Chapter VII: Part II: Dr. Covel’s Diary (1)

DR. COVEL’S DIARY.

CAP. 2.—OUR LEAVING THE DOWNS, AND PASSAGE THROUGH THE CHANNEL TO SEA.

_Sept. 21._ In the morning we had a fresh gale at N.N.E., and it so continued between N. and E. a fair wind for us. About half-an-hour after eleven we set sail out of the Downes, being seven general ships, for the Levant; Captain Partridge in the Turkey Merchant, for Scanderoon.

Capt. Joh. Hill, in the London Merchant, } for Smyrna and
Capt. Pain, in the Speedwell, } Constantinople.

Capt. Dier Roles, in the Mary and Martha,}
Capt. Kerington, in the Levant Merchant, } for Smyrna.
Capt. Stoey, in the Pearl, }

Capt. Bromwell, in the Tho. and Frances, } for Smyrna and Scanderoon.

Our convoy were, Capt. Robinson, in the Greenwich,[180] as Admiral (who was to leave us at the next end of Candia, and go on to Scanderoon with the Turkey Merchant), and Capt. Wild, in the Assurance, as Vice-Admiral, who was to go with all the rest of us as far as Smyrna, with _Virginia men_, and some _coasters_ and _streightsmen_.[181] We made up in all about 100 sail going out of the Channel. I took my passage upon the London Merchant, with that very able and long-experienced Seaman, a most carefull and understanding commander, Capt. John Hill, whose honest, sober, and discreet management of all his affaires I can never sufficiently commend, as I must never forget his singular respect and kindnesse to myself.

CAP. 3.—OUR PASSAGE FROM THE LAND’S END TO THE STREIGHTSMOUTH.

_Saturday, Sept. 24._ About ½ an hour past two, afternoon, we weigh’d anchor, and stood of with an easy sail. Next morning, by eight o’clock, we were clear of _the Land’s End_, leaving it N. 6 W. about nine leagues, and we told 75 sail in company.

_Sept. 26._ The wind came up at South. It blew hard, and brought much rain. We made several tacks, and our _Freshmen_ passengers were all in a miserable, squeamish, and puking condition. I had held up perfectly well till that morning, when I began (as well as the rest) to find some odde wamblings in my stomack. Wherefore, counting it very healthfull, at first coming to sea, to evacuate what humours might overflow, I went and sat down in the Captaine’s Round-house[182] on purpose to provide that designe; for the higher any one sit within the ship, the motion of it affects him the more, and cause his giddinesse and _mawkishnesse_ to be the greater. After I had sat there till I was sufficiently squeamish, I went down to the Cook and got at least thre pints of warme small beer into my belly, and then returned up to the Round-house again, where the reeling of the Ship had its desired effect. I then went down and took a second dose of warme beer, and so came up to the Round-house again; and after somewhat a longer pause then before, I fell to my former exercise. This I repeated several times, till at last, when I cam down to the _wast_[183] of the ship, and took a turn or two there, I found my stomack begin to settle. I immediately drank a spoonful of _Purle[184] royall_ (as they call it), that is, _sack and wormwood_, and a little while after I took as much more. Thus for a while supping not above one spoonfull at a time (sometimes of old Hock, sometimes of sack, with wormwood), I afterwards continued walking gently and santering up and down the Ship, till by noon I could have eaten and drunk as well as any one. But I dined onely with a little fresh broth, and as much _Cremor tartari_ in it as made it palatable; and with a cautious and moderate diet, I was very well in lesse than 24 houres, and I thank God I never was in the least sea-sick after in any weather whatever.

_Sept. 29._ The Admiral called all the Turkish commanders on board. He told them that the Dutch and we had chased six Algier men of War on shoar at _Cape Spartel_ (which is the most northern _Cape_ of Africk, just at the _Streight’s_ mouth) not far from _Tangier_, and that we had sunk, and fired, and destroy’d them all, and released many English and Dutch prisoners. He had received the news by some Dutch Merchant ship, which that day past by us; for all ships, if friends, when they meet upon the sea, _share_ up to one another, and sometimes lay by their sails, or send of their boats, mutually to hear and relate what newes they have.

_Saturday, October 1st._ The Admiral and Vice-Admiral, and several Commanders, came on board us, and dined with us; and on the 3rd we all dined on board _the Turkey Merchant_. When we thus treat one another, if the weather be fair and will permit it, we seldome fail of some merry fellows in every _ship’s crew_, who will entertain us with several diversions, as divers sorts of odde Sports and Gambols; sometimes with their homely drolls and _Farses_, which in their corrupt language they nickname Interlutes; sometimes they dance about the mainmast instead of a may-pole, and they have variety of _forecastle songs_, ridiculous enough.

_Oct. 5._ The wind blew hard all night, and with the labouring of the Ship the table and chaires in the great Cabin brok loose from the cords with which they were _lash’t_, and hurt our surgeon and some of the gentlemen that were up there.

_Oct. 7._ At 6 o’clock at night we saw to S.E. 25 sail going southward, and we saw them again, next morning, about 6 o’clock. We took them for _Newfoundland_ men going for Lisbon and the Streights.

_Oct. 8._ About 10 o’clock _the Burlinges_ appear’d S. from us (which are rocks lying of from the nethermost Cape of the last stretch before you go into _Lisbon_). We were in 39° 55´ of latitude, and observ’d a current on those coasts setting Southwards. That night we lay by. Next morning we reckon’d 26 sail between us and the Rock of Lisbon. They were Flemings, and we supposed them to be the same which we had seen the day before standing to the Southwards.

_Oct. 9._ Sunday, about 2 afternoon, some Hollanders came into our Company. It blew a violent _gust of_ wind; we lay by with our head to the westward all night till next morning.

_Oct. 11._ At 4 afternoon the ships from _Cadiz_ or _Cales_ went in. We saw there in the Harbour a great ship at Anchor, with the English Flag at the main top mast head, which we concluded to be Sir Thos. Allen.[185]

_Oct. 12._ At noon we were in 18 fathom water northwards of from _Tangier_. The Admiral’s boat went ashoar to carry letters and newes, but stay’d not long, so that in 18 dayes we went from Plymouth Sound to the Streight’s mouth.

CAPT. 4.—FROM THE STREIGHT’S MOUTH TO TUNIS.

* * * * *

The seamen have a custome to demand passage-money of every one that never past the streights before. Those that refuse to pay, they seise them and duck them down from _main yard_ end into the Sea. There were several that chose rather to be plunged than to part with their money; for many that could swim would in calm weather, for a smal reward, leap from _the main yard_ and into the Sea, but they alwayes took care to fall streight up (end wayes) upon their feet, with their legs close, into the Sea; for to fall otherwise so high on the water (especially upon the belly) would bruise or spoil a man.

Our seamen told us that they had the very same custome whenever they past between the _Burlenges_ and the main land of _Portugal_, in their voyages to _Lisbon_; and a French sailor who was on board us told us of a mad ceremonious fashion they had of dousing every freshwaterman (with a pail of sea-water), which they nicknamed his Baptism, if he never before had past between _Les Scenes_ and the firme land at Bretaigne.

Having run a convenient while on the Barbary coast, we shar’d of toward _Gibraltar_, and Oct. 12, at 4 o’clock, we were within lesse than a league of it, having it N. b. W. We saw two Flag Ships in the Bay. The mountain that overlooks the Town of old was called _Calpe_. It seem’d, indeed, very high—much higher than _Abila_, especially when we were near it.[186] The side to the south shows reddish, and hollow’d in, as if it had been battered down or mouldred away. The top is little and flat, and this, perhaps, might make some of the Antients to compare it to half of a broken pitcher inverted, or turn’d with the bottom upwards. It shew’d very steep towards the E., but in all its shapes as we past bye I could by no means fancy either it or Abila in the least.

At six o’clock we met with two of our men of war going out of the Streights. About 12 o’clock that night, or something after, _The Pearl_ fell foul upon our Ship, and rent of _the Gallery_ on _the Larboard side_. Some of the passengers (who lay in the G. Cabin) were up, and one of them had just been in that very gallery, but feeling it somewhat cold, he did not stay, but stept into the G. cabin, and in that very moment this damage happened. The crash of the gallery alarmed us all, but we soon recovered ourselves when we understood the whole matter. However, we had all, indeed (especially that Gentleman) a great deliverance, for had the wind or waves become so high as to have rowl’d _the Pearl_ upon us with greater violence, we might have (one or both) gone to the bottome. S. D. G.

_Oct. 13._ About 11 o’clock the whole fleet was becalm’d on a sodain under _C. Malaga_; yet, by 6 that evening, we had a stiff gale for half-an-hour. At 8 we came to anchor before _Malaga_, in 14 fathom water. Next morning, about ten, we went on shore and hosted with Signor Carlos, an Irishman.

The first thing we went to see was the _Major Domo_, or great Church. It is, to the best of my remembrance, in a manner, round, _Scalop’t_, as it were, on the sides into 6 or 7 hollow moldings, like vast great _niches_; and in every one was an Altar for private Masse.[187] The Cupola is hang’d upon rows of pillars, set in a round likwise, so as we may walk conveniently between them and the Entrance into those round Isles or _niches_. We were there in the time of high masse, yet, so long as we were bare-headed, and behaved ourselves gravely and civilly, we might walk up and down and se every thing without the least molestation. One of our company (a young man who had had the misfortune of too precise an Education), seing we design’d to go into the _Domo_, came to me and my brethren (the other two Chaplaines going for Smyrna and Aleppo), and askt us whether we were not afraid, and touch’t in conscience, to go into an _Idol Temple_, as he cal’d it. I told him I was of St. Paul’s mind, _To me an Idol is nothing_. I could myself freely go into it, if it was an _Idol Temple_, for God, the searcher of hearts, knowes that I do not do it to joyn in their way of worship, but onely to se it and be the better able to discourse of it as an eye witnesse, and confute what was really unlawfull in it. But I bad him have a care; if he had any scruple, I advised him to go home, which he did. I mention this passage here, because this young man that was so extremely scrupulous, fell into great debaucheries afterwards at Smyrna, and at last turn’d Turk. Let the greatest Saint _that thinketh he standeth, take heed lest he fall_.

We thence went to see Sta. Victoria, which is a convent of _Augustines_. In their Church are (ἀναθήματα) _offerings_ hang’d up without number, in memory of deliverances and miracles wrought by that Saint, which they there call _virgo miraculosissima_. Amongst the rest is a small boat of reeds, cover’d over with a kind _of Tarpaulin_, about 4 or 5 yards long, in which 7 Christians (after their prayers, I suppose, to this Saint) escaped from captivity at Algiers to this port. There hangs up the effigies of a child that was raised from the dead, and a serpent of great length (I guest it 4 or 5 yards), which had been destroy’d by Christians in Africa, and sent hither. There is within (as in most convents) a fair square court, cloyster’d above and beneath; in the upper cloyster are the Brethren’s cells, in the lower the walls are hang’d with pictures, most of them representing miracles wrought by their saints. One was how a dish of fry’d fish, by a crosse of the Saint’s finger (I think it was the founder of their Order), revived, and leapt down out of the dish as quick as ever they were. Another was how he supported a stone of 100 tons weight (that was falling upon him and his attendants) only with his stick, or, rather, with a bullrush in his hand. My brother Huntingdon[188] and I convers’t with the good Fathers that went about with us in the Latine, and as any very remarkable thing occurr’d we interpreted the story in English to our company. Now it happen’d that one _Paulo_, a Greek (who had been in England some time to learn our language, in order to be a _Turgeman_[189] to our nation at Smyrna), being by, and hearing us recount these miracles, very indiscreetly broke out into a loud laughter. The Fathers were very highly and very justly incensed at it, and we had much adoe to pacify them, and excuse the folly of the fact. It hath been a warning to me to make better choyce of my company in such places ever since, least I might suffer for the men’s rudeness and childish indiscretion.

Therefore that evening, with more wary friends, we went and saw (_San Domingo_) the Convent of the Dominicians. It was a very fine and sweet place, built much after the fashion of the former, but much more beautifull and stately. In the middle of the court was a little garden, enclosed with a hedge of oranges and lemons, like our codling[190] hedges; in the quarters stood small orange and lemon trees, and pots of several very pleasant greens. Santering up and down, we walk’t into the Upper Cloyster; and seeing a door and entry open into a fair room, where somebody was talking, one of our company, who spoke Spanish, ventur’d boldly in, but sodainly made a profer to retire, as being mistaken. It happen’d to be a very Reverend Father’s lodging, who presently stept out to us and accepted our apologyes as being strangers, and not knowing our way out. He earnestly invited us in and gave us a noble treat of sweetmeats and fruits, and several sorts of wine. He afterwards caryed us down into a large garden, and bad us gather what oranges and lemons, and what fruits and flowers we pleased, and at last brought us out to the gate, where, with all decent respect, and many thanks for his extraordinary courtesy and civility, we took our leave. He had in his chamber very many excellent pictures; one was of Christ taken from the Crosse, which he valued at 3,000 dollars; besides the admirable painting, I took especiall notice of the unusuall manner of the head, the face being roundish, the hair being flaxen, or inclined to yellow, and the beard short and curl’d round about the chin.

Next morning, Oct. 15, an ingenious Gaille man[191] (one Mr. Jolly) and I, by chance were standing by one of the gates of the City towards the Sea, and talking of the strength of the Town. I happen’d to say that gate seem’d so decay’d and crazy, as surely it could not well be moved without falling to pieces. There stood a man just by us in mean habit (but dressed in all things like a Spaniard) who, in as good English as we could speak, said, _Yes, Sir, I assure you it is shut every night and opened every morning, as you may guesse by the Hinges_; which were then almost worn away. We were not a little surprised, and we made this reflection in ourselves upon it, that Strangers ought to be very carefull what they talk in their own language in other Countryes before them whome they know not, for they may be better understood then they think for, and easily entrapt or involved in difficultyes beyond what they intended or imagin’d. However, it happen’d otherwise with us now, for, talking farther with him, he proved an high man who was maryed and lived in Town; he was extreamly civil to us, and offer’d to show us what we had not yet seen of the City. We accepted the favour, and with him we went to several Nunneryes, where, instead of dull, mopish, vapour’d women, or grave precise matrons, as we expected, we found as pleasant, bright, and airy ladyes as ever I met with all elsewhere in all my life. Their particular chat is not worth the recounting, but it was extreamely gentile, merry, and diverting. We past for Captaines (I suppose our Interpreter had named us so), and they beg’d of us every where for some cheese, or butter, or Holland, or thin stuffs. We always stick to one answer, assuring them that we had no provisions to spare, for we put into that port on purpose to buy some; we were laden only with Tin and Lead for Turkey, and some cloth which was not our own. They offer’d us many fine works and several sorts of sweetmeats to sale; we bought some which were very admirably well done. My Lord Baltimore[192] had then a daughter in one of these Nunneryes which we saw (I think it was at _San Bernado_); she was but a girl, and placed there onely for education, and undoubtedly (setting religion aside) it is a way of breeding infinitely beyond all our English Schools. A very lovely sister there beg’d a silver pick-tooth and case of me, and return’d me for it a pretty little picture of the V. M., curiously wrought, all with coloured straw. Platonic love is here very much esteem’d and practised, and really I have that charity and Justice to believe it may be done with perfect innocence. In one place we found a jolly Friar talking at the grate with the Sisters, who, with great civility, retired so soon as we came in. Once, as we were sitting by them, in came a surly, stately Don, very richly attired; and after a profound reverence towards the Ladys, and a kind of a scornfull nod to us, he lean’d his head to the wall by the side of the grate, and with his armes and leggs acrosse, and his eyes fixt upon one of them (which was very ingenious, but not handsome), he stood thare in such a fixed posture as, had it not been sometimes for a sneaking silly sigh (true or feign’d, I know not), you would have thought he rather saw Medusa’s head then his dear Dulcinea’s face. He spoil’d all our mirth; all was hush’d, and after a decent pause we left him to his _Devotions_. He askt our Interpreter whether we were Catholics; he answered Yes, and all past very well.

One of our English Merchants there (of good repute, though I shall not vouch the truth of his story), hearing me recount this adventure, told us that about 7 or 8 years before, soon after his first coming to Malaga, he had got acquainted with a young Sister, and often waited upon her, as well to divert himself as to perfect his Spanish Tounge; for there at the grate you have all the newes that is stirring, and the best and most refined language. He by degrees was wheedled into such fondnesse, as the presents which he had at several times made her came in a short time to about 40 lb. He found (being but a young beginner) that his trade would not bear so expensive a diversion, where upon his visits were more seldome, and his presents very few and meane, and at last he came no more at her at all, nor answer’d one line, though he received many most passionate ones from her, and there had past many such (as the manner is) betwixt them before. Not long after, he was one evening set upon by a Rogue (which she had hired), and was desperately wounded, and narrowly escaped with his life. The _Rufian_ soon after confest it, being himself mortally wounded and taken in such another enterprise. And here I cannot omit another story of our worthy Captain. About 8 or 10 yeares since, he had great concernes with a wealthy Spaniard, a merchant of this City, and very much kindnesse past between them, insomuch as they call’d brothers, and Captain Hill lay on shoar at his house and was freely treated there, sometimes for many dayes together. It happen’d that another Spaniard (a neighbour who often came thither, and was of both their familiar acquaintance), being a great _Bigot_, and very zealous for the Roman way of worship, often made attempts upon our Captain to make him a Prosolyte; and there being once some great Festivall and a solemne procession to be made, he desired our Friend to be there, adding that he doubted not in the least that he would then yield and be convinced of all his errors. The Captain, having appointed either some business or some other recreation, civilly excused himself, and thank’t him for his kindnesse and good wishes. It so fell out in the procession that, as they were carrying the Image of the V. M. on men’s shoulders in Triumph (as their manner is on such occasions), either by the stumbling of the bearers or some other miscarriage, over she tumbled, and fell down directly on her face upon the stones. At night all three met to sup at the merchant’s house, and immediately this zealot accosted the captain: “O, Sir, had you been here to-day at the procession to have seen the many miracles which were wrought, I am sure you could no longer have resisted the truth; such a blind man received his sight, and such a deaf woman recover’d her hearing, and a poor neighbour of ours, that hath gon with crutches to my knowledge these many yeares, threw them away, and leap’t and walk’t as well as I can do.” Our Captaine, who had heard of the Ladye’s misfortune, reply’d: “Surely, Sir, it is a wonder indeed that the B. V. cured the Deaf and the Lame and the Blind; I heard she fell down and broke her own Nose. I pray, can you tell whether she cured that or no?” The Bigot, at this gibe, fell into such a rage, as nothing at first would serve turne but the poor Heretique must go into the Inquisition; and neither former friendship nor Interest nor persuasion could prevayl of a good while to pacyfy him. The good Merchant himself (the common friend), being not a little offended, though it was spoken onely in merriment, and under (_the Rose_, as we say) the freedome and protection of his own house. So nice a thing it is in some countrys to jest or meddle with the publick Religion.

There is a Nunnery here (as I remember, it is call’d San Joseph) where young infants are received and brought up: Poor people that are not well able to provide for their children, or others who have Bastards, secretly bring them in the night, and, pulling a bell to give notice, they lay them in a moving kind of _hollow Roller_ placed in the wall on purpose, and so turn them in, themselves who bring them being unseen and undiscovered. If the child be baptised, the name is noted or written upon the breast, and oftentimes mention is made of some peculiar mark made by nature or Art somewhere on the body, by which they may be known again; and there is also a register kept in the convent of all that are so brought in. In my opinion it is a very great peice of charity to allow such places, though at first thought they may indeed seem a kind of encouragement for lew’d persons more securely to commit wickednesse; yet, undoubtedly, they save the lives of many poor innocent Babes. I have met with those who have ventur’d to say, that if a poor Votaresse there, or any where else in Town, should by chance steal a taste of forbidden pleasure, the Fruits of her frailty and the honour of the Society are this way secured; but I always look’t upon this as a satyrical conjecture rather then a known truth.

The Spaniard’s common diet in Malaga, such as it is, is extraordinarily cheap. We took my landlord’s dinner the first day, which was a large _ensalada_ or sallet, a pottage of onyons, gourds, and herbs; a little fry’d fish, dryed and cold, with oyl; _mala infana_ (which they call here _Melongenas_), a sort of gourd, pear-fashioned, some as big as my fist (I think Gerard calls them in English _mad-apples_[193]), split and fil’d with a little pepper, oil, and salt, and then broil’d or stew’d: these, thus drest, they count rich food, and they slice them also into their pottage. Of these and such stuff eight of us eat what we could, and paid but a _Real_ (about 6_d._) for all, besides bread and wine; but at night, for 4 fowles and a neck of mutton stew’d, six of us paid a dollar and half apiece, besides wine, which is near 50 Shillings of our money; and next day, at dinner, for one joynt of mutton and a little forequarter of Lamb and two foules, 12 of us paid a dollar a piece, besides wine, which is about 3 lb. English.

We staid one night with mine Host on shoar, and we had a proud fellow which entertain’d us a while with a song or two to a _Guitarra_. He first lay’d by his old threadbare cloak with great deliberation and wonderfull gravity; then, with his dagger behind and his hat cock’t, his eyes staring, his browes bent, and his _Mostachos_ new brush’t, he yell’d and acted with that strange state and fiercenesse, as if he had been swaggering at some desperate criminals and threatening to hang them; but, with a _Real_ or two we came off well enough. After supper and a little chat we thought of our lodgings. All that lay on twills and bedsteads were sorely bitten with little bugs, which left hard knobs and pimples wherever they seised. I, with one or two more, had the fortune to putt our twills for coolnesse into the middle of the floor, which (as all above stairs as well as those below are) was laid with brick, and we escaped all these pestilent companions. These insects, so well known in all hot countryes (but to us never seen before), are here called _chismes_ and _chinches_, and in Italian _cimici_, from the Latin _cimex_, in French _punaises_; they are shaped much like a spider, but far lesse, with six legges and a bottled[194] breech, the back being often reddish. They are truly cal’d by _Pliny_[195] most nasty animals, for besides their venomous bite they have (especially if they are bruised) a most intolerable filthy smel. One of our comrades, catching one in the night as it was preying upon him, and thinking it had been a flea (after a slovingly custome which he had got), bit _it with his teeth, thinking so to kill it_; but the abominable stink set him on vomiting in such a manner as he verily thought he had been poyson’d; which make me amazed how they came to be prescribed inwardly by the antients as a medicine against feavers,[196] unlesse it was that (after the Italian proverbe, _Un Diavolo scaccia il altro_) _one devil drives out another_; but, perhaps, being drunk in wine, they may go down whole, and not prove so nauseous. We started a controversy, whether these _chinches_ and fleas, and gnats (and flyes) have any smeling or no, and we concluded clearly in the affirmative, not only because these never stir out of their holes and lurking-places till the steam and perspiration of your bodyes invite them, but because all strong smels drive them away, as the savour of wormwood, Lavender, Rue, Hemp, Hops, Russia Leather, and the like, and the smoke of these and such other strong smelling herbs doth the same. And we were told here that many use the _Squilla_ or _Sea Onyon_, cut into pieces, and thrust into the joynts and crevices of their bedsteads, or strew’d on their mats; as likewise they presse out the juyce of them, and use it in like manner. It is manifest that the fierce _effluviums_ of these things very grievously affect these vermin, and seeing they all have eyes, why may they not as well have organs of smelling, or something _Analogous_ to it?

_Malaga_ is prettily well fortifyed for fear of surprise from the Moors; it hath two Castles—one upon the side of a hill, and the other at the bottom of it on the East side of the Town; and there is a communication between them both, made by two walls reaching from one to the other; but there appears a higher place, which, if it was possest and planted with canon, could command them both. There is also an Arsenal, but what store of armes and warlike provisions were in either this or them I know not, for we were told we should not be permitted to se them, and therefore never attempted it. It is a part where most vessels going to or coming from the _Levant_ put in. There is a great trade driven there; it is famous for Almonds, Raisins, Oile, great olives, and rich Sack. The grapes which make the Raisin are very fat and fleshy, affording nothing near so much juyce as those that make the Sack, and therefore they are the sooner dry’d by the Sun. We tasted their old wines in many places, and to my palate they seem’d all much more fulsome and sweet than our old _Malagas_ in England, which have had the advantage of the Sea to refine and harden them. We brought good store of the best we could find on board, with plenty of all sorts of fruits and fresh provisions.

That night, Saturday, Oct. 15, about 11 o’clock, we weigh’d Anchor, and Capt. Pool, in another man of warre, came out of port with us. I think he was in the _Guernsey_ frigot. Next day the Admiral, Vice-Admiral, and several Commanders came on board and din’d with us.

_Oct. 27_ we dined on board _the Martin_, and our Admiral gave us new orders in case we should be engaged to fight with any Enemies, and that evening we discouered thre ships with white ensigns, which proved French, of _Monsieur Martells_ Squadron, lying about _Tunis_ and _Tripoly_. The French Admiral himself was in one.

_Oct. 29_, Saturday, we lay on the South end of Sardinia, with Epulo[197] N.E. b. N., 10 or 12 miles distant from us. The Admiral that Evening call’d a Council of all our Commanders, and told them he had orders from the Duke of York to go to _Tunis_ and stay some time there; That he had a letter for the King of _Tunis_ from our King about continuing our league and peace with him, For at that time we had peace with _Tunis_, but war with _Argieres_; the _French_ on the contrary had peace with _Argieres_ and war with _Tunis_, and we had a current report that Sir Tho. Allen and _Monsieur Martel_, the French Admiral, had agreed to let English ships of Merchandize go freely into _Tunis_, and French Merchant Ships into _Argieres_, provided they caryed no provisions, or ammunition, or stores for war. We had met thre French men of war, and we understood two more lay near _Tunis_ to block up that Port. From all this arose a grand dispute amongst the commanders, whether it was safe for us to go into _Tunis_ or not. Whether we should hazard such a prize as all our Merchant ships were. It was urged that there might be more French ships there than we knew of, and it was uncertain what they might do with us. That the _Tunesas_ might break with us upon such an opportunity as this, and seize our ships and Merchandize. Some dowbted that the Admiral had no such order, and it was thought when we dined on board _the Martin_ (who was bound for _Tunis_) that the Captain of her contracted with our Admiral to se him safe in, and so all was mere pretence and fiction. Some question’d whether the Admiral could command us to attend him; others, whether by their _Charter party_ with the Turkey company they were not obliged to ply their voyage and accompany the convoy no farther than it consisted with their safety. It was asked who could justify the agreement between _Sir Tho. Allen_ and _Monsieur Martel_? and many such _quæres_ and difficulties were banded to and fro; but at last the Admiral positively resolved to stand by his order, and our Capt. and all the Commanders of our Turkey ships agreed to go in with him except Capt. Partridge, who was as stifly set against it; and, returning on board his own ship, he divulged the whole businesse amongst his passengers, adding all the aggravations of our danger, and suggesting all the arguments of Fear he could to them. Presently came many on board us sorely frighted, and zealously opposed our going in, insomuch as the two new Treasurers of the Turkey Company (then going out, one to _Smyrna_, and the other to _Aleppo_) threatened to enter into a protestation with Capt. Partridge against the Admiral’s proceedings, and courted us to joyn with them. We civilly denyed it, telling them that we trusted in the known prudence and careful conduct of our own Captain, and should cheerfully go along with him wherever he caryed us. However, all this while these disputes were kept, as much as possible, from the common seamen, for fear there should have arose a Faction among them likewise; yet secretly all commanders were thinking of some preparation against the worst, and that night we shaped our course for _Tunis_, steering S.E. ½ S. Next morning, Oct. 30, about nine o’clock, we spied the two _Frenchmen_ of war, just upon the Coast of _Africk_, as we thought, setting out of _Porto Farina_; they stood towards us a little, then went westerly, and never came near us by 7 or 8 leagues. We bore away directly for _Tunis_, and upon this all the rest of our ships in company went along with us; and that afternoon at 2 o’clock we got under _Cape Carthage_, where all the Commanders went on board the Admiral, and soon were agreed and well pleased; and at 3 we came all to anchor before _Tunis_ castle, in 4 and 5 fathom water, the Cape lying N.N.E., the Castle W. b. S.

CAPT. 5.—OUR STAY AT TUNIS AND CARTHAGE.

That night we went on shoar for water, but were not then permitted to have any; yet we might freely ramble upon the shoare. The Castle seems very strong to the Sea. We were not suffer’d to view the other side to the Land. By the Castle they have several pools or ponds of standing water, one of which (as we were told) can, at pleasure, have communication with the sea. These are full of fish. We bought good store of Mullet, and there we had one true _Bream_, large and very fat. We had them very cheap, as we thought, but our Interpreter counted them dear. There were several sorts of fruit brought to us—excellent melons, Pomegranates, Limes, and _salating_ herbes, with which we stock’t ourselves, and so came again on board. Next morning (Oct. 31) we went on shoar at the watering-place, where were come down many country people with Eggs, Hens, Sheep, Goats, Bullocks, milk, Pompions, Fish, Pigeons, citrons, Dates, Oranges, Lemons, and Limes (which are a sort of _hedge_ or _crab_ Lemmons), with whose juice our Seamen make their punch. There was also store of bread to be bought. They make some of it of pure good wheat, most of it of _millet_, some of what we call Turkish wheat (maize), much of barley flour, and _lighten_ it with leaven of salt and sower’d honey and oil, which give it a brackish taste, yet it is not unpleasant whilst it is new. They bake it flat, with a rising in the middle like a coppled[198] cake. Every ship stored themselves from hence with what they wanted of sea provisions. Our Capt. caried a net on shoar, which by all our Seamen was called a _Sain_ (I suppose from σαγλιόν, _Sagena_, Math. xiii, 47). It was a sort of drag net. Having obtained leave, we turned it twice or thrice in the sea, but we catch’t few fish, and those very small ones. They wer _Mullet_, _Barboni_, and our common _plaice_, and a little sort of what we call _Maids_. I hang’d a little _Barboni_ up in my cabin, and it gave forth a little thin light, like that of rotten wood, for many nights together; and by degrees, as it grew dryer, it at last vanish’t. I did not then take notice of the change of colour in them (whilst they are dying) which _Pliny_[199] mentions, and for admiring of which _Seneca_[200] rebukes and flouts at some Romish gluttons.

Some of our Captaines and Passengers with me hired a couple of their Janisaryes, or rather souldjers, to be our Guides, and away we went together to see the Ruines of _Carthage_, which reach quite from the watering-place near the Castle up beyond _Cape Carthage_, agreable to what we read in Polybius,[201] near upon ten miles as we guest, but the guides said it was fifteen, which may seem probable enough, for _Strabo_[202] makes the old City only to have been in compasse thre hundred and sixty _stadia_, which is five and fourty miles, at eight _stadia_ to a mile; yet Livy[203] makes it not much above half as much. And the ground lay in hills and dales, so as we could by no means make any tolerable judgement. Of from the shore, for a mile together, the Land was then sown with Barley, but all that ground is so full of small rubbish as a man can hardly set his foot upon cleer Earth; _Jam seges est ubi magna stetit Carthago_. We went first by the sea side, where they make Salt by letting in the Sea Water in Summer into broad shallow flats, and, after the Sun hath exhaled the moisture, the Salt remains in great panes behind. We saw great quantities of it here and there heapt up, which they told us was for the _Grand Signor_. Whether they have the art to refine it, or whether they send this coarse (_bay_) salt (as we call it) to him, I did not think to enquire. However, I find in _Pliny_[204] that, of old, the Africans made great quantities of salt upon this coast, about _Utica_, now call’d _Biserta_, which is not above thirty miles from hence to the west, just on the other side the River _Bograda_. These men may as well now be said to make _Hills of salt_ as those were then, and I believe it is altogether as _dry and hard_ as that was. Perhaps some of that which we cal’d common salt at Constantinople came from hence. We were informed by our Guides, who spoke broken _Italian_ and _lingua Franca_ (which is bastard Spanish, mixt with words of most trading nations), that from _Cape Carthage_ to the Castle was once _Terra firma_, full of rubbish as the rest now is, but by an Earthquake it sunk down. It is very likely, or perhaps the foundations of the city were laid in the Sea, for we saw from the shore many broken pieces of walls and ruines of buildings under water; and our Seamen, in Haling the _sain_, found the bottome very foul ground a good way from the Shore into the Sea. Along by the sea side remain at land many, many Vaults, some cover’d in part, some all over, some quite open. In summer, people come down from several places, and keep shop here. The hardnesse of the mortar in these and other remains is very remarkable; a stone will very hardly break it, yet it is not fine, but the sand, or red earth, intermixt, is very grosse, and full of small pebbles. One Vault, a little distant from the shore, seem’d to go far under the ground. We could see in about a furlong, but did not go in far because we wanted lights. It was crosse-arched to a row of pillars in the middle. I fancy’d it might have been part of the stables underground for Elephants, which Strabo[205] saies went in the neck, or _Isthmus_, from Sea to Sea, sixty _stadia_, or about seven miles. We found, now, great quantities of bones of Foules and other little creatures in it, and it smelt strong, so as we believed it now to be a receptacle or den for foxes or wolves, or such beasts of prey.

We went thence up from the sea towards the middle of the Ruines. All the way there remaines pieces of walls and buildings, but not one pillar or stone of any note. There lye heaps of rubbish so thick that it is impossible to plough in that part, unlesse they removed it, which would be at most as tedious a piece of work as to rebuild it. There was amongst the rubbish much Alabaster, Marble of all sorts (white, Black, Red, streaked red and white, white and black, and the like), a sort of red stone, porish, but much harder then brick. We observed not one Flint, no sort of Free-stone, very little brick, onely in one side going up to _Cape Carthage_ all was brick, and nothing else, but not one whole one nor half one was to be found. The earth at a distance shews red with the crumbled and scatter’d pieces. There was also much white brick, extream hard. In one place we found small pieces of Porphyry, and some thin flat bits (like broken pavements) of blackish marble spotted with green, like a sort of what we call _serpentine stone_. I am more particular in this point, that we may from hence have some guesse at the Beauty and Majesty of this City when it was standing in its Glory, for if our houses in London shew so well, being all built with plain brick, what would they have done had they been all of various Marble?

* * * * *

At last we came up to a place which our Guides and our Seaman call’d _Queen Dido’s Tomb_. We all concluded at first that these were the Elephant Stables so much talkt of by old Authors, but at last I chang’d my opinion, and do now verily think that they were onely cisternes for keeping of water, as Tunis[206] is also now supply’d by such cisternes. We were told that farther up towards _Cape Carthage_ there are more considerable mines, and finer things to be seen; but there was a _Mosque_ there, and several houses about it, where we were informed many _Dervises_ or holy men lived, and that it was dangerous going amongst them. Leo Africanus makes them very great, but we were not near enough to judge anything of their Grandeur. However, I and another happened to straggle a little that way from our company, and one of our guides threw down his mantle and his staf, and would not stir till we came back; for he said his head would go for it if we should commit any error, or come by any harme through his neglect, so he hallow’d us backward, and we obey’d. It seems sometimes there are streight Arabs (_i.e._, Arabs from the Straits) lye lurking about, not far off from the shore, who, if they can conveniently snap any stranger, they will spirit him away and sell him for a Slave; so that upon all accounts I think it was very well that our curiosity carried us no farther that way.

* * * * *

When we were come on board, we design’d next morning to go and see _Tunis_, but this unhappy accident disappointed us. Most of our _malcontents_, before mentioned, went thither in the morning when we went to Carthage. We had no Factory there, but onely an English Consul to do all our business, whose name then was Mr. Earlesman. They waited upon him and embroyl’d him with their story. Our Admiral had wrote to him the night before to invite him to dinner that day, but the letter chanced to pass through some of their hands, and came not to him till past ten o’clock, being then delivered by one of them. The Consul (whether upon this account, or whether he staid to entertain them, I know not) staid at home, and returned no answer to the Admiral, who staid dinner for him, and at last was disappointed in his design’d treat. About eight at night the Consul came to him to excuse himself, but the whole matter was so ill-resented by the Admiral, as he resolved to weigh Anchor that night. The Consul urged that the _Martin_ (the ship which the Admiral was so earnest to bring in there) was almost unladen (for all our ships’ crews helpt him with their long bootes), and would infallibly be ready to go with us by twelve the next day, being bound for Zant. But the Admirall thought himself too much neglected; first, because the Consul came not of his own accord to wait upon him; next, because he came not when kindly sent for; so, in a heat and a hurry, we were all forced to weigh Anchor that night about eleven o’clock. Several, perhaps, that staid at Tunis all night, were left behind. _Paulo_, the Greek, with whom we were embroyl’d at Malaga, was one, and one of the Admiral’s passengers was another, being an Armenian Bishop, who had studyed sometime in Italy, and now went home as a Roman _Emissary_ or _Seminary_. All our Ship’s company were, by good fortune, on board, and we came away together.

CAPT. 6TH.—OUR PASSAGE FROM TUNIS TO CERVI.

We had newes at _Tunis_ that twelve Algerine men of war were gon to the Eastward; some designing for the _Archipelago_, others for _Rhodes_, _Cyprus_, and those parts towards the end of the Mediterranean. This made our whole fleet keep company together, and for this reason the Consul was more earnest that the Admiral should take the _Martin_ away with him, but it was left behind. Notwithstanding this ruffle between the Admiral and Consul, when the Consul went of (which was about nine or ten at night) he was complimented with nine guns, being in that station the King’s representative.

_Nov. 7th._ At two o’clock the Admiral call’d all the commanders on board to a consult, and the next day we dined all on board the Assurance.

_Nov. 8th._ Tuesday, when we were past _Zant_ (having _C. Matapan_ to the E. about eight leagues, and _Sapienza_ about ten to the N.), about five after noon we saw a _spout_ to the Northward. We had most dismal turbulent weather for thre whole dayes and nights, and a constant rain, with most dreadful thunder and Lightning almost all the time. The dry weather which we had till now had so _parch’d_ the wast[207] of the ship and the upper timburs, and made all above so leaking, as I could not keep my cabin dry; one night I was soundly wet as I lay on my bed. I was informed that it was very usuall to have such tempestuous weather hereabouts at this time of the year; and our captain told us that in _Zant_ earthquakes are very frequent, that he hath known twelve in a week. That the people in summer almost all leave their houses and live abroad till winter. That on the west side, far from the Sea, is a mountain that spues forth a sort of _petroleum_, or Bituminous Lime, as black as soot, and it will grow hard and look like it, which was not unknown to Pliny.[208] This issues out on the _East side_ of the mountain, and flames alwayes arose plentifully when the _west_ wind blowes, and hath then a stronger smell then at other times.

_Wednesday, Nov. 9th._ The Sailors that had been on the watch told me that in the night, after the storme was over, they had seen two little _Lights_, one at the foremast top, the other hanging upon one of the _main stayes_. They call’d them _Corposans_; I suppose from _Corpo Santo_, as the _Italians_ name them, believing them to be the Ghosts of some saints who come to relieve them. But our men would hardly be persuaded but that they were not some _Hobgoblins_ or _Fairies_, or the inchanted Bodyes of witches, and we had many a fine story told to that purpose. The Heathens of old when they saw but one named it _Helena_,[209] when two, both, that is, _Castor_ and _Pollux_; why they were then made the Seamen’s Tutelar Gods or saints you may see at large in _Natalis Comes_,[210] and determine whether the antient or modern superstition is more justyfiable. Our seamen assur’d us that in many voyages to the _Indyes_ and elsewhere they have seen sometimes six or seven together (sometimes many more parted or splintr’d into small globulor sparks, like pills), and _hanging as it were_ on the _yards_ and sails, or upon the masts, but most commonly aloft, which makes me adde this one reason to what _Carles_[211] hath given us why so many sometimes appear together in our dayes, whereas not above thre at most (and that most rarely) are mentioned as ever seen together by the antients, viz.: as our Ships are bigger, and of more ballast and burthen, so their masts and yards and riggings are caryed much higher, and by consequence more of that unctious gleam, which after the dissolution of the clouds and ceasing of the Tempest remains dispersed in the Air, and affords _matter_ for these _Meteors_, is rather aloft than nearer to the Hull of the ship, and so is more plentifully met with all by the upper rigging and tackles, and cleaves to them. And asking farther about this point, they told me these _lights_ are oftner seen and more together upon a tall ship then upon a _pinnace_ or small vessel.[212] I was not a little displeased with our seamen who were on the watch that night, because they did not call me; whereupon the next night (Nov. 9) they did call me, for after very much Thunder and Lightning and tempestuous weather, about four o’clock appear’d two more, one towards the _main top_, which disappeared before I got out, the other was at the very top of the fore-mast. They told me it was beginning to fade. It seem’d a dim light, as of a flame, shining through a steam or smoak,[213] about the bignesse and shape of an ordinary egge, the top a little wavered, and growing fainter and lesser it soon went out. When I came back into the great _Cabin_, there appear’d a Circle about the candle which stood on the Table; I would call it rather a _Halo_, because it was very little coloured. The farther we were from it the plainer it appear’d and bigger (almost as broad as both my hands); as we came nearer to it it lessen’d proportionably, and just at it we could not perceive it, all which depended on the various refractions through the moist and mixt vapours which then fill’d the Air. One of our _Mates_ told me that once, as he sailed formerly in these _streights_, there appear’d a very bright Helena at the very _spindle_ of the _main top mast_, and one of their men went up and moved his hand round about, and neither saw nor felt anything, when they below saw it all the time. We sent up one to ours, but before he got at it it went out; perhaps his approaching might move and part the Air, and contribute something to its so soon vanishing. But if what our Mate told us be true, it requires more consideration than I thought fit to afford it at that time, unlesse I had seen the like.