Chapter XVIII: Book X: The Fisherman 1 (1)

_Lib. X. Halieus_

CHAP. I. DIFFERENT KINDS OF FISH.
CHAP. II. MURENAS.
CHAP. III. EEL.

The numbers of the chapters differ in the various texts.

I

[432] A SAUCE FINES HERBES FOR FRIED FISH
_IUS DIABOTANON _[2]_ PRO _[3]_ PISCE FRIXO_

USE ANY KIND OF FISH. PREPARE [clean, salt, turn in flour] SALT [4] AND FRY IT. CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER SEED, LASER ROOT, ORIGANY, AND RUE, ALL CRUSHED FINE, MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, DATE WINE, HONEY, REDUCED MUST, OIL AND BROTH. POUR IN A SAUCE PAN, PLACE ON FIRE, WHEN SIMMERING POUR OVER THE FRIED FISH, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] This chapter principally deals with fish sauces.
Apparently it is by a different author than Books
I-VIII, which have many formulæ for fish. While we have
no direct proof, we are inclined to believe that Book X
is a Roman version of a Greek treatise on fish sauces, a
monograph, of which there existed many, according to
Athenæus, which specialized on the various departments
of cookery.

[2] Tor. _Diabotom_ (in Greek characters); Greek,
relating to herbs.

[3] Tor. G.-V. _in_.

[4] G.-V. _salsas_.

[433] SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH
_IUS IN PISCE ELIXO_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, SMALL ONIONS, ORIGANY, NUTS, FIGDATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, MUSTARD, A LITTLE OIL; HEAT THIS SAUCE, AND IF YOU WISH [it to be richer, add] RAISINS.

[434] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH
_ALITER IN PISCE ELIXO_ [1]

CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, SATURY, ONION, [hard] BOILED YOLKS, RAISIN WINE, VINEGAR, OIL AND BROTH.

[1] Tor. _frixo_--fried fish, although his heading reads
_elixo_.

[435] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH
_ALITER IUS IN PISCE ELIXO_

PREPARE THE FISH CAREFULLY; IN THE MORTAR PUT SALT, CORIANDER SEED, CRUSH AND MIX WELL; TURN THE FISH THEREIN, PUT IT IN A PAN, COVER IT AND SEAL IT WITH PLASTER [1] COOK IT IN THE OVEN. WHEN DONE RETIRE [the fish from the pan] SPRINKLE WITH STRONG VINEGAR AND SERVE.

[1] Remarkable culinary ingenuity, resembling in
principle the North American Indian method of cooking
whitefish wrapped in clay. Today we use flour and water
made into a stiff paste to seal a pan hermetically if no
"pressure cooker" is available.

This formula cannot be classified under "Sauce for
Boiled Fish."

[436] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH
_ALITER IUS IN PISCE ELIXO_

WHEN THE FISH IS PREPARED, PUT THE SAME IN A FLAT PAN WITH CORIANDER SEED, WATER AND GREEN DILL; WHEN COOKED SPRINKLE WITH VINEGAR AND SERVE [1].

[1] Another fair example of the incompleteness, on the
one hand, of the directions, and of the superfluity, on
the other hand, of words such as the initial and the
closing words, which characterizes so many of the
formulæ. This is characteristic of ever so many culinary
authors of all ages, who, lacking literary training,
assume that the reader is thoroughly versed with the
methods indicated. A versatile modern author would have
said: "Poach the filleted fish in small water seasoned
with coriander seed and green dill; sprinkle with
vinegar before serving." He mentioned neither the salt
nor the oil which he undoubtedly used.

[437] ALEXANDRINE [1] SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH
_IUS ALEXANDRINUM IN PISCE ASSO_

PEPPER, DRY ONIONS [shallots] LOVAGE, CUMIN, ORIGANY, CELERY SEED, STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES [pounded in the mortar] FILLED UP [2] WITH VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST, AND OIL, AND COOK IT.

[1] Alexandria, Egyptian city, at the mouth of the river
Nile, third of the three great cities of antiquity
excepting Carthage during Apicius' time a rival of Rome
and Athens in splendor and commerce. Most important as a
Mediterranean port, where fishing and fish eating was
(and still is) good.

[2] G.-V. _mulsum_, mead.

[438] ANOTHER ALEXANDRINE SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH
_ALITER IUS ALEXANDRINUM IN PISCE ASSO_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, SEEDLESS RAISINS, WINE, RAISIN WINE, BROTH, OIL, COOKED TOGETHER.

[439] ANOTHER ALEXANDRINE SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH
_ALITER IUS ALEXANDRINUM IN PISCE ASSO_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, ONIONS, STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES, RAISIN WINE, BROTH, OIL AND VINEGAR, AND COOK.

[440] SAUCE FOR BROILED CONGER
_IUS IN CONGRO ASSO_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, CRUSHED CUMIN, ORIGANY, DRY ONIONS, HARD YOLKS, WINE, MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST, AND COOK.

G.-V. _Gongo_.

[441] SAUCE FOR HORNED FISH [1]
_IUS IN CORNUTAM_ [1]

PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, ONIONS, SEEDLESS RAISINS, WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; AND COOK IT [2]

[1] _Cornuta_, _cornutus_--"horned," "having horns"--an
unidentified sea fish.

[2] Goll. collects all succeeding formulæ for sauces
into one.

[442] SAUCE FOR BROILED MULLET
_IUS IN MULLOS ASSOS_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, RUE, HONEY, NUTS, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL; HEAT AND POUR OVER [1].

[1] List. is of the opinion that this is fresh mullet,
while salt mullet was treated in the preceding formulæ.

[443] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BROILED MULLET
_ALITER IUS IN MULLOS ASSOS_

RUE, MINT, CORIANDER, FENNEL,--ALL OF THEM GREEN--PEPPER, LOVAGE, HONEY, BROTH, AND A LITTLE OIL.

[444] SEASONING FOR BABY TUNNY
_IUS IN PELAMYDE ASSA_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, GREEN CORIANDER, ONION, SEEDLESS RAISINS [1], RAISIN WINE, VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST, OIL, AND COOK.

[1] Wanting in Tor.

[445]

THIS SAUCE IS ALSO SUITABLE FOR BOILED [tunny]; IF DESIRED ADD HONEY.

[446] SAUCE FOR PERCH
_IUS IN PERCAM_ [1]

PEPPER, LOVAGE, CRUSHED CUMIN, ONIONS, STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES, WINE, MEAD, VINEGAR, OIL, REDUCED MUST; COOK IT.

[1] _Perca_, perch--sea perch or sea bass.

[447] SEASONING FOR REDSNAPPER
_CONDIMENTUM IN RUBELLIONEM_ [1]

PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, WILD THYME, CELERY SEED, DRY ONIONS, WINE, RAISIN WINE, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL; BIND WITH ROUX.

[1] _Rubellio_--a "reddish" fish; perhaps a species of
the red-mullet or red-snapper. Hum. says the Latins
called the fish _rubelliones_, _rubellos_ and _rubros_;
the Greeks _erythrinos_ or _erythricos_, because of
their reddish color. A fish, according to Athenæus
similar to the _pager_ or _pagrus_, _phager_ or
_phagrus_, also called _pagur_, which is not quite
identified.

II

[448] SAUCE FOR [BROILED] MURENA
_IUS IN MURENA [ASSA]_ [1]

PEPPER, LOVAGE, SATURY, SAFFRON [2], ONIONS, STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES, WINE, MEAD, VINEGAR, REDUCED MUST AND OIL; COOK IT [3].

[1] V. doubting that this is broiled.

[2] Tor. _Crocomagma_; List. _crocum magnum_, still used
today in some fish preparations, particularly in the
Bouillabaisse.

[3] The laconic style in which all these fish
preparations are given, is very confusing to the
uninitiated. We assume that most of these ingredients
were used to season the water in which to boil fish; or,
to make a _court-bouillon_, a fish-essence of the bones
and the trimmings of the fish, in which to poach the
sliced fish. The liquor thus gained was reduced and in
the moment of serving was bound with roux or with yolks,
and the fish was masked with this sauce. The exceptions
from this rule are, of course, in cases where the fish
was broiled or fried.

[449] SAUCE FOR BROILED MURENA
_IUS IN MURENA ASSA_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, [stoned] DAMASCUS PRUNES, WINE, MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST, OIL; COOK IT.

[450] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BROILED MURENA
_ALITER IUS IN MURENA ASSA_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, CATMINT [1] CORIANDER SEED, ONIONS, PINE NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; COOK IT.

[1] _Nepeta montana_--nep.

[451] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED MURENA [1]
_ALITER IUS IN MURENA ELIXA_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, DILL, CELERY SEED, CORIANDER, DRY MINT, PINE NUTS, RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE [2] BROTH, A LITTLE OIL, HEAT AND BIND WITH ROUX.

[1] Ex Tac. and Tor.; wanting in List. and G.-V.

[2] Tac.; wanting in Tor.

[452] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED MURENA
_ALITER IUS IN MURENA ELIXA_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED [1] CORIANDER, FIGDATES, MUSTARD, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, REDUCED WINE.

[1] List., Sch., Dann. add here which is wanting in Tor.
_rhus Syriacum_--Syrian Sumach.

The originals are considerably confused on the above and
the following formulæ.

[453] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED MURENA
_ALITER IUS IN MURENA ELIXA_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, VINEGAR, CELERY SEED, SYRIAN SUMACH [1] FIGDATE WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, MUSTARD, AND REDUCED MUST. SERVE [2].

[1] See note to {Rx} No. 452.

[2] Ex Tor. It appears that this formula is a correction
of {Rx} No. 452, as this is wanting in the other
editions. Tor. also lacks the following formula.

In Tac. the above formula follows the next.

[454] SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH
_IUS IN PISCE ELIXO_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, ORIGANY, DRY ONIONS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, A LITTLE OIL, WHEN BOILING, TIE WITH ROUX AND SERVE IN A SMALL SAUCE BOAT [1].

[1] _in lance_; _lanx_ may also mean a large oblong
platter on which fish would be served. Cf. illustration
Oval Dish with Handles.

Horace II Sat. 8--_in patina porrecta_--a special dish
to hold the cooked _murena_ and to display it to
advantage.

Such special dishes are found in any good table service,
to serve special purposes. Not so long ago special forks
and knives were used for fish service which have been
gradually discarded.

[455] SAUCE FOR BOILED LACERTUS FISH
_IUS IN LACERTOS ELIXOS_ [1]

PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, GREEN RUE, ONIONS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL; WHEN BOILING TIE WITH ROUX [2].

[1] _Lacertus_, an unidentified sea fish.

[2] Cf. note 3 to {Rx} No. 448.

In G.-V. this formula precedes the above.

[456] SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH
_IUS IN PISCE ASSO_

A SAUCE FOR [this] BROILED FISH MAKE THUS [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, GREEN CORIANDER, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, OIL, REDUCED MUST; HEAT AND STIR WELL WITH A WHIP OF RUE BRANCHES, AND TIE WITH ROUX.

[1] Tor. wanting in others.

[457] SAUCE FOR TUNNY
_IUS IN THYNNO_

TUNNY, BY MEANS OF THIS SAUCE WILL BE MORE PALATABLE: [1] PEPPER, CUMIN, THYME, CORIANDER, ONIONS, RAISINS, VINEGAR, HONEY, WINE, AND OIL; HEAT, TIE WITH ROUX, AND SERVE FOR DINNER [2].

[1] and [2] first and last sentences from Tor., wanting
in others.

[458] SAUCE FOR BOILED TUNNY
_IUS IN THYNNO ELIXO_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, CRUSHED HERBS [1], ONIONS, FIG DATES [or fig wine] HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, MUSTARD AND TIE [2].

[1] _Condimenta mortaria_--herbs crushed in the
"mortar"; also pulverized spices.

[2] "and tie" wanting in List. Leave it out, and you
have an acceptable _vinaigrette_--a cold sauce for cold
fish.

[459] SAUCE FOR BROILED TOOTH FISH
_IUS IN DENTICE ASSO_ [1]

SAUCE FOR BROILED TOOTH [1] FISH IS MADE THUS [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, MINT, DRY RUE, COOKED QUINCES [3], HONEY, WINE, BROTH, OIL; HEAT AND TIE WITH ROUX.

[1] _Dentex_; Hum. _dentex forma auratæ similis, verum
major_--the tooth-fish is similar to the dory in shape,
though larger.

[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.

[3] _Malum Cydonicum._

[460] BOILED TOOTHFISH
_IN DENTICE ELIXO_ [1]

PEPPER, DILL, CUMIN, THYME, MINT, GREEN RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, A LITTLE OIL, HEAT AND TIE WITH ROUX.

[1] Ex List.; wanting in Tor.

[461] SAUCE FOR DORY
_IUS IN PISCE AURATA_ [1]

A SEASONING FOR DORY IS MADE THUS [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, ORIGANY, RUE BERRIES, MINT, MYRTLE BERRIES, YOLKS OF EGG, HONEY, VINEGAR, OIL, WINE, BROTH; HEAT AND USE IT SO.

[1] _Aurata_--the "golden" dory. Very esteemed fish.
Martial, III, Ep. 90:

_Non omnis laudem preliúmque aurate meretur:
Sed cui solus erit concha Lucrina cibus_

[2] Tor. wanting in other texts.

[462] SAUCE FOR BROILED DORY.
_IUS IN PISCE AURATA ASSA_

A SAUCE WHICH WILL MAKE BROILED DORY MORE TASTY CONSISTS OF [1] PEPPER, CORIANDER, DRY MINT, CELERY SEED, ONIONS, RAISINS, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH AND OIL.

[463] SAUCE FOR SEA SCORPION [1]
_IUS IN SCORPIONE ELIXO_

PEPPER, CARRAWAY, PARSLEY, FIGDATE WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, MUSTARD, OIL AND REDUCED WINE.

[1] Sea scorpion, boiled like shellfish, with the above
ingredients; the cold meat is separated from the shell
and is eaten with _vinaigrette_ sauce.

[464] WINE SAUCE FOR FISH
_IN PISCE {OE}NOGARUM_

CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, AND HONEY; MIX IN RAISIN WINE, BROTH, REDUCED WINE; HEAT ON A VERY SLOW FIRE.

[465] ANOTHER WAY
_ALITER_

THE ABOVE, WHEN BOILING, MAY BE TIED WITH ROUX.

III

EEL

[466] SAUCE FOR EEL
_IUS IN ANGUILLAM_

EEL WILL BE MADE MORE PALATABLE BY A SAUCE WHICH HAS [1] PEPPER, CELERY SEED, LOVAGE [2], ANISE, SYRIAN SUMACH [3], FIGDATE WINE [4], HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, MUSTARD, REDUCED MUST.

[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.

[2] Note the position of lovage in this formula. Usually
it follows pepper. We have finally accounted for this
peculiarity. Torinus, throughout the original, treats
"pepper" and "lovage" as one spice, whereas we have kept
the two separate. He believed it to be a certain kind of
pepper--_piper Ligusticum_. _Piper_, as a matter of
fact, stands for pepper, and _Ligusticum_ is the herb,
Lovage, an umbelliferous plant, also called
_Levisticum_. The fact that the two words are here
separated plainly shows that Torinus has been in the
dark about this matter almost to the end.

One wonders why he did not change or correct this error
in the preceding books. His marginal errata prove that
his work was being printed as he wrote it, or furnished
copy therefor--namely in installments. Since the
printer's type was limited, each sheet was printed in
the complete edition, and the type was then used over
again for the next sheet.

[3] Tor. _thun_.

[4] Wanting in Tor.

[467] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR EEL
_ALITER IUS IN ANGUILLAM_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, SYRIAN SUMACH, DRY MINT, RUE BERRIES, HARD YOLKS, MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; COOK IT.

END OF BOOK X THE LAST OF THE BOOKS OF APICIUS

_CELII APITII HALIEUS LIBER DECIMUS & ULTIMUS. EXPLICIT_ [Tac.]

{Illustration: CANTHARUS, WINE BOWL OR CUP

With elaborate ornamentation: Over a sacred fountain the walls of a theatre, with emblems of a theatrical nature and garlands of flowers and fruits, wine skins, tyrsus, torches, masks and musical instruments. Hildesheim Treasure.}

{Illustration: OPENING CHAPTER, BOOK I, VENICE, 1503

From the Lancilotus edition, printed by Tacuinus in Venice in 1503. Identical with the two previous editions except for very minor variants. The rubrication is not completed here. Fine initials were painted in the vacant spaces by hand; the small letter in the center of the square being the cue for the rubricator. This practice, a remnant from the manuscript books, was very soon abandoned after the printing of books became commercialized.}

{Transcription:

Laseratum Oxyporum Oxygarum digestibile
Oenogarum in tubera Hypotrima Mortaria

¶ Ciminatum in ostrea de conchiliis.

Apicii Celii epimeles Incipit liber primus conditum paradoxum.

Conditi Paradoxi compositio: mellis partes. xv.
in æneum uas mittuntur in præmissis inde sextariis
duobus ut in cocturam mellis uinum decoques.
quod igni lento: & aridis lignis calefactum
comotum ferula dum coquitur. Si efferuere
c{oe}perit uini rore compescitur preter quod subtracto igni
in se redit. cum perfrixerit rursus accenditur Hoc secundo ac tertio
fiet ac tum demum remotum a foco postridie despumatur cum
piperis unciis iiii. iam triti masticis scrupulo. iii. folii & croci
dragmæ singulæ. dactilorum ossibus torridis quinque hisdem dactilis
uino mollitis intercedente prius suffusione uini de suo modo ac
numero: ut tritura lenis habeatur: his omnibus paratis supermittes
uini lenis sextaria. xviii. carbones perfecto addere duo milia.

¶ Conditum meliromum.

Ulatorum conditum meliromum perpetuum quod subministratur
per uiam peregrinanti. pp tritum cum melle despumato in cupellam
mittis conditi loco. & ad mouendum quantum sit bibendum
tantum aut mellis proferas: aut uinum inferas: sed suaserit non nihil
uini meliromo mittas adiiciendum propter exitum solutiorem.

¶ Absynthium romanum.

Absynthium romanum sic facies. Conditi camerini præceptis
utique pro absynthio cessante: in cuius uicem absynthi
ponthici purgati terembitique unciam thebaicam dabis.
masticis folii. iii. scrupulos senos. croci scrupulos. iii. uini
eiusmodi sextarios. xviii. carbones amaritudo non exigit.}

THE EXCERPTS FROM APICIUS BY VINIDARIUS

{Illustration: BREVIS PIMENTORUM

Manuscript of the 8th Century. From the Codex Salmasianus, Excerpts from Apicius by Vinidarius.}

{Transcription:

BREVIS PIMENTORUM QUÆ IN DOMO ESSE DEBEANT
UT CONDIMENTIS NIHIL DESIT;

crocum, piper, zingiber, lasar, folium, baca murræ,
costum, cariofilum, spica indica, addena, cardamomum,
spica nardi. De seminibus hoc.
dapaber, semen rudæ, baca rutæ, baca lauri, semen
aneti, semen api, semen feniculi, semen ligustici,
semen erucæ, semen coriandri, cuminum anesum,
petro silenum, careum, sisama

Apici excerpta. a Vinidario vir intut

De siccis hoc
lasaris radices, menta, nepeta, saluia, cuppressum,
oricanum, zyniperum, cepa gentima, bacas timmi,
coriandrum, piretrum, citri fastinaca, cepa ascalonia,
radices iunci, anet puleium, ciperum
alium, ospera, samsucum, innula, silpium, cardamomum.

De liquoribus hoc.
mel, defritum, carinum, apiperium, passum.

De nucleis hoc.
nuces maiores nuclos pineos ac midula aballana.

De pomis siccis hoc.
damascena, datilos, uva, passa, granata. hæc
omnia in loco sicco pone ne odorem et virtutem
perdant. Brevis cyborum.
caccabina minore. ii. caccabina fusile. iii. ofellas
garatas. iiii. ofellas assas. v. aliter ofellas.
vi. ofellas graton. vii. pisces, scorpiones}

{Illustration: CACCABUS

Stewpot, marmite, or kettle. With a ring base. The cover fits over the mouth. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 74813; Field M., 24172.}

THE EXCERPTS FROM APICIUS
BY VINIDARIUS
THE ILLUSTRIOUS MAN

_Apici Excerpta A Vinidario Viro Inlustri_

FIFTH CENTURY

Vinidarius, a Goth, of noble birth or a scientist, living in Italy. Vinithaharjis is the native name. Of his time and life very little is known. It appears that he was a student of Apicius and that he made certain excerpts from that book which are preserved in the uncial codex of Salmasius, sæc. VIII, Paris, lat. 10318.

Vollmer in his Apicius commentary says that Salmasius and his predecessors have accepted them as genuine. Schuch incorporated these recipes in the Apicius text of his editions, in appropriate places, as he thought. This course cannot be recommended, although the recipes should form an integral part of any Apicius edition.

M. Ihm, who faithfully reprinted the excerpta in the Archiv f. lat. Lex. XV, 64, ff. says distinctly: "These excerpts have nothing to do with the ten books of Apicius, even if some recipes resemble each other ..." and other researchers have expressed the same opinion. Vollmer, however, does not share this view.

If I may be permitted to concur with Vollmer, I would say that the excerpts are quite Apician in character, and that in a sense they fill certain gaps in the Apicius text, although the language is strongly vulgarized which may be readily expected to be the case in the age of Vinidarius.

The recipes of Anthimus, written around A.D. 511 also confirm the close relation existing between Vinidarius and Apicius. Anthimus was the Greek physician to Theodoric I, (The Great), Frankish king living in Italy. He was not acquainted with Apicius.

SUMMARY OF SPICES
_BREVIS PIMENTORUM_ [1]

WHICH SHOULD BE IN THE HOUSE ON HAND SO THAT THERE MAY BE NOTHING WANTING [in the line of condiments]: SAFFRON, PEPPER, GINGER, LASER, LEAVES [laurel-bay-nard], MYRTLE BERRIES, COSTMARY, CHERVIL [2], INDIAN SPIKENARD, ADDENA [3], CARDAMOM, SPIKENARD.

[1] _Pigmentorum_--_specierum_--spices. The old
_pigmentum_ is really any coloring matter; the word,
corrupted to pimento and pimiento is now used for sweet
red pepper and also for allspice.

[2] _Cariofilu_--_cærefolium_--_Chærephyllon_; Fr.
_Cerfeuille_; Ger. _Kerbel_. This should be among the
herbs.

[3] Not identified.

OF SEEDS [to be on hand]
_DE SEMINIBUS HOC_

POPPY SEED, RUE SEED, RUE BERRIES, LAUREL BERRIES, ANISE SEED, CELERY SEED, FENNEL SEED, LOVAGE SEED, ROCKET SEED, CORIANDER SEED, CUMIN, DILL, PARSLEY SEED, CARRAWAY SEED, SESAM.

OF DRIED [herbs, etc., to be on hand]
_DE SICCIS HOC_

LASER ROOT, MINT, CATNIP, SAGE, CYPRESS, ORIGANY, JUNIPER, SHALLOTS, BACAS TIMMI [1], CORIANDER, SPANISH CAMOMILE, CITRON, PARSNIPS, ASCALONIAN SHALLOTS, BULL RUSH ROOTS, DILL, FLEABANE, CYPRIAN RUSH, GARLIC, LEGUMES [2], MARJORAM [3], INNULA [4] SILPHIUM, CARDAMOM.

[1] Not identified. Perhaps the seed of thyme, though
the word _bacas_ would be out of place there.

[2] _Ospera_, i.e., _Osperios_.

[3] _Samsucu_, i.e., _sampsuchum_ Elderberries?

[4] Not identified; perhaps _laurus innubus_, dried
virgin laurel leaves.

OF LIQUIDS [to be on hand]
_DE LIQUORIBUS HOC_

HONEY, REDUCED MUST, REDUCED WINE, APIPERIU [1] RAISIN WINE.

[1] Not identified. We take it to be honey mead, or some
other honey preparation, maybe, _piperatum_, pepper
sauce.

OF NUTS [to be on hand]
_DE NUCLEIS HOC_

LARGER NUTS, PINE NUTS, ALMONDS [1] HAZELNUTS [filberts] [2].

[1] _Acmidula_, i.e., _amygdala_.

[2] _Aballana_--_abellana_--_abellinæ_--_avellana_; Fr.
_avelline_.

OF DRIED FRUITS [to be on hand]
_DE POMIS SICCIS HOC_

DAMASCUS PRUNES, DATES, RAISINS, POMEGRANATES.

ALL OF THESE THINGS STORE IN A DRY PLACE SO THAT THEY MAY LOSE NEITHER FLAVOR NOR [other] VIRTUES.

SUMMARY OF DISHES [1]
_BREUIS CYBORV_ [1]

I. CASSEROLE OF VEGETABLES AND CHICKEN
_CACCABINA MINORE_
II. STUFFED CHARTREUSE
_CACCABINA FUSILE_
III. BRAISED CUTLETS
_OFELLAS GARATAS_
IV. ROAST MEAT BALLS
_OFELLAS ASSAS_
V. GLAZED CUTLETS
_ALITER OFELLAS_
VI. MEAT BALLS WITH LASER
_OFELLAS GRATON_
VII. SEA SCORPION WITH TURNIPS
_PISCES SCORPIONES RAPULATAS_
VIII. ANY KIND OF FISH, FRIED
_PISCES FRIXOS CUIUSCUMQUE GENERIS_
IX. FRIED FISH
_ITEM PISCES FRIXOS_
X. ROAST [Grilled] FISH
_PISCES ASSOS_
XI. FRIED FISH AND WINE SAUCE
_PISCES INOTOGONON_
XII. SARDINES, BABY TUNNY, WHITING
_SARDAS_
XIII. FISH STEWED IN WINE
_ITEM PISCES INOTOGONON_
XIV. STEWED MULLET WITH DILL
_MULLOS ANETATOS_
XV. MULLET, DIFFERENT STYLE
_ALITER MULLOS_
XVI. MURENA AND EEL
_MURENAS ET ANGUILLAS_
XVII. SPINY LOBSTER AND SQUILL
_LUCUSTAS ET ISQUILLAS_
XVIII. BOILED FISH
_PISCES ELIXOS_
XIX. A DISH OF SOLE AND EGGS
_PATINAS OBORUM_
XX. SUCKLING PIG, CORIANDER SAUCE
_PORCELLO CORIANDRATU_
XXI. SUCKLING PIG, WINE SAUCE
_PORCELLO IN OCCUCTU_
XXII. PORK, PAN GRAVY
_PORCELLO EO IURE_
XXIII. PORK SPRINKLED WITH THYME
_PORCELLO TYMMO CRAPSU_
XXIV. PICKLED PORK
_PORCELLU EXOZOME_
XXV. LASER [sauce for] PORK
_PORCELLU LASARATU_
XXVI. SAUCE FOR PORK
_PORCELLU IUSCELLU_
XXVII. PLAIN LAMB
_AGNU SIMPLICE_
XXVIII. KID AND LASER
_HEDU LASARATU_
XXIX. THRUSH, HEALTH STYLE
_TURDOS APONTOMENUS_
XXX. TURTLEDOVES
_TURTURES_
XXXI. SAUCE FOR PARTRIDGE
_IUS IN PERDICES_

[1] _Brevis cyboru_ could be nicely and appropriately
rendered with "Menu,"--something minute, short,--but
this list is not a menu in our modern sense. It is an
enumeration of recipe names, a summary of dishes
contained in the excerpts.

There is considerable variation in the spelling of the
names here and in the following. Syllables ending with
"u" are invariably abbreviations of "um."

I

[468] A CASSEROLE [1] OF VEGETABLE AND CHICKEN
_CACCABINAM MINOREM_

ARRANGE DIFFERENT KINDS OF COOKED VEGETABLES IN A CASSEROLE WITH [cooked] CHICKEN INTERSPERSED, IF YOU LIKE; SEASON WITH BROTH AND OIL, SET TO BOIL. NEXT CRUSH A LITTLE PEPPER AND LEAVES, AND MIX AN EGG IN WITH THE DRESSING [add this to the vegetables] PRESS [into the casserole, eliminating the juice] [2].

[1] The dish resembles a chartreuse.

[2] Juice should be extracted before the addition of the
egg, if the dish is to be unmoulded.

Ia

[469] THE SAME, WITH ANOTHER DRESSING, A CABBAGE _CHARTREUSE_
_ALIAS: TRITURA UNDE PERFUNDES CACCABINAM_

CRUSH WHATEVER QUANTITY OF LEAVES IS REQUIRED WITH CHERVIL AND ONE AND A QUARTER PART OF LAUREL BERRIES, A MEDIUM-SIZED BOILED CABBAGE, CORIANDER LEAVES, DISSOLVE WITH ITS OWN JUICE, STEAM IN THE HOT ASHES, BUT FIRST PLACE IN A MOULD [when stiff unmould on a platter] DECORATE, POUR UNDER A WELL-SEASONED SAUCE, AND SO SERVE [1].

[1] Either the vegetables and chicken of {Rx} No. 468
are combined with this dressing or a purée of the above
cabbage, etc., is made, which will make this an integral
dish. The instructions are vague enough to leave room
for this choice; but there can be no doubt but what we
have here a formula for a vegetable purée or a pudding,
a genuine "Chartreuse," such as were prepared in the
fancy moulds so popular in old Rome. The "Chartreuse,"
then, is not original with the vegetarian monks of the
monastery by that name, the Carthusians.

II

[470] A STUFFED CHARTREUSE
_CACCABINAM _[1]_ FUSILEM_

[Take cooked] MALLOWS, LEEKS, BEETS, OR COOKED CABBAGE SPROUTS [shoots or tender strunks] THRUSHES [roast] AND QUENELLES OF CHICKEN, TIDBITS OF PORK OR SQUAB CHICKEN AND OTHER SIMILAR SHREDS OF FINE MEATS THAT MAY BE AVAILABLE; ARRANGE EVERYTHING ALTERNATELY IN LAYERS [in a mould or in a casserole]. CRUSH PEPPER AND LOVAGE WITH 2 PARTS OF OLD WINE, 1 PART BROTH, 1 PART HONEY AND A LITTLE OIL. TASTE IT; AND WHEN WELL MIXED AND IN DUE PROPORTIONS PUT IN A SAUCE PAN AND ALLOW TO HEAT MODERATELY; WHEN BOILING ADD A PINT OF MILK IN WHICH [about eight] EGGS HAVE BEEN DISSOLVED; [next] POUR [this spiced custard] OVER [the layers of vegetables and meats, heat slowly without allowing to boil] AND WHEN CONGEALED SERVE [either in the casserole, or carefully unmould the dish on a service platter] [2].

[1] It is interesting to note how the generic terms,
_salacaccabia_ and _caccabina_ have degenerated here. In
these formulas the terms have lost all resemblance to
the former meaning, the original "salt meat boiled in a
pot." Such changes are very often observed in the
terminology of our modern kitchens, in every language.
They make the definition of terms and the classification
of subjects extremely difficult. They add much to the
confusion among cooks and guests in public dining places
and create misunderstandings that only an expert can
explain.

[2] This dish affords an opportunity for a decorative
scheme by the arrangement of the various vegetables and
meats in a pleasing and artistic manner, utilizing the
various colors and shapes of the bits of food as one
would use pieces of stone in a mosaic. Of course, such a
design can be appreciated only if the chartreuse is
served unmoulded, i.e. if the cook succeeds in
unmoulding it without damaging the structure.

III

[471] BRAISED CUTLETS
_OFELLAS GARATAS_ [1]

PLACE THE MEAT IN A STEW PAN, ADD ONE POUND [2] OF BROTH, A LIKE QUANTITY OF OIL, A TRIFLE OF HONEY, AND THUS BRAISE [3].

[1] Derived from _garum_ or _{oe}nogarum_, the wine
sauce. These are supposed to be meat balls or cutlets
prepared with garum, but the _garum_ is not mentioned in
the formula. This also illustrates the interesting
etymology of the word. It is not recognized in every-day
ancient language because it is a typical technical term,
the much complained-of _lingua culinaria_. We find,
therefore, that--at least in this instance--_garum_ no
longer stands for a sauce made from the fish, _garus_,
but that _garum_ has become a generic term for certain
kinds of sauces. Danneil renders _garatus_ with
_lasaratus_, which is clearly out of place.

[2] In this instance, and in several others, and also
according to Sueton. Cæs. fluids were weighed. What idea
could be more practical, useful and more "modern" than
this? Sheer commercial greed, stubbornness, indolence
have thus far made futile all efforts towards more
progressive methods in handling food stuffs,
particularly in the weighing of them and in selling them
by their weight. Present market methods are very
chaotic, and are kept purposely so to the detriment of
the buyer.

[3] The original: _et sic frigis_.--_Frigo_ is
equivalent to frying, drying, parching; the word here
has taken on a broader meaning, because the "frying"
process is clearly out of question here. It appears that
the terminology of _frigo_ and that of _asso_ in the
next formula, has not been clearly defined. As a matter
of fact, not many modern cooks today are able to give a
clear definition of such terms as frying, broiling,
roasting, braising, baking, which are thus subject to
various interpretations.

IV

[472] ROAST MEAT BALLS
_OFELLAS ASSAS_

MEATBALLS [previously sauté], CAREFULLY PREPARED, ARRANGE IN A SHALLOW STEW PAN AND BRAISE THEM IN WINE SAUCE; AFTERWARDS SERVE THEM IN THE SAME SAUCE OR GRAVY, SPRINKLED WITH PEPPER.

V

[473] GLAZED CUTLETS
_ALITER OFELLAS_

THE MEAT PIECES ARE BRAISED [1] IN BROTH AND ARE GLAZED [2] WITH HOT HONEY [3] AND THUS SERVED.

[1] Cf. note 3 to Excerpta III.

[2] _unguantur._

[3] Dann. oil; G.-V. _melle_--_honey_. It is quite
common to use honey for glazing foods. Today we sprinkle
meats (ham) with sugar, exposing it to the open heat to
melt it; the sugar thus forms a glaze or crust.

VI

[474] MEAT BALLS WITH LASER
_OFELLAS GARATAS_ [1]

LASER, GINGER, CARDAMOM, AND A DASH OF BROTH; CRUSH THIS ALL, MIX WELL, AND COOK THE MEAT BALL THEREIN [2].

[1] Cf. Summary of Dishes, and note 1 to Excerpta III.

[2] Dann. adds cumin, due perhaps to the faulty reading
of the sentence, _misces cum his omnibus tritis_, etc.

VII

[475] SEA-SCORPION WITH TURNIPS
_PISCES SCORPIONES RAPULATOS_ [1]

COOK [the fish] IN BROTH AND OIL, RETIRE WHEN HALF DONE: SOAK BOILED TURNIPS, CHOP VERY FINE AND SQUEEZE THEM IN YOUR HANDS SO THAT THEY HAVE NO MORE MOISTURE IN THEM; THEN COMBINE THEM WITH THE FISH AND LET THEM SIMMER WITH PLENTY OF OIL: AND WHILE THIS COOKS, CRUSH CUMIN, HALF OF THAT AMOUNT OF LAUREL BERRIES, AND, BECAUSE OF THE COLOR, ADD SAFFRON; BIND WITH RICE FLOUR TO GIVE IT THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY. ADD A DASH OF VINEGAR AND SERVE.

[1] _rapa_, _rapum_: white turnip, rape; "turniped."

VIII

[476] [Sauce for] ANY KIND OF FISH, FRIED MAKE THUS:
_PISCES FRIXOS CUIUSCUMQUE GENERIS_

CRUSH PEPPER, CORIANDER SEED, LASER ROOT, ORIGANY, RUE, FIGDATES, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, OIL, BROTH, ADDING REDUCED MUST, ALL THIS PREPARE AND MIX CAREFULLY, PLACE IN SMALL CASSEROLE TO HEAT. WHEN THOROUGHLY HEATED, POUR OVER THE FRIED FISH, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

IX

[477] [Sauce for] SAME FRIED FISH MAKE THUS:
_ITEM PISCES FRIXOS_

CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE [1], LAUREL BERRIES, CORIANDER, AND MOISTEN WITH HONEY, BROTH [2], WINE, RAISIN WINE, OR REDUCED SPICED WINE; COOK THIS ON A SLOW FIRE, BIND WITH RICE FLOUR AND SERVE.

[1] Sch. _ligisticum_.

[2] Wanting in Sch.

X

[478] [Sauce for] ROAST FISH [1]
_PISCES ASSOS_

CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, SATURY, DRY ONIONS, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, ADD FIGDATES, DILL, YOLKS OF EGG, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, REDUCED MUST; ALL THIS MIX THOROUGHLY AND UNDERLAY [the fish with it].

[1] The fish was probably broiled on the _craticula_
(see our illustration).

The nature of this sauce is not quite clear. If properly
handled, it might turn out to be a highly seasoned
mayonnaise, or a vinaigrette, depending on the mode of
manipulation; either would be suitable for fried or
broiled fish.

XI

[479] FISH AND WINE SAUCE
_PISCES {OE}NOTEGANON_ [1]

FRY THE FISH; CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, RUE, GREEN HERBS, DRY ONIONS, ADD OIL [wine] BROTH AND SERVE.

[1] Ihm and G.-V. _{oe}noteganon_; _inotogono_ and in
the Summary of Dishes _inotogonon_; Sch. _eleogaro_.
Rather an obscure term, owing to the diversity of
spelling. We would call it a dish stewed in or prepared
with wine, although wine is absent in the present
formula. However, it is given in XIII, which bears the
same name.

Dann. is obviously mistaken in styling this preparation
"oil broth."

XII

[480] [Cold Sauce for] SARDINES MAKE THUS:
_SARDAS _[1]_ SIC FACIES_

CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE SEED, ORIGANY, DRY ONIONS, HARD BOILED YOLKS, VINEGAR, OIL; THIS MUST BE COMBINED INTO ONE [2] AND UNDERLAID.

[1] A kind of small tunny, which, like our herring, used
to be pickled or salt, corresponding to the anchovy. A
"sardine," from the island of Sardinia; _Sardus_, the
inhabitant of Sardinia.

[2] The absence of detailed instructions as to the
manipulation of the yolks, oil and vinegar is
regrettable; upon them depends the certainty or
uncertainty of whether the ancients had our modern
mayonnaise.

XIII

[481] FISH STEWED IN WINE
_PISCES {OE}NOTEGANON_ [1]

RAW FISH ANY KIND YOU PREFER, WASH [prepare, cut into handy size] ARRANGE IN A SAUCE PAN; ADD OIL, BROTH, VINEGAR, A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND [fresh] CORIANDER, AND COOK: [Meanwhile] CRUSH PEPPER, ORIGANY, LOVAGE WITH THE BUNCHES OF LEEKS AND CORIANDER WHICH YOU HAVE COOKED [with the fish] AND POUR [this preparation] INTO THE SAUCE PAN. [When the fish is done, retire it and arrange the pieces in the serving dish, casserole, bowl or platter] BRING THE RESIDUE IN THE SAUCE PAN TO A BOILING POINT, ALLOW IT TO REDUCE SLOWLY TO THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY [Strain the sauce of the fish] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] Cf. note to XI. This _{oe}noteganon_ resembles the
_Bouillabaisse_, the famous Marseilles fish chowder. In
addition to the above manner it is flavored with
saffron. An excellent dish, especially with the
judicious addition of onions, parsley, a suspicion of
garlic and small sippets of toasted bread.

XIV

[482] MULLET STEWED WITH DILL MAKE THUS:
_MULLOS ANETHATOS _[1]_ SIC FACIES_

PREPARE THE FISH [clean, wash, trim, cut into pieces] AND PLACE IN A SAUCE PAN, ADDING OIL, BROTH, WINE, BUNCHES OF LEEKS, [fresh] CORIANDER, [fresh dill]; PLACE ON FIRE TO COOK. [Meanwhile] PUT PEPPER IN THE MORTAR, POUND IT, ADD OIL, AND ONE PART OF VINEGAR AND RAISIN WINE TO TASTE. [This preparation] TRANSFER INTO A SAUCE PAN, PLACE ON THE FIRE TO HEAT, TIE WITH ROUX, ADD TO THE FISH IN THE SAUCE PAN. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] From _anethus_--dill--which is omitted in formula.
Sch. _anecatos_, i.e. _submersos_, because the original
fails to state the dill in the formula. Such conjecture
is not justified.

XV

[483] MULLET ANOTHER STYLE
_ALITER MULLOS_

SCRAPE, WASH, PLACE [the fish] IN A SAUCE PAN, ADD OIL, BROTH, WINE AND A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND [fresh] CORIANDER TO THE MESS, SET ON THE FIRE TO COOK. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH SOME OF THE FISH'S OWN LIQUOR [from the sauce pan] ADD RAISIN WINE TO TASTE, PUT IT INTO A POT AND ON THE FIRE TO HEAT; TIE WITH ROUX AND PRESENTLY ADD IT TO THE CONTENTS IN THE SAUCE PAN [1] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] It appears that the _patina_ mentioned in this and
in the foregoing formula is either a finely wrought
metal sauce pan or chafing dish, or a plainer _cumana_,
an earthenware casserole; either of which may be used
for service at the table.

It may be noticed how this manner of preparing fish has
a tendency to preserve all the savory flavors and juices
of the fish, a process in this respect both rational and
economical.

XVI

[484] MURENA [1], EEL [2] OR MULLET MAKE THUS:
_MURENAM AUT ANGUILLAS VEL MULLOS SIC FACIES_

CLEAN THE FISH AND CAREFULLY PLACE IN A SAUCE PAN. IN THE MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MINT, DRY ONIONS, CRUSH, MOISTEN WITH A SMALL GLASS OF WINE, HALF OF THAT OF BROTH, AND OF HONEY ONE THIRD PART, AND A MODERATE AMOUNT OF REDUCED MUST, SAY A SPOONFUL. IT IS NECESSARY THAT THE FISH BE ENTIRELY COVERED BY THIS LIQUOR SO THAT THERE MAY BE SUFFICIENT JUICE DURING THE COOKING.

[1] The ancients considered the murena one of the finest
of fish; the best were brought from the straits of
Sicily. Rich Romans kept them alive in their fish ponds,
often large and elaborate marble basins called,
_piscina_, fattened the fish, kept it ready for use.
Pollio fattened murenas on human flesh, killing a slave
on the slightest provocation and throwing the body into
the fish pond; he would eat only the liver of such
murenas. This is the only case of such cruelty on
record, and it has often been cited and exaggerated.

[2] Perhaps the sea-eel, or conger, according to Dann.
Also very much esteemed. The witty Plautus names a cook
in one of his comedies "Congrio," because the fellow was
"slippery."

XVII

[485] [Dressing for] SPINY LOBSTER (AND SQUILL)
_LOCUSTAM (ET SCILLAM)_ [1]

CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, POUR IN VINEGAR, BROTH, YOLKS OF [hard boiled] EGGS, MIX WELL TOGETHER [2] AND DRESS [the boiled shellfish meat with it] AND SERVE.

[1] Cf. Summary of Dishes.

[2] Another of Apicii hasty and laconic formulæ. No
indication as to how to use the ingredients named.
According to our notion of eating, there is only one
way: The shellfish is boiled in aromatic water, allowed
to cool off; the meat is then taken out of the shells;
the above named ingredients are combined in a manner of
a mayonnaise or a vinaigrette, although the necessary
oil is not mentioned here. The dressing is poured over
the shellfish meat, and the result is a sort of salad or
"cocktail" as we have today.

XVIII

[486] [Sauce] FOR BOILED FISH
_IN PISCIBUS ELIXIS_

CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, ORIGANY WHICH MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR; ADD PINE NUTS, FIGDATES [1] IN SUFFICIENT QUANTITY, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, MUSTARD, MIX AND COMBINE PROPERLY AND BRING FORTH.

[1] Dann. is undecided as to whether this is dates or
date wine; Goll. thinks it is mustard seed, which is not
so bad gastronomically; but the original leaves no room
for any doubt.

XIX

[487] A DISH OF SOLE WITH EGGS
_PATINA SOLEARUM EX OVIS_

SCALE [skin] CLEAN [the soles], PLACE IN A [shallow] SAUCE PAN, ADD BROTH, OIL [white] WINE, A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND CORIANDER SEED, PLACE ON FIRE TO COOK, GRIND A LITTLE PEPPER, ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH THE FISH LIQUOR [from the sauce pan]. TAKE 10 RAW EGGS, BEAT THEM AND MIX WITH THE REMAINING LIQUOR; PUT IT ALL BACK OVER THE FISH, AND ON A SLOW FIRE ALLOW TO HEAT [without boiling] AND THICKEN TO THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY; SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [1].

[1] Very similar to _Sole au vin blanc_. Cf. {Rx} No.
155.

XX

[488] SUCKLING PIG, CORIANDER SAUCE
_PORCELLUM CORIANDRATUM_

ROAST THE PIG CAREFULLY; MAKE THUS A MORTAR MIXTURE: POUND PEPPER, DILL, ORIGANY, GREEN CORIANDER, MOISTEN WITH HONEY, WINE, BROTH, OIL, VINEGAR, REDUCED MUST. ALL OF THIS WHEN HOT POUR OVER [the roast] SPRINKLE RAISINS, PINE NUTS AND CHOPPED ONIONS OVER AND SO SERVE.

XXI

[489] SUCKLING PIG, WINE SAUCE
_PORCELLUM ÆNOCOCTUM_ [1]

TAKE THE PIG, GARNISH [with a marinade of herbs, etc.] COOK [roast] IT WITH OIL AND BROTH. WHEN DONE, PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, RUE, LAUREL BERRIES, BROTH, RAISIN WINE OR REDUCED WINE, OLD WINE, CRUSH ALL, MIX AND PREPARE TO A POINT; DRESS THE PIG ON A SHOWY SERVICE [2] PLATTER AND SERVE.

[1] i.e. _{oe}nococtum_, cooked or prepared in wine
sauce.

[2] Dann. is of the opinion that the pig is cooked in a
copper vessel, because the instructions are to serve it
_in patinam aheneam_.

XXII

[490] PIG, PAN GRAVY
_PORCELLUM EO IURE_

ROAST THE PIG IN ITS OWN JUICE; [when done] RETIRE; BIND THE GRAVY WITH ROUX; [strain] PUT IN A SAUCE BOAT AND SERVE.

XXIII

[491] PIG SPRINKLED WITH THYME
_PORCELLUM THYMO SPARSUM_

MILK-FED PIG, KILLED ON THE PREVIOUS DAY, BOIL WITH SALT AND DILL; TRANSFER IT INTO COLD WATER, CAREFULLY KEEPING IT SUBMERGED, TO PRESERVE ITS WHITENESS. THEREUPON [make a cold dressing of the following] GREEN SAVORY HERBS, [fresh] THYME, A LITTLE FLEABANE, HARD BOILED EGGS, ONIONS, [everything] CHOPPED FINE, SPRINKLE EVERYTHING [over the pig which has been taken out of the water and allowed to drip off] AND SEASON WITH A PINT OF BROTH, ONE MEASURE OF OIL, ONE OF RAISIN WINE, AND SO PRESENT IT [1].

[1] We would first mix the liquid components of this
dressing with the chopped ingredients and then spread
the finished dressing over the pig. Our author, no
doubt, had this very process in mind.

XXIV

[492] PICKLED SUCKLING PIG
_PORCELLUM OXYZOMUM_ [1]

GARNISH [prepare and marinate] THE PIG CORRECTLY AND PLACE IT IN A LIQUOR PREPARED AS FOLLOWS: PUT IN THE MORTAR 50 GRAINS OF PEPPER, AS MUCH HONEY [2] AS IS REQUIRED, 3 DRY ONIONS, A LITTLE GREEN OR DRY CORIANDER, A PINT OF BROTH, 1 SEXTARIUS OF OIL, 1 PINT OF WATER; [all this] PUT IN A STEW PAN [braisière] PLACE THE PIG IN IT; WHEN IT COMMENCES TO BOIL, STIR THE GRAVY QUITE FREQUENTLY [3] SO AS TO THICKEN IT. SHOULD THE BROTH THUS BE REDUCED [by evaporation] ADD ANOTHER PINT OF WATER. IN THIS MANNER COOK [braise] THE PIG TO PERFECTION AND SERVE IT.

[1] _exodionum_, and in the Summary of Dishes,
_exozome_, i.e. _oxyzomum_. It is curious to note the
various spellings and meanings of _oxyzomum_. This is
supposed to be a sour sauce or an acid preparation of
some kind, yet this recipe does not mention acids. In
fact, the presence of honey would make it a sweet
preparation. We take it, the "garnish" contains the
necessary vinegar or other acids such as lemon juice,
wine, etc. _Oxyzomum_ is properly rendered "pickle."

[2] Dann. oil, occurring twice in his version.

[3] _sæpius_; Dann. confusing _sæpe_ with _cæpa_,
renders this "onions sauce." The same occurs to him in
XXVII.

XXV

[493] PIG WITH LASER
_PORCELLUM LASARATUM_

IN THE MORTAR POUND PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, A LITTLE CUMIN, LIVE LASER, LASER ROOT, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, ADD PINE NUTS, FIGDATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, PREPARED MUSTARD, FINISH WITH OIL TO TASTE, AND POUR OVER [the roast pig].

XXVI

[494] PIG IN SAUCE
_PORCELLUM IUSCELLATUM_

IN THE MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, OR ANISE, CORIANDER, RUE, A LAUREL BERRY, POUND [all], MOISTENING WITH BROTH, [add] LEEKS, RAISIN WINE, OR A LITTLE HONEY, A LITTLE WINE, AND A LIKE AMOUNT OF OIL. WHEN THIS HAS BEEN COOKED TIE WITH ROUX.

XXVII

[495] PLAIN LAMB [1]
_AGNUM SIMPLICEM_

OF THE SKINNED LAMB MAKE SMALL CUTLETS WHICH WASH CAREFULLY AND ARRANGE IN A SAUCE PAN, ADD OIL, BROTH, WINE, LEEKS, CORIANDER CUT WITH THE KNIFE; WHEN IT COMMENCES TO BOIL, STIR VERY FREQUENTLY [2] AND SERVE.

[1] Unquestionably the ancient equivalent for "Irish
Stew."

[2] Cf. note 3 to {Rx} 492, XXIV; the presence of onion,
however, would do no harm here.

XXVIII

[496] KID WITH LASER
_HÆDUM LASARATUM_

THE WELL-CLEANED GUTS OF A KID FILL WITH [a preparation of] PEPPER, BROTH, LASER, OIL [1], AND PUT THEM BACK INTO THE CARCASS WHICH SEW TIGHTLY AND THUS COOK [roast] THE KID [whole]. WHEN DONE PUT IN THE MORTAR RUE, LAUREL BERRIES, AND THEN SERVE THE KID WHICH MEANWHILE HAS BEEN RETIRED FROM THE POT WITH ITS OWN DRIPPINGS OR GRAVY.

[1] There being only liquids for this filling of the
guts, a more solid substance, such as pork forcemeat,
eggs, or cereals would be required to make an acceptable
filling for the casings of the kid. Furthermore sausage,
for such is this in fact, must be thoroughly cooked
before it can be used for the filling of the carcass, as
not sufficient heat would penetrate the interior during
the roasting to cook any raw dressing.

XXIX

[497] THRUSH "À LA SANTÉ"
_TURDOS HAPANTAMYNOS_ [1]

CRUSH PEPPER, LASER, LAUREL BERRY, MIX IN CUMIN [2] GARUM AND STUFF THE THRUSH [with this preparation, [3]] THROUGH THE THROAT [4], TYING THEM WITH A STRING. THEREUPON MAKE THIS PREPARATION IN WHICH THEY ARE COOKED: CONSISTING OF OIL, SALT, WATER [5], DILL AND HEADS OF LEEKS.

[1] Cf. Summary of Dishes; term not identified, derived
from the Greek, meaning to drive away all stomach ills.

[2] We use juniper berries today instead of cumin.

[3] Cf. note to {Rx} 496, XXVIII.

[4] Thrush and other game birds of such small size are
not emptied in the usual way: they are cooked with the
entrails, or, the intestines are taken out, seasoned,
sauté, and are either put back into the carcasses, or
are served separately on bread croutons. In this
instance, the necessary seasoning is introduced through
the throat, a most ingenious idea that can only occur to
Apicius.

[5] In other instances we have pointed out where a small
amount of water was used to clarify the oil used for
frying foods. The presence here of water leads us to
believe that the thrush were not "cooked," i.e. "boiled"
but that they were fried in a generous amount of oil;
this would make the ancient process remarkably similar
to the present European way of preparing thrush or
fieldfare, or similar game birds.

For water used to clarify oil see note 3 to {Rx} No.
250.

XXX

[498] TURTLEDOVES
_TURTURES_

OPEN THEM, PREPARE [marinate] CAREFULLY; CRUSH PEPPER, LASER, A LITTLE BROTH, IMMERSE THE DOVES IN THIS PREPARATION SO THAT IT WILL BE ABSORBED BY THEM, AND THUS ROAST THEM.

XXXI

[499] SAUCE FOR PARTRIDGE [1]
_IUS IN PERDICES_

CRUSH IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, CELERY, MINT, AND RUE; MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, ADD FIGDATE [wine], HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; LET IT BOIL LIKEWISE AND SERVE.

[1] This formula evidently is a fragment.

END OF THE SUMMARY OF DISHES [of the Excerpts of Vinidarius]

_EXPLI [cit] BREUIS CIBORUM_

[END OF THE RECIPES OF APICIUS]

{Illustration: TITLE PAGE, LISTER EDITION, AMSTERDAM, 1709

Lister's second edition was printed at Amsterdam, 1709, by very able printers, the Jansson-Wæsbergs. It is a very worthy book in every respect which, as M. Græsse says in Trésor des livres rares et précieux, may be included in the collection of the Variorum.}

{Transcription:

APICII C{OE}LII
DE
OPSONIIS
ET
CONDIMENTIS,
Sive
ARTE COQUINARIA,
LIBRI DECEM.
Cum Annotationibus
MARTINI LISTER,
è Medicis domesticis Serenissimæ Majestatis
Reginæ Annæ,
ET
Notis selectioribus, variisque lectionibus integris,
HUMELBERGII, BARTHII, REINESII,
A. VAN DER LINDEN, & ALIORUM,
ut & _Variarum Lectionum_ Libello.
EDITIO SECUNDA.
_Longe auctior atque emendatior._

{Decoration}

AMSTELODAMI,
Apud JANSSONIO-WÆSBERGIOS

MDCCIX.}

APICIANA

{Illustration: DIAGRAM

of Apicius Manuscripts and Printed Editions, showing relation to each other and indicating the sources of the present translation.}

{Transcription:

+=============+ +=========================+ +===============+ |MS | |MS | |MS | |ROME | |The | | | |Vatican Vrbin|-----|ARCHETYPUS FULDENSIS |------|Now in | |lat. 1146 | |* | |NEW YORK CITY | |* | |Formerly in the Monastery| |* | |9th Century | |of Fulda. Probably | |formerly | +=============+ |written prior to the | |CHELTENHAM | | \ \ |9th Century | |Bibl. Phillipps| | \ \ |(now lost) | |275 | | \ \ +=========================+ |9th Century | | \ \ +===============+ | \ \ / | | +---------+ \ \ +====================+ / | | |MS | | | |MS. PARIS lat. 10318| / | | |PARIS | | | |Apici Excerpta a | / | | |lat. 8209| | | |Vinidario v.i. 8th | / | | |15th | | | |Cent. | / | | |century | | | +====================+ / | | +---------+ | \ \ / | | | \ ------\ /--------------- | | | --- \ / \ | | +=================+ \ | \ | | | | | | \ | | | +-----------+ | | | \ | | | |MS | | | | \ | | | |FLORENCE | | | | \ / | | |Laur. 73.20| | | | \ / | | |15th | | | | | / | | |century | | | +---------+ | / +---------+ | +-----------+ | | |MS | | / |The | | | | |MUNICH | | | |HUMELBERG| | +------------+ | | |lat. 756 | | | |EDITION | | |MS | | | |Critinus | | | |Zürich | | |ROME, Vat | | | |1469 A.D.| | | |1542 | | |lat. 1145 | | | +---------+ | | +---------+ | |15th century| | | | | | | +------------+ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | +----------+ | | +------------+ | | | | |MS | | | |EDITIO | | | | | |FLORENCE | | | |PRINCEPS | | | +------------+ | |Laur. | |....|Venice, ca. | | | |The | | |Strozz. 67| | | |1485-1490 | | | |LISTER | | |15th cent | | | |from unknown| | | |EDITIONS | | +----------+ | | |codex | | | |London, 1705| | | | |(Honterus?) | | | |Amsterdam | | | | +------------+ | | |1709 | | | | | | +------------+ | +---------+ | | | | | | | |MS | | | | | | | | |FLORENCE | | | | | | | | |Ricc. 141| | | \ / | | | |15th | | | \ / | | | |century | | | \ / | | | +---------+ | | \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | +---------+ | | +-----------+ / \ / | | |MS | | | |The | / \ / | | |FLORENCE | | | |LANCILOTUS-| / \ / | | |Ricc. 622| |----|SIGNERRE |----------------- \ | | |15th | | | |EDITIONS, | / \/ \ | | |century | | | |Milan |\ / /\ \ | | +---------+ | | |1490 (?) | \ / / \ \ | | | | |1498 | \/ / \ \ | | | | +-----------+ /\ / \ \ | | | | | \ / \ \ | | +----------+ | | | +---------+ | | | | |MS | | | | |The | | | | | |OXFORD | | | | |BERNHOLD | | | | | |Bodl. Can.| | | | |Editions | | | | | |lat. 163 | | | | |1787-1800| | | | | |1490 | | | | +---------+ | | | | +----------+ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | +-----------+ | | +----------+ | | | |The | | | |The | | +----------+ | | |TORINUS | | | |SCHUCH | | |MS | | | |EDITIONS: | | | |EDITIONS | | |OXFORD | |....|Basel-Lyons| | \ |Heidelberg| | |Bodl. Ad | | | |1541 | | \ |1867-1874 | | |B. 110 | | | |from codex | | \ +----------+ | |15th cent.| | | |found by |------------ \ | | +----------+ | | |Torinus | | \ \ | | | | +-----------+ | \ \ | | | | | \ \ | | +---------+ | | +--------+ | \ \ | | |MS | | | |The | | \ \ | | |CESENA | | | |BASEGGIO| | \ \ | | |151. mun.| |----|Edition,| | \ \ | | |14th | | | |Venice | | \ \ | | |century | | | |1852 |------------------- \ \ | | +---------+ | | +--------+ | \ \ \ | | | | / \ \ \ | | +---------+ | \ +-----------+/ \ +-----------+ | |MS | | \ |The | \|The | | |ROME, Vat| | \|GIARRATANO-|--------------------|VEHLING | | |lat. 6803| | |VOLMER | |TRANSLATION| | |15th | | |Edition | |Chicago | | |century | | |Leipzig | |1926 | | +---------+ | |1922 | +-----------+ | | +-----------+ +=================+}

{Illustration: INCIPIT CONDITUM PARADOXUM

Opening recipe No. 1, Book 1, Apicius. From the manuscript of the 9th century in the Library of the Vatican at Rome.}

APICIANA

A Bibliography of Apician Manuscripts and Printed Editions

A. MANUSCRIPTS

SUMMARY OF MANUSCRIPTS

LOCATION NO. OF MS. BOOKS
New York, I 1
Rome, II, IV and XVII 3
Paris, III and V 2
Florence, VI, VII, VIII and IX 4
Oxford, X and XI 2
Cesena, XII 1
Munich, XVIII 1
Not accounted for, XIII, XIV, XV, XVI 4
--
Total of manuscript books 18

(Doubtful as to present location, the Codex Humelbergii, cf. XI, Oxford)

DESCRIPTION OF MANUSCRIPTS

I, 9TH CENTURY

New York, Library of the Academy of Medicine, until 1930 in Cheltenham, Gloucester, Biblioth. Phillipps, 275, in the library of Sir Thomas Phillipps, a codex ca. Ninth century, 4to, parchment, 275 pp., originally bound up with Phill. 386, which is said to have come from the Benedictine Abbey of St. Ghislain, founded at the end of the 7th century in the diocese of Cambrai; partly in Continental, but mostly in Anglo-Saxon minuscle of the 9th century, not unlike the Anglo-Saxon minuscle of Fulda.

Title missing. Cf. Vollmer, Studien, pp. 5-6.

The writer who has hastily inspected the manuscript in 1931 is of the opinion that three different hands wrote this book. Part of the index is gone, too. The book commences with lib. VII of the index. Bound in an 18th century French full leather binding. It was brought to America by Dr. Margaret B. Wilson and presented to the library of the A. of M. in 1931.

II, 9TH CENTURY

Rome, Vatican Library. Vat. Vrbinas, lat. 1146, Ninth century. 58 sheets, 2 blanks in the beginning and 2 at the end. Size 23.75 × 18.75 cm., heavy parchment, 20-21 lines to the page, not numbered. Sheet 1 R, illuminated by square panel in purple and gold letters (capit. quadr.) IN{=C}{=P} || API || CÆ ||--Nothing else. Sheet 1 V--3 R the title, EPIM e || LES LI || BER I, and the titles of Book I, illuminated with columns, flowers and birds. Sheet 3 R between the foot of the columns EXPLICIVNT CAPITVLA. Sheet 3 V a panel in purple similar to sheet 1 R with inscription, IN{=C}{=P} || CONDIT{=V} || PARADOX{=V}. Sheet 4 R commences the text with the title, I, Conditum Paradoxum. Captions, marginal figures and initials in red. The captions are written in good uncials throughout, the first text words usually in half uncials, continuing in an even and beautiful minuscle. The Explicits and Incipits invariably in capitalis rustica. Sheet 58 V end of text with EXPLICIT LIBER X.

Traube, Vollmer and others believe that this manuscript was written in or in the vicinity of Tours in the 9th century.

III, 8TH CENTURY

Paris, lat. 10318. 8th century. Codex Salmasianus, pp. 196-203, Apici excerpta a Vinidario vir. inl. (See illustration.)

Excerpts from Apicius, 31 formulæ not found in the traditional Apicius and quite different in character. Cf. Notes on Vinidarius, preceding the Excerpta which follow the end of Book X of Apicius.

IV, 15TH CENTURY

Rome, Vatican Library, Vat. Vrbinas, lat. 1145, parchment, 15th century. 51 sheets, 20 lines to the page, title, Apicius.

V, 15TH CENTURY

Paris, lat. 8209, paper, 15th century. 131 sheets, 30 lines to the page.

VI, 15TH CENTURY

Florence, Laur. 73, 20. 15th century. 84 sheets, 26 lines to the page.

VII, 15TH CENTURY

Florence, Laur. Strozz. 67, 15th century. 50 sheets, 23 lines to the page. Title, Apicius.

VIII, 15TH CENTURY

Florence, Riccardianus, 141 (L III 29), paper, 179 sheets, irregular number of lines, pp. 123-179, Apicius. 15th century.

IX, 1462

Florence, Riccardianus, 662 (M I 26), finished April 4th, 1462, paper, 79 sheets, 26 lines to the page. Pp. 41-79 Apicius, written by Pascutius Sabinus, Bologna, 1462.

X, 1490

Oxford, Bodl. Canon, lat. 168 4to min. 78 pp. dated May 28th, 1490. (_In fine_) scriptum per me Petrum Antonium Salandum Reginensem die xxviii Maii MCCCCLXXXX.

XI, 15TH CENTURY