Chapter XX: Book X: The Fisherman 1 (3)

CARDAMUM, nasturtium, cress

Cardoons, {Rx} 112-4

CARDUS, CARDUUS, cardoon, edible thistle, {Rx} 112-3

Carême, Antonin, The most talented French cook of the post-revolution
period; his chartreuses compared, {Rx} 186, p. 35

CARENUM, CAROENUM, wine or must boiled down one third of its volume
to keep it. {Rx} 35

CAREUM, CARUM, Carraway

CARICA (---- FICUS) a dried fig from Caria, a reduction made of the
fig wine was used for coloring sauce, similar to our caramel color,
which see

CARIOTA, CARYOTA, a kind of large date, figdate; also a wine, a date
wine; {Rx} 35

CARO, flesh of animals, {Rx} 10; ---- SALSA, pickled meat

CAROTA, CAROETA, carrot; {Rx} 121-3

Carthusian monks, inventors of the CHARTREUSE, {Rx} 68, see also
Carême

CARTILAGO, gristle, tendon, cartilage

CARYOPHYLLUS, clove

Casa di Forno, Pompeii, "House of the Oven," illustration, p. 2

CASEUS, cheese; {Rx} 125, 303; ---- BUBULUS, cow's cheese; ----
VESTINUS, {Rx} 126

CASTANEA, chestnut, {Rx} 183 seq.

Catesby, writer, {Rx} 322

Catfish, {Rx} 426

CATTABIA, see Salacaccabia

Caul Sausage, Kromeski, {Rx} 45

CAULICULOS, {Rx} 87-92; also Col-- cul-- and coliclus

Cauliflower, {Rx} 87

Caviare, see STYRIO

Celery, {Rx} 104

Celsinus, a Roman, {Rx} 376-7

CENA, COENA, a meal, a repast; CENULA, a light luncheon; ---- RECTA,
a "regular" meal, a formal dinner, usually consisting of GUSTUS,
appetizers and light ENTRÉES, the CENA proper which is the PIÈCE DE
RESISTANCE and the MENSÆ SECUNDAE, or desserts. The main dish was
the CAPUT CENAE; the desserts were also called BELLARIA or MENSAE
POMORUM, because they usually finished with fruit. Hence Horace's
saying "AB OVO USQUE AD MALA" which freely translated and modernized
means, "Everything from soup to nuts."

---- AUGURALIS, ---- PONTIFICALIS, ---- CAPITOLINA, ---- PERSICA,
----SYBARITICA, ---- CAMPANAE, ---- CEREALIS, ---- SALIARIS,
----TRIUMPHALIS, ---- POLINCTURA are all names for state dinners,
official banquets, refined private parties each with its special
significance which is hard to render properly into our language
except by making a long story of it

---- PHILOSOPHICA, ---- PLATONICA, ---- LACONICA, ---- RUSTICA,
----CYNICA are all more or less skimpy affairs, while the ---- ICCI
is that of a downright miser. ---- HECATES is a hectic meal,
----TERRESTRIS a vegetarian dinner, ---- DEUM, a home-cooked meal,
and a ---- SATURNIA is one without imported dishes or delicacies, a
national dinner

---- NOVENDIALIS is the feast given on the ninth day after the
burial of a dead man when his ashes were scattered while yet warm
and fresh. ---- DUBIA, {Rx} 139, is the "doubtful meal" which
causes the conscientious physician Lister so much worry

The CENA, to be sure, was an evening meal, the PRANDIUM, a noon-day
meal, a luncheon, any kind of meal; the JENTACULUM, a breakfast, an
early luncheon; the MERENDA was a snack in the afternoon between the
meals for those who had "earned" a bite

There are further CENAE, such as ---- DAPSILIS, ---- PELLOCIBILIS,
---- UNCTA, ---- EPULARIS, ---- REGALIS, all more or less generous
affairs, and our list of classical and sonorous dinner names is by
no means exhausted herewith. The variety of these names is the best
proof of how seriously a meal was considered by the ancients, how
much thought was devoted to its character and arrangements

CEPA, same as CAEPA, onion

CEPAEA, purslane, sea-purslane, portulaca

CEPUROS, Gr., gardener; title of Book III

CERASUM, cherry, Fr. CERISE; Cerasus is a city of Pontus (Black Sea)
whence Lucullus imported the cherry to Rome

CEREBRUM, CEREBELLUM, brains, {Rx} 46

CEREFOLIUM, CAEREFOLIUM, chervil, Ger. KERBEL, Fr. CERFEUILLE

Cereto de Tridino, printer, see Tacuinus

CERVUS, stag, venison, {Rx} 339-45

Cesena, a town in Italy where there is an Apicius Ms.; Apiciana XII

CHAMAE, cockles

Chamois, {Rx} 346 seq.

Charcoal used for filtering, {Rx} 1

CHARTREUSE, {Rx} 68, 131, 145a, 186, 469-70; also see Carthusian
monks and Carême

"Chasseur," {Rx} 263

Cheese, cottage, {Rx} 303; also see CASEUS

Cheltenham codex, Apiciana I

Cherries, {Rx} 22, see CERASUS

Chestnuts, {Rx} 183-84a

Chicken, PULLUS
---- forcemeat, {Rx} 50; ---- broth, 51; ---- fricassé, 56; ----
boiled, 235, 236, 242; ---- and dasheens, 244; ---- creamed, with
paste, 247; ---- stuffed, 248, 199, 213-17, 235; ---- in cream,
250; ---- disjointed, 139, note 1; ---- Bantam, 237; ---- cold, in
its own gravy, 237; ---- fried or sauté, 236; ---- Guinea hen,
239; ---- Fricassé Varius, 245; ---- à la Fronto, 246; ----
Parthian style, 237; ---- and leeks, 238; ---- with laser, 240;
---- roast, 241; ---- and pumpkin, 243; ---- galantine, 249; ----
fried with cream sauce, 250; ---- Maryland, Wiener Backhähndl, 250

Chick-peas, {Rx} 207-9; p. 247

Chimneys on pies, {Rx} 141

Chipolata garniture, {Rx} 378

CHOENIX, a measure,--2 SEXTARII, {Rx} 52

Chops, {Rx} 261

CHOUX DE BRUXELLES AUX MARRONS, {Rx} 92

Christina, Queen of Sweden, eating Apician dishes, pp. 37, 38

CHRYSOMELUM, CHRYSOMALUM, a sort of quince

CIBARIA, victuals, provisions, food; same as CIBUS. Hence CIBARIAE
LEGES, sumptuary laws; CIBARIUM VAS, a vessel or container for food;
CIBARIUS, relating to food; also CIBATIO, victualling, feeding,
meal, repast

CIBARIUM ALBUM, white repast, white dish, blancmange. Fr. BLANC
MANGER, "white eating." A very old dish. Platina gives a fine recipe
for it; in Apicius it is not yet developed. The body of this dish is
ground almonds and milk, thickened with meat jelly. Modern
cornstarch puddings have no longer a resemblance to it; to speak of
"chocolate" blancmange as we do, is a barbarism. Platina is proud of
his C.A. He prefers it to any Apician dessert. We agree with him;
the incomplete Apicius in Platina's and in our days has no desserts
worth mentioning. A German recipe of the 13th century (in "Ein Buch
von guter Spise") calls C.A. "Blamansier," plainly a corruption of
the French. By the translation of C.A. into the French, the origin
of the dish was obliterated, a quite frequent occurrence in French
kitchen terminology

CIBORIUM, a drinking vessel

CIBUS, food, victuals, provender

CICER, chick-pea, small pulse, {Rx} 207-209

Cicero, famous Roman, {Rx} 409

CICONIA, stork. Although there is no direct mention of the C. as an
article of diet it has undoubtedly been eaten same as crane, egrets,
flamingo and similar birds

CINARA, CYNARA, artichoke

CINNAMONUM, cinnamon

CIRCELLOS ISICATOS, a sausage, {Rx} 65

CITREA MALA, citron; see CITRUM

CITREUS, citron tree

CITRUM, CITRIUM, the fruit of the CITREUS, citron, citrus, {Rx} 23,
81, 168. The citron tree is also MALUS MEDICA. "MALUS QUAE CITRIA
VOCANTUR"; CONDITURA MALORUM MEDICORUM, Ap. Book I.; Lister thinks
this is a cucumber

CITRUS, orange or lemon tree and their fruits. It is remarkable that
Apicius does not speak of lemons, one of the most indispensable
fruits in modern cookery which grow so profusely in Italy today.
These were imported into Italy probably later. The ancients called a
number of other trees CITRUS also, including the cedar, the very
name of which is a corruption of CITRUS

Classic Cookery, pp. 16-17

CLIBANUS, portable oven; also a broad vessel for bread-making, a
dough trough

CNECON, {Rx} 16

CNICOS, CNICUS, CNECUS, bastard saffron; also the blessed thistle

CNISSA, smoke or steam arising from fat or meat while roasting

COCHLEAE, snails, also sea-snails, "cockles," periwinkles, {Rx}
323-25. ---- LACTE PASTAE, milk-fed snails. COCHLEARIUM, a snail
"farm," place where snails were raised and fattened for the table.
Also a "spoonful," a measure of the capacity of a small shell, more
properly, however, COCHLEAR, a spoon, a spoon-full, 1/4 cyathus, the
capacity of a small shell, also, properly, a spoon for drawing
snails out of the shells. COCHLEOLA, a small snail

COCOLOBIS, basil, basilica

COCTANA, COTANA, COTTANA, COTONA, a small dried fig from Syria

COCTIO, the act of cooking or boiling

COCTIVA CONDIMENTA, easy of digestion, not edible without cooking.
COCTIVUS, soon boiled or roasted

COCTOR, cook, which see; same as COQUUS

COCULA, same as COQUA, a female cook

COCULUM, a cooking vessel

COCUS, COQUUS, cook, which see

Coelius, name of a person, erroneously attached to that of Apicius;
also Caelius, p. 13

COLADIUM, --EDIUM, --ESIUM, --OESIUM, variations of COLOCASIUM,
which see

Colander, illustration of a, p. 58

COLICULUS, CAULICULUS, a tender shoot, a small stalk or stem,
{Rx} 87-92

COLO, to strain, to filter, cf. {Rx} 73

COLOCASIA, COLOCASIUM, the dasheen, or taro, or tanyah tuber, of
which there are many varieties; the root of a plant known to the
ancients as Egyptian Bean. Descriptions in the notes to the {Rx} 74,
154, 172, 200, 244 and 322

COLUM NIVARIUM, a strainer or colander for wine and other liquids.
See illustration, p. 58

COLUMBA, female pigeon; COLUMBUS, the male; COLUMBULUS, --A, squab,
{Rx} 220. Also used as an endearing term

Columella, writer on agriculture; ---- on bulbs, {Rx} 307; ----
mentioning Matius, {Rx} 167

COLYMBADES (OLIVAE), olives "swimming" in the brine; from COLYMBUS,
swimming pool

Combination of dishes, {Rx} 46

Commentaries on Apicius, p. 272

Commodus, a Roman, {Rx} 197

Compôte of early fruit, {Rx} 177

CONCHA, shellfish muscle, cockle scallop, pearl oyster; also the
pearl itself, or mother-of-pearl; also any hollow vessel resembling
a mussel shell (cf. illustration, p. 125) hence CONCHA SALIS PURI, a
salt cellar. Hence also CONCHIS, beans or peas cooked "in the shell"
or in the pod; and diminutives and variations: CONCHICLA FABA, (bean
in the pod) for CONCHICULA, which is the same as CONCHIS and
CONCICLA; {Rx} 194-98, 411. ---- APICIANA, {Rx} 195; ---- DE PISA,
{Rx} 196; ---- COMMODIANA, {Rx} 197; ---- FARSILIS, {Rx} 199

CONCHICLATUS, {Rx} 199

CONCRESCO, grow together, run together, thicken, congeal, also
curdle, etc., same as CONCRETIO, CONCRETUM

CONDIO, to salt, to season, to flavor; to give relish or zest, to
spice, to prepare with honey or pepper, and also (since spicing does
this very thing) to preserve

CONDITIO, laying up, preserving. CONDITIVUS, that which is laid up or
preserved, same as CONDITUM

CONDITOR, one who spices. Ger. Konditor, a pastry maker

CONDIMENTARIUS, spice merchant, grocer

CONDIMENTUM, condiment, sauce, dressing, seasoning, pickle, anything
used for flavoring, seasoning, pickling ---- VIRIDE green herbs, pot
herbs; cf. CONDITURA. ---- PRO PELAMIDE, {Rx} 445; ---- PRO THYNNO,
{Rx} 446; ---- IN PERCAM, {Rx} 447; ---- IN RUBELLIONEM, {Rx} 448;
---- RATIO CONDIENDI MURENAS, {Rx} 449; ---- LACERTOS, {Rx} 456;
---- PRO LACERTO ASSO, {Rx} 457; ---- THYNNUM ET DENTICEM, {Rx} 458;
---- DENTICIS, {Rx} 460; ---- IN DENTICE ELIXO, {Rx} 461; ----
AURATA, {Rx} 462; ---- IN AURATAM ASSAM, {Rx} 463; ---- SCORPIONES,
{Rx} 464; ---- ANGUILLAM, {Rx} 466; ---- ALIUD ---- ANGUILLAE, {Rx}
467

CONDITUM, preserved, a preserve; cf. CONDIO; ---- MELIRHOMUM, {Rx} 2
---- ABSINTHIUM ROMANUM, {Rx} 3 ---- PARADOXUM, {Rx} 1 ----
VIOLARUM, {Rx} 5
---- Paradoxum, facsimile of Vat. Ms., p. 253

CONDITURA, a pickle, a preserve, sauce, seasoning, marinade; the
three terms, C., CONDITUM and CONDIMENTUM are much the same in
meaning, and are used indiscriminately. They also designate sweet
dishes and desserts of different kinds, including many articles
known to us as confections. Hence the German, KONDITOR, for
confectioner, pastry cook. Nevertheless, a general outline of the
specific meanings of these terms may be gathered from observing the
nature of the several preparations listed under these headings,
particularly as follows: ---- ROSATUM, {Rx} 4; (cf. No. 5) ----
MELLIS, {Rx} 17; ---- UVARUM, {Rx} 20; ---- MALORUM PUNICORUM, {Rx}
21; ---- COTONIORUM, {Rx} 19; ---- FICUUM, PRUNORUM, PIRORUM, {Rx}
20; ---- MALORUM MEDICORUM, {Rx} 21; ---- MORORUM, {Rx} 25; ----
OLERUM, {Rx} 26; ---- RUMICIS, {Rx} 27; ---- LAPAE, {Rx} 27; ----
DURACINORUM, {Rx} 29; ---- PRUNORUM, etc., {Rx} 30
--in most of these instances corresponds to our modern
"preserving"

CONGER, CONGRIO, CONGRUS, sea-eel, conger. CONGRUM QUEM ANTIATES
BRUNCHUM APPELLANT,--Platina, cf. ANGUILLA. Plautus uses this fish
name to characterize a very cunning person, a "slippery" fellow. A
cook is thus called CONGRIO in one of his plays

CONILA, CUNILA, a species of the plant ORIGANUM, origany, wild
marjoram. See SATUREIA

CONYZA, the viscous elecampane

Cook, COCUS, COQUUS is the most frequent form used, COCTOR,
infrequent. COQUA, COCULA, female cook; though female cooks were
few. The word is derived from COQUERE, to cook, which seems to be an
imitation of the sound, produced by a bubbling mess

The cook's work place (formerly ATRIUM, the "black" smoky room) was
the CULINA, the kitchen, hence in the modern Romance tongues
CUISINE, CUCINA, COCINA. Those who work there are CUISINIERS,
COCINEROS, the female a CUISINIÈRE, and so forth

The German and Swedish for "kitchen" are KÜCHE and KÖKET, but the
words "cook" and "KOCH" are directly related to COQUUS

A self-respecting Roman cook, especially a master of the art,
having charge of a crew, would assume the title of MAGIRUS, or
ARCHIMAGIRUS, chief cook. This Greek--"MAGEIROS"--plainly shows the
high regard in which Greek cookery stood in Rome. No American CHEF
would think of calling himself "chief cook," although CHEF means
just that. The foreign word sounds ever so much better both in old
Rome and in new New York. MAGEIROS is derived from the Greek
equivalent of the verb "to knead," which leads us to the art of
baking. Titles and distinctions were plentiful in the ancient
bakeshops, which plainly indicates departmentisation and division of
labor

The PISTOR was the baker of loaves, the DULCIARIUS the cake baker,
using honey for sweetening. Martial says of the PISTOR DULCIARIUS,
"that hand will construct for you a thousand sweet figures of art;
for it the frugal bee principally labors." The PANCHESTRARIUS,
mentioned in Arnobius, is another confectioner. The LIBARIUS still
another of the sweet craft. The CRUSTULARIUS and BOTULARIUS were a
cookie baker and a sausage maker respectively

The LACTARIUS is the milkman; the PLACENTARIUS he who makes the
PLACENTA, a certain pancake, also a kind of cheese cake, often
presented during the Saturnalia. The SCRIBLITARIUS belongs here,
too: in our modern parlance we would perhaps call these two
"ENTREMETIERS." The SCRIBLITA must have been a sort of hot cake,
perhaps an omelet, a pancake, a dessert of some kind, served hot;
maybe just a griddle cake, baked on a hot stone, a TORTILLA--what's
the use of guessing! but SCRIBLITAE were good, for Plautus, in one
of his plays, Poenulus, shouts, "Now, then, the SCRIBLITAE are
piping hot! Come hither, fellows!" Not all of them did eat, however,
all the time, for Posidippus derides a cook, saying, CUM SIS COQUUS,
PROFECTUS EXTRA LIMEN ES, CUM NON PRIUS COENAVERIS, "What? Thou art
a cook, and hast gone, without dinner, over the threshold?"

From the FOCARIUS, the scullion, the FORNACARIUS, the fireman, or
furnace tender, and the CULINARIUS, the general kitchen helper to
the OBSONATOR, the steward, the FARTOR to the PRINCEPS COQUORUM, the
"maître d'hôtel" of the establishment we see an organization very
much similar to our own in any well-conducted kitchen

The Roman cooks, formerly slaves in the frugal days of the nation,
rose to great heights of civic importance with the spread of
civilization and the advance of luxury in the empire. Cf. "The Rôle
of the Mageiroi in the Life of the Ancient Greeks" by E. M. Rankin,
Chic., 1907, and "Roman Cooks" by C. G. Harcum, Baltimore, 1914, two
monographs on this subject

Cookery, Apician, as well as modern c., discussed in the critical
review of the Apicius book
---- examples of deceptive c. in Apicius, {Rx} 6, 7, 9, 17, 229,
230, 384, 429
---- of flavoring and spicing, {Rx} 15, 277, 281, 369
---- deserving special mention for ingenuity and excellence, {Rx}
15, 21, 22, 72, 88, 177, 186, 212, 213, 214, 250, 287, 315, 428
---- modern Jewish, resembling Apicius, {Rx} 204 seq.
---- examples of attempts to remove disagreeable odors, {Rx} 212-14,
229, 230, 292
---- removing sinews from fowl, {Rx} 213
---- utensils, p. 15

Coote, C. T., commentator, pp. 19, 273

COPA, a woman employed in eating places and taverns, a bar maid, a
waitress, an entertainer, may be all that in one person. One of the
caricatures drawn on a tavern wall in Pompeii depicts a COPA
energetically demanding payment for a drink from a reluctant
customer, p. 7

COPADIA, dainties, delicate bits, {Rx} 125, 179, 180, 271, 276,
seq., 355

Copper in Vegetable Cookery, {Rx} 66

Copyists and their work, p. 14

COQUINA, cooking, kitchen. COQUINARIS, --IUS, relating to the kitchen.
COQUO, --IS, COXI, COCTUM, COQUERE, to cook, to dress food, to function
in the kitchen, to prepare food for the table. See cook

COR, heart

CORDYLA, CORDILLA, {Rx} 419, 423

CORIANDRUM, the herb coriander; CORIANDRATUM, flavored with c.;
LIQUAMEN EX CORIANDRO, coriander essence or extract

Corn, green, {Rx} 99

CORNUM, cornel berry; "CORNA QUAE VERGILIUS LAPIDOSA VOCAT"--Platina

CORNUTUS, horn-fish, {Rx} 442

CORRUDA, the herb wild sparrage, or wild asparagus

CORVUS, a kind of sea-fish, according to some the sea-swallow.
Platina describes it as a black fish of the color of the raven
(hence the name), and ranks it among the best of fish, cf. STURNUS

COTANA, see COCTANA

COTICULA (CAUDA?), minor cuts of pork, either spareribs, pork chops,
or pig's tails

COTONEA, a herb of the CUNILA family, wallwort, comfrey or black
bryony

COTONEUM, COTONEUS, COTONIUS, CYDONIUS, quince-apple, {Rx} 163

COTULA, COTYLA, a small measure, 1/2 sextarius

COTURNIX, quail

COSTUM, COSTUS, costmary; fragrant Indian shrub, the root of burning
taste but excellent flavor

Court-bouillon, {Rx} 37, 138

Cow-parsnips, p. 188, {Rx} 115-122, 183

COXA, {Rx} 288

Crabs, {Rx} 485; crabmeat croquettes, {Rx} 44

Cracklings, p. 285, {Rx} 255

Crane, {Rx} 212, 213, p. 265. Crane with turnips, {Rx} 214-17

CRATER, CRATERA, a bowl or vessel to mix wine and water; also a
mixing bowl and oil container--see illustrations, p. 140

CRATICULA, grill, gridiron; illustration, p. 182

Crême renversée, {Rx} 129, 143

CREMORE, DE--, {Rx} 172

CRETICUM HYSOPUM, {Rx} 29, Cretan hyssop

CROCUS, --OS, --ON, --UM, saffron; hence CROCEUS, saffron-flavored,
saffron sauce or saffron essence. CROCIS, a certain herb or flavor,
perhaps saffron

Croquettes, {Rx} 42, seq.

Cucumber, CUCUMIS, {Rx} 82-84

CUCURBITA, pumpkin, gourd, {Rx} 73-80, 136

CULINA, kitchen; CULINARIUS, man employed in the kitchen; pertaining
to the kitchen

CULTER, a knife for carving or killing; the blade from 9 to 13
inches long

CUMANA, earthen pot or dish; casserole, {Rx} 237

Cumberland sauce, {Rx} 345

CUMINUM, CYMINUM, cumin; CUMINATUM, --US, sauce or dish seasoned
with cumin, {Rx} 39, 40. Aethiopian, Libyan, and Syriac cumin are
named, {Rx} 178

CUNICULUS, rabbit, cony

CUNILAGO, a species of origany, flea-bane, wild marjoram, basilica

CUPELLUM, CUPELLA, dim., of CUPA, a small cask or tun. Ger. KUFE; a
"cooper" is a man who makes them

CURCUMA ZEODARIA, turmeric

Custard, brain, {Rx} 27; ---- nut, {Rx} 128, 142; ---- of vegetables
and brain, {Rx} 130; ---- of elderberries, {Rx} 134; ---- rose, {Rx}
135; see also {Rx} 301

Cutlets, {Rx} 261, 471-3

Cuttle-fish, {Rx} 42, 406-8

CYAMUS, Egyptian bean

CYATHUS, a measure, for both things liquid and things dry, which
according to Pliny 21.109, amounted to 10 drachms, and, according to
Rhem. Fann. 80., was the 12th part of a SEXTARIUS, roughly one
twelfth pint. Also a goblet, and a vessel for mixing wine, {Rx} 131

CYDONIIS, PATINA DE, {Rx} 163, see also Malus

CYMA, young sprout, of colewort or any other herb; also cauliflower,
{Rx} 87-9-92

CYPERUS, CYPIRUS, a sort of rush with roots like ginger, see MEDIUM

CYRENE, a city of Africa, famous for its Laser Cyrenaicum, the best
kind of laser, which see. Also Kyrene

D

DACTYLIS, long, "finger-like" grape or raisin; --US, long date, fruit
of a date tree, {Rx} 30

DAMA, a doe, deer, also a gazelle, antilope (DORCAS). In some places
the chamois of the Alps is called DAMA

DAMASCENA [PRUNA], plum or prune from Damascus, {Rx} 30. Either fresh
or dried

Danneil, E., editor, pp. 33-34, 35, 271

Dasheen, {Rx} 74, 152, 172, 216, 244, 322

Dates, stuffed, {Rx} 294

DAUCUM, --US, --ON, a carrot

DE CHINE, see Dasheen

"Decline of the West," p. 17

DECOQUO, to boil down

DEFRUTARIUS, one who boils wine; CELLA DEFRUTARIA, a cellar where
this is done, or where such wine is kept

DEFRUTUM, DEFRICTUM, DEFRITUM, new wine boiled down to one half of
its volume with sweet herbs and spices to make it keep. Used to
flavor sauces, etc., see also Caramel color

DENTEX, a sparoid marine fish, "Tooth-Fish," {Rx} 157, 459-60

Dessert Dishes, illustrations, pp. 61, 125

Desserts, absent, p. 43

Desserts, Apician, {Rx} 143, 294, seq.

DIABOTANON PRO PISCE FRIXO, {Rx} 432

Diagram of Apician editions, p. 252

Didius Julianus, {Rx} 178

Dierbach, H. J., commentator, p. 273

Dining in Apician style, modern, p. 37
---- in Rome, compared with today, pp. 17, 18

Diocles, writer, {Rx} 409

Dionysos Cup, illustration, p. 141

Dipper, illustrated, p. 3

DISCUS, round dish, plate or platter

Disguising foods, {Rx} 133, pp. 33-4

Distillation, see Vinum

Dormouse, {Rx} 396

Dory, {Rx} 157, 462-5

Doves, p. 265

Drexel, Theodor, collector, pp. 257-8

Dubois, Urbain, chef, p. 16

Duck, p. 265, {Rx} 212-3; ---- with turnips, {Rx} 214-7

DULCIA, sweets, cookies, confections, {Rx} 16, 216, 294-6
--RIUS, pastry cook, {Rx} 294

Dumas, Alexandre, cooking, p. 24

Dumpling of pheasant, {Rx} 48; ---- and HYDROGARUM, {Rx} 49; ----
with broth, plain, {Rx} 52, 181

DURACINUS, hard-skinned, rough-skinned fruit; ---- PERSICA, the best
sort of peach, according to some, nectarines, {Rx} 28

E

Early fruit, stewed, {Rx} 177

ECHINUS, sea-urchin, {Rx} 412-17

Economical methods: flavoring, {Rx} 15

EDO, to eat; great eater, gormandizer, glutton

EDULA, chitterlings

Eel, {Rx} 466-7

Egg Dish, illustration, p. 93

Eggs, {Rx} 326-28; ---- fried, {Rx} 336; ---- boiled, {Rx} 327; ----
poached, {Rx} 328; ---- scrambled with fish and oysters, {Rx} 159

Eglantine, {Rx} 171

Egyptian Bean, {Rx} 322; also see CYAMUS

EIERKÄSE, {Rx} 125, 301

ELAEOGARUM, {Rx} 33

Elderberry custard, {Rx} 135

ELIXO, to boil, boil down, reduce. --US, --UM, boiled down, sodden,
reduced. According to Platina an ELIXUM simply is a meat bouillon as
it is made today. ELIXATIO, a court-bouillon, liquid boiled down;
ELIXATURA, a reduction

EMBAMMA, a marinade, a pickle or sauce to preserve food, to give it
additional flavor; same as INTINCTUS, {Rx} 344

EMBRACTUM, EMPHRACTUM, a dish "covered over"; a casserole of some
kind. E. BAIANUM, {Rx} 431

Endives, {Rx} 109

Enoche of Ascoli, medieval scholar, cf. Apiciana

Entrées, potted, {Rx} 54, 55; ---- sauces, {Rx} 56; ---- of fish,
poultry and sausage, {Rx} 139; ---- of fowl and livers, {Rx} 175

EPIMELES, careful, accurate; choice things. Title of Book I

Erasmus of Rotterdam, Dialogue, p. 273

ERUCA, the herb rocket, a colewort, a salad plant, a mustard plant

ERVUM, a kind of pulse like vetches or tares

ESCA, meat, food, victuals; ESCO, to eat

Escoffier, A. modern chef, writer, {Rx} 338

ESCULENTES, things good to eat

ESTRIX, she-glutton

ESUS, eating

Every Day Dishes, {Rx} 128, 142

EXCERPTA A VINIDARIO, p. 235

Excerpts from Apicius by Vinidarius, pp. 21, 234

EXCOQUO, to boil out, to melt, to render (fats)

F

FABA, bean, pulse. ---- AEGYPTIACA, {Rx} 322; ---- IN FRIXORIO,
string beans in the frying pan, Fr.: HARICOTS VERTS SAUTÉS; ----
VITELLIANA, {Rx} 189, 193

FABACIAE VIRIDES, green bean, {Rx} 202; ---- FRICTAE, {Rx} 203; ----
EX SINAPI, {Rx} 204

Fabricius, Albertus, bibliographer, pp. 258, seq., 268

"Fakers" of manuscripts, p. 13

FALSCHER HASE, {Rx} 384

FAR, corn or grain of any kind, also spelt; also a sort of coarse meal

Farce, forcemeat, {Rx} 131

FARCIMEN, sausage, {Rx} 62-64

FARCIO, to fill, to stuff; also to feed by force, cram, fatten

FARINA, meal, flour, {Rx} 173; --OSUS, mealy

FARNEI FUNGI, {Rx} 309

FARRICA, {Rx} 173

FASEOLUS, PHASEOLUS, a bean; Ger.: Fisole, {Rx} 207

FARSILIS, FARTILIS, a rich dish, something crammed or fattened,
{Rx} 131

FARTOR, sausage maker; keeper of animals to be fattened, {Rx} 166,
366

FARTURA, the fattening of animals; also the dressing used to stuff
the bodies in roasting, forcemeat, {Rx} 166, 366

FATTENING FOWL, {Rx} 166, 366

FENICOPTERO, IN, {Rx} 220, 231

FENICULUM, FOENI--, fennel

FENUM GRAECUM, FOEN--; the herb fenugreek, also SILICIA, {Rx} 206

FERCULUM, a frame or tray on which several dishes were brought in at
once, hence a course of dishes

FERULA, a rod or branch, fennel-giant; ---- ASA FOETIDA, same as
LASERPITIUM

FICATUM, fed or stuffed with figs, {Rx} 259-60

FICEDULA, small bird, figpecker, {Rx} 132

FICUS, fig, fig tree, FICULA, small fig

Field herbs, {Rx} 107; Field salad, {Rx} 110; a dish of field
vegetables, {Rx} 134

Fieldfare, a bird, {Rx} 497

Fig-fed pork, p. 285, {Rx} 259

Figpecker, a bird, {Rx} 132

Figs, to preserve, {Rx} 22

Filets Mignons, {Rx} 262

Filtering liquors, {Rx} 1

Financière garniture, {Rx} 166, 378

Fine ragout of brains and bacon, {Rx} 147

Fine spiced wine, {Rx} 1

Fish cookery, "The Fisherman," title of Book X; ---- boiled, {Rx}
432, 4, 5, 6, 455; ---- fried, herb sauce, {Rx} 433; ---- to
preserve fried fish, {Rx} 13; ---- with cold dressing, {Rx} 486;
---- baked, {Rx} 476-7; ---- balls in wine sauce, {Rx} 145, 164;
---- fond, {Rx} 155; a dish of any kind of ----, {Rx} 149, 150, 156;
---- au gratin, {Rx} 143; ---- loaf, {Rx} 429; ---- liver pudding,
{Rx} 429; ---- pickled, spiced, marinated, {Rx} 480; ---- oysters
and eggs, {Rx} 157; ---- salt, any style, {Rx} 430, 431; ----
stew, {Rx} 153, 432; ---- sauce, acid, {Rx} 38-9

FISKE BOLLER, {Rx} 145, 41, seq.

Flaccus, a Roman, {Rx} 372

Flamingo, {Rx} 220, 231-2

Flavors and spices, often referred to, especially in text; instances
of careful flavoring, {Rx} 15, 276-77. Flavoring with faggots, {Rx}
385, seq.

Florence Mss. Apiciana VI, VII, VIII, IX

FLORES SAMBUCI, elder blossoms

Fluvius Hirpinus, Roman, {Rx} 323, 396; a man interested in raising
snails, dormice, etc., for the table

FOCUS, hearth, range; unusually built of brick, on which the CRATICULA
stood. Cf. illustrations, p. 182

FOLIUM, leaf, aromatic leaves such as laurel, etc. ---- NARDI,
several kinds, nard leaf. The Indian nard furnishes nard oil, the
Italian lavender

FONDULI, see SPHONDULI, {Rx} 114, 121

Food adulterations, pp. 33, 34

Food disguising and adulteration, p. 33, {Rx} 6, 7, 134, 147;
---- displayed in Pompeii, p. 7

Forcemeats, {Rx} 42, 172

Fowl, p. 265; a dish of, {Rx} 470; ---- and livers, {Rx} 174;
various dishes and sauce, {Rx} 218, seq. Picking ----, {Rx} 233;
Removing disagreeable odors from ----, {Rx} 229-30

French Dressing, {Rx} 112

French Toast, {Rx} 296

FRETALE, FRIXORIUM, FRICTORIUM, frying pan, illustrations, pp. 355,
366; cf. SARTAGO

FRICTELLA, fritter; "A FRICTO DICI NULLA RATIO OBSTAT"--Platina.
Ger. "Frikadellen" for meat balls fried in the pan. "De OFFELLIS,
QUAS VEL FRICTELLAS LICET APPELLARE"--Platina

FRICTORIUM, FRIXORIUM, same as FRETALE, frying pan

FRISILIS, FRICTILIS, FUSILIS, {Rx} 131

FRITTO MISTO (It.), {Rx} 46

Friture, (Fr.) frying fat, {Rx} 42, seq.

FRIXUS, roast, fried, also dried or parched, term which causes some
confusion in the several editions

Frontispice, 2nd Lister Edition, illustration, p. 156

Fronto, a Roman, {Rx} 246, 374

FRUGES, farinaceous dishes

Fruit dishes, {Rx} 64, 72; Fruits, p. 210; ---- dried, Summary, p. 370
---- Bowl illustration, pp. 61, 125

FRUMENTUM, grain, wheat or barley

Frying, {Rx} 42, seq.

Frying pans, illustrated, cf. FRETALE and SARTAGO

Fulda Ms., cf. Apiciana

FUNGUS, mushroom; --ULUS, small m.; see BOLETUS ---- FARNEI, {Rx}
309, seq.

FURCA, a two-pronged fork; --ULA, --ILLA (dim.) a small fork.
FUSCINA, --ULA, a three-pronged fork. Cf. "Forks and Fingerbowls
as Milestones in Human Progress," by the author, Hotel Bulletin and
The Nation's Chefs, Chicago, Aug., 1933, pp. 84-87

FURNUS, oven, bake oven. See illustration, p. 2

G

Galen, writer, {Rx} 396, 410

GALLINA, hen; --ULA, little hen; --ARIUS, poulterer

GALLUS, cock

Game of all kinds, sauce for, {Rx} 349
---- birds, {Rx} 218, seq.

GANONAS CRUDAS, fish, {Rx} 153

GARATUM, prepared with GARUM, which see

Gardener, The--Title of Book III, {Rx} 377

GARUM (Gr.: GARON) a popular fish sauce made chiefly of the scomber
or mackerel, but formerly from the GARUS, hence the name, cf. p. 22,
{Rx} 10, 33, 471

Mackerel is the oiliest fish, and plentiful, very well suited for
the making of G.

G. was also a pickle made of the blood and the gills of the tunny
and of the intestines of mackerel and other fish. The intestines
were exposed to the sun and fermented. This has stirred up
controversies; the ancients have been denounced for the "vile
concoctions," but garum has been vindicated by modern science as to
its rational preparation and nutritive qualities. Codfish oil, for
instance, has long been known for its medicinal properties,
principally Vitamin D; this is being increased today by exposure to
ultraviolet rays (just what the ancients did). The intestines are
the most nutritious portions of fish

G. still remains a sort of mystery. Its exact mode of preparation is
not known. It was very popular and expensive, therefore was subject
to a great number of variations in quality and in price, and to
adulteration. For all these reasons GARUM has been the subject of
much speculation. It appears that the original meaning of G. became
entirely lost in the subsequent variations

In 1933 Dr. Margaret B. Wilson sent the author a bottle of GARUM
ROMANUM which she had compounded according to the formulae at her
disposal. This was a syrupy brown liquid, smelled like glue and had
to be dissolved in water or wine, a few drops of the G. to a glass
of liquid, of which, in turn, only a few drops were used to flavor a
fish sauce, etc.

---- SOCIORUM, the best kind of G.; ALEXGARI VITIUM, the cheap kind
of G., cf. ALEX, HALEC. OENOGARUM, G. mixed with wine; HYDROGARUM G.
mixed with water; OLEOGARUM, G. mixed with oil; OXYGARUM, G. mixed
with vinegar

GARUS, small fish from which the real GARUM was made

GELO, cause to freeze, to congeal; GELU, jelly
GELU IN PATINA, gelatine: "QUOD VULGO GELATINAM VOCAMUS"--Platina

Georg, Carl, Bibliographer, p. 257

Gesamt-Katalog, bibliography, p. 261

Gesner, Conrad, Swiss scientist, bibliographer, polyhistor, see
Schola Apitiana, p. 206

GETHYUM, --ON, same as PALLACANA, an onion

Giarratano, C., editor, Apiciana, pp. 18, 19, 26, 271, 273

GINGIBER, ginger; also ZINGIBER, faulty reading of the "G" by
medieval scribes

GINGIDON, --IUM, a plant of Syria; according to Spengel the French
carrot. Paulus Aegineta says: "BISACUTUM (SIC ENIM ROMANI GINGIDION
APPELLANT) OLUS EST SCANDICI NON ABSIMILE," hence a chervil root, or
parsnip, or oysterplant

GLANDES, any kernel fruit, a date, a nut, etc.

Glasse, Mrs. Hannah, writer, {Rx} 127

GLIS, pl. GLIRES, dormouse, a small rodent, very much esteemed as
food. GLIRARIUM, cage or place where they were kept or raised, {Rx}
396

Gluttons, p. 11

Goat, wild, {Rx} 346, seq. ---- liver, {Rx} 291-3

Gollmer, R., editor, Apiciana, pp. 18, 35, 270

GONG for slaves, illustration, p. 151

Goose, p. 265; white sauce for, {Rx} 228

Grapes, to keep, {Rx} 19

Greek influence on Roman cookery, p. 12, seq.
---- Banquet, by Anacharsis, p. 8

Greek monographs, p. 43

Green beans, p. 247, {Rx} 202, 206

Greens, green vegetables, {Rx} 99

Grimod de la Reynière, writer, p. 4, cf. Mappa

Gruel, p. 210; {Rx} 172, 200-1, seq. ---- and wine, {Rx} 179-80

GRUS, crane; GRUEM, {Rx} 212-3; ---- EX RAPIS, {Rx} 215-6

Gryphius, S., printer, Apiciana No. 6, facsimile of title, p. 263

Guégan, Bertrand, editor, p. 271, seq.

Guinea Hen, {Rx} 239, cf. "Turkey Origin," by the author, Hotel
Bulletin and The Nation's Chefs, for February and March, 1935,
Chicago

GULA, gluttony

GUSTUS, taste; also appetizers and relishes and certain entrées of a
meal, Hors d'oeuvres. Cf. CENA, {Rx} 174-77

H

Habs, R., writer, p. 18

HAEDUS, HAEDINUS, kid, {Rx} 291-3, 355, seq.
---- SYRINGIATUS, {Rx} 360; ---- PARTHICUM, {Rx} 364; ----
TARPEIANUM, {Rx} 363; ---- LAUREATUM EX LACTE, {Rx} 365;
---- LASARATUM, {Rx} 496

HALEC, see ALEC

HALIEUS, HALIEUTICUS, pertaining to fish; title of Book X, p. 356

Ham, fresh, p. 285, {Rx} 287-9

HAND-MILL, operated by Slaves, illustration, p. 60

HAPANTAMYNOS, {Rx} 497

Harcum, C. G., writer, see COQUUS

Hard-skinned peaches, to keep, {Rx} 28

Hare, B. VIII, {Rx} 382, seq. ---- imitation, {Rx} 384; ----
braised, {Rx} 382-3; ---- different dressings, {Rx} 383; ----
Stuffed, {Rx} 384, 91; ---- white sauce for, {Rx} 385; ---- lights
of, {Rx} 386-7; ---- liver, {Rx} 170; ---- in its own broth, {Rx}
388; ---- smoked Passenianus, {Rx} 389; ---- tidbits, kromeskis,
{Rx} 390; ---- boiled, {Rx} 393; ---- spiced sauce, {Rx} 393;
---- sumptuous style, {Rx} 394; ---- spiced, {Rx} 395

Haricot of lamb, {Rx} 355

HARPAGO, a meat hook for taking boiled meat out of the pot, with
five or more prongs; hence "harpoon." Cf. FURCA

"Haut-goût" in birds, to overcome it, {Rx} 229-30

Headcheese, {Rx} 125

Heathcock, {Rx} 218, seq.

HELENIUM, plant similar to thyme(?); the herb elecampane or starwort

Heliogabalus, emperor, p. 11

HEMINA, a measure, about half a pint

Henry VIII, of England, edict on kitchens, p. 156

HERBAE RUSTICAE, {Rx} 107

Herbs, pot herbs, to keep, {Rx} 25

Hildesheim Treasure, found in 1868, a great collection of Roman
silverware, now in the Kaiser Friedrich Museum, Berlin, our
illustrations show a number of these pieces, p. 43

Hip, dog-briar, {Rx} 171

HIRCOSIS AVIBUS, DE, {Rx} 229-30

Hirpinus, Fluvius, Roman, {Rx} 323, 396, who raised animals for
the table

HISPANUM, see Oleum

HOEDUS, see HAEDUS

HOLERA, pot herbs, {Rx} 25, 66; also OLERA and HOLISERA, from HOLUS

HOLUS, OLUS, kitchen vegetables, particularly cabbage, {Rx} 99

Home-made sweets, {Rx} 294

Honey cakes, {Rx} 16

Honey Refresher, {Rx} 2; ---- cake, {Rx} 16; ---- to renew spoiled,
{Rx} 17; testing quality of, {Rx} 18; ---- pap, {Rx} 181; see also
Chap. XIII, Book VII

Horace, writer, pp. 3, 4, 273, {Rx} 455

HORDEUM, barley

Horned fish, {Rx} 442

Hors d'oeuvres, {Rx} 174; cf. GUSTUS

HORTULANUS, gardener, Hortolanus, pork, {Rx} 378

Horseradish, {Rx} 102

House of the Oven in Pompeii, illustration, p. 2

Humelbergius, Gabriel, editor, {Rx} 307; title page of his 1542
edition, p. 265

Hunter style, {Rx} 263

HYDROGARATA, foods, sauces prepared with GARUM (which see) and
water, {Rx} 172

HYDROMELI, rain water and honey boiled down one third

HYPOTRIMA, --IMMA, a liquid dish, soup, sauce, ragout, composed of
many spiced things, {Rx} 35

HYSITIUM, ISICIUM, a mince, a hash, a sausage, forcemeat, croquette,
{Rx} 41-56. The term "croquette" used by Gollmer does not fully
cover H.; some indeed, resemble modern croquettes and kromeskis very
closely. The ancients, having no table forks and only a few knives
(which were for the servants' use in carving) were fond of such
preparations as could be partaken of without table ware. The
reclining position at table made it almost necessary for them to eat
H.; such dishes gave the cooks an opportunity for the display of
their skill, inventive ability, their decorative and artistic sense.
As "predigested" food, such dishes are decided preferable to the
"_grosses-pièces_," which besides energetic mastication require
skillful manipulation of fork and knife; such exercise was unwelcome
on the Roman couches. Modern nations, featuring "_grosses-pièces_"
do this at the expense of high-class cookery. The word, H., is
probably a medieval graecification of INSICIUM. Cf. ISICIA

HYSSOPUS, the herb hyssop; H. CRETICUS, marjoram. Also Hysopum
creticum, hyssop from the island of Creta, {Rx} 29

I

IECUR, JECUR, liver; {Rx} 291-3. IECUSCULUM, small (poultry, etc.)
liver

Ihm, Max, writer, p. 19

Ill-smelling fish sauce, {Rx} 9; ditto birds, {Rx} 229-30

Indian peas, {Rx} 187

Ink-fish, {Rx} 405

INSICIA, chopped meat, sausage, forcemeat, dressing, stuffing for
roasts, {Rx} 42; see Hysitia and Isicia; --ARIUS, sausage maker

INTINCTUS, a sauce, seasoning, brine or pickle in which meat, etc.,
is dipped. See EMBAMMA, {Rx} 344

INTUBUS, INTYBUS, --UM, chicory, succory, endive, {Rx} 109

INULA HELENIUM, the herb elecampane or starwort

ISICIA, see HYSITIA, {Rx} 41-54, 145
---- AMULATA AB AHENO, {Rx} 54; ---- DE CAMMARIS, {Rx} 43; ---- DE
CEREBELLIS, {Rx} 45; ---- DE LOLLIGINE, {Rx} 42; ---- DE SPONDYLIS,
{Rx} 46; ---- DE PULLO, {Rx} 50; ---- DE SCILLIS, {Rx} 43; ----
HYDROGARATA, {Rx} 49; ---- PLENA, {Rx} 48; ---- SIMPLEX, {Rx} 52;
---- DE TURSIONE, {Rx} 145

Italian Salad, {Rx} 123

IUS, JUS, any juice or liquid, or liquor derived from food, a broth,
soup, sauce. IUSCELLUM, more frequently and affectionately, IUSCULUM,
the diminutive of I.
---- DE SUO SIBI, pan-gravy; such latinity as this proves the
genuineness of the Apicius text, {Rx} 153; ---- IN DIVERSIS
AVIBUS, {Rx} 210-228; ---- IN ELIXAM, {Rx} 271-7; ---- IN
VENATIONIBUS, {Rx} 349, seq. ---- DIABOTANON, {Rx} 432; ---- IN
PISCE ELIXO, {Rx} 433-6; ---- ALEXANDRINUM, {Rx} 437-9; ----
CONGRO, {Rx} 440; ---- IN CORNUTAM, {Rx} 441; ---- IN MULLOS,
{Rx} 442-3; ---- PELAMYDE, {Rx} 444; ---- IN PERCAM, {Rx} 446;
---- IN MURENA, {Rx} 448, 449-52; ---- IN PISCE ELIXO, {Rx} 454;
---- IN LACERTOS ELIXOS, {Rx} 455; ---- PISCE ASSO, {Rx} 456;
---- THYNNO, {Rx} 457; ---- ELIXO, {Rx} 458; ---- IN DENTICE
ASSO, {Rx} 459-60; ---- IN PISCE AURATA, {Rx} 461-2; ---- IN
SCORPIONE, {Rx} 463; ---- PISCE OENOGARUM, {Rx} 464-5; ----
ANGUILLAM, {Rx} 466-7

J

Jardinière, {Rx} 378

JECINORA, {Rx} 291

Jewish Cookery, compared with Apician, {Rx} 205

Johannes de Cereto de Tridino, Venetian printer, p. 261

John of Damascus, see Torinus edition of 1541, Basel

Julian Meal Mush, {Rx} 178

K

Keeping meat and fish, {Rx} 10-14, seq.

Kettner, writer, p. 38

Kid, p. 314, {Rx} 355, seq. ---- liver, {Rx} 291-93; ---- stew, {Rx}
355-8; ---- roast, {Rx} 359-62; ---- boned, {Rx} 360-1; ----
Tarpeius, {Rx} 363-4; ---- Prize, {Rx} 365; ---- plain, {Rx} 366;
---- laser, {Rx} 496

Kidney beans, {Rx} 207-8

King, Dr. W., writer, quoted: Introduction, pp. 38, 267

Kromeskis, {Rx} 44, 47, 60; cf. ISICIA and HYSITIA

Kyrene, Cyrene, City of Northern Africa, see Laser

L

Labor item in cookery, pp. 18, 24

LAC, milk; ---- FISSILE, cottage cheese

LACERTUS, a sea-fish, not identified, {Rx} 147, 152, 455-7

LACTARIS, having milk, made of milk; --IUS, dairyman

LACTES, small guts, chitterlings

LACTUA, LACTUCULA, lettuce, {Rx} 105, 109-11

LAGANUM, a certain farinaceous dish; small cake made of flour and
oil, a pan cake

LAGENA, --ONA, --OENA, --UNA, flask, bottle

Lamb, {Rx} 291-3, 355-65, 495-6; preparations same as Kid, which see

Lambecius, Petrus, writer, on "The Porker's Last Will," {Rx} 376

Lanciani, Rodolfo, writer, pp. 29, 30

Lancilotus, Blasius, co-editor, 1498-1503 editions, pp. 27-30, 41
--see also Tacuinus
--facsimile of opening chapter, 1503, p. 232

Langoust, {Rx} 485

LANX, broad platter, dish, charger, {Rx} 455

LAPA, LAPATHUM, LAPADON, same as RUMEX, {Rx} 26

Larding, {Rx} 394

LARIDUM, LARDUM, {Rx} 147, 290; cf. SALSUM

LASER, LASERPITIUM, --ICIUM, the juice or distillate of the herb by
that name, also known as SILPHIUM, SYLPHIUM, Greek, SYLPHION. Some
agree that this is our present asa foetida, while other authorities
deny this. Some claim its home is in Persia, while others say the
best LASER came from Cyrene (Kyrene), Northern Africa. The center
picture of the so-called Arkesilas-Bowl of Vulci at Paris, Cab. d.
Méd. 189, represents a picture as seen by the artist in Kyrene how
King Arkesilas (VI. saec.) watches the weighing and the stowing away
in the hold of a sailing vessel of a costly cargo of sylphium. It
was an expensive and very much esteemed flavoring agent, and, for
that reason, the plant which grew only in the wild state, was
probably exterminated

There is much speculation, but its true nature will not be revealed
without additional information

{Rx} 15, 31, 32, 34, 100; p. 22

Method of flavoring with laser-impregnated nuts, {Rx} 15

LASERATUS, LASARATUS, prepared or seasoned with LASER, or SILPHIUM

Latin title of Vehling translation, opposite title page

LAUREATUM, prepared with LAURUS; also in the sense of excellence in
quality, {Rx} 365, 373

LAURUS CINNAMOMUM, cinnamon; ---- NOBILIS, laurel leaf, bay leaf

La Varenne, French cook, p. 16

Laws, sumptuary, p. 25, {Rx} 166

Laxatives, {Rx} 4, 5, 6, 29, 34

Leeks, p. 188, {Rx} 93-6; ---- and beans, {Rx} 96

LEGUMEN, leguminous plants; all kinds of pulse-peas, beans lentils,
etc., Book V

LENS, LENTICULA, lentils, {Rx} 183-4

LEPIDIUM SATIVUM, watercress

LEPOREM MADIDUM, {Rx} 382, seq. ---- FARSUM, {Rx} 384; ----
PASSENIANUM, {Rx} 389; ---- ISICIATUM, {Rx} 390; ---- FARSILEM, {Rx}
391; ---- ELIXIUM, {Rx} 392; ---- SICCO SPARSUM, {Rx} 394; ----
LEPORIS CONDITURA, {Rx} 393-5

LEPUS, hare; LEPUSCULUM, young hare; LEPORARIUM, a place for keeping
hare; LEPORINUM MINUTAL, minced hare, Hasenpfeffer, {Rx} 382-395

Lettuce, B. V, {Rx} 105, 109-111; ---- and endives, {Rx} 109; ----
purée of, {Rx} 130

LEUCANTHEMIS, camomile

LEUCOZOMUS, "creamed," prepared with milk, {Rx} 250

Lex Fannia, {Rx} 166

Liaison, lié, {Rx} 54; cf. AMYLARE

LIBELLI, little ribs, spare ribs, also loin of pork, {Rx} 251

LIBRA, weight, 1 pound (abb. "lb." still in use); LIBRAE, balances,
scales

LIBURNICUM, see oil, oleum

LIGUSTICUM, lovage (from Liguria) also LEVISTICUM; identical with
garden lovage, savory, basilica, satury, etc.

LIQUORIBUS, DE, p. 370

LIQUAMEN, any kind of culinary liquid, depending upon the occasion.
It may be interpreted as brine, stock, gravy, jus, sauce, drippings,
marinade, natural juice; it must be interpreted in the broadest
sense, as the particular instance requires. This much disputed term
has been illustrated also in page 22. Also see {Rx} 9, 42

Liquids, Summary of, p. 370
---- thickening of, by means of flour, eggs, etc., called Liaison,
cf. AMYLARE

Lister, Dr. Martinus, editor, edition of 1705, title page, ditto,
verso of, ditto of 1709, p. 38; frontispice
---- quoted in many foot notes, {Rx} 8, seq.
---- assailing Torinus, p. 13, {Rx} 15, 26, 100, 205
---- edition, 1709, facsimile, p. 250

Liver kromeskis, {Rx} 44; fig-fed, of pig, {Rx} 259-60; ---- and
lungs, {Rx} 291-3; ---- hash, {Rx} 293; ---- of fish, see GARUM and
Pollio

Lobster, {Rx} 398, 399, 400, 401, 2; in various ways

LOCUSTA, a langoust, spiny lobster, large lobster without claws;
{Rx} 397-402, 485; ---- ASSAE, {Rx} 398; ---- ELIXAE, {Rx} 399, 401-2

Loins, p. 285, {Rx} 286

LOLIGO, LOLLIGO, calamary, cuttle-fish, {Rx} 42, 405

LOLIUM, LOLA, darnel, rye-grass, ray-grass, meal. The seeds of this
grass were milled, the flour or meal believed to possess some
narcotic properties, as stated by Ovid and Plautus, but recent
researches have cast some doubt upon its reported deleterious
qualities. Apicius, {Rx} 50, reads LOLAE FLORIS

LONGANO, a blood sausage, {Rx} 61. The LONGANONES PORCINOS EX IURE
TARENTINO in {Rx} 140 is a part of the PATINA EX LACTE; a pork
sausage made in Tarent of the straight gut, the rectum. Lister says
they are cooked in Tarentinian sauce and are not unlike the sausage
called APEXABO and HILLA. These sausages were in vogue before the
Italians learned to make them; it was in Epirus, Greece, that they
were highly developed. Their importation into Rome caused quite a
stir, politically. Lister, {Rx} 50, p. 119, describes the sausage
and calls the inhabitants of Tarent "most voluptuous, soft and
delicate" because Juvenal, Sat. VI, v. 297, takes a shot at Tarent

This part of Italy, and especially Sicily, because in close contact
with Greece was for many years much farther advanced in art of
cookery than the North

Lucania, district of lower Italy whence came the Lucanian sausage,
p. 172, {Rx} 61; see also LONGANO

LUCIUS FLUVIALIS, a river fish, perch, or pike, according to some;
Platina also calls it LICIUS. Cf. MERULA

Lucretian Dish, {Rx} 151

Lucullus, Roman general, proverbial glutton, has a place here
because of his importation into Rome of the cherry, which he
discovered in Asia Minor. He cannot be expected to be represented in
the Apicius book because he died 57 B.C.

LUCUSTA, see LOCUSTA

LUMBUS, loin, (Ger. LUMMEL), {Rx} 286; LUMBELLI, {Rx} 255

Lung, {Rx} 291-2

LUPINUS, lupine

LUPUS, fish, {Rx} 158

M

MACELLARIUS, MACELLINUS, market man, butcher

MACELLUM, market

MACERO, to soak, soften, steep in liquor, macerate; MACERATUM, food
thus treated

MACTRA, trough for kneading dough

MAGIRUS, MAGEIROS, cook, see COQUUS

MALABATHRUM --THRON, {Rx} 32, 399

Mallows, {Rx} 86

MALUS, fruit tree, apple tree; ---- PUNICORUM, pomegranate; ----
ASSYRIA, ---- CITRUS DECUMANA, one of the larger citrus fruits; ----
MEDICA, citron tree; ---- CYDONIA, quince tree

MALUM, fruit, an apple, but quinces, pomegranates, peaches, oranges,
lemons, and other fruits were likewise designated by this name. {Rx}
18, 20. See also CITRUM

It is remarkable that Apicius does not specifically speak of lemons
and oranges, fruits that must have grown in Italy at his time, that
are so indispensable to modern cookery

MALUM PUNICUM, {Rx} 20, 21; ---- CYDONIUM, {Rx} 21; ---- GRANATUM,
{Rx} 20; ---- MEDICUM, {Rx} 24; ---- ROSEUM, {Rx} 178, 171. This name,
which according to Schuch simply stands for a rose-colored apple,
has led to the belief that the ancients made pies, etc., of roses.
Today a certain red-colored apple is known as "Roman Beauty." We
concur in Schuch's opinion, remembering, however, that the fruit of
the rose tree, namely the hip, dog-briar, or eglantine, is made into
dainty confections on the Continent today. It is therefore quite
possible that MALUM ROSEUM stands for the fruit of the rose

MANDUCO, to chew, to munch, to enjoy food by munching; a glutton

MAPPA, table napkin (Fr. nappe). M. is a Punic word, according to
Quintil. 1, 5, 57

Each banquet guest brought with him from his own home such a napkin
or cloth which he used during the banquet to wipe his mouth and
hands. The ancients, evidently, were conscious of the danger of
infection through the common use of napkins and table ware.
Sometimes they used their napkins to wrap up part of the meal and to
give it to their slaves to carry home in. Horace, Martial, Petronius
attest to this fact. The banquet guests also employed their own
slaves to wait on them at their Host's party. This custom and the
individual napkin habit have survived until after the French
revolution. Grimod de la Reynière, in his Almanach des Gourmands,
Paris, 1803, seq., describes how guests furnished their own napkins
and servants for their own use at parties to which they were invited

This rather sensible custom relieved the host of much responsibility
and greatly assisted him in defraying the expenses of the dinner. On
the other hand it reveals the restrictions placed upon any host by
the general shortage of table ware, table linen, laundering
facilities in the days prior to the mechanical age

Marcellus, a Roman physician, {Rx} 29

Marinade, pickle; a composition of spices, vegetables, herbs, and
liquids, such as vinegar, wine, to preserve meats for several days
and to impart to it a special flavor, {Rx} 11, 236, 244, 394; cf.
EMBAMMA

MARJORANA, marjoram

Marmites, illustrated, pp. 264, 284, 312, 342

MARRUBIUM, the plant horehound

Martial, writer, p. 10, {Rx} 307, 461 (on bulbs)

Martino, Maestro, p. 3, cf. Vehling: Martino and Platina, Exponents
of Renaissance Cookery, Hotel Bulletin and The Nation's Chefs,
Chicago, October, 1932, and Platina, Maestro nell'arte culinaria
Un'interessante studio di Joseph D. Vehling, Cremona, 1935

Mason, Mrs., a writer, {Rx} 126

MASTIX, MASTICE, MASTICHE, the sweet-scented gum of the
mastiche-tree; hence MASTICATUS, MASTICINUS for foods treated with
M.

Matius, a writer, was a friend of Julius Caesar. His work is lost,
{Rx} 167; apples named after him, _ibid._

MAYONNAISE DE VOLAILLE EN ASPIC, {Rx} 126, 480

Meal mush, Book V, {Rx} 178

Measures, liquid. The following list is confined to terms used in
Apicius
PARTES XV equal 1 CONGIUS
CONGIUS I equal 6 SEXTARII (1 S. equals about 1-1/2 pt. English)
SEXTARII II equal 1 CHOENIX
SEXTARIUS I equal 2 HEMINAS
HEMINA I equal 4 ACETABULA
ACETABULUM I equal 12 CYATHI (15 Attic drachms)
CYATHUS I equal 1/12 SEXTARIUS (a cup)
COCHLEAR I equal 1/4 CYATHUS (a spoonful)
COTULA, COTYLA, same as HEMINA, same as 1/2 SEXTARIUS
QUARTARIUS I equal 1/4 pint

Meat ball, {Rx} 261, seq. ---- with laser, {Rx} 472-3; meat, boiled,
stewed, {Rx} 271; keeping of, {Rx} 10, 13; how to make pickled meat
sweet, {Rx} 12; to decorate or garnish, {Rx} 394, (see marinade); meat
pudding, {Rx} 42; ---- loaf, {Rx} 384, 172

Meat displayed in windows, p. 73; ancient ---- diet, p. 31; ancient
---- supply, p. 31

Meat diet, ancient, pp. 30, 31

Meat supply, ancient and modern, p. 31

Medicinal formulae in Apicius, {Rx} 4, 5, 6, 29, 34, 67, 68, 68, 70,
71, 108, 111, 307

MEDIUM, an iris or lily root which was preserved (candied) with
honey, same as ginger, or fruit glacé

Medlar, {Rx} 159; see MESPILA

Megalone, place where Torinus found the Apicius codex, p. 266

MEL, honey; MELLITUM, sweetened with honey
---- PRAVUM, {Rx} 15; ---- PROBANDUM, {Rx} 16; ---- ET CASEUM,
{Rx} 303

MELCAE, {Rx} 294, 303

MELEAGRIS, Turkey; cf. Vehling: "Turkey Origin," Hotel Bulletin and
The Nation's Chefs, Chicago, February-March, 1935

MELIRHOMUM, MELIZOMUM, {Rx} 2

MELO, small melon, B. III, {Rx} 85; MELOPEPO, muskmelon

Melon, {Rx} 85

MENSA, repast, see CENA

MENTHA, MINTHA, mint; ---- PIPERITA, peppermint

"Menu," cf. Brevis Ciborum, Excerpts of Vinidarius, p. 235

Merling, see MERULA

MERULA, MERLUCIUS, cf. LUCIUS, a fish called merling, whiting, also
smelt; Fr. MERLAN; also blackbird. Platina discussed MERULA, the
blackbird, the eating of which he disapproves. "There is little food
value in the meat of blackbirds and it increases melancholia," says
he. Perhaps because the bird is "black," {Rx} 419

MERUS, MERUM, pure, unmixed, "mere," "merely"; hence MERUM VINUM,
---- OLEUM, pure wine, oil, etc.

MESPILA, medlar; Ger. MISPEL

Milan edition, Colophon, p. 260

Milk Toast, {Rx} 171

Mill operated by slaves, illustration, p. 60

Minced dishes, Book II

Mineral salts in vegetables, {Rx} 71, 96

MINUTAL, a "small" dish, a "minutely" cut mince; ---- MARINUM, {Rx}
164; ---- TARENTINUM, {Rx} 165; ---- APICIANUM, {Rx} 166; ----
MATIANUM, {Rx} 167; ---- DULCE, {Rx} 168; ---- EX PRAECOQUIS, {Rx}
169; ---- LEPORINUM, {Rx} 170; ---- EX ROSIS, {Rx} 171; ---- of
large fruits, {Rx} 169

MITULIS, IN, {Rx} 418

Mixing bowls, see Crater

Monk's Rhubarb, {Rx} 26

"Monkey," {Rx} 55

Moralists, ancient, see Review

MORETUM, salad, salad dressing of oil, vinegar, garlic, parsley,
etc., cf. {Rx} 38

Morsels, {Rx} 261, seq., 309, seq.

MORTARIA, foods prepared in the mortar, MORTARIUM, {Rx} 38, 221

MORUS, mulberry; ---- ALBA, white m. ---- NIGRA, black m. Platina,
DE MORIS, has a very pretty simile, comparing the various stages of
ripening and colors of the mulberry to the blushing of Thysbes, the
Egyptian girl, {Rx} 24

Moulds, {Rx} 384, 126

MUGIL, sea-mullet, {Rx} 159, 419, 424, 425

Mulberries, {Rx} 24

Mullet, see MULLUS, {Rx} 148, 428, 443-4

MULLUS, the fish mullet, {Rx} 148, 427, 442, 443, 482-4

MULSUM, mead, honey-wine; ---- ACETUM, honey-vinegar

Munich Ms. XVIII Apiciana

MURENA, MURAENA, the sea fish murena, p. 356, {Rx} 448-53, 484

MUREX, shellfish, purple-fish

MURIA, brine, salt liquor, p. 22, {Rx} 30; cf. ALEC

Mush, {Rx} 178

Mushrooms, B. III, {Rx} 121, 309-14; ---- Omelette, {Rx} 314

Muskrat, {Rx} 396

Mussels, {Rx} 418

MUSTEIS PETASONEM, {Rx} 289

MUSTEOS AFROS, {Rx} 295

MUSTUM, fresh, young, new; ---- VINUM, must, new wine; ---- OLEI,
new oil

MYRISTICA, nutmeg

MYRRHIS ODORATA, myrrh, used for flavoring wine

MYRTUS, myrtle berry, often called "pepper" and so used instead of
pepper

MYRTUS PIMENTA, allspice

N

NAPKINS, individual, see MAPPA

NAPUS, p. 188, a turnip, navew, {Rx} 100-1

NARDUS, nard, odoriferous plant; see FOLIUM

NASTURTIUM, the herb cress

NECHON, {Rx} 16

Neck, roast, {Rx} 270

NEPATA, cat-mint; ---- MONTANA, mountain mint; see MENTHA

Nero, emperor, p. 11

Nettles, {Rx} 108

New York codex, No. I, Apiciana

Newton, Sir Isaac, scientist, Apiciana No. 8, p. 268

NITRIUM, {Rx} 66

Nonnus, writer, {Rx} 307, 396

NOVENDIALES, see CENA

NUCEA LASERIS, {Rx} 16; also see LASER

NUCLEUS, nut, kernel, {Rx} 92

NUCULA, dim. of NUX, small nut; also a certain muscular piece of
meat from the hind leg of animals, Fr. NOIX DE VEAU, as of veal,
Ger. KALBSNUSS, and a certain small part of the loin of animals, Fr.
NOISETTE

NUMIDICUS, PULLUS, guinea hen, which see

Nut custard, turn-over, {Rx} 129, 143; ---- porridge, {Rx} 297-9;
---- pudding, {Rx} 298, 299, 230; ---- meal mush, {Rx} 300

Nuts, Summary of, p. 236

NUX, p. 236, a nut, both hazel nut and walnut; ---- JUGLANDIS,
walnut; ---- PINEIS, ---- PINEA, pine nuts, pignolia; ---- MUSCATA,
nutmeg

O

OBLIGABIS, {Rx} 83; also see AMYLARE

OBSONARE, to provide, to buy for the table; to prepare or to give a
dinner; from the Greek, OPSON

OBSONATOR, steward

OBSONIUM, OP--, a dish, a meal, anything eaten with bread

OCIMUM, --YMUM, --UMUM, OCINUM, basil, basilica; also a sort of
clover

OENOGARUM, wine and GARUM (which see), a wine sauce, {Rx} 33, 146,
465; OENOGARATUM, a dish prepared with O.

OENOMELI, wine and honey

OENOPOLIUM, wine shop; a wine dealer's place, who, however, did a
retail business. The TABERNA VINARIA seems to have been the regular
wine restaurant, while the THERMOPOLIUM specialized in hot spiced
wines. Like today in our complicated civilization, there were in
antiquity a number of different refreshment places, each with its
specialties and an appropriate name for the establishment

OENOTEGANON, {Rx} 479, 81

OFFA, OFFELLA, OFELLA, a lump or ball of meat, a "Hamburger Steak,"
a meat dumpling, any bit of meat, a morsel, chop, small steak,
collop, also various other "dainty" dishes, consisting principally
of meat

"INTER OS ET OFFAM MULTA INTERVENIUNT"--Cato; the ancient equivalent
for our "'twixt cup and lip there is many a slip"
{Rx} 261; ---- APICIANA, {Rx} 262; ---- APRUGNEA MORE, {Rx} 263;
---- ALIAE, {Rx} 264-5; ---- LASERATA, {Rx} 271; ---- GARATAS,
{Rx} 471-74; ---- ASSAS, {Rx} 472, 473

Oil substitute, {Rx} 9; ---- oil, to clarify for frying {Rx} 250
---- Liburnian, {Rx} 7

OLEUM, oil, olive oil; ---- LIBURNICUM, {Rx} 7; HISPANUM, Spanish
olive oil
OLEATUS, moistened, mixed, dressed with oil, 103; ---- MOLLE,
vegetables strained, a purée, {Rx} 103-106; also HOLUS, etc.

OLIFERA, OLYRA, a kind of corn, spelt, {Rx} 99; see OLUS

OLIVA, olive, {Rx} 30, 91; to keep olives green, {Rx} 30

OLLA, a cook pot, a terra-cotta bowl; see also CACCABUS. OLLULA, a
small O., a casserole, or cassolette. Sp. OLLA PODRIDA, "rotten pot"

OLUS, OLUSATRUM, OLUSTRUM, OLUSCULUM, OLERA, OLISERA, OLIFERA,
OLISATRA, any herb, kitchen greens, pot herbs, sometimes cabbage,
from OLITOR, the truck farmer, {Rx} 25, 67, 99, 103
OLUS ET CAULUS, cabbage and cale, {Rx}

OLUSATRUM, see OLUS

Omelette with sardines, {Rx} 146; ---- with mushrooms, {Rx} 314;
---- Soufflée, {Rx} 302