Chapter XV: Book VIII: Quadrupeds

_Lib. VIII. Tetrapus_

CHAP. I. WILD BOAR.
CHAP. II. VENISON.
CHAP. III. CHAMOIS, GAZELLE.
CHAP. IV. WILD SHEEP.
CHAP. V. BEEF AND VEAL.
CHAP. VI. KID AND LAMB.
CHAP. VII. PIG.
CHAP. VIII. HARE.
CHAP. IX. DORMOUSE.

I

[329] WILD BOAR IS PREPARED THUS
_APER ITA CONDITUR_

IT IS CLEANED; SPRINKLED WITH SALT AND CRUSHED CUMIN AND THUS LEFT. THE NEXT DAY IT IS PUT INTO THE OVEN; WHEN DONE SEASON WITH CRUSHED PEPPER. A SAUCE FOR BOAR: HONEY [1] BROTH, REDUCED WINE, RAISIN WINE.

[1] Lan., Tor. _vel_ instead of _mel_.

[330] ANOTHER WAY TO PREPARE BOAR
_ALITER IN APRO_

YOU BOIL THE BOAR IN SEA WATER WITH SPRIGS OF LAUREL; WHEN DONE NICE AND SOFT, REMOVE THE SKIN, SERVE WITH SALT, MUSTARD, VINEGAR.

[331] ANOTHER WAY TO COOK [sauce for] BOAR
_ALITER IN APRO_

CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, SEEDLESS MYRTLE BERRIES, CORIANDER, ONIONS; ADD HONEY, WINE, BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL; HEAT AND TIE WITH ROUX. THE BOAR ROASTED IN THE OVEN, IS MASKED WITH THIS SAUCE, WHICH YOU MAY USE FOR ANY KIND OF ROAST GAME [1].

[1] Tor. continues without interruption.

[332] MAKE A HOT SAUCE FOR ROAST BOAR THUS
_JURA FERVENTIA IN APRUM ASSUM FACIES SIC_ [1]

CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, MINT, THYME, SATURY, SAFFRON, TOASTED NUTS, OR TOASTED ALMONDS, HONEY, WINE, BROTH, VINEGAR AND A LITTLE OIL.

[1] Tor. _In aprum uerò assum_, indicating, perhaps,
that ordinary pork also was prepared "boar style." Cf.
{Rx} No. 362.

[333] ANOTHER HOT SAUCE FOR BOAR
_ALITER IN APRUM ASSUM IURA FERVENTIA_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, MINT, THYME, TOASTED NUTS, WINE, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND A LITTLE OIL. WHEN THE SIMPLE BROTH [1] IS BOILING INCORPORATE THE CRUSHED THINGS AND STIR WITH AN AROMATIC BOUQUET OF ONIONS AND RUE. IF YOU DESIRE TO MAKE THIS A RICHER SAUCE, TIE IT WITH WHITES OF EGG, STIRRING THE LIQUID EGG IN GENTLY. SPRINKLE WITH A LITTLE PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] Presumably the broth or stock in which the meat was
roasted or braised.

[334] SAUCE FOR BOILED BOAR
_IUS IN APRUM ELIXUM_

REAL SAUCE FOR BOILED BOAR IS COMPOSED IN THIS MANNER [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, SILPHIUM, ORIGANY, NUTS, FIGDATES, MUSTARD, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL.

[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.

[335] COLD SAUCE FOR BOILED BOAR [1]
_IUS FRIGIDUM IN APRUM ELIXUM_

PEPPER, CUMIN, LOVAGE, CRUSHED CORIANDER SEED, DILL SEED, CELERY SEED, THYME, ORIGANY, LITTLE ONION, HONEY, VINEGAR, MUSTARD, BROTH AND OIL.

[1] {Rx} No. 336 precedes this formula in Tor.

[336] ANOTHER COLD SAUCE FOR BOILED BOAR
_ALITER IUS FRIGIDUM IN APRUM ELIXUM_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, DILL SEED, THYME, ORIGANY, LITTLE SILPHIUM, RATHER MORE MUSTARD SEED, ADD PURE WINE, SOME GREEN HERBS, A LITTLE ONION, CRUSHED NUTS FROM THE PONTUS, OR ALMONDS, DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, SOME MORE PURE WINE, COLOR WITH REDUCED MUST [and add] BROTH AND OIL [1].

[1] Strongly resembling our _vinaigrette_.

[337] ANOTHER [sauce] FOR BOAR
_ALITER [ius] IN APRO_

CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, CELERY SEED, LASER ROOT, CUMIN, FENNEL SEED, RUE, BROTH, WINE, RAISIN WINE; HEAT, WHEN DONE TIE WITH ROUX; COVER THE MEAT WITH THIS SAUCE SO AS TO PENETRATE THE MEAT AND SERVE.

[338] SHOULDER OF BOAR IS STUFFED IN THIS MANNER
_PERNA APRUNA ITA IMPLETUR_ [1]

LOOSEN THE MEAT FROM THE BONES BY MEANS OF A WOODEN STICK IN ORDER TO FILL THE CAVITY LEFT BY THE BONES WITH DRESSING WHICH IS INTRODUCED THROUGH A FUNNEL. [The dressing season with] CRUSHED PEPPER, LAUREL BERRIES AND RUE; IF YOU LIKE, ADD LASER, THE BEST KIND OF BROTH, REDUCED MUST AND SPRINKLE WITH FRESH OIL. WHEN THE FILLING IS DONE, TIE THE PARTS THUS STUFFED IN LINEN, PLACE THEM IN THE STOCK POT IN WHICH THEY ARE TO BE COOKED AND BOIL THEM IN SEA WATER, WITH A SPRIG OF LAUREL AND DILL [2].

[1] G.-V. _Terentina_, referring to a place in the
Campus Martius, where the _ludi seculares_ were
celebrated. Tor. _recentia_, fresh.

[2] The dressing consisted principally of pork or veal
pounded fine, seasoned as directed above, and tied with
eggs, as is often prescribed by Apicius.

To verify how little high class cookery methods have
changed consult one of the foremost of modern
authorities, Auguste Escoffier, of the Carlton and Ritz
hotels, London and Paris, who in his "Guide Culinaire"
presents this dish under its ancient Italian name of
_Zampino_.

II

VENISON [Stag]
_IN CERVO_

[339] SAUCE FOR STAG
_IUS IN CERVUM_

CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY [1] ORIGANY, CELERY SEED, LASER ROOT, FENNEL SEED, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, WINE [2] RAISIN WINE AND A LITTLE OIL. WHEN BOILING BIND WITH ROUX; THE COOKED MEAT IMMERSE IN THIS SAUCE [braise] TO PENETRATE AND TO SOFTEN, AND SERVE. FOR BROAD HORN DEER AS WELL AS FOR OTHER VENISON FOLLOW SIMILAR METHODS AND USE THE SAME CONDIMENTS.

[1] Tor. _carenum_; Hum. _legendum: careum_.

[2] Wanting in Tor.

[340] ANOTHER WAY [1]
_ALITER_

PARBOIL AND BRAISE THE VENISON. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED, MOISTEN WITH HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL; HEAT, BIND WITH ROUX AND POUR OVER THE ROAST.

[1] Tor. Another little sauce for venison.

[341] VENISON SAUCE
_IUS IN CERVO_

MIX PEPPER, LOVAGE, ONION, ORIGANY, NUTS, FIGDATES, HONEY, BROTH, MUSTARD, VINEGAR, OIL [1].

[1] Resembling a _vinaigrette_, except for the nuts and
dates.

[342] PREPARATION OF VENISON
_CERVINÆ CONDITURA_

PEPPER, CUMIN, CONDIMENTS, PARSLEY, ONION, RUE, HONEY, BROTH, MINT, RAISIN WINE, REDUCED WINE, AND A LITTLE OIL; BIND WITH ROUX WHEN BOILING.

[343] HOT SAUCE FOR VENISON
_IURA FERVENTIA IN CERVO_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, CUMIN, TOASTED NUTS OR ALMONDS, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, A LITTLE OIL; ADD BROTH AND STIR WELL.

[344] MARINADE FOR ROAST VENISON
_EMBAMMA [1] IN CERVINAM ASSAM_

PEPPER, NARD LEAVES, CELERY SEED, DRY ONIONS, GREEN RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, ADD DATES, RAISINS AND OIL.

[1] Tor. _Intinctus_, same; a _marinade_, a pickle or
sauce in which to preserve or to flavor raw meat or
fish.

[345] ANOTHER HOT SAUCE FOR VENISON
_ALITER IN CERVUM ASSUM IURA FERVENTIA_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, STEWED DAMASCUS PRUNES, WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL; STIR WITH A FAGOT OF LEEKS AND SATURY [1].

[1] A fagot of herbs; regarding this method of
flavoring. Cf. notes to {Rx} No. 277 _seq._

A sauce resembling our Cumberland, very popular with
venison which is sweetened with currant jelly instead of
the above prunes.

III

CHAMOIS, GAZELLE
_IN CAPREA_

[346] SAUCE FOR WILD GOAT
_IUS IN CAPREA_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CUMIN, PARSLEY, RUE SEED, HONEY, MUSTARD, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL.

[347] SAUCE FOR ROAST WILD GOAT
_IUS IN CAPREA ASSA_

PEPPER, HERBS, RUE, ONION, HONEY, BROTH, RAISIN WINE, A LITTLE OIL, BIND WITH ROUX.

[347a] STILL ANOTHER
_ALITER_

AS ABOVE IS MADE WITH PARSLEY AND MARJORAM [1].

[1] Wanting in G.-V.

[347b] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR WILD GOAT
_ALITER IUS IN CAPREA_

PEPPER, SPICES, PARSLEY, A LITTLE ORIGANY, RUE, BROTH, HONEY, RAISIN WINE, AND A LITTLE OIL; BIND WITH ROUX [1].

[1] Wanting in Tor.

IV

WILD SHEEP
_IN OVIFERO (HOC EST OVIS SILVATICA)_ [1]

[348] SAUCE FOR MOUNTAIN SHEEP
_IUS IN OVIFERO FERVENS_

[THAT IS, (ROAST) THE MEAT, PREPARE A SAUCE OF] [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, DRY MINT [3], THYME, SILPHIUM, MOISTEN WITH WINE, ADD STEWED DAMASCUS PRUNES, HONEY, WINE, BROTH, VINEGAR, RAISIN WINE,--ENOUGH TO COLOR--AND STIR WITH A WHIP OF ORIGANY AND DRY MINT [3].

[1] G.-V., List. _in ovi fero_; Dann. "wild eggs," i.e.,
the eggs of game birds, and he comes to the conclusion
that game birds themselves are meant to be used in this
formula, as no reference to "eggs" is made.

There can be no doubt but what this formula deals with
the preparation of sheep; Torinus says expressly:
_oviferum, hoc est, carnem ovis sylvestris_--the meat of
sheep from the woods, mountain sheep. _Ferum_ is "wild,"
"game," but it also means "pregnant." For this double
sense the formula may be interpreted as dealing with
either wild sheep, or with pregnant sheep, or, more
probably, with unborn baby lamb, which in antiquity as
today is often killed principally for its skin.

[2] Tor.

[3] Mint is still associated with lamb; the above sauce
appears to be merely an elaborate Roman ancestor of our
modern mint sauce, served with lamb, the chief
ingredients of which are mint, vinegar and sugar, served
both hot and cold.

[349] SAUCE FOR ALL KINDS OF GAME, BOILED OR ROAST
_IUS IN VENATIONIBUS OMNIBUS ELIXIS ET ASSIS_ [1]

8 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, RUE, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, JUNIPER, THYME, DRY MINT, 6 SCRUPLES IN WEIGHT [each] 3 SCRUPLES OF FLEA-BANE; REDUCE ALL THIS TO THE FINEST POWDER, PUT IT TOGETHER IN A VESSEL WITH SUFFICIENT HONEY AND USE IT WITH VINEGAR AND GARUM.

[1] Tor. _Jusculum omni venationi competens_.

[350] COLD SAUCE FOR WILD SHEEP
_IUS FRIGIDUM IN OVIFERO_ [1]

PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, CUMIN, CRUSHED TOASTED NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND OIL; SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER.

[1] List. _omni fero_; which Dann. interprets, "All kind
of game." Cf. note 1 to {Rx} No. 348.

V

BEEF OR VEAL
_BUBULA SIVE VITELLINA_

[351] VEAL STEAK
_VITELLINA FRICTA_ [1]

[FOR A SAUCE WITH FRIED BEEF OR VEAL TAKE] [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, CUMIN, ORIGANY, DRY ONION, RAISINS, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH, OIL, AND REDUCED MUST.

[1] Evidently a beef or veal steak _sauté_. Beef did not
figure very heavily on the dietary of the ancients in
contrasts to present modes which make beef the most
important meat, culinarily speaking. The above sauce,
save for the raisins and the honey, resembles the modern
_Bordelaise_, often served with beef steaks _sauté_, in
contrast to the grilled steaks which are served with
_maître d'hôtel_ butter.

[352] VEAL OR BEEF WITH LEEKS
_VITULINAM [1] SIVE BULULAM CUM PORRIS_

[or] WITH QUINCES [2] OR WITH ONIONS, OR WITH DASHEENS [3] [use] BROTH, PEPPER, LASER AND A LITTLE OIL.

[1] G.-V. same as _vitellinam_.

[2] Tor. _cydoniis_; List. _succidaneis_.

[3] Cf. {Rx} No. 332 _et al._

[353] FRICASSÉE OF VEAL
_IN VITULINAM ELIXAM_

CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED, MOISTEN WITH HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL; HEAT, BIND WITH ROUX AND COVER THE MEAT.

[354] ANOTHER VEAL FRICASSÉE
_ALITER IN VITULINA EXLIXA_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, FENNEL SEED, ORIGANY, NUTS, FIGDATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, MUSTARD AND OIL.

VI

KID OR LAMB
_IN HÆDO VEL AGNO_

[355] DAINTY DISHES OF KID OR OF LAMB
_COPADIA HÆDINA SIVE AGNINA_

COOK WITH PEPPER AND BROTH, ALSO WITH VARIOUS ORDINARY BEANS [1] BROTH, PEPPER AND LASER, CUMIN, DUMPLINGS [2] AND A LITTLE OIL [3].

[1] _cum faseolis_, green string beans.

[2] Tor. _imbrato_; G.-V. _inbracto_, broken bread,
regular dumplings.

[3] Lamb and beans is a favorite combination, as in the
French _haricot_, made with white beans, or boiled lamb
with fresh string beans, quite a modern dish. Torinus
omits the cumin, which is quite characteristic.

[356] ANOTHER LAMB STEW
_ALITER HÆDINAM SIVE AGNINAM EXCALDATAM_

PUT [pieces of] KID OR LAMB IN THE STEW POT WITH CHOPPED ONION AND CORIANDER. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, AND COOK WITH BROTH OIL AND WINE. PUT IN A DISH AND TIE WITH ROUX [1].

[1] It appears that the binding should be done before
the stew is dished out; but this sentence illustrates
the consummate art of Apicius. The good cook carefully
separates the meat (as it is cooked) from the sauce,
eliminates impurities, binds and strains it and puts the
meat back into the finished sauce. This is the ideal way
of making a stew which evidently was known to Apicius.

[357] ANOTHER LAMB STEW
_ALITER HÆDINAM SIVE AGNINAM EXCALDATAM_

ADD TO THE PARBOILED MEAT THE RAW HERBS THAT HAVE BEEN CRUSHED IN THE MORTAR AND COOK IT. GOAT MEAT IS COOKED LIKEWISE.

[358] BROILED KID OR LAMB STEAK
_HÆDUM SIVE AGNUM ASSUM_

KID AFTER BEING COOKED IN BROTH AND OIL IS SLICED AND MARINATED [1] WITH CRUSHED PEPPER, LASER, BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL. IT IS THEN GRILLED ON THE BROILER AND SERVED WITH GRAVY. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE UP.

[1] The marinade is used to make the gravy.

[359] ROAST KID OR LAMB
_ALITER HÆDUM SIVE AGNUM ASSUM_

[LET US ROAST THE KID OR LAMB, ADDING] [1] HALF AN OUNCE OF PEPPER, 6 SCRUPLES OF FOALBIT [2] A LITTLE GINGER, 6 SCRUPLES OF PARSLEY, A LITTLE LASER, A PINT OF BEST BROTH AND A SPOONFUL OIL [3].

[1] Tor.

[2] _Asarum_; Tor. _aseros_; List. _asareos_--the herb
foalbit, foalfoot, wild spikenard.

[3] Tor. continues without interruption.

[360] STUFFED BONED KID OR LAMB
_HÆDUS SIVE AGNUS SYRINGIATUS_ [1]

MILK-FED [2] KID OR LAMB IS CAREFULLY BONED THROUGH THE THROAT SO AS TO CREATE A PAUNCH OR BAG; THE INTESTINES ARE PRESERVED WHOLE IN A MANNER THAT ONE CAN BLOW OR INFLATE THEM AT THE HEAD IN ORDER TO EXPEL THE EXCREMENTS AT THE OTHER END; THE BODY IS WASHED CAREFULLY AND IS FILLED WITH A LIQUID DRESSING. THEREUPON TIE IT CAREFULLY AT THE SHOULDERS, PUT IT INTO THE ROASTING PAN, BASTE WELL. WHEN DONE, BOIL THE GRAVY WITH MILK AND PEPPER, PREVIOUSLY CRUSHED, AND BROTH, REDUCED WINE, A LITTLE REDUCED MUST AND ALSO OIL; AND TO THE BOILING GRAVY ADD ROUX. TO PLAY SAFE PUT THE ROAST IN A NETTING, BAG OR LITTLE BASKET AND CAREFULLY TIE TOGETHER, ADD A LITTLE SALT TO THE BOILING GRAVY. AFTER THIS HAS BOILED WELL THREE TIMES, TAKE THE MEAT OUT, BOIL THE BROTH OVER AGAIN [to reduce it] INCORPORATE WITH THE ABOVE DESCRIBED LIQUOR, ADDING THE NECESSARY SEASONING.

[1] "Hollowed out like a pipe."

[2] G.-V. _syringiatus_ (_id est mammotestus_). Tor.
_mammocestis_. We are guessing.

[3] We would call this a galantine of lamb if such a
dish were made of lamb today.

This article, like the following appears to be a
contraction of two different formulæ.

[361] STUFFED KID OR LAMB ANOTHER WAY
_ALITER HÆDUS SIVE AGNUS SYRINGIATUS_

KID OR LAMB IS THUS PREPARED AND SEASONED: TAKE [1] 1 PINT MILK, 4 OUNCES HONEY, 1 OUNCE PEPPER, A LITTLE SALT, A LITTLE LASER, GRAVY [of the lamb] 8 OUNCES CRUSHED DATES, A SPOONFUL OIL, A LITTLE BROTH, A SPOONFUL HONEY [2] A PINT OF GOOD WINE AND A LITTLE ROUX.

[1] Tor.

[2] G.-V.

[362] THE RAW KID OR LAMB [1]
_HÆDUS SIVE AGNUS CRUDUS_

IS RUBBED WITH OIL AND PEPPER AND SPRINKLED WITH PLENTY OF CLEAN SALT AND CORIANDER SEED, PLACED IN THE OVEN, SERVED ROAST.

[1] It is quite evident that this sentence belongs to
the preceding formula; but all the texts make a distinct
separation.

[363] KID OR LAMB À LA TARPEIUS [1]
_HÆDUM SIVE AGNUM TARPEIANUM_

BEFORE COOKING THE LAMB TRUSS IT PROPERLY AND [marinate it in] PEPPER, RUE, SATURY, ONIONS, AND A LITTLE THYME AND BROTH. PLACE THE ROAST IN A PAN WITH OIL, BASTE WELL WHILE IN THE OVEN, WHEN COOKED THOROUGHLY, FILL THE PAN WITH CRUSHED SATURY, ONIONS, RUE, DATES, BROTH, WINE, REDUCED WINE, AND OIL; WHEN THIS GRAVY IS WELL COOKED [strain] PUT IT UP IN A DISH, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] Tor. _Tatarpeianum_. Tarpeius, family name of
Romans. Humelberg thinks this dish is named for the
people who dwelled on Mount Tarpeius. This was the
Tarpeian Rock from which malefactors were thrown.

[364] KID OR LAMB PARTHIAN STYLE
_HÆDUM SIVE AGNUM PARTHICUM_

PUT [the roast] IN THE OVEN; CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, ONION, SATURY, STONED DAMASCUS PLUMS, A LITTLE LASER, WINE, BROTH AND OIL. HOT WINE IS SERVED ON THE SIDE AND TAKEN WITH VINEGAR.

[365] CREAMED KID FLAVORED WITH LAUREL [1]
_HÆDUM LAUREATUM EX LACTE_

[The kid] DRESS AND PREPARE, BONE, REMOVE THE INTESTINES WITH THE RENNET AND WASH. PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE, LASER ROOT, 2 LAUREL BERRIES, A LITTLE CHAMOMILE AND 2 OR 3 BRAINS, ALL OF WHICH CRUSH. MOISTEN WITH BROTH AND SEASON WITH SALT. OVER THIS MIXTURE STRAIN 2 PINTS [2] OF MILK, 2 LITTLE SPOONS OF HONEY. WITH THIS FORCEMEAT STUFF THE INTESTINES AND WRAP THEM AROUND THE KID. COVER THE ROAST WITH CAUL AND PARCHMENT PAPER TIGHTENED WITH SKEWERS, AND PLACE IT IN THE ROASTING PAN, ADDING BROTH, OIL AND WINE. WHEN HALF DONE, CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, MOISTEN WITH THE ROAST'S OWN GRAVY AND A LITTLE REDUCED MUST; PUT THIS BACK INTO THE PAN AND WHEN THE ROAST IS DONE COMPLETELY GARNISH IT AND BIND [the gravy] WITH ROUX AND SERVE.

[1] Dann. thinks _laureatus_ stands for the best, the
prize-winning meat, but the laurel may refer to the
flavor used.

List. remarks that cow's milk was very scarce in Italy;
likewise was goat's and sheep's milk; hence it is
possible that the kid was cooked with its mother's own
milk.

[2] pints--_sextarii_.

VII

PIG
_IN PORCELLO_

[366] SUCKLING PIG STUFFED TWO WAYS
_PORCELLUM FARSILEM DUOBUS GENERIBUS_

PREPARE, REMOVE THE ENTRAILS BY THE THROAT BEFORE THE CARCASS HARDENS [immediately after killing]. MAKE AN OPENING UNDER THE EAR, FILL AN OX BLADDER WITH TARENTINE [1] SAUSAGE MEAT AND ATTACH A TUBE SUCH AS THE BIRD KEEPER USES TO THE NECK OF THE BLADDER AND SQUEEZE THE DRESSING INTO THE EAR AS MUCH AS IT WILL TAKE TO FILL THE BODY. THEN SEAL THE OPENING WITH PARCHMENT, CLOSE SECURELY [with skewers] AND PREPARE [the roast for the oven].

[1] Tor. _impensam Tarentinam_; G.-V. _Terentinam_.

The birdkeeper's tube may be an instrument for the
cramming of fowl.

[366a] THE OTHER DRESSING IS MADE THUS:

CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, LASER ROOT, MOISTEN WITH A LITTLE BROTH, ADD COOKED BRAINS, RAW EGGS, COOKED SPELT, GRAVY OF THE PIG, SMALL BIRDS (IF ANY) NUTS, WHOLE PEPPER, AND SEASON WITH BROTH. STUFF THE PIG, CLOSE THE OPENING WITH PARCHMENT AND SKEWERS AND PUT IT IN THE OVEN. WHEN DONE, DRESS AND GARNISH VERY NICELY, GLAZE THE BODY AND SERVE.

[367] ANOTHER SUCKLING PIG
_ALITER PORCELLUM_

SALT, CUMIN, LASER; ADD SAUSAGE MEAT. DILUTE WITH BROTH [1] REMOVE THE WOMB OF THE PIG SO THAT NO PART OF IT REMAINS INSIDE. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, ADD WINE [2] BRAINS, MIX IN 2 EGGS, FILL THE [previously] PARBOILED PIG WITH THIS FORCEMEAT, CLOSE TIGHT, PLACE IN A BASKET AND IMMERSE IN THE BOILING STOCK POT. WHEN DONE REMOVE THE SKEWERS BUT IN A MANNER THAT THE GRAVY REMAINS INSIDE. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER, SERVE.

[1] G.-V. treats the following as a separate article
under the heading of _porcellum liquaminatum_.

[2] G.-V. _unum_ (one brain) instead of _uinum_.

[368] STUFFED BOILED SUCKLING PIG
_PORCELLUM ELIXUM FARSILEM_

REMOVE THE WOMB OF THE PIG. PARBOIL. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH BROTH. ADD COOKED BRAINS, AS MUCH AS IS NEEDED [1] LIKEWISE DISSOLVE EGGS, [add] BROTH TO TASTE, MAKE A SAUSAGE [of this forcemeat] FILL THE PIG WHICH HAS BEEN PARBOILED AND RINSED WITH BROTH. TIE THE PIG SECURELY IN A BASKET, IMMERSE IN THE BOILING STOCK POT. REMOVE WHEN DONE, WIPE CLEAN CAREFULLY, SERVE WITHOUT PEPPER.

[1] To have a forcemeat of the right consistency.

[369] ROAST SUCKLING PIG WITH HONEY
_PORCELLUM ASSUM TRACTOMELINUM_ [1]

EMPTY THE PIG BY THE NECK, CLEAN AND DRY, CRUSH ONE OUNCE PEPPER, HONEY AND WINE, PLACE [this in a sauce pan and] HEAT; NEXT BREAK DRY TOAST [2] AND MIX WITH THE THINGS IN THE SAUCE PAN; STIR WITH A WHIP OF FRESH LAUREL TWIGS [3] SO THAT THE PASTE IS NICE AND SMOOTH UNTIL SUFFICIENTLY COOKED. THIS DRESSING FILL INTO THE PIG, WRAP IN PARCHMENT, PLACE IN THE OVEN [roast slowly, when done, glaze with honey] GARNISH NICELY AND SERVE.

[1] treated with honey.

[2] Tor. _tactam siccatam_ for _tractam_.

[3] Again this very subtle method of flavoring, so often
referred to. This time it is a laurel whip. Cf. {Rx}
Nos. 277 _seq._, 345, 369, 385.

[370] MILK-FED PIG, COLD, APICIAN SAUCE
_PORCELLUM LACTE PASTUM ELIXUM CALIDUM IURE FRIGIDO CRUDO APICIANO_

SERVE BOILED MILK-FED PIG EITHER HOT OR COLD WITH THIS SAUCE [1] IN A MORTAR, PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER SEED, MINT, RUE, AND CRUSH IT. MOISTEN WITH BROTH. ADD HONEY, WINE AND BROTH. THE BOILED PIG IS WIPED OFF HOT WITH A CLEAN TOWEL, [cooled off] COVERED WITH THE SAUCE AND SERVED [2].

[1] Tor.

[2] This sentence wanting in Tor.

[371] SUCKLING PIG À LA VITELLIUS [1]
_PORCELLUM VITELLIANUM_

SUCKLING PIG CALLED VITELLIAN STYLE IS PREPARED THUS [2] GARNISH THE PIG LIKE WILD BOAR [3] SPRINKLE WITH SALT, ROAST IN OVEN. IN THE MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, WINE AND RAISIN WINE TO TASTE, PUT THIS IN A SAUCE PAN, ADDING VERY LITTLE OIL, HEAT; THE ROASTING PIG BASTE WITH THIS IN A MANNER SO THAT [the aroma] WILL PENETRATE THE SKIN.

[1] Named for Vitellius, Roman emperor.

[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.

[3] i.e. marinated with raw vegetables, wine, spices,
etc. Cf. {Rx} Nos. 329-30.

[372] SUCKLING PIG À LA FLACCUS
_PORCELLUM FLACCIANUM_ [1]

THE PIG IS GARNISHED LIKE WILD BOAR [2] SPRINKLE WITH SALT, PLACE IN THE OVEN. WHILE BEING DONE PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED, LASER ROOT, GREEN RUE, AND CRUSH IT, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, WINE AND RAISIN WINE TO TASTE, PUT THIS IN A SAUCE PAN, ADDING A LITTLE OIL, HEAT, BIND WITH ROUX. THE ROAST PIG, FREE FROM BONES, SPRINKLE WITH POWDERED CELERY SEED AND SERVE.

[1] List. named for Flaccus Hordeonius, (_puto_).
Flaccus was a rather common Roman family name.

[2] Cf. note 3 to {Rx} No. 371, also {Rx} Nos. 329-30.
Lister is thoroughly puzzled by this procedure, but the
problem is very simple: just treat the pig like wild
boar.

[373] SUCKLING PIG, LAUREL FLAVOR
_PORCELLUM LAUREATUM_

THE PIG IS BONED AND GARNISHED WITH A LITTLE WINE SAUCE [1] PARBOIL WITH GREEN LAUREL IN THE CENTER [2] AND PLACE IT IN THE OVEN TO BE ROASTED SUFFICIENTLY. MEANWHILE PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED, LASER ROOT, AND LAUREL BERRIES, CRUSH THEM, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, WINE AND RAISIN WINE TO TASTE. [Put this in a sauce pan and heat] BIND [with roux; untie the pig] REMOVE THE LAUREL LEAVES; INCORPORATE THE JUICE OF THE BONES [from which a gravy has been made in the meantime] AND SERVE.

[1] marinate in the ordinary way with _{oe}nogarum_ as
the dominant flavor.

[2] It is presumed that the boned pig is rolled and
tied, with the leaves in the center.

[374] SUCKLING PIG À LA FRONTO [1]
_PORCELLUM FRONTINIANUM_

BONE THE PIG, PARBOIL, GARNISH; IN A SAUCE PAN. ADD BROTH, WINE, BIND. WHEN HALF DONE, ADD A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND DILL, SOME REDUCED MUST. WHEN COOKED WIPE THE PIG CLEAN, LET IT DRIP OFF; SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER, SERVE.

[1] List. Probably named for Julius Fronto, _prætor
urbanus_ under Vitellius. Cornelius Fronto was an orator
and author at the time of emperor Hadrian. Cf. {Rx} No.
246. G.-V. Frontinianus.

[375] SUCKLING PIG STEWED IN WINE
_PORCELLUM {OE}NOCOCTUM_ [1]

SCALD [parboil] THE PIG [and] MARINATE [2] PLACE IN A SAUCE PAN [with] OIL, BROTH, WINE AND WATER, TIE A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND CORIANDER; [cook (in the oven)] WHEN HALF DONE COLOR WITH REDUCED MUST. IN THE MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, ORIGANY, CELERY SEED, LASER ROOT AND CRUSH THEM, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, ADD THE PIG'S OWN GRAVY AND RAISIN WINE TO TASTE. ADD THIS [to the meat in the sauce pan] AND LET IT BOIL. WHEN BOILING BIND WITH ROUX. THE PIG, PLACED ON A PLATTER, MASK [with the sauce] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] Tor. _vino elixatus_; G.-V. _{oe}nococtum_.

[2] It is presumed that the pig is prepared for coction
as in the foregoing, namely cleaned, washed, boned, etc.
This also applies to the succeeding recipes of pig.

[376] PIG À LA CELSINUS [1]
_PORCELLUM CELSINIANUM_

PREPARE [as above] INJECT [the following dressing made of] PEPPER, RUE, ONIONS, SATURY, THE PIG'S OWN GRAVY [and] EGGS THROUGH THE EAR [2] AND OF PEPPER, BROTH AND A LITTLE WINE [make a sauce which is served] IN THE SAUCE BOAT [3]; AND ENJOY IT.

[1] Tor. _Cæsianus_; Tac. _cesinianum_; G.-V.
_Celsinianum_. Lister goes far out of his way to prove
that the man for whom this dish was named was Celsinus.
He cites a very amusing bit of ancient humor by Petrus
Lambecius, given below.

[2] Really a dressing in a liquid state when raw, a
custard syringed into the carcass, which congeals during
coction. Eggs must be in proper proportion to the other
liquids. The pig thus filled is either steamed, roasted
or baked, well protected by buttered or oiled paper--all
of which the ancient author failed to state, as a matter
of course.

[3] _acetabulum._

* * * * *

"The Porker's Last Will and Testament"
by Petrus Lambecius

(V. Barnab. Brissonium de Formulis lib. VII, p. 677)
[ex Lister, 1705, p. 196; Lister, 1709, p. 236].

"I, M. Grunter Corocotta Porker, do hereby make my last
will and testament. Incapable of writing in my own hand,
I have dictated what is to be set down:

"The Chief Cook sayeth: 'Come here, you--who has upset
this house, you nuissance, you porker! I'll deprive you
of your life this day!'

"Corocotta Porker sayeth: 'What, perchance, have I done?
In what way, please, have I sinned? Have I with my feet
perhaps smashed your crockery? I beg of you, Mr. Cook, I
entreat you, if such be the case, kindly grant the
supplicant a reprieve.'

"The Chief Cook sayeth: 'Go over there, boy! Fetch me
from the kitchen that slaughtering-knife. I'm just
itching to give this porker a blood-bath!'

"Mr. Porker, realizing that this is the season when
cabbage sprouts are abundant, and visualizing himself
potted and peppered, and furthermore seeing that death
is inevitable, asks for time and begs of the cook
whether it was possible to make a will. This granted, he
calls out with a loud voice to his parents to save for
them the food that was to have been his own in the
future, to wit:

"To my father, Mr. Genuine Bacon-Fat, appointed by me
in my last will I give and bequeath: thirty measures of
acorns; and to my mother, Mrs. Old-Timer Sow, appointed
by me in my last will, I give and bequeath: forty
measures of Spartan wheat; and to my sister, Cry-Baby,
appointed by me in my last will, whose wedding, alas! I
cannot attend, I give and bequeath: thirty measures of
barley; and of my nobler parts and property I give and
bequeath, to the cobbler: my bristles; to the brawlers,
my jaw-bones; to the deaf, my ears; to the shyster
lawyers, my tongue; to the cow-herds, my intestines; to
the sausage makers, my thighs; to the ladies, my
tenderloins; to the boys, my bladder; to the girls, my
little pig's tail; to the dancers, my muscles; to the
runners and hunters, my knuckles; to the hired man, my
hoofs; and to the cook--though not to be named--I give
and bequeath and transmit my belly and appendage which I
have dragged with me from the rotten oak bottoms to the
pig's sty, for him to tie around his neck and to hang
himself with.

"I wish to erect a monument to myself, inscribed with
golden letters: 'M. Grunter Corocotta Porker lived
nine-hundred-and-ninety-nine years, and had he lived
another half year, a thousand years would have been
nearly completed.'

"I ask of you who love me best, you who live like me, I
ask you: will not my name remain to be eulogized in all
eternity? if you only will prepare my body properly and
flavor it well with good condiments, nuts, pepper and
honey!

"My master and my relatives, all of you who have
witnessed this execution of my last will and testament,
you are requested to sign.

"(Signed) Hard Sausage
Match Maker
Fat Bacon
Bacon Rind
Celsinus
Meat Ball
Sprout Cabbage."

* * * * *

Thus far the story by Petrus Lambecius. The fifth of the signatories of the Porker's Testament is Celsinus; and since the other names are fictitious it is quite possible that Lambecius had a special purpose in pointing out the man for whom the dish, Porcellus Celsinianus,--Suckling Pig à la Celsinus--was named.

Celsinus was counsellor for Aurelianus, the emperor.

[377] ROAST PIG
_PORCELLUM ASSUM_

CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, SATURY, ONIONS, HARD YOLKS OF EGG, BROTH, WINE, OIL, SPICES; BOIL THESE INGREDIENTS, POUR OVER THE [roast] PIG IN THE SAUCE PAN AND SERVE.

[378] PIG À LA JARDINIÈRE
_PORCELLUM HORTOLANUM_ [1]

THE PIG IS BONED THROUGH THE THROAT AND FILLED WITH QUENELLES OF CHICKEN FORCEMEAT, FINELY CUT [roast] THRUSHES, FIG-PECKERS, LITTLE SAUSAGE CAKES, MADE OF THE PIG'S MEAT, LUCANIAN SAUSAGE, STONED DATES, EDIBLE BULBS [glazed onions] SNAILS TAKEN OUT OF THE SHELL [and poached] MALLOWS, LEEKS, BEETS, CELERY, COOKED SPROUTS, CORIANDER, WHOLE PEPPER, NUTS, 15 EGGS POURED OVER, BROTH, WHICH IS SPICED WITH PEPPER, AND DILUTED WITH 3 EGGS; THEREUPON SEW IT TIGHT, STIFFEN, AND ROAST IN THE OVEN. WHEN DONE, OPEN THE BACK [of the pig] AND POUR OVER THE FOLLOWING SAUCE: CRUSHED PEPPER, RUE, BROTH, RAISIN WINE, HONEY AND A LITTLE OIL, WHICH WHEN BOILING IS TIED WITH ROUX [2].

[1] Tor. _Hortulanus_; Gardener's style, the French
equivalent _Jardinière_, a very common name for all
dishes containing young vegetables. However, in the
above rich formula there is very little to remind us of
the gardener's style, excepting the last part of the
formula, enumerating a number of fresh vegetables. It is
unthinkable for any gourmet to incorporate these with
the rich dressing. The vegetables should be used as a
garnish for the finished roast. This leads us to believe
that the above is really two distinct formulæ, or that
the vegetables were intended for garniture.

[2] This extraordinary and rich dressing, perfectly
feasible and admirable when compared with our own
"Toulouse," "Financière," "Chipolata," can be palatable
only when each component part is cooked separately
before being put into the pig. The eggs must be whipped
and diluted with broth and poured over the filling to
serve as binder. The pig must be parboiled before
filling, and the final cooking or roasting must be done
very slowly and carefully--procedure not stated by the
original which it takes for granted.

[379] COLD SAUCE FOR BOILED SUCKLING PIG
_JUS PORRO _[1]_ FRIGIDUM IN PORCELLUM ELIXUM_

CRUSH PEPPER, CARRAWAY, DILL, LITTLE ORIGANY, PINE NUTS, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, BROTH [2], DATE WINE, HONEY, PREPARED MUSTARD; SPRINKLE WITH A LITTLE OIL, PEPPER, AND SERVE.

[1] Tor. only; _porrò_ indicating that the sauce may
also be served with the foregoing. Wanting in List. _et
al._

[2] Wanting in Tor.

[380] SMOKED PIG À LA TRAJANUS
_PORCELLUM TRAIANUM_ [1]

MAKE THUS: BONE THE PIG, TREAT IT AS FOR STEWING IN WINE [{Rx} No. 375, i.e. marinate for some time in spices, herbs and wine] THEREUPON HANG IT IN THE SMOKE HOUSE [2] NEXT BOIL IT IN SALT WATER AND SERVE THUS [3] ON A LARGE PLATTER [4].

[1] Tor. and Tac. _traganum_.

[2] _ad fumum suspendes_; G.-V. _et adpendeas, et
quantum adpendeas, tantum salis in ollam
mittes_--passage wanting in other texts, meaning,
probably, that the more pigs are used for smoking the
more salt must be used for pickling which is a matter of
course, or, the heavier the pig, ...

[3] Tor. _atque ita in lance efferes_; Tac. & _sic eum
..._; G.-V. _et siccum in lance inferes_.

[4] Hum. _salso recente_, with fresh salt pork. Tor.
_cum salsamento istoc recenti_ and Tor. continues
without interruption, indicating, perhaps, that the
following formula is to be served, or treated (boiled)
like the above.

[381] MILK-FED PIG
_IN PORCELLO LACTANTE_ [1]

ONE OUNCE OF PEPPER, A PINT OF WINE, A RATHER LARGE GLASS OF THE BEST OIL, A GLASS OF BROTH [2], AND RATHER LESS THAN A GLASS OF VINEGAR [3].

[1] G.-V. _lactans_, suckling, milk-fed; other texts:
_lactente_: Dann. wild boar.

[2] wanting in Tac. and Tor.

[3] a variant of the foregoing, a mild pickling solution
for extremely young suckling pigs, prior to their
smoking or boiling, or both, which the original does not
state.

Schuch and his disciple Danneil, have inserted here
seven more pork formulæ (Sch. p. 179, {Rx} Nos. 388-394)
taken from the Excerpts of Vinidarius, found at the
conclusion of the Apicius formulæ.

VIII

HARE
_LEPOREM_

[382] BRAISED HARE
_LEPOREM MADIDUM_

IS PARBOILED A LITTLE IN WATER, THEREUPON PLACE IT ON A ROASTING PAN WITH OIL, TO BE ROASTED IN THE OVEN. AND WHEN PROPERLY DONE, WITH A CHANGE OF OIL, IMMERSE IT IN THE FOLLOWING GRAVY: CRUSH PEPPER, SATURY, ONION, RUE, CELERY SEED; MOISTEN WITH BROTH, LASER, WINE, AND A LITTLE OIL. WHILE THE ROASTING [of the hare] IS BEING COMPLETED IT IS SEVERAL TIMES BASTED WITH THE GRAVY.

Wanting in Goll.

A difference in the literary style from the foregoing is
quite noticeable.

[383] THE SAME, WITH A DIFFERENT DRESSING
_ITEM ALIA AD EUM IMPENSAM_

[The hare] MUST BE PROPERLY KEPT [i.e. aged for a few days after killing]. CRUSH PEPPER, DATES, LASER, RAISINS, REDUCED WINE, BROTH AND OIL; DEPOSIT [the hare in this preparation to be cooked] WHEN DONE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

Wanting in Goll. Tor. continuing without interruption.

[384] STUFFED HARE
_LEPOREM FARSUM_

WHOLE [pine] NUTS, ALMONDS, CHOPPED NUTS OR BEECHNUTS, WHOLE PEPPER ARE MIXED WITH THE [force] MEAT OF HARE THICKENED WITH EGGS AND WRAPPED IN PIG'S CAUL TO BE ROASTED IN THE OVEN [1]. ANOTHER FORCEMEAT IS MADE WITH RUE, PLENTY OF PEPPER, ONION, SATURY, DATES, BROTH, REDUCED WINE, OR SPICED WINE. THIS IS REDUCED TO THE PROPER CONSISTENCY AND IS LAID UNDER; BUT THE HARE REMAINS IN THE BROTH FLAVORED WITH LASER.

[1] Reminding of the popular meat loaf, made of
remnants: _Falscher Hase_, "Imitation Hare," as it is
known on the Continent.

The ancients probably used the trimmings of hare and
other meat for this forcemeat, or meat loaf, either to
stuff the hare with, or to make a meal of the
preparation itself, as indicated above.

We also recall that the ancients had ingenious baking
moulds of metal in the shape of hares and other animals.
These moulds, no doubt, were used for baking or the
serving of preparations of this sort. The absence of
table forks and cutlery as is used today made such
preparations very appropriate and convenient in
leisurely dining.

[385] WHITE SAUCE FOR HARE
_IUS ALBUM IN ASSUM LEPOREM_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, HARD BOILED YOLKS, PROPERLY POUNDED, MADE INTO A PASTE. IN A SAUCE PAN BOIL BROTH, WINE, OIL, A LITTLE VINEGAR AND CHOPPED ONIONS. WHILE BOILING ADD THE PASTE OF SPICES, STIRRING WITH A FAGOT OF ORIGANY OR SATURY [1] AND WHEN THE WORK IS DONE, BIND IT WITH ROUX.

[1] Fagots, or whips made of different herbs and brushes
are often employed by Apicius, a very subtle device to
impart faint flavors to sauces. The custom has been in
use for ages. With the return of mixed drinks in America
it was revived by the use of cinnamon sticks with which
to stir the drinks.

The above hare formulæ are wanting in Goll.

[386] LIGHTS OF HARE [1]
_ALITER IN LEPOREM_ [2]

A FINE HASH OF HARE'S BLOOD, LIVER AND LUNGS. PUT INTO A SAUCE PAN BROTH AND OIL, AND LET IT BOIL WITH FINELY CHOPPED LEEKS AND CORIANDER; NOW ADD THE LIVERS AND LUNGS, AND, WHEN DONE, CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER, LASER ROOT, MINT, RUE, FLEA-BANE, MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR [3].

[1] Wanting in Goll.

[2] Tor. _Condimentum ex visceribus leporinis_.

[3] The various texts combine the above and the
following formula; but we are of the opinion that they
are two distinct preparations.

[387] LIGHTS OF HARE, ANOTHER WAY
_ALITER_

TO THE HARE'S LIVER ADD THE BLOOD AND POUND IT WITH HONEY AND SOME OF THE HARE'S OWN GRAVY; ADD VINEGAR TO TASTE AND PUT IN A SAUCE PAN, ADD THE LUNGS CHOPPED FINE, MAKE IT BOIL: WHEN DONE BIND WITH ROUX, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

This and the preceding formula resemble closely our
purées or forcemeats of livers of game and fowl, which
are spread on croutons to accompany the roast.

[388] HARE IN ITS OWN BROTH [1]
_ALITER LEPOREM EX SUO IURE_

PREPARE THE HARE, BONE IT, GARNISH [2] PUT IT IN A STEW POT [3] AND WHEN HALF DONE ADD A SMALL BUNCH OF LEEKS, CORIANDER, DILL; WHILE THIS IS BEING DONE, PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, CORIANDER SEED, LASER ROOT, DRY ONION, MINT, RUE, CELERY SEED; CRUSH, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, ADD HONEY, THE HARE'S OWN GRAVY, REDUCED MUST AND VINEGAR TO TASTE; LET IT BOIL, TIE WITH ROUX, DRESS, GARNISH THE ROAST ON A PLATTER, UNDERLAY THE SAUCE, SPRINKLE AND SERVE.

[1] Cf. Goll. {Rx} No. 381.

[2] with vegetables for braising, possibly larding.

[3] _braisière_, for this is plainly a "potroast" of
hare. The boned carcass should be tied; this is perhaps
meant by or is included in _ornas_--garnish, i.e.
getting ready for braising.

[389] HARE À LA PASSENIANUS [1]
_LEPOREM PASSENIANUM_

THE HARE IS DRESSED, BONED, THE BODY SPREAD OUT [2] GARNISHED [with pickling herbs and spices] AND HUNG INTO THE SMOKE STACK [3] WHEN IT HAS TAKEN ON COLOR, COOK IT HALF DONE, WASH IT, SPRINKLE WITH SALT AND IMMERSE IT IN WINE SAUCE. IN THE MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, AND CRUSH: MOISTEN WITH BROTH, WINE AND A LITTLE OIL, HEAT; WHEN BOILING, BIND WITH ROUX. NOW DETACH THE SADDLE OF THE ROAST HARE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] This personage, Passenius, or Passenianus, is not
identified.

[2] To bone the carcass, it usually is opened in the
back, flattened out and all the bones are easily
removed. In that state it is easily pickled and
thoroughly smoked.

[3] Lan., Tac., and Tor. _suspendes ad furnum_; Hum.,
List., and G.-V. _... ad fumum_. We accept the latter
reading, "in the smoke," assuming that _furnum_ is a
typographical error in Lan. and his successors, Tac. and
Tor. Still, roasts have for ages been "hung on chains
close to or above the open fire"; Torinus may not be
wrong, after all, in this essential direction. However,
a boned and flattened-out hare would be better broiled
on the grill than hung up over the open fire.

[390] KROMESKIS OF HARE
_LEPOREM ISICIATUM_

THE HARE IS COOKED AND FLAVORED IN THE SAME [above] MANNER; SMALL BITS OF MEAT ARE MIXED WITH SOAKED NUTS; THIS [salpicon] [1] IS WRAPPED IN CAUL OR PARCHMENT, THE ENDS BEING CLOSED BY MEANS OF SKEWERS [and fried].

[1] We call this preparation a salpicon because it
closely resembles to our modern salpicons--a fine mince
of meats, mushrooms, etc., although the ancient formula
fails to state the binder of this mince--either eggs or
a thickened sauce, or both.

[391] STUFFED HARE
_LEPOREM FARSILEM_

DRESS THE HARE [as usual] GARNISH [marinate] IT, PLACE IN A SQUARE PAN [1]. IN THE MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, ADD CHICKEN LIVERS [sauté] COOKED BRAINS, FINELY CUT MEAT [2] 3 RAW EGGS, BROTH TO TASTE. WRAP IT IN CAUL OR PARCHMENT, FASTEN WITH SKEWERS. HALF ROAST ON A SLOW FIRE. [Meanwhile] PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE: CRUSH AND MOISTEN WITH BROTH, WINE, SEASON, MAKE IT HOT, WHEN BOILING BIND WITH ROUX; THE HALF-DONE HARE IMMERSE [finish its cooking in this broth] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] _Quadratum imponis_, which is plain enough. The hare
is to be roast therein. Dann. Cut in dice; Goll. Spread
it out. Cf. illustration of square roast pan.

[2] Presumably the trimmings of the hare or of pork.
This forcemeat is supposed to be used for the stuffing
of the hare; it, being boned, is rolled up, the
forcemeat inside, the outside covered with caul or
paper, fastened with skewers. Danneil's interpretation
suggests the thought that the raw hare's meat is cut
into squares which are filled with forcemeat, rolled,
wrapped, and roast--a roulade of hare in the regular
term.

[392] BOILED HARE
_ALITER LEPOREM ELIXUM_

DRESS THE HARE; [boil it]. IN A FLAT SAUCE PAN POUR OIL, BROTH, VINEGAR, RAISIN WINE, SLICED ONION, GREEN RUE AND CHOPPED THYME [a sauce which is served on the side] AND SO SERVE IT.

Tor. continuing without interruption.

[393] SPICED SAUCE FOR HARE
_LEPORIS CONDITURA_

CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, ONIONS, THE HARE'S LIVER, BROTH, REDUCED WINE, RAISIN WINE, A LITTLE OIL; BIND WITH RUE WHEN BOILING.

Tor. _id._

[394] SPRINKLED HARE
_LEPOREM (PIPERE) SICCO SPARSUM_ [1]

DRESS THE HARE AS FOR KID À LA TARPEIUS [{Rx} No. 363]. BEFORE COOKING DECORATE IT NICELY [2]. SEASON WITH PEPPER, RUE, SATURY, ONION, LITTLE THYME, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, ROAST IN THE OVEN; AND ALL OVER SPRINKLE HALF AN OUNCE OF PEPPER, RUE, ONIONS, SATURY, 4 DATES, AND RAISINS. THE GRAVY IS GIVEN PLENTY OF COLOR OVER THE OPEN FIRE, AND IS SEASONED WITH WINE, OIL, BROTH, REDUCED WINE, FREQUENTLY STIRRING IT [basting the hare] SO THAT IT MAY ABSORB ALL THE FLAVOR. AFTER THAT SERVE IT IN A ROUND DISH WITH DRY PEPPER.

[1] Tac., Tor. _succo sparsum_.

[2] We have no proof that the ancients used the larding
needle as we do (or did) in our days. "Decorate" may,
therefore, also mean "garnish," i.e. marinate the meat
in a generous variety of spices, herbs, roots and wine.
It is noteworthy that this term, "garnish," used here
and in the preceding formulæ has survived in the
terminology of the kitchen to this day, in that very
sense.

[395] SPICED HARE
_ALITER LEPOREM CONDITUM_

[The well-prepared hare] COOK IN WINE, BROTH, WATER, WITH A LITTLE MUSTARD [seed], DILL AND LEEKS WITH THE ROOTS. WHEN ALL IS DONE, SEASON WITH PEPPER, SATURY, ROUND ONIONS, DAMASCUS PLUMS, WINE, BROTH, REDUCED WINE AND A LITTLE OIL; TIE WITH ROUX, LET BOIL A LITTLE LONGER [baste] SO THAT THE HARE IS PENETRATED BY THE FLAVOR, AND SERVE IT ON A PLATTER MASKED WITH SAUCE.

IX

DORMICE
_GLIRES_

[396] STUFFED DORMOUSE [1]
_GLIRES_

IS STUFFED WITH A FORCEMEAT OF PORK AND SMALL PIECES OF DORMOUSE MEAT TRIMMINGS, ALL POUNDED WITH PEPPER, NUTS, LASER, BROTH. PUT THE DORMOUSE THUS STUFFED IN AN EARTHEN CASSEROLE, ROAST IT IN THE OVEN, OR BOIL IT IN THE STOCK POT.

[1] _Glis_, dormouse, a special favorite of the
ancients, has nothing to do with mice. The fat dormouse
of the South of Europe is the size of a rat, arboreal
rodent, living in trees.

Galen, III, de Alim.; Plinius, VIII, 57/82; Varro, III,
describing the _glirarium_, place where the dormouse was
raised for the table.

Petronius, Cap. 31, describes another way of preparing
dormouse. Nonnus, Diæteticon, p. 194/5, says that
Fluvius Hirpinus was the first man to raise dormouse in
the _glirarium_.

Dormouse, as an article of diet, should not astonish
Americans who relish squirrel, opossum, muskrat, "coon,"
etc.

END OF BOOK VIII

_EXPLICIT APICII TETRAPUS LIBER OCTAUUS_ [Tac.]

{Illustration: TITLE PAGE

Schola Apitiana, Antwerp, 1535}

{Transcription:

SCHOLA APITIANA, EX OPTIMIS QVIBVSDAM authoribus diligenter ac nouiter
constructa, authore Polyonimo Syngrapheo.

ACGESSERE DIALOGI aliquot D. Erasmi Roterodami, & alia quædam lectu
iucundissima.

Væneunt Antuerpiæ in ædibus Ioannis Steelsij.

I. G. 1535.}

APICIUS

Book IX

{Illustration: WINE PITCHER, ELABORATELY DECORATED

"Egg and bead" pattern on the rim. The upper end of handle takes the form of a goddess--Scylla, or Diana with two hounds--ending in acanthus leaves below the waist. On the curved back of handle is a long leaf; the lower attachment is in the form of a mask, ivy-crowned maenad (?). Ntl. Mus., Naples, 69171; Field M., 24048.}

{Illustration: CACCABUS

Stewpot, marmite, without a base, to fit into a hole of stove. The flat lid fits into the mouth of the pot. Found in Pompeii. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 74806; Field M., 24171.}