Chapter VIII: Part II: Dr. Covel’s Diary (2)

_Nov. 10._ _Cape St. John_ (or the west end of Candia) lay in sight of us S.E., and the Admiral came about ten o’clock on board us to take his leave. After two houres stay he went of, and we gave him seven guns, the three last with shot, as a token of more respect. His Ship answer’d again with great civility. _Capt. Partridge_, with the _Turkey Merchant_ (whether he had not yet fully digested his discontent about our going into _Tunis_, or whether it was the natural rugged temper of the man, I know not), sailed away before the Admiral, for _Scanderoon_, without taking any civil leave, or firing one gun. We remained now but seven in company: six Turkey Merchant Men and Capt. _Wild_ in _the Assurance_, our Convoy and Admiral. After _Capt. Robinson_ and _Capt. Partridge_ were gon, _Capt. Wild_ came to dine with us, and as we were set newes was brought in by one of our _powder monkey’s_ from the Top Mast head that there were five great ships _a Head_, coming _stem for stem_ towards us. We all concluded that they were some of the Algerines before mention’d, therefore Capt. Wild immediately returned to his Ship, and gave the signal to the whole fleet to make ready to engage them. At the _top mast_ head, with a glasse, I made seven of them, there being two small vessells besides the first five. It was pleasure to se the great alacrity and readinesse, I may say the eagernesse, of our Seamen in preparing for the dispute. All their Hamocks were down in a trice; their chests and lumber turn’d out into the boates, or stived[214] by the _main chains_ or elsewhere, out of the way. We had a clear ship in a very little while, and all our men posted in their several quarters, and rounds of powder and ball provided by every gun. Our Captain told me, if I pleased I might go down into the _hold_, and be safe there with the Chirurgeon. I told him if he would give me leave I would rather stand by him all the while, for I should as heartily and (he need not doubt) as earnestly pray for our good successe there as any where else. He thankt me, and told me it would not a little encourage his men to se me above board. With that all our Passengers took heart and came and stood with me upon _the quarter deck_, where were armes and ammunition provided for us all. We were to be the second Ship in the line, and after we had all made a little back till we were all ready, we bore up bravely to them. But when we came at them they proved five French men of warre, with one _Satée_[215] and another small vessell with a _meson_[216] and _stay sail_,[217] which I suppose were as _Tenders_.[218] They belong’d to the same Squadron with those which we saw by _Tunis_ under _Monsr. Martell_. One of their Lieutenants went on board our Admirall, and told him that they came from _Toulon_, and had been looking out for _Tripoleses_ and _Tuneses_, who it seems had been there abouts six or seven days before. Being asked, he said the _Algerines_ were about _Rhodes_ and _Cyprus_. And thus our _scare fight_ past over, without any blowes. My Curiosity was fully gratyfied with this Prelude of a battle, for I believe I could give a shrewd guesse at all the rest, and that I then thought enough. Though indeed I did not see the least sign of fear or want of courage in any one, yet I suppose all of us were well satisfyed and pleased to sleep that night in a whole skin.

For thre or four dayes the wind was full in our eye; we tacked and tumbled backwards and forwards between _Cerigo_ and the W. end of _Candia_; then we got between _C. Matapan_ and _Cervi_; and having been thus beaten up and down, and made no progresse, and little hopes being left of a fair wind, by consent we came all to Anchor on the S.W. side of _Cervi_,[219] in nineteen fathom water, about five o’clock, Nov. 14, afternoon. That evening I went with the Captain in his pinnace sounding the several depths in the bay, and then went on board our Admiral, where all the Captaines resolved to go on shore next morning for what provisions we could find, especially of wood (whereof there is plenty), and fresh water if we could find any. Next morning our Capt. and I and two of our Gentlemen passengers went on shore in the _yale_[220] betimes, before any of the other Commanders appear’d. We landed at a spot where it was plain ground and an open place, and therefore free from _Ambuscades_. Immediately came down an old Greek from the top of the mountain in a poor patch’t habit, in a thick coarse jacket, a woollen shirt, with no stockings nor shoes, but onely some pieces of a raw hide of an oxe or bull wer laced[221] on to the soales of his feet with the hair side inwards, which I suppose never go of till time and rottennesse separate them. With these his feet are so plyable that he can easily go up or down a rock which our shoes will not suffer us to do, at least with that dexterity. Old Hesiod was born not very far from hence, and I thought we had had one of his old acquaintance risen from the dead and come to us, his _coat_ and _socks_ and _shirt_ being exactly in his Boetian fashion. He had a skul cap on, border’d with a Lambskin, which he pull’d off, and came boldly to us. We had a native Greek in our boates crew, and he was our Interpreter, for I spoke as good school Greek to him as I could in our pronunciation, but my language seem’d as perfect gibberish to him as his did to me. We askt for Flesh: Sheep, bullocks, goates, and the like. He told us they were all driven of the Island the day before, for they took us for _Africans_ and Enemyes, seing us lying so long upon their coast. We askt for water. He told us there was none but what was preserved from the rain in hollow basins in the Rocks, which he directed us to; and I afterwards tasted of it, and found it good. There are no people who continually live there, but they come from the continent to till the ground, which lyes on the edges of the mountain round by the Sea, and had good corn then growing on it; they likewise bring sheep and other cattel sometimes from the main land to feed here. We asked him if he could procure any cattel or other necessaryes to be brought over for our money. He said he would go and informe his friends, and see what he could do; he doubted not but we might have something; in the meantime he shew us where we might try for water. He answer’d all along with such a show of innocent simplicity as we were much pleased with him; and I gave him a Tunbridge knife which I had in my pocket, and everyone likewise gave him something, which he received with a wonderfull submissive reverence, and promising us a very grateful returne of our kindnesse, away he went, running directly up the mountain. By this time all the other Commanders (except Capt. Wild) and a great many of their men were come on shore. Most of them brought fire Armes with them, and in all we might then make about a hundred Firelocks. All the Captaines strictly commanded their men not to stir far from the shore; and our Captain, to make us more wary, told us that in the year (as I remember) 1664 our general ships passing by here for Turkey came to an Anchor, and many went on shore on the mainland there, whereof thre worthy merchants and six or seven others were snapt by the natives, who lay in wait for them, and it cost them 1,600 dollars for their redemption. The Turkes call that part of _Peloponnesus_ (as well as all Thrace) _Romania_; and from that word (by an _Aphaeresis_) these wicked people are called _Maniotes_ (as the inhabitants of _Smyrna_, _Scio_, _Cyprus_, _Candia_, are called _Smyrniotes_, _Sciotes_, _Cypriotes_, _Candiotes_, and the like elsewhere). These who live upon the Rocks and mountaines by the Sea are a sort of lawlesse people, and the Turkes themselves cannot govern them or reduce them into any good order. These miscreant wretches lye constantly watching upon the Rocks and Mountaines, not so much to secure themselves from the injuryes of Pirates as themselves to Thieve and rob whome they can catch, and all the Christian Passengers which they can seise on the shore they sell to the Turkes to serve in their Galleys or otherwise as slaves; and I have been assured that if they can conveniently _spirit_ away Turkes themselves they will serve even them in like manner, and sell them for slaves to any Christian who will be their chapman.[222] There was a fawning cunning _varlet_ came to those Gentlemen then, and pretended to procure them all manner of provisions which they could desire, but betray’d them then, as this vile wretch did us now. I could not but call to mind old _Sinon_ in Virgil,[223] for our _Cheat_ seem’d to pretend to the very same motto: _Poor, but very honest_. Believe me, Greeks are Greeks still; for falsenesse and treachery they still deserve _Iphigenia’s_ character of them in Euripides,[224] _Trust them and hang them_, or rather hang them first for sureness. We kept in little bodys near the shore, where there were small thickits of Juniper and mirtles with their berrys then ripe, and we had excellent sport in killing _Fieldfares_ and _Thrushes_, and such other birds, which were there at feed in great abundance. Some went towards the Sandhills, where was store of game in little plashes made by the sea-water, which was cast in there by winds and stormes. After we had sported our selves a while with shooting in these thickets and Plashes,[225] two or thre of our Commanders invited me to a Collation, and as we were set in the shade under some pieces of rocks, we saw several of our men (notwithstanding all the Captaine’s commands, and our Captaine’s History) struggling up the Mountain. One was habited something like our Captain, and, at a distance, appear’d indeed to be him; whereupon some Gentlemen coming by us would by all meanes have tempted my Curiosity to have follow’d them, but our Captaine’s lecture at our coming on shore had stir’d up such wary apprehensions and jealous reflections in my mind, as I could not possibly be persuaded that it was he; and the Captaines there with me were in a very great rage to see such inconsiderate people running into that danger. No sooner had these gentlemen left us but we hear’d thre or four guns go of upon the Mountain; and, looking up, we saw some of the Straglers posting down in wonderful haste; and presently appear’d several Men brandishing their _cutlasses_ or _Cimitars_, and making them glitter against the Sun. We immediately rose, and went to the body of our Company to hear what was the matter. It happen’d that five or six gentlemen had got some seamen with them, and away they had ventur’d up the mountain. The Gentlemen (I know not whether it was by good Fortune or Policy) were hindermost, and just as their Vanguard was got on the brow of the other side the Mountain, up rose about a dozen Rogues, who had layn sculking there in the thickets, and ran upon them. They being scatter’d abroad, and not near one another by fourty or fifty yards or more, at this surprise fired upon the Rogues without doing any execution (perhaps most of them were charg’d only with small shot). So soon as their fire was over, the Rogues came more boldly on, though armed onely with half Pikes and _Cutlasses_. Our Seamen, who had not in the least considered to make good their retreat, threw down their Armes, and betook themselves to their heels. But our gentlemen had the start of them, and so, God be thanked, these all escaped, though very narrowly, all coming down without their Armes, most without their Hats, some with but a piece of a Shoe, their feet and leggs being battered and torne, and their bodyes bruised with rushing through the Shrubs and jumping down prœcipices, for they came right forward, thinking the shortest way was best. Four of the poor Seamen were taken—two of the _Mary and Martha’s_ men, one of the _Levant Merchant_, and a fourth of the _Tho. and Francis_, whome they first had slightly wounded in the face, then they seised him and tyed his hands behind him, and left him with thre Rogues to guard him. These drove him before them, and because he often linger’d and offer’d to stop, they pricked him forward in the back, and wounded him in several places with their half pikes. The poor man was a very stout fellow and a good wrastler, and feeling the thing which bound his hands something loose, slipt his right hand out, and, with great courage and presence of mind, turn’d upon the Rogues, who were uselesse, and thought they had him safe. With this advantage, he ran the first quite over, and struck up the heels of the second; the third (who was a little behind the other) made a blow at him with his _Cimitar_, which he saved from his head with his lefte arme, and lay’d hold of the weapon with his right hand. The Rogue, drawing it a little back, cut the poor fellow’s hand badly. Yet this saved him from a second stroke, for he being something under the Rogue, he struck him up _hand and foot_, and before the other two could come at him, away he came. The great concerne which he had for his dear life and dearer liberty added something more then natural vigour to his leggs, and as much lightnesse to his heels. At last he got to us, and told us all that had past. There were, in another place, two of our seamen (one the native Greek) who made a very soldjere-like retreat. As they straggled from us, they kept together, and, out of a thicket, up start five or six _Maniotes_, and made towards them. They, standing together, presented their Muskets (resolving not to fire but to good purpose, and therefore not till they were very near). Down the Rogues dropt again. The Seamen retreated; they again follow’d. The Seamen presented again, and they again squatted down. Our Greek at last spoke to them, and told them to _keep of_ in their own language; at which they stopt, and so these two retired leasurely and safely to us. After some debate what we ought to do, we all in a body were marching up the mountain to rescue our men; but _Captain Wild_, being all this while on board, and observing all which had happened, thought we were not strong enough; and, therefore, firing a great shot over us, call’d us back; and sometime after came all his soldiers on shore well armed; and then Mr. Day (his Lieutenant), a brave stout man, marshall’d us all, and put us in order: and away he led us up the mountain. But when we arrived, we saw we were come too late; for all the Rogues had crost the water in their bootes, and were just landing on the Main, and with our glasses we could discover our poor Captives amongst them, bound. The Lieutenant was earnest for bringing our boates about and going to them, for they appear’d in all much short of a hundred men. Our Captaines, though all brave men, were utterly against that, for being, by their Charter-party, bound to ply their Voyage, they could not tell how they could answer such an adventure, for we knew not what event our landing on the main land in a Hostile manner might produce, so some of them came back presently; but the Lieutenant and the rest rambled all over the Island, where they saw not one man left, nor found so much as one house. Here and there were Coves, in which they found some tatter’d cloths, and a few poor utensils; as likewise a sack of meal, and good store of onions and such-like very mean booty. I hardly believe that this _Maniotes_ do ever bring any cattle hither (though our honest _Sinon_ told us they did), or, at least, they feed them on the other side the Mountain, and not in view, for fear of _African_ or other Pirates, who would sweep them of. They onely come here to till the ground and reape the corne, and now and then to make such _Ambuscades_ as these; and very slender provisions will serve them upon these occasions. Some of our men, as they march’t, found some Hats, swords, pistols, and such like (it seems uselesse) baggage, which our first _Myrmidons_ had discreetly scattered in their retreat. At last all came down, and we went on board, much lamenting our sad misfortunes, and all concluded that if we had proceeded on at our first march, and not staid for Captain _Wild’s_ souldiers, we had certainly rescued our men, and perhaps sufficiently chastised those Sons of Belial. After some little conference with all the Captaines, we joyntly agreed to contribute to their ransome, and everyone setting down their good will, we had that night subscribed about 1,500 dollars, the poorest seaman giving one. Next morning the Admiral sent out his boat, and we went in ours with white flags of Truce round the Island, but not one man appeared to treat with us, or to take the least notice of us. Wherefore the money was collected and deposited in the Consul’s hands at _Smyrna_, and, about two yeares after, the poor slaves were found in the galleys and redeemed, though they proved most ungrateful wretches, for I heard that when they got into England they offered to sue their Captains for their wages, which they pretended was due to them for all that time.

CAP. 7.—OUR PASSAGE TO SMYRNA.

_Nov. 17._ At noon we weigh’d Anchor, and with the wind at S.S.E. and S.E. we turn’d out between _Cerigo_ and _C. St. Angelo_. Next day being entered the _Arches_,[226] we staid for the _Levant Merchant_, and dined there.

_Nov. 19, Saturday._ We had very much rain all the day, and all the following night. The wind to E. to S.E., we got nothing of our way, but with much ado we kept _our own_. This ill weather continued for the most part till Nov. 21 about noon. That Evening we saw 4 sail in _Argentiera_[227] bay, one with a flag at the _Topmast head_. We could not tell who they were; if friends, we had no reason to fear them; if foes, they certainly feared us. We past between _Milo_ and _Antimilo_; between _Serfon_ and _Sifanto_[228]; between _Tino_ and _Micono_; between _Scio_ and _Ipsera_.[229] And Nov. 23, in the morning, we got past _C. Calaberro_ (or, as our seamen call it, _C. Tobbernose_), from the true Turkish word _Caraburnes_[230] (_black nose_ or black _snout_), _where mill stones were cut out_, so call’d, I suppose, from the black rock out of which they were taken. And if there be yet such _a black_ quarry there, I should conclude that the Turkes also nam’d it _black Nose_ from thence. We went on with a fair gale at W.N.W., but the Admiral and _the Speedwell_ running more in to the shore, was becalm’d and left _a stern_. At 2 afternoon we came up to _the Castle_, where lay without the port of _Smyrna_ two _Holland men of war_. We saluted the Admiral with thre guns, and he return’d us thre. Our English Merchants came on board us, and at five o’clock we came to Anchor at _Smyrna_, and saluted the Port with seven guns. I went on shore, and lay at Mr. James Adderley and Mr. Nath. Thurston and Mr. Jon. Prideaux their house, where I was most courteously and nobly entertained. The _Assurance_ staid without the Castle, and the _Speedwell_ came not in till the next day. None of our men of war must go into any of the Turkish Ports so far as to be commanded by any of their Castles. It seems that the Turks formerly have been very insolent, and have laid an _Imbargo_ or Arest upon some of our men of war which were in Port, and, as I have been told, have made use of them in the last _Candia_ Warre; to prevent which inconvenience for the future, our men of war alwayes lye without the Castles. And several French men of war in my time came up to Constantinople, and lay at Anchor there sometime, and great embroil was like to have happened thereupon about a Knight of Malta who escaped, of which more elsewhere.

CAPT. 8.—WHAT HAPPENED WHILST OUR SHIPS STAID AT SMYRNA, AND OUR JOURNEY TO EPHESUS.

Rambling about the Town, one of our passengers, who had lived at Smyrna before, caryed me to a rich Turkes house, who was one of his old acquaintance. I think they call’d him _Eusine Chabbey_, a very courteous man, and friendly to all our Nation. They told me that he once invited them all at the _cutting_ or circumcision of one of his sons, and treated them very generously. We found him at Supper, and he very earnestly prest us to sit down, which we did, _Taylor like_, crosse leg’d, for we saw neither chair nor stool, nor anything else but the floor cover’d with carpets. We tasted of his cheer, which was good, plain, wholesome food. All things being so quite different from our own way of living did very much surprise me with wonder and delight. But of Turkish entertainments and other customes I shall give a large account more conveniently elsewhere.

_Novemb. 26._ Our Consul, the worthy Sir Paul Ricaut,[231] treated us at his country house, which was six or seven miles out of Town, in a village called _Sedjagui_; I was told the right Turkish name is _Seghiahkioi_, as much as _Strangeham_. It seems the word _Kioi_ in Turkish signifies a _Hamlet_ or Village, and therefore it is made the termination of country villages very frequently, as our _ham_ is in English names, and it is pronounced something near the work _qui_, so in _Bailgradqui_, _Hosqui_, _Ortaqui_, and infinite more everywhere. Several of our nation have likewise houses of retirement there, as also the Dutch Consul, _Jaques von Dam_, and others of that nation then had. It is a very pleasant and convenient place for divertisement, especially in summer. I took much notice of an old _Coffe_ man there, who was an _Afionjè_ (or Ophiunjè), _a great eater of Opium_. He seem’d much above 60 yeares old, and told us that in a morning till he had taken a little dose, as much as a half nut or more, he had no strength to get up, or to raise or turne himself in his bed; but after it, he had vigour, briskness enough to do anything. He was very lean, the flesh, or rather the skin of his cheeks, hanging like Spanish leather; and he had very oft (almost every minute) a strange kind of _spasme_ in the muscles of his breast, or a jerking motion like those who have a strong Hickock.

_Nov. 30._ Some of this generous Factory designing to accompany several gentlemen, their friends (which now came from England), to Ephesus, were pleased to admit me into their _caravan_, and my very kind friends where I lodged accoutred me and furnisht me out with their own Janisary and everything necessary for that Journey. We were, in all, about two or three and twenty, all very well provided with horses and armes. That night we lay at a country town, call’d by our Europeans _Jamovasy_, but I am told its true Turkish name was _Jaman bakgia_, or _bachi_, that is, _terrible garden_; it is about four miles beyond _Sedjaqui_. It is a pretty large town with several _Moscheas_ in it, which are all shaded with tall Cypruses and some pines, whose verdure at some distance seems very stately and very pleasant. From thence we went through a plain for six or eight miles somewhat wet or moorish (which, I suppose, might happen from the rains falling on either side from the mountains, and staying there, where it was but narrow). It was spread with _Agnus castus_ in great plenty, which I have often observed to love such a moist soil; there was nothing then on the boughs but their seed, which was very good, and of a stronger smell then that with us. Next we came to firme sandy ground, fill’d with Oakes (without any underwood), like some of our parks. They were all short, snoggy trees, much loaded with boughs; I saw not one good piece of Timber amongst them. Then we ascended a rocky mountain, not continued smooth at top, but broken into many and deep dales, for the most part cover’d with several sorts of middle-sized trees, with shrubs amongst them; the way both going up and going down was _filled with loose stones, being very difficult_, yet our horses had been used to such places, and caryed us very safely on. This road is very dangerous by reason of Thieves, who lurk in the thickets and dens that are upon it. Many people lay buryed here and there who had been murdered and slain, and many bones of men lay scattered above ground. We often saw several people at a distance peeping at us, and one came and joyn’d himself with us for a mile or two, and then stole away from us; we thought it was for no good end, but we were too numerous and strong for them to venture on us. This mountain is now called _Aliman_, and all our former Travaylers take it for the Antient _Mimas_, and my good friend Dr. Pickering[232] would needs have the very word _Aliman_ jumbled from _Almiman_.

[Dr. Covel here gives a long and technical account of all he saw at Ephesus—of little value now, since the light of recent excavations.]

* * * * *

CAPT. 10.—OUR DEPARTURE FROM SMYRNA.

At last, _Dec. 22, Thursday_, about eleven in the morning, we weigh’d Anchor with a fair gale at S.E.

_Saturday, Dec. 24._ In the morning I had a little Aguish distemper: I fancy’d that I had gotten cold with overheating myself in wading and labouring upon the sand-bank the last day we were there a shooting. The wind blew very hard most part of the day at N.N.E., and we had a very boysterous Sea. We split our Fore sail, and it almost blew away: we had stood in close under _Lesbos_ all night, and that day, about four o’clock in the afternoon, we came to Anchor before _Tenedos_, in ten fathome water. Soon after, we sent our purser a shoar to wait on the _Aga_, who, by him, invited us to come and take what Provisions we wanted. He sent us some fish; amongst the rest _Sea Breme_ (as our Capt. call’d them), with a large, very sharp prickly fin all along the back, and some fish which feel’d rough, like perches, with two prickly fins on their back, and on either side they had just eleven streaks or laces fore and aft (to use the seaman’s phrase), parallel to one another from the back downwards, of a bright _gold colour_.

The _Agá_ beg’d some glasse bottles of our Capt., which were sent to him next day by our Purser, who went a shore and bought all the provisions which we wanted, and with them good store of white Muscadine, a rich, sweet, heavy wine. I was so ill as I durst not venture out, but shall hereafter give you an account of what I observed when I came there a second time.

_Dec. 27, Tuesday._ About five in the morning we weighed Anchor, and by eleven o’clock following we were at the mouth of the _Hellespont._

A little beyond the innermost castles of old _Sistos_ and _Abydos_, on the Southern Shore, lyes a little sand bank, which reaches on round about a sharp point of land directly opposite to _Magla_ (antiently _Madgla_). Our second Mate, being on the watch, kept the south side of the Stream (which continually set out here to the West), for the advantage of the Eddy and the easier passage on that west side of the point; but, bearing in too near the South Shore, about two o’clock, ran our ship on ground. We had but one easy gale, just enough to stem the current, and the sand and mud at the bottome were soft, so we were in no great danger, and, carrying out an Anchor a sterne (as is usuall in such cases) with the Winlace, we soon wrought the ship of again, and so plying our voyage, by five o’clock we safely doubled the point, and got sea room enough.

_Dec. 28, Wednesday._ About ten in the morning we came to an Anchor before _Galliopoli_ (the Greeks still call it by the old name _Callipolis_) in 20 fathom water. We stay’d not above two houres, and then weigh’d again for _Constantinople_, where, on Saturday, Dec. 31, at thre in the afternoon, we came to Anchor at the custome house on _Galata_ side, having saluted the Seraglio as we past by with 11 guns.

I went immediately up to my Ld. Ambassador, _Sr. Dan. Harvey_, and deliver’d those letters of consequence which I thought not fit to venture with others by the common _messo_ from Smyrna; and, the next day being New Yeares Day, I entred upon my employment.

When I went to get my books and other things on shore, the Customes ript open my Trunkes and boxes, and searched and rifled every thing. However, at last I mist nothing but _Niceron’s Thaumaturgus opticus_, which I shrewdly suspect was filch’t from me by one who was indeed call’d a Christian, but had not, it seems, the honesty of a common Turk.

[In Dr. Covel’s MS. there here follows a long and detailed account of Constantinople, which differs little from those given by other travellers of the period, and has therefore been omitted.]

EXTRACTS FROM THE GENERAL DIARY EXTENDING OVER THE WHOLE OF DR. COVEL’S RESIDENCE IN TURKEY.

_Aug. 15th, 1671._ ’Tis observ’d by the Greeks as the feast of Assumpt. B.V.M. with great solemnity. They all repair to Church, Men and Women apart. Masse is mumbled over. The priest does not consecrate a wafer or a whole loaf, but cuts a long square cut about ¾ of an inch broad; with his nail he makes a crosse on it. After the prayer of consecration he elevates it, and they adore; then there is the discourse from the Patriarch. After masse the Priest comes out with holy Water in a pot, a crosse, and an aspergillum of hyssop, or lime, or rosemary, or what he can get green (that at the holy fountain was Basil), and Holy bread on a dish. By use in the Greek Church none are to eat or drink till they cut it. Everyone comes up towards that place in order: first the Men, then Women. He gives them a piece of bread, ζυμὸς, leaven’d (it is as that for the Eucharist), and he holds the Cross for the kisses; he washes them on the face; they lay down their aspers,[233] and depart. Those that have paines in their head or are ill come to the Priest, and lean down their head (Men and Women), on which he layes his book, and reads some piece of the Gospell; they present aspers for that. All being done, there is brought to the Church doore a charger of boyld wheat, cover’d over with crosses made of blancht almonds and raisins; everyone that will takes one of it, but is obliged to say a Pater Noster and Ave for the souls of the dead there buried. Masse is said in the same manner.

_Nov. 8th, 1674._ I was at the consecration of the new patriarch Dionysius, Archbishop of Larissa (or Metropolite).[234] Parthenius had brought out Methodius, and disoblig’d the greatest part of the Greek Metropolitans; they joyned against him, bring him out, and get him banish’t and sent to the Pasha of Cyprus. Mathias, with all the Metropolites and thre ex-patriarchs, were in the sacristia; it being ended, out comes the ex-patriarchs with their pastoral staffs in their hands. They are prettily coloured, like your gaudy tobacco-pipes with globular joynts, the crosse or handle at top, two serpents’ heads, yellow like gold. First was Παίσιος, second Διονύσιος, third our Μεθόδιος; and took their seats on the left of the quire (as you enter) just over against the Patriarch’s seat, which is like a chair with 4 steps up to it, a tilt like a flat pulpit over it, supported with a back behind, and two little posts before. They sat in their order, Παίσιος uppermost, next the Sacristia, and then followed all the Metropolites, and took their places on the patriarchs’ side from his seat towards the door in order. Then in a Pulpit high on the wall of the ex-patriarch’s side an officer of the Church (I suppose their λογοθέτης)[235] read a long declaration against Parthenius to justify their proceedings, wherein he made him the veryest Rogue in the world, calling him διάβολος κακοῦργος, τῶν δαιμόνων δούλος, etc., and at the end he pronounced him ἀφωριομἐνος, ἀνάθεμα τρισκαταραμὲνος, at which the ex-patriarchs and all the Metropolites, wagging their heads, cryed out aloud ἀνὰθεμὰ τον, many of the latter thrice repeating of it with vehemency. The French Embassador, and we Franks and many Greeks could not but smile. My Dragoman (a Greek) told me that if this one be turned out, and Parthenius restored, the other faction will anathematise him as much, and they served Methodius just soe. Then Παίσιος read a formall instrument, wherein he personally agreed to the censure; the like did the other two _ex parte_, and all the Metropolites, all ending with ἀνὰθεμὰ τον. Then they proceeded to another part of their service, in which the new patriarch (another Διονύσιος) had a short part, which he said in sight of all at the door within the sacristia, where he was all the time. After it (half way in the choir, just against the Patriarch’s seat) another officer of the Church (which is the μεγάλη ἐκκλησία, a grand chiesa), I suppose him the μέγας ῥήτωρ, mounted on a _scabellum_,[236] 1½ foot high, made a very handsome speech in his commendation, pronounct it very plain and gracefully. He insisted upon a parallel between their hopes now and their former calamyties, though touch’t but lightly upon Parthenius, I suppose for fear of his returne. He complimented the Metropolites and expatr. (ex-patriarchs) with the presage of future happiness, and their good choyce he commended, etc. The new Patriarch all the while lookt humbly down to the ground. After it, he returned a short and modest answer. Next came up toward the Sacristia (above the Orator a great deal) the Bishop of Heraclea, with a pastorall staff, and, holding it in his hand, made another pretty compliment, partly to the New Patriarch, partly (turning about) to the company, and then, going up to him, presented it to him, and kist his hand. Then he on his left hand, and another on his right, lead him along to his seat. In the midway, the ex-Patriarchs, rising from their seats, met him and kist him (_alla graeca, del un ed altro omero_[237]), then return’d to their seats; he goes on to his. Then come all the Metropolites, pass in order, and kiss his hand; returning to their seats immediately, they passe on towards high masse. The Gospels are bound very rich in Embroidery gold and silver, and have the crosse on the side, which, as it was brought back from the pulpit (in which it was read), the patr., ex-patr., and the French Embassad. kist. The host, before it is consecrated, is brought through the body of the Church, at which all the Patr., expat., Papa., etc., uncover their heads (and come downe), which at other times is cover’d with a black knit kind of Monmouth with eares, and a kind of course listany hood over it, which they put of and on upon many occasions. Before consecration and elevation, all adore to the ground, the patriarch, expat., etc. Masse being fully ended, a Metropolite went up and preach’t 1st a very short prayer, then name his text Mat. 5-8, καθάρτατος, then saluted the Patr., expat., Metropolit., and the whole auditory, return’d to his text again, where the greatest part was reckoning up various opinions. He quoted Ignatius, etc., etc., and coming to speak of Parthenius, calling him bad enough, [amo]ngst the rest comparing him to Lucifer and the bad angels; he mistook, and said Παίσιος (who was there present, and hang’d down his head). Then we many cry’d out, _Parthenius, Parthenius_, at which he making a stand, said Παρθένιος λὲγω, and with much adoe went on. He ended his sermon with a short prayer. The greater part of his sermon was much about Parthenius’s abusing the Church. At the door of the Church lay many thousands of candles, which were given by Greekes and others. First, before the New Patr. came from the Sacristia to his seat, every one lighted his candle, which made a brave sight from end to end of the church. Just as the New Patriarch took his seat, all cryed out (again and again repeating) ἄξιος, ἄξιος, ἄξιος.

After the Sermon was done, the Patriarch took down a small crosse (guilt with gold) that hang’d behind, and, holding it, he blest people (as he did once or twice in the office before with his hand, they all bowing at the same time). Then came out the _pane Benedetto_, and was carried to him. All the people came (thronging), kist his hand, and took some bread. The _Aqua benedetta_ was not brought forth, as I saw. The French Ambassador invited me to dinner with him, as likewise to the Patriarch’s House, but I excused myself, etc.

_Nov. 21._ we went (my Ld., etc.) to the Islands. We did not touch at any till we came to Principe.

_Dec. 23_, I was much indisposed; the 26th I fell ill of a continued feaver, which held me 17 dayes. I lost above 30 oz. of blood, reduc’t me so low that (it being a very cold season) after my feaver left me I had much adoe to retain heat in my limbs; my right thigh was perfectly numb from my knee to my hip, but friction, and bathing, and flannel on my own head set me right. Dr. Alexander Maurocordato came (by D.’s kindness); he advised me, 1st, to eat flesh and goe colder in my very feaver. I a little inclined to his advice, but one poringer of strong broth increast it strangely, and I got a cold that I could not quit in 4 days. 2dly, he advis’d bleeding in the _salvatella_[238] (I starv’d my feaver out, eating nothing for 5 or 6 dayes, but dinner and supper, one little porringer of Eng. Gruell). 3dly, when I was out of my feaver, which he cal’d a miracle, he advis’d me to beer, forbad me all wine upon pain of relaps. I drank beer at dinner, found my stomach windy; at 6 o’clock I drank again with a tost, but it gave me a most intolerable fit of griping in my stomach, which, with vomiting, I got away in 3 houres. I recovered so well as to go to Chappell.

_Feb. 7th, 1667_, came a young priest—he wrote down his name himself, D. Hilarione Bubuli—to me from padre Jeremiah, to know if any letters were for Venice from my Ld., me, etc.; amongst other discourse he made a great discovery to me. He was a Basilian (a Greek), but in orders (by Rome) a Venetian, born and bred under the Greek Arch Bp. there. He was not inform’d well by Padre Jeremiah (who is a Greek of another stamp), and, taking me for a Romanist, told me there were many Metropolites now Romans in their hearts, and that some money would do anything amongst them; they question’d not but shortly to make Metropolites enough of their own way. He said this Patriarch was a lay man, cropt hair bare, but by money and friends he was made a deacon one day, a priest the next; a Bp. and metropolite of Larissa the third. The design was this: they underhand by mediation of the K. of France and his Embass. here, the Emperour and his resident at Adrianople, the Bailo of Venice, first calumniate the Present Patriarch, and are now plotting his removal. Next day they have here (now obscurely) the Metropolite of Paros and Naxia, who they designe shortly for Metropolite of Ephesus, a true man in his heart to them; next to make him Patriarch. The businesse is committed to the Italian Archbp. now at the new church (St. Francesco): he told me the Jesuits and the Capuchins know of it, and he knew I would be secret, too; he said Padre Jeremiah was ignorant of it wholly, though he knew him wel affected. I mentioned Panagiotes at Court; he said he was not acquainted with it, nor must be, but he had a very great kindnesse for this Metropolite, and he himself has copied out all their letters of late correspondency, and he will be ready to make him Patriarch they question not; his name was D. Hilarione Bubuli, as you may see his own hand on the first whole leaf of this book. He said the Greek and Latin Church differ in 5 things; 1st, the Holy Ghost; 2nd, The leaven’d bread in the Sacrament; 3d, Purgatory; 4, The Pope’s supremacy; 5, The forme of Baptisme. He said they had all their services in Greek, but Romanized.

[Dr. Covel’s Diary is here very obscure, and evidently intended for notes, which he himself only could understand.]

_Copy of the Kaimacham’s to our King at my lord’s audience._

_Directed thus_:

To the glorious amongst the princes and lords of the Nation of
the Messiah, Ld. of Honour, Charles the 2d, King of England,
whose end be Happy.

To the Glorious amongst the Princes and great Lds. of Jesus,
the supreme judge of the Nation of the Messiah, and governour
of all the Nazareen affaires, Lord of honour, greatnesse, and
respect, who is solicitous of honour, Charles the 2d, King
of England, whose end God conclude with all happinesse and
grandeur.

We signify unto you the purest sincere friendship of my most
potent, great, and Majestick master, the Imperiall Lord of
the pure Ottoman faith, which is our duty to doe (according
to the office we hold in the high port) with all diligence
and respect, because of the sincere peace that is between the
two kingdomes, being desir’d friendly and with honour, we
signify and sincerely relate how that the choice amongst the
nobles of the people of the Messiah, Sr. Dan. Harvey (whose
end be happy), your Ambassador sent to reside at the high
port, being arriv’d at the Imperiall City frequented by all
princes and great lords, we receiv’d by his hands your most
courteous letter, and, according to custome, he came to the
Imperiall Camp to have his audience; and, after the Imperiall
manner, having been honour’d and received, he presented at the
Imperiall throne your letter, and the translation of it, the
sence whereof was well comprehended by our high Emperour, and
the presents well accepted by his Imperiall Majesty, who has
sent by his Imperiall letter an answer, hoping that the antient
sincere friendship shall be alwayes continued on our part.
My most honour’d friend then departed to renew the Imperiall
capitulations; but the most honour’d and happy great Vizier
being come to the Imperiall stirrop about the affaires of the
camp, it was defer’d until his arrival. Then, if it please God,
the happy and supreme vizier arriving, be assured he will not
fail to renew them. Hoping from your friendship a continuation
of the good correspondency and augmentation of the confederacy
day by day, I remain with the desires of the same.

Dated in the garrison’d City of Salonica.

_July 30th._ Γεράσιμος μητροπολίτης Τουρνόβου for 20 purses of money bought the patriarch’s place. Dionysius, Drista, etc., fled to the French Embassadores.

_The G. Signor’s letter after my Lord’s Audience._

_Directed thus_:

The Imperiall letter to the Glorious and great Prince of the
Nation of Jesus, Ruler of Nazarene people, our friend Charles
the 2d, whose end be happy.

To the glorious amongst the great Princes of Jesus, and
reverenc’t amongst the high potentates of the people of the
Messiah, sole director of the great affaires of the Nazarene
nation, Lord of the limits of respect and honour, of greatnesse
and of fame, Charles the 2d, King of England, Scotland, France,
and Ireland, our friend, whose end we wish may be happy.

Our sublime, high, and Imperiall signet arriving, you will
understand how that the most respected amongst the nobles of
the peoples of the Messiah, your Ambassador Sir Dan. Harvey,
whose end be fortunate, did arrive with your letters at our
happy port, and, according to the antient custome, our most
honourable Viziers did bring him before our noble Throne.
Being come unto us, he did consigne your Royal letter, which
was received with all respect and honour, translated, and
presented at our noble Throne; the tenour whereof was observed
and pleasing to us. We received also your presents with
satisfaction, and his requests and demands, whilst they are
conforme unto our noble lawes, and correspond to the friendship
between us, shall be consider’d, and for the time to come, you
not permitting anything in the prejudice of the former peace on
the part of our Imperiall majesty, there shall not be suffer’d
any thing in prejudice of the same sworne league, which shall
be undoubtedly alwayes preserv’d, and to conclude we wish you
all health.

* * * * *

The Turkes at Biram, and at all victoryes and births of the princes, make great mirth. It happen’d the Sultana was deliver’d of a second son this last Ramas, Decemb. 1673. The mirth was put of till the Biram, and then it was doubled; all were mad for 3 nights and three dayes, every shop open and drest up with laurell flowers, etc., many candle machines with pretty figures, puppet playes, dancing, etc.; the Janisary’s chambers was the finest sight. Almost in every shop was 1, 2, or more of these old mysticall figures of health. Whether it is of any meaning among them, or only taken up by chance, I could not be informed. In many of them was a sphere of 2 or three circles; if it signify anything of antient superstition, it must be endlesse or everlasting health.

1674.

_Jan. 6th._ Usually about 12 tide, beastly boisterous weather; few vessels at sea. 20th, we were kindly entertained at the Dervises; they play’d to us; the old supravisor beat the Tambur (the antient Tympanum); their tones were very passionate; the rest devoutly attentive. Many of them have a great 6 or 8 square Agat (with a hole in the middle) at their girdle. He (whome I ask’t about it) told me that stone foretold the sicknesse of their friends by growing pale on the edges, and their death by growing pale towards the hole in the middle; he said it sweats against poison, etc. I remember two Kalenderis aboard the Viner had each such a one; they had the caps of a wandring Dervise, but in all things else like the habit of the Kalenderi, in Mr. Ricaut, he makes them Santons, but in good earnest they are meer Tomes of Bedlam. One had a horne tyed about his shoulders (like a wild goates, but longer); he blew it like our sow gelders, high to low. He had a great hand jar, a terrible crab-tree truncheon, a leather kind of petticoat about his middle, naked above and beneath. It was then in May or June. He had a course Arnout Jamurluck.[239] He drank wine (like a fish water) which we gave him to blow his horne.

_Mart. 26, ’74._ Our King’s letter for the G. S. directed to the most High and Mighty Emperour Sultan Mahomet Ilam, chief Lord and Commander of the Mussulman Kingdome, sole and supreme monarch of the Eastern Empire.

To the Vizier, thus directed to the high and excellent Lord the Vizier Arem.

VOYAGE TO SMYRNA WITH SIR DANIEL HARVEY’S BODY, WHO DIED AUG. 28TH, 1673.

_Apr. 10, 1674._ At 8 at night we weigh’d (being upon the Dogger), and next day 3½ in afternoon we came to Anchor at the Asia side over against the little conduit within shot of that most innermost castle. We went on shoar and dispatcht our business with the Aga there. My Ld. had sent each of them a vest of cloth; we had our audience without the castle, in a house on purpose, by the draw bridge. Our Jew Druggerman, 10 or 12 dayes before, had shew’d some strangers up and down without the Castle, and at last, venturing to peep in, was catch’t and soundly drubb’d. Notwithstanding this, I went round about the outside and past it.

Several guns on the ground play up and down the Hellespont; on that side are 14 port holes, where lye great guns chamber’d to shoot stone shot, very big, near 2 foot diameter, all fixt and immovable, and therefore to be charged only without. They will fling a shot crosse the Hellespont with ease. In the night they have lights on either side, and watch if any ship steals down; just as they eclips those lights, they can see them and so fire upon them. Bellonius makes it but ¼ mile over; it is near a mile at least. I was not on the other side Castle, but I counted just 23 gun holes and thre sally ports between them; it seem’d a farre bigger castle than Abidos above said.

12. By reason of our present, with leave, we weigh’d at 10 o’clock, and within lesse then an houre we passt the other outward castles, but at too great a distance to say any more then that they are fairer and greater, and built according to modern formes. At night we reacht the N. end of Mitilene about 8 o’clock.

14. At 4½ in the morning within sight of the Centurion and Smyrna Castle. At 10 we anchor’d, and went on board. Capt. Wild thence to the Advice frigot (then there in port), thence to Smyrna.

_26th._ Put my dear Lord Harvey’s body on board the _Centurion_.[240] The great Cabin was hang’d and the floor cover’d with mourning; round about were fasten’d scutchions; the Steerage was hang’d likewise. My Lord’s body was taken of the Dogger into the Centurion’s long boat, there cover’d with a rich velvet Pal, bordered with white Sarsenet and satin. At the Head of the Corps was fixt a Hatchment, my Lord’s armes, in a square frame standing on one of the corners. At the head of the boat was his six trumpeters and his drummer. The Advise’s long boat tow’d it forward, and in it was his 6 Trumpeters likewise, and his drum, all sounding a dead march, went slowly forward in a round; the Consul’s (Mr. Ricaut’s) boat followed; after that many of the festoons in other boates. At its reception into the Centurion there was 3 voleyes of small shot and 30 Guns fired. The Advice fired 28; all the General ships and others in port fired, some 12, some 14, some 16 guns. Worthy Capt. Hill, who brought him out, fired every minute all the while we were going on the Dogger. The Body was put down into the hold, and a Cenotaph stood in the great cabbin, cover’d with the pall. The great Scutcheon displayed at the head six great tapers burning by in six great silver candlesticks. I gave away about 40 dwt. weights among the officers of the Centur., and sent a cask of 19 Meters of wine among the Seamen. We din’d aboard, treated civilly. The Consul brought flasques of Smyrna wine; Mr. Temple brought 20 flasques, and several fresh provisions. At 6 at night we all returned to Smyrna.

22. Parted from Mr. Temple’s seate at 21st, midnight, or towards one o’clock this morn. Got on board the Mary and Martha by 6. Out of the sandhead, lay becalmed all that day and night over against the w. end of long Island.

_29th, Wednesday._ Ashoar at Tenedos; gave the Aga of the Castle 1 oak case.