Chapter XIX: Book X: The Fisherman 1 (2)

Oxford, Bodl. Add. B 110, 15th century, Italian, cf. H. Schenkl, Bibl. Britann. I. p. 79 n. 384 and F. Madan, A Summary Catalogue of Western Mss. in the Bodleian Library, Oxford, 1905, p. 660. Vollmer says that this Ms. belonged to a son of Humelbergius, as proven by P. Lehmann.

XII, 14TH CENTURY

Cesena, bibl. municip., 14th century.

XIII

A manuscript in the library of the Sforza brothers at Pesaro which burned in 1514, known only from the catalogue. Cf. A. Vernarecci, La Libreria di Gio. Sforza in Archivio storico per le Marche e l'Umbria, III, 1886, 518, 790.

XIV

A manuscript used by Bonifaz Amerbach and Joh. Sichardus. Cf. P. Lehman, Joh. Sichardus, Quellen und Untersuchungen, IV, 1, p. 204.

XV-XVI

The two manuscripts mentioned by Albanus Torinus, in his edition of Apicius, Basel, 1541. In 1529 Torinus found an Apicius "codex" on the island of Megalona (Maguellone) which he used for his edition of Apicius. It is almost certain that this was not a very ancient manuscript. The way Torinus speaks of it and of the (first) Venetian printed edition in his _epistola dedicatoria_ leaves even doubt as to whether his authority was handwritten or printed. A first edition, printed ca. 1483, may have well been a dilapidated copy such as Torinus describes in 1529. Torinus admits taking some liberties with the text and failed to understand some phrases of it. Despite this fact, his text, from a culinary point of view seems to be more authentic than the Humelbergius and Lister versions.

The other codex according to Torinus, was found in Transsylvania by Io. Honterus of Coronea. This codex may have served as authority for the first edition printed ca. 1483 by Bernardinus, of Venice. No other mention is made of this codex anywhere, which according to Torinus, was sent to Venice from Transsylvania. The text of the Editio Princeps, by the way, is thoroughly unreliable.

XVII, 15TH CENTURY

Ms. Rome, Vatican Library, lat. 6803, 15th Century.

XVIII, 15TH CENTURY

Munich, lat. 756. Ex bibl. Petri Victorii 49. 15th century. This codex is particularly valuable and important for the identification of the Apicius text. Cf. Vollmer, Studien, pp. 10 _seq._

B. PRINTED EDITIONS

SUMMARY OF PRINTED EDITIONS

NO. YEAR OF PUBLICATION PLACE OF PUBLICATION LANGUAGE
1 ca. A.D. 1483(?) Venice, Italy Latin
2 A.D. 1490(?) Milan, Italy (doubtful) Latin
3 A.D. 1498 Milan, Italy Latin
4 A.D. 1503 Venice, Italy Latin
5 A.D. 1541 Basel, Switzerland Latin
6 A.D. 1541 Lyons, France Latin
7 A.D. 1542 Zürich, Switzerland Latin
8 A.D. 1705 London, England Latin
9 A.D. 1709 Amsterdam, Holland Latin
10 A.D. 1787 Marktbreit, Germany Latin
11 A.D. 1791 Lübeck, Germany Latin
12 A.D. 1800 Ansbach, Germany Latin
13 A.D. 1852 Venice, Italy Italian
14 A.D. 1867 Heidelberg, Germany Latin
15 A.D. 1874 Heidelberg, Germany Latin
16 A.D. 1909 Leipzig, Germany German
17 A.D. 1911 Leipzig, Germany German
18 A.D. 1922 Leipzig, Germany Latin
19 A.D. 1933 Paris, France French
20 A.D. 1936 Chicago, U. S. A. English

COMMENTARIES ON APICIUS

NO. YEAR OF PUBLICATION PLACE OF PUBLICATION LANGUAGE
21 A.D. 1531* Frankfurt, Germany Latin
22 A.D. 1534* Frankfurt, Germany Latin
23 A.D. 1535* Antwerp, Belgium Latin
24 A.D. 1831 Heidelberg, Germany German
25 A.D. 1868 London, England English
26 A.D. 1912 Naples, Italy Italian
27 A.D. 1920 Munich, Germany German
28 A.D. 1921 Rome, Italy Latin-Italian
29 A.D. 1927 Leipzig, Germany German

* Excerpts and adaptations have little relation to Apicius.

Total of Printed Editions, in Latin 15
Total of Printed Editions, in Italian 1
Total of Printed Editions, in German 2
Total of Printed Editions, in French 1
Total of Printed Editions, in English 1
Total of Commentaries in all Languages 9

Editions and Commentaries published in America 1
Editions and Commentaries published in Belgium 1
Editions and Commentaries published in England 2
Editions and Commentaries published in France 2
Editions and Commentaries published in Germany 13
Editions and Commentaries published in Holland 1
Editions and Commentaries published in Italy 7
Editions and Commentaries published in Switzerland 2

BIBLIOGRAPHERS AND COLLECTORS

Albanus Torinus, 1541, describes Mss. XV and XVI.

A. Vernarecci describes Mss. XIII.

P. Lehmann describes Mss. XI and XIV.

F. Vollmer describes Mss. I-XVIII.

Dr. Margaret B. Wilson describes Ms. I.

Georges Vicaire describes editions Nos. 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 14, 15.

Theodor Drexel (Georg) describes editions Nos. 1, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15.

Elizabeth R. Pennell describes editions Nos. 1, 3, 9.

Bernhold describes editions Nos. 2, 10, 11, 12.

Fabricius describes edition No. 2.

Baron Pichon describes editions Nos. 3, 21.

In the author's collection are editions Nos. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 23, 27, 28, 29.

DESCRIPTION OF PRINTED EDITIONS

These summaries and descriptions of the known manuscript books and printed editions of Apicius are presented with a desire to afford the students a survey of the field treated in this volume, to illustrate the interest that has existed throughout the past centuries in our ancient book.

Copies of any Apicius edition and commentaries are scarce; famous collectors pride themselves in owning one or several of them. Of the well-known collections of cookery books the most outstanding perhaps is that of Theodor Drexel, of Frankfurt on the Main, who owned nine different editions of Apicius. The Drexel catalogue forms the basis of a bibliography--Verzeichnis der Litteratur über Speise und Trank bis zum Jahre 1887, bearbeitet von Carl Georg, Hannover, 1888, describing some 1700 works.

The Drexel collection, combined with that of Dr. Freund, is now in the Staatsbibliothek in Berlin and is undoubtedly the finest collection of its kind.

Another famous collection of cookery books is described in My Cookery Books, by Elizabeth Robins Pennell, Boston, 1903, listing three of the Apicii.

The Pennell collection was destroyed by a flood in London while being stored away in a warehouse during the world war.

The most important bibliography, well-known to bibliophiles, is the Bibliographie gastronomique par Georges Vicaire, Paris, 1890. Vicaire mentions eleven Apicius editions.

The Baron Pichon and the Georges Vicaire collections are both dispersed.

Despite ardent efforts over a period of many years the writer has been unable to secure either an Apicius manuscript or the editions No. 1 and 2. The existence of No. 2 on our list is doubtful. Therefore, we do not pretend having inspected or read each and every edition described herein, but by combining the efforts of the authorities here cited we have gathered the following titles and descriptions in order to present a complete survey of the Apician literature.

NO. 1 CA. A.D. 1483, VENICE

APITII CELII DE RE COQUINARIA LIBRI DECEM || SUETONIUS
TR{=A}QUILLUS DE CLARIS GR{=A}MATICIS. || SUETONIUS
TR{=A}QUILLUS DE CLARIS RHETORIBUS || COQUINARIÆ CAPITA
GRÆCA AB APITIO POSITA HÆC SUNT || EPIMELES, (_Etc. In
fine_) IMPRESSUM VENETIIS PER BERNARDINUM VENETUM.

No date, but attributed to ca. 1483-6. Given as the earliest edition by most authorities. 4to, old vellum, 30 sheets, the pages not numbered. Georg-Drexel, No. 13; Pennell, p. 111; Vicaire, col. 29.

NO. 2, MILAN, A.D. 1490

APICIUS CULINARIS (_sic_) (CURA BLASII LANCILOTI _In
fine_) IMPRESSUM MEDIOLANI PER MAGISTRUM GUILIERUM DE
SIGNERRE ROTHOMAGENSEM. ANNO DOMINI M CCCC LXXXX DIE
VIII MENSIS JANUARII.

Large 8vo. Edition disputed by bibliographers.

Ex Bernhold, _præfatio_, p. IX, who (we are translating from his Latin text) says, "Here is the exterior of the book as extant in the Nuremberg library, most accurately and neatly described by the very famous and most worthy physician of that illustrious republic, Dr. Preus, a friend of mine for thirty years; whose integrity, of course, is above reproach; these are his own words--The book is made in the size called large octavo. It must be mentioned that the sheets are indeed large, so that the size might be styled an ordinary quarto. Fabricius, in his Bibliotheca, the newest edition, quotes a copy under this name. The entire book consists of five parts [sheets, folded into eight leaves--sixteen printed pages--stitched together] and two leaves. These five parts contain the text proper; these two sheets preceding them, are occupied by the title page, the dedication and a kind of poetic address. The text itself commences with p. 5, I should say, though there is no regular pagination. However, there are nevertheless in the lower ends of the leaves, called the limp parts, some conspicuous letters on the first four leaves of the sheets, while the remaining four leaves though belonging to the respective parts, are blank. For instance aI., aII., aIII., aIIII. Then follows the next sheet or part, signed, bI., II., III., IIII. in the same manner, with the four following leaves blank. And thus in the same manner follows sheet c, d, e. The two leaves preceding the five parts which comprise the text proper, contain the title of the book, Apicius Culinaris [_sic_] nowhere, to be sure, appears a note of the place or the date where and when the book was made, and on this whole first page, aside from the words already noted, there is nothing else in evidence than the picture of an angel, in the center of which there is the sign, IHS, and around the circle the following words are read, 'Joannes de Lagniano M.' At the feet of the angel spaces may be seen that are inscribed with the letters, I.O.L. The next page, or the verso of the title page, exhibits the dedication of Blasius Lancilotus, extending to the upper part of the third page. On this very same page occurs the poem by Ludovicus Vopiscus, addressed to Joannes Antonius Riscius, comprising five very beautiful distichs. The remaining part of the third page is finished off with the word, 'Finis,' while the fourth page is entirely blank. The text of Apicius commences with the fifth, as mentioned above, and from now on the leaves are numbered by letters, as previously described. At the end of the text, on the last page of the book, a poem is conspicuous, entitled, 'Antonius Mota to the Public,' consisting of four neat distichs, followed by another composition, containing five distichs by Joannes Salandus. And conclusion of the entire work is made with these words, 'Printed at Milan by Master Guiliermus de Signerre Rothomagensis, in the year of the Lord 1490, on the 8th day of the month of January.'

"From this edition, the oldest as well as the rarest--with no other known earlier edition--all the variants given herewith have been collected by Goezius." Thus far Bernhold.

The existence of this edition is doubted by Brunet, according to Vicaire. This ancient description corresponds substantially to that of Vicaire of the following edition of 1498 which Vicaire proclaims to be the first dated Apicius edition. It is interesting to note, however, what Bernhold has to say of this 1498 edition.

"Without a doubt a repetition of the preceding edition," says he; and he goes on quoting the Bibliotheca Latina Fabricio-Ernestina (Jo. Alberti Fabricii Bibliothec. Latin. edit ab Ernesti 1708) to the effect that two editions were printed at Milan, one of 1490 by Blasius Lancilotus and one of 1498 by Guiliermus de Signerre Rothomagensis.

Our inquiry at the Municipal library of Nürnberg has revealed the fact that this copy of 1490 is no longer in the possession of the library there.

NO. 3, A.D. 1498, MILAN

APICIUS CULINARIUS (_in fine_) IMPRESSUM MEDIOLANI PER
MAGISTRUM GUILERUM SIGNERRE ROTHOMAGENSEM, ANNO DNI
MCCCCLXXXXVIII, DIE XX, MENSIS IANUARII.

(Ex Pennell, p. 111) First dated edition, 4to, 40 sheets, pages not numbered.

{Illustration: COLOPHON, MILAN EDITION, 1498

From the Lancilotus edition of Apicius, printed by Signerre, Milan, 1498, the first dated edition. The poems by Mota and Salandus are identical with the colophon of the 1503 Venice edition.

Note the date of this colophon and observe how easily it can be read for "the 8th day of January, 1490" which date is attributed to our Apiciana No. 2. This edition, as is noted, is doubtful, although several bibliographers speak about it.}

{Transcription:

Antonius mota Ad vulgus.

Plaudite sartores: cætari: plaudite ventres
Plaudite mystili tecta per vncta coqui
Pila sit albanis quæcunq; ornata lagænis
Pingue suum copo limen obesus amet
Occupat insubres altissimus ille nepotum
Gurges & vndantes auget & vrget aquas
Millia sex ventri qui fixit Apicius alto
Inde timens: sumpsit dira venena: famem.

Ioannes salandus lectori.

Accipe quisquis amas irritamenta palati:
Precepta: & leges: oxigarumq; nouum:
Condiderat caput: & stygias penitrauerat vndas
Celius: in lucem nec rediturus erat:
Nunc teritur dextra versatus Apicius omni
Vrbem habet: & tectum qui perigrinus erat:
Acceptum motte nostro debebis: & ipsi
Immortalis erit gratia: laus & honor:
Per quem non licuit celebri caruisse nepote:
Per quem dehinc fugiet lingua latina situm.

Impressum Mediolani per magistrum Guilermum
Signerre Rothomagensem Anno d{=n}i. Mcccclxxxx
viii.die.xx.mensis Ianuarii.}

This copy has on the fly leaf the book plate of "Georgius Klotz, M.D. Francofurti ad M{oe}num" and the autograph of John S. Blackie, 1862.

Bernhold, p. XI. Not in Georg-Drexel. Vicaire, 28; he reads Appicius [_sic_] Culinarius. Pennell and Vicaire read Guilerum, Bernhold Guilierum.

Vicaire's description of this edition tallies with that of Bernhold's and his collaborator's account of the preceding edition. There are certain copies of this edition, bearing the following titles, Apicius de re coquinaria and Apicivs in re qvoqvinaria. Cf. Vicaire, 28-29.

NOTES TO NOS. 1, 2, AND 3

GESAMTKATALOG DER WIEGENDRUCKE, Leipzig, 1926, II, p. 510, places as the first printed edition Apicius in re quoquinaria [_sic_] printed by William de Signerre at Milan, on the 20th day of January, 1498. The second place is given APICIUS DE RE COQUINARIA printed by Bernardinus de Vitalibus at Venice, no date, circa 1500 (our No. 1). This classification follows that of Brunet in 1840. Neither the Gesamtkatalog nor Brunet make any mention whatsoever of the doubtful 1490 Milan edition (our No. 2).

Vicaire, col. 33, mentioning this edition citing Bernhold, quotes Brunet as doubting the existence of this 1490 edition, but we fail to notice this expression of doubt since our Brunet is altogether silent on the subject, same as the other bibliographers.

Vicaire, col. 28-29, quotes Brunet as saying that the undated Apicius (our No. 1) despite its sub-titles of Suetonius, contains only the Apicius text, a statement confirmed by Pennell.

A search of all the available works of Joh. Alb. Fabricius--Bibliotheca Latina [Classics], Hamburg, 1722, Bibliographia Antiquaria, ib. 1760 and the Bibliotheca Latina mediæ et infimæ [middle ages], ib. 1735, has failed to reveal a trace of the 1490 Apicius, displayed by Bernhold, as described by Fabricius and as seen by Preus in the Nürnberg Municipal Library.

Our facsimile of the 1498 colophon shows how easily its date can be mistaken for "the 8th day of January, 1490," Bernhold's very date! Evidently an error of this kind made victims of Preus, Bernhold and Fabricius (if, indeed, he quoted it) and caused us some ardent searching among dusty tomes. We have therefore come to the conclusion that either this 1490 edition disappeared between the year 1787 and our time or else that it never existed.

NO. 4, A.D. 1503, VENICE

APITII CELII DE RE COQUINARIA LIBRI DECEM. || COQUINARIÆ
CAPITA GRÆCA AB APITIO POSITA HÆC SUNT. || EPIMELES:
ARTOPTUS: CEPURICA: PANDECTER: OSPRION || TROPHETES:
POLYTELES: TETRAPUS: THALASSA: HALIEUS || HANC PLATO
ADULATRICEM MEDICINÆ APPELLAT || [_in fine_] IMPRESSUM
UENETIIS P IOHANNEM DE CERETO DE TRIDINO ALIAS TACUINUM.
M.CCCCC.III. DIE TERTIO MENSIS AUGUSTI.

4to, 32 sheets, 30 lines to the page, pages not numbered, signed a-h, by 4.

{Illustration: TITLE PAGE, VENICE EDITION, 1503

From the Blasius Lancilotus edition, printed by Johannes de Cereto de Tridino alias Tacuinus, Venice, 1503. This is the second dated edition of Apicius, resembling very closely the undated edition and also the Milan edition, printed by Signerre 1498, the first to bear a date. Same size as the original. This is a first timid attempt at giving a book a title page. Most books printed before this date have no title pages.}

{Transcription:

Apitii Celii de re Coquinaria libri decem.

Coquinariæ capita Græca ab Apitio posita hæc sunt.
Epimeles: Artoptus: Cepurica: Pandecter: Osprion
Trophetes: Polyteles: Tetrapus: Thalassa: Halieus.
Hanc Plato adulatricem medicinæ appellat.}

On the last page of our copy are the two poems mentioned in the 1490 Milan edition (No. 2) "Antonius mota ad uulgus" (4 distichs) and "Iohannes salandi Lectori" (5 distichs). The verso of this page is blank. The dedication, on the verso of title page, is likewise by Blasius Lancilotus. It appears that this edition is closely related to No. 2.

Vicaire, 30; unknown to Georg-Drexel and Pennell.

In the collection of the author.

NO. 5, A.D. 1541, BASEL

CÆLII APITII || SVMMI ADVLATRICIS MEDI || CINÆ ARTIFICIS
DE RE CVLINARIA LIBRI X. RE || CENS È TENEBRIS ERUTI & À
MENDIS UINDICATI, || TYPISQUE SVMMA DILIGENTIA ||
EXCUSI. || PRÆTEREA, || P. PLATINÆ CREMO || NENSIS VIRI
UNDECVNQVE DO || CTISSIMI, DE TUENDA UALETUDINE, NATURA
RERUM, & POPINÆ || SCIENTIA LIBRI X. AD IMITATIONEM C.
API || TII AD UNGUEM FACTI. || AD HÆC, || PAVLI ÆGINETÆ
DE || FACVLTATIBUS ALIMENTORVM TRA || CTATVS, ALBANO
TORINO || INTERPRETE. || CUM INDICE COPIOSISSIMO. ||
BASILEÆ || M.D.XLI. [_in fine_] BASILEÆ, MENSE MARTIO,
ANNO M D X L I.

4to, old calf, 16 pp., containing title, dedication and index, not numbered but signed in Greek letters. The body of the work commences with p. 1, finishing with p. 366, the sheets are signed first in small Roman letters a-z and numbers 1-3 and then in capital letters A-Z, likewise numbered 1-3. The titles of the books or chapters, on verso of the title page, under the heading of "Katalogos et Epigraphè Decem Voluminum De Re Popinali C. Apitii" are both in Greek and Roman characters. German names and quotations are in Gothic type (black letter). The book is well printed, in the style of the Froschauer or Oporinus press, but bears no printer's name or device.

The Apicius treatise is concluded on p. 110, and is followed by "Appendicvla De Conditvris Variis ex Ioanne Damasceno, Albano Torino Paraphraste," not mentioned on the title. This treatise extends from p. 110 to p. 117, comprising fourteen recipes for "condimenta" and "conditvræ"; these are followed on the same page by "De Facvltatibvs Alimentorvm Ex Pavlo Ægineta, Albano Torino Interprete" which book is concluded on p. 139; but with hardly any interruption nor with any very conspicuous title on this page there follows the work of Platina: "P. [_sic_] Platinæ Cremonensis, viri vndecvnqve doctissimi, De tuenda ualetudine Natura rerum, & Popinæ scientia, ad amplissimum D.D.B. Rouerellam S. Clementis presbyterum, Cardinalem, Liber I." The ten books of Platina are concluded on p. 366; the type gracefully tapering down with the words: "P. [_sic_] Platinæ libri decimi et vltimi Finis" and the date, as mentioned. The last page blank.

{Illustration: TITLE PAGE, LYONS, 1541

This edition, printed in Lyons, France, in 1541, by Sebastian Gryphius is said to have been pirated from the Torinus edition given at Basel in the same year. Early printers stole copiously from one another, frequently reproduced books with hundreds of illustrations with startling speed. Gryphius corrected Torinus' spelling of "P" [Bartholomæus] Platina, but note the spelling of "Lvg[v]dvni" (Lyons). Inscription by a contemporary reader over the griffin: "This [book] amuses me! Why make fun of me?"}

{Transcription:

CÆLII
APITII, SVMMI
ADVLATRICUS
MEDICINÆ ARTIFICIS,
De re Culinaria libri
Decem.

{Handwriting}

B. PLATINÆ CREMONENSIS
_De Tuenda ualetudine, Natura rerum, & Popinæ
scientia Libri x._

PAVLI ÆGINETÆ DE FACULTATIBUS
_alimentorum Tractatus,
Albano Torino Interprete_.

{Handwriting}

{Decoration}

APVD SEB. GRYPHIVM
LVGVDVNI,
1541.}

Strange enough, there is another edition of this work, bearing the same editor's name, printed at Lyons, France, in the same year. This edition, printed by Gryphius, bears the abbreviated title as follows:

NO. 6, A.D. 1541, LYONS

CÆLII || APITII SVM || MI ADVLATRICIS || MEDICINÆ
ARTIFICIS, || DE RE CULINARIA LIBRI || DECEM || B.
PLATINÆ CREMONEN || SIS DE TUENDA UALETUDINE, NATURA
RERUM & POPINÆ || SCIENTIA LIBRI X, || PAULI ÆGINETÆ DE
FACULTATIBUS ALIMENTORUM TRACTATUS, || ALBANO TORINO
INTER || PRETE.

The lower center of the title page is occupied by the Gryphius printer's device, a griffin standing on a box-like pedestal, supported by a winged globe. On the left of the device: "virtute duci," on the right: "comite fortuna"; directly underneath: "Apvd Seb. Gryphivm, Lvgvdvni [_sic_], 1541." Sm. 8vo. Pages numbered, commencing with verso of title from 2-314. Sheets lettered same as Basel edition; on verso of title "Katalogos" etc. exactly like Basel. Page 3 commences with the same epistola dedicatoria. This dedication and the entire corpus of the book is printed in an awkward Italic type, except the captions which are in 6 pt. and 8 pt. Roman. The book is quite an unpleasant contrast with the fine Antiqua type and the generous margins of the Basel edition. Some woodcut initials but of small interest. The index, contrary to Basel, is in the back. The last page shows another printer's device, differing from that on the title, another griffin.

This edition, though bearing Platina's correct initial, B., has the fictitious title given to his work by Torinus, who probably possessed one of the earliest editions of Platina's De honesta Voluptate, printed without a title page.

Altogether, this Lyons edition looks very much like a hurried job, and we would not be surprised to learn that it was pirated from the Basel edition.

The epistola dedicatoria, in which Torinus expresses fear of pirates and asks his patron's protection, is concluded with the date, Basileæ, v. Idus Martias, Anno M. D. XLI., while the copy described by Vicaire appears to be without this date. Vicaire also says that the sheets of his copy are not numbered. He also reads on the title "Lvgdvni, 1541" which is spelled correctly, but not in accordance with the original. Of these two editions Vicaire says:

"Ces deux éditions portent la même date de 1541, mais celle qui a été publiée à Bâle a paru avant celle donnée à Lyon par Seb. Gryphe. Cette dernière, en effet, contient la dédicace datée." The title page of our copy is inscribed by three different old hands, one the characteristic remark: "Mulcens me, gannis?" This copy is bound in the original vellum. Vicaire, 31, G.-Drexel, No. 12.

The work of Torinus has been subjected to a searching analysis, as will be shown throughout the book. An appreciation of Platina will be found in Platina, mæstro nell'arte culinaria Un'interessante studio di Joseph D. Vehling, by Agostino Cavalcabò, Cremona, 1935.

{Illustration: TITLE PAGE, HUMELBERGIUS EDITION, ZÜRICH, 1542

The Gabriel Humelbergius edition is printed by Froschauer, one of the great printers of the Renaissance. Showing the autograph of Johannes Baptista Bassus. The best of the early Apicius editions.}

{Transcription:

IN HOC OPERE CONTENTA

APICII CÆLII

DE OPSONIIS ET CONDIMENTIS,
SIVE ARTE COQVINARIA
LIBRI X.

ITEM,

Gabrielis Humelbergij Medici, Physici
Isnensis in Apicij Cælij libros X.
Annotationes.

TIGVRI IN OFFICINA
Froschouiana. Anno,
M. D. XLII.

{Handwriting}

{Signature: Johannes Baptista Bassus.}}

NO. 7, A.D. 1542, ZÜRICH

IN HOC OPERE CONTENTA. || APICII CÆLII || DE OPSONIIS ET
CONDIMENTIS, || SIVE ARTE COQVINA || RIA, LIBRI X. ||
ITEM, || GABRIELIS HUMELBERGIJ MEDICI, PHYSICI ||
ISNENSIS IN APICIJ CÆLIJ LIBROS X. || ANNOTATIONES. ||
TIGVRI IN OFFICINA || FROSCHOUIANA. ANNO, || M.D. XLII.

4to, 123 sheets, pagination commences with title, not numbered. On verso of title a poem by Ioachim Egell, extolling Humelberg. Sheet 2 the dedication, dated "Isnæ Algoiæ, mense Maio, Anno à Christo nato, M.D.XLII." Sheet 3-4 have the preface; on verso of 4 the names of the books of Apicius. On recto of sheet 5 the chapters of Book I; on verso commences the corpus of the work with Apicii Cælii Epimeles Liber I.

The Apicius text is printed in bold Roman, the copious notes by the editor in elegant Italics follow each book. Very instructive notes, fine margins, splendid printing. Altogether preferable to Torinus. Our copy is bound in the original vellum. Inscribed in old hand by Johannes Baptista Bassus on the title.

G.-Drexel, No. 14; Vicaire, 31; not in Pennell.

NO. 8, A.D. 1705, LONDON

APICII C{OE}LII || DE || OPSONIIS || ET || CONDIMENTIS,
|| SIVE || ARTE COQUINARIA, || LIBRI DECEM. || CUM
ANNOTATIONIBUS MARTINI LISTER, || È MEDICIS DOMESTICIS
SERENISSIMÆ MA || JESTATIS REGINÆ ANNÆ || ET || NOTIS
SELECTIORIBUS, VARIISQUE LECTIONIBUS INTEGRIS, ||
HUMELBERGII, CASPARI BARTHII, || & VARIORUM. || LONDINI:
|| TYPIS GULIELMI BOWYER. MDCCV.

The first edition by Lister, limited to 120 copies.

8vo. The title in red and black. Original full calf, gilt. Pp. XIV + 231. Index 11 leaves, unnumbered. This scarce book is described by Vicaire, 32, but unknown to the collectors Drexel and Pennell. Our copy has on the inside front cover the label of the Dunnichen library. Above the same in an old hand: "Liber rarissimus Hujus editionis 120 tantum exemplaria impressa sunt." On the fly leaf, in a different old hand a six line note in Latin, quoting the medieval scholar, G. J. Vossius, Aristarch. 1.13. p. 1336, on the authorship of C{oe}lius. Directly below in still another old hand, the following note, a rather pleasing passage, full of sentiment and affection for our subject, that deserves to be quoted in full: "Alas! that time is wanting to visit the island of Magellone [Megalona-Torinus] where formerly flourished a large town, of which there are now no other remains but the cathedral church, where, according to tradition, the beautiful Magellone lies buried by her husband Peter of Province.* Matthison's letters, etc. pag. 269.

"'* Jt was in the island of Magellone that Apicius's ten books on
cookery were rediscovered.' _Ibid._--Vide Fabric. Biblioth: Lat:
edit. ab Ernesti. vol. 2; p. 365."

On the verso of the title page there is the printed note in Latin to the effect that 120 copies of this edition have been printed at the expense of eighteen gentlemen whose names are given, among them "Isaac Newton, Esq." and other famous men.

{Illustration: TITLE PAGE, LISTER EDITION, LONDON, 1705

The first Apicius edition by Martin Lister, Court Physician to Queen Anne. Printed in London in 1705 by the famous printer, William Bowyer. This is one of the rarest of the Apician books, the edition being limited to 120 copies. It has been said that the second edition (Amsterdam, 1709) was limited to 100 copies, but there is no evidence to that effect.}

{Transcription:

APICIANA

APICII C{OE}LII
DE
OPSONIIS
ET
CONDIMENTIS,
Sive
Arte Coquinaria,
LIBRI DECEM.

Cum Annotationibus MARTINI LISTER,
è Medicis domesticis serenissimæ Majestatis
Reginæ Annæ.

ET

Notis selectioribus, variisque lectionibus integris,
HUMELBERGII, CASPARI BARTHII,
& VARIORUM.

LONDINI:
Typis _Gulielmi Bowyer_. MDCCV.}

Lister's preface to the reader occupies pp. I-XIV; the same appears in the 1709 (2nd) edition. The ten books of Apicius occupy pp. 1-231; the index comprises 11 unnumbered leaves; on the verso of the 11th leaf, the errata. One leaf for the "Catalogus" (not mentioned by Vicaire) a bibliography of the editor's extensive writings, and works used in this edition principally upon nature and medical subjects. This list was ridiculed by Dr. King. Cf. Introduction by Frederick Starr to this present work. The last leaf blank. Our copy is in the original binding, and perfect in every respect.

{Illustration: VERSO OF TITLE PAGE

of the first Lister edition, London, 1705, giving evidence of the edition being limited to 120 copies. This edition was done at the expense of the men named in this list. Note particularly "Isaac Newton, Esq.," Sir Christopher Wren and a few more names famous to this day.}

{Transcription:

_Hujus Libri_ centum & viginti _tantum_
Exemplaria _impressa sunt impensis infrascriptorum_.

Tho. _Lord A.B. of_ Canterbury.
Ch. _Earl of_ Sunderland.
J. _Earl of_ Roxborough, _Principal Secretary of State for_ Scotland.
J. _Lord_ Sommers.
Charles _Lord_ Hallifax.
J. _Lord Bishop of_ Norwich.
Ge. _Lord Bishop of_ Bath _and_ Wells.
Robert Harley _Speaker, and Principal Secretary of State_.
_Sir_ Richard Buckley, _Baronet_.
_Sir_ Christopher Wren.
Tho. Foley, _Esq_;
Isaac Newton, _Esq_; _President of the Royal Society_.
William Gore, _Esq_;
Francis Ashton, _Esq_;
_Mr._ John Flamstead, _Ast._ Reg.
John Hutton, }
Tancred Robinson, } _M. D. D._
Hans Sloane. }}

NO. 9, A.D. 1709, AMSTERDAM

APICII C{OE}LII || DE || OPSONIIS || ET || CONDIMENTIS,
|| SIVE || ARTE COQUINARIA, || LIBRI DECEM. || CUM
ANNOTATIONIBUS || MARTINI LISTER, || È MEDICIS
DOMESTICIS SERENISSIMÆ MAJE || STATIS REGINÆ ANNÆ, || ET
|| NOTIS SELECTIORIBUS, VARIISQUE LECTIONIBUS INTEGRIS,
|| HUMELBERGII, BARTHII, REINESII, || A. VAN DER LINDEN,
& ALIORUM, || UT & VARIARUM LECTIONUM LIBELLO. || EDITIO
SECUNDA. || LONGE AUCTIOR ATQUE EMENDATIOR. ||
AMSTELODAMI, || APUD JANSSONIO-WÆSBERGIOS. || M D C C I
X.

Small 8vo. Title in red and black. Dedication addressed to Martinus Lister by Theod. Jans. [sonius] of Almeloveen; the preface, M. Lister to the Reader, and the "Judicia et Testimonia de Apicio" by Olaus Borrichius and Albertus Fabricius occupy seventeen leaves. The ten books of Apicius, with the many notes by Lister, Humelberg and others, commence with page 1 and finish on page 277. Variæ Lectiones, 9 leaves; Index, 12 leaves, none numbered.

Vicaire, 32; Pennell, p. 112; G.-Drexel, No. 164. "Edition assez estimée. On peut l'annexer à la collection des Variorum d'après M. Græsse, Trésor des Livres rares et précieux."--Vicaire. Our copy is in the original full calf gold stamped binding, with the ex libris of James Maidment.

The notes by Lister are more copious in this edition, which is very esteemed and is said to have been printed in 100 copies only, but there is no proof of this.

Typographically an excellent piece of work that would have done justice the Elzevirs.

NO. 10, A.D. 1787, MARKTBREIT

CÆLII APICII || DE || OPSONIIS || ET || CONDIMENTIS ||
SIVE || ARTE COQUINARIA || LIBRI X || CUM || LECTIONIBUS
VARIIS || ATQUE INDICE || EDITIT || JOANNES MICHÆL
BERNHOLD || COMES PALATINATUS CÆSAREUS, PHIL. ET || MED.
D. SERENISSIMO MARCHIONI BRAN ||
DENBURGICO-ONOLDINO-CULBACENSI || A CONSILIIS AULÆ,
PHYSICUS SUPREMA || RUM PRÆFECTURARUM VFFENHEMENSIS ||
ET CREGLINGENSIS, ACADEMIÆ IMPERIALI || NATURÆ
SCRUTATORUM ADSCRIPTUS.

The first edition. The title page has a conspicuously blank space for the date etc. of the publication, but this is found at the foot of p. 81, where one reads: Marcobraitæ, Excudebat Joan. Val. Knenlein, M. D. CC. LXXXVII. 8vo. Fine large copy, bound in yellow calf, gilt, with dentelles on edges and inside, by J. Clarke, the binding stamped on back, 1800. Dedication and preface, pp. XIV. The ten books of Apicius commence with p. 1 and finish on p. 81, with the date, as above. Index capitulum, pp. 82-85; Lectiones Variantes collectæ ex Editione Blasii Lanciloti, pp. 86-108, at the end of same: "Sedulo hæ Variantes ex Blasii Lanciloti editione sunt excerpta ab Andrea Gözio Scholæ Sebaldinæ Norimbergiensis Collega." Variantes Lectiones, Lib. I. Epimeles, pp. 109-112, with a note at the head of the same that these variants occur in the Vatican MS. These four pages are repeated in the next chapter, pp. 113-130, "Variæ Lectiones Manuscripti Vaticani," headed by the same note, the text of which is herewith given in full. Bernhold states that these Variæ Lectiones have been taken from the second Lister edition (No. 8) where they are found following p. 277. The first Lister edition does not contain these Variæ, nor does Lister have the Variantes ex Blasii Lanciloti. The following note to the Vatican variants appears in the second Lister edition also:

"Apicii collatio cum antiquissimo codice, literis fere
iisdem, quibus Pandectæ Florentinæ, scripto; qui
seruatur hodie Romæ in Bibliotheca Vaticana, inter
libros MSS., qui fuere Ducis Vrbinatium, sed, nostris
temporibus extincta illa familia Ducali, quæ Ducatum
istum a Romanis Pontificibus in feudum tenuerat, Vrbino
Romam translati, et separato loco in bibliotheca
Vaticana respositi sunt. Contulit Henricus Volkmarus
[Lister: Volkmas] Scherzerus, Lipsiensis. E bibliotheca
Marquardii Gudii ad I. A. Fabricium, et, ex huius dono,
ad Theodorum Ianssonium ab Almeloueen transmigrauere;
qui illas suæ, Amstelodami 1709 8vo in lucem prolatæ;
Apicii editioni inseri curauit."

On pp. 131-154 are found the Lectiones Variantes Humelbergianæ, and on pp. 155-156 the Lectiones differentes etc. On pp. 157-228 the Index Vocabulorum ac Rerum notabiliorum etc.; on pp. 229-30 the Notandum adhuc. One blank leaf.

Described by Vicaire, 33, who has only seen the 1791 edition; G.-Drexel, No. 165; Brunet I. 343. Neither Vicaire nor Georg-Drexel have the date and place of publication, which in our copy is hidden on p. 81.

Georg reads Apicii C{oe}lii instead of the above. On the fly leaf the autograph of G. L. Fournier, Bayreuth, 1791.

Bernhold has based his edition upon Lister and on the edition by Blasius Lancilotus, Milan, 1490, (our No. 2, which see.) Aside from the preface in which Bernhold names this and other Apicius editions, unknown to the bibliographers, the editor has not added any of his own observations. Being under the influence of Lister, he joins the English editor in the condemnation of Torinus. His work is valuable because of the above mentioned variants.

NO. 11, A.D. 1791, LÜBECK

[Same as above] The Second Edition. Vicaire, 33. not in G.-Drexel nor Pennell.

NO. 12, A.D. 1800, ANSBACH

APITIUS C{OE}LIUS DE RE CULINARIA. Ed. Bernhold. 8vo. Ansbachii, 1800.

Ex Georg, No. 1076; not in Vicaire nor in Pennell. Though listed by Georg, it is not in the Drexel collection.

NO. 13, A.D. 1852, VENICE

APITIUS CÆLIUS DELLE VIVANDE E CONDIMENTI OVVERO DELL' ARTE DE LA CUCINA. VOLGARIZZAMENTO CON ANNOTATIONI DI G. BASEGGIO.

8vo, pp. 238. With the original Latin text. Venezia, 1852, Antonelli.

Ex Georg-Drexel, No. 1077.

NO. 14, A.D. 1867, HEIDELBERG

APICI CÆLI || DE || RE COQUINARIA LIBRI DECEM. || NOVEM CODICUM OPE ADIUTUS, AUXIT, RESTI || TUIT, EMENDAVIT, ET CORREXIT, VARIARUM || LECTIONUM PARTE POTISSIMA ORNAVIT, STRIC || TIM ET INTERIM EXPLANAVIT || CHR. THEOPHIL. SCHUCH. || HEIDELBERGÆ, 1867.

8vo. pp. 202.

Ex Vicaire, 33; Not in G.-Drexel, not in Pennell.

NO. 15, A.D. 1874

[The same] EDITIO SECUNDA HEIDELBERGÆ, 1874, [Winter].

Although G.-Drexel, No. 1075, reads Apitius C{oe}lius, our copy agrees with the reading of Vicaire, col. 889, appendix. Not in Pennell. Brandt (Untersuchungen [No. 29] p. 6) calls Schuch _Wunderlicher Querkopf_. He is correct. The Schuch editions are eccentric, worthless.

NO. 16, A.D. 1909, LEIPZIG

DAS APICIUS-KOCHBUCH AUS DER ALTRÖMISCHEN KAISERZEIT. Ins Deutsche übersetzt und bearbeitet von Richard Gollmer. Mit Nachbildungen alter Kunstblätter, Kopfleisten und Schlusstücke. Breslau und Leipzig bei Alfred Langewort, 1909. 8vo. pp. 154.

NO. 17, A.D. 1911, LEIPZIG

APICIUS CÆLIUS: ALTRÖMISCHE KOCHKUNST IN ZEHN BÜCHERN. Bearbeitet und ins Deutsche übersetzt von Eduard Danneil, Herzoglich Altenburgischer Hoftraiteur. Leipzig: 1911: Herausgabe und Verlag: Kurt Däweritz, Herzoglich Altenburgischer Hoftraiteur Obermeister der Innung der Köche zu Leipzig und Umgebung. 8vo, pp. XV + 127.

NO. 18, A.D. 1922, LEIPZIG

APICII || LIBRORVM X QVI DICVNTVR || DE RE COQVINARIA ||
QVÆ EXTANT || EDIDERVNT || C. GIARRATANO ET FR. VOLLMER
|| LIPSIÆ IN ÆDIBVS B. G. TEVBNERI MCMXXII.

NO. 19, A.D. 1933, PARIS

LES DIX LIVRES DE CUISINE D'APICIUS traduits du latin pour la Première fois et commentés par Bertrand Guégan. Paris René Bonnel Éditeur rue Blanche, No. 8.

No date (_in fine_ October 16th, 1933). Three blank leaves, false title; on verso, facing the title page (!) "_du mème auteur_"--a full-page advertisement of the author's many-sided publications, past and future. Title page, verso blank. On p. ix _Introduction_, a lengthy discourse on dining in ancient times, including a mention of Apician manuscripts and editions. This commences on p. Li with _Les Manuscrits d'Apicius_. The _Introduction_ finishes on p. Lxxviii. On p. 1 _Les Dix Livres d'Apicius_, on p. 2 a facsimile in black of the _incipit_ of the Vatican manuscript, Apiciana II. On p. 3 commences the translation into French of the Apician text, finishing on p. 308. _Table Analytique_ (index) pp. 309-322. Follow three unnumbered sheets, on the first page of which is the _Justification du tirage_, with the date of printing and the printer's name, Durand of Chartres. The copies printed are numbered from 1 to 679. The copy before us is No. 2; copies 1 to 4 are printed on Montval vellum, 5 to 29 on Dutch Pannekoek vellum, the rest, 30 to 679 on Vidalon vellum paper.

Unfortunately, the present work did not reach us until after ours had gone to press. The text of this edition, the first to appear in the French language, could not be considered in our work, for this reason.

However, a few casual remarks about it may be in order here.

A hasty perusal reveals the disconcerting fact that the editor has been influenced by and has followed the example of Schuch by the adoption of his system of numbering the recipes. We do not approve of his inclusion of the excerpts of Vinidarius in the Apician text.

The observations presented in this edition are rich and varied. The material, comprising the _Introduction_ and also the explanatory notes to the recipes are interesting, copious and well-authenticated. The editor reveals himself to be a better scholar, well-read in the classics, than a practical cook, well-versed in kitchen practice. Frequently, for instance, he confounds _liquamen_ with _garum_, the age-old shortcoming of the Apician scholars.

The advertisement facing the title page of this work is misplaced, disturbing.

Nevertheless, we welcome this French version which merits a thorough study; this we hope to publish at some future date. Any serious and new information on Apicius is welcome and much needed to clear up the mysteries. The advent of a few additional cooks on the scene doesn't matter. Let them give lie to the old proverb that too many cooks spoil the broth. Apicius has been so thoroughly scrambled during the sixteen-hundred years preceding his first printing which started the scholars after him. So far, with the exception of a few minor instances, they have done remarkably well. The complete unscrambling can be done only by many new cooks, willing to devote much pain and unremunerative, careful, patient work in discovering new evidence and adding it to what there is already, to arrive at the truth of the matter.

NO. 20, A.D. 1926-1936, CHICAGO

Apicius, J. D. Vehling, the present edition.

DESCRIPTION OF COMMENTARIES

NO. 21, A.D. 1531, FRANKFORT

DE RE COQUINARIA. VON SPEISEN. Natürlichen und Kreuterwein, aller Verstandt. Vber den Zusatz viler bewerter Künst, insonders fleissig gebessert und corrigirt aus Apitio, Platina, Varrone, Bapt. Fiera cet.'; Francofurti, apud Egenolfum, 1531, 4to.

Ex Bernhold, p. XIV, unknown to the bibliographers. The above is related to the following two works. Apparently, all three have little bearing on Apicius.

NO. 22, A.D. 1534, FRANKFORT

POLYONYMI SYNGRAPHEI SCHOLA APICIANA. Ibid. 1534, 4to.

Ex Bernhold, p. XIV., unknown to the bibliographers. Copy in the Baron Pichon collection, No. 569.

NO. 23, AD. 1535, ANTWERP

SCHOLA || APITIANA, EX OP || TIMIS QVIBVS || DAM
AUTHORIBUS DILIGEN || TER AC NOUITER CONSTRU || CTA,
AUTHORE POLYO || NIMO SYNGRA || PHEO. || A C GESSERE DIA
|| LOGI ALIQUOT D. ERASMI RO || TERODAMI, & ALIA QUÆDAM
|| LECTU IUCUNDISSIMA. || VÆNEUNT ANTUERPIÆ IN ÆDI ||
BUS IOANNIS STEELSIJ. || I. G. 1535. Small 8vo. Title in
beautiful woodcut border. [_in fine_] TYPIS IOAN.
GRAPHEI. M.D.XXXV.

Pagination A-I 4, on verso of I 4, device of Io. Steels, Concordia, with doves on square and astronomical globe. On verso of title, In Scholam Apitianam Præfatio. Sheet A3 Mensam Amititiæ Sacram esse, etc. On sheet A6 The dialogue by Erasmus of Rotterdam between Apitivs and Spvdvs to verso of sheet A8; follows: Conviviarvm qvis nvmervs esse debeat [etc.] ex Aulo Gellio; Præcepta C{oe}narvm by Horace; De Ciborvm Ratione by Michæle Savonarola [Grandfather of the great Girolamo S.]; on sheet C5 De Cibis Secvndæ Mensæ, by Paulus Aegineta; and a number of other quotations from ancient and medieval authors, partly very amusing. The Apician matter seems to be entirely fictitious.

In the collection of the author. Vicaire, 701, who also describes in detail the 1534 edition printed by Egenolph but which is not the same as the above in text.

NO. 24, A.D. 1831, HEIDELBERG

FLORA APICIANA. Dierbach, J. H. Ein Beitrag zur näheren Kenntniss der Nahrungsmittel der alten Römer. Heidelberg, 1831, Groos. 8vo.

NO. 25, A.D. 1868, LONDON

H. C. COOTE: THE CUISINE BOURGEOISE OF ANCIENT ROME. Archæologia, vol. XLI.

Ex Bibliotheca A. Shircliffe.

NO. 26, A.D. 1912, NAPLES

CESARE GIARRATANO: I CODICI DEI LIBRI DE RE COQUINARIA DI CELIO. Naples, 1912, Detken & Rocholl.

NO. 27, AD. 1920

FRIEDRICH VOLLMER: STUDIEN ZU DEM RÖMISCHEN KOCHBUCHE VON APICIUS. Vorgetragen am 7. Februar 1920. Sitzungsberichte der Bayerischen Akademie der Wissenschaften Philosophisch-philologische und historische Klasse Jahrgang, 1920, 6. Abhandlung. München, 1920. Verlag der Bayerischen Akademie der Wissenschaften in Kommission des G. Franzschen Verlags (J. Roth).

NO. 28, A.D. 1921

G. STERNAJOLO: CODICES VRBINATI LATINI.

NO. 29, AD. 1927

UNTERSUCHUNGEN ZUM RÖMISCHEN KOCHBUCHE Versuch einer Lösung der Apicius-Frage von Edward Brandt, Leipzig, Dietrich'sche Verlagsbuchhandlung, 1927. Philologus, Supplementband XIX, Heft III. 164 pp.

Dr. Edward Brandt, the philologist of Munich, is the latest of the Apician commentators. His researches are quite exhaustive. While not conclusive (as some of the problems will perhaps never be solved) he has shed much new light on the vexatious questions of the origin and the authors of our old Roman cookery book.

APICIANÆ FINIS

{Illustration: CANTHARUS, WINE CUP WITH HANDLES

Elaborate decoration of Bacchic motifs: wine leaves and masks of satyrs. Hildesheim Treasure.}

INDEX and VOCABULARY

A

Abalana, Abellana, hazelnut, see Avellana

Abbreviations, explanation of, p. xv

ABDOMEN, sow's udder, belly, fat of lower part of belly, figur.
Gluttony, intemperance

ABROTANUM, --ONUM, --ONUS the herb lad's love; or, according to most
Southernwood. ABROTONUM is also a town in Africa

Absinth. ABSINTHIUM, the herb wormwood. The Romans used A. from
several parts of the world. {Rx} 3, also APSINTHIUM

ABSINTHIATUS, --UM, flavored with wormwood, {Rx} 3

ABSINTHITES, wine tempered or mixed with wormwood; modern absinth
or Vermouth, cf. {Rx} 3

ABSINTHIUM ROMANUM, {Rx} 3

ABUA, a small fish; see APUA, {Rx} 138, 139, 147

ACER, ACEO, ACIDUM, to be or to make sour, tart

ACETABULUM, a "vinegar" cruet: a small measure, equivalent to 15
Attic drachms; see Measures

ACETUM, vinegar
---- MULSUM, mead

ACICULA, ACUS, the needle fish, or horn-back, or horn-beak; a long
fish with a snout sharp like a needle; the gar-fish, or sea-needle

ACIDUM, sour; same as ACER

ACINATICIUS, a costly raisin wine

ACINOSUS, full of kernels or stones

ACINUS, --UM, a grain, or grape raisin berry or kernel

ACIPENSER, a large fish, sturgeon, {Rx} 145; also see STYRIO

ACOR, --UM, sourness, tartness; the herb sweetcane, gardenflag,
galangale

ACRIMONIA, acidity, tartness, sourness; harshness of taste

ACUS, same as ACICULA

Adjustable Table, illustration, p. 138

ADULTERAM, "tempting" dish, {Rx} 192

Adulterations of food in antiquity, pp. 33, 39, seq. 147; {Rx} 6,
7, 9, 15, 17, 18. Also see Cookery, deceptive

Advertising cooked ham, {Rx} 287

Advertising ancient hotels, p. 6

Aegineta, Paulus, writer on medicine and cookery, see Apiciana,
No. 5-6

AENEUM, a "metal" cooking utensil, a CACCABUS, which see; AENEUM VAS,
a mixing bowl; AENEA PATELLA, a pewter, bronze or silver service
platter. Aeno Coctus, braised, sometimes confused with oenococtum,
stewed in wine

AËROPTES, fowl, birds; the correct title of Book VI, see p. 141

Aethiopian Cumin {Rx} 35

"AFFE" (Ger.) Monkey; {Rx} 55; also see Caramel Coloring

AGITARE (OVA), to stir, to beat (eggs)

AGNUS, IN AGNO, lamb; AGNINUS, pertaining to L. {Rx} 291 seq., 355,
364, 495
---- COPADIA AGNINA, {Rx} 355 seq.
---- AGNI COCTURA, {Rx} 358
---- ASSUS, {Rx} 359
---- AGNUM SIMPLICEM, {Rx} 495
---- TARPEIANUS, {Rx} 363

AGONIA, cattle sacrificed at the festivals: only little of the
victims was wasted at religious ceremonies. The priests, after
predicting the future from the intestines, burned them but sold the
carcass to the innkeeper and cooks of the POPINA, hence the name.
These eating places of a low order did a thriving business with
cheaply bought meats which, however, usually were of the best
quality. In Pompeii such steaks were exhibited in windows behind
magnifying glasses to attract the rural customer

Albino, writer, p. 10

ALBUM, ALBUMEN, white; ---- OVORUM, the "whites" of egg; ---- PIPER,
white pepper, etc.

ALEX, (ALEC, HALEC), salt water, pickle, brine, fish brine. Finally,
the fish itself when cured in A. cf. MURIA

Alexandria, the city founded by Alexander the Great, important
Mediterranean harbor. A. was a rival of Rome and Athens in Antiquity,
famous for its luxury

Alexandrine dishes {Rx} 75, 348, seq.

ALICA, spelt. {Rx} 200

ALICATUM, any food treated with ALEX, which see

ALLIATUM, a garlic sauce, consisting of a purée of pounded garlic
whipped up with oil into a paste of a consistency of mayonnaise, a
preparation still popular in the Provence today; finally, anything
flavored with garlic or leeks

ALLIUM, garlic; also leek. Fr. AILLE

Almonds, AMYGDALA, peeling and bleaching of A. {Rx} 57

AMACARUS, sweet-marjoram, feverfew

AMBIGA, a small vessel in the shape of a pyramid

AMBOLATUS, unidentified term; p. 172; {Rx} 57, 59

Amerbach Manuscript, Apiciana XIV

AMMI, (AMMIUM, AMI, AMIUM), cumin

AMURCA (AMUREA), the lees of oil

AMYGDALA (--UM) Almonds, {Rx} 57; OLEUM AMYGDALIUM, almond oil

AMYLARE (AMULARE), to thicken with flour. AMYLATUM (AMULATUM) that
which is thickened with flour. Wheat or rice flour and fats or oil
usually were used for this purpose, corresponding to our present
roux. However, the term was also extended to the use of eggs for
the purpose of thickening fluids, thus becoming equivalent to the
present liaison, used for soups and sauces. Hence AMYLUM and AMULUM,
which is also a sort of frumenty

Anacharsis, the Scythian, writer. He described a banquet at Athens
during the Periclean age. pp. 3, 7

ANAS, a duck or drake; {Rx} 212-17. ANATEM, {Rx} 212; ANATEM EX
RAPIS, {Rx} 214

Anchovy, a small fish; {Rx} 147; cf. APUA. ---- forcemeat, {Rx} 138;
---- sauce and GARUM (which see) {Rx} 37; ---- omelette {Rx} 147

ANET(H)ATUM, flavored with dill; ANET(H)UM, dill, also anise

ANGUILLA, eel, {Rx} 466-7, 484. cf. CONGRIO

ANGULARUS, a "square" dish or pan

ANISUM, anise, pimpinella

ANSER, goose, gander; IN ANSERE, {Rx} 234; ---- JUS CANDIDUM {Rx} 228

ANTIPASTO, "Before the Meal," modern Italian appetizer; the prepared
article usually comes in cans or glasses, consisting of tunny,
artichokes, olives, etc., preserved in oil

APER, see APRUS

APEXABO, a blood sausage; cf. LONGANO

Aphricocks, {Rx} 295

APHROS, {Rx} 295

APHYA, see APUA

Apician Cheesecakes, p. 9
---- cookery, influence, p. 16, 23
---- Archetypus, p. 19
---- manuscripts, p. 19, p. 253, seq.
---- Terminology, p. 22
---- dishes, compared with modern dishes, p. 23
---- sauces, p. 24
---- Style of writing, p. 26
---- research, p. 34 seq.

Apiciana, Diagram of, p. 252

Apicius, pp. 7, 9
---- The man, p. 9
---- Athenaeus on, p. 9
---- and Platina, p. 9
---- Expedition to find crawfish, p. 9
---- ships oysters, p. 10
---- school, p. 10
---- death, pp. 10, 11
---- reflecting Roman conditions, pp. 14, 15
---- authenticity of, pp. 18, 19
---- writer, p. 26, {Rx} 176, 436
---- confirmed by modern science, p. 33
---- editors as cooks, p. 34 seq.

Apion, writer, quoted by Athenaeus, p. 9

APIUM, celery, smallage, parsley. {Rx} 104

APOTHERMA (--UM, APODERMUM) hot porridge, gruel, pudding. {Rx} 57;
cf. TISANA

APPARATUS, preparation; ---- MENSAE, getting dinner ready

Appetizers. {Rx} 174 and others. According to Horace, eggs were the
first dishes served. The "moveable appetizer" of Apicius is very
elaborate, p. 210

Appert, François, {Rx} 24, father of the modern canning methods

Apples, {Rx} 22, 171

APRUS, APRUGNUS, wild boar. {Rx} 329-38. APRINA, PERNA, {Rx} 338,
also APER

APUA (ABUA, APHYA), a small kind of fish, anchovy, sprat, whiting,
white bait, or minnow. {Rx} 138-9, 146, cf. Pliny. Apua is also a
town in Liguria; its inhabitants APUANI

AQUA, water; ---- CALIDA, hot w.; ---- CISTERNINA, well w.; ----
MARINA, sea w.; ---- NITRATA, soda w. for the cooking of vegetables;
---- RECENS; fresh, i.e., not stale w.; ---- PLUVIALE, rain w.

AQUALICUS lower part of belly, paunch, ventricle, stomach, maw

Archetypus Fuldensis, manuscript, see Apiciana Diagram

ARCHIMAGIRUS, principal cook, chef, cf. Cooks' names

ARIDA (--US, --UM) dry; ---- MENTHA, dry mint

ARTEMISIA, the herb mugwort, motherwort, tarragon

ARTOCREAS, meat pie

ARTOPTES, Torinus' title of Book II; better: SARCOPTES, minces,
minced meats

ARTYMA, spice; cf. CONDIMENTUM

Asa foetida, use of ---- {Rx} 15, p. 23

ASARUM, the Herb foalbit, foalfoot, coltsfoot, wild spikenard

ASCALONICA CEPA, "scallion," young onion

Asparagus, ASPARAGUS, p. 188, {Rx} 72, ---- and figpecker, {Rx} 132,
---- custard pie, {Rx} 133

ASSATURA, a roast, also the process of roasting. {Rx} 266-270

ASSUS, roast

ASTACUS, a crab or lobster

Athenaeus, writer, pp. 3, seq.
---- on Apicius, p. 10

Athene, Dish illustration, p. 158

ATRIPLEX, the herb orage, or orach

ATRIUM, living room in a Roman residence, formerly used for kitchen
purposes, hence the name, "black room," because of the smoky walls.
Like all simple things then and now, the Atrium often developed into
a magnificently decorated court, with fountains and marble statues,
and became a sort of parlor to receive the guests of the house

ATTAGENA (ATAGENA), heath cock, a game bird. {Rx} 218, seq.

AURATA, a fish, "golden" dory, red snapper. {Rx} 157, 461, 462

AVELLANA, hazelnut, filbert, Fr. AVELLINE
---- NUX, ---- NUCLEUS, kernel of f. {Rx} 297 and in the list of
the Excerpta

AVENA, a species of bearded grass, haver-grass, oats, wild oats

AVIBUS, IN-- {Rx} 220, 21, 24, 27

AVICULARIUS, bird keeper, poulterer

AVIS, bird, fowl; AVES ESCULENTAE, edible birds. ---- HIRCOSAE,
ill-smelling birds, {Rx} 229-30, ---- NE LIQUESCANT, {Rx} 233

B

BACCA, berry, seed. ---- MYRTHEA, myrtle berry; ---- RUTAE, rue
berry; ---- LAUREA, laurel berry, etc.

Bacon, {Rx} 285-90; see also SALSUM

BAIAE, a town, watering place of the ancients, for which many dishes
are named. {Rx} 205. BAIANUM pertaining to BAIAE; hence EMPHRACTUM
----, FABAE, etc. {Rx} 202, 205, 432; Baian Seafood Stew, {Rx} 431

Bakery in Pompeii, illustration, p. 2

Bantam Chicken, {Rx} 237

Barracuda, a fish, {Rx} 158

Barley Broth, {Rx} 172, 200, 247

BARRICA, {Rx} 173

Barthélemy, J. J., writer, translator of Anacharsis, p. 8

Baseggio, G., editor, Apiciana, No. 13, p. 270

BASILICUM, basil

Bavarian Cabbage, {Rx} 87

Beans, {Rx} 96, 189, 194-8, 247; Green ---- {Rx} 247; ---- sauté,
{Rx} 203; ---- in mustard, {Rx} 204
---- Baian style, {Rx} 202
---- "Egyptian," see COLOCASIUM

Beauvilliers, A., French cook; cf. Styrio

Beef, p. 30; shortage of ---- diet, p. 30
---- "Beef Eaters," p. 30
---- dishes, {Rx} 351, seq.

Beets, {Rx} 70, 97, 98, 183
---- named for Varro, {Rx} 70, 97, 98

Bernardinus, of Venice, printer, p. 258

Bernhold, J. M., editor, Apiciana, Nos. 2-3, 12-14, pp. 258, seq.

BETA, beet, which see BETACEOS VARRONES, {Rx} 70

Bibliographers of Apicius, see Apiciana

Birds, Book VI, {Rx} 210-227; treatment of strong-smelling ---- {Rx}
229, 230

BLITUM, a pot herb, the arrack or orage, also spinach, according to
some interpreters

Boar, wild, {Rx} 329-38, p. 314

Boiled Dinners, {Rx} 125

BOLETAR, a dish for mushrooms, {Rx} 183

BOLETUS, mushroom, {Rx} 309-14

Bordelaise, {Rx} 351

Borrichius, Olaus, p. 268

BOTELLUS, (dim. of BOTULUS) small sausage, {Rx} 60. BOTULUS, a
sausage, meat pudding, black pudding, {Rx} 60, 61, 172

BOUILLABAISSE, a fish stew of Marseilles, {Rx} 431, 481

Bouquet garni, {Rx} 138

BOVES, Beef cattle; cf. BUBULA

Bowls for mixing wine, etc., see Crater
---- for fruit or dessert, illustration, p. 61

Brain Sausage, {Rx} 45
---- Custard, {Rx} 128
---- and bacon, {Rx} 148
---- and chicken with peas, {Rx} 198

Brandt, Edward, Editor, Commentator, {Rx} 29, 170, p. 273

BRASSICA, cabbage, kale; ---- CAMPESTRA, turnip; ---- OLERACEA,
cabbage and kale; ---- MARINA, sea kale (?)

Bread, Alexandrine, {Rx} 126; Picentian ----, {Rx} 125. The methods
of grinding flour and baking is illustrated with our illustrations
of the Casa di Forno of Pompeii and the Slaves grinding flour, which
see, pp. 142, 149. Apicius has no directions for baking, an art that
was as highly developed in his days as was cookery

BREVIS PIMENTORUM, facsimile, p. 234

Brissonius, writer, quoting Lambecius, {Rx} 376

Broiler and Stove, illustration, p. 182

Broth, see LIQUAMEN; Barley ----, {Rx} 172, 200, 201
---- How to redeem a spoiled, {Rx} 9

BUBULA, Beef, flesh of oxen, p. 30, {Rx} 351, 352

BUBULUS CASEUS, cow's cheese

BUCCA, BUCCEA, mouth, cheek; also a bite, a morsel, a mouth-full;
Fr. BOUCHÉE; BUCELLA (dim.) a small bite, a dainty bit, delicate
morsel; hence probably, Ger. "Buss'l" a little kiss and "busseln,"
to spoon, to kiss, in the Southern German dialect

BUCCELLATUM, a biscuit, Zwieback, soldier's bread, hard tack

BULBUS, a bulbous root, a bulb, onion, {Rx} 285, 304-8

BULBI FRICTI, {Rx} 308

BULLIRE, to boil; Fr. BOUILLIR

BUTYRUM, butter. Was little used in ancient households, except for
cosmetics. Cows were expensive, climate and sanitary conditions
interfered with its use in the Southern kitchen. The Latin butyrum
is said to derive from the German Butter

C

CABBAGE, {Rx} 87-92, 103; p. 188
Bavarian, {Rx} 87
Ingenious way of cooking, {Rx} 88
Chartreuse, {Rx} 469

CACABUS, CACCABUS, a cook pot, marmite; see OLLA. Illustrations, pp.
183, 209, 223, 235. Hence: CACCABINA, dish cooked in a caccabus. See
also SALACACCABIA, {Rx} 468. I Exc. 470

CAELIUS, see Coelius

CAEPA, CEPA, onion; ---- ARIDA, fresh onion; ---- ROTUNDA, round
onion; ---- SICCA, dry o.; ---- ASCALONICA, young o. "scallion;"
---- PALLACANA or PALLICANA, a shallot, a special Roman variety

Calamary, cuttlefish, {Rx} 405, p. 343

CALAMENTHUM, cress, watercress

CALLUM, CALLUS (---- PORCINUM) tough skin, bacon skin, cracklings.
{Rx} 9, 251, 255

CAMERINUM, town in Umbria, {Rx} 3, where Vermouth was made

CAMMARUS MARINUS, a kind of crab-fish, {Rx} 43

CANABINUM, CANNABINUM, hemp, hempen

CANCER, crab

Canning, {Rx} 23-24

CANTHARUS, illustrations, p. 231; p. 274

CAPON, {Rx} 166, 249; CAPONUM TESTICULI, {Rx} 166

CAPPAR, caper

CAPPARA, purslane, portulaca

CAPPARUS, CARABUS, {Rx} 397

CAPRA, she-goat, also mountain goat, chamois; Ger. GEMSE; {Rx} 346-8

Caramel coloring, {Rx} 55, 73, 119, 124, 146

CARDAMOMUM, cardamom, aromatic seed