of some light material may be attached to the netting which goes over the balloon.

Soap-bubbles inflated with gas may be made in the following manner:--Fill a bladder with hydrogen gas, adapt a tobacco-pipe to the mouth of the bladder, and dip the bowl of the pipe into soap and water; then press the bladder, and bubbles will be duly formed, which floating away will at once rise in the air.

Toy balloons ready to be filled with hydrogen gas may be now purchased at many toy-shops, or of philosophical instrument-makers.

GERMAN BALLS.

Luck and skill combined in about equal degrees make the principal charm of this game, which is a very simple one, and which in many respects resembles the game of marbles known as "Die Shot."

The game may be played equally well in-doors on a carpeted floor or out of doors on a lawn, or any other level surface. The materials required are a number of balls, and a larger ball shaped as a die with eight sides, numbered respectively 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. The die is placed on the ground with the figure 8 downwards, and the players, each being supplied with a ball, bowl alternately at the die from some point at a distance from the die to be agreed upon. If the die is missed, nothing is scored, and in some places the player who misses pays one to a pool. If the die is hit, the player whose ball hit it scores the number on the side of the die which remains uppermost.

Under some rules each player puts a stake into a pool, and he who attains the highest score in a certain number of throws wins the pool. If, however, any player should succeed in turning the die so that the number 8 remains uppermost, he takes the pool at once, and a new game is then commenced.

GERMAN BILLIARDS.

This is a game played with balls on a board on which is a complicated arrangement of pins, hoops, holes, recesses, and cups, the holes, recesses, and cups in which are variously numbered. The balls are propelled by means of a spring fitted into one side of the board, and the scores are in accordance with the numbers marked in the respective holes, recesses, and cups that the balls fall into after wandering through the many pins and hoops that are fixed all over the board.

HAT MEASUREMENT.

The practice known as Hat Measurement has sprung up owing to the fact that very few people either have but very little idea of the probable height of very common objects, or if they know the actual height in inches of those objects, are unable to demonstrate that height. The judgment is very frequently tested by asking the company present to mark on a wall about the height of an ordinary chimney-pot hat; and in the majority of cases, upon a hat being actually brought in, it will be found that the height marked is sufficient for at least a hat and a half.

HOMEWARD BOUND.

_See_ "Patchesi."

HYDRAULIC DANCER.

Make a little figure out of a piece of cork, pith, or some equally light material; place in the figure a small hollow cone of thin leaf brass; then set the figure on any water-jet or small fountain, and it will remain suspended on the top of the water, and will jump, dance, and move about in a very amusing manner. A hollow ball of thin copper, placed on a jet or fountain in a similar way, will remain suspended, turning round and spreading the water gracefully about it.

IMMOVABLE CARD.

Upon the face of it, and on first thoughts, it would appear to be the easiest possible thing to blow over an ordinary visiting card placed on a table, provided it be not secured in any mechanical manner. If a visiting card is neatly turned down at the narrow edges, about a quarter or a third of an inch, so that the edges turned down are at right-angles with the remainder of the card, and the card be then placed on the turned down edges, the feat would seem to be still more easy than if the card were simply placed flat on the table. The contrary, however, is the case, and unless let into the secret one may blow at a card so placed for hours without being able to overturn it.

To accomplish the feat, the blowing must be done on the table, not on the card, and at some distance from the card.

INDIAN SKITTLE POOL.

_See_ "Skittle Cannonade."

JACK-IN-THE-BOX.

The toy known as Jack-in-the-Box is familiar to all, and is always the source of much fun; it may be readily made by any ingenious lad who will carefully follow the accompanying description:--

The toy consists of a box containing a figure of some comical shape. Inside the figure a piece of wire, known as the spring, is coiled up, corkscrew-wise, like the spring within a carriage candle lamp. The box should be made so that when the lid is closed the wire or spring within the figure is compressed; on the removal of the pressure from the lid the wire regains its original form, and out springs the figure. The figure is sometimes secured to the bottom of the box, and sometimes attached to the side by a long piece of string, and then when the lid is suddenly unfastened, Jack will spring out of his hiding-place and fly up high into the air.

JAPANESE FAN.

_See_ "Magic Fan."

JERK STRAWS.

This is a rough version of the game of Spillikins, or Spelicans, more fully described further on. Jerk-straws, Jack-straws, or Juggling-sticks, as they are indifferently called, are a number of small rounded sticks, forty or fifty or more, about twice as long and of the same thickness as a common Tandstickor match. These are thrown loosely in a confused heap upon the table, and the players have to remove them, one by one, by means of a longer stick, hooked or pointed as desired, without, in the process of removing one stick, touching or disturbing any other. The first player removes as many as he can in this way, but as soon as he disturbs any other than the one to be removed, in the slightest degree, or touches any other one, he gives place to the next player, and so on. At the end of the game, the player has won who has secured the largest number of sticks.

LE DIABLE.

_See_ "Flying Cones."

MAGIC FAN.

The description of several paper toys appears in this section of the book, but of them all the Magic Fan is the most ingenious, its varieties being so numerous. It is known by the names of the "Magic Fan," "Japanese Fan," "Puzzle-Wit," and "Trouble-Wit," and is often exhibited for profit in the public streets of populous places by members of that class of people who prefer living by their wits to working hard. As a toy, however, to be made at home, it is well worth something more than a mere superficial acquaintanceship.

In its manufacture a piece of good stout paper will be required, in size twenty-four inches by nineteen, or proportionately larger or smaller. The paper is to be measured into six equal parts, the divisions being marked on the margin, as shown in Fig. 1. Double the paper in half, as shown in Fig. 2. Fold the uppermost half outwards, making the fold as shown in the same figure by the letters A A. Turn the paper over and fold the other half in precisely the same way, thus making the paper as shown in Fig. 3. Upon examining the edge A A A, two openings between the folds will be seen, whereas at the edge B B B, three openings will be found. The hand has next to be inserted into the middle of these latter openings, and the paper folded outwards to the right and left, and turned over, when it will show as in Fig. 4. Then pinch the paper from end to end in plaits like a ruff, three-eighths of an inch in depth, so that when it is all pinched it will be in small compass, as in the Fig. 5. The Magic Fan is then complete, and all that remains is to learn how to produce its variety of shapes. It is said that as many as from sixty to seventy varieties have been produced; a few only will, however, be here indicated, as by attention to the directions now given it will be a comparatively easy matter to ring the changes on the kinds specified. It must always be remembered that every time the form of the fan is changed, the paper must be again well pinched together, in order that the folds of the plaits may remain plainly and strongly marked. Unless the folds are kept in order the fan cannot be properly worked.

To produce the first form, the common-shaped fan, Fig. 6, catch the folded paper, Fig. 5, at the bottom with both hands, pinch it in and then spread out the top. For Fig. 7, insert the fingers at A and pass them round to B, raising the paper. To turn Fig. 7 into Fig. 8, insert the fingers at C and pass them round to D.

For the next change, catch the paper by the part now uppermost, pinch that part well together, and the paper takes the form of a scoop (Fig. 9), the upper part of the fan, Fig. 8, becoming the handle of the scoop. Pinch the paper again into the form of Fig. 5, lift up the upper part A, bring the lower plaits, B, well together, and with one hand arrange the upper part, so as to form the head of a mushroom (Fig. 10). A new form may be got by raising part of the double head of the mushroom. For Fig. 11, reverse the paper and spread out the lower part, so that it may represent the body of a wine-glass, that which in Fig. 10 was the head of the mushroom will soon appear as the foot of the glass. To make the Chinese lantern, Fig. 12, open out all the paper and twist it round; catch it now by the central part, and by compressing the central folds well together, something like two of the enormous wheels of a steam stone-crusher will be produced (Fig. 13). The butter cooler, Fig. 14, is obtained by opening the paper out again and catching it at the two ends.

The original form, Fig. 5, must then be again reverted to, and a fresh start may be made by catching the paper at both ends and folding it so as to represent Fig. 15. By drawing it out the table mat, Fig. 16, will next be shown. Raise up the paper at the letters A and B of Fig. 16, and there will appear a dish in the form of Fig. 17. Fig. 18 is obtained by then pressing the paper inwards. The sentry box, Fig. 19, comes by drawing the paper out, and letting it loose at the foot. And so on, many shapes not here set forth may be obtained. Experiment freely on the Magic Fan; if spoiled it costs nothing but a little patience and a few minutes of time to remake, and a dexterous lad will produce staircases, sofas, chairs, flower-pots, windows and window-blinds, nightcaps, boxes, &c. &c. &c.

MAGIC FIGURE.

This is an amusing and easily made toy. Its peculiarity lies in this, that however it may be knocked about, so long as it remains whole, it rises of its own accord to its feet and retains its balance with a gently swaying motion. The figure should be cut out of cork or pith, or something equally light, and may be clothed by gumming on to it some silk floss or other similar substance; to its base, but hidden as much as possible, should be fastened the half of a leaden bullet, with the semicircular side undermost. The weight of the pedestal will then be sufficient to secure the recovery of the figure immediately after being made to lie prostrate.

It will be seen by reference that the principle underlying the manufacture of this toy is similar to that of the Demon Bottle, previously described, the variation being the steel pin in the bottle which, when inserted, counteracts the effect of the weight adjusted to the base of the figure.

MAGIC FLUTE.

The magic flute is to be made out of a good sound and unused cork, which has in it neither holes nor cracks. Place the cork against the teeth, holding it tightly between the lips, and play upon it with the handles of two prongs or forks or the bowls of two spoons. An imitation of the piccolo or small flute will thus be produced, and almost any simple quick air may be played upon it.

MAGICIAN OF MOROCCO.

The Magician of Morocco is a hand performance similar in character to those described under the headings of the Apple Woman and the Dancing Highlander. He is made (_see_ Fig. 1) by holding up a hand, bending down the fourth and little fingers, placing the thumb in front, holding the first finger straight up, and the middle finger slanting half-way between the first and fourth fingers. The top joint of the first finger is to be dotted to represent a face, and on the tip of the finger a handkerchief, knotted at one corner to represent a cap, is to be placed, the remainder of the handkerchief being draped about the hand to do duty for the robe (_see_ Fig. 2). This robe looks more effective if the handkerchief out of which it is made is of some bright colour or colours; an Indian silk handkerchief makes both a capital robe and cap combined; the cap may, indeed, then be easily made to look very like an ordinary Turkish fez.

It will thus be seen that while the first finger in the hand does duty for head, shoulders, and bust, the middle finger, when the whole figure is held sideways to the company, shows as the arms, and the body is made full by means of the position of the thumb and other two fingers.

It is necessary that the Magician of Morocco should have some long outlandish name, and to ensure his success that he should be very voluble with quackeries, divinations, tricks, jests, prophecies, conundrums, scandals, and nonsense of every sort and description; his conversation being accompanied by judicious nods and twists of the head, as it will not be easy to impart much of a twinkle to his eyes.

MAGNETIC SWAN.

The Magnetic Swan, and other articles made in the same manner, will illustrate the properties of the Magnetic Wand. A number of such articles, to represent swans, ducks, small boats, &c., may be made and placed in a basin or tub of water, and kept in motion by a judicious use of the wand. Be careful to model the articles so that they may undoubtedly represent those objects they are intended to resemble.

Swans, ducks, boats, and such birds and things as swim or float on the surface of water, should be made out of cork, pith, or light wood, with a small piece of magnetised steel run through the body. Swans should be covered with white wax, thinly spread over the body of the bird, and the ducks and boats should be treated in the same way, with the addition of being properly coloured afterwards. Glass beads for eyes may be placed in the heads of the birds. Some care in balancing and loading these objects will have to be taken to ensure them floating properly and steadily.

Fish may also be made in a similar way, but much nicety has to be shown to load them so as to sink them below the surface of the water, and yet to make them sufficiently buoyant to keep them from sinking to the bottom.

Toys of this nature are supplied at a small cost at most toy-shops.

MAGNETIC WAND.

A number of very pleasing experiments may be performed by means of the Magnetic Wand. It is made out of a rod of hard wood, about ten inches long by a third of an inch thick. A hole is to be drilled into this rod, and in the hole is to be placed a strongly magnetised steel wire. Two small knobs should then be placed upon the reverse ends of the wand, and, in order that it may be readily known at which end of the wand is the attractive and at which end the repellent point of the magnetised wire, the knobs ought either to be differently carved or one or both of them should bear some distinctive mark. The letters N and S are suitable as specifying the north and the south poles, by which terms the opposite ends of the magnetised wire are scientifically expressed. The wand so made is complete, and by holding one or other of its ends to the tips of small articles floating in water, made after the manner described in the manufacture of the Magnetic Swan, such articles may be made to either follow after or swim from the wand according as it is the north or the south pole which is held out.

It is an easy matter to magnetise a bit of steel wire, and under this heading of how to make a Magnetic Wand, a few hints on magnetising common objects of steel and iron will not be out of place.

An ordinary poker may be magnetised in a very simple manner. Hold it in the left hand, pointing it somewhat inclined from the perpendicular, so that the lower end is towards the north, then strike the poker several times smartly with a large iron hammer, and to a slight extent it will then be found to possess the powers of a magnet. Another method is as follows:--Get an old large iron poker, and a similar pair of tongs, such as may be found forming a part of the set of fire-irons formerly supplied for kitchen use. Fix the poker upright, and hold to it a bar about three inches long of soft steel, which should be about a quarter of an inch broad, but not more than a twentieth of an inch in thickness. Make on one end of the steel a mark, and let that end be held downwards. The steel should not be held to the poker with the hand, but should be suspended on a piece of silk held in the left hand, and so suspended as to touch the poker. Then grasp the tongs a little below the middle with the right hand, and keeping them as nearly vertical as possible, rub the steel bar with the lower end of the tongs, from the marked end of the bar to its upper end about ten times on each side of it. By this means the bar will receive enough magnetism to enable it to lift at the marked end a small steel key. Or if the bar so magnetised be suspended at its centre, and made to rest on a point, the marked end will turn to the north.

Steel fireirons which have remained untouched during the summer period, and have at the same time remained resting on the fender, in an ordinary living-room, will be found after a few months to have become possessed of magnetic properties.

A common sewing needle is readily magnetised by passing, when gently pressed against it, the north pole of a magnet from the eye to the point of the needle. After the end of the needle has been reached, the magnet must not be passed back along it again to the eye, or the effect will be destroyed; but the effect is increased if the magnet is passed several times in succession from the eye to the point. A needle so magnetised may be used in the place of the magnetised wire required for a small Magnetic Wand.

MAGNIFYING PINHOLE.

_See_ "Microscope (Toy)."

MECHANICAL BUCEPHALUS.

_See_ "Pegasus in Flight."

MICROSCOPE (TOY).

Toy microscopes, or miniature microscopes that may be easily made, are of two sorts. The first and simplest is sometimes called the Magnifying Pinhole. Take a blackened card, and make a hole in it with the point of a fine needle. Hold up the card, and look through the hole so made at any small object held at about an inch from the card, and the object so held will appear magnified about ten times. Remove the card from the eye, leaving the object looked at in its former position, and it will then not be seen at all; this is accounted for from the well-known quality of the eye that it is unable unaided to discover a single object not more than an inch away.

Another sort of toy microscope is made out of a thin plate of lead or brass. Bore a hole in it with a fine awl or a large needle, and let a drop of clear water fall into the hole so as to fill it up completely. Then place any object that it is wished to examine below the thin plate, and immediately below the globule of water. Look through the globule, and the object looked at will be seen, apparently magnified about a hundred and fifty times. A full water-bottle also has microscopic powers.

MOCKING CALL.

The Mocking Call is a little instrument by which one may imitate the song of birds, animals, and various other sounds, and is to be made in the following manner:--Cut a small square piece from the green leaf of a common leek, lay it on a table or clean board, and with great care scrape away a piece of the green pulpy substance of the leaf, being very careful on no account to injure the fine outer skin. Place the instrument so made in the roof of the mouth, with that side downwards on which is the outer skin. Press the instrument gently with the tongue into its place, and then blow between the tongue and the upper teeth. At first sounds will be emitted that will not readily be recognised as similar to those of birds or animals, but with practice and patience the barking of a dog, the neighing of a horse, or the notes of many of the song birds, may be successfully imitated. When the Mocking Call is not in use, it should be kept moist by placing it in a glass of water. This toy is useful when used in a ventriloquial entertainment.

MOORISH FORT.

The game of Moorish Fort is a good round game of skill. It is a comparatively new game, and is supplied by the toy-dealers, with rules, at a reasonable price; but as the materials to play the game with may be found in any tolerably extensive collection of toys if supplemented by a fort and a few rods, which can easily be made, some readers of this book may, if unable to purchase the materials, feel inclined to practise their ingenuity in adapting the toys they possess to play the game.

A round fort, constructed in the manner shown in the accompanying woodcut (Fig. 1), is placed in the centre of an ordinary dining-room table. The players should number six or less, and be divided into two sides, each side taking opposite positions; each player should be provided with a small round ball (those supplied with nine-pins do admirably), and the player, armed with a cue about eighteen inches to two feet long (Fig. 2, A), should strike his ball towards the fort. A rest for the cue (Fig. 2, B), with x-piece at the end, of the same length as the cue should also be supplied, to facilitate the striking of the ball when at a distance from the player, as it is to be made a rule that no player may, when playing, place his hands or arms on the table. That side which first gets all its balls into the fort wins, but a code of rules may be drafted embodying these and other regulations at the pleasure of the players.

NAVETTE.

The game of Navette is played with a bridge having numerous arches, each one of which bears a distinctive number, higher or lower, according to the size of the arch and the difficulty of attaining the object of the game, which is bowling discs, or small balls, at the bridge when placed on the floor or on the table, so that the balls may pass under one or other of the arches of the bridge. The players bowl alternately at the bridge, and he who makes the highest score in an agreed number of bowls of the ball wins. The arch-board used in marble games may be utilised for this game.

NINE PINS.

The toy-box containing Nine Pins, for playing the game of that name, together with the requisite number of balls, is to be purchased for a very trifling sum. Inasmuch as both pins and balls have to be turned in a lathe, it is almost impossible for any lad with an ordinary chest of tools to make them for himself, and, indeed, the game of Nine Pins is not a game usually played at by lads of an age able to make their own toys--it is a very small child's game. The game is played in two ways, either by throwing or bowling the balls at the pins, or by attaching a ball to a rope or string suspended from the ceiling, and so swinging the ball at the pins.