Chapter X: Part II: Dr. Covel’s Diary (4)

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_May 6th._ To _Karesterán_[299] 6 h., miles 17. Going from _Chiorloo_, about a little mile, we passe a little river; over it was an old stone bridge, almost broken down, which have had 4 arches. Just half way to _Karesterán_ we passe a good large river, though in sommer it is almost damn’d up with sand; there is a good large bridge over it of wood, but slight timbers in it. All the way it was still Champion ground, most like a black moorish soyl, yet I judged it lighter than that on the other side _Ciorlóo_, because we saw severall ploughs with but 4 oxen in them, and those yoaked all abreast. The town has its name from _Karismack_, _i.e._, to mingle or knead; for the least rayn (as we experienced when we were there) makes the spongy, soapy (fuller’s) earth just like past. Upon the S.E. side of the Town, about one quarter of a mile, runs a small river, but very strong stream; there is a bridge there with 8 arches and about 100 paces in length. The river may easily in many places be leapt over; yet in winter the water overflows farre. From a delicate cleer fountain on the same side the town beyond this river, upon the side of the hill (to our right hand, as we descend to come hither), is an Aquæduct brought, and in the valley are three steps or pyramids built to divide the water into severall trunks, as also to let the overplus run in winter, without prejudice to the course of the rest. Just about the spring growes infinite of excellent _scordium_,[300] which I have found an excellent preservative against the plague. Here is a very good Mosch here, and a large _cháne_. The town is enriched onely by travailers; at present it is but small, and built but in latter times out of the mines of Miso.

_May 7th._ To _Bourgas_[301] 4 h., miles 12. About 2 or 3 miles from _Carestéran_ are several decay’d fountaines by the road side. At 4 mile is a very good fountain that runs plentifully, with cisternes for horses to drink. A little farther are several little rills, with one arch’t bridges over them, and hard by a pretty big river, but no bridge. Just half way on the left hand, on the very road, is raysed a good great hill, with a _fossa_[302] about it, and an entrance on the side next the road up to it. I take it to be a monument of the dead, slain in some battle fought upon these plaines. We have observed many such, as shall be say’d: it was an antient custome and right paid to kings (as about Gallopoly) and inferior persons. It is as high as Bartlow hills, but the fossa is in a manner fill’d up. From the top we counted 12 villages spread round about; it is seen almost to _Burgas_. Within two mile of _Burgas_ the earth alters to a lighter kind of sandy soyl, yet Plowmen were there breaking up with 6 yoak of oxen in a plough.

Burgás is a pretty large market town. We passe over a pretty street or two; then came a most stately _Cháne_, having a fair square court and large fountain in the middest of it, and cloysters round about; then fine apartments able to hold well nigh 1,000 travaylers with their beasts. This is joyned to a very brave _Mosch_ by a large _Cupola_ crosse the main road, supported by 4 arches (28½ feet wide); the street passe under two, and the passage from the _Cháne_ to the Mosch goes under the other. Entering into the Kháne (for you must pronounce it in the throat) sit many shopkeepers; amongst the rest, the finest Tobacco-pipe heads are sold there that are to be found in Turkey. The Town is all Turkish, and very populous for the bignesse. Mahomet, Vizierarém[303] to Sultan Solyman, had a son, Bassa of Morea; complaints were made of him at court. The G. Signor bid him advise his son to do better. He, without any more adoe, sent and took of his head and presented it to the G. S., who for his severe government in that point gave him all his son’s estate (which otherwise falls to the G. S.), with which he built several noble buildings, whereof this _Kháne_ and Mosch are none of the least. On the W. side the Town (which we past the next day) runs a small river, on which stands a Turkish mill, driving 3 pair of quernes (each mill grinding 10 _Kilos_ or bushels of wheat in 12 houres), and yet the water there is not so wide but I could easily step over it. They are Greekes that forme the mill, which belong to Ἁγιαβὰλὰκ, a little town (concerning which more presently) hard by. There is also just by this town a tile kill, formed by other Greekes of the same place; though the soyl all the way hither is black and spongy moorish ground, yet here is so good a naturall mixture of sand as to make most excellent tile. Over the river, going out of town, is a bridge of 4 arches, long in all 146 paces; the stream is nothing in sommer, but the Town standing in a kind of pan in winter, it must needs be great. The stone with which this bridge is built is such a porous kind of hard _pumex_ as I never beheld; it seem’d to me to have been made of clay and pills of sand, which afterwards mouldring away might cause those eyes. Down the river hard by is a Turkish town cal’d _Múctary_.

_May 8th._ To _Bobbás-cui_ 4½ h., miles 13. About a mile from Burgas, standing upon a little hill on the left hand, we saw ἁγιαβαλὰκ, a little Greek town (as is said), but very populous, there being now above 400 familyes in it, many of the men going out to work all the week (as before is intimated), and returning on Saturday, live very well, they being farre more industrious then any of the Greekes I ordinarily ever met with. About six mile of from _Bobbas-cui_ we crossed a little brook; a mile and ½ farther another; as far again a third, with bridge, all almost dry. An old Turk took it from the Christians, and from him it is now so named, for _bobbá_[304] is the common name for _Father_, and is given to every old man in common discourse. He lyes buryed in St. Nicholas’ church, the one thing remaining of the Greekes memoriall or building here. It is made a place of prayer, and he is reckoned a great saint amongst the common people. When we went into it to see his tomb we met another old Turk, who had brought three candles, and presented them to an old woman that looks after it, and shews it to strangers. He said he had made a vow in distresse to do it. The old woman told us: Yes, my sons, when ever you are in danger pray to this good holy man, and he will infallibly help you. Oh, fye! sister, quoth the old Turk, do not so vainly commit sin, for he was a mortall man and a sinner as well as we. I know it, quoth the old wife, that onely God doth all, and he doth nothing; but God for his sake will the sooner hear us; and so ended that point of Turkish divinity. This Church is standing pretty intire. It is but little (as I above said, I guesse most others were), but very handsome, in the same forme almost with Sta. Sophia, with a great _Cupola_ over the body of it; but the outward wall is scaloped. On the east side the town as we goe in runs a little pretty river just under this church, and hath a very well built stone bridge as ever I saw for the bignesse, of a very hard freestone. It is broad enough for 3 carts to goe abreast. It is 232 of my paces, beside the ascents at each end. It hath 6 little arches in the midst, and severall little flood-gates on each flank. All stones are rob’d here, likewise to build their Moschs, which here are 3 or 4, one very fine one. The town is a pretty large town, and will dayly increase. _Ibrahim bassa_ (now General of the Turks’ army), in bringing an Aquæduct thither, the shafts were open’d not far of from the W. side the town.

_May 9th._ To _Háfsa_,[305] 6 houres, miles 18. Going a little out of Bobbas-cui, on the left hand, is another great hill, cast up, I suppose, on the same account with that between _Coresteran_ and _Burgas_, but not so big, nor so high. Upon the Top of it lyes now a very long Turkish tomb. That I may here tell you the difference, you must know that they never lay anything over their dead but the earth. All the sides of their tombs are good stone, but above nothing but earth, except in your Royall Mausoleum or those of great men. There they place a cænotaph over the grave, and a great candle at head and feet, and at the head the fashions of the cap he wore, by which is known whether he was a man of the law, or some civil magistrate, or souldjer or woman, etc.

About seven mile on the road we passe a little, little hamlet cal’d _Coophátcui_, or _coophas-cui_. About a mile and ½ from thence (I guesse it half way) we crost a little brook which ran plentifully, but as we return’d it was dry. When we came within 3 or 4 mile of _Háfsa_ we saw the top of mount Rhodope, which lyeth beyond Adrianople to the west, as afterwards shall be sayd. This name is wrote severall wayes, but pronounced all alike. Here is a most noble _Cháne_, farre better then that at _Burgas_, and likewise a _Cupola_ crosse the street, and a fair mosch annext in the same manner there described; but these two latter are as farre inferior as the other is superior. All were built by the same Mahomet Vizierarem, who built those at Burgas; thence they were made in the same fashion. He lyes buried at _Jupe_ (before mention’d) in a fair mausoleum which I have seen; and it is reported of him that he repair’d all the publick bridges in the Turkes’ territoryes from Adrianople into the bounds of Persia; and built as many Moschs and Chánes as there are dayes in the year; and by this means continued Vizier 40 years, an unusual thing in this court, for it is a wonder in this present _Kiuprili_[306] not so much that he succeeded his father, as that he hath staid in so long.

_May 10th._ To _Adrianople_, houres 5½, miles 17. Khavsa lyes S.E. from Adrianople. Getting out of town (which stand low) we again saw upon the first hill Rhodope before us; at 8 miles end we passe a little brook; at 3 miles farther another. With in 2 miles, or little more, of Adrianople is a very good fountain, and fine _Kiosk_ or summer-house by it. Hither comes severall great men in summer to take their pleasure. The city begins to appear about 4 or 5 mile of, and indeed it shews gloriously, as all their citys doe at a distance, but within they are very mean and beastly. The Moschs and _Minarys_ (or steeples), which are very stately, especially Sultan Selim’s mosch,[307] which is the best here, of which more afterwards. The country (as is said) all the way perfect champion ground with pleasant easy hills and fruitful valleys; the soyle generally pretty good, but it is much neglected; and though I have all along mention’d several little villages, yet I assure you this part of Thrace (taken in the whole) is very little inhabited and lesse cultivated. About the townes and villages we saw good husbandry; but elsewhere, I am confident, above 2 thirds of the land lyes unoccupyed, and where they neither plough nor plant vineyards, they feed neither meat nor sheep, nor goat, nor anything else. In many, many miles riding we saw neither corn-field, nor pasture, nor flocks, nor herds, but onely wild neglected champion ground. I have a catalogue of many fine plants observed by the road, but I omitt that, and come now to tell you how we were receiv’d and brought into the city. About 6 mile of the city we were met with all the French and Dutch who, belonging to Pera with us, were then at Adrianople to see sights. At _Soláck chesmi_ (_or the Page’s fountain_), which I just now mention’d, were provided 12 of the G. Signor’s horses for my Lord and his attendance to mount and ride into city with all; they were all admirable good ones, and set out as rich as was possible. I left my own and took one of them, whose bridle, saddle, great stirrups, breast plate, buttock cloth, etc., were either all of beaten gold and silver, or else most richly embroyder’d. My Lord’s horses furniture were set out with jewels and pearles most gloriously. There were groomes appointed to attend upon every horse. By that time we were mounted and got into the road and our ranks; we were met with the _Capigé-pasha_ (the word signifys chief porter), whose office is much like our Master of the Ceremoneys, and the _Chiau’s pasha_ (or head _of the ciauses_, who are like our purcevants or messengers of the green-cloth); these two were in their court vests (Capsitans) of clothe and gold and silver, with rich furres, and horses and furniture suitable. After them followed 70 chiauses in their habits, and severall _cherbigées_ (colonels of the Janizaryes). We all made ... d till the ceremony of use and complement past; then we went into the city in this cavalcade; first the cherbigeés turned back, then the Chiauses, then the _Capigé basha_ and _Chiaus basha_, then my Ld. (having the strangers that met us just before him), then all the English gentlemen, then the servants, then the _torch-bearer_ with Sr. Tho. B., then the coach and 6 horse, then the other (Turgemans) coach; then all the Carts followed. My Ld. had three good horses (of the Companye), richly furnisht out, led by all the way from Pera. The first street was lined with Janissaryes. We were conducted with all this train to the house appointed for my Ld.’s lodgings, and that street had Janisaryes likewise on both sides. There the Turkes and strangers left us. The house we first were allotted was the damn’dest, confounded place that ever mortall man was put into; it was a Jewes house, not half big enough to hold half my Ld.’s family, a mere nest of fleas and cimici,[308] and rats and mice, and stench, surrounded with whole kennells of nasty, beastly Jewes. We made shift that night, and my Ld., sending to the Vizier, had another immediately, which proved very convenient; for here upon these occasions the G. Signor turnes out whome he please (of Jewes or Christians) out of their house, so that it is troublesome and dangerous to them for to have a good house, and in that end of the town there is none, being all Jewes, crowded two or three familyes into a house that hath not more roomes. If the old Jewes were such poisonous beasts, I must needs then allow their frequent washings, and think they needed not touch a dead body to be unclean, for they could not touch a living one without being so; but more of them anon.

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AN ACCOUNT OF OCCURRENCES AT ADRIANOPLE, 1675.

_May 17th._ The Ragusæan Ambassador visited my Ld. His name was Márin Cabóga. The Turkes call this Embassador (alwayes one being at Court here) Dóbra Benedíct, which is as much as good Venetian. He was a lusty, gallant fellow, and I got a very familiar acquaintance with him, and found him merry, cunning in his businesse, but most strangely superstitious as to storyes of witches and such like. One day, being to visit him with a friend of mine, he fell into such discourse, and at last assur’d us that he had met with a Jew woman who, for certain, was a witch. We desir’d to see her. She was cal’d; and when she came, she would not owne any such thing as that she could raise the devil, but she would tell us many charms and tricks: one was, this Signor Cabóga some few dayes before had lost some money, and suspected one of his servants for it. She comes with an Old Testament in Heb[rew], and, tying a key in it at the 51st psalme, hang’d it upon her finger on one side, and upon the finger of another old hag (her camerade) on the other side. Then he began to think of one whom he suspected, and immediately he reads that psalm in any other language which he understand (as he did it in Latine); if the person be guilty, the Bible turnes and drops downe whilst he reads; if he be innocent, it hangs immoveable to the end of the psalme; then he thinks of another, and so begin again. This so possest him as would needs have them shew it us, affirming that when he thought of one person (whome he therefore concluded guilty) it never fail’d. To work go the old hags; he reads; down drops the book. We laught and desir’d we two might hold it upon our fingers (for I perceived the juggle most clearly: it falls with pressing the finger a little stronger then ordinary); he consented, and though he thought of the same person, the book hang’d cleverly to the end in despite of Mother Mumpus.[309] I bad him think of any other person in his mind, as myself, or friend, or the old woman, etc., and before he had gone half way I turned it with as much dexterity as if Mephistophilus himself had been in my Elbo. My gentleman was amazed, but these cunning Jades put a neat conceit in his head. He told us this trick would not do unlesse we were both of us clean; for, said he, it would not do with me at first, for, to tell you the truth, I had been with a prettie girl, but, so soon as I had confest myself, it never fail’d, so that all we could say (if we had 10,000 compurgators, it had been all one) would not persuade him but one of us, or both, had been dabling. I told him of our trick with the Sive, and shewed him the very cheat, both in that and in this, and, with much adoe, we convinct him a little. At last I understood indeed what kind of Conjurers these two women were: they were famous, truely, for raysing (or bringing up) little Devils, but they were all in the shape of pretty wenches. One I had the fortune to see, one as like _Cis Archer_[310] as if some kind spirit had really conveigh’d her own very self hither; and in troth it might be she, for these fairyes, I veryly believe, had flesh and bones. He often recounted to me the dreadful earthquake that happened at Ragusa in Easter week, _1666_[311]; he, being himself in it, gave the greater light and credit to his businesse. He had kil’d a great man in a _rencontre_, and was imprisoned for it, and sentence past upon him to suffer death; he being at his prayers, expecting every moment to be cal’d forth to execution, was, at a suddain, tost from one side of the prison to the other, just under an arch, and that place from whence he was joulted was blown up into the Ayre, as if it had been done with gunpowder. After his fright was a little over, he got out, and in this sad juncture of affaires behaved himself so gallantly, as he was not onely pardon’d, but promoted, having been several times Ambassadore here before. The greatest part of the houses in the Town were shaken down, which was done at one blow, without any antecedaneous trembling or admonition; but after it follow’d a trembling, which ceased not perfectly in 4 yeares after. There were about 400 and odde noblemen before this accident, but not above 140 escaped; yet not one family of them was quite extinct. He onely was left of his. There are not above 18 familyes antient amongst them. From the harths that were in the houses over thrown broke out all over the town a most dreadfull fire, which continued 22 dayes; yet, notwithstanding it, and the other terrible shock of the Earthquake, nothing of their walls or fortifications, or any publick buildings, were harmed in the least, neither was one corn of powder fired, though all their magazines were then full. There was a poor woman servant after 15 dayes digg’d out alive; she had lived in a kitchen all that while, with a little dishwash and oatmeal left there by chance. He saw likewise a little child digd out hanging at the mother’s brest (who was dead) three whole dayes after this sad hap; the child is yet alive. He is a very short man, and behaved himself bravely against the Venetians, who afterwards assailed the town. They pay to the G. Signor a yearly tribute of 12,500 Hungars at 2½ dollars apiece, with _a dazio_ (as the merchants call it); it is often more, as now one is valued at 2⅓ doll. Besides this tribute they are forced to make presents at severall times of great solemnityes, as now the G. Signor sent to them to come and honour the Circumcision of his son and marriage of his daughter. They were much confounded, not having any precedent left of what ever had been pay’d before; but the _Chiá_ (or steward or deputy) to the Vizier favour’d them with a record of what they paid about 80 yeares since in Sultan Morat’s[312] time, which saved them much of what they intended to have given. I was very much obliged to him, for severall times he took me along with him to see sights, and to be treated by the Turks (as you shall hear anon), even to the envy of severall of our company.

_May 19th._ My Ld. had audience with the Vizier for the ceremony of it. It is the same with what is performed here at any audience with the _Caimacham_ or _Bostanje basha_. We were conducted to his Pallace or Seraglio through the City. Two Chiauses (which by order waited upon my Ld. from Stambol continually till he return’d thither again) and all our janizaryes leading of us, and we all following on horseback, we were brought into a pretty large room with a _soffá_[313] (a square raysed about 1½ foot from the ground) covered with carpets very rich, and laid upon the 3 sides next the wall with narrow quilts, or little beds, and great bolsters round, all cover’d with cloth of gold. At audiences at Stambol we putt of our shoes, but here it would be an affront, as if we were afraid to spoil the Vizier’s goods; the like is before the G. Signor. My Lord was placed upon a low stool upon the sofá, and we all stood there close at his back. Round about us stood many Chiauses and other attendants. After about ½ of an houre’s stay in come the Vizier, and drops himselfe down upon the couch crosse-leg’d. My Ld.’s stool was put nearer to him. Just as he came in all the waiters cry’d: Whish, whish, etc., in token of silence (though I never saw such silence even to admiration (as hereafter shall be said) without this sign), and at his setting down they all give a great acclamation, as much as _God blesse the G. Signor and him, etc._ Being thus sat down, my Ld. deliver’d him the King’s letter, and told him that his maister commanded him to do soe, and, with all, to speak something more to him by word of mouth. Amongst other things, my Ld. urged very much the perpetuall friendship of the English, and that in the warres of Candia there appear’d not one English man against them amongst those many other strangers that sided with the Venetians; to which the Vizier answered it was true, he himselfe was witnesse to it. My Ld. thanked him for so speedy an audience. He smiled, and said it was a time of mirth, and the great matters were laid aside awhile, so as he had that leisure. My Lord wish’t it might ever be a time of mirth and joy to him. Many such complements past, though the Vizier was alwayes very brief and sparing in his words, whether out of a formall gravity, or the reall Turkish humour of taciturnity, I know not. He look’t very pleasantly, and, as we were inform’d, with an unusuall sweetnesse; though, at best, I assure you, I thought he had Majesty and state enough in his face all the time, being all the time of a very, very composed countenance, excepting once (as is above said) we fancy’d some shadow of a smile. He is but a little man, and goes (as I often afterwards saw him) a little lamely, and something stooping thereupon, which they say is from many issues which he hath about him for the Sciatica.[314] He hath a small round face, a little short thin black beard, little eyes, little mouth, without any wrinkles in his lips; a smooth round forehead and an erected brow, with thick, but very short, hair on it. He is pockbroaken much. In summe, he hath an acute but morale and serious look; and, if I can judge anything, I should think him a subtle cunning man, though I had never heard so much from the world. He is, they say, 44 years old, though, for my own part, I guesse him not above 40, if so much. He was then in a Chiauses Cap, but he hath severall, as I have seen him many times in them. At all audiences, from the G. Sr. himself to the Kaimacham of Stambol, we give presents, viz., vests of cloth, silk, cloth of gold, silver, velvet, etc., and in most places we receive vests from them, which are a peculiar sort of garment, onely to be then put on by us, and the maisters of state wear them upon peculiar occasions up and down the Court. They are made like our sophisters’[315] gown, without a cape. The stuff is of white silk, flower’d with great branches, sometimes half moones (and the like), yellow or tawny, all with very great weales[316]; and, according to the dignity of the persons, they are of cloth, of silver, or gold, or with more or less gold and silver wrought in the silk. There were give 16 amongst us. I sold mine for 6½ dollrs. My Ld.’s was worth 25 or 30; all the rest like mine, except the Treasurer’s, Secretary’s, and chief Dragoman’s, which were worth about 8 dollars a piece. I am confident this was a very antient custome, and is mean’d in scripture by changes of rayment, etc. We were with the vizier about ½ houre in all; my Ld. was with him in person not above ¼. After these little passes were over he rose up (the waiters making the same acclamations), and bowing a little to my Ld., past on, and we come out with my Ld. You must understand at all audiences (except with the G. Sr. himself, as you shall hear afterward) my Ld. is lead in and out by the Treasurer and Secretary: one on the right, the other on the left. The Cancellier to the Company, and one or two of the merchants, viz., Mr. Cook and Mr. Salter, were not vested, which you may imagine was taken amisse. My Ld. would have talked of keeping peace with Tripoli, Algiers, Tunis, etc., as likewise would have desired to treat by proxy or in private, but it was not then thought convenient.

_May 23rd._ The Resident (from the Emperor) of Germany visited my Lord.[317] There had been a little _pico_ taken. When Count Leshley[318] came into town Embassador from the Emperor some time since, our Embassador was then in town, and sent his secretary and court to meet him. My Ld. expected that this resident should have done as much to him. But he excused it, assuring my Ld. that he was that day with all his court call’d about businesse before the Vizier, and so all disgust was past over. His name is Giovanni Christophoro, and sometimes he wrote it Chinsberg; a most ingenious, courteous person; and as wise and cunning a statesman. I was most infinitely obliged for his civility, being often with him, and alwayes treated like a prince. He is an excellent schollar; mathematicks and history, and all manner of Antiquitys are his chief delight. I shall have occasion to say more of him anon; yet I will not omit one strange thing now. We had been informed here by a very worthy gentleman that at _Tocay_ in Hungary the vine (which make the best wine in the world, if you believe the Concil of Trent) very often bears grapes with the _Acini_, or stones, of massy gold. I, standing by my Ld., and by chance hearing him mention the wine of this place, desir’d my Ld. to mention this story to him, and I assure you he confirmed it to be very true, but in a more modest way then we had heard it recounted before: to wit, that the wine was very heavy, and sometimes here and there will certainly be found in the grapes a stone of pure gold, as he himself was presented with two or three such grapes; for it seemes they can know which are such grapes before they break them. Discoursing the point, he defended the possibility of it, asking how pearles sometimes are found in oysters, or little chalk stones in gouty men’s hands, etc. My Ld. return’d his visit two dayes after, and there remain’d a good correspondency betwixt them ever after.

_May 25th._ We went to see the cavalcade made in honour of the young prince _Mustapha_[319] before his circumcision. You must understand that when any great man’s son is to be circumcised, a day or two before he shall be cut he is caryed upon a horse up and down the town in triumph, richly clad, but accompanied with severall other poor youths or children, but finely drest, who count it an honour to be circumcised at such a time. There goe a great multitude with them, singing, dancing, shouting, and Turkish Musick playes all the way before him. This ceremony pay’d this day to the young prince was of this nature, but performed in a Royall manner; for all the Court of the G. Sigr. appeared, and we saw much of the Glory of the Empire. All the great officers of State, as likewise the Mustafaraca’s[320] (which are the _Lancie sperrate_, the G. Signor’s life gard, for I was well acquainted with one who was a Renegade) and other chief officers, had all _chiaus_ caps, as the Vizier himself, etc. They were most excellently horsed, though now Amblers and middle-sized horse are all in fashion. Most were in rich furre vests, the outside cloth (it is a dishonor for great men to go without a furre vest, though it be in the heat of summer); some the outside silk, satin, velvet, cloth of gold and silver. The horse-trappings extream rich; the buttock cloth embroyder’d with gold, silver, pearles, etc., at the meanest wrought with silk; the saddles in like manner; the stirrups, many of silver, some guilded; the bridles plated with gold, or silver and bras; and many set with good stones and pearl, especially the peak on the forehead, and at each ear, etc., this in general.

First come by severall companyes of Janizaryes, with their Cherbigées or Colonells on foot. Then past the Vizier’s pages in a company distinct and distant by themselves; all very proper, stout men, in crimson velvet floured _Delaman’s_[321] (they are exactly like our cassocks), with very large silver gilt embost girdles. Then follow’d severall companyes of more Janizaryes, with the Chiaus of the Janizaryes on horseback in the reer, who had a girdle all embroyder’d at least 1½ foot wide. After them, as many more Janizaryes, with their Cherbigées on horse back. Then as many more Janizaryes, with the Janizary Aga (a devilish severe fellow, both in shew and in nature and practice) in the reer of them on horseback. Then followed another company of the Janizaryes, with the _Chiá_, (or you may call him) Lieutenant to the Agà, who is their head. One thing is remarkable, that whereas our swordmen never goe in companys thus but armed, as if they were ready to meet an enemy, here the devil of sword, gun, or weapon, should you see. Some companyes of the Janizaryes had each man a little switch or stick in his hand, the rest nothing in the world about them; and in the whole cavalcade not any armes in the world were ever seen, except a cimeter and pole axe, which every horseman, let him be who he will (as I myself have had many times), wear, the first fixt to his saddle under his left thigh, the latter to the pummel over his right knee; and yet for all this security there is no mutinying, no _embroglys_ or tumults, but the best government in the world. Next come severall companyes of Armorers (Jebejées) in green caps, edged with gold or silver, as their purses would beare; (chesmejées) victuallers with red caps like Janizaryes, onely the flap stands higher above the head piece. Then came severall Cadyes[322] and Cadeleschiérs (men of the Law), with their _Naïps_ or Secretaryes, or rather Scriveners. They were all in a sort of sophisters (or lawyer’s) gown, without a cape, short sleeves, and of severall colours and stuffs, richer or baser according to their ability, silk, satin, etc., all fur’d; these are Cadyes, captains, or _divan_ habits.

Next followed the Vizier’s Guards in green vests and caps, which differ’d much from what Consul Ricaut made them; their vest was closed together with monstrous great buttons and tassels; they were at least 300 lusty stout fellowes, all _Albaneses_. After them came more of his pages clad like the first. Then follow’d he himself, the _Mufti_ and _Mosaïf_, or great favorite; the Mufti in the midst, in a white cloth vest and ermine furre; on his right hand the Vizier in a white satin sable furr’d vest; on his left hand the _Mosaïf_ (or _Coologlan_), the favourite, in a green sattin sable vest. Then were caryed by 40 _Naculs_, 20 on a side, which are divices made upon a large pole in forme of a pyramid or cone (rather) of wire, painted paper, beggars batten (such as we trim hobbyhorses[323] withall), and flowrs and fruit of wax work, and painted paper, etc. At every wedding and circumcision such toys as these are carryed before the partyes concerned; but these were more large and costly. Then were carryed by two more _naculs_ of incredible bignesse; it was the most gaudy magnificent peice of (Hobbyhorsism) folly that ever I saw. It was continued in quite another kind of frolick upon a large mast of a ship; it was 27 yards long, and the lower part was 5 or 6 yards diameter; the ornaments of it were much like this here described, onely between every sphere were square cubes furnisht out with the same fancyes, especially wax work. Now you will say: How could this colossus be moved? At the bottom were eight or ten large bars of wood fastend parallell (as the strings or bars of a sedane) and betweene these were harnest above 100 slaves; and before it (upon these bars) stood (or road) a master of a galley, who menaged the Slaves, they resting and reering it up and down at the noyse of his whistle. Now, for fear it should overset and topple down, there were four long pikes of wood fasten’d about half way up, and as many ropes came from the top, by which other slaves (taking hold of the lower end) guided the top and kept it alwayes right up. To let these walking timber-trees pass by the streets of the city many houses were untiled, and some in part pul’d down. I went to view them whilst they were making. They broke down a great stone wall of the publick _Cháne_ in which they were made to let them out. The story of the walls of Troy and their Hobby-horse is to it as Tom thumb[324] to Bevis of Southampton.[325] I must here tell you a story. The Vizier sent an expresse to the Bailo of Venice, commanding him to send for all the actors of their operas to come with their scœnes, musick, etc., to grace the G. Signor’s solemnityes. The Bailo excused himself, urging it was impossible (besides of the inconveniences, etc.) to bring all that lumber and trumpery by land and Sea in due time. The Chiaus (the messenger) storm’d and swore: what was impossible for the G. Signor to do? _Walláh_ (by G.), my maister, if he will, can fetch your whole city hither just as it stands there; streets, houses, churches, and all. The Bailo, with much adoe, got of; but, ifaith, when I saw this moving wooden steeple so easily menaged, I began to think the _Chiaus_ had some reason in him. The little _naculs_ were afterwards set before the G. Signor’s tents: the two great ones before the Queen-mother’s Kiosk (or sommer-house or Balcony), all in the place of sports, of which more by and by. After these _Naculs_ were past, came young prince Mustapha, surrounded on every side before and behind, with a brave troop of _Cherbigee_ (Collonels), all on foot, in their caps and feathers. The prince himself was mounted upon a lovely beast, which was, in a manner, nothing but jewels, pearls, gold, and silver from head to tayle, and led by two mighty, lusty Cherbigées richly clad, on each side one; two more in like manner went fanning him all the way and shadowing him (for it was about ten o’clock, and a most excessive hot day). They have large fans made here on purpose for great personages of bustards’ feathers, contrived from 1½ to 2 or 3 foot wide. Whether it was by chance or on purpose, I know not, but he made a stand just before us, where I view’d him wel (as I have done oftentimes since), being within 3 yards of him at most, now I was about 5 yards distance. He is in generall an ugly, il-favour’d (and I guesse very ill-natured) chit; he hath a perfect Russe face (as I have seen enough to be some competent judge) as may be; he hath a beetle brow, a short, flat, saddled nose, with a little cop[326] at the end; a roundish flat face, low forehead; eyes and eyebrowes fair, the latter inclining to a sandy colour; his eares very large, as much as can be seen; his hands (as all Turkes are brutish and carelesse of them) tan’d and swarthy. His mother is a Russe, and his father of a Russe extraction. He had a plain Turbant on, like a common Turk, and a black single feather on the left side, at the bottom of which was a diamond of about 40 (or, as they say, 43) _carats_, sent home from the K. of Persia of old to a young prince of this Empire. He had likewise two others, very large, on each side his vest, to clasp it before, and instead of buttons were large pearls set al down the edge. His Delamon under his vest was cover’d all before (instead of buttons and loops) with broaches of rubyes and Emeralds; his vest was a white cloth of silver sables; his delamon purple cloth of gold. He road to his father’s tent; there he was received with a kisse, and sat down by him. After the young p. and his attendance follow’d his Musick, Ten Pipers, 6 Drumes, 4 trumpets, 2 kettle-drumes, and 4 tamburs (or tympanums), like sives cover’d with parchment at bottome; all these were mounted on camels. The streets were lined with women on one side and men on the other. The women of quality came coached, and the chief had stands, or shops, or chambers, on purpose provided. All were vailed, yet I took notice of many delicate persons that would now and then be peeping, and some slipt down their vail very farre, which is accounted (if observ’d by the rest) a great peice of impudence. The streets were continually kept swept by broom men that waited on purpose; and they were every foot and anon between company and company refresht with water, which _Sackals_ (budget men[327]) brought and sprinkled on purpose. Amongst so many people it was most wonderfull to see order and strange silence, not the least rudenesse in boyes or men; yet, to keep the crowd of people of and in good order, there are men on purpose in all these public meetings appointed, cal’d _Tooloonjés_, from skins of sheep (cal’d Tooloons) blown up full of wind, and all dawb with oil and tar, and in leather jackets besmeared in like manner. The Turkes (who are very spruce and chary of their fine vests) run from these people as from the Divel, who upon occasion will strike them with their _tooloones_, which will break no bones, but onely daub them; they have leather caps with bells all down the side. There were about 200 of these Raga-muffins, and their two Bashas, or capes (heads), on horse back commanding them. In the furniture and ornaments of men and horse that day Diamonds, rubyes, emeralds, gold, silver, embroyder’d work, etc., were common things. The slaves employ’d in the _Naculs_ before said had all their liberty. This day was the 11th of their moon _Rebiul Evíl_[328] (or the first Evil), the next being _Rebiul acker_. One thing I will here conclude this paragraph withall. You can imagine what strange prodigious civility all Franks (as they call us) found everywhere at these festivals. I have been twenty times myself caryed in to see the sights, when all Turkes have been huncht[329] away. They took the greatest pride that we should see and (at least seem to) admire everything. I have been many times very, very near the G. Signor himself (sometimes ½ an hour together, as long as I pleased), with my hat and in my hair, both which they hate as the Divel; and have return’d quite through the City (once or twice al alone) in the midst of the great multitude of Turkes, and yet I assure you I never met the least affront in the world, but rather extraordinary kindnesse, as shall be hinted particularly afterwards; and amongst these vast multitudes all are as husht and orderly as we are at a sermon. I could not possibly believe it till I found it alwayes so, and from me you may believe this wonder.

_May 27th_, and the 13th of their Moon, is Mahomet’s birth day, which they solemnly kept, for they have severall holy dayes as well as we, besides _Biráms_, etc. This day the G. Signor went to Sultan Selim’s Mosch (which is the chief Mosch here); we went to see him go by. There was no great state or train; most of the great men came scattering. The Vizier came riding by himself, with about 20 or 30 of his pages before him in crimson velvet (as before is described), on foot before him, and about 8 persons on horseback about him; to wit, his _Kihiá_ (or deputy or steward properly), his _Agá_, or chief Governor of his household, etc. The Vizier[330] was very plain, his vest green cloth, with ermin’s furre, and, a distance being kept between his pages before and his attendants behind, he rode alone in the middle. About an hour after (it was near 11 o’clock) came riding in front about 10 _Bostanjés_ to se the street clear’d and water’d, as before is said; they speedily rode back again and joyn’d with their company, who made up about 50 in all. After them follow’d the G. Signor’s pages on each side the way, in cloth of gold, dark sky-colour’d _delamons_, with broad embroyder’d girdles, and every one a _jint_ (or small javelin) in his hand of black ebony inlaid with mother of pearl; all were on foot in two files, about 60 in all. Immediately followed the G. Signor himself, very plain, in an ordinary _sarick_, or _shash_ (_his Tiara_), and purple _cáook_ (his scul-cap, about which his shash is wound). His vest was very plain likewise, onely two good large stones were set in brocades to clasp it above before; the two tips at the bottom before were born up by two footmen, and his garments underneath were very ordinary as might be. I have seen him many, many times (as is said before); but take this little description of him once for all. He is a very swarthy man, his face shining, and pretty full eye, black and sparkling; his nose something long, and beetled[331] at the end, a full, roundish high forehead, a severe brow, his beard black, very thin, and not very long. The Vizier’s beard is much thicker, but they say he does not wear it longer than the G. Signor’s; his hand big, but very rude, _alla Turchesa_; the upper part of his face something resemble Mahomet the 1st in _Knowles_.[332] He hath a great deal of Majesty in his countenance, and terror, too, when he please to put it on. He hath been very lean and sickly (3 or 4 yeares since), but now he is exceedingly plump and hearty. I have been certainly informed by _Grerách basha_ (a Renegado, and his cheif Chirurgion, who circumcised the young prince, as by and by you shall hear more), with whome I was well acquainted, that the onely Physick (in a manner) which he used was Issues (whereof he hath had 8, nay 10, at a time upon him) (they are much used by all people here, especially in the Plague) and exercise, especially hunting,[333] which he followes still most extravagantly, many times going out two or three houres before day, and it may be not returning till as late at night; sometimes (as this last winter) summoning in all the _Villánes_ in 20 mile compasse to drive a whole wood or forest before them. They tell a good story of him (but I have also heard it of one of his ancestors), that many of the poor _Villánes_ dying once for hunger and cold, the _Bostanjé Basha_, or some other officer, caused 8 or 10 of their bodyes to be laid in the way where the G. Signor was to passe. The G. S. seeing them, askt what they were; the officer told him Poor Villánes starved and perisht in his service, adding what pitty it was, etc. The G. S. immediately swore they were all rotten, and he would hang him for providing noe sound men, so his pitty had like to have cost him his head. Pardon this digression: now we return to the story.

Just after the G. Signor followed the young P. Mustapha, very plain likewise, with two servants on horseback attending, on each side one; after followed several Bashaes and other great men, all in plain clothes. There was a Sermon there, and prayers (as is usual); and after 2½ houres all returned. The young prince with his father went to the Seraglio, and about Kindí (the 9th houre in the Turkish account of the day), he was circumcised by the Chirurgion above said (whose new Turkish name is _Onufé_), who had for his paines 10,000 zechines (about 6,200 lb. sterling), as he boasted to me; but I am confident it was much lesse. It was presented him from the Q. mother in a large silver bason. He was an Italian, ignorant enough, but bold and ingenious. As at other circumcisions (as is before hinted), many accompany the great man’s son, and take it as an honour, so here were severall 1,000es circumcised at this feast; an account see afterwards amongst the generall notions. I now will begin with the festivalls in honour of the circumcision, which began May 15th, they counting it the first day of the moon (from the _Phases_), whereas to us the day before was our new moon, which they reckoned the 29th, but in reality was the 28th, on which night the rising in a little thin cloud appear’d bigger then ordinary, and gave them the greatest pleasure and occasion of rejoicing that could be.